Art's 818 build

[aquillen]

Jake - thanks - good info !

[beeman]

Art-
Loved reading through your thread! Thanks for sharing some great ideas, you have me thinking about a couple of things. Looking forward to seeing your sequential tail lights. Keep up the great 818 build!
Dave

[aquillen]

Wrapped this bit of the project over the last few days. The black headliner is a very thin vinyl with diamond embossed pattern from my local upholstery fiend.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506363/Headliner_01_yvuvw2.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506363/Headliner_02_guhzyj.jpg

I bent the ceiling aluminum plate so it has a strong upward bow. Will put a couple metal clips on the left and right sides near the front edge to trap it. Some foam up underneath to kill rattle. Firewall will also hold it in place. Glued with the DLT Litebond 2065 Landau adhesive I mentioned before.

[aquillen]

Examining the air channels I found a number of water leak opportunities. Spent some time locating and sealing these up, or in one case helping the leaks work better. Even if they don't leak they will trap and hold water in a couple places. Seems like something should be done, so...

There is a molded in fiberglass wall at this line. One side was close to sealed, the other was not at all. Access to these is impossible without cutting openings. I sealed these and then closed the "access ports" with some fiberglass discs cut from scraps left from other mods.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506566/Roof_leaks_01_ovqpuq.jpg

In some places along the edges of the entire inner air-port fiberglass to roof interface I worked body repair epoxy into cracks and gaps that would allow water to probably leak into the cabin from overhead. I guess spending a year and a half underwater in a submarine has made me somewhat fussy about water getting in where it shouldn't.

There is a another blank off hidden near this line. Inspection with an endoscope camera showed one side would leak for sure, the other probably not. But again water would collect to about 1/4 pint or more above that plate and just rot there. I decided this can be forcibly ported to let the water drain. Hence the deep well drilling rig was deployed from the end like so:

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506566/Roof_leaks_02_yx0e54.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506566/Roof_leaks_03_nevrlv.jpg

[aquillen]

I just had to do a little carpet work to see how it will come out. Pretty happy so far. Easy part done.

Did you know there are times when reading the manual is actually a good idea, after all. But you need to turn the page and read it all. I installed the window in the firewall. Next thing I know I'm moving things around and the glass falls out on the concrete floor.

My mentor from my seat upholstery project stopped in. He used to be a glass guy at a shop. Looked at my seal install and got me in the groove literally. That is why the back lips looked odd to me but I didn't investigate further. Later on I found that the next page in the manual showed closing that locking lip in the rubber seal. Sometimes you just get lucky and the glass doesn't break.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506218/Carpet_01_zwwi1g.jpg

[aquillen]

There are a couple aluminum pieces in the kit for this area. They don't fit nicely - at least not in my scheme. Made some fiberglass covers that will get vinyl or carpet at some point. Probably stuff some foam or rubber bulb like stuff behind them. Magnets or some screws will keep them in place when the time comes.

First some screen that can be hand shaped to desired form:

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590502206/Sail_to_Roof_trim_01_odjjo6.jpg

Next some duct tape (TIP: you should get some of this stuff, could come in handy :o) to prevent resin from sticking. This tape is the only reason the finished part was less than perfect smooth. Sandpaper.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506873/Sail_to_Roof_trim_02_wbbhzk.jpg

Here is a great way to handle fiberglass and resin, especially for odd parts being worked "in place". You eliminate fraying of the glass edges and overall work is un-messy (at least better than a free-for-all with loose cloth).

1) plastic sheet on bottom
2) fiberglass cloth
3) paint with some resin
4) plastic sheet on top then roll out excess= lightweight and smooth later
5) paper template on top
6) trace template onto plastic sheet
7) cut the whole sandwitch. Milwaukee Tool scissors are fantastic. Cuts aluminum sheet, then fiberglass, then carbon fiber, then cloth, then paper and still razor sharp months later.
8) peel off bottom layer plastic sheet
9) place on target and work into position
10) peel off top plastic
11) repeat next layer of glass

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506873/Sail_to_Roof_trim_03_urevqw.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506874/Sail_to_Roof_trim_04_xiczmj.jpg
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Voila!
https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590506874/Sail_to_Roof_trim_05_t1injx.jpg
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Peel off the duct tape (packing tape works if your local hardware store doesn't sell "duct/duck" tape). Save the screen template for your next 818, since you know you love building these things.

[aquillen]

Trust me, covering a steering wheel and getting nice looking stitching is no small endeavor. Don't let those Youtube shows make you think it is easy! You can do this, just set aside a lot of time.

Subaru steering wheel was messed up. 818 building friend JB offered me an NRG wheel he bought, they shipped him the wrong one, then sent another and said "keep both" (I think). He sold me this one for a bargain. but it had red stitching and velour black cloth. The red clashed with my blue theme.

Pigskin to the rescue. Made a matching shifter boot just for looks. I stitched this twice. First time was an real education and a flop. Good think it was a big pig, I needed to cut new parts for the second round. And just so you know, using original pieces as templates just doesn't work - it is stretched out of shape even if you don't think so. You have to fit and mark the leather on the wheel or it won't come out right (IMOANEO) ... in my honest and now experienced opinion. And, every hole must be prepunched and in the correct - matching - across from each other - spot or you're doomed.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590503559/Steering_wheel_01_vkpb8d.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590503559/Steering_wheel_02_qhwkyn.jpg
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Cruise lever
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590503559/Steering_wheel_03_vjxs7f.jpg

[aquillen]

Finally wrapped up my exhaust. 0.2mm embossed stainless steel from Pectec in Spartanburg SC. Be advised they only sell in 20 foot rolls for about $200 + shipping. But cool stuff and I'm using it for some other things here and there. Ceramic fiber blanket 2300F temperature rating. Ebay $17.00 for 25 ft.

Mostly pop-riveted (steel rivets).

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590505136/Exhaust_02a_v5w9bq.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590505136/Exhaust_01a_g7mbfn.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590505500/Exhaust_03_umbw08.jpg
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Forming the header shield peices:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590505500/Exhaust_04_i7mnln.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590505500/Exhaust_06_jscwzp.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590505501/Exhaust_07_fzjrlq.jpg

[aquillen]

The header covers get held on using stainless steel straps. These are like "ty-raps" but all steel. Napa is one source for these. This lets me cut the straps off to so I can work the pipes out off the car without raising the engine to get clearance. Band clamps work too but not so "pretty". Here are two shield stuffed with the insulation and ready to go on.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590505500/Exhaust_08_zqw63l.jpg
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All in.
https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590505501/Exhaust_09_ubofsp.jpg
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And then out -
https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1590505501/Exhaust_10_v3gn4k.jpg

[Frank818]

2 beautiful mufflers, one on each side, super symmetric!! You are a robot!

[AZPete]

Always astounding work! Inspiring!

[bbjones121]

wow, i can not believe this build!! it is amazing.

[Ipassgas]

Art, you're inspiring. . .
Inspiring me to sell my half done kit. It'll never be a third as cool as yours. ��

[aquillen]

Art, you're inspiring. . .
Inspiring me to sell my half done kit. It'll never be a third as cool as yours. ��

No No No NO. You better be jesting. I see other 818's that make me drool and go for more. No two should be alike and your stamp on yours is as good as anyone's. Level of skill is way less important than level of effort - give it what you got and yours becomes the best.

If it was any other way we would all be driving one model, one style and one boring vehicle, world wide. And God forbid that day comes.

[Ipassgas]

I'm jesting. It'll get finished. My plan was race car with a license plate anyway, so it needn't be factory perfect.

[aquillen]

With a little help from my friends it is painted and it was all a blast!

Thanks to Jetfuel's arranging booth access, my last month of body paint prep work culminated in shooting it all in a pro booth inside an incredible complex of aircraft hangars at the Eagle Creek Airport in Indy. Grandson who went with me to get the kit years back, and of course Jet, credited for several hours of final sanding prep, helping me keep my suit and air hose from dragging on everything wet during the shoot. Especially Jet helped find and sort out technique, goof and application fixes, keeping the paint coming, cleaning the gun and just plain making the whole thing fun and worth.

Inside a Tyvek suit much of Fri and Sat in 90F+ heat - I should be 10# lighter, which would be good so I can get in and out of this thing when it is finished.... :rolleyes:

Tips:

Don't reuse a disposible Kups cap or can on your paint gun's reservoir unless scrubby clean, the previous day's residue will soften and blow out onto your work at the worst times.

Oh, and before Jetfuel enjoys tattling on me, bring all your paint with you on the first trip. Wife had to meet us from 120 miles away to pass over the clearcoat catalyst I left at home. Wife says I owe her big... as in new diamond :mad:

Crammed in just right you can get the entire 818C on the floor of a 16' Penske truck. They are hurting for business so came down from 99c per mile to final of 25c and a great daily rate. Screw everything down on 2x4's and those to each other for a matrix that stays together on the bumpy roads.

Have better skills or use a pro to do the shoot so you don't have to cut and buff when finished. I had some nice smooth spots but the majority to make me happy will need some after-paint elbow grease this week.

I would do it all again in a heartbeat, Jet - I owe you man!

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1593971047/Body_painted_parts_yxxoht.jpg

[Ajzride]

Art i've looked at the picture on 3 monitors, and I can't tell if it is grey or white.

[aquillen]

Championship White - very white. A Honda paint - actually from TCP Global.

[Hobby Racer]

Nothing like the pride of showing off your car and being able to say, yes, I painted it myself!

Great work.

[Frank818]

Jetfuel!!! Him again! I also owe him a big one!

[Jetfuel]

Art, it was our pleasure having you down down here for the weekend.
It was a lot of hard work but it was a heck of a lot of fun for sure.
All I hope for is that riding in my car lit a bit of a fire under your feet to get you to the finish line...
131211
Checking for imperfections with a sun lamp
131212
Hard at work
131213
Learning from grandpa

Jetfuel

[Hobby Racer]

I've never had the pleasure of painting a car in a real paint booth. I always end up doing it my garage in a rigged up paint room. Being able to space the parts out and have a downdraft system clear the fog as you spray must be great! That plus the great lighting make it a lot easier to get good results.

[aquillen]

Hobby - all for sure. I tossed up a quick booth in my garage and put the first layer of epoxy primer on so I could find and dress any gross issues. So I had all that "fun" as well. Then the trip to Indy, we 320 grit sanded it since it only had a 24 hour window to coat over and I was well past that. Then we touched pin-holes and funny spots. Next reduced same primer = sealer, and so on. Didn't mind the primer going on in a quick and dirty garage booth since it was subject to sand and fix. I've done 6 cars before in home made booths but man, a full paint system (with oven to boot which we used on the clear) is in another world of goodness. Space was tight - easy to bump something - but we made it. This booth is there to do ailerons and other smaller airplane parts. Sure got lucky the day Jetfuel asked to come up and see my build last summer, he is another great 818'er.

[aquillen]

Your mileage will vary of course. This was TCP Globals "custom shop" paint line.

I rough measured the body to 115 sq ft, but don't hold me to this.

Epoxy primer:
..... 6/10 gallon one full coat
..... 4/10 gallon + 1/10 gallon reducer = "sealer", one full coat with 5 drops paint left (yikes), but I didn't scrimp near end. Did not paint where it can't be seen later on this coat.

White base
..... 8/10 gallon, 2 parts base 1.5 part reducer, 3 coats (book says 1 part reducer but things happen sometimes)

Urethane clear
.... 6/10 gallon, 4 parts clear 1 part activator, 2 coats

Jetfuel suggested I shoot an additional reduced clear to get a final flow-out. I chickened out on that but wish I knew how that would have worked out. I'm now doing 1000, 1500, 2000 wet by hand followed by rubbing, polishing and swirl mark pastes with my old beat up Wen DA polisher/buffer. Working out nicely but will take probably 3 maybe 5 days to wrap it up. Coming out pretty nice so far.

[aquillen]

Part of my headliner (the ceiling aluminum panel, visors) was done with the Morbern Hex marine vinyl - same as I put on the seats, door panels and dash. The pillars and such were done with a very cool pattern of thin, unbacked, embossed vinyl that was also a headliner product. During the baking of the paint (about 130F) something between the adhesive (Weldwood landau top and trim adhesive) and that vinyl went south. The Morbern did not have a problem but the thin stuff must have released something into the adhesive which softened it, and the vinyl curled and peeled.

Found this after doing the polish work, whereupon I removed the paint masking and paper covering the headliner and found a mess:

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1596635519/Headliner_fail_02_irpyew.jpg

Given that was about 2 days work it was a bummer, but good training on getting headliner in. I did that job in sections because the vinyl was difficult to fit and curve. But now that I had done one I felt brave enough to give it another go in all-one peice.

Local shop had some foam back charcoal cloth, a lot easier to work with than the vinyl. I did the entire roof with one piece from the tip of the pillars to behind the aluminum headliner. Material was $60.00, and I'm glad it failed the first time, this is much better anyway:

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1596635519/Headliner_version_2_01a_kw2jdt.jpg

With the roof suspended upside down from the ceiling, I could sit on a stool inside the window frames and from each side to comfortably work on the interior.

[aquillen]

Ford Fusion 2006-2009

The paint is indeed white... some views of the spoiler I picked up at LKQ Pick your part for $9.00 ;)

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1596636614/Paint_-_hood_-_wing_01_mopzmw.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1596636615/Paint_-_wing_02_hpyt3g.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1596636614/Paint_-_wing_03_tuw79y.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1596636611/Spoiler_06-09_Fusion_03_adaoxn.jpg
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Grandson visited and we hatched a design for the mounts. He shaped some pine, then we folded aluminum around it and tig'd the tails shut. A simple round aluminum piece will go in the middle as it wants to flex more than I like. It had a crack near one end on the underside, I think from flex on the Ford it lived on, likely from slamming the trunk over the years.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1596636616/Spoiler_06-09_Fusion_01_yl97kc.jpg
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For wire passage I put some 1" pipe to keep the resin fill out, and also a smaller tube goes in there for the pass through mount bolts. I filled the thing with plain old fiberglass resin, but filled with kitty litter which is light, fluffy of sorts, cheap, and saves resin. It also has about the right density so it floats around in the resin nicely, neither settling or floating to the top.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1596636614/Spoiler_06-09_Fusion_05_hkp58m.jpg

[aquillen]

Two and a half weeks ago. Started putting in the body wiring. At the end of the first day it was like this:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1596637486/Wiring_dash_-_mess_01_lswaun.jpg
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My process started with making new wiring diagrams for everything throughout. Using all Subaru connectors, adding Deutch connectors for my custom stuff. Harnesses were cut away so I had things cut down to pigtails ranging from a couple inches to a couple feet at each connector. Mount components, plug those connectors in, then run interconnect wires using scraps from the cut out harness wires (to keep color codes) from each pigtail to its mating other end/s. Everything is done with crimp splices covered with internal melt/seal heat shrink. Told the wife this would take a week. She doubles everything I tell her and was about right.

I'm down to installing power antenna, running speaker wires. Everything else has been tested and working, with exception of OBDII diag tool is not seeing the ECU. Expect to sort that today. All my wiring except the antenna runs down the left sail, nothing goes in the center as I wanted free access to pulling the rear firewall, and fuel tank. Antenna will go down the right side to behind the passenger area, keeping it away from the other wires just in case it wants to pick up any electrical noise - especially more likely without a steel body.

Some more pics later this week when it looks "nice"...

[AZPete]

As always: Amazing work.
Art, I really like your sun visors and the other interior trim. Of course, your wing and the finishing of the body panels are outstanding, too.

[aquillen]

Thanks Pete, you set the pace, I just follow along... :)

[Tarmac]

Hi Art,
I just read through your build thread, and all I can say is you have mad skills and ingenuity. Wish I had these skills, but alas, my talents lye elsewhere.

Paul

[aquillen]

I finished the wiring a few days back. The OBDII data line was wired to a pin on one of my connectors that had nothing on the other side, so no harm done. Moved the wire to the correct pin and happy :).

Here are some pix and comments on how I wired things in the dash area to the front and back as well.

AFTER everything was wired and tested I wrapped most of it with fuzzy electrical tape to dampen rattle noises...

First there is a small collection of wires for lighting, wiper, horns, brake fluid sensor, etc., that exit through the top left and top right corners of the firewall and route to the respective left or right components up in the hood area.All of those items end up in some device under the console cover so routing those to the dash corners seems to minimize wiring lengths and complexity. Grounds are all brought to the common ground bar detailed below to simplify and consolidate ground wiring and troubleshooting if needed. The battery to main fuse box 12V heavy guage wires run over the top of the blower then down and through one of the original FFR holes, through a rubber boot I found on some donor during one of the "yard scrounging" visits.

All rear destination wiring exits at the top of the left side foot kick plate and runs along the left side of the car. I didn't want wiring, cables or anything running over the tank so I could pull it for service with an absolute minimum of disassembly and disruption of connectors and so on. The engine, transmission computers are in the left front engine side of the rear firewall, behind the drivers head, along with a fuse/relay box dedicated to engine wiring needs back there. This cut the total wiring from the front to the back down to some power fed from the main fuse box to the engine fuse box, a dedicated ground for combo meter circuits between the engine and combo meter, and the various signal wires from the engine/trans/fuel tank to the combo meter. Total wiring front to back is minimized by having a dedicated fuse/relay box back there with the engine's various needs.

The tail lighting wires run on this left side as well then across the back. The radio antenna runs the right side to keep it clear of other circuits (I mentioned that before, I know).

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598146182/Interior_dash_assembly_05_ws6dtz.jpg

Along the front is a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8" aluminum angle bolted to the frame. This is a ground tie bar with several brass 10-32 studs, some in a cluster, others scattered along the bar. The bar has a dedicated #10 ground wire going to the frame at the far left end so that the bar does not simply rely on the end mount bolts to provide a reliable (ground) electrical connection to the bar. It is generally a bad idea to rely on mechanical mounting fasteners to also serve as a ground or other electrical connection, separate dedicated wires for that should be used in nearly all systems. While this is more often seen in higher voltage systems where a severe electric shock could happen, I believe in it for everything I build regardless of operating voltage(s).

But the bar also serves as a mounting rack for several modules, starting from the far left -
Cruise control module, interior lighting dimmer module, a current limit resistor I use for some 3 volt CREE LED's, wired in series, for my under dash lighting, FFR supplied turn signal flasher module, Subaru power window circuit breaker, lots of grounds to dash area wiring.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598146225/Interior_dash_assembly_07_kagew6.jpg

From previous posts recall I cut out the front of the dash so the middle becomes removable.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1566522952/Dashboard_struts_10_ujjh6c.jpg


The middle trim plate is easily pulled out being held in by hook-loop tape ("Velcro"). It makes an access cover for the fuses and relays, Combo meter module and the Push-to-Start/Remote entry module "PKE".These are fastened to the rear frame member above the center console. One part is the original Subaru main fuse/relay box, attached on top of that is the "PKE" box and to it's left is an aftermarket fuse/relay box I wired. Each component is wired via connectors, mostly Subaru bits, that I used as intended by Subaru or rewired to my own wiring scheme - and I can remove almost anything by unplugging it's connector without having to cut some wire(s).

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598146223/Interior_dash_assembly_06_c7ndyo.jpg

Next item is the combination meter, my customized version. The main housing with all my meter movements, etc., and the original Legacy electronics board (which is wider than an Impreza), are fastened to an aluminum plate. A couple slots cut out in the bottom of the plate engage in screws sticking up from the frame members just behind the steering wheel mount. So the entire meter "module" becomes a quick mount/release. The module can be tipped in through the front of the fully mounted console, moved into place and then dropped down onto the screws. Next I slide the module back about 1/2" and it is trapped by the screws. When the front cover plate is installed and held by the Velcro, the combo meter module is trapped in place. To remove: pull out the front console plate, pull the meter foward 1/2", lift it up off the screws, lift the entire consol just enough to reach the 3 green connectors, pull them out, then move the combo meter module out through the front of the dash cover. Easier to do than explain.

As for the air system - ducting - I posted before the underside of the console cover has added ducting and ports. I have fresh air available into the bottom right of the dash close off aluminum plate. Above that port is a custom box that I have servos setup to open/shut flaps that direct fresh or recirc air here and there. All that is tied together between the blower motor, dash ports, etc., with a bunch of 3" flex duct pipe. It is all a tight fit being routed between the wiring crammed in there, but it all fits. The FFR dash cover can be lifted just enough to reach in and install or remove the various ducts and they flex so the cover can be lowered and fastened along the bottom in the usual FFR manner.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598151922/Interior_dash_assembly_02_xe2axa.jpg

Above - you can see a gray 12-pin Deutch connector over on the right which connects the door wiring to the body for that side. Each door gets one so a door can be disconnected with one plug to remove it for off-car work. Subaru's original door flex rubber covers work good for finishing this out, didn't take a picture but could if asked.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598146142/Interior_dash_assembly_04_zimgkf.jpg
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The ends of each hose section get wide sticky backed Velcro (the fuzzy half) wrapped outside/inside with some pop rivets added to enforce staying in place. I hadn't done all of them yet when I took this pic. This makes a tight slip fit and no-rattle attachment for the hose to pipe end of whatever it goes to in the dash plumbing.

[Ajzride]

I like the ground bar, I had just been putting 8-32 studs into the frame, but that would reduce the number of places I have to sand off powder coat.

[aquillen]

Finished the carpet, sill plates. Satisfied.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598191642/818_Interior_left_daujjo.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598191642/818_Interior_right_zxrptf.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598192242/818_Dash_01_sgdfuh.jpg

[Ajzride]

One of the nicest custom interiors I've ever seen. Very sharp.

[Frank818]

OMG!

OMG!

Sorry I can't type, I meant: OMG!


There is NOTHING to say about your interior, cuz there are NO words good enough to describe it.


Does it run, now? Not the interior but the car as a whole with that interior and everything....

[Jetfuel]

you guys need to see this work of art in person....
Art...need a picture of the shifter knob...

Jet

[aquillen]

I decided to install the lenses without painting or taping over the perimeter. I found a 3M 730 sealant that is used for assembling solar cells. It has excellent UV stability, weather resistance, is crystal clear. Very importantly it has a 15 minute skin over rather than a very quick skin over like so many of the off the shelf silicone sealants. Found this at McMaster-Carr, $22 not counting shipping. 3M recommends testing this on painted surfaces, so I did that - urethane clear paint did not react with the sealant.

The installation process is of necessity a bit more complicated because the sealant, while clear, still must be applied accurately, the lens kept in place on the first try and it all has to stay in place at least overnight to let the adhesive set. A painted over lens perimeter would hide air bubbles and poor application work, but in this case it is all there on display.

A way is needed to hold the lens in place, and maintain pressure on it since it is not a great fit in curvature against the body (but in my car it was only about 3/8" off at the worst spot about half way along a long side. This sealant is strong though and a really poor fit would probably still be usable with this product. I think tape might work but I decided instead to use some quarter size neodymium magnets (I use these often to hold parts in place while epoxies set, etc.). With the magnets I can stack them until I get necessary strength and I can verify it will hold before jumping in with the glue. I had some fixture setup to do, but I was able to test and retest, practice putting each lens in place until I was ready to go.
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Some angle iron was clamped into place with the bottom magnet set to just touch the bottom of the lens. Some tape prevents scratches. You can also see the underside mount studs and rubber weather strip I use to clamp the buckets in place:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/a_270/v1598232300/Headlight_lense_install_001_blsmsp.jpg
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Next with a lens held in place with magnets above and below, I added bits of tape from underneath to temporarily mark where to mask off the underside with tape. With the lens off the car I finished masking all the way around the back side guided by the tape bits.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/a_270/v1598232300/Headlight_lense_install_002_bbxfoh.jpg
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The top of the fender got masked and then the sealant is run around the recess for the lens. On my first pass I didn't put enough sealant and ended up with air pockets totally visible from above, this picture is me doing that first pass and later I used about 3x this much. The idea of a slow skinning sealant proved good at this point as it was easier to clean off and start over. If you do this method, not skimp - use plenty of sealant as it is easy to wipe off excess but hard to fix a shortage under there, and apply it so it doesn't have air loops or pockets form as you apply it.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598231744/Headlight_lense_install_003_nf3hdf.jpg
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Below, I've just pushed the lens into place and the magnet stack has it. I used soft rags to wipe away excess sealant, then pulled off the masking tape and Q-tips for a final touch up removal of sealant. The magnets keep it in place and actually with the sealant on there it has a pretty good grab before long as well.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598231744/Headlight_lense_install_004_pkgvf9.jpg
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Under my LED shop lights the sealant shows a very slight yellow tint, but not enough to be a concern. In sunlight it pretty much looks clear to me.
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I really like the simple look of the lens sitting over the white paint, which shows through, and no painted rim to worry about babying later on:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598234973/818_Front_da79e6.jpg

[Ajzride]

I think you are holding out on us Art, the car looks pretty finished in that last picture.

Also, the clamshell looks amazing, I can't believe how much eliminating the hood helps the look of the car. I'm 100% sold on it now.

[aquillen]

Does it run, now? Not the interior but the car as a whole with that interior and everything....
.

Art...need a picture of the shifter knob...Jet
.
It does run. In fact tomorrow morning I'm meeting with local Hagerty agent to buy a policy he quoted Friday, then over to the Indiana BMV branch to register and get a plate (if all goes well). Down state BMV sent me VIN last week and Friday a deputy came out and OK'd my VIN plate mounting. (Drool over how easy this is in Indiana, guys, one of our best kept once secrets - of course do you want to be on the road with stuff we COULD build and plate here ????).

This week's goals are to finish the front grill, glue in the yoga matt fender cushies, install the radio antenna, add foam seal strip over the firewall window, mount the rear hatch and a few other odds and ends. Drive to Carmel, North side of Indianapolis on Friday and participate in a cruise there. Better be reliable on by Friday or I'm out for a walk :)

Shifter up close -
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598235786/Shifter_iiljak.png
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I walked my grandson through making the knob parts on my mini-lathe. The stem cut from aluminum on my CNC mini-mill and powdercoated.
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I like working with the laminate multi-color bass wood. Most of my wood came from Rutland Plywood in Vermont before the factory burned down in 2014. I have a "duplicator" that I built that I can use to route stocks and knife handles from "masters". I make a clay mold of a person's hand grip then duplicate that grip into the wood, creating a one-off handle/stock grip matching the person. Also made a pantograph arm to do my own engraving on blades, etc. FUN hobbies, but I've never sold a knife or gunstock, they're for close friends and family.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598236716/K4W_mntfj0.jpg
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How to turn a 200$ Savage 17HMR into a custom tack driver:
https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598236770/DSC_0699_wiomst.jpg

[aquillen]

Officer, I swear I was NOT trying to race you....
https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1598237622/818_Rear_-_lettered_frwrbp.jpg

[Jetfuel]

You coming down???
You want me to follow you???
I’ll honk if any parts falls off....:D

Jet

[mikeb75]

To quote the pitch meeting guy:
Wow, wow, wow, wow, wow....... wow.

Kind of speechless with every aspect of the build. This is definitely one of the benchmarks for 818's. Art, your work is amazing!

[Frank818]

(Drool over how easy this is in Indiana, guys, one of our best kept once secrets).

Same goes for Montana, I checked that before I decided to register in my own Province, I was trying to avoid all the rules but you cannot drive more than 6 months within QC with a car registered outside QC, so that killed it for me. Anyway I'm fine now all went fine with registration.



Man this car is perfect!
I'm sure Mike is very jealous about your door fitment!!


Art, did you have to heat the lenses and change their shape so they could fit nice on the fenders?
A friend here in QC building his C did not need to do that at all, the lenses fitted flush with the fenders, which was totally not the case with me and many other earlier S owners.


So when's the street test video coming?

[Pearldrummer7]

That interior is absolutely beautiful, Art.

I like the badging, too. Looks factory

[aquillen]

Thanks everyone - appreciated much.

Jet - yes - 9:30am group in Carmel. Unless rain, which with the Gulf storms coming who knows. And I need to putt around local this week to see what does fall off.

[aquillen]

Same goes for Montana, I checked that before I decided to register in my own Province, I was trying to avoid all the rules but you cannot drive more than 6 months within QC with a car registered outside QC, so that killed it for me. Anyway I'm fine now all went fine with registration.



Man this car is perfect!
I'm sure Mike is very jealous about your door fitment!!


Art, did you have to heat the lenses and change their shape so they could fit nice on the fenders?
A friend here in QC building his C did not need to do that at all, the lenses fitted flush with the fenders, which was totally not the case with me and many other earlier S owners.


So when's the street test video coming?

Vid - Not to far off, but after this weekend coming up, "LEMONADE 10000" in Carmel, IN, I promised wife I'd catch up on a mountain of honey-dooo's around here, and back off the car project.
Lens - they were close enough to pull down without heating. Got lucky. But those magnets and the bond strength of that 730 could handle a lot of warp if one needed it.

[redbudrr]

What a beautiful job you have done. Your work is very inspiring!!

[STiPWRD]

Just soaking up this wealth of knowledge and craftsmanship... the car looks amazing Art!

[AZPete]

I'm totally speechless! Well, nearly. Your interior is the best ever and then your headlight lenses are ingenious and then your taillights and then your shift knob and then your steering wheel and then . . . .

I think Frank818 said it best a few months ago when he wrote that you are from another world and beyond us mortals.

[aquillen]

Well we had an exciting weekend here. I was pushing to get the car ready for a drive around town event based in Carmel, Indiana (about 120 miles from here), but didn't get it out on the road at all ahead of that so bailed. Grandkids and son-in-law came up Sunday instead. We worked on odds and ends, stuff like getting the rearview mirror mount converted from wedge mount to cam-lock, getting weather strip on doors, spoiler mounted, etc. Sunday afternoon we took turns running around nearby.

I outsourced two jobs on this project. I had a glass guy come in last week and do that. Very pleased except if you can, make sure they don't set the rear hatch glass on your coupe up proud above the fiberglass frame. He did and so my glass is about 3/8" higher than would make it look perfect. Oh well. And wheels would not fit in my oven so I had them powercoated. Look superb, but this guy likes to put two coats (never heard of that and have read that it is not reliable to do). The second coat is popping off in places, he is warranting it, so it is going back and I'll have him not do two coats this next time.

But driving - whoa what a hoot. So much for taking it easy - that is pretty hard to do with this thing as it is like a wild horse begging to be let loose. The drive has been worth every bit of the build (or is it the other way around). Let's just say I'm pretty d*** happy here.

BUT, one wheel can suddenly lose 10# of pressure during a drive, and then stop leaking. Never seen that before and I'm 99% betting it is a crack in that powdercoat flexing and leaking. So it goes into standby for probably a couple weeks while I wait on him to recoat them. Guess the rest of the weather strip and other little tidbits get wrapped up.

...UPDATE, had the tires dismounted this morning. When I took of the RR pressure sensor, the powder coat (2nd layer only) peeled a chunk off right under about half the rubber seal on that stem (this is the powder on the inside of the rim). So that was the leak. Very weird because it would hold when at 20#, but at 32# it would leak down to 20 again in just a few minutes. The kind of thing I could see happening to Frank up there in Quebec ... :)

[AZPete]

I love your description of a wild horse. And, I agree.

[Jetfuel]

Glad to see you had fun with the family
Broken hearted we didn't get to cruise together...there will be more to come I'm sure
Like always if you need a hand I'm just down the road
...134580

Jet

[FFRWRX]

Wow! Somebody is in some nice company there.

[aquillen]

Jet, I knew I'd regret not staying up until 2am every day the last couple weeks. In the end the Insurance Co and License Bureau co-conspired to delay my game. But yes, we're gonna double team some of the shows I'm for sure.

[Frank818]

The kind of thing I could see happening to Frank up there in Quebec ... :)

Never happened to me, but now you've mentioned it, it will soon. :)
I understand your question marks about your pressure issue, I understand way too well. :) I hope you'll put the finger on it quickly, it's frustrating when issues last for a long time cuz you can't find the cause!

[Sgt.Gator]

Fantastic build!

[Jetfuel]

Wow! Somebody is in some nice company there.

Yes they are

Jet

[Mechie3]

.
(Drool over how easy this is in Indiana, guys, one of our best kept once secrets - of course do you want to be on the road with stuff we COULD build and plate here ????).
[/IMG]

It was indeed easy. Almost too easy. I didn't even have my seats bolted down when I got my OK to plate it. lol.

[FFRWRX]

Yes they are

Jet

Good one!

[Jetfuel]

So today I did the 250 miles roun trip once again to go see the finished product and go for a spin in this incredible car..
The ride is smooth as it can be...there's no wind noise due to all the sealing throughout the cabin but when Art stepped on the gas you can hear the intake noise right above your head from the carbon fiber runners and that's just music to my ears
Acceleration and response to the go pedal is crisp but the braking was surprisingly effective...maybe because he didn't tell me we were going fron 70 to zero like right freaking now...
The inside luxury and comfort features are abundant and well placed just like or better than OEM Mfgs.
What I'm trying to say is that this creation will bring many smiles to Art and his better half as well to all the people that sees it go by...

Well done Art....very well done

Jet.....thanks for the great afternoon

[Jetfuel]

135274

135275
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[aquillen]

Jet - thanks for coming up, nice pix, especially the cornfield in back. I need to post some pix I took over the last couple weeks doing cabin gasket work to seal it up. I'm going to have post-partem blues over this thing getting done, but maybe driving it will cure that. Very much appreciate your comments, value your friendship. The Subaru Legacy brakes are pretty decent, looking forward to the EBC yellows on the back getting broke in - but won't like the dust I'm sure. Have to get on one of our side roads and get the prop valve tuned once the pads are cooked.

[Mechie3]

I like that last pic with both of them lined up.

[aquillen]

First does anyone know how a project is "graduated" or do we just open a new post saying so?

----------

Anyway, in the last three weeks I've done 750 miles. Some short trips locally just to "see". I've had two hiccups of note - a check engine due to swapped black and white wires on the connector for the right front 02 sensor. Fixed at 120 miles, clean bill of health since.

Next was yesterday, builder negligence. I have 1" wheel spacers to get my 7" wide rims with 50mm backspace to meet the fender flares better. I should have re-torqued the spacers' nuts to the spindle studs at about 100 miles, but "forgot". I torqued the wheels themselves a couple times and went over other suspension and steering items but spaced off doing the spacers. The nuts are trapped behind the wheels' faces and can't fall off, but they can get loose about 3 turns and let the wheels wobble. Let that go on for long and something would break off... And so one spacer did loosen, right in the first few miles of the Pumpkin 10000's 100+ sports car cruise around Indianapolis at about 10:15am. Had to abort the cruise (and spoiled it for jetfuel who was following me in his 818S and faithfully stayed with me) off the route to a nearby tire shop to tighten them up. We caught up with the crowd at the destination but missed part of the fun run.

----------

Last week I ran over to South Bend, In, to TireRack's corporate center to get new 17x8 rims installed. But they refuse to remove spacers on cars for fear of tearing out a stud. Nor will they let a customer wrench on a car in house. All makes sense but so I came home with the 17x7's still on there. That would have solved above as I was doing this for several reasons, not the least of which was to get rid of using spacers. Another of their rules I didn't know was waiting - if a tire contacts the body they won't mount them as well. Not a problem that I expect but if you go there be advised. On the other hand, they swapped tires around for me for free to get the slight run-out I had on front rims moved to the back of the car which solved a tiny bit of shimmy that was lurking in the front at 60mph.

----------

In the last few days I've made two long highway drives, 180 miles round trip at ~60mph to TireRack and then the last two days to Indy and back for about 250 miles at more like 75mph, give or take a few. I've not had a check engine again, nor any surprises. Regardless, I am hot to get a trunk made back there because I'm a "must have tools handy" guy no matter what I drive, and I'm running with my knickers down without a trunk with some basic tools back there.

----------

I did make one change this last week. Changed the muffler system for the 4th time. V.1 had the front cats and the 3rd cat empy into a single Magnaflow can that was pretty big. Too quiet and the can was heavy, bulky and I didn't like the exit location. Next came the glasspacks on each side aka "Cherry bomb" style. V.2 was louder than Wayne's track run in that FactoryFive's mule test video, not gonna make authorities happy. I never drove it. V.3 was pictured not that far above, and used a pair of Thrush 12" long cans that have internal flow loops but no packing and sound about like straight thru's. Sound super nice outside but in the cabin I had hard drone between 55-65. V.4 is back to having the 3rd cat which dumps into an 11" Magnflow this time. This muffler is also straight through but has packing. 2-1/4 in 2-1/2 out. Very happy at last. Just gradually gets louder with speed but no drone. Cruising in town the radio is usable and it is docile. But when the pedal goes down and above about 2500 it builds with authority.

The heat was seriously increased with the 3rd cat back in place of course, so I boxed it in stainless with ceramic wool packing and then wrapped the pipes. The first Magnaflow was 16#, this one is 7#. This setup I can enjoy. I have blue engine bay lighting I can put on for a show, kinda silly maybe but kinda cool too... and carbon fiber shows off real nice in blue. After the trip to TireRack I decided a separate shield was needed between the 3rd cat "box" and the intake collector as it was getting cooked. I think I'm down to figuring out a shielding/trunk setup back there at last.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1602456126/Engine_07a_btvnwr.jpg

[Jetfuel]

136230

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Art ...all it matters is that we had fun ...I’ll do it again in a heartbeat

Jet

[Frank818]

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1602456126/Engine_07a_btvnwr.jpg

THAT is your engine?

[aquillen]

With the blue light it does look different.

[Frank818]

That is impossible, this is a Pagani engine with the double U shaped air intake! This engine on the above pic is worth millions of bucks! Unbelievable you managed that, you do better than any supercar manufacturer (apart from Pagani themselves)!

136297

[aquillen]

Your'e cracking us up (wife and I).... but if you can find a buyer in the $1M range for MY car, I'll cut you in for 50%.

[aquillen]

Not so much a trunk as just a box back there. Goal was something that could hold a small tool kit, a few travel items, be easily removable, and stand up to heat from the 3rd cat and engine compartment in general. A more complex trunk could be made to use the extra space around wheel wells, etc., but unlikely to get it in and out without a lot of effort. This can be moved in and out in moments to access tail lights, etc., at the cost of less storage capacity. Made of fiberglass, bottom is reinforced with Nomex between the glass layers and then multiple thin stainless steel heat reflectors on the bottom. Vinyl dust and drip cover with snaps along the front edge. Vinyl is pop-riveted to the box along the rear and rear half of each side.

Drove around for a couple hours and it did not get much heat inside at all but I'd avoid cosmetics or other "melt-ables" back there, maybe. Have to see next summer when things are warm again. It will hold a couple days worth of travel clothes along with small tool kit and some odds and ends.

At the rear it has two slotted steel claws sticking out of the back of the fiberglass box that drop down onto two bolts sticking out of aluminum strips which are bonded to the rear bumper. The front sits on two struts that come up from the engine bay framework. The 3/4" square tube struts have flat plate welded at the top and angle iron bits at the bottom. At the top, the plates have 1/4-20 bolts that stick through into the inside of the box, just enough to fit self locking nuts. At the bottom they fit to the frame with another pair of 1/4-20 bolts and lock washers. Remove the four 1/4-20 fasteners and the two struts, then lift the back of the box off of the rear bolts, tip the box and take it out - time required about 30 seconds. Just as easy to put back in.

There are two rows of snaps for the cover, lower set makes it fit snug and pretty/flat, upper set lets it billow up so extra stuff can be crammed into the box - almost 50% more room when needed.
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Pic of the bottom, there are two layers of heat shield since this sits just above the 3rd cat converter. Each shield has 1/4" air space between.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258041/Trunk_box_01_raw_side_bhxgxc.jpg.
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Cutouts for the tail lights:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258043/Trunk_box_04_raw_edge_inside_lx9f1w.jpg
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Rear mounts inside the bumper:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258043/Trunk_box_05_rear_bumper_mounts_r54zpi.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258042/Trunk_box_06_installed_od3wgx.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258045/Trunk_box_07_installed_pztvim.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258045/Trunk_box_08_installed_xti9yk.jpg

[aquillen]

Left and right front box supports:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258048/Trunk_box_09a_left_front_mount_ev8cjy.png
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258045/Trunk_box_10a_right_front_mount_aavlhw.jpg
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Tool kit tucks in one corner:
https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258048/Trunk_box_11_tool_kit_wzrue9.jpg
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Duffle bag with 2 days clothes, room for camera or who knows what else:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258048/Trunk_box_12_travel_bag_jemgjr.jpg
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Throw in more stuff until the lower snaps are too tight:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258048/Trunk_box_13_extra_stuff_oy8j40.jpg
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Upper snaps to the rescue:
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1606258046/Trunk_box_14_upper_snaps_vphmwq.jpg
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The rear hatch will drain water on this cover but contents expect to stay dry. A small cooler could even keep picnic goodies fresh on a hot day in there...

[Jetfuel]

Thanks Art...good winter project...

jet

[aquillen]

This is what happens when I run out of sensible projects to pursue. There was nothing wrong with my shift linkage - not a darn'd thing, But sure enough I had to fiddle with it. Last fall in warmer weather the shifter was really just fine. But I've found this car can be driven in cold weather thanks to good seals on the body/cabin working. In cold weather the transmission shift works but is pretty stiff (just the tranny's guts, not my linkages are the cause). My shift linkage is complex enough, and although i THINK I made it robust too, I was back to wondering if I could make a "power assist" and take the load off the linkages.

I have to say now, Holy Cow. It works better than I imagined. It has better feel as well. As usual, it turns out less simple than I might wish but on the other hand it isn't all that crazy as built. The coolest part is by adjusting the air pressure regulator, I can define how much help the linkage gets from the air cylinder "booster", ranging from zero to "just think about it and it shifts".... well actually you do have to touch the shift knob but that is all. I expect when I get it on the road in warmer weather I'll probably adjust the assist level to be about half what it would take to normally move the shift between gears. I didn't really expect this to be worth keeping on the car - more of an experiment than anything - but at this point I'm hoping it will survive the heat back there and work long term.

So this is an air cylinder that acts directly on the shift shaft out of the transmission to help it move in/out. The left-right-rotation motion for the shift lever is easy enough so that it got left out of the project. A small air pump and supply reserve tank supplies regulated air at about 20 to 40 PSI to the cylinder. A force sensor switch pair up in the cabin detect the front-back shift force in my linkage rods. The switches energize two solenoid operated air valves. Each valve operates one direction of the air cylinder in concert with the shift motion up front to assist moving the transmission shift shaft. Since the switches are up front and the cylinder acts directly on the transmission shaft, all the in-between parts get unloaded according to how hard the cylinder works. When the air solenoids are off the cylinder is vented at both ports and it just goes for a ride with the rest of the linkage. If the system fails, the air cylinder just follows the shifter motions with negligible drag. The only bad failure might be if a solenoid or switch stuck on and kept the cylinder acting in one direction.

Finding a small pump that could be trusted in a warm engine compartment, run very quietly, not cost much, etc, seemed to be a challenge. The force sensor switch was also something to work out - whether to just use simple electric contacts, micro-switches, magnet reed switches, strain guages, etc. The force sensor also has to be able to operate the linkage reliably even if the air assist is disabled. The air solenoids need to be quick acting to avoid a delay in feeding air to the cylinder. Unfortunately I had to modify a pump mechanically and add electronic controls and design the force sensor switch parts to get what I wanted, I couldn't find off the shelf parts. And making these parts was not a quick project by any means. Although I prefer not to have unique parts that have to be custom made, looking at this car project overall, I'm way past shedding tears over that anymore.

First I played with low cost air cylinders to see how much air pressure, cylinder force, mounting options to the transmission, etc. It worked out that I could drop the cylinder in place by pure luck with only a singe piece of steel bracket that is trapped under a spring retainer screw. This screw traps a spring that is part of the reverse lockout mechanism on this 98 Forester 5 speed. I cut a replacment screw to keep the final screw depth the same since it works against the internal spring. The cylinder rated temperature is going to be getting tested mostly by virtue of being fastened to the transmission housing through that steel bracket. This 'mission hit about 180F after an hour and half at 70MPH, give or take, last October on a 70F day. If the cylinder develops problems I will have to look into making a less heat conductive bracket (stainless steel maybe, etc.)... Sill need to fab a head shield vs. the nearby exhaust pipe. The cylinder shaft will also be a maintenance - clean it - issue as dirt not good for it (rubber boot?).
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1613504428/Cylinder_and_valves_03_nyatuz.jpg
,
Not sure if picture perspective is accurate but may need to tweak cylinder angle to match shift rod angle...
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1613504188/Cylinder_and_valves_04_ahowwr.jpg
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Air solenoids located close to cylinder to minimize air transfer, line pressurization / vent delay and air consumption (reduces pump demand).
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1613504232/Cylinder_and_valves_01_h8d7i6.jpg
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Pump module, reservoir tank, regulator mounted on left back corner of rear shock tower cross braces. Tank is an air horn, etc., component. Tank kept at 55-70 PSI. Adj reg for desired shift feel... 20-40 PSI.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1613504294/Pump_-_Tank_-_Regulator_installed_ymfl3y.jpg
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[aquillen]

Shift shaft force sensor switch, inline under center console.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1613504107/Shift_shaft_force_sensor_installed_01_clhopo.jpg
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The sensor is made from 1/2" dia steel tubing. Inside are end tubes of brass, bored to a slip fit for 1/4" steel shaft that extends out one end. The other brass end is threaded for 5/16-18 rod to screw onto existing 5/16 shift rod that runs out of the back of the shifter unit. Inside the steel tube are two springs, about 30# per inch compression rate, trapped inside and working to keep the rectangular brass block centered between two adjustable clamp on contact blocks. With no force on the front-back shift lever the brass block does not contact either contact block. With about 4# of force inside the shifter sensor, a spring will compress and one related contact is made. This grounds one 12 volt solenoid back at the rear to direct air to the cylinder. The total motion allowed is ~ 1/2mm either forward or backward. If the system is not working, the contact blocks carry the shift force to the rest of the system regardless = still shifts like in the old days.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1613504038/Shift_shaft_force_sensor_05_ooyok7.jpg
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The regulator/filter has moisture capture, fine micron filter. System over-pressure protection valve opens at 90 PSI. Pump air output via the longer blue tube next to electrical connector. Tiny blue tube in middle of box is air reservoir tank moisture purge vent.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1613504499/Cabinet_exterior_02_jj5mjv.jpg
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I wanted a compact, quiet and of course (hopefully reliable) compressor pump. I settled on the key working part inside the Xiaomi Mijia portable battery operated air pump. This because I found an online video of servicing one of these pumps, where I could guess its small dimension, see that it had ball bearings and worked on a pair of LI batteries = probably a 6 volt motor. The pump was also rated for over 140 PSI output, described as a quiet pump compared to others and has a long run time without overheating. Had for about $40 to $50 which is not bad - discard the case, electronics, save the batteries.

Additional goals met: In case the pump might have trouble starting when working against existing pressure head of 60 to 90 PSI (I didn't know yet how hard I'd work it), a 6 volt motor could be hit with 12V for just a moment to help it start against that existing pressure. Small form factor to fit in a smaller box. Easy way to fit a speed sensor, which in this case is a fiber wheel with magnets embedded in the rim and the magnets trigger pulses via a hall effect sensor mounted at the end of the pump frame. The air output end of the pump turned out to be not useable without a lot of fuss so I milled a new end cap for the "cylinder head / check valve" that would let me screw in a push lock air fitting. This pump is about 5" long.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1613504599/Pump_-_Xiaomi_Mijia_01_ymn2vk.jpg
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In the pump/control box:

This pump starts having issues when started with 6 volts against an existing 60 PSI head, if it happened to stop previously with the piston at bottom of stroke. But at 12 volts it will eat a finger trying to stop the crank gear from turning (don't ask) with 150 PSI head. I designed a speed control circuit that runs the pump at any set RPM I want, but will apply up to 12V if needed to get it up to speed. As speed increases toward target RPM it is regulated. Motor brush spark and motor temperature suggest it will tolerate this bit of abuse long after the pump piston/seal has worn out. (I used to build motor test equipment for R/C racing motors, as well as build and sell the motors themselves, lots of history with small motors). I setup the pump to run at about 3 volts when it has come up to my target RPM, which is about 1/2 of the Xiaomi Mijia's original speed, so it has little temperature rise at the cylinder/piston area, runs very quiet, but can stay ahead of shifter air consumption with hopefully longer life.

Operating the shifter, I get about 15 shifts before the compresser has to replenish the tank pressure - 55 to 70 PSI. This is with the assist cranked up to almost doing the shifts without ANY help from the driver (40 PSI at the cylinder). The pump will bring the empty reservoir (1/2 gallon) to 70 PSI in about 90 seconds.

Other stuff in the box - adjustable pressure sensor switch. The control circuit board also pulses the purge valve for about 1/4 second each time the pump starts. This helps purge any moisture collecting in the bottom of the reservoir tank (pump air goes in the bottom, supply air to the regulator out the top of the reservoir). The momentary pressure drop in the lines also reduced the demand on the pump itself slightly (minor plus). The pump is mounted on rubber grommets to further reduce noise. Ignition must be on to power the system but that circuit was a lower power fused circuit I already had available in the area I mounted this unit. A 20 amp fused line that was always "on" was also run back to this area before I installed the body, just for this sort of project... so the ignition on condition energizes an extra relay to power up the pump motor circuit. Various status LED indicators on the side of the box show what is going on with the system, along with a system enable switch to kill the whole toy. An input air filter on the bottom of the box lets air in for the pump suction.
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1613504544/Cabinet_assy_10_xk4gkk.jpg
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All that is left is durability to be learned via school of hard knocks. Paddle shifters... a lot more to make that happen.

[Ajzride]

If you are really that bored Art, I have a few projects I can sic you on.

Very nice as always.

[Jetfuel]

Art... hope you don't mind.... I just sent your nomination for the Rube Goldberg award...

It all makes sense now...
Jet

[aquillen]

I continue to enjoy my life time subscription to all of Rube's publications.

[maclonchas]

Art,

I have been actively looking at your posts and others and I am fascinated what you have done with your build. Thanks for pointing to me in that direction. I am trying to digest the whole electrical section and the detailed drawings you put together. Can you clarify which ECM you used? Was it the JDM or USDM ECM from an Outback (Part number would help). I believe you baselined on a 2001 year for the electrical? Is that correct? Lastly, who fabbed your daughterboard for the TCM? Do you have that file to be fabbed?

More questions to follow as I did deeper into your build.

Thanks
Bill

[roadrashrob]

Art,

Was wondering what you did for seatbelts? Did you use the OEM Subaru belts? I'm totally disappointed with the retraction of my OEM ones, and that is AFTER I sent them out to safety restore for new webbing and spring re-tensioning.

-Rob

[aquillen]

Art,

I have been actively looking at your posts and others and I am fascinated what you have done with your build. Thanks for pointing to me in that direction. I am trying to digest the whole electrical section and the detailed drawings you put together. Can you clarify which ECM you used? Was it the JDM or USDM ECM from an Outback (Part number would help). I believe you baselined on a 2001 year for the electrical? Is that correct? Lastly, who fabbed your daughterboard for the TCM? Do you have that file to be fabbed?

Thanks
Bill

The JDM shop promised me an ECU but never found it. I used an Outback 2002, part # 22611AG79A . I also had a 2003 ECU and had it in the car but fuel pump relay would not work. Turns out the 2003 went with an electronic fuel pump controller module, not the relay. I think it was for less noise, more efficient setup. That changes the harness wiring of course, so rather than rip up my harness which was for the relay setup, I just popped in the 02 ECU and drove off. My custom version of the harness wiring is based on 2001 info for the most part.

I make my own PC boards unless buying a bunch or doing something commercial. Incredibly, the electronic version of my foil layout for the TCM adapter got lost... I had an old Win98 computer running an ancient board layout tool that I bought for megabucks in the early 90's and still love. I backed it up once in a while but it happened to lose the hard drive shortly after I did the layout for the TCM, and I had not backed it up. I've got it running on WinXP (yah, I know), but happy with it once more. Good news is I have a paper print of the foil and component views and can have that board laid out again i an hour - make 'em again.

My guess is you're not in a big hurry, and I've got some boards coming up to make for another project - could etch one then... a bunch of guys can tell you I haven't charged for stuff (pay back/forward).

[aquillen]

Art,

Was wondering what you did for seatbelts? Did you use the OEM Subaru belts? I'm totally disappointed with the retraction of my OEM ones, and that is AFTER I sent them out to safety restore for new webbing and spring re-tensioning.

-Rob

These came out of the back seat of an older Lexus 300 according to my notes, but didn't write down what year. They had sun fade after I got to looking closer, so I bought webbing and re-loaded them including sewing. Used heavy uphostery thread by hand - some may gasp but I'd bet the webbing rips anywhere by the time the sewing let loose. But the mounting had to be hacked and fiddled to fit, retraction with this is also funky - not really super happy with them either. I.e. can't really say these are your best solution. They are very low on my "make it better work list".

[maclonchas]

Art

Thanks. You are the man.

Bill

[roadrashrob]

Here is my take on setting up the Hella's so they can be removed easily for service or whatever reason. I'm probably going to make some halo rings for the front, but still mulling that over... white SMT LED's embedded in transucent white plastic rings. When I get bored with the other items I'll probably go4it.

The Hella snap-in mounts go into my aluminum plates, mounted on studs. Can adjust the studs and of course the Hella adjusters too. I lost one of the bags of plastic Hella ball-snap thingies for a week. Chasing those on the Internet was a fiasco. Almost called Hella / and or / make my own then found the bag which had fallen into my throttle linkage scraps box. What a relief... I'm sure you all know that drill.

To get the low beam shutter cutoff pattern to be "level" to the road the lamps must be rotated. About 0.3" additional cut in the original plastic snap in holes gets the rotation needed for my build. In the original positions, the lamps are rotated so that the outside edge of the beams are higher on each side than the inside. I think it was 12 degrees give or take, but didn't write it down.

Still have some seal work to do, but there is no glueing of the lamp parts in this setup.


Art,

Curious how you ended up sealing off the Hella fixture from the bucket? Just worried about moisture getting on the inside, and then condensing on the lens. Was considering waiting until I perform a final aim of them, and then putting a bead of silicone around the gap. My "hope" was that the silicone would be flexible enough should minor adjustments be needed? But then again, given the surface area that would be in contact, so sure how much it would provide.

-rob

[fletch]

Not sure what Art did, but I was planning to do something similar to this thread.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21902-Making-the-New-Headlights-Watertight-and-Removable

[J R Jones]

Interesting headlight observations:
My european cars have low beam illumination "wings" to light-up road signs on the shoulder. The wing is on the pavement edge lens only so there are left side and right side driver configurations.
My Toyota lamps of all sorts are sealed and also vented to avoid fogging. The vent has an upside down rubber hose "U" so the vent aperture faces down.
jim

[roadrashrob]

Not sure what Art did, but I was planning to do something similar to this thread.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21902-Making-the-New-Headlights-Watertight-and-Removable

Thanks Fletch. I actually had seen that thread via your posts, and like the method for sealing the exterior. My question is more around the backside where the Hella lamp fits into the headlight bucket. While it won't be exposed to the elements, it's still subject to humidity and condensation that could potentially form on the inside of the lens. Or so I think??
156757

[aquillen]

My headlight info at posts 239-240 and 287 show most of what I did but your question about sealing isn't shown there (except for the clear lens mounting)... here is what I did for the bucket to body, and for the projector housing into the bucket. This foam is soft and cushy and lets the bucket adjust for aim, at least enough for my build. I made metal rectangles that clamp under the 1/4-20 studs to hold the buckets in place. Easily removable for servicing.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1637616901/Headlight_bucket_gasket_01a_oxqvqb.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1637616946/Headlight_bucket_05a_majciz.jpg
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https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1637616920/Headlight_bucket_mount_studs_01a_kwxtft.jpg

[roadrashrob]

Awesome!!! Thank you.