Which rear axles?

[KegMechanic]

Hi,

I've been getting my donor ready - 1990 Mustang GT. I want to convert to 5 Lugs, so I have better wheel selections. The build manual says to use front rotors from an ’91 Lincoln Mark VII, but i don't see anything about the rear. I've read some say to use axles from an 83-88 Ranger. I know they sell conversion kits, but I'm really trying to watch the budget and I think I can save a few bucks if I buy the components individually. Thanks for any info!

[michael everson]

I just bought a pair from Rock auto. Part number 2022601 $59.79 a piece. They fit and work great.
They are new replacement for the Ford Ranger
Mike

[KegMechanic]

I just bought a pair from Rock auto. Part number 2022601 $59.79 a piece. They fit and work great.
They are new replacement for the Ford Ranger
Mike

Thanks Mike. Would those axles have the same wheel hub diameter as the Lincoln Rotors?

[michael everson]

Not sure. but probably.
Mike

[Svtfreak]

You can also call late model restoration and get fox length 5 log axles. Problem solved then, easily, without crawling around in a muddy junk yard.

[GoDadGo]

I suggest MOSER for an upgraded replacement axels and you may want to consider buying a brake set up from them too that is a "C-Clip Eliminator" style.
It's nice to know that the axels can't just pop out plus they can be pulled without going into the pumpkin.
Good Luck & Happy Motoring!

[Derald Rice]

Be very cautious about using c clip eliminators. They were/are not designed for applications with a high side load. On a drag race only application, no problems. Do a search of "pro and cons of c clip eliminators", and read the reports of axle breakage and/or failures of the eliminators themselves. The only proven way to eliminate c clips is to use ford 9 inch axle ends, but it is expensive, and overkill in most situations.

C-clips will be fine. Unless you have a high dollar aftermarket rear brake system that cannot tolerate any axle end play. And since you have said that you are trying to keep the costs down, I doubt that you are installing an expensive rear brake setup.

Also, don't bother with the used axles, for the few bucks extra cost of new replacement axles, it is worth it. Last thing you want to do on a weekend is to open up the rear end to replace a used axle shaft with worn out splines or bearing surfaces.

Derald.

[KegMechanic]

Thanks for all the info. I think I'll just order the ones from rockauto along with some new wheel studs.

[GoDadGo]

Be very cautious about using c clip eliminators. They were/are not designed for applications with a high side load. On a drag race only application, no problems. Do a search of "pro and cons of c clip eliminators", and read the reports of axle breakage and/or failures of the eliminators themselves. The only proven way to eliminate c clips is to use ford 9 inch axle ends, but it is expensive, and overkill in most situations.

C-clips will be fine. Unless you have a high dollar aftermarket rear brake system that cannot tolerate any axle end play. And since you have said that you are trying to keep the costs down, I doubt that you are installing an expensive rear brake setup.

Also, don't bother with the used axles, for the few bucks extra cost of new replacement axles, it is worth it. Last thing you want to do on a weekend is to open up the rear end to replace a used axle shaft with worn out splines or bearing surfaces.

Derald.

C-Clipped rears are A-Okay for cruising so that's why the Chevy Cobra has a MOSER TSD-500 and not the Ford O.E. piece.
It's a Dana-44 style case with a true track worm drive style posi similar to the Eaton piece.
This rear works well since it truly differentieates unlike a clutch style posi.
I've had one axel walk out of a C-Clipped rear and it was one too many.