Question about powder coat - FFR's new DS footbox kickout

[silver_pilate]

I've been working on the early portions of my build getting engine compartment panels ready to send for powder coat. I have FFR's newest sheet metal, and I found it interesting as to how they created the footbox kickout. It's a three piece system utilizing the existing footbox side and two pieces (one mounted from the inside and the other over the junction of the inside piece and the flap from the footbox side). Here are a few pictures:

The flap from the footbox side and the internal piece:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o202/maco_man/FFR%20Roadster/0DECD77D-EC57-4D01-AF13-42C2A63298F3_zpsokyr4bxu.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/maco_man/media/FFR%20Roadster/0DECD77D-EC57-4D01-AF13-42C2A63298F3_zpsokyr4bxu.jpg.html)

The cover piece that joins them all together:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o202/maco_man/FFR%20Roadster/8902FE56-C47E-40A9-BBAA-60BE5CDDCC3A_zpsxkxbnt02.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/maco_man/media/FFR%20Roadster/8902FE56-C47E-40A9-BBAA-60BE5CDDCC3A_zpsxkxbnt02.jpg.html)

And the way they look all together:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o202/maco_man/FFR%20Roadster/433DF58D-6234-493F-A284-C71991A2BEDD_zpswozwjyp1.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/maco_man/media/FFR%20Roadster/433DF58D-6234-493F-A284-C71991A2BEDD_zpswozwjyp1.jpg.html)

It's an elegant solution but it also requires a lot of rivets. Que the porcupine:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o202/maco_man/FFR%20Roadster/3F2B483A-D6AF-4846-803E-45C9B560CE88_zpsohu85xoj.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/maco_man/media/FFR%20Roadster/3F2B483A-D6AF-4846-803E-45C9B560CE88_zpsohu85xoj.jpg.html)

Now I probably could have gotten away with a few less rivets, but there it is.

My question is since I'm getting the footbox pieces all powder coated, and the new kickout is essentially a permanent part of the DS outer box panel, should I go ahead and rivet AND silicone it all in place and then have it all powder coated as a unit? That seems easier than getting it coated in separate pieces. Especially how it all goes together, there are a number of sharp edges just waiting to scratch a brand-new powder coat job. Will the silicone (GE silicone II) hold up to the baking temperatures of the powder coat?

--Nathan

[Jeff Kleiner]

Not sure about the compatibility of PC and silicone but speaking of rivets if you message me with an address I'll get that pneumatic riveter coming your way if you're still interested.

Cheers,
Jeff

[RM1SepEx]

if you sand blast the assembly after it is assembled and use high temp silicone you should be OK.

[2bking]

Powder coat will not stick to silicone so any trace of it on the panel or seam will leave a bare spot. The service temperature of the GE Silicone found in the local stores is about 400-500 degrees F and the cure temperature of the powder coat paint is about 400 F so it should be OK. But you will have traces of the silicone around the rivets, in the rivets, and along the seams no matter how you try to clean it up. You may want to consider putting it together without the sealant and filling the holes after powder coat. After the carpet and body is installed, very little of the panel is visible.

[silver_pilate]

Thanks, King and Dan. I'm likely going to just rivet it up dry (without silicone) and then have it powder coated. Suggestions are that the powder coat *should* flow into most of the seams to effectively create the seal. If there are any pin-holes left, I will use small dabs/smears of silicone to seal those afterward. Plus, it's going to have insulation/sound deadening over it anyway.

Jeff, message has been sent. Thanks, and you rock!

--Nathan

[Jazzman]

I did exactly as you have decided to do: Riveted it together dry, then had it powder coated. It worked great! All sealed up by the Powder coat. EdwardB is correct, after carpet, you are not going to see much of this panel. I PC'ed it anyway, and am happy with the result. Make it so!

[Jim Schenck]

That kickout is also width adjustable, in other words the flanges don't have to overlap completely and you can get a larger dead pedal area on a standard MKIV. We had to do it that way to be able to fit it inside of the 289 body which is narrower in that area and has to have the flanges completely overlap to fit.

[silver_pilate]

Thanks, Jim. I like the addition. I wasn't expecting to do any sort of kickout there, so an engineered version right from the source was a bonus for me. :)

Jazzman, glad to hear it worked well for you. I'll post some pictures once I actually get the thing powder coated. I'm hopeful to finish up all drilling in the engine compartment and then disassemble the panels through this week. After that, I'll just need to clean and scuff the a bit and then find a time that works for my powder coater. Oh, and finalize what color to go with :D

--Nathan

[Bill Waters]

+1 2bking's comments. Ask me how I know!

Bill