Tips for rear wheel studs

[wareaglescott]

Any tips on getting these in?
The manual says to use a lug nut to pull it in. I don't have my lugs yet because my wheels are on backorder. I would go buy a couple but multiple people have told me that doesn't work to well anyways. I am considering using one of the removed studs and just hitting that with a sledge to drive the new one in. IS this a bad idea? I don't want to hurt the new part or anything. I just have a hard time thinking it is right knocking the crap out of a new part! ha
Also is there any problem using wd40 or some other lube to help with this?
Thanks
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56233&d=1468618242

[Duke]

Impact wrench. I use my Milwaukee M18 fuel 1/2 impact. If you use a lug nut know it will be trashed when done. You'll also want a washer as a spacer if using a lug nut.

[Norm B]

Take the stud to the hardware store and get the best grade of nut you can that fits it. Buy a few and some washers the correct size.

Put the stud in place, liberally grease the washers and stack them on, grease the nut and put it on the stud. Clamp the hub in a vice using soft jaws to prevent marking it up. Use an impact driver to pull the stud in.

Repeat as necessary for the remaining studs switching to a new nut every couple of installations.

Good Luck
Norm

[wareaglescott]

Take the stud to the hardware store and get the best grade of nut you can that fits it. Buy a few and some washers the correct size.

Put the stud in place, liberally grease the washers and stack them on, grease the nut and put it on the stud. Clamp the hub in a vice using soft jaws to prevent marking it up. Use an impact driver to pull the stud in.

Repeat as necessary for the remaining studs switching to a new nut every couple of installations.

Good Luck
Norm

Thanks. I guess I will be buying an impact wrench!
Can you explain why to grease the washers?

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I am considering using one of the removed studs and just hitting that with a sledge to drive the new one in. IS this a bad idea? I don't want to hurt the new part or anything.

Yeah, it's a bad idea. Most likely thing to get hurt is YOU! :mad: Pull the stud into place with a matching conventional nut and a couple of washers as others have said. I'm sure that I've done it about a hundred times! Impact makes it easier but lacking one you can accomplish it with a breaker bar as long as you have a way to hold the hub stationary. It will pull through comparatively easily until it seats then you will find that the required torque spikes.

Good luck,
Jeff

[Ram4x4sprt]

Lisle make a inexpensive stud installer. It is a ball bearing that has a taper for the lug nut to seat in and a collar that fits against the hub which allows it to smoothly draw the stud in without stretching the threads. You can also us the greased washers and nut scenario. The Lisle tool number is 22800

[boat737]

I can recommend the DeWalt 18V XRP 1/2 inch impact wrench. (Although the newer one's look smaller than the one I have.) 300 ft/lbs torque. It's gotten lug nuts off of rusted boat trailer spindles that I couldn't budge with a 24 inch breaker bar.

[wareaglescott]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I bought a pneumatic impact wrench and it was a piece of cake. It took much longer to go get the tool than to to the actual job. Amazing what having the right tool for the job will do for you!

[CraigS]

Here is another tool for you, a torque stick. Basically it's an 8-9 inch extension made of a calibrated steel so it is a spring. You can get them in various torque settings.
I like the one that does not have a permanent socket. that way I can use it for different jobs. Lugnuts, flywheel bolts etc.
https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-50091A-2-Inch-Foot-Pounds-Extension/dp/B00KDD40X2/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468698156&sr=8-11&keywords=torque+sticks
Check Amazon for a huge bunch of options.