Video showing My First Sanding of the HSRF on Mk3

[DadofThree]

In this video I'm showing the result of using 80 grit to know down the high areas of the hsrf that I had put in the seams of the body.

Take a look if you want to see a newby try to figure out body work.

Any helpful comments are welcome.

Dave

Sanding the HSRF (First Pass) (https://youtu.be/msDoOmXEu9o)



https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8432/29416231582_f6614b61d0_z.jpg

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8377/29235525190_8e8a262808_z.jpg

[Gumball]

In order to avoid parting lines or any other impression of the transition between the original body and the filler, you may want to spread your next layers a little wider. I didn't use HSRF on this part - just Rage Gold - but here's a pic of how mine looked on the last (or maybe next to last) effort.

Note that when applying filler, I was told to always spread it in a front-to-back fashion - not side-to-side. Not sure if that makes a difference, but it was an easy instruction for me to follow, so I figured it couldn't hurt.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/FourthCoat3_zps286ddf8e.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/FourthCoat3_zps286ddf8e.jpg.html)

[Duke]

A good rule of thumb is that your 'spot' you are working should have filler 6x the diameter. So if it's a 1" round flaw then the filler should be about 6". Most of it will come off when sanding. D/A sander is fine for getting it close/into shape but everything else should be done by hand using a good series of blocks. Long smooth strokes with even pressure, no small swirls. Use a guide code if this is your first time so you can start to see how material comes off. https://www.amazon.com/SEM-38203-Black-Guide-Coat/dp/B000PL06IU

[DadofThree]

In order to avoid parting lines or any other impression of the transition between the original body and the filler, you may want to spread your next layers a little wider. I didn't use HSRF on this part - just Rage Gold - but here's a pic of how mine looked on the last (or maybe next to last) effort.

Note that when applying filler, I was told to always spread it in a front-to-back fashion - not side-to-side. Not sure if that makes a difference, but it was an easy instruction for me to follow, so I figured it couldn't hurt.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/FourthCoat3_zps286ddf8e.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/FourthCoat3_zps286ddf8e.jpg.html)



A good rule of thumb is that your 'spot' you are working should have filler 6x the diameter. So if it's a 1" round flaw then the filler should be about 6". Most of it will come off when sanding. D/A sander is fine for getting it close/into shape but everything else should be done by hand using a good series of blocks. Long smooth strokes with even pressure, no small swirls. Use a guide code if this is your first time so you can start to see how material comes off. https://www.amazon.com/SEM-38203-Black-Guide-Coat/dp/B000PL06IU



Thank you Chris and Duke. That's a big help.

[Avalanche325]

HSRF is great for things that are deep, like >1/4" and for building things up. I would move to Rage Gold now. I (being an amateur) would also put the DA away and do it by hand for the rest of it.

There is spray or powder guide coat. I used powder, but just personal preference. Don't use an old can of spray paint, like some people do, unless you KNOW it is compatible.

You need a good set of sanding blocks. These are great - http://adjustablesander.com/ . The AFS Master Kit and a couple different sized pool noodles will get it done. Don't EVER sand with your fingers or hand in case you didn't know that. Sand in an "X" pattern. You can see that on the nose of Gumball's picture.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Dave.
To reiterate what we discussed in our conversation this afternoon---you want to get the edge of the HSRF flush or below the 'glass; i.e. no ridge where it is higher. No need to fill the low HSRF "divots". From what I can tell no additional HSRF is needed on the areas that you have done. Again, you will have a flat ("ish") area along the fender tops, etc. and will use Rage for further shaping and filling which will ultimately create the continuous smooth curvature over the fender tops and so forth. As I said earlier don't be afraid to get after it with some 40...the coarser grit actually is better for establishing your shape.

Carry on!

Jeff

[Gumball]

I found that a short piece of a foam pool noodle with some adhesive-backed sandpaper works great for getting down in the valley between the fender / headlight pontoons and the nose.

[DadofThree]

Thank you all very much. Good ideas about the pool noodles.