Breeze Automotive 1.75" Roll bars: Carbon or Stainless Steel?

[Jazzman]

Of those of you that have used the Breeze Automotive 1.75" Roll bars, which material did you choose and why: Carbon Steel or Stainless Steel? I need to buy a passenger side roll bar anyway, and like the look of the shorter, meatier, Breeze bars. I will have the polished stainless side pipes, but the windshield frame and the bumpers will be chrome. Carbon is much cheaper than Stainless, but I will have to pay to chrome the carbon steels bars. Of course I will have to pay someone to polish the stainless ones too. So which way did you go? Any opinions out there?

[mikeinatlanta]

Around here polishing stainless is cheaper than chroming.

[DaleG]

I have the stainless bars. I left them "plain", fine-sanded them and keep them clean with scotch brite. I like the look, contrasting slightly with the polished stainless sidepipes and chrome bumpers. With the bars, there is the added requirement for welding the 3rd leg to the hoop (need a good TIG weldor). If you do go with the 1-3/4" bars, best to install them as if final fit and tack the 3rd leg to the hoop as this is critical for final fit. You can remove the bars after tacking and then finish the weld (at a shop, if you don't weld). Again, if you don't weld, ask the shop to come out to the house for the tack weld and then take the bar back to the shop for final weld.

[DaleG]

Around here polishing stainless is cheaper than chroming.

The case almost anywhere, anymore!

[edwardb]

I can't add too much to what has already been said here. I did the DS only Breeze bar on #7750. I too like the slightly meatier look, lower profile, and more original backward rake. Just be aware, if you're average height or more, it's possible they're not high enough to pass a tech inspection should you want to track the car. It's close, and depends on how exact they want to be. But they are maybe a bit too short if that's your thing.

As far as the material, I did plain steel and had it chromed. I was lucky to find a local place that chromed it for $250, and they did a nice job. But unless you've got an inside connection somewhere, it's going to be that much or more. I agree having the SS polished would likely be cheaper. Nicely polished SS and chrome go together fine. Unless they're right next to each other, you won't notice any difference. The one complication with these is the welding. I agree best to have them welded on the car. I tried to make a fixture that held the leg to the hoop (solidly I thought) but it still moved a bit when welded and was quite a struggle to install. I was able to bend it some, but it was still a very tight fit. I hope I don't ever have to get it back off. Having all three legs rigid makes the alignment pretty critical. But be careful if you decide to weld in place on the chassis. I would be very careful about having anything electronic on the chassis when welded. MSD specifically cites this as a reason for module failure. (Just please let's not start that debate again...). I'm thinking of the Coyote PCM, for example. I wouldn't have that near the chassis while welding.

[pcww]

Paul is on the money with the height issue. I am 6'4" and am way over the finished bar. I have D/s and P/S but have only installed the D/S. I did also get Russ's plates to cover the insert area for the P/S. But the look is worth it. No issues with the height so far. If I rollover i plan on ducking.

[MPTech]

I have both Driver & Passenger Stainless rollbars and I had them polished. I REALLY like them. I also have polished SS Sidepipes and bumpers.
I installed the hoops and temporarily installed the rear legs, took the roadster to the welding shop and had them tacked. Then I took the car home, removed the rollbars and took them back for final welds. I also bought the Russ Thompson trim rings, they look great.

I really like the look of these.