Door skin Finishing techniques?

[dougkirkbride]

I was wondering what people are using besides the flathead washered sheet metal screws across the top of the black skin as shown in the attached picture.
52138

I saw what wayne did with the nut clips on the bottom which is nice but would like to do something hidden at the top where they are so visible........ any ideas?

thanks
Doug

[billjr212]

I was wondering what people are using besides the flathead washered sheet metal screws across the top of the black skin as shown in the attached picture.
52138

I saw what wayne did with the nut clips on the bottom which is nice but would like to do something hidden at the top where they are so visible........ any ideas?

thanks
Doug

I used the screws as shown in the photo, but only 2 of them. 1 in the front corner (effectively hidden by the windshield) and 1 in the back corner.

Only trick is you need to get the angle of the lip to match the door nicely or you end up with a gap. Heat gun before installation helped with this.

When I eventually paint the car, I may pop a 3rd screw near the middle to prevent any movement, but haven't seen any need for it in the meantime.

Oh, I also added 1 screw in the face of the door near the leading edge (so just under the dash, basically). This goes through the door panel into the aluminum panel. Helps limit any flex when you use the door pull (I usually shut the door by grabbing the top of it anyway).

Sorry, I know this isn't quite what you were looking for, but just thought I'd throw the comment out there.

[RM1SepEx]

heavy duty velcro or that thick 3M adhesive tape

[Kurk818]

I cut off the return flange with a cut off wheel to allow the top end to sit flush and used 3M double sided tape to stick it. Worked great and looks great.

[STiPWRD]

I cut off the return flange with a cut off wheel to allow the top end to sit flush and used 3M double sided tape to stick it. Worked great and looks great.
Got pics? I'd like to do something similar.

[Kurk818]

I do not at the moment. The return flange im referring to is at the top of the door. You'll need to cut at the corner as it transitions to the side door latch area. There i pushed the panel back a bit so there are no gaps and scribe'd the back of the panel to match the fiberglass door lines. I epoxied 90* aluminum tabs to the inside with squares of double sided tape to hold the door panel to the door. Tabs were installed at about 6" spacing. Full length aluminum angle was installed at the bottom flat portion of the door where it is flat and painted black to conceal the lack of door panel we all are experiencing. All of the gaps are tight and there are no gaps between the fiberglass skin and the door panel. Im happy with it.

[STiPWRD]

Ok I think I get the gist, thanks! Are you worried at all about the velcro breaking off the aluminum tabs if you have to remove the door cards? You must've reinforced them well. I do like the idea.

[Kurk818]

I did not use velco. But yes, your assumption of them breaking off is correct as i had a few that broke during the install. I ended up roughening the fiberglass nicely, cleaning it then drilling a hole in the tab to allow epoxy to flow through it. I will reinforce with fiberglass mat if i ever end up opening it up again. So far so good tho.

[07FIREBLADE]

I did the same as Kurk with a slight variation. Instead of epoxy I used 3/16 rivers and instead of aluminum tabs I just used the full length of angle. Keep in mind though I have the HT and need the additional support for the window slot. My panel is tight once bolted all together.

[RM1SepEx]

I'm more concerned with the bottom, FFR provided me with that black vinyl that sides over the fiberglass door skin, I used 10-32s into screw/nut clips on that return li8ke Wayne did, but the vinyl strip makes it drag when closing the door. Did anyone make the outer door skin thinner so it doesn't drag across the door opening?