Alignment Ideas

[ThickCobra]

I have decided to attempt the alignment of my anniversary model, which includes the new IRS, myself. I plan on doing an initial set and then revisit the settings after the car has settled and body on.

Since I'm making relatively good progress on my build I thought planning for this step should start with finding the right tools to perform camber, caster and toe, both front and rear. As my reading and research has identified several brands, models and price points, I thought I would ask for ideas. I'm looking for tools that are relatively easy to use, produce a high level of accuracy and won't break the bank.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

[EZ$]

I went with the Fastrax 91000 unit. I have the T-Bird IRS, so I don't know if there are any differences between it and the new Mustang IRS. It took me longer than it should have, but I'm just slow at everything. I used the folded plastic trash bags for the turn plates, and all I can say is that I'm glad I threw out all the other ideas for building turn plates I had collected when getting ready for the build. The trash bags worked so well, I don't know why anyone would do anything different!
Good Luck!
Rick

[wareaglescott]

I am a little behind you but am having the same thoughts about self alignment. If you are able please report back in this thread what tools you decided on and any tips or tricks.

[ThickCobra]

I am a little behind you but am having the same thoughts about self alignment. If you are able please report back in this thread what tools you decided on and any tips or tricks.

I thought that if I was ambitious enough to build this car then I could certainly be ambitious enough to self align it, with the proper tools, of course. When I decide which tools and approach, I will be glad to post it.

Jay

[NAZ]

5823158232Anyone that can assemble one of these cars can do a basic alignment and it's a good skill to have. The tools need not break the bank as a basic caster/camber gauge is a bit over $100 with a mag base. I've been using this Rebco unit for twenty-something years and it never needs batteries. I used to use turn plates but find it easier to use degree tabs (see the photo). If you substitute plastic for turn plates you still need to determine when your wheels are turned out 20-degrees to set caster. With degree tabs you simply place a piece of tape on the lower a-arm and place a mark aligned with the zero notch on the tab when the wheels are straight ahead. Turn the wheels until the edge of the tab is aligned with your mark and you're at 20-degrees. I also made steel mag-base adapters to temporarily replace my wheel caps (see 2nd photo) which makes it easy to adapt my C/C gauge. Once you master alignment you may want to step up to bump steer adjustment.

[edwardb]

I've picked up the several tools needed to do self alignment. Learned on my first build, refined a bit on the second, and have done the preliminary alignment on my 20th Anniversary build. First two builds were front alignment only. Now IRS for the first time with the 2015 version in the 20th Anniversary build. These are the tools I've settled on:

Specialty Products Company 91000 FasTrax Camber/Caster Gauge
Specialty Products Company 91030 FasTrax No Lip Adapters
Heidts TA-003 Toe-In Alignment Plates
Bosch GPL3T 3-Point Torpedo Laser Level
Several layers of your favorite brand trash bag for turn plates

The FasTrax is pretty straightforward to use following the provided directions to set caster and camber. The referenced adapters work pretty well on the older style Halibrands from Factory Five. The new 18-inch wheels provided with the 20th Anniversary Roadster have a rounded lip and not quite so easy. I was able to get results, but takes some extra effort.

Early on I tried the SPC 91100 Toe Adapter Kit to set toe-in. I was not happy with that setup and didn't feel like I was able to get reliable results. I returned that and bought the referenced toe plates. Those I feel are much more reliable. The added benefit I found was the steel toe plates allowed me to use the referenced Bosch laser level, which has a magnetic base, to duplicate the strings many use to assist with alignment. Other devices similar to the Bosch piece could be used, but that's what they had at the local tool store and it's a really nice tool.

I found the preliminary alignment I did on the new IRS to be pretty easy. With only camber and toe-in required, it's easier than the front. With the new IRS, nothing has to be taken apart to adjust. Both adjustments are similar to the UCA's on the front suspension, e.g. loosen the jam nut, turn to adjust, tighten the jam nut. Doesn't get much easier than that.

There are other tools that will get the job done. Maybe even better ones. These happen to be the ones I chose and have learned to use. The two finished cars I've done drive straight and true and both have enough miles to confirm no unusual tire wear. Someday I may have my work checked by a pro shop with their fancy equipment. But so far haven't had any reason to.

[CraigS]

I use these:
Caster/camber:
Longacre Caster Camber Gauge 78250 (http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1798&prodid=7219&pagetitle=Caster+%2f+Camber+Gauge+%26+case+only+-+NO+ADAPTER)
Mount it like this
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/Aligntool_zps8d9e8952.jpg
Toe:
Longacre Toe Bar 79622 (http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=2445&prodid=7212&pagetitle=Toe+Bar)
To get the rear toein centered on the chassis (zero thrust angle) I use an 8 ft long straight edge. A straight piece of wood trim works great. Find two items that are about 5 inches tall to set each end on on the floor next to the tires. Set the straight edge on these two boxes. Push it against the front and rear sidewalls of the rear tire and then use a tape measure to measure the distance in to the main frame tube just behind the front wheel

[RR20AC]

Received the quicktrick quickslide elite tool yesterday. Very inexpensive looking for the cost. I will be doing it myself as the local tire shops left me kind of hanging when asked about aligning a kit car. I was going to make some turn plates out of silicone cutting board material with the graduated degrees on them. Here is the kit pic.

[cgundermann]

See your 10 minutes away (I'm in Bonney Lake)...curious on your efforts; just getting ready to tackle alignment myself...

[RR20AC]

See your 10 minutes away (I'm in Bonney Lake)...curious on your efforts; just getting ready to tackle alignment myself...

Yes, I'm sure we could use this on your car too. Really like to see your build. I'm just getting started on the wiring of the engine to the main wiring harness and not quite ready to use this tool for mine. The turn plates are a good thing to have at an event. Most use plastic bags layered and 20 degree marks on the floor. This company has several videos on their website which explains the procedure better than the instruction do. Looked them up and we can get you going.... Jim https://www.quicktrickalignment.com/wheel-alignment-tips/

[rlampman]

I used to use turn plates but find it easier to use degree tabs (see the photo). If you substitute plastic for turn plates you still need to determine when your wheels are turned out 20-degrees to set caster. With degree tabs you simply place a piece of tape on the lower a-arm and place a mark aligned with the zero notch on the tab when the wheels are straight ahead. Turn the wheels until the edge of the tab is aligned with your mark and you're at 20-degrees.

NAZ, where did you get the degree tabs? Sounds like a great idea! Did some searching and couldn't find them. Did you make them? Do they stay installed or just when you do the alignment?
Rod

[CraigS]

A note on the 20 deg thing. The tool I posted has 20 deg corners on the outer end. I suspect the one NAZ posted also has them. It has something, I just don't know for a fact that they are 20 deg. On mine I added short lengths of aluminum to make it more obvious.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/IMG_20160812_131546299_zpscrp4sskg.jpg

[NAZ]

rlampman, the 20-degee tabs are what I came up with to eliminate the use of turn plates. Turn plates are expensive, heavy, and take up room. I sold mine and invested in more hot rod parts. I made the degree tabs out of aluminum and they are bolted on with the lower ball joint nut and are shaped so that they are captive and can't rotate even when the nut is loose. They stay on the car and are ready for use at the track without having to lug turn plates with you. Admittedly, these won't work for every application but it may get folks to thinking about ways to eliminate turn plates. Check out how CraigS determines when the wheel is turned out 20-degrees.

[ThickCobra]

Thanks everyone for the various great ideas. This forum continues to be an excellent place for sharing.

Jay

[CraigS]

Keep this in mind regarding caster. You will measure caster at each wheel maybe 10 times for each alignment. That's just the way it works as you make a guess at how much to turn the sleeve, and then check your results. My point is, that if you are off a bit on your 20 deg, you will be re-adjusting and re-measuring, so you will get there, in the end, no problem.

[Avalanche325]

I have a Fastrax and I use floor tiles, those old kind that schools and government building have with wax paper in between. I found some with broken corners at Home Depot and they gave them to me. I use jackstands, string and a metal ruler for toe.

RR20AC,
A friend of mine bought one that looks just like that, and it simply would not work on Halibrand type wheels. Hopefully yours is different.

[RR20AC]

I got this one because its instructions said it would fit the type of wheels I have. I guess I better try it sooner than later. It was suggested to help hold it on with a bungee cord.

[ThickCobra]

Again, thanks for all the ideas. When I get to aligning mine, I will post the tools I used and how it went.

Jay