Usable power?

[Kingfish]

Hey everyone,

Years ago I helped a friend build his Mk3, and now that I finally have a garage & the means to buy a kit I'm doing the research. One thing I keep thinking about is the motor, and how much power to put in the car. Obviously it doesn't take much to motivate a 2,000lb car quickly, and I've seen everything from stock 225hp 5.0 cars to 500hp side-oiler powered monsters and everything in between. My limited experience says 300-350hp is the sweet spot for the Cobra, and once you get much past that the car can become twitchy and a handful. My question is, at what point are you just burning up tires because the chassis just can't use all the power without losing traction?

[videodude]

I'm sure I will get flamed for this, but horsepower is a personal need, not one of the car. I am planning on using a bone stock 225hp EFI 302 in my build; it's enough for the donor and more than enough for the roadster. Now, I know I won't be impressive at the shows; don't really care. Had the big blocks in my mis-spent youth, my days of doing wheelies on the street are long over; don't need to do that anymore. I just want to drive and enjoy my car, not work on it all the time. Don't have time for temperamental anymore, got rid of my kids (LOL).

You have to ask yourself a question: what do you really want? Impressive horsepower that you can't use, or dependable horsepower that is more than adequate. A new coyote is a great engine, and certainly more HP than I can use. But, it's at the cost of foot room. My choice of a 302 is also dictated by room in the footbox for my size 13's, and they will be able to breathe a little easier with the narrower engine. I've had the dual quad 427 (Ford, I might add), don't need one anymore. I figure the sound of my little 302 will be impressive enough for me, and frankly I'm the only one that matters.

Happy Decisions!

[DaleG]

I'm sure I will get flamed for this, but horsepower is a personal need, not one of the car. I am planning on using a bone stock 225hp EFI 302 in my build; it's enough for the donor and more than enough for the roadster. Now, I know I won't be impressive at the shows; don't really care. Had the big blocks in my mis-spent youth, my days of doing wheelies on the street are long over; don't need to do that anymore. I just want to drive and enjoy my car, not work on it all the time. Don't have time for temperamental anymore, got rid of my kids (LOL).

You have to ask yourself a question: what do you really want? Impressive horsepower that you can't use, or dependable horsepower that is more than adequate. A new coyote is a great engine, and certainly more HP than I can use. But, it's at the cost of foot room. My choice of a 302 is also dictated by room in the footbox for my size 13's, and they will be able to breathe a little easier with the narrower engine. I've had the dual quad 427 (Ford, I might add), don't need one anymore. I figure the sound of my little 302 will be impressive enough for me, and frankly I'm the only one that matters.

Happy Decisions!

Nicely said.

[Kingfish]

Well put. I recall the original ad for FFR said it would do 0-60 in around 4 seconds or so with the stock 225hp Windsor. By any standard that's damn fast and would be a hoot to drive. My friend's car had a built up 5.0 Windsor in the neighborhood of 325-350hp which I felt at the time was the realistic limit. Was curious to hear opinions from those that have built their own.

[videodude]

The big concern is driver's side footbox room. For those who are "vertically challenged", the modular motors or the Coyote make more power than the 302, but are significantly wider thus reducing footbox room. In my case, I'm 6'4" and a bit over 250lbs; every quarter of an inch of extra room helps. The roadster isn't much bigger than my wife's Miata (wider, but about the same length) and I sort of "wear" the car. The biggest thing I did to help was a smaller steering wheel, which I may have to do in the roadster as well. Making enough room in the footbox is not too hard with the 302, but it's pretty tight with the bigger motors.

It's just something to consider and think about.

[CraigS]

I would up your estimate to include 400hp. For me it's not all about the 0-60 time. It's also nice to feel a good strong pull in 3rd and 4th. I had 400 hp from 2007 until this spring when I went to something in the area of 450 w/ my mild 408. No question, in first and second the tires light up very easily. I am slowly looking at better tires. But 3rd gear from 50-to 70 or 80 is really nice. One other consideration is your throttle linkage. Go w/ a linkage vs cable and tune it for a long travel so the power is easily controlled.

[mikeinatlanta]

My question is, at what point are you just burning up tires because the chassis just can't use all the power without losing traction?

Which gear? :rolleyes:

JMHO: You should be able to put you foot in it without losing traction in one gear, two tops.:D

[6t8dart]

I do agree that it is all personal preference, but I just sold a 550 HP big block Dart that weighed 2900 lbs, it really was too much for what I did with it. Honestly, when I started building the car 10 years ago, it was what I wanted, but age has a way of tempering your speed demon in your foot. I need a nice, fun car that I can drive to work, cruises, and car shows.

I originally was planning to do a stock 225 HP 5.0 motor, but changed to a very mild 306. It has been estimated by a few different people from 275 HP to 325 HP. I believe it will end up just shy of 300 HP.

302 block
.030 9.5:1 Pistons
E-303 cam
Edelbrock RPM intake
Ported 5.0 heads
FITECH 30001 fuel injection

This is my combo for a fun, enjoyable roadster, not for everyone, but it works for me. Later on, if I feel the need to add more power, I have a good short block to add a good set of heads and a cam upgrade.

[Duke]

https://cdn.meme.am/instances/35943260.jpg

[Plebeian]

My question is, at what point are you just burning up tires because the chassis just can't use all the power without losing traction?

It's all in the set up and how you drive it. These are short wheelbase cars and if you drive it like a 16 y/o (think of the "hey, watch this" analogy), then you can get yourself in trouble without trying too hard at almost any power level. If you set the car up properly with consideration to tires, gearing, suspension, and a smooth power delivery, you'd be surprised how much power you can put down. Your initial impressions of a 300-350 hp sweet spot sounds like a good starting point for you and may be all you ever want. These cars are capable of far more power that is usable. Whether the driver is safe using it is another topic altogether. Cheers.

[Dave Howard]

The nice thing about the Coyote is it has very manageable HP. It builds crazy power from 3-3,500 to redline at 7K. So the car is very drive able at lower RPM. Much like a 2 stroke YZ250 though, when you punch it and you hit the "power band", you,re going to make a show.

I'm personally glad I have the extra HP. Tire life and handling is more a function of right foot extension!!!!!

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Agree with Dave. Coyote is very easy to launch so there is no drama unless you are being dumb a** stupid & running up the revs & dumping the clutch. Engine is Jekyll & Hyde. With a generous throttle opening the engine will push you back in the seat at 3300/3500 RPM like a reasonably quick street car leaving the line.

400 WHP, tune, is very nice to have as long as you remember how quickly the snake can bite. Also 20mpg+ saves a lot of gas station stops & all the time it takes to answer questions before you can leave. No its not "REAL":D

[dallas_]

It's all in the set up and how you drive it. If you set the car up properly with consideration to tires, gearing, suspension, and a smooth power delivery, you'd be surprised how much power you can put down.

Exactly. Spend some time on your throttle geometry. Full pedal travel and a smooth torque curve make power delivery much more manageable and therefore safer and more enjoyable.

[2bking]

The big concern is driver's side footbox room. For those who are "vertically challenged", the modular motors or the Coyote make more power than the 302, but are significantly wider thus reducing footbox room.
This was true using the FFR 2015 and earlier modular DS foot box sheet metal but not any more. The new FFR sheet metal follows the same sheet metal lines for the 302's to almost the top of the feet and increases engine room above there. There is another foot box pattern for the Coyote that gets exactly the same foot room as the original 302 design and it is shown in my build thread.

[GoDadGo]

My friend Jerry has a 392 Windsor in a Type 65 Coupe and can't keep the tires on the ground in 1st, 2nd or 3rd and his engine was rated just above 470 HP.
The Chevy Cobra (383 Chevy / ZF-6 Speed) I'm building should put out about 450 HP so we're thinking it will be just as tough to plant the tires as his car.
To put this into perspective my daily driver is a 1995 C-4 Corvette and runs between 12.70's and 13.30's (1/4 Mile), depending on the weather, with only external modifications.
That car is a daily driver and fun to drive, but only has 300 HP and 330 foot pound of torque (Factory Rated), and tips the scales around 3,350 pounds.
If you build a MK-4 with only about 250 HP and 275 foot pound of torque my long in the tooth C-4 will likely be behind you at the drag strip.

[mikeinatlanta]

My friend Jerry has a 392 Windsor in a Type 65 Coupe and can't keep the tires on the ground in 1st, 2nd or 3rd...
That's about right for a four speed car. Maybe needs about a hundred more if a five speed.:)

[dallas_]

My friend Jerry has a 392 Windsor in a Type 65 Coupe and can't keep the tires on the ground in 1st, 2nd or 3rd and his engine was rated just above 470 HP.


Sounds like crappy tires. You do need sticky tires if you have good power. If you do it right, the car can certainly handle 500 hp.

[GoDadGo]

Sounds like crappy tires. You do need sticky tires if you have good power. If you do it right, the car can certainly handle 500 hp.

Nitto NT-05's on the Type 65 and Nitto 555's on the Vette and MK-4.

Altitude is usually +8 or -8 feet so no issues with altitude sickness down here.

Also, Dyno's are nice toys, but making Drag Strip passes is always the best way to test.

[skullandbones]

It's funny that this conversation comes up so often. I think everyone on the forum has probably had some hot rod or muscle car that has been a part of their driving experience. Everyone is different with varying performance driving ability. Personally, I've owned or driven many different cars. The thing is: there isn't another car I've ever driven that is like this roadster. Because of the combination of HP, short wheel base (emphasis on short wheel base) and weight to HP ratio, it reacts to input from the driver differently than anything I have ever driven. You may think you are pretty sharp and pretty quick at the steering wheel but these cars are quicker than you think. What I mean is quicker to change directions on you at the least opportune time. If you have ever had an accident or have come really close to having an accident but barely missed, then you know what I mean. There is a fine line between in control/ out of control with a very high HP roadster. I know of four totaled roadsters in my local area since I have been involved with my MKIII. They all had 400+ HP.

So I'm sneaking up on the sweet spot for me. I started out with 300+ HP and I have pretty much gotten used to that. I will continue to upgrade to the hypothetical goal which will mean changing out the 302 for a 408 with basically the same components. But to tell you the truth, I'm not absolutely sure I will get there as I am working in incremental steps: induction first, then bigger heads, and finally the short block. I love working on engines. I have a feeling I will stop short of the 408 but if I still feel the need at that point, it is an option. I also plan on changing from a 3.27 diff ratio to a 3.55 or 3.70 (would really like something in between). That may also have a significant effect on the way I feel about it. I guess my advice is to know your limitations so you don't end up being a passenger along for the ride instead of the driver.

Good luck on your decision.

WEK.

[6t8dart]

I watched a movie on youtube a few weeks ago talking about the Shelby 427 race cars, one of the guys who drove them (or crew chief maybe?) commented that there was nobody who ever "tamed" a 427. He said that while drivers successfully wring out every bit of performance out of the 289 Cobras, everyone had to respect the 427's, because one slip and they bit you.

It really does come down to personal performance needs vs self preservation needs. I now have a 3 year old son, a wife, and no longer feel the need to risk my life in a monster. I prefer something tamer. Of course, I drive a 485 HP, 8 spd, 392 Challenger every day. However, the car has two sides, its somewhat tame, but can get up and go when needed. I imagine the Challenger (8.5:1) and the MKIV (7.8:1) will have about the same power to weight ratio.

In the end...do what you feel comfortable to you. You can always go with a 427 Windsor, then stick a very mild RV cam in it until you get used to the car, then spend a few hundred bucks and swap out the cam. If you get a self tuning fuel injection setup, you don't even have to worry about tuning.

Some cool videos:


https://youtu.be/4hNoWuTvhgQ


https://youtu.be/Ynl2dJSpEYo


https://youtu.be/59AvDiLovfM

[Real time recon]

Mustang GT EFI 302 w/ some performance parts producing 345 HP and 373 rear is Plenty for me:).......... Also Wt.difference...302= 450 Lbs.........427= 650 Lbs.

[Crawleyscobra]

Definitely a matter of personal preference.
I had Mike Forte finished out my Ford Racing 427W. I told him I wanted it to have a good idle and be streetable with power steering and power brakes. It ended up with 475 hp (FWHP) and 500 ft/lbs. It runs great. Feels like a factory car at normal driving speeds, but becomes a beast when I get on it (AutoCross controlled environment). I have never driven anything like this before so I am learning to drive it and always treat it with respect.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Definitely a matter of personal preference.
I had Mike Forte finished out my Ford Racing 427W. I told him I wanted it to have a good idle and be streetable with power steering and power brakes. It ended up with 475 hp (FWHP) and 500 ft/lbs. It runs great. Feels like a factory car at normal driving speeds, but becomes a beast when I get on it (AutoCross controlled environment). I have never driven anything like this before so I am learning to drive it and always treat it with respect.

This is really the key to the whole how to drive a Cobra & survive. Even coming from very high performance street cars you really need to work up to driving this car quickly safely regardless of horsepower.

Not a believer with this car that a 300whp engine will protect you from having a very bad day if you get careless. A 400whp engine has less power than a 300whp engine if you are light on the throttle pedal. Self control is your friend.

BTW On the NITTO there is a big difference in traction between the 555 & 555R

[GoDadGo]

From my perspective the 555-R's handle about the same as the regular 555's but were a lot stickier.
They did make my C-4 push a bit since the front tires were a harder compound and were tough on the clutch.
Since then I've only run the 555's on all four corners and now have them on my MK-4.

[dallas_]

Nitto NT-05's on the Type 65

I like Nitto's but that tire has a 320 treadwear rating. I'd say that is kind of slippery for a coupe (or roadster) with good power.

[Popsdz]

I have had my car for about 3 years now and I'm still very happy with the power the supercharged 302 gives me. I would like to drive a big block car to feel the difference. Just stuff a motor in and drive it like its a rental or stolen.

[rwantin]

This is a really interesting conversation. It's true it doesn't take much to make these cars a handful. I've always been a more is more guy, but I think my 302 hits the (personal) sweet spot. It's ported, cam, 625 Demon and was dyno'd at 276 hp at the rear wheels, so say 300 and change. It sounds glorious and provides frequent reminders, especially when the secondaries open, that I should replace the older BFG's. :rolleyes:

[Plebeian]

I run the Nitto NTO5R's in the rear and they usually hook quite well on the street with decent handling to boot. I had my boost dialed up a little over 600 rwhp at this Outlaw track and had minimal spin rolling into the throttle on this pass.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jRH7PPGVDY

[Real time recon]

I run the Nitto NTO5R's in the rear and they usually hook quite well on the street with decent handling to boot. I had my boost dialed up a little over 600 rwhp at this Outlaw track and had minimal spin rolling into the throttle on this pass.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jRH7PPGVDY

NICE Launch ! :)

[TMScrogins]

I too am in the camp of personal preference. For me running a Coyote motor (Aluminator XS) - 450 RWHP and fairly sticky drag raidials (NT-555R) I can still easily spin the tires. My high performance vehicles in the past have all been hot rods and this roadster is scarier than all of them put together. The short wheel base really makes for an interesting ride if the wheels break loose. Coming from the hot rod world, I've had the perspective of more power is never enough... Until this car. I don't profess to be a talented driver. Maybe average at best. So for me blending a lot of power with a very light, short wheel base vehicle has been extremely interesting (serious pucker factor). Big power in big cars with long wheel bases, no issues. But his is a whole other animal.

It became very evident that spinning the tires unintentionally equates to a waste of power not being transferred to the ground. The engine was overkill in the car's then current setup and thus made it more dangerous for me. So I installed traction control. Best single upgrade I did to this car. I can now safely put every usable amount of ponies to the ground without the car breaking loose or spinning out. Yet, in a controlled environment I can dial back the measured slip or even disable the traction control all together and have fun breaking it loose. Traction Control has been the variable that has taken some of the scarieness out of a bigger power engine while ensuring the most power makes it to the pavement.

Usable Power? Well for me as much as you can get to the ground safely and that is determinant on a number of factors as others have pointed out, not just HP.

Trevor

[GoDadGo]

I think we all need to look at Horsepower to Weight Ratios a little harder before deciding on our power plant choices.

Most of what we see are ratios as low as 1/7 (325 HP), but many are around the 1/5 Ratio (450 HP) with others pushing past the 1/4 mark (550-Plus HP). Assuming of course we are looking at a MK-4 or FIA that tips the scales around 2,250 LBS.

To put things into perspective, my long in the tooth C-4 daily driver is around 1/10 HP-Weight Ratio and while it is no grocery getter, it most certainly is not a Factory Five by any stretch of the imagination.

Please Just Remember To Watch Your Right Foot Gentlemen, No Matter What You've Got Under The Hood!

[Avalanche325]

The VERY first thing is: What are you going to do with the car? A 1000hp boulevard cruiser won't be useful or much fun. A 300hp one will cruise all day long with reasonable comfort and a full time smile on your face. Autocross, track, or drag will likely leave you wishing for more.
The second is: What is your (real, not imagined) skill / comfort level? If you are respectful and smooth, 500hp is easily usable. If you are a ham-footed pedal masher, 500hp will get you killed. No engine makes 500hp unless you open the throttle far enough.

I have a 500hp 347 and autocross regularly. On more open courses I could put more power to use. However, if I want (or get stupid), I can have the tires spinning on the entire run. That kind of run is wildly fun but very slow. You have to control the car at all times. More HP means more control (self control and car control) is required. I don't find the FFR twitchy or prone to snap-oversteer at all. I think it communicates very well. I think most people don't know how to properly lift off of the throttle when it starts to go away. Lifting all the way, which is the natural reaction, will get you in trouble. Watch some "supercar idiots" Youtube videos and you will see that a huge amount of them are throttle lift induced.

How you get your HP can change the whole feel of the car. So think of what you want your cars personality to be. A Coyote is very refined at 500hp. A 500hp 347 is pretty snotty and is very very loud due to the big cam. A 500HP big block, or big cube small block will not be as radical. My more radical engine works for me ......not so much for my wife though (it is actually too loud, believe it or not). Take that into consideration too.

It seems like some people are afraid of their cars. I have met a couple of Cobra owners that are down-right terrified of them and only take them to shows because of it. That is a real shame. You should get yourself to the point where you are not afraid, but respectful. In my opinion, the best way to do that is to take your Cobra and autocross it. You will learn so much about the car that you will never learn on the street. I think that every Cobra owner should do 3 autocross events as a safety measure. I thought I was driving hard, but I didn't spin until my 3rd event. Then I learned to dial it down a hair and get faster.

I am also a fan of using only ultra performance tires. Tires affect everything. Acceleration, braking, handling, and accident avoidance. Maybe 300+ treadwear tires are OK if you really do only cruise. I, myself, am not mature enough to never open the throttle up. No matter what, you can't stop too fast or swerve out of the way of someone on their phone.

[Jester]

It's all a preference of budget and what you are going for.

X2 on Coyote as a great choice. I have the complete kit with 3 link, 17's with Sumatomo's, Coyote and tko 600. No issue with grip in a straight line stat - fantastic hook up but can break loose if you want to lite em up. Broke the rear loose at 70mph one day though when I kicked it to get a tailgater off my Axx. Need to be aware of the power going around corners though - but quite tame and predictable.

With the Coyote - the power is available when needed otherwise it drives with the reliability and stability of smaller ECU engines. Great on the highway as well.

I am thinking of upping the HP with the FRPP Boss intake - more is always better. My wife says I drive like an old man (now 53 so perhaps I am an old man) but it is nice to punch it once in a while and lite it up!.

[Dave Howard]

The BOSS 302 intake will rob torque at lower rpm. If you're going to put it on, consider a trip to the dyno to tune for the change. If you have about $8,000 mad money consider the Whippel 2.9 supercharger. That should do the trick for another 100-125HP and the appearance will set you ahead of all the other Coyotes out there.

Wishing I had the mad money,
Dave

[Bob Cowan]

There's no such thing as too much power. Only not enough control.

I drive a car with over 600 dyno proven horsepower. It's docile, well mannered, and easy to drive. Putzing around town, or tooling down the highway are easier than driving an old Mustang. It even gets 20mpg.

But, stomp on the go pedal and it screams like a banshee and takes off like a rocket. It's more fun than should legally be allowed. :)

a HP number means almost nothing. How the engine and drive train are built mean everything. High compression, huge cams, big turbo's, low gear ratios, etc, can make the car difficult to live with during normal driving, and difficult to control under heavy foot application. But build a big powerful engine with a broad flat torque curve, and it's a real hoot to drive.

[Real time recon]

No need for speed.I swear this thing looks like its doing mack 3 in my garage :)

[Kingfish]

Thanks everyone for the input; lots of good points made. I hadn't considered a mod motor, but a great point was made about its excellent low-rpm driveablility until you get up into the rev range then it screams. But couldn't you get the same result with a Windsor and an upper midrange cam? My idea for the car is a fun street driver with the occasional trip to an auto-x event, so I don't forsee the need for ludicrous power. Also agree (from my limited experience driving one) that this is a car that must be respected, and a lead-footed driver will end up in the weeds.

[rwantin]

That this is a car that must be respected, and a lead-footed driver will end up in the weeds.

Or on YouTube :D

I think the respect thing is the most important, regardless of the numbers. I respected it from Day One, but of course, I still have fun with it.

[jimgood]

I think Craig hit the nail on the head. From 0 - highway speeds, a modest amount of HP is fine and entertaining and far better than most OEM cars. But in higher gears at higher speeds, more HP is better if that's what floats your boat.

[mikeinatlanta]

Sure glad we got this issue resolved. :D

[dallas_]

Sure glad we got this issue resolved. :D

Mike, you are exempt from this discussion. :)

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Thanks everyone for the input; lots of good points made. I hadn't considered a mod motor, but a great point was made about its excellent low-rpm driveablility until you get up into the rev range then it screams. But couldn't you get the same result with a Windsor and an upper midrange cam? My idea for the car is a fun street driver with the occasional trip to an auto-x event, so I don't forsee the need for ludicrous power. Also agree (from my limited experience driving one) that this is a car that must be respected, and a lead-footed driver will end up in the weeds.

You can get a similar result to some degree but the ECU control gives the car much more seamless flexibility. Its more precice all through the rev range.

As an example I have two tunes I use for the Coyote. Most used is my 93 octane daily driver performance tune. This had a lot of power in the upper ranges with sufficient low end torque to get solid consistent launches & excellent street drivability at low speeds.

As most people know the Coyote even through side pipes has a p***ycat idle without much hint of how strong the engine real is. For Car shows & Coffee & Cars days I have what is known as a Ghost Cam tune. It replicates an full race 427 idle. It works by the computer opening the exhaust valve early while adding overlap & duration to the valve.

This is possible because the 4 cam shafts are individually infinitely adjustable across a broad range. This adjustment is controlled real time buy the ECU program. This is a novelty tune & generally pulls some power out of the entire band but it does make for an entrance to a show.

[GoDadGo]

It's really fun to see everybody's idea of the Perfect Cobra Replica.

For some it's over the top raw power, for others it's a vintage small block with Webbers, while others go for sophisticated power plants wrapped in a vintage looking car. For the very, very few, it's moving over to "The Dark Side" and adding a 6th gear to so that the car is happy at the drag strip and top end too.

How cool it is to see what our imaginations come up with as we build our Perfect Cobra Replicas.

[cChrisM]

I'm in the mod motor camp. Start with a nice platform that can be upgraded as you progress in your ability and sensibility. I still love Wayne's XTerminator. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/251257-sergio-please-graduate-xterminator-grad-no-26-a.html

video:
http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/Mark%203%20point%205/VID00033.mp4.html


start with the basic motor, add supercharger, then when ready to go crazy feed the supercharger with twin turbos. Make sure you lower the boost to make it streetable. :rolleyes:

[Avalanche325]

Thanks everyone for the input; lots of good points made. I hadn't considered a mod motor, but a great point was made about its excellent low-rpm driveablility until you get up into the rev range then it screams. But couldn't you get the same result with a Windsor and an upper midrange cam? My idea for the car is a fun street driver with the occasional trip to an auto-x event, so I don't forsee the need for ludicrous power. Also agree (from my limited experience driving one) that this is a car that must be respected, and a lead-footed driver will end up in the weeds.

Yes you can do it with a Windsor, no problem at all. Completely dependable, streetable and easier to work on. They sound better at idle too!
My 347 is on the nasty side. I cruise abound town. Did a 650 mile rally a couple weeks ago. Take it auto-crossing. Take my wife out to dinner. I wouldn't think twice about driving it coast to coast. I would just have to let it warm up for about two minutes.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

It's really fun to see everybody's idea of the Perfect Cobra Replica.

For some it's over the top raw power, for others it's a vintage small block with Webbers, while others go for sophisticated power plants wrapped in a vintage looking car. For the very, very few, it's moving over to "The Dark Side" and adding a 6th gear to so that the car is happy at the drag strip and top end too.

How cool it is to see what our imaginations come up with as we build our Perfect Cobra Replicas.

Interesting choice of words. I did/am doing a build thread on a non Cobra auto site. Title is "Gone very far to the Dark Side"

[GoDadGo]

Interesting choice of words. I did/am doing a build thread on a non Cobra auto site. Title is "Gone very far to the Dark Side"

Please Post Pics!

[mikeinatlanta]

No need for a 6th gear if you build your Windsor to turn 8,000. :cool:

[GoDadGo]

No need for a 6th gear if you build your Windsor to turn 8,000. :cool:
8,000 RPM's is way outside of the operation range for my little 383 Chevy.

Everything is set to run between 2,300 - 6,500 RPM. At 2,300 RPM the car will be traveling 95.39 MPH so good fuel economy should be possible. On a stupid note, if this little motor can maintain 4,800 RPM in 6th gear, then it will be going 199.08 MPH.

On That Note, Where Is Dick Smith When You Need Him?

Hopefully With God In Paradise!

May God Bless You Mr. Smith!