major problems using donor lower control arms,help

[clancypm]

Ok I'm using my mustang donor lower control arms,and Ive run into2major problems. I was feeling really good as I had the front suspension, steering rack and steering rods all in. I then put my steering wheel on and I was only getting 1.5 turns lock to lock {I should get 2.25 turns lock to lock}. Then as I started to problem solve I realized that the way I mounted the tie rods {the ball joint connecting from underside of the spindle with the screw pointing up} that it bound up the travel of the spindles. I could solve this problem by mounting the tie rod on top of the spindle, but then I noticed I have another problem. The tie rods are making contact with the springs. Really frustrated, the directions FF gives to those using donor control arms really suck.

[Erik W. Treves]

I few pictures of what you have going on might help

[clancypm]

been searching old form posts, it looks like the spindles from the 1996 mustang won't work. why FF didn't tell me that before I went to all the trouble modifying the lower control arms I'll never know. I have many hours involved in getting those ready and put on. Apparently where the tie rods attach to the 96 mustang spindle its too low and not far enough forward.

[frankeeski]

I think what you are experiencing is that the front suspension is at "full droop". Once you get wheels on and the lowers come to the spot where they are supposed to be this won't be an issue.

[Norm B]

The tie rod ends have to go in from the bottom. The hole in the spindle arm is tapered for the tapered stud on the tie rod end. As Frank said, at normal height, there is plenty of clearance.

As for the tie rod getting into the spring, I found two things that prevented this. I made offset bushings to move the coil overs towards the rear about 1/4 inch and I installed rack limiters to prevent the tire rubbing on the F panel and the wheel contacting the lower control arm.

HTH
Norm

[Jeff Kleiner]

What Frank said. Get jackstands under the control arms and set the spring adjusters to approximate ride height then see how it works out---I'm betting much better.

Good luck,
Jeff

[CraigS]

Pictures, Pictures, Pictures, please.

[clancypm]

Just talked to FF and they told me what u said that at normal ride height it wouldn't be a problem as far as the steering. As far as contact I'm wondering if I drill another hole in the lower control arm slightly farther back if that will solve the spring contact problem.I'll try to get some pics on here craig

[clancypm]

ok jacked up control arms,it was better but still both problems still exist. Now the tie rods make contact with lower control arms. Where the tie rod connects to the spindle the spindle connection on the 1996 mustang is lower than the 94-95. I guess they did that to make room for the size of the 4.6 engine. they moved the rack lower also. I'll try to figure out how to post pics on here for u craig

[Norm B]

I had a similar issue with the sn95 spindles and lower control arms. As you can see in the picture the tie rod would interfere with the spring at full lock. Turns out, it is not really a problem when the wheels and tires are on. On mine, the tire hit the F panel before the tie rod got to the spring. Try putting the suspension at ride height with the wheels and tires installed and see if you still have a problem. I installed rack limiters that prevent the tires rubbing and the tie rods from interference.

HTH

Norm

[clancypm]

norm the problem is that the 96 spindle has a lower tie rod connection than the 95 or earlier spindles

[Norm B]

Do they only rub on the lower control arms as you approach full lock or, all the time? If it's all the time then you do have a major problem. I used a set of Breeze offset rack bushings to move the steering rack forward. They also allow you to adjust the rack height and centre position. They might get you enough of a change to solve your clearance issue. A set of1994-95 spindles might be your best solution for a couple of reasons.

Good Luck
Norm

[clancypm]

thanks Norm, I sent a number of pics to Tony at FF and he assures me that I won't have a problem. He said I put everything on right and when is all put together it will work fine. I still had some doubts about it so I ordered steering bounce brackets to put on the spindles from Forte. Those will raise the tie rods up, and I think that will solve the issue.

[AC Bill]

Back when I built my MK3.1, the outer tie rod hitting the spring when the wheels were cranked on builds using donor LCA's, was a very common issue.
FFR never addressed that issue either. It was builders that figured out using different length bushings on the shock mount bolts, (as Norm mentioned), was the way to solve it. It shifted the shock/spring to the rear just enough that they would not rub any longer. With some things you have to figure them out for yourself, or with the help of other builders, as the factory either hasn't run into them, or doesn't want to admit there's an issue.

[clancypm]

I put on the bounce steer tie outer tie rods on tonight. The tie rod now sits on top of the spindle. That solved the problem of the tie rods hitting the lower control arms. They still however hit the springs when I turn the wheel all the way. You and Norms fix will work for sure so think I'm good to go. This weekend hope to get the rear diff., axle and suspension in.