How long and at what cost to build a Roadster?

[CRAZYBOB]

Hey, I figured I would just start adding all of those questions that have been answered numerous times, but have no longer been answered... :cool:

[Gordon Levy]

It can be complete for as little as $25K and 100 hrs. Most cars are $30K+ and 300hrs. It really depends on the car you want to build.

[Darren]

1 month to 10 years
$22,000 - $150,000

[Steven K]

1 month to 10 years
$22,000 - $150,000

Getting uncomfortably close to the 10 year mark, but nowhere near the $150,000 mark, more like low $30s.

[HIRISC]

Gordon/Darren are correct, there can be quite a range.

A specific example: mine will run about $50K and I'll have 400+ hours into it, without paint.

FWIW, I'm am in no hurry whatsoever - on purpose.

[Darren]

Along the lines of HIRISCs post. My kit arrived in October of 2009 and I'll probably have about 45k into it when done without paint. I'm nearly to the gokart stage.

[DMW]

I have about $32,000 in mine and I tracked every penny. It took me about 18 months in total. Donor disassembly and parts cleanup was about 2 months. Getting the Roadster to a rolling frame was another 5 months. Getting the wiring done (I used the donor harness) was about a month. The rest of the time was mainly bodywork and final assembly. I did all of my own bodywork and paint prep and I spent a lot of time getting it perfect.

This was the first time that I ever did anything more complicated than changing the oil in a car but it all worked out great.

[BigLeo69]

i throw the reciepts in a drawer for the auto parts stuff
and the major reciepts i put in a box.............the box is for sale right now if you want......................could be the first sale on the new forum
guess the price and you can have the box
started mine in april of 2009
work was slow got a lot done made a roller by august
then the engine........a year about
now work is slow again but parts are few
maybe a go-cart coming soon
hope to be road worthy by late spring
legal this summer, i pray for that but work is sh!t right now, so bills come first
good luck

[Jeff Kleiner]

While building I did like Leo and put all of my reciepts in a box. After the car was done I set the box on fire.

Jeff

[cobrathegreat]

I wish I had set my box on fire!!!
I totaled most of my receipts and....well I went out for drive in my roadster and forgot all about it!!!

(to the subject, apr. 2 years and $40+k with pro. paint job, hardtop etc.) Loved every minute of it!!!

[jcurti2]

TOO LONG AND TOO MUCH

Seriously, I am in the same boat as Hirisc and Darren. I am at 2 years now and plan to be done before end of summer or sooner and will be in the upper 40s.

[Howard]

The concept of a F5 build has really changed over the past 10 years. It used to be all donor builds and getting out for under say $25k with a nice build. Now more and more, folks are ending up with $35k to $50k cars, rather than $20k to $35k cars. Some of the builds are really fantastic - there are fewer and fewer builds that look like the guts of a foxbody have been thrown into a frame with little or no prep work. I guess that's a good thing - I think it puts FFR roadster on a higher level than SPF, BDR, etc etc - very few of those builds have the frame and racing background that FFR has.

[frankeeski]

I guess I fall into the thrown in the monkey guts crowd since I am just under the $20K donor build mark. Mine is still running gelcoat but I expect to be in at between $25K and $30K. Although I disagree with the statement, I do believe that you can get a quality build done for under $30K with careful planning and smart shopping. Frank

BTW, They are ALL donor parts, some of them just never made it on to a Mustang or other Ford vehicle.

[efnfast]

I did mine in 2yrs. Can't count the hours, but they were quite extensive - when I started I had 0 mechanical background (never even changed oil my entire life), so I had to put in the hours to match the learning curve. I remember at one point when i started doing wiring I was on the verge of tears and wondered if maybe I should just sell the car because I was struggling with step 1 - "strip wire insulation" ... WTF do you mean strip wire?????? huh?????? So when a lot of people say 2yrs here, they mean a few hours here and there during that time frame - I was more like 5-6hrs/day, everday, catching up.

I ended up spending around 80kish but it was worth it. Of that, I figure $8k was waste

$1k wasted in polishing panels - i bought a lot of supplies, lol

$1k wasted in broken parts - I broke a lot of stuff (like when I sheered the heads off ALL the bolts that held the Wilwood hats to the rotors .... oops! I didn't a 12pt socket that fit the bolts, so I just used my wrench ... end result $100 for bolts instead of a $5 socket)

$6k wasted in NCPainter carbon fiber panels. This one really burns me given how the forum highly recommended him. The work i saw from him was junk. The clearcoat had multiple runs everywhere, there was contamination between the carbon and the clear and although I paid for carbon fiber panels, he just epoxied carbon onto my aluminum panels. And what's worse than that is when he bonded the epoxy on allt he panels warped to an incredibly degree (e.g., straight panels were all of a sudden bent at a 30* angle), making them completely useless. and ontop of that I had to re-buy all the aluminum I'd sent him to make "molds" from since they were useless (couldn't sandblast the crap off and use them). And to top it off, some of the epoxy&clear is peeling (I kept the panels in my garage to remind me of my stupidity). I feel sorry for anybody who had their car painted there - a clear lack of prep skill was shown, as well as painting.

Apparently "Please use my aluminum panels to make carbon fiber molds" equates to "please cover my panels with epoxy that will peel over time, increase the weight of the panels x2, and warp them so they are completely useless'

[JJ'snakepit]

I guess I fall into the thrown in the monkey guts crowd since I am just under the $20K donor build mark. Mine is still running gelcoat but I expect to be in at between $25K and $30K. Although I disagree with the statement, I do believe that you can get a quality build done for under $30K with careful planning and smart shopping. Frank

BTW, They are ALL donor parts, some of them just never made it on to a Mustang or other Ford vehicle.

I have been working on mine 2 years and four months, just taking my time and loving every minute of it. So many modifications. I have noticed that because I am taking my time that, I have a tendency to deviate from the original plans and adding things that cost extra. I haven't been keeping close records but I figure I will be just above $30,000 mark with paint. I couldn't even guesstimate the hours, as slow as I work.. My first post on the the new forum... JJ

[UpstateCobraGuy]

It took me about 5 years to "complete" mine, but I have a family and all the obligations that go with it. In other words, everything else came before "the car". Gordan Levy knows what it takes to build one of these cars but I have no idea "how many hours" I have into mine, I'll just say "Lots".:mad: Great project, yes you will make mistakes, as efnfast has made light of, but when all said and done you will have a very cool car. :cool: Just try to keep the "KISS" principle in the forefront of your build. Original Cobras are very simple beasts, if you want something that drives like a BMW, please go buy a BMW.:rolleyes:

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o287/YYYMMMAN2/pix4.jpg

I have about 30K into mine with very little donor parts, low mile Explorer 302, bell housing, '98 spindles, and parking brake handle. Everything else is new.

HIH, Pat

[BigLeo69]

i wasted time prepping and painting my engine bay panel only to later cut the drivers up and move it, and cover it all with heat shielding........Dahhhhhhhhhhh:o
did a drivers footbox mod for more room had the layout all complete. engine is in started to put my headers on, well there is more room, but i missed the angle of the dangle by maybe an 1/8 of a freakin inch, #8 tube just touches the footbox and its 1/8" aluminum plate.
today i am cutting something i just got done, well at least i thought i got done. just another set-back:rolleyes:i can move the pedals forward and still get a hole saw in there, i will be making a depressed area for it. isn't that depressing, he he he

[Joee]

About 25K and its been over 3 yrs. I don't get to work on my car more than 10 to 15 hrs a week.

[vaquero]

MY Mk III non-donor build took about 9 months at a total cost of 30K. The car assembly took about 200 m/hrs. The body work, fitting, and paint took me about 250 m/hrs. This cost does not include any tools or equipment (I was in aviation for over 40 years and didn't need to buy hand tools, air compressor, MIG welder, air tools, body tools, paint guns, etc.). This did include purchasing a new T-5 WC , a new 3:55 8.8 rear end and a complete 306 from the Engine Factory.

Mk III #6268

[CapeCoralCobra]

My donor Mk 3.1 build net cost was about $23K, with around 1800 hrs involved in just over a year. I worked on the donor parts (cleaning/rebuilding/refurbishing every part) and rebuilt the 302 for 3 months before the base kit arrived. The bodywork/paint/wetsanding & buffing took just over 3 months. I did 99+% of the work myself, including fabricating a number of parts. Check it out here - http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264427 - to see what is possible even on a budget. Its not extravagant, but is a clean, dependable car with much attention to detail.

[03SC]

If you look at my signature it will give you an estimate of what I have into this thing and it's not painted yet (this summer). I've been at it for over 2yrs part time or when I have the time I should say. Will have it done and graduated by 2012 though, soon as I get back from deployment.

[Cobradavid]

My kit arrived July 8, 2008 and I graduated May 29, 2009, so my build took a little under 11 months. I did a donor build, using a 2001 Mustang GT. All together, I have about $35k in it (including body and paint).

David

[Rscocca]

I stopped adding at 60k.
Still adding to car today,
This winter upgrades includes Gordon headers and side pipes and clutch, Radiator shroud, Hidden stereo, new heads Brodex 210, new rims from Richard Oben, oh and a complete tear down of engine to find broken retainer from rocker arm.
Quiet winter for me :)

[F5RSN8K]

It took me about 18 months and a good 35k to finish. I probably could have done it for less But I spent to much time on the forum and saw allot of things I thought I couldn't live without. I would do it again if I could.

[neilmathieu]

Being Canadian, I bought a complete kit Mark IV , all available options from FFR, 351W stroked 427 and TKO 600 from Engine Factory, others parts no available at FRR from Withby, HTC Racing and Finish Line : Parts and TAXES = +/- $66,000.00 , no bodywork, no paint and I estimated 15 hours a week for 30 weeks. I hope ride at 100K all completed.

[bohemianway]

Six Sigma spoiler, I got very lucky in finding an unstarted kit and an unfinished donor (the guy was restoring a GT and put all new parts in it so my build is essentially a non-donor build since all parts are new). At this point I am at $11k with speedhut gauges, heat, wipers, rear discs, etc. before body work and paint. The plan is to keep it under $15k when completed.

[BigLeo69]

I stopped adding at 60k.
Still adding to car today,
This winter upgrades includes Gordon headers and side pipes and clutch, Radiator shroud, Hidden stereo, new heads Brodex 210, new rims from Richard Oben, oh and a complete tear down of engine to find broken retainer from rocker arm.
Quiet winter for me :)
hey Bob are those headers of Gordons a better match to the heads as far as port size and do they use the outer bolts that may come with some heads, my RHS have them but the hookers only got the stock bolt set-up, i hate the hookers and how hard it is to bolt the SOB's up. was going to PM ya but you aren't set-up for that.

[Bob Russel]

My budget is 40k. I have spent 37.5k already so I am going to have to do the body work myself and hopefully figure out a way to get the body through customs so that my cousin who only lives about 30 minutes from my house but in Canada can paint it. This will keep me within my budget. There is another thought to the painting and that is that there are body shops that will rent out their paint booths, so that might end up as a solution instead of dealing with the US/Canadian customs.
I ready on another post a while back where by someone broke the cost down by miles. For me that is a great way to justify my spending and look at it as a way of reducing my cost per mile. Just think, my first 1,000 miles will only cost me $40 per mile.

[ratdog]

MKlll FF#5501 427w Roller,TKO 600,Hydroboost Brakes,Heidt's Adjustable PS valve, 4 wheel cobra disc,355 gears, Moser axels,ISIS Intelligent Multiplex System ,heated seats. NC painter, paint and body work,leather everything
$60,000 plus

[Bradford Drummond]

My roadster build was right at 90 days, minus paint. Drove it for a year in white primer And took it off the road for 2 weeks for final paint. I got a great deal on a donor with the relatively new engine And the total receipts were barely over 20 grand. I've made a few changes over the years But the basic building is still the same after more than 8 years.
My coupe has been a different story!!!!!

[jim1729]

I'll be at about $60k and 300 hours spread across 8 months when done. Very few regrets.

Things that really add to the 'base' price:
427w, PS, PB, T56 Magnum, IRS, Injection

[Glory Bound]

My non-donor big block build took two years, about 400 hours and approximately $53k in it so far now that it is set up for autocrossing this season. I blew my original budget about half way through the build, had intended to sell it before I even picked it up, could not get close to our money out of it (imagine that), and am now enjoying the heck out of driving and racing it. This car is truly scary fast (thank God for rev limiters) even with a very mild cam and around 350 hp at the rear wheels. Now that I have a seat heater even driving in 25 degree weather is fun.

[markesmith]

Mine was delivered May 12, 2006, spent year before refurbishing 86 GT donor. In the end the engine was no good, bought a crate motor from Forte's, really wished in hind sigt I had just bought everything new. Only donor parts that made it into the final product were the rear end, transmission, fuel tank and wiring. Last I added up the quickly fading receipts I was just over $45,000 with paint. Took me 2 & 1/2 years to complete the car, I did everything except the final body work and paint. Had a deal with my wife for most of the build, Saturday's were mine, Sundays were family day. Snuck in a few hours during the week if I got home early enough from work. Fantastic experience! Looking to do it again if and when money is available. Relied heavily on the other forum for help from a ton of members, couldn't have done it with their help. Has really paid off, met with a new client and we got talking about FFR , sold him a new build of a home based on the fact that the client had been to the build school at Mott and decided against building his own, saw mine and said if you can build that you are building my new home.

Mark
Naples, Florida

[efnfast]

hey Bob are those headers of Gordons a better match to the heads as far as port size and do they use the outer bolts that may come with some heads, my RHS have them but the hookers only got the stock bolt set-up, i hate the hookers and how hard it is to bolt the SOB's up. was going to PM ya but you aren't set-up for that.

They should be able to be port matched - last I checked Travis had a jig for making them. I was a bit worried initially because of the fact my FFR headers/sidepipe didn't fit the cutouts, but these fit just fine so the jig must be fairly accurate.

In terms of bolt installation (but how many times do you plan on doing it?) the passenger side is easy to access the bolts. The driver's side is easy except for 2 of them that are a real SOB to get ... but can be gotten to with a bit of patience and creativity.

Plus the headers sound really good =) -> deeper than the stock setup (and louder if you don't run with the inserts) and some seat of the pants improvement. I don't know how much because I never dyno'd the originals, but these felt like they gave more Oooomph and are probably one reason why I'm close to 500rwhp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcWrcpzioxY

[ksamson]

Very nice Alan, I like how you stuck to your budget and did the work yourself. If am in the process of getting all of my pieces and parts and then order the kit and begin the build. Alan, did you use gauges from your 88 donor and do you recommend that. Also, tell me about your wheels.

Thanks

[skullandbones]

6046 is still in the garage but on wheels (over 4 yrs into it). I believe subconsciously I have delayed the build to spread out the cost a little. I have also benefited in some nice deals by being patient. But for the most part, lack of expertise has caused me to go very slow (plus you would be surprized how other matters can trump the project for priority). I will be under 25k with paint. I will be driving in gel coat before the fifth yr hits. I can say the work looks solid if not perfect.

I can't get over how varied the $ figures and time vary across the board. WEK.

[Number 6]

I'm hoping to be able to order a kit next summer, maybe early fall. I've been reading the different threads and this is a rough estimate I've come up with how much it'll probably end up costing me. (your results may vary). So, I'm figuring it'll end up costing around $42-45 grand. As for how long it'll take to build? I guess that really depends on hard you work. i did a nut and bolt restore on a E-Type Jag roadster. That took over 10 years... I'm hoping a Cobra kit will come in a little less than that.

Factory Five:
MKIV Complete kit: $19,990
Vintage Factory Five/Smiths Style Gauges $199
Headers: 302 ceramic coated 4-port $599
Body with cut-outs $129
Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 17" x 9" All Four $1,099 + S/H

Forte's Parts:
Forte' Budget Engine package approximately $7875
Complete 8.8 rearend fox $1,610

Other (Approximate):
Tires $800
Paint $5000-8000?
Miscellaneous
(wood for body buck, tools, upgrade parts, etc…) $5000

Total: $42301

[LuckyWinner]

I have everyone beat on cost. Only $12,000 and thats with all new parts, buts thats why they call me "Lucky" LOL

[3kcarbon]

While building I did like Leo and put all of my reciepts in a box. After the car was done I set the box on fire.

Jeff

Jeff Kleiner for President! The Grand Poobah is always right!

[BigLeo69]

I have everyone beat on cost. Only $12,000 and thats with all new parts, buts thats why they call me "Lucky" LOL

wow Lucky stick the knife in and turn a couple times........he he he he
are you back home wrenchin now

[Arch]

It took 2 years from delivery to a completed car. I figure about 1,000 hours total including about 400 sitting and trying to figure things out plus the time on the forum trying to figure things out. Time well spent!

Cost? Ha! Figure the basic kit with a couple of upgrades like leather seats, koni's, etc. delivered at $14K or so, plus SRP's paint job at $8K or so and I was well into the $20's before buying all the new, non donor parts, engine, TKO, rear end, wheels, etc. and it will make your teeth hurt. I didn't even bother to put the receipts in a box for burning, I just tossed them out as I went along. My best guess, including my mistakes? Mid $50's. Worth it? Yes, every penny. With 10,000 miles, many new friends, and a fantastic sense of accomplishment these aren't just cars, they are enhanced reality.

Arch

[AJ Roadster NJ]

I'm a few pennies over $40k right now without paint on my non-donor Roadster. Didn't cut any corners, there is not one single part that I would do over on my running go-kart. If there were one part I wished I had done differently, I would order the new one and make the change next time I get out there (and I've done that in the past). Working the body right now to save some $$ and hope to be on the road in the spring. We are not are not ARE NOT going to talk about how long I've been working on it...family, work, building a house, and a honey-do list that stretches to Mexico always conspire to keep me out of the garage. But I get a few hours in here and there.