Clutch cable help/advice

[RickP]

I'm running the Wilwood pedal box assembly which includes a clutch cable. Today I figured I would button up the installation of the clutch. I've got the cable routed and attached to the clutch fork through the 302 bell housing cable hole. My question is this clutch cable "adjustable" at the firewall? I have about another inch of thread left at the fork and the cable most definitely needs to have the slack taken out just for initial mock up.

I followed the Wilwood instructions to the letter and it makes no mention of a firewall adjuster even though the part description on the FFR website says it includes it.

"
This is the same Wilwood Pedalbox assembly that we include with a complete kit Mk4 Roadster. *This kit can be used to upgrade/replace your existing Mustang pedalbox in a Mk4 Roadster kit. *The pedalbox features a 3/4" front & 5/8" rear bore master cylinders linked with a balance bar for brake bias adjustment and forged pedals. *A stainless steel reservoir with lines and fittings is included, along with all mounting brackets and hardware. *All parts for a cable clutch system (quadrant, firewall adjuster, cable, hardware) are also included, but the pedalbox could also accept a 3rd master cylinder for use with a hydraulic clutch system if necessary.
"

Am I missing something? Originally I thought the cable end itself would adjust based on the wings built in but it does not budge.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57775&d=1471963621

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57774&d=1471963619

[RickP]

I believe I have my answer in that the cable is only adjustable from underneath the car and if I want it adjustable from the firewall I need to obtain a firewall cable adjuster.

[HB_Ryan]

I took out the slack in mine at the bell housing

[RickP]

I took out the slack in mine at the bell housing

are you running the Wilwood pedals with the new clutch quadrant?

[HB_Ryan]

Yes I'm running Wilwood pedals with the new clutch quadrant. I also have a 302 engine. I made a few adjustments at the bell housing and I did take up a lot of slack for the clutch to engage.

[RickP]

Yes I'm running Wilwood pedals with the new clutch quadrant. I also have a 302 engine. I made a few adjustments at the bell housing and I did take up a lot of slack for the clutch to engage.

same setup as me. I did order a cable adjuster from Summit but I'm going to see how much slack I can take up. I'm fairly certain I will run out of threads but only way to find out is to try.

[AC Bill]

same setup as me. I did order a cable adjuster from Summit but I'm going to see how much slack I can take up. I'm fairly certain I will run out of threads but only way to find out is to try.

If that is a concern, can you not fashion a spacer to go between the cable housing end, and the adjuster, to move the cable housing out further? I think the OEM Mustang cables had a black rubber spacer in that area. Perhaps someone has one kicking around that you could get?

Here's the stock Ford cable..

https://cfc7329ad537523a5de1-b21544d490ba797ec9de9d17e947de3d.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.c om/lrs-7553g_1451.jpg

[RickP]

If that is a concern, can you not fashion a spacer to go between the cable housing end, and the adjuster, to move the cable housing out further? I think the OEM Mustang cables had a black rubber spacer in that area. Perhaps someone has one kicking around that you could get?

Here's the stock Ford cable..

https://cfc7329ad537523a5de1-b21544d490ba797ec9de9d17e947de3d.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.c om/lrs-7553g_1451.jpg

Now that's an idea I wouldn't of thought of. I believe that's something I can easily achieve. Thank you very much.

[RickP]

Whelp, just figured out my issue, it's nothing to do with the cable or it's adjustment, it's the fact that the clutch fork is no longer sitting on the ball. Not sure what happened when I married the tranny to the motor but nonetheless, it has to be fixed and I'm not to thrilled with the prospect of what needs to be done. Doesn't look like near enough clearance to get the tranny out while the motor is in.

[RickP]

Is it possible to pull the tranny/Bell Housing in an MK4 without removing the motor?

[RickP]

Is it possible to pull the tranny/Bell Housing in an MK4 without removing the motor?

Bump

[AC Bill]

I guess there is no way to lever the arm back onto the ball pivot ball, without pulling the tranny, and bell-housing ? It must have a broken clip or it was jarred off when installing it. If you remove the cable, you should be able to move it around, but how you could get the clip to slide over the ball pivot might be a real trick..

I have read some posts of a few people who have pulled the tranny out, with the engine still in the car. It is altogether possible. Having use of a car lift, and a tranny jack would make a huge difference to the ease of the job. There are a few threads about the procedure on the FFCars forum. Be worth reading through a few of them, to get an idea of just what's involved. Just use the search function, for tranny removal, or pulling tranny, etc.

Lying under the car, wrestling it out, has also been done before, but it doesn't sound like any fun..you can't simply un-bolt and drop it. There is this wiggling it back some before turning the tranny to one side, then further wiggling, before it drops out. That's all after you disconnect everything, take off the tranny frame mount drain the tranny, pull the driveshaft and remove the shifter. Then comes the bellhousing, which also means removing the starter, etc.

[wallace18]

Is it possible to pull the tranny/Bell Housing in an MK4 without removing the motor?

I can with a T-5. Not sure about other transmissions.

[RickP]

I guess there is no way to lever the arm back onto the ball pivot ball, without pulling the tranny, and bell-housing ? It must have a broken clip or it was jarred off when installing it. If you remove the cable, you should be able to move it around, but how you could get the clip to slide over the ball pivot might be a real trick..

I have read some posts of a few people who have pulled the tranny out, with the engine still in the car. It is altogether possible. Having use of a car lift, and a tranny jack would make a huge difference to the ease of the job. There are a few threads about the procedure on the FFCars forum. Be worth reading through a few of them, to get an idea of just what's involved. Just use the search function, for tranny removal, or pulling tranny, etc.

Lying under the car, wrestling it out, has also been done before, but it doesn't sound like any fun..you can't simply un-bolt and drop it. There is this wiggling it back some before turning the tranny to one side, then further wiggling, before it drops out. That's all after you disconnect everything, take off the tranny frame mount drain the tranny, pull the driveshaft and remove the shifter. Then comes the bellhousing, which also means removing the starter, etc.

I spent quite some time trying to get the fork to seat on the ball. It's very difficult to do. Can't really see the clips because the input shaft is in the way. I gave up after awhile and started searching the forums. Luckily a buddy of mine volunteered to help me resolve the issue and "get er done". Based on the other forum, pulling the tranny, bell housing is possible but like you said, looks to be very difficult. Might just save time and aggravation by yanking the entire assembly.

This time around, I am goin to mate the tranny to bell housing first, then mate the bell housing to the motor. It must of popped off when I attached the tranny to the motor/bell housing and I just plain flat out did not notice. Lesson learned. A hard lesson.

[karlos]

This time around, I am goin to mate the tranny to bell housing first, then mate the bell housing to the motor. It must of popped off when I attached the tranny to the motor/bell housing and I just plain flat out did not notice. Lesson learned. A hard lesson.

I wonder if it won't fight you even more this way. Reason being that if you try to install the mated transmission/bellhousing you'll end up having to align two near-interference fits at once: the pilot bearing on the input shaft and the alignment dowels on the bellhousing. The bellhousing will need to be nearly dead-nuts aligned with the centerline of the crankshaft in order for this to work. Might be ok if you checked the alignment of the bellhousing beforehand with a dial indicator and reduced the misalignment to near zero. Otherwise the input shaft and the bellhousing dowel pins will fight each other.

I'd give the traditional route one more chance, making sure the transmission is straight side-to-side and level top-to-bottom. Go slowly and monitor what's happening through the clutch fork opening in the bellhousing. Once the input shaft collar engages the throwout bearing there should be no tendency for the fork to come off the ball. You can work the clutch fork back and forth as you go to confirm proper engagement. Might also be a good idea to double check the installation of the throwout bearing on the clutch fork. Pretty easy to install the bearing on the little spring clip incorrectly, in which case the throwout bearing can't pivot freely on the fork .

Hope you get it straightened out without too many more grey hairs...

YES
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57975&d=1472439090


NO
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57976&d=1472439090

[edwardb]

I'd give the traditional route one more chance, making sure the transmission is straight side-to-side and level top-to-bottom. Go slowly and monitor what's happening through the clutch fork opening in the bellhousing. Once the input shaft collar engages the throwout bearing there should be no tendency for the fork to come off the ball. You can work the clutch fork back and forth as you go to confirm proper engagement. Might also be a good idea to double check the installation of the throwout bearing on the clutch fork. Pretty easy to install the bearing on the little spring clip incorrectly, in which case the throwout bearing can't pivot freely on the fork .

I agree 100% with Karlos. Installing the mated bell and trans onto the engine would be harder than than the other way around. Just check your work carefully as you go. It should be pretty easy to tell if the pivot gets unhooked or the TOB isn't aligning properly once you slide the transmission in.

[RickP]

It was a busy day for sure. My buddy arrived at 8:00am sharp and we were at it shorty thereafter. We opted to pull the engine assembly out in one shot and rectify the clutch issue outside of the car. In the end, I'm so glad we made this choice instead of trying to solve this problem from under the car. The issue turned out to be twofold. The fork was definitely off the ball and the throw out bearing itself wasn't traveling up and down the input shaft correctly. It was getting hung up on the input shaft right at the splines. I either boogered it up when installing it or it was boogered from the start (one of those self aligning jobs). Being a first time engine builder, I just didn't have a reference of what was correct, and what was not. Off to the parts store and thankfully they had one in stock. We installed the new TOB/fork combo, and new stud ball, and mated the tranny to the bell housing, then used the alignment pins to mate the bell housing/tranny combo to the motor. Re-installed engine assembly. Woof!

We worked until I was whole again by mounting the tranny to the A-frame, drive shaft, and installed the clutch cable. Butter smooth to boot. We had some day left at this point so we decided to address testing out the electrical system and rectified a few gremlins there. A full day for sure. 13 hours straight. But I am back in business and I couldn't of done it without my buddy.

[Norm B]

Great to hear. Good friends that are handy are priceless!

Norm

[RickP]

Great to hear. Good friends that are handy are priceless!

Norm

you can say that again........