Coyote levelling and footbox interference

[briankauf]

Hello everyone,

I have read through all the posts I could find on this subject and don't have a definitive answer for what I'm seeing. I am installing a 2015 coyote engine in a MKIV built in october (so I have the updated coyote footbox from Factory five). I first installed the engine with the FF recommendation on motor mount spacing (just the supplied mount spacer -- the one that installs between the motor mount and the engine block) on the driver's side. I immediately see two issues -- the engine is very tilted, with the DS much higher than the PS, and the oil pan hangs just below the 4" round frame member. Next I tried adding 3/8" whitby spacers on both sides (the ones that mount between the motor mount and the car frame. This eliminated the issue of the oil pan hanging low, but the engine is still obviously crooked, which also affects the transmission. Next, I've tried removing the 3/8" spacer on the DS side only. This gets the engine close to level (it's still a bit higher on the DS, but now there's a tiny bit of contact between the plastic head cover on the DS, and the DS footbox. I do have some thin heat and sound deadener on the outside of the footbox, so there might not be contact if that extra 3/16" or so weren't there.

I am wondering if folks have input on how I should proceed? How big a deal is slight contact between the heads and the footbox?

Thanks!

Brian

[2bking]

You should be able to slide the motor mount studs in the mounting slots on the frame to level the engine. I used a 1/2" spacer under both mounts at the frame to get the pan (Moroso) level with the bottom of the frame rails. The Coyote for sure is a tight fit to the DS foot box. I have about a 1/2" clearance at the plastic head cover. The new FFR Coyote sheet metal should be riveted to the 3/4" tubes behind it so there will not be anymore room to be gained trying to adjust it further away from the engine. That leaves having to move the engine in the motor mounts to get more clearance. The engine will move as power is produced so you need to start out with some clearance.

[briankauf]

King, are you saying I can slide the engine up down to add further shims, or left/right to push it a bit from the footbox?

[edwardb]

I've just gone through this pretty recently with my 2015 Coyote build in a Roadster. Mine was just before the new sheet metal from FF was released, so I have 2bking's DS modded pieces. I tried a spacer under just the DS per the instructions and agree the engine is tilted quite a lot and the Moroso pan is below the frame on the PS. Then I tried the Whitby 3/8-inch spacers on both sides. The engine is still just slightly tilted toward the PS, but it's extremely minor and doesn't hurt anything. I've tried adjusting the position of the engine mounts in the frame mounts, but the studs appear to be bottomed on both sides. My pipe alignment is decent, something else that has to be taken into accout, so I'm leaving it where it's at. The Moroso pan is at or slightly above the frame rails. I have about 1/4-inch of space between the DS footbox and the closest part of the head. I've revved it pretty hard and the engine doesn't move much. Under actual acceleration and load I expect it would move more, but it would mainly move away from the footbox (opposite from engine rotation) so I think it will be OK. Perhaps 1/2-inch spacers like 2bking mentioned would be better, but I've got the engine and trans install all buttoned up and it's going to stay how it is. I've got my heat and sound insulation inside the footbox, which is what I prefer.

[2bking]

King, are you saying I can slide the engine up down to add further shims, or left/right to push it a bit from the footbox?

I was referring to leveling the engine by forcing it to rotate where the motor mounts attach to the frame. Having the headers installed will get you more leverage but the engine should rotate as one side slides down and the other slides up on the frame plates. The amount of rotation available will depend on how close the studs are to the ends of the slots.

[Duke]

Here's my adventure. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20443-2015-Coyote-Engine-Mount-alignment-issue

The motor sits in my frame pretty close to level now with only the DS provided 'L' spacer. Note I'm running a different trans (T-56 mag) and did some custom changes to the rear trans mount. Also, note that in the recent revision to the FFR Coyote instructions for 2015+ motors they have new motor mount spacers within the motor mounts themselves and on BOTH sides.

Edit: updated instructions: http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Coyote-Fitment-roadster-1.pdf

[briankauf]

Duke, thanks for the link. 1/2" spacers IN the motor mounts. Okay, I guess I'll shim both sides to 1/2" to see where that gets me (before I take the whole thing out for a 3rd time :-/

[edwardb]

FYI, I called and talked to Factory Five today. They confirmed they now recommend 1/2-inch spacers under both motor mounts. They also have the engine mount spacers available separately. The part number is 16265. Includes the three 1/2-inch spacer pieces for each motor mount and longer bolts. $80 plus shipping. Said they're currently out of stock due to demand but will have more in a week or so. I think I'm going to go that way. The slight increase will help with my pipe alignment and still keep the pan from going below the frame rails plus maybe give me a little more footbox clearance. Plus I like the modified mounts vs. the external spacers. I can lift the engine with my shop crane and make the change without removing the engine completely.

[briankauf]

I was planning to just make up the spacers myself. Easy enough to get aluminum cutoff piece and cut them to fit. I think you're right, it should be possible to get the mounts off without the jimmying the engine all the way out of it's home.