Rod knock

[tmoretta]

Well I guess my ej205 engine is toast. The donor 2002 WRX had 112K miles on it when I installed it - Brian Crower street cams, VF 39 turbo, Cobb turbo controller professionally tuned. After 800 miles and 3 track days I have audible rod knock. Now the question is - what should I do? Basic short block rebuild, new short block, improved short block and my heads (reconditioned), used engine? By the way - there was no indication of lack of oil pressure before the knock was apparent. I will report visible damage after I dismantle the engine. And, I see that all suppliers of Stage one short blocks use the 2.5 liter. I know that my 2.0 heads will fit, but what about trans., alternator, turbo, etc. not to mention fitment in the 818 frame?

[Hindsight]

I would get a staged short block from someone like IAG. They are built with new OEM Subaru short blocks and then you can add better bearings, rods, forged pistons etc. Then have your heads rebuilt, get a gasket kit, new oil and water pump and off you are.

[Samiam1017]

depends on your budget and if you plan on wanting to add more power in the future.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Well . Now the question is - what should I do? Basic short block rebuild, new short block, improved short block and my heads (reconditioned), used engine?

tmoretta
We had a similar situation
Our 2.5L 04 95k fxt developed a rod knock after 400 AX runs and 7 track days.
I stole the engine slated for our second 818. my complete second donor was about 3k
But this time I'm adding a better oil cooler and a dry sump system.
Bob

[Zach34]

The experiences with the R's is showing that if you're tracking the car, you probably need a dry sump. We could probably turn this into a meme or some abbreviation.

[Sgt.Gator]

YNANSB.

This thread will answer many of your questions: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20387-Engine-blown-after-1-300-miles-what-now

If you will be tracking your car I strongly suggest a dry sump, particularly if you are using R comp tires.

I will add one more note that I learned the hard way after my Spec B rebuild (spun bearing at the track with a Killer Bee pan/pickup/baffle). Here's a copy from my Spec B rebuild thread on the LGT forum:

My break in is complete so I headed up to Cobb Surgeline for a tune. FAIL. My AVCS cams were stuck at 10 degrees on one side and 22 degrees on the other.

When I rebuilt the engine I replaced the AVCS oil control solenoids, but did not replace the AVCS cam sprockets. Mistake. I should have either sent them to Outfront motors for a rebuild, see:
https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/avcs-cam-gear-services/avcs-cam-gear-servicing

Or replaced them with new.

Strangely they set off no CELs.
The car actually drove ok. I couldn't tell the AVCS was not working right because I thought it was just the break in tune I was running and no CELs.

Since I'm busy re-building my STI race car I took the SpecB to Subaru of Bend. They replaced the AVCS cam sprockets and now the cam timing works per factory spec. They took the stuck cam sprockets apart to diagnose the issue. Here's a pic, see the goo in the corners:

58184

So now on my checklist for engines that have failed with metal bits in the oil: Replace or Service the AVCS Cam Sprockets. If I had done it when I rebuilt the engine I would have saved in total about $1,000. ($400 wasted Cobb tuning session, 400 mile round trip, day off from work, and AVCS sprocket replacement labor).

Also from the same thread:
Every once in a while we debate here on the forum about whether we really have to replace the oil cooler if your engine blew and you are rebuilding. Here's the answer from OutFront Motorsports, along with more good info:

"Thank you for purchasing a Short block from Outfront Motorsports, if your engine is equipped with an oil cooler and the short block was replaced because of rod, main or turbo bearing failure, the oil cooler must be replaced, as there may be debris trapped in the cooler that won’t release until it is subjected to both high oil pressure and heat. These coolers cost around $260 new. If a warrantee arises due to bearing failure, we will request a copy of the cooler purchase.

If your engine is equipped with a turbo: a bad/blown turbo can send debris into the crankcase and oiling system. Make sure to clean the turbo drain/feed hoses and nipples before installation.

If the short block was replaced because of piston failure, cracking or melting, the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds and cylinder ports must be cleaned and free of debris. Remove the throttle body from the intake to access and clean the plenum of the intake. We have seen particles that have blown from one side of the engine through the intake and lodge itself in the plenum or opposite side intake runners, only to be consumed by the new engine upon start up.

We recommend an oil pump of at least a #10 found in the upper left corner of the pump when looking at it. Do not use #7 or #9 pumps. The number refers to the millimeter thickness of the gears inside. On high performance engines, oil pressure will generally be lower at idle than stock engines as we have enlarged the bearing clearances for sustained higher engine RPM operation. If your engine is supplied with high performance pistons, oil consumption can possibly be higher than normal due to a larger piston to cylinder wall clearance used, this consumption could be up to 1 quart per 800 miles. As a standard our motors do not see this type of oil consumption but this is the Subaru spec. If your engine was rebuilt with stock style pistons, oil consumption of up to one quart per 1200 miles is considered within spec, per Subaru’s’ warranty policy 8.4.29.

Recommended break in should be 3000 miles driven under normal conditions, do not use synthetic oils during break-in, use good quality multigrade oils such as Motul 10/40 break-in oil, Valvoline or Castrol. We recommend an oil change with filter at 100, 500 and 1000, 2000, and 3000 miles. At 3000 miles you can switch to synthetic oils if you choose to. For the first 500 – 1000 miles try to avoid long periods of time at the same RPM such as freeway driving at 3500 RPM for 30 minutes. You should vary through the RPM range. Stock boost is fine but you should stay away from high boost/high load situations.