2015 Coyote clutch safety switches

[wareaglescott]

Just curious how people are handling the 2 clutch safety switches on the 2015 coyote with a hydraulic clutch?
EdwardB has a great solution in his build thread post #250. I have done the lower one as he did. Most likely plan to follow suit on the other switch. Just wondering if there are any other options? I was going to start today and realized my kit did not contain the brackets/pieces listed on pg 76-79 of the latest coyote installation instructions. (those are used with a clutch cable so the instructions do not apply) I thought I would start with those pieces and modify if possible vs completely fabricating new pieces like Paul did because I am inexperienced with fabricating parts. Now that I am waiting for FFR to send me those pieces I should have a few days to think it over.

[Duke]

I ran two brake light switches on the clutch similar to the brake light. See my build thread. Super simple and easy. BTW, you don't need two. You can do only one and wire them together. Wire both black lines together, then both color lines together. I confirmed twice with Ford racing that this was fine. FFR has new brackets out but they are for the manual cable clutch. The new 2015 coyote instructions they put out last month show how to install them.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/r454duke/Cobra/IMG_0132.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/r454duke/media/Cobra/IMG_0132.jpg.html)

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Only had one, cable pull on clutch. At the risk of being shunned, just connected the two wires together. Spent most of my driving life without a clutch interlock.:) Muscle memory puts it in neutral & floors the pedal.

Think if you grew up with one in the car you should hook it up. Would use one switch for all wires to localize any fail points.

[edwardb]

For the 2015 Coyote (important to be clear that's what we're talking about here) the lower clutch switch is a safety interlock. The PCM won't trigger the start sequence without the switch closed. I've confirmed that with my 2015 Coyote. The upper clutch switch is part of the solution to prevent stalling like the 2011-2014 Coyote experienced. I confirmed this with Ford engineering via Ford Racing tech support when I initially received my crate motor and controls pack. The question was whether I needed the speed dial module like used with the 2011-2014 Coyote, and this was the answer they provided several days later after checking with engineering. I've been able to confirm this from a couple other sources, and based on my go kart drives, doesn't appear to be a stalling issue.

Conclusions from my side? (1) If using a cable on the clutch with the FF modified quadrant on the Wilwood box, get the newly designed switch mounting brackets from FF and use the supplied Ford switches and harness connections. Looks like a nice solution and the switches will function exactly as Ford designed. Not sure how easy it would be to use the new FF switch brackets without the cable quadrant. (2) Personally, I want the clutch interlock safety at the bottom of the clutch pedal throw. Putting the lower switch at the top will not give the same level of safety IMO. I have the standard FF/RF harness setup on my Mk4 #7750, with the interlock safety switch at the top of the clutch throw. But I've never really like it. There's some measure of safety that the clutch pedal at least has to be pushed for the engine to start. But it's not the same as fully released all the way down like it was on my Mk3 with the Mustang pedal box. So I welcomed being able to wire the new build and the Coyote harness with the switch at the bottom. It's obviously a matter of personal choice. I respect everyone's choice on this. But I know what mine is. (3) Also for me personally, I would be skeptical of putting the two switch wires on a common switch. First it doesn't provide a true interlock per the previous point. Plus I've personally had kind of mixed experience with the Ford Racing tech support advice. Especially regarding very specific electrical issues. This engine and all the electronics have so much going on, a little bit of effort up front with separate switches is more than worth it for me to eliminate any chance of unexpected consequences down the road.

[edwardb]

Changed my mind. Just looked (again) at the updated FF instructions for the Coyote installation including the 2015 version. Looks to me like their switch brackets could be made to work with a hydraulic setup and a Wilwood clutch master cylinder. Pretty easily and with minimal fabrication. The top switch can be mounted up just like their instructions show and is actuated by the Wilwood clutch pedal arm. Easy. The bottom switch could also be mounted like the instructions show, just would need a slightly different way to actuate and maybe moved back some. A piece of steel strip stock mounted on the Wilwood MC pushrod, similar to what I did, should work to actuate. Like this, except with the FF bracket holding the switch:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4070_zpsoozmz1pw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4070_zpsoozmz1pw.jpg.html)

[cnutting]

At the risk of being shunned, just connected the two wires together. Spent most of my driving life without a clutch interlock.:) Muscle memory puts it in neutral & floors the pedal.

Guess I am shunned too? :)