Dash Placement

[karlos]

Trying to mock up the dashboard. Not sure as to the vertical placement on the dash hoop (build manual is a little vague on this). Is the placement as shown below about right? Thanks.



http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52559&d=1460221170

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52560&d=1460221170

[6t8dart]

I have not gotten to that stage yet, but the manual says that 3/8" on each end is correct, and that the center, does not match the ends.

[karlos]

Right, 3/16". Maybe this is what manual is trying to say.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52566&d=1460227654

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52565&d=1460227653

[CraigS]

Do some searching here and the other forum. I don't think there is a 100% accurate answer. Couple things: 1- Don't count on running screws through the dash into that tube. If you do, the body will cover them and you will never be able to remove the dash w/o moving the body. 2- Because this isn't a defined position, many builders do not wrap the vinyl/leather around the aluminum at the top. Just leave it sticking up straight beyond the edge of the aluminum so it can cover gaps.

[carlewms]

Because you don't know the exact position of the body from the hoop most also recommend not attaching it until you have a chance to check the position with the body on the car.

[edwardb]

The ideal way to locate the dash is with the body in place. But often that isn't possible or practical. Having said that, I think you have the dash placed too high. The covering will add slightly more height. You are correct the dash hoop isn't quite symmetrical or an exact match to the dash top outline. My experience and recommendation is to locate the dash flush or just slight above the dash hoop at the center. Then use a level and mount it level compared to the chassis. I suspect you will find it's not exactly the same on each side. Another thing you can do is stand directly at the front center of the chassis and compare the top profile of the dash to the profile of the firewall.

My completed Mk4 came out like this and the current build is almost exactly the same. Both were located with the body in place first. PS side slightly below the dash hoop at the corner but roughly flush going toward the center:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2418_zps6cc9b38c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2418_zps6cc9b38c.jpg.html)

DS slightly above at the corner:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2419_zps5e3d8ede.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2419_zps5e3d8ede.jpg.html)

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Agree, don't fix it in place till the body is on. After that there are as many solutions as there are builders. I have a Coyote with some computer hardware that I might need access to behind the dash so easy removal was at the top of the list.

Solution was not to screw in the top of the dash but let it float free held by the body lip. Bottom is screwed to an under dash shelf sold by Mike Everson. The shelf is riveted to one of the lower chassis square tubes. 4 screws hold the dash to the shelf. A fabricated console Parts by Whitby Motor Cars wedges the dash tight to the body. 4 screws hold the console to the transmission tunnel. Wires in both the dash & console are long enough to move both pieces out of the way without unplugging anything. Full access to all instruments etc.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=53488

[ThickCobra]

This topic is a very timely. I plan to drop the body on the frame this coming week to check a few things, and in particular the dash position. First, would you advise to have the frame to body bulb seals and foam weather strip around the engine compartment in place to get an accurate dash position? It appears we are working with sixteenths of an inch here and the seals could throw off measurements. Second, do you recommend the dash be covered with the provided foam-backed vinyl, or whatever one is using, before positioning?

I hope I'm not over thinking this.

[j.miller]

We go through tis all the time. Where you have the dash at the ends of the dash hoop is perfect....now, trim that point down. Make a gentle arc from where the dash peeks above the tube for 3 inches inboard. So many cars show up with the body being held up by that point. Trim the rolled edge back to .5 inch past the radius of the curve so you have a gap between the rolled edge and the dash. If the body is pinching the dash in place....then the body is not where it needs to be.....trim the back of the **** pit the same...da Bat

[ThickCobra]

Got it. Thanks.

[edwardb]

This topic is a very timely. I plan to drop the body on the frame this coming week to check a few things, and in particular the dash position. First, would you advise to have the frame to body bulb seals and foam weather strip around the engine compartment in place to get an accurate dash position? It appears we are working with sixteenths of an inch here and the seals could throw off measurements. Second, do you recommend the dash be covered with the provided foam-backed vinyl, or whatever one is using, before positioning?

I hope I'm not over thinking this.

What I read on the other forum for my first build, and I've done each time since, is to place the body for the first time without any of the bulb seals or cushions. With it properly positioned, check for any high points where something is closer to the body that everywhere else. Some suggest running a felt marker around all the panels with the marker held flat on the body which helps to identify any high spots. Trim or grind as needed. My Mk3 took several adjustments. The Mk4's haven't required much. Then install the bulb seal and all should fit OK. The cushioning along the hood isn't critical for fitting IMO. It mainly just fills the slight gap. The body is held up by the firewall and front quick jacks. During this process you can confirm the proper location for the dash. Doesn't matter whether it's covered or not IMO. It shouldn't be so close that the thickness of the covering makes that much of a difference. If it's not covered, just allow a little extra space.