Fitting doors, windshield frame, fender, hood junction

[ben1272]

I have not made my final installation, but I did do a dry run through the installation and trimmed and fit my panels to what I hope is close to their final positions. I was ok with my final fit. I wanted to share a couple of observations:

- Check the symmetry between the FFR miter cuts at the lower edges of the windshield frame....mine were not the same length, off by 1/2". You may or may not want to trim, but be aware of the potential for different length A-pillars. I taped my door pull aluminum bars to the top edge of the windshield as a straight reference so I could compare both sides with each other.

- Make sure to consider all of the potential range of adjustments that the front fender brackets/diagonal struts, allow. I had mine tight and then remembered all of the slots and so loosened them up to help get things aligned.

- I found it useful to tape the fenders to the hood so it would stay together and move as a unit versus all 3 pieces individually. I aligned the front edges and then let things fall where they may.

- It is worth checking your spindles are centered in the fender arch.

- I found it helpful to check door skin fit without door frames in place. I figure I can lengthen slots, etc., to make frames hang where I need them, but the body panels need to come together right to look good. i hope I am right!

- There is a product available at autobody supply shopes, maybe even parts stores, that is fiberglass stands in resin with separate hardener like bondo has. It hardens into a solid mass of glass reinforced resin that can be filed, sanded, shaped, etc., to rebuild or blend or create new features in fiberglass parts. I will likely use this to finish off the lower A pillar/fender/hood junction so that things get closed off nice with decent looks.

- It doesnt look like too much thought was given to water drainage. This is an area I need to give some more thought to.

- Dont forget to check top of windshield frame to roll bar dimension if you plan to install FFR soft top....it needs to be a specific dimension.


I will post pictures as I finalize my body. I hope this is helpful to someone.

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[Hindsight]

Good point on water drainage. I am still trying to figure out how to wash my S roadster without getting water in the cabin.

[ben1272]

Good luck with that! But if you are not joking.....let me know when you figure out a way to channel water down and out from the windshield!

[07FIREBLADE]

Buy the hardtop option and seal it up.... That was my route and it's going to be a hard task to accomplish. But it's a kit car right.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Good point on water drainage. I am still trying to figure out how to wash my S roadster without getting water in the cabin.


Good luck with that! But if you are not joking.....let me know when you figure out a way to channel water down and out from the windshield!


Buy the hardtop option and seal it up.... That was my route and it's going to be a hard task to accomplish. But it's a kit car right.

Guys, are you serious about keeping water out of the 818S cabin. Our 818 was on an open trailer on the way home from a track day at NCM. It was raining so hard we could not see driving the tow vehicle. We decided to stop for pizza near Kentucky Speedway while the car was outside in the down pour. Our cabin gets wet 3 to 4 times a month. I have no concern at all.
Put your ECU in a sealed box. Put your fuse box and cluster under the dash. Use a marine radio. Our Kerkey seats use non-assortment cloth and foam.
Bob

[ben1272]

concerned is the wrong word. It is just the engineer in me looking to have at least planned a path for water to enter and escape, preferably avoiding the areas I would rather not find wet! I probably wont succeed, but I will at least drill drain holes and try to seal entry points that would guide water on to the floor versus out onto the sidesill/ground!

Besides, this forum is so awesome that when we all start put our minds to various problems, those problems have a way of disappearing! I figure things like water management will all get better with time and forum use.

[UnhipPopano]

This is not a great idea "...but I will at least drill drain holes ...". If you are driving in rain, water will flow both ways but the flow in will not be clean water. My guess is that it is not easy to seal up the floor in the first place. Also, some time ago there was a discussion on a product that covered the cockpit and windshield, wrapping around the side mirrors. The person who posted, said that the product worked well to keep out the rain.

[tmoretta]

That recomm. sounds like the "California Pop Top" size C14. Good product, but I don't think you could use it with the 818 speeding along on a trailer.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

concerned is the wrong word. It is just the engineer in me looking to have at least planned a path for water to enter and escape, preferably avoiding the areas I would rather not find wet! I probably wont succeed, but I will at least drill drain holes and try to seal entry points that would guide water on to the floor versus out onto the sidesill/ground!

Besides, this forum is so awesome that when we all start put our minds to various problems, those problems have a way of disappearing! I figure things like water management will all get better with time and forum use.

Hi Ben,
The steel part of our floor already had slots for water drainage. We drilled 1/4" holes in each corner of the aluminum under the seats. (24)
We do use a car cover if we have to leave the car sit outside. Obviously that doesn't help if we are driving or trailering.
At 30+ mph in light rain we stay pretty dry. The air coming up off the windshield tends to blow the droplets over our heads. The drivers back side of his left shoulder seems to get wet as the right shoulder of the passenger also gets wet.

Totally agree with forum/engineering problem solving comments.
Bob

[Hindsight]

That's a good idea Bob.... sort of the Honda Element approach. I think, though, that one has to make certain sacrifices when going that route... giving up some interior bling and additional gauges and things like that. I know for the way I built mine, I need to keep the cabin dry. I will also use mine probably less than you though..... only when the weather is nice.

[AZPete]

Re drain holes, I have drilled 2 3/8" holes in the bottom of each door shell in case any water gets through the door window gaskets on my coupe. Also, in the alum panel below the battery, I drilled holes at each of the back corners since water can come in through the radiator or through the 2 hood vents. Think weight-saving, too!

[ben1272]

yes, weight saving! I never thought of that....

I cant imagine it is a good idea to leave any low areas without a way for water to exit....unless you are certain you will never get your car wet ever. For me that is unlikely as I will at least give it a bath every once and awhile.