Seriously Considering switching to a FITECH EFI setup

[6t8dart]

My fuel system has become more expensive than planned. I think its time to reconsider what I am doing, I originally decided that I did not like the look of the 5.0 efi setup, so I decided to switch to a Quickfuel carb, but as I'm putting the fuel system together, I am realizing that the costs are not that different. My engine combo is .030 over 302 with an E303 cam, Performer RPM intake, and mild ported heads. I will probably be making 300 hp max, so I do not need anything too crazy for induction.

So far this is what I have:

$329.00 Quickfuel 670 Carb
$ 75.00 Pressure regulator
$120.00 Misc AN fittings
$ 60.00 Fuel log for Carb
$ 15.00 Pressure gauge
$599.00 TOTAL

I had originally wanted to go with another EZ-EFI system like my previous car, but the cost of that system is almost $2K. I gave up on that idea for a carb for a long time...but recently I saw the FITECH systems. So I have been thinking...how much more would a FI system cost me?

$795.00 Go Street EFI 30003
$ 0.00 Built in pressure regulator
$-75.00 Rebate
$720.00

I think this seals the deal, I am going to return my carb, regulator, and fittings to Summit and order a FITECH unit. Anyone have any experience with this company? I am probably going to have to take a chance, but it makes a lot of sense to me.

[Gordon Levy]

You still need a complete high pressure EFI fuel system.

[rich grsc]

An E cam isn't well suited to a carb style fuel system.

[6t8dart]

You still need a complete high pressure EFI fuel system.

I have one already.

[6t8dart]

An E cam isn't well suited to a carb style fuel system.

Why not? Its the mildest Ford Racing cam they have, its only 220 duration @ .050. It should pull good vacuum and idle smooth.


FEATURES

Duration @ .050" Lift: 220° 220°
Valve Lift: 0.498 0.498
Lobe Lift: 0.311 0.311

Improved Street Performance
Great for Naturally Aspirated Mustangs
Hydraulic Roller Lifter
CARB EO Number: D-225-16
Sold Individually
For 1985-1995 5.0L with 1.60 Rockers
DESCRIPTION

Street Performance. This Ford Racing cam is a great replacement choice for excellent Low and Mid Range Torque, and a Good Idle. The Ford Racing E303 Performance Camshaft is also a great choice for naturally aspirated 5.0 Mustangs.

Installation Note: This Ford Racing E303 Performance Camshaft requires upgraded valve springs for proper operation. Valve spring requirements: 120 lbs valve seat pressure minimum 295 lbs open. For stock cylinder head applications, the use of Ford Racing M-6513-A50 valve springs installed at 1.820" are recommended. For use with aftermarket cylinder heads, Ford Racing M-6513-BH valve springs are recommended.

Application. The Ford Racing E303 Performance Camshaft is designed for use in the 1985-1995 5.0L V8 Mustangs with 1.60 rockers.
Technical Notes. Ford Racing recommends the use of a Hi-Stall torque converter for Mustangs equipped with automatic transmissions.

[frankeeski]

Application. The Ford Racing E303 Performance Camshaft is designed for use in the 1985-1995 5.0L V8 Mustangs with 1.60 rockers.


You answered your own question when you highlighted the application. The E cam is designed for long runner EFI intakes. It will work just fine with a carb or a carb style EFI system but you are sacrificing performance when you could get a more suitable cam at or near the same cost. Talk to Gordon about the cam, he has custom grinds just for these EFI and carb setups.

[6t8dart]

Frank. I personally don't agree with your assessment, having built several engines in the past that use similar profile cams, I found that lift/duration/separation profile worked well on mild street engines. Im sure you have experiences that reflect your views, as I have mine, we can agree to disagree on this instance.

Regardless, My question was about people's experiences with the FITECH unit. The cam is installed, engine is buttoned up, dropping in a week as soon as I get a few parts. I don't plan on pulling the engine apart now. I really wanted a mild cam anyway, looking at the cam specs, its similar to the one I used on two different 360 Mopars I built a few years ago. That was a good mild street engine with a smooth idle. On the contrary, I have built engines with too much cam, I always ended up adding milder cams. Big lift, long duration cams take the fun out of driving around town. As I get older, my butt dyno likes smooth and refined engines.

[MPTech]

Have you talked to FiTech?
I noticed you are looking at the EFI 3003.
When I researched this, for the EFI 3001 & 3002 kits they HIGHLY recommended a MSD Pro-Billet distributer.


Ignition timing can be controlled and adjusted on the fly from your touch screen controller
Air Fuel ratios can be optimized on the fly as you drive! Try that with your Carb

Don't know if this is applicable for the 3003.

[6t8dart]

No, the 30003 does not have timng control. Not sure that I need it though. I am being realistic, I don't need some of the features of the better units.

[frankeeski]

Frank. I personally don't agree with your assessment, having built several engines in the past that use similar profile cams, I found that lift/duration/separation profile worked well on mild street engines. Im sure you have experiences that reflect your views, as I have mine, we can agree to disagree on this instance.

Regardless, My question was about people's experiences with the FITECH unit. The cam is installed, engine is buttoned up, dropping in a week as soon as I get a few parts. I don't plan on pulling the engine apart now. I really wanted a mild cam anyway, looking at the cam specs, its similar to the one I used on two different 360 Mopars I built a few years ago. That was a good mild street engine with a smooth idle. On the contrary, I have built engines with too much cam, I always ended up adding milder cams. Big lift, long duration cams take the fun out of driving around town. As I get older, my butt dyno likes smooth and refined engines.

Honestly dude? Agree, disagree I don't really care. As Rich pointed out and I commented on with the quote from your post, the Letter cams from Ford were designed for the 1985-1995 Mustangs with the long runner manifolds. Don't shoot the messenger. Nowhere did I say you needed a higher lift cam or one with a crazy idle. As I stated, it will work just fine but for the money spent on a Letter cam from Ford, you could have gotten a better cam, tailored to your engine requirements. Perhaps next time I'll keep my advise to myself when posting on one of your questions since you don't want anything other than a confirmation of your specific question. Sorry I bothered you.

[stack]

I have been watching Fitech for some time now. They look to have a great product and i plan on using them on a future project. Give them a shot. Their base kit is 795 good for 500hp I think.

stack

[6t8dart]

Yes, I think it just makes too much sense...I think I made the decision to go for it. I may have to wait till the beginning of May to pay for it, but returning the carb and fittings will offset the cost, now if I could only find the box to the regulator.

[6t8dart]

I called Summit Racing today and was told the FITECH 30002 was now back ordered to August. I switched to the 30001, it has a slightly better June delivery date, but they said they can't guarantee the delivery dates on any of them. :(

[hgcars]

I have a 30004 on order, for mt coupe, with an estimated shipping date of May 26th.

Harold

[Dale Claytor]

I called Summit Racing today and was told the FITECH 30002 was now back ordered to August. I switched to the 30001, it has a slightly better June delivery date, but they said they can't guarantee the delivery dates on any of them. :(

It took me about 6 weeks to get a FiTech EFI directly from FiTech. You will definitely like this system better than a carb. It's easy to install and easy to tune and FiTech's tech support is outstanding. I previously had a Quickfuel 680 carb and then first generation EZ-EFI and then back to the carb. The FiTech is way better than either. You won't be disappointed.

[6t8dart]

The FITECH has arrived, actually it was Tuesday, but today I had to play with it and put it on the engine. Sorry, I tried to post pics, but the uploaded keeps failing.

[Joe Campbell]

Cool! Post your progress with it - hope your experience with it is as trouble-free as mine has been so far. Starts learning and improving as soon as it gets up to temp.

[myrtille2004]

Le us know your progress, my Fitech is schedule to arrive next week...finally. I had to ditch the external pump since it's now push to mid July. I have ordered an internal fuel pump instead.

[6t8dart]

I finally got the pictures to upload

54405

54406

[myrtille2004]

I finally got the pictures to upload

54405

54406

I like the look with your chrome filter cover. I have ordered the same Fitech, 30001. I was not sure if I wanted the black one instead (30002), it was backorder until June.

Let us know if it's working as expected, and if the setup is not too hard with the handheld controller.

[myrtille2004]

I just received my Summit package today with my FITECH 30001. It sure smell gas... I will install on my engine when I will have time, but I still have work to do like install the sidepipes and have the O2 sensor welded in the headers. I really like the chrome look, since I wanted the black in the beginning. The chrome give a more vintage look. To follow.

[6t8dart]

I smelled the fluid when I got mine. It's actually purge fluid, it's used in aircraft engines after run in, it gets rid of flammable fuel and makes it legal to ship.

[rwantin]

Watching this thread with GREAT interest.

My 302 was built to a similar spec, it's an 89 HO, ported, etc. Except it has an F cam and a 625 Demon carb.

I LOVE the engine, seems to start easy enough, and sounds absolutely glorious at mid-high rpm. But here's the thing - it is impossibly rich at idle, so much so that it is visible (light smoking from the pipes). Platinum tips seemed to have helped (a little), I have messed with float levels and the like, to no avail. Granted, some of this is due to the nature of the beast, as it were, but I also wonder if some of this is a function of the cam. I've been pondering how this could be improved.

I know a little, but I suspect most of you folks on this thread will forget more than I will ever know. Would I benefit from the Fitech system?

[6t8dart]

You would benefit from and fuel injection system based on my previous car. I had a very lumpy roller cam in a 432 ci (426 .040 over) Mopar, I ran the EZ-EFI system on it, i did have to make some modifications to the idle air bleeds, but it would idle all day long without loading up. the EZ system was at its absolute max capacity at around 550HP, but there are tricks for tuning them up to 650HP with some tweaks. I believe the FITECH has a much better idle circuit and fuel feed than the EZ, and I have heard that it usually will pick up a few HP after it tunes itself. The FITECH also seems to have a little more tunability, as well as having the option to step up to a unit with more fuel capacity. I think for your engine, either system would work well, but depending how lumpy your cam is, you may want to stick with FITECH, as they have the ability for running love vacuum signal. I have yet to run my unit yet, but based on what others experience, it really has a few years of improvements over the second generation EFI's that started the self-learning units.

[RickP]

This is a great topic and one that's been on my mind since undertaking rebuilding a 302 I pulled out of an 87 5.0. First off, I could never get my head around the look/engineering of the mustang FI setup. The upper plenum on a 5.0 is down right ugly, heavy and removing/re-installing just to get at a fuel injector or hose is a nightmare.

My original direction was to top off the 302 with a Holley Avenger after much research. Since then, a lot of new players have gotten into the game including FITech, F.A.S.T. just to name a couple. I scrapped the Avenger route after a call to Holley. It's antiquated technology wise and the replacement unit is the Terminator which up until a month ago, I was going to go with. Although it comes with a heavy price tag, it is, in my opinion, the bar that all others try to achieve in self learning EFI systems.

Of course, one has to ask themselves "what do I really need" when about to drop $1,800.00 to $22,00.00 on the Holley. That price tag warrants a very careful review of the situation. Has me looking very closely at the more affordable options out there such as the FITECH. I will mention Holley will be coming out with a new unit early fall 2016 which is meant to compete with the other offerings out there.

Please post your experience with the FITECH. Ease of installation, did you have to re-work your fuel delivery, tune-ability, upgrade-ability, how long does it take to "learn", and product support is what I am interested in. It's one of my favorites and much easier on the wallet than a Holley Terminator.

[rwantin]

Thanks much 6t8, color me intrigued. Again, great topic. Oh, and lumpy is an understatement. I'm guessing some of my neighbors might be thinking I am housing a top fueler in the garage. :)

[Joe Campbell]

Got some info about the install and video of startup on my build site here:

https://sites.google.com/site/ffr7859/april16-finalupgrades

All I've done so far is play around with idle settings a bit...very happy with is so far!

[RickP]

Got some info about the install and video of startup on my build site here:

https://sites.google.com/site/ffr7859/april16-finalupgrades

All I've done so far is play around with idle settings a bit...very happy with is so far!

that is downright SWEET! Correct me if I'm wrong but your supplying fuel to either side of the unit? Appears to be two fuel rails and connecting looks to be really simple.

[Boydster]

that is downright SWEET! Correct me if I'm wrong but your supplying fuel to either side of the unit? Appears to be two fuel rails and connecting looks to be really simple.

The fuel pressure regulator is internal... one line is pressure, the other is return.

[RickP]

The fuel pressure regulator is internal... one line is pressure, the other is return.

Thanks Boydster, looks like the Auromotive bypass regulator I just spent last weekend installing is not needed being the regulator is internal to the unit.

[Joe Campbell]

Boydster is correct - one corner is a designated return line. The standard setup I'm using (throttle lever on driver side) puts the return on the passenger side rear corner of the unit. You can run the feed line into any one of the other three corners (to allow for reverse setups w/ throttle lever on passenger side.

[RickP]

Boydster is correct - one corner is a designated return line. The standard setup I'm using (throttle lever on driver side) puts the return on the passenger side rear corner of the unit. You can run the feed line into any one of the other three corners (to allow for reverse setups w/ throttle lever on passenger side.


Joe - I noticed your feed/return line setup is being tapped off a block of some sort. This is exactly what I need to do in in place of the currently installed pressure regulator (since it's already in the FITech unit). Can you tell me more about the setup? Did you make it? Is it a purchasable fuel distribution block?

[6t8dart]

Joe - I noticed your feed/return line setup is being tapped off a block of some sort. This is exactly what I need to do in in place of the currently installed pressure regulator (since it's already in the FITech unit). Can you tell me more about the setup? Did you make it? Is it a purchasable fuel distribution block?

It looks like it's a bracket with a couple of bulkhead fittings. I would keep the fittings to a bare minimum, the less chance for leaks.

[Joe Campbell]

It looks like it's a bracket with a couple of bulkhead fittings. I would keep the fittings to a bare minimum, the less chance for leaks.
Correct. This was a retrofit - I had a MassFlo system originally, that is where the regulator terminated. Fabbed a bracket and used the bulkhead fittings and short lines to get the length needed. Unnecessary complexity if you haven't run your lines yet.

[RickP]

Correct. This was a retrofit - I had a MassFlo system originally, that is where the regulator terminated. Fabbed a bracket and used the bulkhead fittings and short lines to get the length needed. Unnecessary complexity if you haven't run your lines yet.

Thanks Joe,

I have lines run from the feed/return hard lines to a Areomotive bypass regulator. If I don't need the regulator ( and it appears I don't), I will just cut new lines and go directly to the FI unit from the hard lines. Cut out the complexity as you say. I agree with 6t8dart, the less fitings the better. Only down side is a couple of holes in my fire wall but I'm sure I will end up putting something else there to cover them up!

[Dale Claytor]

Hi all, installed the FiTech Go 8 a couple of months ago on a SBF 347 Stroker. Previously had the first generation EZ-EFI so already had feed and return lines installed. After several months of constantly having to reset and retune the EZ-EFI, couldn't get the bugs worked out, so ditched it. Installation of the FiTech and initial start up was a snap. I am using the FiTech ignition control and an MSD 6AL ignition box so had to lock out and phase my MSD distributor. Instructions for the lock out and phasing came with the FiTech, it appears complicated, but it's not. Once the lock out and phasing is done, and base timing is entered into the hand held, actual engine timing at idle and 4000 rpm's is calibrated using a timing light to match the readings on the handheld and away you go. Had to do some tweeking of decelaration fuel parameters on the FiTech to keep from stalling after deceleration from high rpms, but other than that, no issues. FiTech support is outstanding once you get through to them on the phone. They (Brian or Cody) will walk you through the menus on the hand held to help tune out any issues you may have, which should be few, if any. I am completely satisfied with the FiTech. It's a smart system, so be patient with it. The longer you give it to "learn", the better it performs. And one major note, with a carb and the EZ-EFI I had serious idle fuel smell, so much so it would saturate my clothes and burned my eyes and my wife was constantly complaining about it. This has been totally eliminated with the FiTech :)

547135471254711547105470954714

[RickP]

Hi all, installed the FiTech Go 8 a couple of months ago on a SBF 347 Stroker. Previously had the first generation EZ-EFI so already had feed and return lines installed. After several months of constantly having to reset and retune the EZ-EFI, couldn't get the bugs worked out, so ditched it. Installation of the FiTech and initial start up was a snap. I am using the FiTech ignition control and an MSD 6AL ignition box so had to lock out and phase my MSD distributor. Instructions for the lock out and phasing came with the FiTech, it appears complicated, but it's not. Once the lock out and phasing is done, and base timing is entered into the hand held, actual engine timing at idle and 4000 rpm's is calibrated using a timing light to match the readings on the handheld and away you go. Had to do some tweeking of decelaration fuel parameters on the FiTech to keep from stalling after deceleration from high rpms, but other than that, no issues. FiTech support is outstanding once you get through to them on the phone. They (Brian or Cody) will walk you through the menus on the hand held to help tune out any issues you may have, which should be few, if any. I am completely satisfied with the FiTech. It's a smart system, so be patient with it. The longer you give it to "learn", the better it performs. And one major note, with a carb and the EZ-EFI I had serious idle fuel smell, so much so it would saturate my clothes and burned my eyes and my wife was constantly complaining about it. This has been totally eliminated with the FiTech :)

547135471254711547105470954714

Hi Dale - what size fuel pump are you running? In-line or in-tank? I have a Breeze 155LPH in-tank pump installed and the tech at FITech advised me I should be running a 255LPH pump. Thanks for posting your experience with the FITech.

[Dale Claytor]

Hi Rick. Installed an in-tank Walbro TIA485-2 450 LPH electric fuel pump from Amazon and the In-tank EFI fuel pick-up from Factory Five to mount the pump in the tank. Had to modify/cut the bottom of the FFR EFI fuel pick-up for the Walbro to fit but was really easy to do with a hack saw and since the FFR EFI fuel pick-up is designed for the FFR fuel tank it fit perfectly. The FFR supplied wiring harness had the fuel pump wiring already routed to the gas tank so all I had to do was splice the FiTech fuel pump wire into the FFR wiring and hook up the fuel feed and return lines. I looked at the Breeze in-tank fuel pump kit but decided to go with the larger Walbro pump to support future upgrades, if that ever happens :). Total cost was about $180.00. Hope this helps.

[rwantin]

Thanks for the post Dale, I am now even further intrigued and encouraged. :)

[kevingib]

What is that air cleaner you have pictured? I am going to build a custom 33 Hotrod and will be going Fi-Tech or Fast and that air cleaner rocks. Was planning on just a simple Cobra one but I absolutely love this one.


Hi all, installed the FiTech Go 8 a couple of months ago on a SBF 347 Stroker. Previously had the first generation EZ-EFI so already had feed and return lines installed. After several months of constantly having to reset and retune the EZ-EFI, couldn't get the bugs worked out, so ditched it. Installation of the FiTech and initial start up was a snap. I am using the FiTech ignition control and an MSD 6AL ignition box so had to lock out and phase my MSD distributor. Instructions for the lock out and phasing came with the FiTech, it appears complicated, but it's not. Once the lock out and phasing is done, and base timing is entered into the hand held, actual engine timing at idle and 4000 rpm's is calibrated using a timing light to match the readings on the handheld and away you go. Had to do some tweeking of decelaration fuel parameters on the FiTech to keep from stalling after deceleration from high rpms, but other than that, no issues. FiTech support is outstanding once you get through to them on the phone. They (Brian or Cody) will walk you through the menus on the hand held to help tune out any issues you may have, which should be few, if any. I am completely satisfied with the FiTech. It's a smart system, so be patient with it. The longer you give it to "learn", the better it performs. And one major note, with a carb and the EZ-EFI I had serious idle fuel smell, so much so it would saturate my clothes and burned my eyes and my wife was constantly complaining about it. This has been totally eliminated with the FiTech :)

547135471254711547105470954714

[Dale Claytor]

Hi Kevin. The air cleaner is Holley 64280 - Holley Hi-Tek Twin Sidedraft Air Cleaner. I think they are actually made by Weiand. JEGS and Amazon carries the Holley version, Summit carries the Weiand version. You can also get them on EBay. Both are the same except one says Holley and the other Weiand on the side draft plates.

[Dale Claytor]

Just a quick note if using the FiTech ecu to control cooling fan - the FFR fuse box has a fan relay in it that can be used for the FiTech to control the cooling fan. Unlike the FiTech fuel pump wiring, which doesn't need a relay, the cooling fan wiring requires a relay. . .

[kevingib]

Hi Kevin. The air cleaner is Holley 64280 - Holley Hi-Tek Twin Sidedraft Air Cleaner. I think they are actually made by Weiand. JEGS and Amazon carries the Holley version, Summit carries the Weiand version. You can also get them on EBay. Both are the same except one says Holley and the other Weiand on the side draft plates.

Thanks so much. I appreciate the quick response

[RickP]

Hi Rick. Installed an in-tank Walbro TIA485-2 450 LPH electric fuel pump from Amazon and the In-tank EFI fuel pick-up from Factory Five to mount the pump in the tank. Had to modify/cut the bottom of the FFR EFI fuel pick-up for the Walbro to fit but was really easy to do with a hack saw and since the FFR EFI fuel pick-up is designed for the FFR fuel tank it fit perfectly. The FFR supplied wiring harness had the fuel pump wiring already routed to the gas tank so all I had to do was splice the FiTech fuel pump wire into the FFR wiring and hook up the fuel feed and return lines. I looked at the Breeze in-tank fuel pump kit but decided to go with the larger Walbro pump to support future upgrades, if that ever happens :). Total cost was about $180.00. Hope this helps.

That helps immensely. Thank you.

[Dale Claytor]

Just got an email from JEGS. Edelbrock now has the Edelbrock E-Street 2 EFI System for $1699. Looks an awful lot like the EZ-EFI and is still a bit pricey. . . . compared to the FiTech.