Trunk lid support

[Jimbo1965]

52175Next item on the agenda is going to be a rear trunk lid support.
The only offerings I have seen is from Breeze, which look fine, but was wondering what other options are out there?
I have the exterior chrome trunk hinges on the car.
Appreciate any input that can be given.
Thanks!

[GoDadGo]

I'm planning on using a Hood Support for a 1st gen C-4 Corvette. 1984-1986 (C4)
I'm going to Deano's Corvette Salvage to see if I can find a used one.
If not, I'll be ordering a new one from Ecklers.

Part #: 25-123296-1
Replacement for OE #: 14069647
Price: $107.99 ea.

[Gumball]

I went old-school on mine and used an original style locking support from Cobra Restorers... it's also available from just about any British car restoration place.

It's attached to the lid via a small aluminum block with studs that is bonded to the lid and to the trunk opening lip by a couple of screws that pass through a reinforced part of the body (and which is further supported from the underside with an "outrigger" of sorts that I fabricated out of a small piece of stainless steel tubing with the ends flattened.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20150529_222242819_zpsofdopmmq.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20150529_222242819_zpsofdopmmq.jpg.html)

[GoDadGo]

That is so much like the C-4 Corvette piece it's not funny.
Thanks-O-Million, because I'm now looking at other options too.
Just checked that website and it is 1/2 the prices.

[Jeff Kleiner]

For Mk4s with the undermount hinges or earlier cars with Breeze hidden hinges you can't beat Mike Everson's (Replica Parts) gas struts. I've used them on a few cars and they work perfectly! For the Mk3 and earlier with exposed hinges he also offers a gas strut version of a different design. Check out his site.

Jeff

[edwardb]

For the external hinges, I like the setup from Mike Everson at Replica Parts. http://www.replicaparts.com/new%20style%20trun%20support%20kit%20page.htm. Here it is on my Mk3. Works very well. Edit: Jeff beat me, but at least I had a picture. :p

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Finished/IMG_0318_zps1b29ed79.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Finished/IMG_0318_zps1b29ed79.jpg.html)

[Norm B]

I used this one from Finish Line https://www.**********accessories.com/p-136-prop-rod-trunk.aspx. I drilled out the rivet for the lower mount and reversed the mounting bracket. This allowed me to attach it under the edge of the trunk opening. I used a pin switch for the forward mounting bolt to operate the trunk light.

HTH
Norm

[canuck1]

I had a similar setup to Mike Everson's on my original MK III body. I was just wondering what necessitated the change in the mounting position for the gas struts with the MK IV? I understand the interior hinges but I had interior hinges on my MK III and still used the 'older' style trunk strut kit. Is the angle of the dangle that different with the Mk IV trunk lid? I'd prefer not to give up the forward trunk area to the struts on my Mk IV body if I can.

Sean

[michael everson]

Sean. you can use a mark 3 style on a mark 4. The mark 4 is different because of the shape of the hinges. It allowed me to hide most of the kit. it really doesn't take up much trunk space at all.
Mike

[canuck1]

Thanks Mike,

I understand now. your trunk strut kits are really dabomb!

Sean

[chopthebass]

What is the length & kg/LB of the gas struts on the Mk4 kit?

[TMScrogins]

What is the length & kg/LB of the gas struts on the Mk4 kit?

I have Mike Everson's kit which works great. His kit is supplied with 40# gas struts. I actually found that they were a little light. I replaced them for 50# struts from SuspaParts.com with same dimensions as supplied by Mike. Part# is C16-18833 for the replacement 50# strut. Perhaps their website has length particulars.

Trevor

[chopthebass]

Thanks TMS. 16" and 50LB.

[2bking]

What is the length & kg/LB of the gas struts on the Mk4 kit?
I used 2 30# struts and they work just fine for me. They won't lift the trunk open but will hold it after it's up.

[rmiller64]

I purchased Mike's kit for MK IV and loved the easy installation but the 40# struts won't hold the lid up. I'll give him a call to discuss

[2bking]

I purchased Mike's kit for MK IV and loved the easy installation but the 40# struts won't hold the lid up. I'll give him a call to discuss
I designed my own so the pivot points may be different. I picked the location on the hinge arm that would give the maximum open force with the lid fully open. My hinge arm is the one that has a full arch so the gas strut attachment point may not be as restricted as some other shapes I've seen. I purchased the struts based on the lid weight and force needed. The math seemed to work when it was assembled. More weight than I have at the license plate area will have a big effect on the force needed to hold it open.

[rmiller64]

I designed my own so the pivot points may be different. I picked the location on the hinge arm that would give the maximum open force with the lid fully open. My hinge arm is the one that has a full arch so the gas strut attachment point may not be as restricted as some other shapes I've seen. I purchased the struts based on the lid weight and force needed. The math seemed to work when it was assembled. More weight than I have at the license plate area will have a big effect on the force needed to hold it open.

Thanks King. I have the latest hinge brackets and mounted per instructions. I'll talk to Mike about moving the location on the hinge

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I also went lighter on a set of Mike Everson struts for my MK4. Anyone interested Mikes originals, just used for a test fit, PM me. Yours for the cost of shipping.

Same as 2bking. My new ones will not lift the lid but will hold it open with no issues.

[edwardb]

My Mk4 #7750 has the older style semi-circle trunk hinges. I installed Mike's Mk4 trunk strut kit and located the pivot points on the hinges exactly where the instructions said. Before paint, the struts held the lid up OK. But after paint, license plate, etc. not so much. If the car is on a level surface and the temp is relatively warm, the lid will stay up when placed up. But a little down hill or cold temps and it won't stay up. I'm not going to put in heavier struts though. The geometry of the setup with those hinges pushes against the hinge when it's closed, and I've really struggled to get the trunk aligned into the opening. I'd be curious if the newer style more square trunk hinges work any better in that regard. That's what my new build has. For now, I'm not planning to use the struts with it. Probably will do the latching style prop from **********.

[DaleG]

Some (myself included) find that with the "heavier" struts they will "pop" the trunk open, but also lift the front (toward the pass. compartment) deck lid up proud of the body when closed.

[edwardb]

Some (myself included) find that with the "heavier" struts they will "pop" the trunk open, but also lift the front (toward the pass. compartment) deck lid up proud of the body when closed.

That's what I was describing in my post. The front of the lid sits a little proud of the body. Except it's with the provided struts.

[2bking]

Some (myself included) find that with the "heavier" struts they will "pop" the trunk open, but also lift the front (toward the pass. compartment) deck lid up proud of the body when closed.
I had that problem but figured out it wasn't the struts making it happen, it was the inability to adjust the trunk/hinge properly with the struts hooked up due the 8 zillion degrees of adjustment the double slots provided. I put spacers in the rear slot of the hinge to force the screw to the highest point and it became a pivot point for adjusting the other screw. It made the adjusting process easy.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I dropped the strut pressure & dialed the trunk lid in without the struts hooked up. So far so good after 5 months. Had the original setup with the lid correctly installed by Whitby during painting.

Left front corner had popped after a few months driving & I struggled to get it back in place.

[DaleG]

I had that problem but figured out it wasn't the struts making it happen, it was the inability to adjust the trunk/hinge properly with the struts hooked up due the 8 zillion degrees of adjustment the double slots provided. I put spacers in the rear slot of the hinge to force the screw to the highest point and it became a pivot point for adjusting the other screw. It made the adjusting process easy.

King, I can't visualize; can you snap a pic, please? I'd sure like to get the lip down flush with the body.

Cheers, Dale

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Dale my quick & dirty without the strut hooked up. Set the hinge to trunk bolts by eye, lid slightly high, then tightened them down so the lid had some resistance to moving in the hinges. Closed the lid then pushed it down into place with the palm of my had.

Opened it very carefully so as not to disturb the hinges & tightened them down. Hooked up the struts for a look see. Two tries & I had a good alignment of the lid & deck. Replaced the struts & have been good to go since.

Expect the guys who actually know what they are doing might have a better way to get this done.

BTW there are 2 hinge sets for the MK-IV lid. I have the older rectangular cross section parts.

[2bking]

King, I can't visualize; can you snap a pic, please? I'd sure like to get the lip down flush with the body.

Cheers, Dale

Dale, I can't take a picture because there nothing to see with it assembled. I made a drawing that might illustrate it better. I found on mine that one of the bolts in the hinge arm needed to be at the highest point to make the lip on the trunk lid clear the body but trying to leave the bolts just tight enough to allow movement as Kevin described never allow the precise adjustment I needed when trying to push against the lid seal and the strut pressure. I made a insert for the slot on the hinge arm to force one bolt to the top of the slot thus it became a pivot point for the other. This doesn't remove any alignment freedom except the beginning arc of the upper trunk lid lip as it rotates away from the body with the opening of the trunk. As the bolt gets lower in the slot the upper lip starts to scrape the body as the lid opens thus it needed to be at the top. This drawing is not to scale but it contains the general shape of my hinge arms. The first is the hinge arm.
52313

This one is with the insert. Mine had to go in the slot pictured to get the adjustment range needed.
52314

I left the bolts just tight enough to hold the position but I could move it with pressure with the lid closed. It made the adjustment very easy like 5 minutes instead of the hours I spent trying without it.

[edwardb]

I was pretty sure after I read your first response that this is what you were describing. But the pictures and further description help a lot. What a great idea! I will be doing something like that. I too really struggled with the adjustment. First getting it to the right location, and then keeping it from moving while tightening the bolts. I can see how this would really help. Thanks for posting.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Just an additional thought. Not sure how it would have worked out on mine but my bolts wound up on a different place than the one using the fixed location for one bolt.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=53404
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=53403

Also, the bolts on the right are not mirror images of those on the left.

[2bking]

Just an additional thought. Not sure how it would have worked out on mine but my bolts wound up on a different place than the one using the fixed location for one bolt.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=53404
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=53403

Also, the bolts on the right are not mirror images of those on the left.
Kevin, thanks for the picture, it illustrates where the bolts end up when the lid is adjusted and mine looks similar. The rear bolt is in the upper location of the slot similar to where the insert would place it. You could force it to that location and still have enough adjustment latitude to get the lid properly adjusted. The location in the slot, top to bottom, only changes the arc path the edge of the trunk lid follows as it is opened. Too low in the slot makes the upper lid edge drag on the body opening.

[DaleG]

Got it! Thanks King and Kevin.