Changing Coyote oil pan ?

[wareaglescott]

This is all new to me. I have the recommended Moroso oil pan and oil pickup for my coyote motor. What do I need to know about changing it out after I drain the oil? Is it just bolt out/ bolt in? Is there a gasket or some sort of sealant I need to apply to prevent leaks? Is there a torque specification on the bolts?

Also I know which oil filter I need and the shorter adapter piece to make it fit. Is it correct I cant get the oil filter on until after the engine is in the car? So I need to leave it off and have no oil in the motor from the time I change the oil pan until the final install in the car?

Thanks

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I had my engine on the stand & let the oil drain out over night.

I rotated the engine upside down. The oil pan is a straight bolt off - bolt on reusing the same gasket/windage tray that it came with. 89lbs-in + 45*turn.

Check the MOROSO pan to be sure that it has a slot in the upper floor for the dipstick to reach down into the oil holding sump section. Some original pans did not have the slot. If you don't have a slot contact MOROSO & they will send you a fresh piece with the slot free of charge.

Check that any trap doors in the pan are free to move.

The bolts that attach the oil pickup to the block can be difficult to hold onto when replacing them. Be very careful so they do not drop into the engine. If you are unsure of yourself rotate the engine right side up on the engine stand & do the oil pickup swap from the bottom. Rotate the engine upside down again & install the pan.

The new COYOTE has an oil cooler thingy at the filter boss. You need to remove this since it will not fit in the chassis. The Cadillac-V/Corvette MOBIL-1 M1-113 oil filter fits & can be on when you load the engine into the car.

Had 6 quarts in the pan. Put the last two in under pressure right before the first start to pre-lube the engine.

My engine was fully dressed when I installed it, oil filter, alternator, shorty headers, belts, starter, transmission & mounts. Took 20 minutes to install over the front with a 2 ton lift extended to the 1.5 ton mark. Only trick is getting the transmission tail shaft down far enough to have the square sections on the trans where the stick mounts to slide under the square tube at the top of the tunnel framing. Had my daughter put her foot on the tail shaft to press it down.

[wareaglescott]

I had my engine on the stand & let the oil drain out over night.

I rotated the engine upside down. The oil pan is a straight bolt off - bolt on reusing the same gasket/windage tray that it came with. 89lls-in + 45*turn.

Check the MOROSO pan to be sure that it has a slot in the upper floor for the dipstick to reach down into the oil holding sump section. Some original pans did not have the slot. If you don't have a slot contact MOROSO & they will send you a fresh piece with the slot free of charge.

Check that any trap doors in the pan are free to move.

The bolts that attach the oil pickup to the block can be difficult to hold onto when replacing them. Be very careful so they do not drop into the engine. If you are unsure of yourself rotate the engine right side up on the engine stand & do the oil pickup swap from the bottom. Rotate the engine upside down again & install the pan.

The new COYOTE has an oil cooler thingy at the filter boss. You need to remove this since it will not fit in the chassis. The Cadillac-V/Corvette MOBIL-1 M1-113 oil filter fits & can be on when you load the engine into the car.

Had 6 quarts in the pan. Put the last two in under pressure right before the first start to pre-lube the engine.

My engine was fully dressed when I installed it, oil filter, alternator, shorty headers, belts, starter, transmission & mounts. Took 20 minutes to install over the front with a 2 ton lift extended to the 1.5 ton mark. Only trick is getting the transmission tail shaft down far enough to have the square sections on the trans where the stick mounts to slide under the square tube at the top of the tunnel framing. Had my daughter put her foot on the tail shaft to press it down.

Thanks Kevin. Good info.
What does 89lls-in + 45*turn mean please?

I have an engine cradle I am going to sit it in when done. I do not have a stand to rotate it upside down. Is it feasible to change the pan and pickup while it hangs from the hoist?

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Yes on the hoist, you will need someone to hold the engine steady when you torque the bolts. Engine stand is just easier. :D

89lbin + 45* turn. Use a pound inch torque wrench set to 89. Once you hit the torque, I use click wrenches, you turn the bolt an additional 45 degrees. * is used as a "degree" indicator on a limited keyboard.

EDIT: Torque numbers for the new COYOTE

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6007-A50NA.pdf

[edwardb]

Just to add a few comments to Kevin's. The crate motor comes pre-filled with oil. Catch it in a clean container and use it again. The Moroso pan will add a couple quarts to the capacity. The Mobil 1 filter is highly rated and low profile. But as I showed in my build thread, it's the same height as the stock filter Ford uses now on the 2015 Mustang. Apparently they switched to a lower profile because of the integrated oil cooler, which needs to be removed because it interferes with the frame. As stated, the engine can be installed with the oil filter in place. I chose to install the engine without oil and add once it was in. You can't put lube in the TKO until it's installed (unless you want it running out the tailshaft as you tip it in...). You can't put antifreeze in until the engine is installed. I just did all the fluids at once.

Regarding the Moroso pan and the issue with the dip stick. That was a couple years ago and by all accounts Moroso is shipping them with the added slot. Mine had it. But as I showed in my build thread, even with the slot there's still the possibility of interference. Something to look at.

[wareaglescott]

Great thanks!

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Regarding the Moroso pan and the issue with the dip stick. That was a couple years ago and by all accounts Moroso is shipping them with the added slot. Mine had it. But as I showed in my build thread, even with the slot there's still the possibility of interference. Something to look at.

Good point. My dipstick has a natural curve to one side. It will only go in one way. Yellow pull loop at the top is parallel to the cars centerline. If the curve is to the wrong side it will miss the slot. Be gentle when you put the stick in for the first time & if you feel any resistance take it out & flip it over.

If that does not work slot needs to be enlarged. Since your pan is not installed you can remove the piece with the slot & do a just in case enlargement with a dye grinder or similar tool Dremel? Be sure to take it off to work on so no metal waste gets into the lower pan.

Oil capacity is 8qts & stick may or may not be calibrated for it. A good plan is to put in the 8qts & pull the stick after the first run to be sure the oil is fully circulated. Mark the stick if the oil level does not fall into the "full" zine.

[grluisi150]

Don't forget the O-ring for the pickup tube, and some people have had interference issues with the engine block when installing one of the pickup tube bolts. Nothing a dremel and shop Vac can't solve

[edwardb]

This is the picture I posted in my build thread. The Moroso pan had the slot, but it goes across one of the baffles underneath. That's right where my dipstick went. I confirmed with some plumber's putty. Flipping the dipstick didn't help. It hit within 1/4-inch either way. I trimmed the interference with a die grinder. Couple minutes to trim. A lot longer to make sure it was clean.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_1617_zps6ws9u2sf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_1617_zps6ws9u2sf.jpg.html)