Skip's 818R Build

[lclevert]

Starting a build thread for my 818R track toy. The plan is to build a track toy that is also registered for street use. We'll see how that works out.

Kit scheduled for March 26 completion.

Using an 03 WRX donor that I bought from an insurance auction. Hit in the right rear, but the car ran well.

Since I don't have any history on the car, I've been discovering things as I do the tear down. Pulled the engine and trans and began cleaning them up and replacing things like belts, water pump, hoses, clutch, flywheel, etc. I see that the turbo is not the standard Mitsubishi, but an IHI that I think was standard on some STI models. I also have pink injectors, a Perrin downpipe (I think thats what its called), and a GReady exhaust. At least thats the stuff I can see.

With all of that, I am assuming there is some type of aftermarket tune in the car. I bought a tactrix to see if I could download the ECU and see if I could tell what was in there. I can't seem to get the car to go into test mode though. I've connected the green connectors and installed the white jumper. I also found the green connectors in the passenger side footwell and they were connected. I do have the engine, trans, and now the fuel tank and related fuel tank stuff out of the car. I also have the airbag module disconnected. I noticed in the wiring diagram that I may need the neutral position switch on the transmission connected, so I jumpered that wire.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what else I might try? Did I disconnect something that needs to be there in order for the car to go into test mode? I would like to get this figured out before I pull all the wiring out.

Thanks

Skip

[Mitch Wright]

Skip,

Welcome to the 818R community.

[Pearldrummer7]

Skip-

Welcome to the forums! Always nice to see another R builder. I have one myself and love it.

From what I understand some tunes are not removable from the ECU, or not readable anyway (Cobb ones). It shouldn't matter much since you'll want to get it retuned in the 818 anyway (different exhaust and any other modification you make along the way). Sounds like a good donor. Where are you located?


Frank

[STiPWRD]

Skip, welcome

Quick question: After connecting the green connectors and jumpering the white one, when you turn your ignition to the ON position, do your radiator fans turn on? If so, if so you are in test mode. You only have a second or two to read the ECU ROM from the time you turn the key to ON until the fans turn on. I had this issue as well. Here's what the ROM Raider FAQ says:

"Once you are in test mode, connect your OpenPort cable to your OBD-II port and your computer. Then open EcuFlash and select “read from ecu” from the ECU menu. Do not turn on your ignition until prompted to do so. You will be presented with a list of read methods - choose the one that closest matches your vehicle (see the troubleshooting section below if you are not sure). When the next box pops up, turn your ignition on, immediately hit OK and the bar at the bottom of the window will indicate the progress of the download."
http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/RomRaiderFAQ#toc15

[Sgt.Gator]

Great to have another R builder!

[lclevert]

Thanks. I'm in Huntsville, AL.

STiPWRD, I don't think it is going into test mode. Radiator fans do not come on and the dash lights do not flash as I read they are supposed to. No CEL, etc. As I mentioned, I had already started dismantling things before I decided to try this, so I don't know if I have something disconnected that needs to be there. Engine and trans are removed, airbag module is disconnected, fuel tank is out. If I can't figure it out, I'll wait until I start wiring it up in the 818 to troubleshoot. Is it possible to bench tune the ECU, i.e. send the ECU to someone to tune for me?

Since this is mostly a track toy, I was planning to stick to a budget and not go overboard on this build. I want something nice and reliable, not trying to push the motor beyond its limits. Subaru is new to me and as I've been reading about the oiling problems with the engine, and fuel starvation problems with the tank, I think by budget is in jeopardy. I built one of the early 4.6 DOHC roadster/cobras back in 2004 and dealt with all of the moroso oil pan problems with that setup. I put in an accusump and been tracking it for 10 years without any issues. That car has been extremely reliable.

Looking forward to building this one. I'll post some pics once I have something worthwhile to post. I just put the engine and trans back together and found one of the starter bolts stripped. Off to find a longer bolt.

Skip

[lclevert]

Making up stuff to do while waiting on my kit

Made a bump steer kit with steel tube and weld in threaded inserts

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Progress on chopping up the wiring

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Skip

[FFRSpec72]

Radiator fans do not come on and the dash lights do not flash as I read they are supposed to.

Might want to consider not running the fans at all if this is going to be a track car as you can create quite a bit of cooling if you block off the radiator area and this will save you 20+ lbs for the fans.

[longislandwrx]

Interesting idea, but I cant believe the fans weigh 20lbs.

[FFRSpec72]

Interesting idea, but I cant believe the fans weigh 20lbs.

Yep, both fans from a 02' WRX weighed in at 19.5 lbs (shrouds, fans and pigtails).

[RetroRacing]

We have no fans, in any of our race cars, saves weight and current draw

[lclevert]

With no fans, how long can you sit on a hot grid before getting too hot?

[Mitch Wright]

My car takes a long time to warm up just sitting at idle, maybe 20 minutes. I have added a 10" fan on a manuel switch more for cool down than anything else.

[FFRSpec72]

With no fans, how long can you sit on a hot grid before getting too hot?

I don't idle much on grid, we also have a 5min warning were all engines must be off and can start at the 1 minute warning. The main issue will be cool down (heat soak) and that you will need a portable fan or a mounted fan to help out with

[Sgt.Gator]

I tried going without fans on the LGT. The problem was waiting in the scales line after the race caused overheating. If you are in a class that doesn't have to wait for the scales it will probably be fine.

[lclevert]

Is there any issue with running the primary fan only, and removing the secondary? You could at least save half the weight. Would 1 fan provide sufficient cooling?

[lclevert]

and dropped off this...

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[FFRSpec72]

Have fun its a journey !

[RetroRacing]

Win and there is no wait for the scales.....:p

[FFRSpec72]

Win and there is no wait for the scales.....:p

yea but the ground pounders always get there first

[RetroRacing]

For now.....for now.

[Mitch Wright]

Nice Easter present, have fun and enjoy your build.
FYI I am only running a single 10" fan, I have 30 shakedown miles on the car with out the body. Granted it was a 50* day the water temp never got over 170* on track and letting it idle got it up to 200* switched on the fan and pulled the temp right down to 180* in a short time.

[lclevert]

I've been delinquent in updating my build thread. Too much going on with work, home, etc. Build is going slower that I planned but making progress. It seems like everything I put on, I take off and redo at least twice. Anyway, I'm at the gocart stage and did my first start this weekend. First try was a no-go as I dieted the clutch safety switch by accident and had to chase that down. Once corrected, it fired right up, idled, and seems to run better than expected. CEL is on because of all the stuff that is not there - TGVs, rear O2 sensor, the evap stuff, etc. I'm now working on cleaning up the donor wiring to fit in the car. Not an easy task when the engine used to be in the front and now its in the back. I also cut down the center console 4" which make running all the wiring in there challenging.

A couple of pictures:

Rear bulkhead with ECU and fuse box mounted. I'll make a cover to hide all of this.
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Wiring in the front still needing to be cleaned up. Accusump mounted in the passenger footwell.
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Dash sitting in place just to see where things can go.
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I also tried rough setting the camber to see what I can get. On the rear I think I can get all the camber I want with the adjustable links. On the front, I can get to -1 degree. It looks like I'll have to somehow shorten the upper control arms. They are currently screwed all the way in. Does anyone have any tips on how to best shorten these to get more camber? Any downside to shortening them? It seems like every time I modify something, I create 4 more issues to solve.

Making progress slowly but surely.

Skip

[lclevert]

I've removed the oil to water cooler, installed a sandwich adapter, and external oil cooler, and accusump to try to address some of the oiling issues. There was not a good way to route oil lines without having extra long hoses, that I didn't want to have, so I ran them b/w the passenger side head and exhaust. In order to do this I cut and modified the exhaust heat shield in that location to make room.

I wrapped the exhaust (actually the heat shield) with DEI titanium exhaust wrap, and aluminized fiberglass heat shield over the oil lines in this location. The oil lines are not touching the exhaust heat shield but it is fairly close. Am I going to be OK with this, or am I just asking for a big problem???

The exhaust is covered by a metal heat shield, which is covered in DEI exhaust wrap, and the oil lines are covered with heat shielding. Is this going to be safe?

Some pictures of the cooler and oil lines.

Oil cooler
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Oil lines under head to the cooler
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[Hindsight]

-1 is all I can get as well. You have to cut down the tube nuts and cut off some of the threaded rod too. I need to do this on mine to get more caster. The threads are 3/4"... might want a tap and die in that size handy to clean up the threads.

[Mitch Wright]

I think I cut off a 1/2 inch on both UCA studs on each control arm and beveled the ends on my belt sander. I also flipped the stud on the back or the LCA which will allow for more caster. Some have added a 10mm spacer to get the caster they needed. I am currently able to get 6* of caster with out additional spacers.
Congratulations on your first start, that is a good feeling and the first go kart is even better.

[lclevert]

Thanks for the input. I assume you have to trim both the UCA studs and the nut to shorten the distance. I'll add this to my todo list.

Anyone have input on my oil line routing?

Skip

[Wayne Presley]

Thanks for the input. I assume you have to trim both the UCA studs and the nut to shorten the distance. I'll add this to my todo list.

Anyone have input on my oil line routing?

Skip

It's where I had to route them on the last 818 I built. I put fire sleeve over each hose, then larger fire sleeve over both and header wrap around the exhaust manifold.

[lclevert]

Some updates on my build progress...

I have most of my wiring issues resolved and everything seems to be working.

I think I have my cooling system bled now. I haven't been able to get out anywhere and run it hard to see if there are going to be any cooling problems, but I've been watching all of the related threads.

Oil leaks fixed.

As they say, 1 step forward and 2 steps back, but I seem to be chipping away at the rock.

Here is a picture of my rear wing mounting structure in the process of being built. I went with the APR GTC-250 67".

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Replaced my getto catch cans with a Perrin AOS.
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Starting to put the body on.
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My attempt to cool the TMIC. Converting 2 humps into 1 big hump that will funnel air into the TMIC. We'll see how that works out once I get it finished.
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[FFRSpec72]

Skip, Looking good ! I see you have an AOS there, thought about a dry sump yet ?

[lclevert]

I have an accusump and external oil cooler. I've been watching the dry sump thread and worried about oiling issues as this will be a track car. That looks like more than I can bite off myself, so I'll wait until someone gets it worked out and tested, and then offer it as a complete kit with instructions that I can follow.

Skip

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I had a 3 qt acccusump. It lasted 300 autocross runs and 7 track days on a 100k engine. Maybe it was just time.
Bob

[RetroRacing]

The Elements kit took about an hour to install, the tank is another issue as every car is built differently so placement is different. If you are not running a passenger seat, you could fit it easily in that area and still keep the lines short. It is about as plug and play as you get, until Gator finishes his unit.
Nice intercooler scoop! check your airflow over the windshield though, not sure if the air will "bump" over it...we built our own as well.
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[FFRSpec72]

The Elements kit took about an hour to install, the tank is another issue as every car is built differently so placement is different. If you are not running a passenger seat, you could fit it easily in that area and still keep the lines short. It is about as plug and play as you get, until Gator finishes his unit.
Nice intercooler scoop! check your airflow over the windshield though, not sure if the air will "bump" over it...we built our own as well.
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+5 hours to pull and replace engine (this is the part I hate, drain cooling, drain oil, etc.)

[RetroRacing]

Yup!
But, we installed the kit with the engine in the car to make sure there were no clearance issues, that took only an hour.

[FFRSpec72]

Yup!
But, we installed the kit with the engine in the car to make sure there were no clearance issues, that took only an hour.

So it is possible ? I may try that and not pull the engine.

[Mitch Wright]

Tony,
Just drop the header/exhaust manifold (unbolted the up pipe and left it in place) then all the pan bolts are easy to get at with plenty of room.

[lclevert]

Spent some time this weekend on the rear engine cover and deck lid, along with duct work for the TMIC. I see what you mean Retro about air bumping over the scoop from the windscreen. I may need to trim the windscreen on the passenger side and just leave a hump on the driver side. I don't plan on having a passenger seat.

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[C.Plavan]

So it is possible ? I may try that and not pull the engine.

I installed my Dry Sump kit with motor in the car no problem.

[lclevert]

Had a rear exit exhaust made. Straight pipe exiting near transmission.

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Rear underbody panels and diffuser.

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