Coyote Vs other options.

[Misterfubar]

I'm sure this has been discussed plenty, and I've read quite a few posts on the topic but I'm looking for some fresh opinions. I'll be ordering my kit soon(maybe) and I need to be talked into(or out of) going withe a Coyote. My original plan and budget I had decided that IRS would be a better use of the price difference between using a 5.0 SBF vs a Coyote, but the more I look for engine and evaluate my budget I think I can still go with a Coyote. Used low mileage motors are a little cheaper and more plentiful than I had originally thought.

Basically I'm looking for a Pro/Cons list to help me decide.

I will be going with IRS either way as I've already got the donor parts I need out a low mile '15.

The wife wants power steering, so either motor choice I'll end up with that.

I may end up going with AC and have already looked into kits, just not sure if they'll fit with a Coyote. I know it's silly, but I found myself more likely to put the top down on hot days because I could blast the AC on my last 'vert so I'll also be more likely to drive the FF on hot days if I have AC. Call me spoiled. :D

Fuel injection is a must. As much as I'd love to pop the hood and see the big ol' oval Cobra air cleaner, it's 2016 and I just can't bring myself to put a carburetor on anything. I guess I could always go with any of the FI systems designed to replace a carb so my big air cleaner isn't totally off the table.

The car will likely end up seeing an occasional 1/4 mile and I might even get back into some SCCA stuff if I can find the time but that will never be the primary use of the car.

Thanks in advance for any helpful tips you take the time to type up for me.

[ram_g]

Some necessary background before one can formulate an intelligent response:
- Where do you live? Seasonality? Elevation and elevation change?
- What do you want to use the car for? Daily driver? Groceries? Weekend cruising? Car shows?

[Misterfubar]

Some necessary background before one can formulate an intelligent response:
- Where do you live? Seasonality? Elevation and elevation change?
- What do you want to use the car for? Daily driver? Groceries? Weekend cruising? Car shows?

Kansas city area. Elevation is 1000 feet +/- 150. Hot(ish)/humid summers. Potential for nasty cold winters. It'll be a 3 season car, It won't come out much in the winter time.

Car will be used as a weekend cruiser, with occasional spots of daily driver use and maybe a bit of track time once or twice a year. Car shows aren't likely to happen often.

[edwardb]

I've done two SBF builds and getting close to wrapping up a Coyote build. I can't give a full driving report on the Coyote yet. Only first impressions. A relatively simple 5.0 SBF build will be a solid runner and less money than the Coyote. But 100 HP or more down from the Coyote. A 5.0 SBF with enough performance mods and parts to approach the power output of the Coyote will easily be similar in cost. Can even be more. When compared apples to applies, that's where the real value of the Coyote shows through IMO. I don't consider the older tech 5.0 EFI or even any of the newer aftermarket EFI systems to be in the same league as the fully engineered OE Coyote design with all the bells and whistles like VVT, port EFI, 4 valves per cylinder, coil on plug, and the list goes on. The Coyote starts instantly and runs beautifully. I can't wait to do something more than putt around my neighborhood. The Coyote is big, but it does fit and with the recent changes doesn't give anything away in footspace. It loves to rev and makes great torque starting at fairly low RPM. It doesn't look or sound particularly authentic or old school. For some this is a deal breaker. But if that's not your concern, it's a hard option to rule out if you really compare them evenly.

[ram_g]

Kansas city area. Elevation is 1000 feet +/- 150. Hot(ish)/humid summers. Potential for nasty cold winters. It'll be a 3 season car, It won't come out much in the winter time.

Car will be used as a weekend cruiser, with occasional spots of daily driver use and maybe a bit of track time once or twice a year. Car shows aren't likely to happen often.

First statement suggests either a carb'd SBF or a Coyote to me, second statement leans more towards a Coyote. Basis that, sounds like either will work fine for you with a slight edge to the Coyote.

BTW I don't get the statement "it's 2016 so it must be FI". Why? I (and plenty of others) am perfectly content with my nicely running carb'd 302. Starts every time, idles fine, runs fine, probably uses more gas than a FI engine but since it's not my DD, so what...

[GoDadGo]

Have You Considered An LS Or Maybe A SBC?

Ponder for a while as to what you really want, then be very honest with yourself about your mechanical and fabrication abilities before you pull the trigger.
If you make your drivetrain decision based on facts, knowing what your abilities both technical and financial are, then your build will go well.
Make sure that if you do something that is not supported by Factory Five that you are able to pull it off with minimal support.
Just Do Your Homework First & Read, Read, Read The Manual Before You Order Your Kit!

Good Luck From The Dark Side!

[Dave Howard]

I have a 2012 crate Coyote in my MkIV. Here's my list of PROS after 30,000 kilometres. I tour in mine (last trip was 3750 k to London Ohio where I rodded the crap out of it), show it, Sunday drive it and take it to the grocery store every chance I get.

PROS
- comparing HP with pushrods engines (carb or EFI) the cost of the Coyote installed will run about the same if not cheaper.
- expect 450-500hp with no mechanical mods and a slight tweak to the tune.
- super strong 6 bolt mains bottom end. It'll take the power all day.
- nice smooth power at lower rpm makes it very easy to putt around the streets. Builds crazy power from 3500 revs to redline at 7,000. Better hold on tight and have the wheels pointed where you want to go.
- great fuel mileage on long cruises. Runs great on 87 pump gas. No need for those 93/94 pumps at the Chevron.
- runs just as good at sea level as it does at 4,000 feet.
- it is as close to plug and play as you're going to get. Install - wire - plumb - fire it up and it purrs at 900 revs right out of the cardboard box.
- FFR have engineered an install kit. The engine install and wiring are relatively easy. It fits /fills the engine bay. Coyotes are just as wide as FEs.
- 2 year warranty from Ford Racing.
- if you run into an issue you can't resolve, the Coyote is the stock engine in the GT Mustang. Go to your local Ford dealer for help.
- built in Canada eh.

CONS
- hmmmmm? ahhhhh? Need I say more?

[Misterfubar]

First statement suggests either a carb'd SBF or a Coyote to me, second statement leans more towards a Coyote. Basis that, sounds like either will work fine for you with a slight edge to the Coyote.

BTW I don't get the statement "it's 2016 so it must be FI". Why? I (and plenty of others) am perfectly content with my nicely running carb'd 302. Starts every time, idles fine, runs fine, probably uses more gas than a FI engine but since it's not my DD, so what...

Personal preference really. I like technology so I don't think I could be content with a carb'd smallblock. The last vehicle with a Carburetor I had was an International Scout and I converted it to FI.


I've done two SBF builds and getting close to wrapping up a Coyote build. I can't give a full driving report on the Coyote yet. Only first impressions. A relatively simple 5.0 SBF build will be a solid runner and less money than the Coyote. But 100 HP or more down from the Coyote. A 5.0 SBF with enough performance mods and parts to approach the power output of the Coyote will easily be similar in cost. Can even be more. When compared apples to applies, that's where the real value of the Coyote shows through IMO. I don't consider the older tech 5.0 EFI or even any of the newer aftermarket EFI systems to be in the same league as the fully engineered OE Coyote design with all the bells and whistles like VVT, port EFI, 4 valves per cylinder, coil on plug, and the list goes on. The Coyote starts instantly and runs beautifully. I can't wait to do something more than putt around my neighborhood. The Coyote is big, but it does fit and with the recent changes doesn't give anything away in footspace. It loves to rev and makes great torque starting at fairly low RPM. It doesn't look or sound particularly authentic or old school. For some this is a deal breaker. But if that's not your concern, it's a hard option to rule out if you really compare them evenly.

You just confirmed a lot of the reasons I had rattling around in my head to go with a Coyote. I'm not a muscle car guy(The Shelby Cobra being one of the few exceptions for me), so what it looks like under the hood, and the sound isn't that important to me. Don't get me wrong though, I want it to sound good when I mash the go pedal, but I can do without the lobey obnoxious idle. The biggest concern I had with going with a Coyote was the budget, and really that isn't that much of a concern for me not that I've looked into it a bit more. I'm not going to go all out and buy a brand new one from Ford, but a lower mileage take out of a newer Mustang and all the associated costs of getting it to run outside of it's original home are within my planned budget. The technology loving guy in me says going with the Coyote is a no-brainer, but the doesn't like to spend money guy in me was hesitant. Really glad to hear about the not losing footspace. Most of the builds I'd stumbled across were older ones and that was a concern.


Have You Considered An LS Or Maybe A SBC?

Ponder for a while as to what you really want, then be very honest with yourself about your mechanical and fabrication abilities before you pull the trigger.
If you make your drivetrain decision based on facts, knowing what your abilities both technical and financial are, then your build will go well.
Make sure that if you do something that is not supported by Factory Five that you are able to pull it off with minimal support.
Just Do Your Homework First & Read, Read, Read The Manual Before You Order Your Kit!

Good Luck From The Dark Side!

Hell, I'd love to do an Ecoboost or a Toyota UR motor but I understand my limitations and while I'm perfectly capable of working on or troubleshooting just about any newer motor, my fabrication skills are a bit lacking. I'll be sticking to the usual Ford choices.

[Misterfubar]

I have a 2012 crate Coyote in my MkIV. Here's my list of PROS after 30,000 kilometres. I tour in mine (last trip was 3750 k to London Ohio where I rodded the crap out of it), show it, Sunday drive it and take it to the grocery store every chance I get.

PROS
- comparing HP with pushrods engines (carb or EFI) the cost of the Coyote installed will run about the same if not cheaper.
- expect 450-500hp with no mechanical mods and a slight tweak to the tune.
- super strong 6 bolt mains bottom end. It'll take the power all day.
- nice smooth power at lower rpm makes it very easy to putt around the streets. Builds crazy power from 3500 revs to redline at 7,000. Better hold on tight and have the wheels pointed where you want to go.
- great fuel mileage on long cruises. Runs great on 87 pump gas. No need for those 93/94 pumps at the Chevron.
- runs just as good at sea level as it does at 4,000 feet.
- it is as close to plug and play as you're going to get. Install - wire - plumb - fire it up and it purrs at 900 revs right out of the cardboard box.
- FFR have engineered an install kit. The engine install and wiring are relatively easy. It fits /fills the engine bay. Coyotes are just as wide as FEs.
- 2 year warranty from Ford Racing.
- if you run into an issue you can't resolve, the Coyote is the stock engine in the GT Mustang. Go to your local Ford dealer for help.
- built in Canada eh.

CONS
- hmmmmm? ahhhhh? Need I say more?

Thanks. More confirmation. Is 30,000 kilometres a lot? I'm a dumb American and we're too stubborn to adopt a better system. :D

[BEAR-AvHistory]

All of the above speaking from only 4000 miles. If you need a rump rump 427 solid lifter idle for your aural pleasure, program it into the tune. Doing an olden day thing like getting up on the cam is just a push of the pedal away. Put it in a higher gear put down the pedal feel & hear the surge around 3300/3500RPM. In a lower gear its to quick to feel & to loud to hear the change.

4 season Daily Driver, registered for 1st auto cross, will do VIR track days & 1/4 mile runs. With 315 drag radials bring the revs up a bit quick off the clutch & the car just leaves. A light chirp & the 1 - 2 shift is coming up fast. Flexing neck muscles is a good plan.

CONS, finding new excuses to go to the store.:D

http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/850x566/80-boss302c_656c226d4b9714d9b86f12cc8466aee4db5cbabd. jpg

Wrong visuals if you are a purest.

[Dave Howard]

30,000k is 18,000 miles. Here's another one for ya. Gas mileage at 120 kph (72 mph) was 22 mpg(imperial). Simply, with the FFR supplied tank I can squeeze 5 hours between fill ups while touring.

Like Bear, I tried to dress up my Coyote with the BOSS 302 intake, installed the same K&N PVC breathers and ditched as must hose as possible. Hid wires, and plumbed with stainless braide. The only other bling I'd love to throw on would be a Whipple 2.9 supercharger.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/asset.php?fid=31508&uid=6427&d=1420689839

[edwardb]

You just confirmed a lot of the reasons I had rattling around in my head to go with a Coyote. I'm not a muscle car guy(The Shelby Cobra being one of the few exceptions for me), so what it looks like under the hood, and the sound isn't that important to me. Don't get me wrong though, I want it to sound good when I mash the go pedal, but I can do without the lobey obnoxious idle. The biggest concern I had with going with a Coyote was the budget, and really that isn't that much of a concern for me not that I've looked into it a bit more. I'm not going to go all out and buy a brand new one from Ford, but a lower mileage take out of a newer Mustang and all the associated costs of getting it to run outside of it's original home are within my planned budget. The technology loving guy in me says going with the Coyote is a no-brainer, but the doesn't like to spend money guy in me was hesitant. Really glad to hear about the not losing footspace. Most of the builds I'd stumbled across were older ones and that was a concern.

If you're going to get a used Coyote, just do your homework. I assume you know it's nearly impossible to make it run with the PCM out of the donor vehicle. The conservative option is to use the Ford crate motor controls pack that has everything necessary to make a manual shift Coyote motor go. Just be aware, if you aren't already, that there are two different versions of the Coyote. 2011-2014 is the first version. 2015-2017 is now an updated version. The older version is no longer sold as a crate motor, but I'm assuming the older version controls pack is still available. The current crate motor is the 2015-2017 version and uses a newly designed controls pack. Completely different harness, PCM, PDB, etc. The two versions are not compatible. You have to match the right controls pack with the right version of the Coyote. Just a heads up if you didn't know this already. There are aftermarket PCM options for the Coyote, but I personally know nothing about them and have seen just enough on the various forums to know that's above my pay grade. Good luck whatever you decide.

[KDubU]

I went SBF and the only reasons for me was old school look and simplicity. The Coyote is a great engine and you can't go wrong with but for me personally, it doesn't look right. Same as a LS but it is your car and it sounds to me that there is no reason for you not to go Coyote.

[Duke]

It's cheaper to do it once and do it right then having to redo it or venture into a second build.

[mikeinatlanta]

I'm not smart enough to make a heavy car fast, so for me it is all about the weight.

[Al_C]

When I was evaluating options, I asked a lot of people for their input. One of them was Tony at FFR. I said " Tony, I'm debating between a small block and a Coyote." He barely let me finish. "Go with the Coyote", he said. "You won't be disappointed." My engine is still sitting on a pallet; each step I take is a new adventure. Nevertheless, I have no regrets about my engine choice. I can't wait to get it installed and running. (I just need more time to work on the car!) Look at it this way: if you don't choose the Coyote path, you'll always wonder "what if..."

[cgundermann]

That's the beauty of these cars - you can build to what's near and dear to your heart. My wife wanted the Ford crate 427 and I debated between that and the Coyote. In the end, I wanted to build an EFI pushrod 5.0 with every go fast part I drooled over for years from the old 5.0 magazines - as I built up Fox body Mustangs. My next build will use a Coyote...really learning a lot (from guys like EdwardB) and I'm finding Ford's newer big mod motor looking good...if only Ford releases the Voodoo motor as a crate option...

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Coming slowly. Loaded Heads less cams are available for $5000MSRP a pair. A bit pricy when you can get a 435 Coyote for a bit more.

Almost there crate engine was shown at SEMA. Coyote 5.0 bottom end Voodoo top end. 500+HP. Forgot price.

[Avalanche325]

There is nothing wrong with a Coyote. There is nothing wrong with fuel injection. The Coyote is space challenged in the engine bay. It all works, but not fun to work on.

Just in case this is your reasoning: Don't think for a second that you don't need to tune EFI. Also, more of these cars have gone home on a flat bed due to EFI issues than carb issues.

The A/C that you can put in these cars is probably not going to give you the volume of air that you are thinking of. If you don't have a top on it, I don't think you will accomplish much. Also, as MikeinAtlanta said, you a packing on weight. One of the things that makes a Cobra what it is, is light weight. They are really a sports car, meant to go around turns. They are not really a muscle car. They get called that because they are American.

"It's 2016......." Not necessarily saying this is you. But, I do question when people really want a modern car and build a Cobra. It is not modern, and you can't really make it that way. My friend has a Coyote, supercharger, IRS, ABS, traction control, keyless start, ipad for a dashboard, high back seats, and it is still hot, loud, rough, and nasty. Make sure that this is what you REALLY want. Also, if you dream of cruising around with your wife, make sure that she understands what these cars are. My wife has about a 60 mile range, and would have a much better time in a 911. You don't want to be one of those guys that has a Cobra for 5 years and has 300 miles on it.

[2FAST4U]

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/attachments/all-cobra-talk/19228d1315755610-8-stack-fuel-injection-img_0826.jpg

[2FAST4U]

Or the 5.0 Coyote with stack injection
http://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/21/2013/04/jim-inglese-stack-injection-system-for-50-coyote.jpg

[Misterfubar]

If you're going to get a used Coyote, just do your homework. I assume you know it's nearly impossible to make it run with the PCM out of the donor vehicle. The conservative option is to use the Ford crate motor controls pack that has everything necessary to make a manual shift Coyote motor go. Just be aware, if you aren't already, that there are two different versions of the Coyote. 2011-2014 is the first version. 2015-2017 is now an updated version. The older version is no longer sold as a crate motor, but I'm assuming the older version controls pack is still available. The current crate motor is the 2015-2017 version and uses a newly designed controls pack. Completely different harness, PCM, PDB, etc. The two versions are not compatible. You have to match the right controls pack with the right version of the Coyote. Just a heads up if you didn't know this already. There are aftermarket PCM options for the Coyote, but I personally know nothing about them and have seen just enough on the various forums to know that's above my pay grade. Good luck whatever you decide.
I was aware of all of this, but I'm glad you posted it here for anyone else that might be reading. I've seen or heard of a few success stories using the donor PCM, but I'll be hitting the easy button and going with the Ford control pack for whatever version motor I end up with.

[Misterfubar]

It's cheaper to do it once and do it right then having to redo it or venture into a second build.


When I was evaluating options, I asked a lot of people for their input. One of them was Tony at FFR. I said " Tony, I'm debating between a small block and a Coyote." He barely let me finish. "Go with the Coyote", he said. "You won't be disappointed." My engine is still sitting on a pallet; each step I take is a new adventure. Nevertheless, I have no regrets about my engine choice. I can't wait to get it installed and running. (I just need more time to work on the car!) Look at it this way: if you don't choose the Coyote path, you'll always wonder "what if..."

I've definitely decided to go the Coyote route. It may mean I miss out on the current sale, but I'm ok with waiting a bit longer to build what I really want. The biggest reason I was considering going the SBF route was my hobby budget could afford it a bit sooner.

[Misterfubar]

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/attachments/all-cobra-talk/19228d1315755610-8-stack-fuel-injection-img_0826.jpg


Or the 5.0 Coyote with stack injection
http://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/21/2013/04/jim-inglese-stack-injection-system-for-50-coyote.jpg

Those are pretty, but I'm not even sure I could afford to look at the cost. :D

[Misterfubar]

All of the above speaking from only 4000 miles. If you need a rump rump 427 solid lifter idle for your aural pleasure, program it into the tune. Doing an olden day thing like getting up on the cam is just a push of the pedal away. Put it in a higher gear put down the pedal feel & hear the surge around 3300/3500RPM. In a lower gear its to quick to feel & to loud to hear the change.

4 season Daily Driver, registered for 1st auto cross, will do VIR track days & 1/4 mile runs. With 315 drag radials bring the revs up a bit quick off the clutch & the car just leaves. A light chirp & the 1 - 2 shift is coming up fast. Flexing neck muscles is a good plan.

CONS, finding new excuses to go to the store.:D

http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/850x566/80-boss302c_656c226d4b9714d9b86f12cc8466aee4db5cbabd. jpg

Wrong visuals if you are a purest.

That is beautiful to me so I guess I don't fall into the purest category.

[Misterfubar]

There is nothing wrong with a Coyote. There is nothing wrong with fuel injection. The Coyote is space challenged in the engine bay. It all works, but not fun to work on.

Just in case this is your reasoning: Don't think for a second that you don't need to tune EFI. Also, more of these cars have gone home on a flat bed due to EFI issues than carb issues.

The A/C that you can put in these cars is probably not going to give you the volume of air that you are thinking of. If you don't have a top on it, I don't think you will accomplish much. Also, as MikeinAtlanta said, you a packing on weight. One of the things that makes a Cobra what it is, is light weight. They are really a sports car, meant to go around turns. They are not really a muscle car. They get called that because they are American.

"It's 2016......." Not necessarily saying this is you. But, I do question when people really want a modern car and build a Cobra. It is not modern, and you can't really make it that way. My friend has a Coyote, supercharger, IRS, ABS, traction control, keyless start, ipad for a dashboard, high back seats, and it is still hot, loud, rough, and nasty. Make sure that this is what you REALLY want. Also, if you dream of cruising around with your wife, make sure that she understands what these cars are. My wife has about a 60 mile range, and would have a much better time in a 911. You don't want to be one of those guys that has a Cobra for 5 years and has 300 miles on it.

I appreciate the honest advice. I can see where my posts would lead you to think I'm wanting to build a modern car that just looks like a Cobra, but I don't. I want the loud, rough and nasty, but if I can have all that with just a slight bit more comfort I'm going to.

[GoDadGo]

The LS-3 can be mounted to the existing Factory Five mounts so fabrication is minimal.
That platform is lighter, creates more power and has a smaller footprint than the Coyote.
PACE Performance has all sorts of LS configurations and they are reasonably priced.
Can't Hurt To Look!

[cgundermann]

GoDadGo = GoChevGo:cool:

[GoDadGo]

GoDadGo = GoChevGo:cool:

If my car wasn't such a budget build an LS would have been sitting between the frame rails instead of a 383 SBC.
Those Engines Are Insane!

[Avalanche325]

I appreciate the honest advice. I can see where my posts would lead you to think I'm wanting to build a modern car that just looks like a Cobra, but I don't. I want the loud, rough and nasty, but if I can have all that with just a slight bit more comfort I'm going to.

Well, Sir, you have come to the right place!

[Hottrodder427]

I built an Fe, I went old school. But the coyote sounds like a fun engine

[1932]

I went with coyote and t56 mag in the 33. That way i got done with budget real fast and on to other parts wanted and needed !

[BigRed]

I too like the pic from Bear. That is exactly what I want in my cobra when I get it. Hopefully pretty soon!!

[cgundermann]

Agreed GoDadGo - just watched "How It's Made Dream Cars; Ultima" and they had some nasty LS options...one over 1000 HP...

[GoDadGo]

The LS-3 with the front drive distributor and carb set up really could give a Ford Look if you found some generic valve covers.
At 550 HP, that's a dog walker for sure since it's an all aluminum mill!
Just make sure to install the battery up front to weight things down a bit.

http://paceperformance.com/i-23842416

[2bking]

The LS-3 with the front drive distributor and carb set up really could give a Ford Look if you found some generic valve covers.
At 550 HP, that's a dog walker for sure since it's an all aluminum mill!
Just make sure to install the battery up front to weight things down a bit.

http://paceperformance.com/i-23842416
The LS-3 is a 6.2L engine and weights a bit more than the Coyote (466 lbs vs 444 lbs). In factory trim it is advertised at 430 hp at 5900 RPM. Since it is a larger displacement it is not exactly apples to apples comparison to the Coyote. There are other Ford engines that can deliver similar performance to the LS-3 and keep your roadster in the Ford family.

[GoDadGo]

Just not a fan of the Coyote Motor because it leaves no room under the hood, so that's why suggested the LS Option with the Front Drive Distributot because they are different.
At Camp GoDadGo, the 383-SBC with ZF-Trans was the only way that I could have the 3-Link Rear and a 6-Speed Transmission so off the grid I went.
Since my daily driver has 6 gears, and I use them all to the best of my ability, my MK-4 wouldn't have made me happy with only 5.
My goal was to show OTHER OPTIONS as the string requested.

[Hottrodder427]

Godadgo, wanna come over and take a ride around the block in the Fe powered go cart?

[GoDadGo]

Godadgo, wanna come over and take a ride around the block in the Fe powered go cart?

Heck Yes!

When?

Tomorrow Or Tonight?

[Misterfubar]

So what's a good transmission to use behind a Coyote? I see that the Getrag MT82 that will be behind just about any used motor I find will need a custom driveshaft and a little bit of work to install the shifter. Is there another good option that won't murder my budget?

[Hottrodder427]

I'll call you this afternoon I have an early day

[edwardb]

So what's a good transmission to use behind a Coyote? I see that the Getrag MT82 that will be behind just about any used motor I find will need a custom driveshaft and a little bit of work to install the shifter. Is there another good option that won't murder my budget?

The Getrag MT82 was discussed quite a bit on the other forum. Here are two threads: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/487153-pulled-coyote-engines-transmissions-what-look.html and http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/536673-coyote-mt-82-six-speed.html. The short answer is not many builds using the MT82. Numerous quality and performance concerns (check the Mustang forums), not real strong, and external shift linkage requires custom fabrication. The most common transmissions used with the Coyote are either the TKO500 or 600, with the TKO600 the more common from what I've seen. The T56 Magnum XL is another option, but even more of a budget buster than the TKO. http://www.tremec.com/menu.php?m=105

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Lot of TKO 500-600's in use. FFR Drive shaft fits, shifter falls where you expect it too. Pricy but maybe a good used or rebuildable unit can be found. High torque capacity will handle any mission creep that takes place with the engine.

[Misterfubar]

Thanks for the threads. The TKOs don't seem too unreasonable. I've been doing a ton of reading, but I need to start taking some notes since I forget half of what I read. I'm now tossing around the idea of using a truck 5.0 since they can be found with hardly any miles for half the price or less. Plenty of low mileage motors out there for around 3k or less. That would really open up the budget for whatever transmission I'd want. I know I'd be losing out on a little bit of power, and I do know the differences between the truck and the GT motors, but I don't know if it really matters for my build. If I was going for major power with the motor all the same parts would be swapped out anyway.

I still have a lot of decisions to make.


The Getrag MT82 was discussed quite a bit on the other forum. Here are two threads: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/487153-pulled-coyote-engines-transmissions-what-look.html and http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/536673-coyote-mt-82-six-speed.html. The short answer is not many builds using the MT82. Numerous quality and performance concerns (check the Mustang forums), not real strong, and external shift linkage requires custom fabrication. The most common transmissions used with the Coyote are either the TKO500 or 600, with the TKO600 the more common from what I've seen. The T56 Magnum XL is another option, but even more of a budget buster than the TKO. http://www.tremec.com/menu.php?m=105

[Yama-Bro]

I haven't built mine yet, but I'm in the planning stages. I considered the coyote early on, but now I've settled on a 302 based SBF. I'm going with it because of the simplicity of install and maintenance, and the more classic/vintage looks. I'm also planning on fuel injection and power steering. No AC, but that would be easy to add, since there's plenty of room. One thing that makes me leery on the coyote, is that it looks cool under the hood right now, but in 5 or 10 years after the next Ford engine comes out and everyone starts putting those in factory fives...will the coyote still be desirable? That's why I'm going the more classic route. The classic small block will always look right under the hood of these cars. I'm looking at these from BluePrint Engines. They are mated to a TKO tranny. Ready to drop in and a great warranty.

http://factoryfiveengines.com/blueprint-engines-factory-five-engines/blueprint-engines-mk4-roadster-engines/blueprint-engines-ford-306-fuel-injected

[ram_g]

One thing that makes me leery on the coyote, is that it looks cool under the hood right now, but in 5 or 10 years after the next Ford engine comes out and everyone starts putting those in factory fives...will the coyote still be desirable?

When I first joined the ffcars community in 2008, the hot motors that everybody was lusting over were the DOHC 4.6s, with lots of discussion on which model years and donor cars were the best. Now today, when was the last time you heard of someone using a DOHC 4.6? Meanwhile the number of SBF builds has remained constant (or so it seems).

Not knocking the Coyotes - they're a great option for sure, but in my current VERY early sketchy plans for a next FFR build, I'm still thinking my base case will remain a SBF. Heck I might even take the GoDadGo route and try a SBC...

[BEAR-AvHistory]

http://factoryfiveengines.com/blueprint-engines-factory-five-engines/blueprint-engines-mk4-roadster-engines/blueprint-engines-ford-306-fuel-injected

Engine looks very traditional but was surprised that this engine/trans package cost more than a COYOTE/TKO-600

[GoDadGo]

Heck I might even take the GoDadGo route and try a SBC...

You can buy a low mileage C-4 Corvette for the driveline with either the L-98, LT-1 or LT-4 with ZF-6-Speed. (Model Year 1989-1996)
Those cars are a dime a dozen and unlike yours truly, most Corvette guys don't drive these cars very often and tend to take care of them.
In addition, the 2nd Gen LT-1 can be converted to a rear drive distributor and carburetor, but manifold choices are very few.
Check out Randy Jones' website to because he's got the motor mount locations spot on if you want to put a SBC or 2nd-Gen in a MK-4.
Use a .75 master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch if you use the ZF-S6-40 transmission.

Randy's website is: www.gpsconnection.com