windshield fitting

[chopthebass]

OK, before you lay into me I have read the manual but it doesn't go into much detail about fitting windshield.!

With the body on, how are you able to mark and drill holes? let alone tighten the nuts. Should I do all this with the body off? I wanted body on to fix the angle of the windshield.

Any help is appreciated.

[oldguy668]

You can reach the mounting areas to mark the holes with the body on. Make sure both windshield posts are flat against the mounting plates or you'll introduce a bending force that will eventually crack the glass. You can bend the arms below the body surface or use shims and washers.

[Norm B]

The passenger side is fairly easy to reach but the arm is too long and will need to be trimmed. Make sure the body is as close as possible to its final position before marking the holes. The driver's side is way more fun. I put my fuse box on a hinge to allow easier access to the area. Thought I had a picture of the driver's side but can't find it. Here is one of the passenger side.

HTH
Norm

[skullandbones]

After locating and marking you holes, drill and tap for 3/4 in screws. You will save yourself so many hassles down the road. I can take my wind shield out in about 5 minutes after I lower my dash which is on hinges. I don't need to worry about the fuse box on the driver's side. I gives you so much peace of mind knowing how great a mod it is! I didn't invent it but I sure took advantage of it. Unless you are using a soft top, the angle will be close enough if you keep the frames parallel with the mating chassis rails edges.

Good luck,

WEK.

[CraigS]

I throw away the lock nuts. I use standard nuts, one on top of the other. It is so hard to get your hands in there that turning those locknuts all the way in w/ a wrench is way too time consuming. W/ standard nuts you can run them on by hand and only need a wrench for the last two turns or so. This is nice since you will be taking them on and off a few times to get your location and spacer washers correct. Leave the double nut off until you are completely done.

[ThickCobra]

Great advise from all of you. I'm not quite there with fitting the windshield on my anniversary, but I've taken note of your interesting mods and attachment time savers...double nuts. Skullandbones, if you've posted your hinged dash mod, could you direct me to its posting. Also, I am working thru the Russ Thompson self-canceling turn signal stalk and need to find a place to locate a bit of additional wiring (and diodes, etc.).

Thanks

[Jeff Kleiner]

I always cut 3" from the bottom of the arms for both sides. On the PS it will hit the footbox top; on the driver's side it won't hit anything but will stick down into the box so there is no reason not to get it out of the way..

#1 most important thing when doing the windshield installation is to not squeeze the side bars inward when attaching it to the chassis. Get it into position and add shims to take up the gap between the side bars and frame. You do not want to use the mounting bolts to pull the side bars inward to the chassis because it will stress the glass which I'm convinced is the leading cause of cracked windshields. The glass must stay relaxed. So you're not having to fumble with trying to keep washers in place while also installing the bolts and nuts stop by the paint/body supply store and pick up some door & fender shims for 1/2" bolts. They are "U" shaped with enough material on closed end that you can grasp to slip them into place to snug the windshield arm to chassis fit after getting the bolts started.

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQa5I6QkQZFUN6iFfTZXzFIaCXTHzG KOdk4O0bp8L9ELva4fOdljtb9CyoAPtC9pRT93mBDiK8&usqp=CAE

Several in a variety of 1/8" and 1/16" thicknesses will do it.

The easy way to do the passenger side is with the tire and splash panel off working from the wheelwell---beats the heck out of leaning over the fender working from the engine compartment. There is no easy way for the driver's side but I've found that what works for me is using a 12" long extension with a universal joint socket coming from the middle and a wrench holding the nut on the backside. If you pull the dash end out from behind the door hinge access is easier. It's a pain, not 3 hours worth of a pain but still no picnic.

Good luck!

Jeff

[chopthebass]

Excellent. Thank you.

[Gumball]

Here are a few of my threads on preparing and fitting the windshield. I didn't consider the assembly to be a finished product until I disassembled it, cleaned things up, and prep'd the frame before reinstalling the glass:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11445-Windshield-reasemmbly-and-fitting-to-chassis-hoping-to-avoid-cracks

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8069-Windshield-Gasket

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8815-Lower-Windshield-Frame-to-Cowl-Bracket

Also, this pic shows how I twisted the frame below the body to ensure that it laid flat against the mounting point on the chassis:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/PassSideTwist_zps5865c95f.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/PassSideTwist_zps5865c95f.jpg.html)

And this pic shows the spacers I made to replace the washers I used in the mock-up. The spacers bolt to the chassis using small screws from the back-side that are flush on the outer part that contacts the windshield frame legs:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20130915_175621_zps033e999c.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20130915_175621_zps033e999c.jpg.html)

[FFinisher]

I always cut 3" from the bottom of the arms for both sides. On the PS it will hit the footbox top; on the driver's side it won't hit anything but will stick down into the box so there is no reason not to get it out of the way..

#1 most important thing when doing the windshield installation is to not squeeze the side bars inward when attaching it to the chassis. Get it into position and add shims to take up the gap between the side bars and frame. You do not want to use the mounting bolts to pull the side bars inward to the chassis because it will stress the glass which I'm convinced is the leading cause of cracked windshields. The glass must stay relaxed. So you're not having to fumble with trying to keep washers in place while also installing the bolts and nuts stop by the paint/body supply store and pick up some door & fender shims for 1/2" bolts. They are "U" shaped with enough material on closed end that you can grasp to slip them into place to snug the windshield arm to chassis fit after getting the bolts started.

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQa5I6QkQZFUN6iFfTZXzFIaCXTHzG KOdk4O0bp8L9ELva4fOdljtb9CyoAPtC9pRT93mBDiK8&usqp=CAE

Several in a variety of 1/8" and 1/16" thicknesses will do it.

The easy way to do the passenger side is with the tire and splash panel off working from the wheelwell---beats the heck out of leaning over the fender working from the engine compartment. There is no easy way for the driver's side but I've found that what works for me is using a 12" long extension with a universal joint socket coming from the middle and a wrench holding the nut on the backside. If you pull the dash end out from behind the door hinge access is easier. It's a pain, not 3 hours worth of a pain but still no picnic.

Good luck!

Jeff


There is a guy on Cape Cod, that threads the windshield post, So you can screw your 1/2 bolt into the windsheild arm, rather than fumbling with nuts and washers in the back side or fumbling around above the fusebox. Works awesome.

#1 most important piece of info here is to make sure the winsheild is shimmed so there is no pressure on the glass, This will elimnate the cracking problem.

[chopthebass]

I like the idea of threading the windshield support arms.