MK4 #8951 Build

[lahrs37]

OK, so here goes! I received my kit from Stewart on Saturday morning. It was incredibly hot and humid, but I was completely stoked! We live in a neighborhood in Philly and the streets are really small, but the driver Don did an amazing job and was super nice. In hindsight I wish I had thought to have cash on hand to tip him.

I have a small 2 car garage to work with. One of the bays had a closet intruding into it, so I have had to get a bit crafty about space. So far all of the boxes are under the body buck and the frame is in the next bay. I marked and removed the aluminum. I didn't take pictures though so I am feeling a bit nervous about being able to put it back together later.

I have been told that getting shelves and taking all of the parts out will make it easier to build so I am looking into that. If anyone has done that, please chime in.

I am attending the build school this week, so hopefully I will pick up some good tricks there.

Last, but not least the plan:

It has IRS and I loaded up on the goodies during the half off sale. It started as a basic kit, but I basically added options until it was a complete kit.
I got an engine/trans combo from MPS auto salvage. They sent me the vin and I carfaxed it. It had 6 owners and over 200,000 miles so I was expecting issues, but when I stripped it down the bores were immaculate. Apparently all of the owners took really good care of it. My rebuild is basically the top end kit from LMR - so heads and a cam. That should get me to 300hp - which is more than enough for my purposes.

The car is being built to take cross country road trips and enjoy the twisties. I want all of my controls to be light and direct. I am going with power steering and power brakes. I want to do hydraulic assist brakes - but I need to gather more info - If anyone has experience with that, please let me know! lastly, I am going with a mid-shift T-5. I am picking up the conversion from Modern Driveline. That is it for now. I will add a bunch of pictures as soon as I figure out how. For all the folks who are also on the Facebook builder page - thanks for such a warm welcome!!

[David Hodgkins]

Congratulations on your new build!

I've upgraded your account for full access. If you have any questions about posting pics or modifying your build thread title as you go. see the stickied threads in the Welcome and Intro forum. I'm also available via PM.

STOKED for you!

:)

PS One thing I did (because I was tight on space too) is write all the parts that are IN the box ON the box. That way I didn't have to tear into the boxes repeatedly just looking for parts.

[lahrs37]

Thanks David! Also, that is a great idea! I probably will end up doing some kind of combination.

[wareaglescott]

Congrats! Enjoy the build.
I was nervous also about getting the panels back on. Really didn't turn out to be that difficult to figure out and I never even referenced the pictures I took. I think when it first showed up I was pretty overwhelmed with the quantity of parts and getting started. By the time you put the panels back on you are pretty familiar with everything and it is much more logical where they go back on.
For finding parts in boxes I just look through the pack list and find what number box the part is in and then go to that box. I stacked the boxes so I could see all the numbers written on them. I also highlight on the pack list when I use that part and that way it makes it easy to tell what is still in the box.

[lahrs37]

I am glad to hear that you didn't have to reference your pictures. So many people have done this successfully that I can't be impossible. That being said, it is overwhelming looking at all of these parts. It is definitely more than I anticipated - which is a little ridiculous considering I am building a whole car. Highlighting the parts once you use them is a great idea!

Pictures to come soon, I swear!


Congrats! Enjoy the build.
I was nervous also about getting the panels back on. Really didn't turn out to be that difficult to figure out and I never even referenced the pictures I took. I think when it first showed up I was pretty overwhelmed with the quantity of parts and getting started. By the time you put the panels back on you are pretty familiar with everything and it is much more logical where they go back on.
For finding parts in boxes I just look through the pack list and find what number box the part is in and then go to that box. I stacked the boxes so I could see all the numbers written on them. I also highlight on the pack list when I use that part and that way it makes it easy to tell what is still in the box.

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations On Starting This Great Adventure!

A two car garage is plenty big so don't fret.

My shop is even smaller so don't worry.

Have A Great Time At The Build School!

[lahrs37]

Thanks for the kind words! I am super excited to pick up some tips and tricks at the build school!


Congratulations On Starting This Great Adventure!

A two car garage is plenty big so don't fret.

My shop is even smaller so don't worry.

Have A Great Time At The Build School!

[740iLn]

Good luck with your build. I was just looking at build school classes yesterday. I'm hopeful that your experience at the build school will give you a "tips and tricks" well to draw from. I'd definitely need that before I could convince my wife about making the kit purchase.

[unrealmach1]

Hey great meeting you at the build school this weekend. I subscribed to your thread and am looking forward to keeping up with your build. Keep in touch and remember Woodward Dream Cruise 2017.

[Charles Markman]

Can't wait to see how your build progresses. Please send me your invoice when you get a chance?

Charles

[740iLn]

Hey great meeting you at the build school this weekend. I subscribed to your thread and am looking forward to keeping up with your build. Keep in touch and remember Woodward Dream Cruise 2017.

How was the build school?? I watched the FFR DVD and it had the build school episode of Two Guys Garage on it. Very cool.

[lahrs37]

Hey folks,

So I got back from the build school Monday night. It was such a fun time! Usually my wife and friends start to glaze over after I have been talking about cars for more than 30 seconds. This was three full days of hanging with like-minded people and learning tons of little tips and tricks. For anyone considered this build, I would recommend going to the build school BEFORE you submit your order. You will have a much clearer idea of what you actually want and need in your build. The instructors are great about telling you what is a worthwhile option and what isn't. In hindsight I definitely wouldn't have ordered the catalytic converters to manage sound. Instead I would have gone with the gas-n side pipes. Charles also made a very convincing argument that you don't need a mod-shift set up. That is probably the only piece of good advice I won't be following.

I have also decided on manual brakes and no a/c to keep things simple. I also plan to spend a year/season driving in gelcoat to shake out all the bugs before doing paint. That is my update for now. My mother-in-law just had surgery so for the next week or so I probably won't be able to get in the garage. Hopefully in that time I can get some pictures up!

[lahrs37]

Just a quick question: Does anyone have any opinions on Forte's hydraulic clutch solution vs. Modern Driveline? I got Modern Driveline's S10 tail shaft for the T5 and that looked pretty slick, though I haven't installed it yet.

[wallace18]

Just a quick question: Does anyone have any opinions on Forte's hydraulic clutch solution vs. Modern Driveline? I got Modern Driveline's S10 tail shaft for the T5 and that looked pretty slick, though I haven't installed it yet.

I used Forte's hyd clutch and was very pleased with it on my Type65.

[lahrs37]

Thanks for the input.


I used Forte's hyd clutch and was very pleased with it on my Type65.

[lahrs37]

OK, so I had a little bit of time to sneak away to the garage and I finished my inventory! Only a few missing pieces, and really only minor things. The biggest thing I realized is that I have the 13" rear brakes that come with the IRS set up, but the front brakes are only 11". I know that you generally want your from brakes to be larger than your rears. Well, you definitely want your front brakes to lock before your rears. I guess I could potentially fix this when I am setting my brake bias. Any thoughts?

[lahrs37]

Hey great meeting you at the build school this weekend. I subscribed to your thread and am looking forward to keeping up with your build. Keep in touch and remember Woodward Dream Cruise 2017.

Hey, it was great meeting you too! My goal is to be driving the roadster there! :) Do you think you will be on the road by then too?

[GoDadGo]

Glad You Had A Great Time!

[Jazzman]

OK, so I had a little bit of time to sneak away to the garage and I finished my inventory! Only a few missing pieces, and really only minor things. The biggest thing I realized is that I have the 13" rear brakes that come with the IRS set up, but the front brakes are only 11". I know that you generally want your from brakes to be larger than your rears. Well, you definitely want your front brakes to lock before your rears. I guess I could potentially fix this when I am setting my brake bias. Any thoughts?

I would definitely talk to FFR tech support about that. You certainly want your brakes to work with each other. You do generally want more stopping power in the front. Never hurts to double check, and they are really helpful at FFR.

[lahrs37]

I would definitely talk to FFR tech support about that. You certainly want your brakes to work with each other. You do generally want more stopping power in the front. Never hurts to double check, and they are really helpful at FFR.

Good call. I sent a message to Courtnie along with the missing parts from my inventory. The front calipers are still 2 pistons, while the rears are single piston so I have a feeling there is till more braking force in the front, but it is good to double check. Worst comes to worst I looked up info about upgrading to the 13" Cobra brakes for the front.

[Jazzman]

Depending upon your budget, the Wilwood brake upgrade is really great. Pricey, but great.

[lahrs37]

Depending upon your budget, the Wilwood brake upgrade is really great. Pricey, but great.

I looked into that, but that is a little too rich for my blood, and probably an overkill for what I am after. Courtnie told me that all of their cars have larger rear brake rotors so not to worry. She is probably right, but I basically split the difference and ordered up an SVE 13" brake kit that is basically the Mustanf Cobra brakes that were recommended at the build school. I also returned the parking brake on the suggestion of the build school and ordered a used Mustang one on E-bay for super cheap. Also on the advice of the build school, I am swapping out the catalytic converters for the long tube BBK headers. Apparently the cats operate at a really high temperature and managing that extra heat is a pain. I only wanted them to bring the decibels down. But after hearing the Gas-n side pipes in person on the BBK headers I think that will work perfectly. Lastly, I have decided I am going to run my aluminum panels naked with the exception of heat shielding and sound proofing. Aluminum just is not that susceptible to corrosion and all the folks who have gone this way aren't having issues. Besides I like the look.

[lahrs37]

So apparently it easier for me to throw a video up than it is to get some pictures together. Here is a time lapse of my time in the garage last night. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UhzOpD4gLU

[lahrs37]

Photo test:
https://goo.gl/photos/YnvuXqAZEv5vjSRr8

ADMIN EDIT
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[lahrs37]

Delivery day album:

https://goo.gl/photos/RAXgFkhcdHbBbRAw8

[lahrs37]

Here is a quick video clip of my garage as of today: https://youtu.be/vMB0QauPL0M

[lahrs37]

OK, I have run into my first snag. I installed the F panels and then went to install the lower A-arms. The passenger side went in fine with 1 washer on each side. The problem came on the driver side. On one side I could barely get it in even without a washer. I stopped for the night instead of forcing something. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[M3ichael]

Not sure if this will help but I was reading somewhere on another post that the bolts shipped were not equal length.

[lahrs37]

Huh, interesting. After a bit of googling I found this: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10573-Front-Lower-Control-Arms
Hopefully that makes it easier for anyone following this thread in the future.


Not sure if this will help but I was reading somewhere on another post that the bolts shipped were not equal length.

[740iLn]

So apparently it easier for me to throw a video up than it is to get some pictures together. Here is a time lapse of my time in the garage last night. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UhzOpD4gLU

Laurence, very cool time lapse video. What was your actual time working on the engine block in the video? Also, it looked like it was pretty dark in there. I have some shop lights I can send ya if you like!! :D

[lahrs37]

I am not sure how long it was on real life - maybe 2 1/2 hours? Thanks for the light offer, but I just finished lighting up my garage. The next video should look a lot better!


Laurence, very cool time lapse video. What was your actual time working on the engine block in the video? Also, it looked like it was pretty dark in there. I have some shop lights I can send ya if you like!! :D

[lahrs37]

OK, I ran into my next snag. The ball joint went into one of the Upper Control Arms easily enough, but on the second one it locked up about half way down. I wailed on it for a bit but to no avail. A quick Google search seems to indicate Inmay have to buy new ones. Should FFR send me a new one of it is defective? I don't want to big them all of the time, but this could get pricey if a bunch of stuff doesn't work. I am pretty darn early in my build!

[lahrs37]

More time lapse! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y11U6B2_tCg

[edwardb]

OK, I ran into my next snag. The ball joint went into one of the Upper Control Arms easily enough, but on the second one it locked up about half way down. I wailed on it for a bit but to no avail. A quick Google search seems to indicate Inmay have to buy new ones. Should FFR send me a new one of it is defective? I don't want to big them all of the time, but this could get pricey if a bunch of stuff doesn't work. I am pretty darn early in my build!

The Mevotech ball joints Factory Five supplies seem to be highly variable. Some go in fine, others lock up as you found. If you call them, likely they will send replacements. No guarantee they'll be any different, but probably the place to start. a) Don't ever hesitate to call them with issues or problems like this. You're not bugging them. It's called customer service, and they're good at it. b) I wouldn't use this as an indication of a bunch of stuff that doesn't work. Just happens to be a pretty common problem with IMO a somewhat cheap/low quality part.

Some have reported the Mevotech's will go in if the threads are aggressively cleaned with a wire brush. Unfortunately, I was never able to get them to work on my current build. Tried some Moog K772's, and they didn't work well either. Ended up with Howe Racing 22320S ball joints which went in perfectly. Super high quality, but not cheap.

[lahrs37]

Thanks for the insight! I will follow your advice and start by reaching out to FFR. I will say that I have been extremely impressed by how responsive and cool they have been so far. It seems almost out of place in this day and age.


The Mevotech ball joints Factory Five supplies seem to be highly variable. Some go in fine, others lock up as you found. If you call them, likely they will send replacements. No guarantee they'll be any different, but probably the place to start. a) Don't ever hesitate to call them with issues or problems like this. You're not bugging them. It's called customer service, and they're good at it. b) I wouldn't use this as an indication of a bunch of stuff that doesn't work. Just happens to be a pretty common problem with IMO a somewhat cheap/low quality part.

Some have reported the Mevotech's will go in if the threads are aggressively cleaned with a wire brush. Unfortunately, I was never able to get them to work on my current build. Tried some Moog K772's, and they didn't work well either. Ended up with Howe Racing 22320S ball joints which went in perfectly. Super high quality, but not cheap.

[lahrs37]

So FFR was super cool. I asked them if I could have a credit for the amount of a Moog K772 and they said yes. So I ordered one through Amazon, got it yesterday and installed it with no problem at all.

I then went to install my first coilover only to find that the spacers for the lower mount are too big - or more likely the ears on the frame are a little too close. So, that was a perfect excuse to order an angle grinder! lol I have a feeling I will be using that a lot in this build.

Lastly, does anyone know how I can upload pictures directly from my iPhone?

[lahrs37]

Quick update: I ground the spacers down with the angle grinder. I had to do it for the lower mounts for both sides. So the coilovera are in! I went to mount the spindle and quickly realized I am missing a castle nut. I am not entirely sure if that is my own fault or not. Either way it was as good a time as any to stop for the night. The plan for today is to head to the hardware store, grab a castle nut, and finish mounting the front suspension already!

[lahrs37]

So, my front suspension is mounted. I ended up picking up a 13" Cobra brake kit from LMR. I mounted the caliper and noticed that there doesn't appear to be slide pins which is a bit strange. I feel like I am probably not understanding something.

Also I had a little get together and one of our friends was inspired by my wife's riveting and wanted to try her hand at it. So my wife and her riveted the drivers side footbox wall panel on. :)

Lastly, I have been working a bit more on my 302. And when I say that, what I really mean is that I have been backtracking and redoing stuff that I didn't do a good job of in the first place. I will spare you the details because honestly it is just embarrassing. I got excited to be finished and didn't take my time like I should have.

So in the immediate future I am going to start in on the IRS, maybe do the drivers side footbox and firewall if the ladies feel like riveting, and maybe start thinking about runnin brake and fuel lines. At the school the lines were already run which made everything go very smoothly. I imagine it will be easier when there is less stuff to get in the way.

[AC Bill]

Also I had a little get together and one of our friends was inspired by my wife's riveting and wanted to try her hand at it. So my wife and her riveted the drivers side footbox wall panel on. :).

The inner one hopefully? The outer is handy to leave off until the very end, for easy access to pedals, electrical, when carpeting, etc..

[lahrs37]

The inner one hopefully? The outer is handy to leave off until the very end, for easy access to pedals, electrical, when carpeting, etc..

Haha, yes the inner one.

[lahrs37]

I finally got around to uploading some time lapse videos. Here is number 3: https://youtu.be/V3HZqevtqL8 If you look on my channel I am up to numbe 6.

[carlewms]

I imagine it will be easier when there is less stuff to get in the way.

When I ran my brake lines the only panels I had installed where the F-panels and the DS foot box front panel ...

Here are some lessons I learned from the installation:

1. I purchased some additional short pieces of brake line to avoid making my own flaring ... I ended up with one and it was the one that leaked when I bled the brakes;
2. Purchase a set of the brake line wrenches;
3. Make sure you do not route them under the 4" tubes exposing them to be crushed if you hit a speed bump too hard;
4. I found the routing of the rear line from the master down to the 4" tube a little tricky because you want to keep it away from the headers ... really the heat from the headers. I ended up routing it down the front right corner of the inside of the insulated foot box;
5. With the wilwood pedal box I installed Mike Forte's excellent hydraulic clutch kit so I have 3 separate reservoirs for the fluid ... I insulated the lines from the reservoirs to the front foot box wall for added heat protection; and,
6. If your planning on using a mat like insulation put it on the inside of the panels before installing taking care to leave room for the rivets ... it is a very real PIA trying to do it after they are mounted on the frame.

Carl

[lahrs37]

Those are some great tips, thanks Carl! I also ordered the hydraulic clutch from Forte.



When I ran my brake lines the only panels I had installed where the F-panels and the DS foot box front panel ...

Here are some lessons I learned from the installation:

1. I purchased some additional short pieces of brake line to avoid making my own flaring ... I ended up with one and it was the one that leaked when I bled the brakes;
2. Purchase a set of the brake line wrenches;
3. Make sure you do not route them under the 4" tubes exposing them to be crushed if you hit a speed bump too hard;
4. I found the routing of the rear line from the master down to the 4" tube a little tricky because you want to keep it away from the headers ... really the heat from the headers. I ended up routing it down the front right corner of the inside of the insulated foot box;
5. With the wilwood pedal box I installed Mike Forte's excellent hydraulic clutch kit so I have 3 separate reservoirs for the fluid ... I insulated the lines from the reservoirs to the front foot box wall for added heat protection; and,
6. If your planning on using a mat like insulation put it on the inside of the panels before installing taking care to leave room for the rivets ... it is a very real PIA trying to do it after they are mounted on the frame.

Carl

[GoDadGo]

Hey Lahrs37,

I couldn't do a decent flair to save my life so I'd measure what I needed and hit the local parts store.
While it cost me a few extra dollars, it saved me tons of time and headaches.
They came out looking FANTASTIC so if this guy can do it then so can you!

Steve

[AC Bill]

Hey Lahrs37, I couldn't do a decent flair to save my life so I'd measure what I needed and hit the local parts store.
While it cost me a few extra dollars, it saved me tons of time and headaches.
They came out looking FANTASTIC so if this guy can do it then so can you! Steve

I too used pre-flared lines, for both brake and fuel. I bought the armored ones, for a little added insurance against a rock, or road debris hitting them.

Back in the day (2009), because FFR deleted all the lines, (even from their base kit), for all Canadian buyers, there was a Canadian Completion list available. That list showed all that was still required. The pre-flared lines were listed with the number, and length required to complete the roadster. Never had any problem, and I was very happy with the results.

[lahrs37]

Thanks guys on the suggestion to go with pre-flared lines. I just finished installing the soft brake lines so I thought I might begin to tackle the hard lines. My brother is coming into town this weekend and I was also thinking I might make use of that and pop in the engine and transmission. Can anyone think of a good reason to wait on that? It seems like it would be easier to have the engine in when figuring out how to route hard lines. Also, here is my latest timelapse: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEKEZjxXXgg

[lahrs37]

Where did you end up mounting the reservoir for Forte's hydraulic clutch?



5. With the wilwood pedal box I installed Mike Forte's excellent hydraulic clutch kit so I have 3 separate reservoirs for the fluid ... I insulated the lines from the reservoirs to the front foot box wall for added heat protection; and,

Carl

[carlewms]

I mounted it with the reservoirs for the two brake master cylinders.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4dd29b3127ccef5c4d475d6e300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140309000002443.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

From Right to Left: Clutch, Front, Rear

Carl

[AC Bill]

My brother is coming into town this weekend and I was also thinking I might make use of that and pop in the engine and transmission. Can anyone think of a good reason to wait on that?

If you haven't done any wiring yet, you may find that running and securing any chassis wiring harness's in the tranny tunnel area, will be much more difficult with the tranny and engine in place. You may need to drill and rivet, harness support clips, etc.. Likewise installing e-brake cables, and handle. Not impossible, just a little more difficult.

The hard lines themselves shouldn't be a problem with the engine/tranny in place, as they are normally run down the outside of the main frame tubes. There may be the odd tight spot where holding an electric drill, or perhaps a riveter in a certain position, may be an issue depending how you run your front brake, and clutch hard lines, in the engine compartment, and front footbox area.

[lahrs37]

Thanks for the input guys! While my brother was over we ended up doing the hard lines and laying out the wiring harness. I haven't secured the harness yet as I am not exactly sure how it will end up being routed. I feel like there is a slight chicken and egg problem - I want to put the engine in to route the wires right, but putting the engine in will make it hard to route the engine! lol
On another note I am struggling with my parking brake. I have the 2015 IRS rear brakes, but so snagged a handle from a '93 per the suggestion of the build school. The problem is that pulling the handle all the way up doesn't seem to fully engage the rear brakes. I thought maybe I needed to fill the regular brake lines first so I went ahead and did that. But I am still having the same problem. Any ideas?

[wareaglescott]

I have the 2015 IRS but used the stock handle so not sure if this is applicable. I found that the cable adjustment point between not fully engaging and fully engaging was very minimal. I was able to adjust the cable clevis to put enough extra pressure on the cable to get full engagement. Do you have any adjustability there that would allow you to pull the cable just a little bit more?

[lahrs37]

hmm, no there doesn't seem to be any adjustability. How did you route your cables?


I have the 2015 IRS but used the stock handle so not sure if this is applicable. I found that the cable adjustment point between not fully engaging and fully engaging was very minimal. I was able to adjust the cable clevis to put enough extra pressure on the cable to get full engagement. Do you have any adjustability there that would allow you to pull the cable just a little bit more?

[wareaglescott]

hmm, no there doesn't seem to be any adjustability. How did you route your cables?

I routed them over the frame instead of under it. EdwardB's build thread does a great job of documenting how he did it and I followed that. I recommend you check that out.

[AC Bill]

Not familiar with the 93 e-brake handle. Is that the type that has the self adjusting ratchet? Pages 16,17,18 of the following link make mention of a modification.
http://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-2300-K.pdf

Some calipers have a self-adjuster for the e-brake. Once you have pressure to the caliper, and you pump the brakes, and use the e-brake a few times, the self adjuster should set the pads so they will contact the rotor. That is allowing that the caliper piston was adjusted correctly when first installed. IE; so the pads are almost contacting the rotor, to begin with. The self adjuster won't adjust much at a time, so if the pad is set to far from the rotor, it may take a lot pulling on the e-brake handle, and pumping the brakes, to make up the slack.

[AC Bill]

There is also a modification, using a small bolt/screw rather than spot welding the pawl to the tooth. I believe this was documented quite well on the FFCars forum on one thread. Might be worth doing a search on it if your a forum member there

[lahrs37]

I routed them over the frame instead of under it. EdwardB's build thread does a great job of documenting how he did it and I followed that. I recommend you check that out.

Thanks for the insight, I will definitely take a gander at that!

[lahrs37]

There is also a modification, using a small bolt/screw rather than spot welding the pawl to the tooth. I believe this was documented quite well on the FFCars forum on one thread. Might be worth doing a search on it if your a forum member there

Huh, that is really interesting too. I am not sure if there is a self adjuster for the parking brakes for the 2015 IRS setup...I am going to do a bunch of research and based on what y'all have suggested then I will report back as to what I have figured out.

[lahrs37]

Oh, one other thing! My brake pedal arm is contacting the 3/4 tube when it is fully released - any idea as to how to fix that. At first I thought i might just put some padding in between the pedal arm and the tube - but I have also read that some people put spacers up at the master cylinders. Any thoughts on that? - Y'all are absolute lifesavers! I have no idea how I would get through this without your input!

[lahrs37]

I had some extra time this morning because of the SEPTA strike so I took a quick video! https://youtu.be/ZPrPSC5Hcjo

[edwardb]

Oh, one other thing! My brake pedal arm is contacting the 3/4 tube when it is fully released - any idea as to how to fix that. At first I thought i might just put some padding in between the pedal arm and the tube - but I have also read that some people put spacers up at the master cylinders. Any thoughts on that? - Y'all are absolute lifesavers! I have no idea how I would get through this without your input!

Adjust the clevis at the master cylinder pushrod so it stops before the arm hits the 3/4 inch tube. The master cylinder has a stop built into it. You want it always returning to that point. Not held away by the 3/4 inch tube, padding, etc.

[lahrs37]

Adjust the clevis at the master cylinder pushrod so it stops before the arm hits the 3/4 inch tube. The master cylinder has a stop built into it. You want it always returning to that point. Not held away by the 3/4 inch tube, padding, etc.

That makes a lot of sense. I will check again to see if I can make a further adjustment there. To be perfectly candid, I initially did not have the brake clevises close enough to the balancer and I think that was throwing things off. I then fought with it a bit and jacked up the threads of the master cylinder pushrods. It was one of those things where I should have walked away a lot sooner than I did! lol

[Straversi]

Nice,
I won't do a time lapse because it would show how much time I sit idle, trying to figure out what I'm doing.
-Steve

[lahrs37]

Nice,
I won't do a time lapse because it would show how much time I sit idle, trying to figure out what I'm doing.
-Steve

Ha! That is the beauty of time lapse - it makes you look like you are going way faster than you are. :) Just wait until I get to wiring...:p

[Kpt112]

Hey lahrs37,

I live in Bucks County and work in Philly. Please let me know if you need a hand anytime during your build. I had another forum member help me during my first start. Keep up the good work. My car is off to paint right now. I started in March 2015. PM me if you are interested in any help.

Thanks
Kevin

[lahrs37]

Thanks Kevin!
I will hit you up in the near future if for no other reason to talk shop and drink some beers. :)
-Laurence


Hey lahrs37,

I live in Bucks County and work in Philly. Please let me know if you need a hand anytime during your build. I had another forum member help me during my first start. Keep up the good work. My car is off to paint right now. I started in March 2015. PM me if you are interested in any help.

Thanks
Kevin

[lahrs37]

I had some unexpected free time today, so I popped the engine in. It was surprisingly easy and I did it myself in about an hour! I really want to post pictures from my phone, an Android, but cannot figure it out. After I entered my 30's I lost my ability to figure out computers.

[lahrs37]

I had some unexpected free time today, so I popped the engine in. It was surprisingly easy and I did it myself in about an hour! I really want to post pictures from my phone, an Android, but cannot figure it out. After I entered my 30's I lost my ability to figure out computers.

[lahrs37]

Quick video update: https://youtu.be/7_wJ3EEgPGk
As it turns out I did end up finding the hardware for the intake, but don't have the bolts for the starter.
Does anyone have a recommendation for how to connect the hard fuel lines to the fuel rail? It looks like I might get a first start by Christmas at this rate - which would be the best present ever!

[lahrs37]

Ok, I am being driven absolutely crazy trying to figure out how to connect the hard lines that come in the kit to the stock foxbody fuel rail. Is there a simple solution? Ideally one that doesn't involve AN fittings and multiple adapters?

[lahrs37]

OK, I settled on using 06AN lines for both. Breeze has adapters off the hard lines, and summit has Russell fittings that comes off the rail. So, no I just need to find the appropriate 06AN lengths and get 4 females fittings. Fun, fun.

[lahrs37]

With the engine in, I was starting to get excited about possibly having a first start and then Go-Kart by Christmas. I am starting to reevaluate that timeline a bit due to a few complications and a couple of set backs. The first is my ongoing fight with the fuel lines. An awesome mechanic friend of mine from my hometown is actually mailing me the proper tools to deal with the braided AN lines and the fittings. I am also waiting for lines that I have ordered to show up. I measured it out and it looks like the 25' I ordered should be more than enough.
The next complications is reassembling the engine. I am finding that I am really loathe to reuse old sensors, tubes, etc. However, this means that I actually have to identify them as they come up and then go and get them. This basically means almost constant trips to the parts store - which is an hour round trip and can really burn my groove after work.
Another setback is my brakes. I messed up the threads on one of my master cylinders and the fitting coming out of the fluid reservoir. It's not that big of a deal, but I basically have to redo the system and I haven't been particularly inspired to do that.
On a positive note, I have started to assemble the deep trunk mod. I cut out the bracing in the back. I know that might be controversial, but my goal with this car is to road trip around the country and I will need that space. I also doing the front mount battery mod. I went to install that, but apparently I need different tools to tap threads. lol back to the parts store.
Oh, and I snapped the head off of a valve cover bolt - tried for hours to extract it to no avail. I will have to learn how to tap a new one.

[lahrs37]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZbYMII0iBQ

[lahrs37]

Quick update on front mount battery and fuel lines: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLhvsuLbYrk

[lahrs37]

So here is some more stupidity and a list of things to do before the first start. I was attempting to install the ground wire from the engine block to the frame for the front mount battery and my tap just was not up to the task. Once I realized this I should have just stopped. I KNOW that nothing good would come from trying to force something and yet... Anyways now there is an extra hole and the ground is riveted onto the frame as opposed to be screwed on. I have a feeling that I will eventually get better tap and redo this. Yuck for hackery.
Anyways, here is what is left to do before firing the engine for the first time:
I need to get a spade connector for the battery positive cable to connect it to the solenoid - this does not come in the front mount battery kit.
I still need to replace one of the brake master cylinders, the fitting off the reservoir and I want to rerun the front brake line so it traces the X-member. This is not absolutely necessary for a first start but needs to be done so a first go-kart can follow a first start. (This might be more for me than anything else.)


Everything for the hydraulic clutch.
The heater core - the old tubes were junk so I waiting on a replacement.
Radiator/fan etc.
Accessories and drive belt kit. The kit I am getting from LMR is back ordered.
o2 sensor bungs still need to be welded onto the BBK headers.
Dash board and guages - my father in law might be doing a wooden dash...
Replacement oil pan - really everything from the engine appears to be junk except the block
The throttle body and the various hoses
Throttle cable
Engine oil, trans oil, diff oil
Gas!

[lahrs37]

So last night I started fiddling with my brakes again. I replaced the copper fitting from the reservoir that I had messed up earlier that was leaking, and a master cylinder that I had messed up the threads. With the help of the good folks of this community I determined that I needed to trim the push rods coming out of the master cylinders by about 1/2" to prevent the pedal from resting against the 3/4 tube in the foot well when the brake was not being depressed. I also rerouted the hard lines that connect the front brakes because of interference with the front mount battery. I now have the hard lines tracing the X member, which looks a lot better.
The next step is to reroute the brake hard line that was originally going through the foot box to the rear brakes. The line as I ran it initially goes right behind the throttle pedal, and I am just not that comfortable with it. I am going to reroute it to the outside of the foot box.
I am not going to go into the 2 copper fittings I broke, or how long it took me to realize I broke one...
I have a bunch of goodies on the way this week including my coolant crossover tube to run my heater core, replacement oil pan, all the engine sensors including a PCV valve, and an EGR delete spacer with hardware.
I am running a trick flow intake and I found an amazing youtube video of a guy explaining how to route the hoses on it compared to the old one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zuDtk19dw0&list=FL6N_5O9XOS0U751tGOH_rOQ&index=1
Seriously, this made my life soooo much easier considering I got my engine from a junk yard and not directly out of a car.

[wareaglescott]

Im loving reading your thread. I need you to get some pictures going though! haha
I ran my rear brake line down the inside corner of the footbox. Really cant even tell it is there but I would like to see some pictures of how you reroute it. That sounds like a good idea also.

[Kpt112]

Bummer on the fuel lines. I used the special service from Summit Racing to make custom AN lines for my fuel line setup (hard fuel line to the Regulator then to the carbruator). A bit more expensive but worth it considering some guys have burned their cars up with leaky fuel lines in the engine bay. Summit offer custom length sizes with whatevers fitting you want. They are professionally done and looks it as well.

Good Luck

[lahrs37]

Im loving reading your thread. I need you to get some pictures going though! haha
I ran my rear brake line down the inside corner of the footbox. Really cant even tell it is there but I would like to see some pictures of how you reroute it. That sounds like a good idea also.

I know I suck with pictures! Lol I keep trying, but all of my pictures are in the Google cloud and I don't use a traditional laptop. One of these days I will have to figure that out. In the meantime I will keep posting videos. 😋 And I will definitely have an update after I redo the brake line.

[lahrs37]

Bummer on the fuel lines. I used the special service from Summit Racing to make custom AN lines for my fuel line setup (hard rule line to the Regulator then to the carbruator). A bit more expensive but worth it considering some guys have burned their cars up with leaky fuel lines in the engine bay. Summit offer custom length sizes with whatevers fitting you want. They are professionally done and look it as well.

Good Luck

That is actually good to know! For what its worth I ended up solving my fuel line issues by just running 6AN braided lines for everything. My buddy who is a mechanic leant me some awesome tools that made attaching the AN fittings a breeze.
As far as the brake lines are concerned...Well the best I can say is that it is best done. And it will be right. Finally. Lol

[lahrs37]

I was just rereadingmy earlier posts and it is hilarious to think how nervous I was, and what has shifted from my original plans. I have bought a lot of stuff, I didn't even know about a year ago (Clecos!)
It's also fun to reflect on how much I have learned. Heck I had never used a rivet gun, or a sawzall, or an angle grinder. Crazy!
Sometimes I feel like I am speeding towards the end, and while that is awesome, sometimes I want to just try and savor this. It is so dang cool!
OK, enough sentimentality for one night. Back to the garage!

[lahrs37]

Here is what I am thinking about how to rerun the brake line: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6GfL06punk

[lahrs37]

Test: http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161210_215316_zpso6ihtwma.jpg

[lahrs37]

Test 2http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161210_215316_zpso6ihtwma.jpg

[lahrs37]

My new braided fuel lines touch the back of my alternator. I can't believe that is a good thing. Should I get different fittings? Use the 2nd part of the stock lines?http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161203_164359_zpsjgicbqzk.jpg

[lahrs37]

The alternator is not mounted in that picture yet...lol

[lahrs37]

Video update:
https://youtu.be/AhW40Hh1wJY

[lahrs37]

I got the cooling system fully plumbed. I started to fill it with coolant and noticed a leak coming from the area of the thermostat housing. I tried to tighten the bolts but to no avail. Upon inspecting the housing I noticed a crack. There is a small possibility that I cracked it by over tightening, but either way I ordered a new one. Hopefully that solves it.

On another thread I have been fighting with my hydraulic clutch system. I have ordered a smaller master cylinder (1" bore). Hopefully that reduces the pedal effort!

[lahrs37]

End of the year update video!

https://youtu.be/RYp401vY2ZI

[lahrs37]

https://youtu.be/ZcQbsxeyBms

So that is a quick shot of it running for real. I had a ton of stuff that needed to be addressed before that happened. First there was a coolant leak. It looked like it was coming from the Thermostat housing so I tried to tighten it down a bit more and ended up cracking it. Ugh. So I ordered a new one. When I took the old one off I realized that even though I had put a gasket on, I hadn't put any rtv. I thought maybe that was cause of the leak. I reassembled the new thermostat housing with plenty of rtv... Another coolant leak!
This was definitely from the water pump. I removed the water pump and inspected it. Sure enough the internal gasket had failed. It looked like it should have been user serviceable, but because they are so cheap I just replaced it.
I reassembled and ... another coolant leak!
This time it was on the lower radiator hose where it joined the water pump. Easier tightened down. Whew!
The next problem was the timing. I started a whole other thread about that, so I will skip that here. Needless to say, the community was sooo incredibly helpful!
Once I had the timing nailed, the engine would turn once and instantly die. My mechanic friend said that by running a different cam I might need to bump up my idle. That led me to do some research online which eventually led to the "ah ha!" moment. I still had the Idle Air Control valve from the original engine and that was a known failure point. I replaced it and BAM starts every time and stays on! It felt like a magic trick!
Moving forward towards a go kart, I need to clearance the parking brake bracket because the drive shaft is contacting it. I have a few bad lug nuts which need to be replaced. I need to adjust the tie rods, route some wiring, get insurance, and mount my gauges. If all goes well it should be about 2 weeks.

[lahrs37]

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170107_124614_zpsho2qek8h.jpg


http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170107_131337_zpsndjznhrj.jpg

Over the weekend I clearenced the parking brake bracket so the driveshaft wouldn't contact it, I roughed in the tie rods and tightened everything down. I made a huge mess trying to get fluid into the transmission, and I got the car on it's wheels. I still hadn't hooked up the gauges, but I though it might be a good idea to actually get the timing set. To to do that I decided I would move the car out of the garage a bit. The garage is attached to our apartment and when I run the engine the exhaust gets into the house.
I was super excited that the car moved under its own power! Granted it was only a few feet, but still. Unfortunately that excitement was quickly tempered. The clutch was obviously not adjusted quite right because it was a little tricky to get it into gear and I stalled it by trying to get into reverse. Also, the engine sputtered and dies once I was outside. Ugh! I thought I had that figured out! After that I couldn't get it restarted. That meant that I needed to find three people to help me push the car back into the garage. In the meantime it got half buried in snow. Ugh. I think I am going to focus on some interior bits for a bit because I am getting pretty discouraged trying to get the darn thing to run right.

[GoDadGo]

You Took Your Baby Out In The Cold Without Her Cloths!
You Don't Want Her To Catch A Cold Do You?
Hang In There & Good Luck!

[lahrs37]

You Took Your Baby Out In The Cold Without Her Cloths!
You Don't Want Her To Catch A Cold Do You?
Hang In There & Good Luck!

haha, no I definitely don't want her to catch a cold!
I have a mechanic friend who lives in CT. I am going to try and convince him to come down, visit, and help me troubleshoot this darn thing. Objectively I know that I will eventually get it running right, but I secretly fear I won't. Once I can turn the key and it starts every time I will feel a lot better.

[GoDadGo]

I hear you loud and clear because I'm now buttoning up my much delayed build and the fear of the unknown is killing me.
Will it or won't it start when I finally turn that key on that fateful day!

[Jazzman]

haha, no I definitely don't want her to catch a cold!
I have a mechanic friend who lives in CT. I am going to try and convince him to come down, visit, and help me troubleshoot this darn thing. Objectively I know that I will eventually get it running right, but I secretly fear I won't. Once I can turn the key and it starts every time I will feel a lot better.

Perhaps the frame is having rejection issues because the heart is not the right blood type?!!! :rolleyes: wink, wink!! Your build looks great. You are really moving along well. You will find the issues and it will be rock solid. Hope you are having fun. Sorry about all the white stuff outside. Tis the season to gloat in Arizona. It is 61 here today!!

[lahrs37]

Perhaps the frame is having rejection issues because the heart is not the right blood type?!!! :rolleyes: wink, wink!! Your build looks great. You are really moving along well. You will find the issues and it will be rock solid. Hope you are having fun. Sorry about all the white stuff outside. Tis the season to gloat in Arizona. It is 61 here today!!

Thanks for the kind words. We moved here from the Central Coast of CA a year and half ago. When I feel like torturing myself I check the weather there! I am quite envious!

[lahrs37]

So after some googling and sorting through posts on both of the forums, plus some other foxbody forums, I have come up with a checklist to start going through:
1. Throttle position sensor - check voltage to make sure it is in spec (this is from the old engine so who knows whether it is still good)
2. Is there enough gas in the tank? I put about 4 gallons, so i think that should be good.
3. Clean and/or replace the throttle body - especially where the TPS mounts.
4. check for vacuum leaks
5. check for bad injectors- i have felt all 8 of the headers and they get hot so I am thinking that may not be a problem
6. Replace the MAF? Again another old part
7. Check the manifold gasket
8. Is the dizzy mounted in the right orientation? I have read that even if the rotor is pointing at the correct spark plug wire, the orientation of the casing might still effect things.

That is all i came up with. If anyone else has any other ideas feel free to chime in!

[lahrs37]

Video update: https://youtu.be/TApnXA1-YD8

[blitzkreig baja]

Hey lahrs37,

I'm liking your build. I too am going with a 5.0 HO from a junkyard. You are way ahead of me though. (engine is torn down, but lots to do to get it back together) I also plan to get the modern driveline mid-shift. Was curious how that was to install on the t-5?

Looking forward to the go cart vid when you get her running.

[lahrs37]

Hey lahrs37,

I'm liking your build. I too am going with a 5.0 HO from a junkyard. You are way ahead of me though. (engine is torn down, but lots to do to get it back together) I also plan to get the modern driveline mid-shift. Was curious how that was to install on the t-5?

Looking forward to the go cart vid when you get her running.

It was pretty easy once I found the right YouTube video. I kind of muddled my through it. You can actually call modern drive line and someone will talk you through the install process. Actually you can call them multiple times if you need to. :) What are the specs for your build?

[blitzkreig baja]

I got the base kit. optioned in FFRs manual steering rack, lower control arms, and willwood pedal box. SN95 spindels, disks, and calipers up front. I have an 8.8 inch I rebuilt with 3.27 gears and 5 lug conversion. I,m leaving it drum brakes and 4 link. A rebuilt t5 (Have not got it yet, but plans for the Modern driveline mid-shift) with manual clutch. Have a 5.0 HO from a 96 Explorer. (They came with the same GT40 heads and intake as the 93 Mustang Cobra) I'm swapping out the cam for a foxbody cam, 24Lbs injectors, BBK MAF sensor, and cold air induction. (there are also a few other swaps to make, like oil pan and pickup, water pump, to make it fox body or MK4 roadster compatible. 15" FFR halibrand wheels. I guess that's about it. OH, red with black stripes. I figure It will be something I can cruise to a show or two in with a little more than the stock stock HP.

[lahrs37]

I got the base kit. optioned in FFRs manual steering rack, lower control arms, and willwood pedal box. SN95 spindels, disks, and calipers up front. I have an 8.8 inch I rebuilt with 3.27 gears and 5 lug conversion. I,m leaving it drum brakes and 4 link. A rebuilt t5 (Have not got it yet, but plans for the Modern driveline mid-shift) with manual clutch. Have a 5.0 HO from a 96 Explorer. (They came with the same GT40 heads and intake as the 93 Mustang Cobra) I'm swapping out the cam for a foxbody cam, 24Lbs injectors, BBK MAF sensor, and cold air induction. (there are also a few other swaps to make, like oil pan and pickup, water pump, to make it fox body or MK4 roadster compatible. 15" FFR halibrand wheels. I guess that's about it. OH, red with black stripes. I figure It will be something I can cruise to a show or two in with a little more than the stock stock HP.

That sounds like a great build. If I was to do it again I wouldn't have gone so crazy with the heads, cam, and intake. I would probably not even fully utilize a stock engine. I am looking forward to following your build!

[lahrs37]

Video update...
https://youtu.be/wyaypuptD0s

[wareaglescott]

Looking forward to tomorrow's video of it running!
I Watched the video. The grounds for the dash lights and license plate light aren't the problem. Good luck today.

[lahrs37]

Looking forward to tomorrow's video of it running!
I Watched the video. The grounds for the dash lights and license plate light aren't the problem. Good luck today.

Thanks! Even as I said that I knew that didn't make a lot sense. I dig the positive energy!

[RickP]

your build is coming along great. The motor issue will get solved one way or another and that discouragement your feeling now will be forgotten. After my first start, the motor just wasn't running right. I had it towed to a local hotrod shop in Pottstown and a bunch of $$$ later, she is running perfect. My point is I did everything I could but finally reached out for some help.

P.S. saw your one YouTube where you say you "hate the corrugated pipe". I'm in the same camp. Breeze sells a real nice (not cheap) upper and lower solid pipe hose. For now, the corrugated will have to do until I get the itch to upgrade. I did replace the FFR supplied band clamps with Summit constant tension clamps. Made all the difference. No leaks.

[lahrs37]

your build is coming along great. The motor issue will get solved one way or another and that discouragement your feeling now will be forgotten. After my first start, the motor just wasn't running right. I had it towed to a local hotrod shop in Pottstown and a bunch of $$$ later, she is running perfect. My point is I did everything I could but finally reached out for some help.

P.S. saw your one YouTube where you say you "hate the corrugated pipe". I'm in the same camp. Breeze sells a real nice (not cheap) upper and lower solid pipe hose. For now, the corrugated will have to do until I get the itch to upgrade. I did replace the FFR supplied band clamps with Summit constant tension clamps. Made all the difference. No leaks.

Those pipes looks sweet! I am probably going to have to wait for a while to do that too. The next post will explain why...

[lahrs37]

Huge setback:
https://youtu.be/UOGwOWsS8Aw

[GoDadGo]

Hang In There Lawrence!

Good Luck, Keep Calm & Don't Give Up!

Steve

[lahrs37]

Hang In There Lawrence!

Good Luck, Keep Calm & Don't Give Up!

Steve

Thanks! I was bummed as I was taking everything apart. But now that I turned the corner and am reassembling I feel better. In the grand scheme of things it was an expensive mistake, but one I am glad that I get to learn from - which is the whole point, right?

[GoDadGo]

Nothing in life that is worth doing is ever easy because accomplishment, I mean real accomplishment, is never accompanied by a Participation Trophy!
If this were easy then the accomplishment, in the end, would be minimal.

Steve

[lahrs37]

Nothing in life that is worth doing is ever easy because accomplishment, I mean real accomplishment, is never accompanied by a Participation Trophy!
If this were easy then the accomplishment, in the end, would be minimal.

Steve

Well said sir!

[Straversi]

That's a bummer, but thanks for sharing the experience. Makes us all slow down and double check. Keep plugging away.
-Steve

[lahrs37]

That's a bummer, but thanks for sharing the experience. Makes us all slow down and double check. Keep plugging away.
-Steve

Thanks for the kind words Steve. My brother, who is a book binder, told me the way to make a truly great book is to stop trying to finish it. In the back of my mind I have always assumed I would be on the road by the summer, but that push to finish can be detrimental. I am going to try and slow down and just enjoy the process more. :)

[wareaglescott]

Sorry for the setback! It will just make you that much prouder of your accomplishment when you get done!

[lahrs37]

Sorry for the setback! It will just make you that much prowder of your accomplishment when you get done!

Thanks man. I like that sentiment a lot!

[lahrs37]

I just got a call from my machine shop. My heads are all ready to be picked up! Apparently I only had 2 bent valves so the price ended up being about half of what I was expecting. I should be back in business and hopefully running/go-karting by this coming weekend.

[lahrs37]

My engine is now mostly back together. I am getting fast at this!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170213_214128_zps4ohprldo.jpg

Edit: Yes I know the belt is on wrong in this picture. :)

[lahrs37]

So I ended up needing to get a different belt - a 74" as opposed to 73.5" - because I changed my power steering pulley as I bent my last one. With that done, I threw on the headers and exhaust and fired it up. After a few tried and fiddling with the dizzy with the SPOUT out I thought I had it dialed in. It then stalled and I couldn't restart. I think maybe I didn't tighten down the dizzy and it shifted. Not entirely sure. Also when everything was apart I pulled the tie rod to knuckle connectors because they were on the wrong side. In pulling them I jacked up the threads on the passenger side lower ball joint. I am going to go try and find a die with that thread pitch to try and save that stud because replacing that ball joint means pulling the a arms and having it pressed out. In any event redoing most of the engine ended up being a fairly minor setback!

[lahrs37]

OK, I have fixed the threads on the ball joint. I got the engine running relatively reliably. I think I might have hooked up the tach wrong and that was messing with the dizzy somehow... In any event, I set the timing and it seems to be idling alright. Joee helped set the idle before I grenaded the engine and the settings seemed to have carried over. I am stilling getting a random pop coming from the passenger side. One of the header bolts won't thread in straight no matter what I do, so maybe that is the issue. Hopefully I will be Go-Karting on the beautiful weather tomorrow! https://youtu.be/M4HebYT8FJ4

[RickP]

OK, I have fixed the threads on the ball joint. I got the engine running relatively reliably. I think I might have hooked up the tach wrong and that was messing with the dizzy somehow... In any event, I set the timing and it seems to be idling alright. Joee helped set the idle before I grenaded the engine and the settings seemed to have carried over. I am stilling getting a random pop coming from the passenger side. One of the header bolts won't thread in straight no matter what I do, so maybe that is the issue. Hopefully I will be Go-Karting on the beautiful weather tomorrow! https://youtu.be/M4HebYT8FJ4


I think I heard the pop your referring too in the above vid. Right when before you said "backfire". Where do you have your O2 sensor located? I originally located mine in the header which turned out to be a big mistake. After relocating to the side pipe collector, my motor smoothed right out.

[lahrs37]

I think I heard the pop your referring too in the above vid. Right when before you said "backfire". Where do you have your O2 sensor located? I originally located mine in the header which turned out to be a big mistake. After relocating to the side pipe collector, my motor smoothed right out.

Interesting. I do have the o2 sensor in my header. What engine are you running? I go-karted today and there were no pops or crackles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drbqYCAAKQQ

On a separate note I am leaking power steering fluid and oil. I will address both of those leaks before I run it again.

[RickP]

I think I have my answer to where your O2 sensor is. 3:21 into this vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOGwOWsS8Aw I see the hole for your O2 sensor in your header. I had mine located in the exact same location. Almost identical to where yours is and my motor would just not run right. I'm running a FITech EFI but the principal is the same. Your collecting info from one exhaust port. I was advised to move mine just behind the collector on the side pipe (still not sure if it will interfere with the body installed) but, after doing so, all my engine tuning issues went away. Like as in night and day.

[lahrs37]

I think I have my answer to where your O2 sensor is. 3:21 into this vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOGwOWsS8Aw I see the hole for your O2 sensor in your header. I had mine located in the exact same location. Almost identical to where yours is and my motor would just not run right. I'm running a FITech EFI but the principal is the same. Your collecting info from one exhaust port. I was advised to move mine just behind the collector on the side pipe (still not sure if it will interfere with the body installed) but, after doing so, all my engine tuning issues went away. Like as in night and day.

That is really good to know! I have ordered a pair of Gas-n pipes. When I get them I will look into welding bungs into them. Maybe I will wait until the body is on so I don't run into interference issues like you mentioned you are concerned about.

[RickP]

Interesting. I do have the o2 sensor in my header. What engine are you running? I go-karted today and there were no pops or crackles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drbqYCAAKQQ

On a separate note I am leaking power steering fluid and oil. I will address both of those leaks before I run it again.


Based on your go-kart vid (congrats BTW), sounds you have it running great. If its running right, leave it be. Back firing on an EFI motor usually boils down to the O2 sensor. Confusion on the air/fuel mix. but sounds as if your setup is reading correctly. I didn't hear any popping in the vid.

I have a 302 pulled from an 87 5.0. Instead of the stock EFI mumbo jumbo I am running a FItech efi. My O2 sensor was in the same place as you have yours currently. It always ran rich and I couldnt even get a tune on it. It would run one minute, and not the next. Only way I could keep it running was to put my foot into it. Now I have it plugged up and the sensor is at the collector. Runs and idles perfect.

[RickP]

That is really good to know! I have ordered a pair of Gas-n pipes. When I get them I will look into welding bungs into them. Maybe I will wait until the body is on so I don't run into interference issues like you mentioned you are concerned about.


I'm going to attempt body fitment next weekend. I'm really hoping I have the sensor angled right. With all the trials and tribulations you have been through as of late, I bet that go-kart ride was like wooooo hoooo.

P.S. I had a number of leaks to overcome.

[lahrs37]

Based on your go-kart vid (congrats BTW), sounds you have it running great. If its running right, leave it be. Back firing on an EFI motor usually boils down to the O2 sensor. Confusion on the air/fuel mix. but sounds as if your setup is reading correctly. I didn't hear any popping in the vid.

I have a 302 pulled from an 87 5.0. Instead of the stock EFI mumbo jumbo I am running a FItech efi. My O2 sensor was in the same place as you have yours currently. It always ran rich and I couldnt even get a tune on it. It would run one minute, and not the next. Only way I could keep it running was to put my foot into it. Now I have it plugged up and the sensor is at the collector. Runs and idles perfect.

My 302 is from a 93, but I opted to stick with the stock fuel injection setup. If I start running into problems in the future I will definitely keep the o2 location in mind.

[lahrs37]

I'm going to attempt body fitment next weekend. I'm really hoping I have the sensor angled right. With all the trials and tribulations you have been through as of late, I bet that go-kart ride was like wooooo hoooo.

P.S. I had a number of leaks to overcome.

I was also thinking I might toss on the body for a bit so I can bolt up my high-back seats in the correct position. And yes the ride was freaking sweet!

[RickP]

I was also thinking I might toss on the body for a bit so I can bolt up my high-back seats in the correct position. And yes the ride was freaking sweet!

I admire your tenacity. The 5.0 stock setup coupled with the OEM harness is a lot to overcome/understand. The motor set-back you had can easily take the wind out of your sails. Makes that first go-kart ride all the better....


keep the video's coming. Love seeing your progress.

[lahrs37]

I admire your tenacity. The 5.0 stock setup coupled with the OEM harness is a lot to overcome/understand. The motor set-back you had can easily take the wind out of your sails. Makes that first go-kart ride all the better....


keep the video's coming. Love seeing your progress.

Thanks for the kind words! To be fair, I am using the Ron Francis chassis harness and their front harness which makes things a lot easier. My tenacity has basically been a byproduct of my stupidity. :) Either way, I will definitely keep the videos coming!

[lahrs37]

A little Go-kart debriefing and a look ahead to what is next: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbJ4vrX9aGo

[wareaglescott]

" My tenacity has basically been a byproduct of my stupidity."

This is one of the best lines I have read on here. I've certainly had the same issues but haven't been able to put it into words as eloquently! ha
Enjoyed the latest video.

Couple things on the seats and heaters.
I think I read about every thread possible on the kirkeys. Keep in mind you can also bend that outside shoulder bolster in a little bit to help with body clearance. That may be preferable to having the seat angled.
I used some mounts that attach to the side of the seats that allow you to position them with a little recline. I am very glad I used those. Purchased from Summit.
I had the wiring portion of the seat heaters come out the rear of the seat and I riveted the harness to the seat back and then ran the wires into the transmission tunnel behind the seats. It hides the wires nicely.

[lahrs37]

" My tenacity has basically been a byproduct of my stupidity."

This is one of the best lines I have read on here. I've certainly had the same issues but haven't been able to put it into words as eloquently! ha
Enjoyed the latest video.

Couple things on the seats and heaters.
I think I read about every thread possible on the kirkeys. Keep in mind you can also bend that outside shoulder bolster in a little bit to help with body clearance. That may be preferable to having the seat angled.
I used some mounts that attach to the side of the seats that allow you to position them with a little recline. I am very glad I used those. Purchased from Summit.
I had the wiring portion of the seat heaters come out the rear of the seat and I riveted the harness to the seat back and then ran the wires into the transmission tunnel behind the seats. It hides the wires nicely.

That is some super helpful info. Thanks!

[lahrs37]

Quick update: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QQ9NWyxaPM I am rethinking the way I am mounting the seats now that I read the previous comment...

[GoDadGo]

Hey Laurence,

It really looks like you are making good headway.
Nice to see that you conquered that engine mishap.
Keep It Up Bubba!

Steve

[lahrs37]

Hey Laurence,

It really looks like you are making good headway.
Nice to see that you conquered that engine mishap.
Keep It Up Bubba!

Steve

Thanks Steve!

[lahrs37]

Here is a quick video from today. I have the body on to get the right angle for the seats and couldn't resist popping out for a quick little ride. Also new are the Gas-N pipes which sound stellar. I have been tracking down leaks and slowly making this thing more solid. On the list is my loud-*** power steering pump! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlFZnoyCwd0

[Vette1972]

lahrs37,

Car sounds awesome! Are you sure the power steering fluid is full? Sounds like a typical Ford whine when it's low on fluid.

Len

[lahrs37]

lahrs37,

Car sounds awesome! Are you sure the power steering fluid is full? Sounds like a typical Ford whine when it's low on fluid.

Len

I had a leak in on the high pressure side. I fixed it and topped off the fluid, but it definitely sounds like air got into the system.

[lahrs37]

I have been in the doldrums of my build for a little while, but I have been still working!

Video update: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLMdiDd8qhw

Dashboard and shifter:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/IMG_20170306_172515_zpsbodskryk.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/IMG_20170311_114112_zpseuyw84wd.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/IMG_20170311_173325_zpsxsk0terv.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Breezed through your video and have a couple of comments.

1) The sidepipe cutouts get addressed during the bodywork phase in conjunction with the actual fitting of the pipes, final positioning of the body and installation of splash panels. they always need to be massaged and enlarged.

2) There are other sources for throttle cable (Lokar, etc). No matter what one you ultimately use PLEASE add a second return spring. The light spring on the throttle body is not designed or intended to be used as as a positive return.

3) The cooling fan is a high amperage draw and needs to switched through a relay with a 30 amp fuse on the output side (you will use the lower amperage fuse on the switch side).

You're getting there---carry on!

Jeff

[lahrs37]

Breezed through your video and have a couple of comments.

1) The sidepipe cutouts get addressed during the bodywork phase in conjunction with the actual fitting of the pipes, final positioning of the body and installation of splash panels. they always need to be massaged and enlarged.

2) There are other sources for throttle cable (Lokar, etc). No matter what one you ultimately use PLEASE add a second return spring. The light spring on the throttle body is not designed or intended to be used as as a positive return.

3) The cooling fan is a high amperage draw and needs to switched through a relay with a 30 amp fuse on the output side (you will use the lower amperage fuse on the switch side).

You're getting there---carry on!

Jeff

1. Good to know!

2. Do you have a link to a return spring setup? I was really surprised that there wasn't one in the kit. I definitely would like to run one.

3. That makes sense. I will look more closely at that and route it appropriately.

[wareaglescott]

The veneer on the dash looks really cool. That looks like a pretty great shop your father in law has!

[Jdav]

I assume I don't need my full kit provided accelerator cable since I'm running a coyote (correct me if I'm wrong coyote guys). If that's the case I can send you mine if you cover shipping

[lahrs37]

I assume I don't need my full kit provided accelerator cable since I'm running a coyote (correct me if I'm wrong coyote guys). If that's the case I can send you mine if you cover shipping

That would be awesome! I will PM you.

[lahrs37]

Video update: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsdYyRNMMjE

[lahrs37]

Video update re: interior. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skU6TGCcNG0

[wareaglescott]

Good video. A couple things:

1. The seat heater foam cut away pretty much stinks as you mentioned. I couldn't figure out an easier way!
2. The odd shaped carpet pieces you asked about - you need to wait until the body is installed and you install the aluminum pieces that go between the door opening on the frame and the body. They cover that area.
3. I went to Home Depot and got gray indoor/outdoor carpet for my trunk. Thinner than what you used, cheap and easy to install. Worked great. Pics in my build thread. Index in post 1 should tell you were to look if you are interested.

[lahrs37]

Good video. A couple things:

1. The seat heater foam cut away pretty much stinks as you mentioned. I couldn't figure out an easier way!
2. The odd shaped carpet pieces you asked about - you need to wait until the body is installed and you install the aluminum pieces that go between the door opening on the frame and the body. They cover that area.
3. I went to Home Depot and got gray indoor/outdoor carpet for my trunk. Thinner than what you used, cheap and easy to install. Worked great. Pics in my build thread. Index in post 1 should tell you were to look if you are interested.

1. Darn!
2. Ah that makes sense. I was kinda thinking that might be the case.
3. Awesome! Thanks​ for the tip. I will check that out.

I have a terrible habit of jumping into something and learning by making mistakes. When I try to slow down and read all of the information that is here I find myself not getting into the garage. I am working on it though!

[lahrs37]

Video update: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhJ8QQsy-js

[GoDadGo]

Laurence,

If you booger up your dash pad and need a new one I've got an original one that I can send you.
Let me know if you want me to send it to you.
You just have to pay for the postage.
Good Luck!

Steve

[lahrs37]

Laurence,

If you booger up your dash pad and need a new one I've got an original one that I can send you.
Let me know if you want me to send it to you.
You just have to pay for the postage.
Good Luck!

Steve

Thanks Steve!

Since I am going to eventually install the veneered one my father in law is making I don't mind messing this one up a little. Now, if you happen to have transmission tunnel carpet... lol

[GoDadGo]

Thanks Steve!

Now, if you happen to have transmission tunnel carpet... lol

Too Bad & So Sad That I Don't!

Have A Great Day!

[lahrs37]

Too Bad & So Sad That I Don't!

Have A Great Day!

You too!

[RickP]

Thanks Steve!

Since I am going to eventually install the veneered one my father in law is making I don't mind messing this one up a little. Now, if you happen to have transmission tunnel carpet... lol


If your looking for a tranny cover carpet piece, your certainly welcome to mine. I'm planning to cover mine with a different material. Maybe we can meet halfway between Philly and B-town somewhere. Shoot me a PM if you want an easy snag.

Rick

[lahrs37]

If your looking for a tranny cover carpet piece, your certainly welcome to mine. I'm planning to cover mine with a different material. Maybe we can meet halfway between Philly and B-town somewhere. Shoot me a PM if you want an easy snag.

Rick

That would be awesome! I will PM you.

[lahrs37]

Video update: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7TOShNamiM&t=25s

Now that the weather has turned I am all revved up again!

[lahrs37]

New video! i am getting better at this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dv5EDiyInik

[wareaglescott]

Another entertaining video.
My foam residue on the seat looks just like yours in the rough areas. Once its put all back together it works great and you cant feel any irregularity in the seating surface. I personally would not spend to much extra time getting all the fine scraps off.
I am excited to see this finished dash!

[GoDadGo]

Lawrence,

If you need an extra dash cover (FFR Orgininal) I can send you mine since I didn't use it.
Just P/M me your address and we can settle up on shipping later.
Also, you really need to try doing stand up.
Whit Is Your Strong Point!

Steve

[RickP]

Ah ha! Another video. I'm happy to know your back at. I also picked up that you have the RT turn signals. I wired the stalk button as a flash to pass and if the headlights are on, works as brights. Really integrates well with the FFR light switch.

Seats are coming along I see. Keep those videos coming.

[lahrs37]

Thanks Scott! Hopefully I will have a good dash progress video up soon!

[lahrs37]

Ah ha! Another video. I'm happy to know your back at. I also picked up that you have the RT turn signals. I wired the stalk button as a flash to pass and if the headlights are on, works as brights. Really integrates well with the FFR light switch.

Seats are coming along I see. Keep those videos coming.

Oh that is a great idea about the stalk button. I wasn't sure what was going to go there. I considered making it the horn but felt like I would not remember that when I needed it. :)

[lahrs37]

Lawrence,

If you need an extra dash cover (FFR Orgininal) I can send you mine since I didn't use it.
Just P/M me your address and we can settle up on shipping later.
Also, you really need to try doing stand up.
Whit Is Your Strong Point!

Steve

Thanks Steve! I am hoping this wood veneer dash turns out well. If it doesn't I will probably hit you up!

[lahrs37]

OK so I attempted to make cleaning my garage more fun by making a video about it. lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYNv90Lyy30&t=3s

[RickP]

ahhhhhhhh, the video is cut off.

we want to see the punch line. "I've got a crazy mess" and end of vid. Well gee whiz Left Nut, there's got to be an end to the story!

[lahrs37]

ahhhhhhhh, the video is cut off.

we want to see the punch line. "I've got a crazy mess" and end of vid. Well gee whiz Left Nut, there's got to be an end to the story!

Oh crud! Not sure what happened. I will try and fix it and repost.

[lahrs37]

Fixed!

https://youtu.be/E49NCrR_3lE

[RickP]

Bravo mate!

A mans home is his castle, but a garage is his sanctuary.

[lahrs37]

Bravo mate!

A mans home is his castle, but a garage is his sanctuary.

Truth!

[lahrs37]

Ok, this is the last non-build video I will post. I was basically testing my new setup. It is a GoPro mounted on a DSLR with a shotgun mic. It's a silly video. https://youtu.be/viW2DDyrw7s

[RickP]

OMG. Your like a man possessed. First the garage, now the CAR? Your putting all us type B folks to shame.

[lahrs37]

OMG. Your like a man possessed. First the garage, now the CAR? Your putting all us type B folks to shame.

I PROMISE I am also a type B kinda guy. There is a reason that cleaning is video worthy. :) I have been going a little crazy with my build getting sidelined for such a long time though. I am really glad to be back at it though.

[RickP]

I know the feeling. I've been sidelined past couple of weeks myself.

[lahrs37]

I just put my seats back together (finally!). I should have a video about it in the next week. But here is a shot of the headrest foam with the speakers installed. It works pretty well but it looks like I will have to clearance the headrest metal to avoid getting poked by the cones. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/laurenceharrington/IMG_20170505_214743_zpsbmxkglap.jpg

[wareaglescott]

Those head rests are cool! Nice job.
Do you have a plan for the back side of the seat to cover it somehow since that area is visible?
I don't have the wires/speakers like you do but am still considering coming up with something to give the upper part of the seat that is visible from behind the car a more finished look. Was wondering if you had any thoughts?
I was thinking about possibly ordering some black plastic ABD sheets and cutting to fit and tucking it in where the cover wraps around the seat back.

[Dave Howard]

Those head rests are cool! Nice job.
Do you have a plan for the back side of the seat to cover it somehow since that area is visible?
I don't have the wires/speakers like you do but am still considering coming up with something to give the upper part of the seat that is visible from behind the car a more finished look. Was wondering if you had any thoughts?
I was thinking about possibly ordering some black plastic ABD sheets and cutting to fit and tucking it in where the cover wraps around the seat back.

Like many first time builders, I too invested in a stereo system for my MkIV. An elaborate custom system that at the end of the day.....can't be heard. If you want to hear tunes while you're driving the best thing is ear buds and your iPhone.

[wareaglescott]

Like many first time builders, I too invested in a stereo system for my MkIV. An elaborate custom system that at the end of the day.....can't be heard. If you want to hear tunes while you're driving the best thing is ear buds and your iPhone.

Did you put speakers in the headrest of your high back seats? Because I have a very hard time imagining he won't be able to hear them!

[Dave Howard]

Not in the head rest but in the back cockpit wall. The wind noise at 50 mph will be too much regardless of where the speakers are mounted.
Think of a Mastercraft at 50 mph on the water. The roadster is worse.

No stereo in the next roadster.

[lahrs37]

Those head rests are cool! Nice job.
Do you have a plan for the back side of the seat to cover it somehow since that area is visible?
I don't have the wires/speakers like you do but am still considering coming up with something to give the upper part of the seat that is visible from behind the car a more finished look. Was wondering if you had any thoughts?
I was thinking about possibly ordering some black plastic ABD sheets and cutting to fit and tucking it in where the cover wraps around the seat back.

That is an interesting thought. Since the tweeter cone pokes up a little when it is mounted I was thinking I may have to clearance the back of the headrest metal which would make it look even more jenky than it already does. A plastic cover would solve that nicely.

[lahrs37]

Not in the head rest but in the back cockpit wall. The wind noise at 50 mph will be too much regardless of where the speakers are mounted.
Think of a Mastercraft at 50 mph on the water. The roadster is worse.

No stereo in the next roadster.

I hear ya. If it was up to me I would have left them out, but this particular mod kept my wife happy. If it turns out the music can't be heard at all I can't be said to have not done my due diligence. :)

[Dave Howard]

There's an idea for a new forum thread....what was the wife's input to the build?

Mine was heated seats and cup holders. I had to draw the line at the passenger side roll bar. Not the look I was looking for.

[wareaglescott]

That is an interesting thought. Since the tweeter cone pokes up a little when it is mounted I was thinking I may have to clearance the back of the headrest metal which would make it look even more jenky than it already does. A plastic cover would solve that nicely.

After posting this I started looking around amazon for a good product. Found and ordered some "kydex T sheet" that looks to have potential. Should be here in next couple days. I will let you know how it works.

[lahrs37]

There's an idea for a new forum thread....what was the wife's input to the build?

Mine was heated seats and cup holders. I had to draw the line at the passenger side roll bar. Not the look I was looking for.

My wife is an Occupational Therapist. She worked with traumatic brain injury patients for a year so there was no way I was going to be able to do low back seats or only one roll bar. At first I was bummed, but after a while I realized that the Kirkey's are going to be great for autocross and time attack. So I actually ended up being happy with that input. The verdict is still out on the sound system. I will say it has been fun to try and find a solution that might work.

[lahrs37]

After posting this I started looking around amazon for a good product. Found and ordered some "kydex T sheet" that looks to have potential. Should be here in next couple days. I will let you know how it works.

Cool. I will stay tuned!

[lahrs37]

New build video!! https://youtu.be/V63wruAkACc

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice work on the dash but I have a concern about what will happen to the thick Super Glaze finish when you bend the ends around to tuck in behind the hinges. Have you tried to bend your test piece 90 degrees to see if the clear coating will flex rather than crack?

Jeff

[lahrs37]

Nice work on the dash but I have a concern about what will happen to the thick Super Glaze finish when you bend the ends around to tuck in behind the hinges. Have you tried to bend your test piece 90 degrees to see if the clear coating will flex rather than crack?

Jeff

My test piece remained pliable long after it was fully cured so I am not anticipating a problem. Though now that you brought it up that will be the first thing I do when I get home today. :)

[Wylie Coyote]

Super Cool

[lahrs37]

Super Cool

Thanks!

[wareaglescott]

Dash looks good!
I can appreciate all the time you have put into those seats! For the wires coming off the pads I ended up drilling a hole a little above the seat belt opening and ran them through there with a grommet. I think that may work a little better for you as they won't get any wear and tear with the lap belt constantly rubbing around them. I have actually been replacing my drivers side wiring this week because it failed for some reason! A dedicated hole for them may be a good idea.
The plastic covering on the back worked great. I think if you make some holes for speaker backs like you are talking about that plastic material will cover it very nicely.

[lahrs37]

Dash looks good!
I can appreciate all the time you have put into those seats! For the wires coming off the pads I ended up drilling a hole a little above the seat belt opening and ran them through there with a grommet. I think that may work a little better for you as they won't get any wear and tear with the lap belt constantly rubbing around them. I have actually been replacing my drivers side wiring this week because it failed for some reason! A dedicated hole for them may be a good idea.
The plastic covering on the back worked great. I think if you make some holes for speaker backs like you are talking about that plastic material will cover it very nicely.

Thanks!
That is a great idea about the hole and grommet. That is a bummer about the seat warmer. What did you use to adhere the heater?
I am glad to hear that the plastic has worked out well. I almost feel bad that I cribbing so much from you! :)

[wareaglescott]

I just used spray adhesive to attach the heater pads and the foam all back together. Looked like the same thing you were doing in the video. All sandwiched together with the seat cover on the seat it all stays in position very nice.
Only thing I did different was just trim the entire lower pad to length just short of the hole for the crotch strap.

[lahrs37]

New video all about wiring the dash! https://youtu.be/CtVIxpLZGw0

[wareaglescott]

I like the finish on the dash. Looks nice!

....so side story - when I start watching and my wife hears your voice she always comes to watch. About 10 minutes in she looks at me and says why am I watching this I have stuff I need to be doing? Yet she continues to watch to the end and tells me "this dude is entertaining"! haha
We are enjoying the video updates. Unique approach to keeping your build thread up to date! Good job.

[RickP]

Looking good Laurence. Dash came out great. Obviously a lot of work went into it and surely it's paid off. Steering wheel sets it all off very nicely. Over coming certain phases of the build like the dash mounting and wiring sure makes one feel good. Keep those videos coming.

[lahrs37]

I like the finish on the dash. Looks nice!

....so side story - when I start watching and my wife hears your voice she always comes to watch. About 10 minutes in she looks at me and says why am I watching this I have stuff I need to be doing? Yet she continues to watch to the end and tells me "this dude is entertaining"! haha
We are enjoying the video updates. Unique approach to keeping your build thread up to date! Good job.

That is quite the compliment! Thanks! That kind of feedback totally helps me stay motivated.

Also, I got your PM re: plastic back on post 587. I am totally going to steel that idea when I get there! :)

[lahrs37]

Looking good Laurence. Dash came out great. Obviously a lot of work went into it and surely it's paid off. Steering wheel sets it all off very nicely. Over coming certain phases of the build like the dash mounting and wiring sure makes one feel good. Keep those videos coming.

Thanks! I am really quite pleased with it. Hopefully I can channel that excitement into the wiring marathon I have ahead of me. I am very much looking forward to that part being done. :)

[wareaglescott]

That is quite the compliment! Thanks! That kind of feedback totally helps me stay motivated.

Also, I got your PM re: plastic back on post 587. I am totally going to steel that idea when I get there! :)

When I did that post I had only done one seat and was waiting for a seat heater to arrive in the mail before doing the second. When I did the second one I found that once I had cut the piece a heat gun works really well to shape that stuff and make it really contour to the back of the seat. I never put that in the post but add that to your plan.

[lahrs37]

When I did that post I had only done one seat and was waiting for a seat heater to arrive in the mail before doing the second. When I did the second one I found that once I had cut the piece a heat gun works really well to shape that stuff and make it really contour to the back of the seat. I never put that in the post but add that to your plan.

Wo, totally. Will do! :)

[lahrs37]

Finally a new video! And this one will explain why I have been not uploading! https://youtu.be/E41_7Kh6aGo

[lahrs37]

Hey folks, about 4 months ago I got a second job (as a mechanic!) and certain things have fallen through the cracks - the main one being updating my progress videos. I kept working though and here is the proof: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zpx6DFJWGsezJAKt2

She is currently going through the advanced inspection process. Hopefully, I will get some time to post up the progress videos to show how I go to this point.

Cheers,

Laurence

[GoDadGo]

Hey Laurence,

Making progress my friend.
Also, that dash and partially wrapped steering wheel look great.
Good Luck & Look Forward To Seeing You Get Your Licence Plate Soon!

Steve

[Yama-Bro]

Good to see that you are still at it. Good luck on the inspection.