Wiring

[Hottrodder427]

I have the Ron Francis wiring harness, and the vintage gauges from ffr. Do I splice into the Ron Francis harness, or do I bypass the dash harness and just use the gauge harnesses? I am not good at wiring!!! It drives me insane

[edwardb]

Use the RF dash harness and attach all the gauge and switch wires to it. The vintage gauges (Speedhut) come with daisy chains for the backlight and needle lighting. Those get tied to the lighting wire in the RF harness. There are a lot of details. The RF manual and especially the schematic is very helpful. The Speedhut gauges also have instructions that explain how they should be connected.

This picture can't provide details, but gives the general idea of the RF dash harness (the three large connectors on the LH side) and how it can be routed through the gauges for hookup. The ignition leg from the main harness goes to the ignition switch. The headlight leg from the main harness goes to the headlight switch.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4133_zpsy8lqzxav.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4133_zpsy8lqzxav.jpg.html)

[DaleG]

Here's how Jeff Kleiner saved my bacon:


Jeff Kleiner’s WIRING DIRECTIONS
The Speedhut/FFR Classic gauges use 2 wire senders while the RF harness is set up for one wire so I recommend doing kind of a hybrid that will incorporate the pigtails with the black/white wires. You'll need to power up all of the gauges on their red wire by connecting them to the brown "gauge feed" wire in the harness. Also connect the black "ground" wire in the dash harness to each of the gauges' black wires. You will carry the tachometer signal from the coil on the purple "coil-tach" wire that runs all the way through in the sending units subharness. The speedo signal comes from the trans through the green and gray wires which will join the yellow/red and yellow/black wires on the gauge. Polarity is not important as it is only counting pulses. For the coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges run the long pigtail with the yellow/red and yellow/black wires to their respective senders. Once again polarity is not an issue because these are reading resistance. The voltmeter has no sender, the gauge power and ground give it all it needs. Fuel gauge connects to the light green "gas sender" wire. I recommend powering the clock from the red "radio memory" wire. That will get everything working.

Next move on to gauge lighting. The white wire from all of the gauges connects to the RF harness white "dash lights" wire. If you have the seperate dimmer module the white harness "dash lights" wire connects to the input of the dimmer; the dimmer's black ground connects to the black harness ground. From there the dimmers output snaps into the daisy chain connectors for the lighter gauge wire. It seems redundant but is this way because the needles are lighted independently from the gauge face and are not dimmed. If you do not have the dimmer module then the small white wire at the end of the snap together chain also connects to the harness "dash lights" wire, not directly to the headlight switch. By the way, before you drive yourself crazy thinking something is wrong---the hands on the clock are not lighted.

Good luck,
Jeff
__________________

[edwardb]

Here's how Jeff Kleiner saved my bacon:


Jeff Kleiner’s WIRING DIRECTIONS
The Speedhut/FFR Classic gauges use 2 wire senders while the RF harness is set up for one wire so I recommend doing kind of a hybrid that will incorporate the pigtails with the black/white wires. You'll need to power up all of the gauges on their red wire by connecting them to the brown "gauge feed" wire in the harness. Also connect the black "ground" wire in the dash harness to each of the gauges' black wires. You will carry the tachometer signal from the coil on the purple "coil-tach" wire that runs all the way through in the sending units subharness. The speedo signal comes from the trans through the green and gray wires which will join the yellow/red and yellow/black wires on the gauge. Polarity is not important as it is only counting pulses. For the coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges run the long pigtail with the yellow/red and yellow/black wires to their respective senders. Once again polarity is not an issue because these are reading resistance. The voltmeter has no sender, the gauge power and ground give it all it needs. Fuel gauge connects to the light green "gas sender" wire. I recommend powering the clock from the red "radio memory" wire. That will get everything working.

Next move on to gauge lighting. The white wire from all of the gauges connects to the RF harness white "dash lights" wire. If you have the seperate dimmer module the white harness "dash lights" wire connects to the input of the dimmer; the dimmer's black ground connects to the black harness ground. From there the dimmers output snaps into the daisy chain connectors for the lighter gauge wire. It seems redundant but is this way because the needles are lighted independently from the gauge face and are not dimmed. If you do not have the dimmer module then the small white wire at the end of the snap together chain also connects to the harness "dash lights" wire, not directly to the headlight switch. By the way, before you drive yourself crazy thinking something is wrong---the hands on the clock are not lighted.

Good luck,
Jeff
__________________

All great information and provides the details I didn't in my response. And confirms the RF dash harness is used as I suggested. The picture I posted is wired pretty much like described here.

[jrcuz]

Hotrodder,
FWIW I'm just back from build school and I was pleasantly surprised how quickly the dash wiring went together.
JR

[karlos]

Related question on the dash wiring: I want to use a single pole single throw switch to control the hazard lights, rather than the double pole double throw switch included in the kit. I believe this can be done by wiring one terminal on the switch to the hazard flasher and the other terminal to the lights on the four corners of the car. I also believe I'll need to incorporate a diode on the left and right side circuits. Can anyone please confirm this is correct? Thanks in advance.

[JIMOCO]

I used a single pole switch with the RF harness and fuse panel. If I recall correctly, constant power is supplied to both the turn signal flasher and the hazard flasher. The outputs from both flashers are connected to the left and right signal lamps. I used a Russ Thompson turn signal switch that is simply a single pole in either direction. That completed the circuit for either left or right through the turn signal flasher. The hazard switch completed the circuit for both. I did not install a diode or relay of any kind because the flashers acts like a relay.

[edwardb]

Related question on the dash wiring: I want to use a single pole single throw switch to control the hazard lights, rather than the double pole double throw switch included in the kit. I believe this can be done by wiring one terminal on the switch to the hazard flasher and the other terminal to the lights on the four corners of the car. I also believe I'll need to incorporate a diode on the left and right side circuits. Can anyone please confirm this is correct? Thanks in advance.

I too wanted to use matching Lucas switches, including for the hazards, and I haven't found a double pole single or double throw Lucas switch. For my first build I used a double pole single throw relay (from Radio Shack, back when they were down the street) fired by the single pole single throw Lucas switch. I worked OK, but a couple diodes is easier. The attached schematic is how I've wired my last two builds, and I've shared it a number of times and others have also used it successfully. The concept for the turn signals and hazards is that the grey wire from RF harness is an ignition switched +12V that goes to either left or right turn signals based on the turn signal switch. The pink wire from the RF harness is an always on (battery) +12V that goes to both left and right turns signals to provide the hazard function. By using diodes on the pink wire feeds from the single pole switch, backfeeding is prevented. Note this scheme also uses separate indicator lights.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/turn_signal_wiring_zpsfcde9f3d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/turn_signal_wiring_zpsfcde9f3d.jpg.html)



I used a single pole switch with the RF harness and fuse panel. If I recall correctly, constant power if supplied to both the turn signal flasher and the hazard flasher. The outputs from both flashers are connected to the left and right signal lamps. I used a Russ Thompson turn signal switch is simply a single pole in either direction. That completed the circuit for either left or right through the turn signal flasher. The hazard switch completed the circuit for both. I did not install a diode or relay of any kind because the flashers acts like a relay.

I believe you that this works, but to be honest I'm not exactly understanding what you did here. Also not sure what you may have done with indicators. Some want those, and that's another common way the circuits will backfeed into each other.

[GoDadGo]

Donnie,

As you know I don't have the "Vintage Gauges" but I did just finished all the hook ups for the dash and plan to install it this weekend.
It may help to see the actual routing for the switches and wire routings.
Swing by if you get bored.

Steve

PS: They have the Final Friday Block Party & Car Show in Covington this evening from 6:00 PM to 9:00PM.

[JIMOCO]

edwardb, I have both indicators working as well and still no diodes or relays. I am at work now but over the weekend I will try (I am not very good it drawing schematics) to draw it out and post it. I have tested the system having the hazards on with all six lights blinking (four corners, two indicators) and turned either the right or left signals on and no issues. The hazards remained blinking. As soon as I turn off the hazards which ever turn signal is on will blink. I did the reverse as well having the turn signal (right or left) on and then switched on the hazards. All six then begin to blink. It might have been dumb luck for me but I have been using them for a year now.

[Avalanche325]

If I had a gripe about the whole kit, this would be it. The FFR gauges and the RF / FFR harness have to be spliced. You would think that the harness would be made for the classic gauges instead of the Autometer ones. It is not a big deal splicing them. Just an unpleasant surprise having to.

[karlos]

Paul,

Thank you for the turn signal schematic. Exactly what I was looking for. Much appreciated!

[Hottrodder427]

I can do just about anything in this world, except d/c wiring! Lol man it gives me a headache. I think I have it but I'm three drinks in, so Ima take a break for the night

[Hottrodder427]

Steve,
I'm going to try fire it up this weekend. I'll give you a call if I do.

[GoDadGo]

Steve,
I'm going to try fire it up this weekend. I'll give you a call if I do.

PLEASE DO & I'LL LIKELY BRING PEDRO TOO!

I'm trying to play catch up, meaning catch up to you so I'll be around.
Waiting on my clutch and flywheel so all I can do is mop up little things until then!

[JIMOCO]

Correction to my previous reply. I slid under the dash and checked and I did use the double pole single throw switch supplied with the kit. Sorry for the confusion. Sorry edwardb, you are, as I have always found you to be, spot-on with your approach.

[edwardb]

Correction to my previous reply. I slid under the dash and checked and I did use the double pole single throw switch supplied with the kit. Sorry for the confusion. Sorry edwardb, you are, as I have always found you to be, spot-on with your approach.

Thanks for the follow-up. I don't know about the "always" part but thanks for the shout out. I was really curious how you were able to get that to work with a single pole switch and no relays or diodes. Double pole switch gets the job done. Keeps the single feed from the hazards from backfeeding into the separate turn signal circuits. :)