EdwardB’s Mk4 #8674 2015 Coyote First Start and Go-Kart

[edwardb]

I'll put this in my build thread, but first starts deserve their own thread, right? Today was finally the day. This morning I finished all the last bits of wiring. Then filled all the fluids, put gas in the tank for the first time, and ran out of excuses. I did turn it over a few times with nothing switched on and just jumped the two terminals on the starter. Wanted to confirm the starter worked, meshed OK, plus circulate some oil. Worked as expected.

Next I wanted to set the fuel pressure regulator. The Aeromotive instructions say to turn on the ignition, and with the fuel pump running, set the regulator. The Coyote instructions say “Set regulator to maintain 55 psi delta fuel pressure across injector (55 psi at fuel rail with engine off).” When I turned on the key, the fuel pump started. But only ran a few seconds and then shut off. I could hear a relay in the Coyote PDB click, obviously cutting the voltage because immediately the relay in the RF fuse panel also clicked. This is not what I was expecting. I thought the pump would run continuously. After trying it a few more times with the same result, I checked the gauge on the regulator and it was showing 40-50psi (didn’t look real close) so clearly the pump was working and I had pressure in the lines. There must be a pressure sensor of some type in the fuel system and it's shutting down the pump when pressure achieved.

I wasn’t sure what to expect, but did go ahead with the first start. With the video running, pushed the clutch in and turned the key. The engine started almost immediately. Crazy. Thinking maybe something wasn’t right with the fuel system, I thought it might start and then stop, but it didn’t. I was intently watching the gauges, and noted I had good oil pressure, the voltage was 14+ so the alternator was working, and the tach was working. Yeah! That was probably the one I was most worried about. I still can’t believe Ford didn’t include a tach connection in the 2015 controls pack. But the single wire connection to one of the coil on plug wires and the proper calibration as described by Speedhut works! I detailed this in my build thread. So without further ado, here is the first start video. Note you can hear how long the fuel pump runs when the key is turned on:

https://youtu.be/XZwCmZg0qz0

After the first start, I checked everywhere for any leaks or anything that didn’t seem right. Nothing. All looked perfect. Started it a couple more times and noted the temp gauge was starting to move. Then took another video, this time hitting the throttle a few times. I found it a little interesting that the accelerator pedal (DBW) at first seem a little sluggish and even a bit delayed. But the more I ran the engine, it became more sensitive and now feels quite normal. I don’t know if this was just the engine warming up or maybe part of the learning process by the PCM. The cooling fan came on near the end of this video (more wiring confirmed) although the temp gauge was only indicating 65-70C. These aren’t really related since the gauge is reading the Speedhut temp sensor and the Coyote PCM “infers” the temperature based on several sensor inputs. So kind of different but as I understand most likely normal. I'm trusting the computer to know when the fan should run.

https://youtu.be/qXwz4C-OVws

Finally took one last video this time from the driver’s seat and scanning the instruments. The engine sounds strong, to say the least. Couple of throttle hits and still only peaking at 3,500 rpm or so. Interesting to see how much the oil pressure swings when doing that.

https://youtu.be/MGiRDLwrwrU

Not much else to add. While it was running, I clicked through all five gears with the back wheels spinning away. All seems normal. Also while it was running went back to the fuel tank and confirmed the fuel pump was indeed running. Kind of a no-brainer since the engine wouldn't run long if it weren't, but I was happy to hear it humming away in there. After I shut things down, checked everything over and not a drop of fluid or any problems noted (so far...). Just need to figure out how I’m supposed to set the fuel regulator. Next step will be to drop it on its wheels and do a quick/rough alignment. Then it should be go-kart time. Woo-hoo!

[Boydster]

Yay!! Good work!

[unrealmach1]

Congrats on the first start. Car sounds awesome!

[Scotts98rt]

congratulations, you said you had a couple wires to hook up.and it should run. Thanks again for your time and generosity.

[toddhack]

Congrats. It sounds great!

[videodude]

It's a Ford. The fuel pump will only run for a few seconds UNLESS there is input to the PCM from the crank position sensor, so it doesn't run continuously without the engine being cranked or running. Probably for fire protection.

HTH, Video

[edwardb]

It's a Ford. The fuel pump will only run for a few seconds UNLESS there is input to the PCM from the crank position sensor, so it doesn't run continuously without the engine being cranked or running. Probably for fire protection.

HTH, Video


Thanks for the encouraging comments everyone. :D

Regarding the fuel pump behavior I described, I've heard from other Coyote owners and this is new for the 2015 version. The 2011-2014 Coyote version runs the fuel pump continuously. Like I was expecting. The crate motor Coyote installation is a return style fuel system compared to the returnless system used on factory Mustang vehicles. So there wouldn't be an issue with it running continuously, but clearly Ford decided to change things with the new version. I thought about temporarily hot wiring it, but I was able to set the regulator pressure by watching the gauge during the short time the pump runs and making repeated adjustments until it was at the recommended 55psi setting. Later confirmed it was indicating exactly 55psi while running.

[WIS89]

Paul-

Congratulations on the awesome milestone! She sounds great -- I love that growl when you hit the loud pedal a bit.

I am sure you noticed, but on the third video, it looks like the amber light on your dash illuminated.

I am not surprised that there were no leaks, drips, or runs of any kind -- it's your attention to detail that assures it.

Well done Sir, and I look forward to watching the go-kart videos!

Regards,

Steve

[edwardb]

Paul-

Congratulations on the awesome milestone! She sounds great -- I love that growl when you hit the loud pedal a bit.

I am sure you noticed, but on the third video, it looks like the amber light on your dash illuminated.

I am not surprised that there were no leaks, drips, or runs of any kind -- it's your attention to detail that assures it.

Well done Sir, and I look forward to watching the go-kart videos!

Regards,

Steve

Thanks! The amber light is an indicator the cooling fan is running. I added it in parallel with the Coyote harness wire to the fan. All good. :D

[BikingJohn]

Congrats on the engine start, can't wait until I reach that point. I just got my complete kit on father's day and just finished my inventory. I ordered the kit with the Coyote option so I have really been following your latest build with interest. Can't wait to see your first drive. One note, you mentioned that you wired the amber light in series with the wire to the fan. If that is truly the case, if the lamp fails your fan will not run. Best case would be an led that is between the fan wire and ground. LED's draw very little current and if it fails will have no effect on fan operation. I suspect that you already know that but I thought I would say it anyway. Also, thanks for taking the time to detail out your build and great pictures, will really help me once I start my build.

John

[edwardb]

Congrats on the engine start, can't wait until I reach that point. I just got my complete kit on father's day and just finished my inventory. I ordered the kit with the Coyote option so I have really been following your latest build with interest. Can't wait to see your first drive. One note, you mentioned that you wired the amber light in series with the wire to the fan. If that is truly the case, if the lamp fails your fan will not run. Best case would be an led that is between the fan wire and ground. LED's draw very little current and if it fails will have no effect on fan operation. I suspect that you already know that but I thought I would say it anyway. Also, thanks for taking the time to detail out your build and great pictures, will really help me once I start my build. John

Oops. My bad. I wired the fan indicator light in parallel. Not sure why I said series. I changed my post. What I did was take the orange wire from the Coyote harness toward the front of the car along the PS hood 3/4-inch tube. I had to add several feet of wire to get to the actual cooling fan. In that splice I also added a small gauge wire that goes back to the indicator light on the dash. Also added grounds for the fan and the light of course. When the PCM/PDB sends +12V through the orange wire to run the fan, the light is also lit. If the light should fail, the fan operation wouldn't be affected.

All the indicators (left and right turn signal, high beam, cooling fan, and Coyote Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) are LED's.

Thanks for catching that.

[Avalanche325]

Congrats! It sounds nice. Geeze those Coyotes crank up some oil pressure.

[cgundermann]

Awesome - I am hoping to do my first start this month; great motivation. Not a Coyote, but a FI 347 with a Pro-M Racing ECU. Still some sorting out issues with the main RF wiring harness. You do great work!

[carlewms]

Your fantastic attention to detail and skills ... Led to a purrfect first start. Congratulations!

[edwardb]

Spent yesterday wrapping up the final details for the go-kart. Dropped the chassis off the lift and onto its wheels for the first time. Found the place that mounted my tires had them at 40psi. So backed them down to 22 front and 24 rear. Then set ride height. I left it about 1/2-inch high front and back. Normally ride height will settle a little, plus still a few hundred pounds to go with the body and related.

Then I took my first pass at front and rear alignment. I haven’t done an IRS build before, so this was a first. The new 2015 Mustang IRS is easy, as I understand, compared to the former T-Bird version. Nothing to take apart. Loosen two lock nuts to adjust camber, and two more to adjust toe. They do interact a bit, but generally was pretty easy. The specs are camber: -0.5° to -0.75° and total toe: 1/8-inch toe in. Probably the biggest challenge was to get my Fastrax camber/caster gauge to fit onto the new wheels. The large radius on the wheel lip is cool looking, but doesn’t give much to hang onto. I figured out a way and got the rear alignment set. Then moved to the front. Here I was shooting for camber: -0.5°, caster: +8°, and total toe: 1/16-inch toe in. Note the higher caster number is possible with power steering. Manual steering would be lower. Took a couple hours because they were pretty far off from the build and they all interact to some extent. But got them real close I think. I was happy to get the higher caster number without having to modify the rear adjuster on the UCA. I’ve read where some had to shorten it a bit. In addition to the Fastrax tool, I use Heidt’s steel toe plates and a magnetic laser level. The combination of toe plates and the laser level replaces the use of strings that a lot of guys do.

Couple other quick comments. I’ve noticed after starting the Coyote now a number of times that in addition to it starting almost immediately, the ignition key start position initiates the start sequence as soon as you turn the key. And it’s not necessary to hold the key in start until the engine is running. Basically it works just like a start button, which of course us how a Mustang is set up. Note this is only the case if using the Coyote controls pack start function and wire to the starter. The updated Coyote instructions from FF show using the RF harness for the ignition key and starter. It would work in the more traditional manner. Also, just for grins I plugged my Innovate LM-2 into the ODB port just to see if it worked (it does) and what I could read. There is a ton of stuff, and lots more to learn about there. But what I did note was three ODB trouble codes. I looked them up. One was related to engine temp and sensor, the other two were bank 1 and bank 2 intake manifold runner controls. I cleared the codes, and ran the engine several times and no codes noted. After my go-karts this AM, where it probably ran 30 minutes or more, also still no codes. So maybe those were from sometime during the engine install where the PCM was powered up but not everything was hooked up yet. But I’ll keep an eye on it. I have the Coyote check engine light as an indicator on my dash, and it hasn’t lit yet.

OK, so on with the go-kart. Really nothing earthshaking to report. Everything seems to be working OK. The GPS speedo is working and I’m now showing .7 miles on the odometer. That’s just going up and down a side street maybe 6-8 times. The clutch engagement is in just the right place and the pedal force is smooth and relatively light. That 1-inch clutch MC is perfect. Just the slightest amount of clutch chatter while starting out. But that’s maybe me getting used to it plus I was being very gentle with the throttle. The manual Wilwood brakes are OK, but clearly need to be bedded and broken in further. The accelerator (DBW) felt quite normal. I have heard from others there is a delay when pushing in and releasing. But I’m not noticing that at all. Feels pretty direct to me. Power steering works very well and maybe is a bit light. But we'll see after real driving. Easy enough to adjust by changing a valve on the KRC pump. I only used 1st and 2nd, and max speed according to the GPS speedo memory was 27 mph. So not exactly killing it. Speed limit in our sub is 25, plus just taking it easy and trying not to attract too much attention. The main takeaway from the entire experience was those sticky Goodrich tires were pelting me with every manner of small stones from the street. The trunk and cockpit are full of them now. Next order of business will be to get out the shop vac.

This is the very first drive after backing out of my driveway. I was obviously being very gentle getting the feel for things and making sure all worked OK:

https://youtu.be/tHi0rsHEoas

Took it up a notch the second time around:

https://youtu.be/G-JP9hmSwis

And maybe just a bit more this time. Still baby steps though.

https://youtu.be/I55VraeTBU4

I can tell the Coyote is going to be very responsive and strong. It certainly has a different sound than previous SBF builds. Just a couple more details and I’ll be starting body work and install.

[wareaglescott]

Congrats Paul. I loved seeing the go cart video. Love that motor sound.

[unrealmach1]

Awesome!

[WIS89]

Paul-

You looked good and the car sounded GREAT!! I look forward to seeing how she looks when you mash the loud pedal just a bit more!

Congratulations on the milestone, and keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve

[karlos]

Congratulations! Great progress and attention to detail. Love the backfire through the exhaust on deceleration...

[dnew]

Paul,

Congratulations!! It sounds great. I for one am hoping down the road you will do a small writeup comparing the Coyote and SBF engines from installation to performance differences.

[cgundermann]

Sounds awesome!����

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations, Congratulations & Congratulations!

You've now created not one, not two, but three masterpieces.
I'll speak for 99.65378% of the forum members and say: Fantastic Work Sir EdwardB!
Being a Banker you can understand why I carried the percentage so far out to the right-hand side of the decimal point!

Congratulation-X-Three!

Steve / aka: GoDadGo