Help please..driveshaft hitting Ebrake cable mount

[wareaglescott]

I received my new driveshaft today. Not really related to this post but FFR initially sent me the wrong one (the shorter one). That is why there are two in this picture for comparison.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58049&d=1472757335

The new one the piece that attaches at the rear to the driveshaft adapter is a little more bulkier. The drivetrain setup is coyote, TKO600, IRS if that matters. When I went to install it there is a conflict with the mounting bracket that the Ebrake cables attach to. The driveshaft can not rotate more than about 1/5 turn in either direction without hitting it. Here is a pic:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58050&d=1472757344

questions:
I have a message into FFR and am waiting for a reply. Is it possible I have the wrong one again? The length looks perfect.

Has anyone else had this issue?

Do I have any other option other than cutting away part of the Ebrake cable mounting bracket?

With an IRS how much clearance would I need. The rear of the car is currently on jack stands under the 4" tubes so the suspension is effectively hanging. When I installed the last driveshaft the pinion angle was extremely close to zero. Like between 0 and .5 degrees. Nothing has changed so this one should be the same.

Anything else you would add please do.

Thanks as always

[6t8dart]

are you sure your trans is not shifted over a bit to one side? if you losten the engine mount bolts, you could possible have 1-2" inches of movement side to side. As I remember, the A-frame has slotted holes, you might be off toward the bracket a little too far.

edit: you could also grind a little clearance off the bracket, but your trans will move a bit when accelerating and shifting, better to get as much clearance as you can, at least 3/8 of an inch if you are using poly mounts, more if rubber.

[Gromit]

are you sure your trans is not shifted over a bit to one side? if you losten the engine mount bolts, you could possible have 1-2" inches of movement side to side. As I remember, the A-frame has slotted holes, you might be off toward the bracket a little too far.

edit: you could also grind a little clearance off the bracket, but your trans will move a bit when accelerating and shifting, better to get as much clearance as you can, at least 3/8 of an inch if you are using poly mounts, more if rubber.

6t8dart, I don't think this is a Trans / engine problem. the issue appears to be a the IRS pumpkin end of the drive shaft. my question is. was there enough clearance with the other yoke / drive shaft when it was bolted on? if so swap out the yokes. just an idea...

Chris AKA Gromit

[wareaglescott]

are you sure your trans is not shifted over a bit to one side? if you losten the engine mount bolts, you could possible have 1-2" inches of movement side to side. As I remember, the A-frame has slotted holes, you might be off toward the bracket a little too far.

edit: you could also grind a little clearance off the bracket, but your trans will move a bit when accelerating and shifting, better to get as much clearance as you can, at least 3/8 of an inch if you are using poly mounts, more if rubber.

I have the coyote installed and used the newly designed engine mount spacers that FFR designed to sandwich inside the engine mounts. They are solidly sitting correctly in the frame the best I can tell. When it went in it slid right into place very easily and was very solid with little movement before even installing the nuts onto the bolts. The last driveshaft fit perfectly fine without interference.
The transmission is closer to the passenger side of the transmission tunnel than the drivers side. It is my understanding that is normal though in these cars. The IRS and thus the driveshaft adapter mount plate are in a fixed position within the chassis. So for me to bolt up the driveshaft to the adapter it would have to be in the same fixed position no matter what the angle was anyways wouldn't it? I cant see that as the reason for the interference.

3/8" clearance may be more than the bracket will allow without destroying the mount location for the cables.

[Duke]

Yes, I had the same issue but mine wasn't touching. I took a grinder (Dremel) to the bracket to get about 3/4" clearance. Here's a before shot:

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/r454duke/Cobra/IMG_0144_1.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/r454duke/media/Cobra/IMG_0144_1.jpg.html)

[wareaglescott]

Yes, I had the same issue but mine wasn't touching. I took a grinder (Dremel) to the bracket to get about 3/4" clearance. Here's a before shot:

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/r454duke/Cobra/IMG_0144_1.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/r454duke/media/Cobra/IMG_0144_1.jpg.html)

Thanks Duke. Do your have an after shot by chance?

[edwardb]

I've heard about the e-brake bracket being close or interfering with the driveshaft on a couple builds. As far as I know, they were resolved by trimming the corner on the bracket. This one seems like the interference is more than I've seen before. The U-joint on the driveshaft pictured is clearly thicker than the previous one. But at least on mine I'm not sure that would have mattered. Mine was a little close maybe, but no interference. I'm not sure what to say about this one. Will be interested to hear what Factory Five says. Is it possible the bracket location is different? FWIW, here are two views of mine. One from the bottom which shows about where the bracket is in relation to the driveshaft. The second looking down into the transmission tunnel from the cockpit. This is the closest point. About 1/4 to 5/16 inch. Note this is the portion of the U-joint that's bolted to the center section. The other part of the joint has more clearance. I wouldn't mind a little more clearance for both, but pretty sure it won't be a problem.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0458_zpsgewzvkf5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0458_zpsgewzvkf5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0558_zpsvwbbzkyx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0558_zpsvwbbzkyx.jpg.html)

[wareaglescott]

I've heard about the e-brake bracket being close or interfering with the driveshaft on a couple builds. As far as I know, they were resolved by trimming the corner on the bracket. This one seems like the interference is more than I've seen before. The U-joint on the driveshaft pictured is clearly thicker than the previous one. But at least on mine I'm not sure that would have mattered. Mine was a little close maybe, but no interference. I'm not sure what to say about this one. Will be interested to hear what Factory Five says. Is it possible the bracket location is different? FWIW, here are two views of mine. One from the bottom which shows about where the bracket is in relation to the driveshaft. The second looking down into the transmission tunnel from the cockpit. This is the closest point. About 1/4 to 5/16 inch. Note this is the portion of the U-joint that's bolted to the center section. The other part of the joint has more clearance. I wouldn't mind a little more clearance for both, but pretty sure it won't be a problem.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0458_zpsgewzvkf5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0458_zpsgewzvkf5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0558_zpsvwbbzkyx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0558_zpsvwbbzkyx.jpg.html)

Thanks Paul.
FFR says that bracket is placed by hand and welded in so there is some variation. Their recommendation was to trim the bracket for clearance.
I guess my main question is how much clearance is sufficient. I guess I will do as much as I can without hurting the structural integrity of the portion holding the brake line.

[rich grsc]

You can take the whole corner off, all the way to the cable.

[GoDadGo]

I've had the same issue even though I am NOT running the IRS, but the MOSER TSD-500 solid axle instead.
That set up moves the pinion forward about 1.5" since it's a Dana 44 style case.
I cut the bracket off completely and routed the E-Brake cable under the rear end and made a bracket to support the cable and it worked well.

1. Could This Solution Solve The Problem On An IRS Car?
2. Would trimming the corner off give you enough clearance without having to move the cables?

[wareaglescott]

I've had the same issue even though I am NOT running the IRS, but the MOSER TSD-500 solid axle instead.
That set up moves the pinion forward about 1.5" since it's a Dana 44 style case.
I cut the bracket off completely and routed the E-Brake cable under the rear end and made a bracket to support the cable and it worked well.

1. Could This Solution Solve The Problem On An IRS Car?
2. Would trimming the corner off give you enough clearance without having to move the cables?

I trimmed the corner and it gave me the needed clearance. I will update my build thread with pictures later. Thanks for the suggestion though!

[GoDadGo]

Glad you didn't have to move the cables.
Also, try to make it down to Cruising The Coast.
It's the first week in October and Auburn isn't that far away.

[JRL16]

I had the same interference with my build TKO600/2015 IRS. Trimming off the corner of the bracket worked for me.