Just dyno'd new motor...

[aarvig]

Ok, this is definitely going to sound stupid to some, but I am going to ask it. I ordered a 427w from a very reputable builder and the build sheet showed 560hp/560tq. I knew that was over kill by probably 75-80 horse but I was OK with that. The builder called me up today and said they just dyno'd the build at 607hp and 585 ft/lbs or torque at 5800 rpm! The builder said he was as surprised by the power levels as I was. While horsepower is definitely great...I'm concerned that this may be way to much of a good thing. I know I will just have to not slam on the gas pedal but is this going to limit my enjoyement of the car? What about safety? Do you know anyone running 600hp in one of these?

[Bob Cowan]

Remember, it only makes 600 hp when you want it to. If you're worried about it, build in a throttle stop.

I suspect that after 1-2 years, you'll remove it.

[CraigS]

Or you could go to a 2 bbl carb. I would pay attention to your throttle linkage. Instead of a cable, go solid w/ the levers that have multiple holes or slots. That way you can adjust the ratio to get less carb movement for a given pedal movement. This will allow more precise control of the 600 horses. I would also be very particular about tires. you need traction. Drag radials help but I don't feel they are a good idea unless you run them on all four wheels. From the point of view of braking, the last thing an FFR needs is less front traction.

[j.miller]

Here's the deal. 600 HP sounds great in conversation but in order to get 600 hp on a carbureted engine you have to give something up...."bottom end" drivability at sub 2500rpm can get temperamental at best. On the track, a blast to drive but stoplights, intersections, left turn lanes and stop-n-go traffic...not so much fun. Given the choice of 600 or 350hp for street and a little track driving, I'll take 350hp all day long. You might ask your builder about a cam with less lift and duration. It will drop the hp but put the bottom end back in...da Bat

[Plebeian]

A hp peak at 5800 rpm sounds like a very reasonably cammed engine, I would normally expect the engine to be spun higher than that for that hp (flywheel) in a normally aspirated application. The big question is whether it will have bucking issues at lower rpm's. As far as power goes, 600 engine hp may be 500 (or less) rwhp depending upon your exhaust and type of chassis dyno it is put on. IMO, that is very streetable if your car is set up correctly including proper gearing and tires. Quite a few of us run that and more on the street. If you feel it is more power than you are comfortable with, just adjust your throttle linkage back. Cheers.

[aarvig]

That's what I thought about the cam to. It does peak at 5800. It has a peak at 2900 for TQ of about 515, gives up about 10 ft/lbs of TQ to 3300 then climbs to its next peak TQ (585 ft/lbs) at 4700 rpms. The HP peaks at 5800. Seems like a more street performance cam. The cam profile is:.544"/.573" lift 238/248 duration @ .050". Engine is 10.2:1 compression. What are your thoughts?

[GoDadGo]

Your next stop should be your local drag strip.
Just Eeeeeeease into that "Geaux" pedal along your trip down the 1,320!
Have a great day Yall, we're off to Cars & Coffee at N.O.L.A. Motorsports Park!

PS: Geaux is how we spell Go if you live South of Interstate 10.

[Plebeian]

That's what I thought about the cam to. It does peak at 5800. It has a peak at 2900 for TQ of about 515, gives up about 10 ft/lbs of TQ to 3300 then climbs to its next peak TQ (585 ft/lbs) at 4700 rpms. The HP peaks at 5800. Seems like a more street performance cam. The cam profile is:.544"/.573" lift 238/248 duration @ .050". Engine is 10.2:1 compression. What are your thoughts?

The only concern I would have is the lower rpm driveability which your engine builder should be able to answer for you. I'd say drive it and see how you like it. These cars are a little quirky with the short wheel base, give yourself time to get used to it, and enjoy the journey. Cheers.

[Avalanche325]

I have more lift on a smaller engine (347), so more radical. I did run into some bucking at 30 - 40 mph cruising. I have been able to tune that out by running a little rich on the T-slots. The only thing I have to watch, is driving too calmly while it is coming completely up to temp. I would do that with my wife in the car, and it would backfire out of the pipes (Yes, really after-fire, but who really says that), which sort of defeated the purpose. Nice and calm.......BANG!! I think you will be OK with more cubes.

As far as the power goes, like everyone said, it will only make that power at WOT and 5800rpms. I would NOT hit the drag strip, there are hard concrete walls if it goes bad. I recommend doing a couple autocrosses. That way you can see what that power will do, and at worst, knock over some cones. You will learn to control and be able to use that power.

You want very good ultra performance tires! Traction is a safety item on these cars. Just watch some Youtube videos of "supercar idiots". That will calm you right down. Respect the car and you will enjoy it.

[Olli]

I have a 416W that dynoed 563HP @ 6000 and 540 lb ft @ 4300. It is very drivable. What is important is your rear gear choice. I have 3.27 and it's great. You simply don't need more gear than that with all that torque. Your sig. states that you have 3.50 gears. You might want to re-think that.

Olli

[Bob Cowan]

I have a 416W that dynoed 563HP @ 6000 and 540 lb ft @ 4300. It is very drivable. What is important is your rear gear choice. I have 3.27 and it's great. You simply don't need more gear than that with all that torque. Your sig. states that you have 3.50 gears. You might want to re-think that.

Olli

I would certainly not agree with that. I'v been using 3.55 gears since the original build. Last year I switched to a 3.27 gear. I think this year I'll switch back to a 3.55, or maybe even a 3.73.

[rickster]

I suspect it is not revving higher because of the shorter rod ratio needed to get a Windsor up to 427 ci?

The cam you spec'd doesn't sound like a ball buster to me, I think the HP #'s are high mostly because of the displacement.

Place a safety stop on the go pedal until you want more. Just make SURE that there is no binding in the throttle linkage due to your modifying it! You really don't want to go full beast and stay there.

Rick

[Avalanche325]

Don't forget that gearing also depends on the transmission.