Addition of new nose pieces to previous gen 818S

[metros]

I'm trying to ensure I'm reading the manual revision correctly and picturing it in my head correctly.

On page 18 of the manual revision - showing the front fender supports - the front lower supports that connect to the lower radiator nose are bolted in place - correct?

On page 17 of the manual revision - showing the upper front fender supports - they are bolted to a bracket welded to the radiator nose cone. However, early generation 818S didn't have that bracket welded onto the nose. Are the builders who are upgrading to the new nose compared to previous generation 818S supposed to weld that plate on? Or are you recommending rivnuts? For something that will support that much weight (front fenders being driven at speed), rivnuts seem not quite strong enough. But I'll take the advice of more experienced builders or FFR if they want to weigh in on this.

Tips?

[07FIREBLADE]

You could weld it in place. Bolts are provided and long enough to go all the way through so I wouldn't use rivnuts. What I'm worried about is the front aluminum. I don't see any mention of it in the manual revision and major changes seem like they need to be made to get everything to work correctly.

[Jim Schenck]

The holes in the plates are there to through-bolt the brackets on a retrofit, I would stick with the bolts instead of the riv-nuts in this case just because the loads on the nose can get pretty high, particularly if you have the splitter.

There is updated aluminum as well, for where these brackets pass through the floor.

[metros]

Thanks for the feedback. How far from the tip of the nose piece should the upper and lower mounts be attached?

[Jim Schenck]

I'll have to get back to you when I get in to work tomorrow but I can take a quick measurement then.

[metros]

Perfect, I appreciate it.

[07FIREBLADE]

Perfect I'll send Courtnie and email and see if I can get the new aluminum. I was starring at it the other day and was debating on the best scenario to make the cuts.

[Jim Schenck]

The top bracket mounts 6-1/4 inches back on the tube, measuring along the outside upper edge of the tube from the front of the car. The lower bracket is 9/16 of an inch back from the front, measuring along the bottom outside edge of that tube.

Hope that is clear but if not let me know.

[metros]

Perfectly clear. Thanks Jim.

[Meatball]

I'm trying to ensure I'm reading the manual revision correctly and picturing it in my head correctly.

On page 18 of the manual revision - showing the front fender supports - the front lower supports that connect to the lower radiator nose are bolted in place - correct?

On page 17 of the manual revision - showing the upper front fender supports - they are bolted to a bracket welded to the radiator nose cone. However, early generation 818S didn't have that bracket welded onto the nose. Are the builders who are upgrading to the new nose compared to previous generation 818S supposed to weld that plate on? Or are you recommending rivnuts? For something that will support that much weight (front fenders being driven at speed), rivnuts seem not quite strong enough. But I'll take the advice of more experienced builders or FFR if they want to weigh in on this.

Tips?

I'm confused here. I haven't received my new nose yet so I am having trouble picturing what is included and what isn't. Are you saying guys saying on page 17, the brackets that are shown welded to the nose will need to be welded on in a retrofit? Jim's answer makes it sound like that isn't the case...

[metros]

We've confirmed that they do not need to be welded on. That was my initial perception but FFR and other builders corrected me.

Jim gave some measurements of where their brackets are located on the nose support in order to support the new front fenders.

[Meatball]

I am completely confirming that I'm just not smart enough for this build. Haha

does someone have a photo of their previous generation nose and the retrofit without welding. I just can't picture it in my little pea brain.
Thanks

Rob

[Meatball]

I think maybe I am just not sure what the pictures on page 17-19 are showing. Page 17 is showing the triangular radiator mount that is removable in case of a crash? Correct? If that is so, I certainly don't have that welded tab on mine. How do I get it on there?

[Mechie3]

The 818C comes with that tab welded on. The 818S/R with the new nose comes with those.

The original 818S and 818R did not have those pieces. Those tabs come as part of the upgrade and are bolted on.

[Meatball]

Ah...okay then. I'll have to drill holes in the correct spot and bolt them on. I'm with ya now, aren't I? Thanks Mechie

[Frank818]

I'll email Courtnie as well for the updated aluminum piece.

[taco20]

513415134251343513445134551346

I used the measurements Jim gave and the aluminum panels to set the brackets. Nose attaches much easier with new lower brackets lining things up. Front spliter had more braces to bolt to also.

[gwarden]

I would clekco the aluminum in place then the brackets will mount in the gaps. I mounted the brackets first then had to trim the aluminum to fit.

[metros]

^^^Wish I had done that now that I see how the aluminum panels mount.

Anyway - I've loosely bolted the new brackets in place. I went to locate the drill location for the long outer/lower support and realized that my pieces are perfectly straight. The manual revision shows pieces that are twisted in order to accommodate the different angles of the 2 ends. Have other builders received twisted supports or did that themselves?

Loosely bolted together:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160319_165418_zps31vm29cl.jpg

The long skinny support in question - left hand side of the box. All nice and powdercoated.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160313_123840_zps6zz8e7gr.jpg

[gwarden]

I had to twist the long support pieces with a vise and wrench even after powder coating

[metros]

I used the same strategy that you did and I'm surprised that the finish came out mostly unscathed. I layered 4 or 5 pieces of painters tape in the area I was working and kept twisting in different locations (within 3" span) so that the same spot wasn't receiving the abuse.

When I was locating the drill location on the top of the long skinny supports - I clamped all of the loose adjustment points into the center range. Then once everything is bolted together they can still be adjusted in either direction. Once they were all clamped I then leveled the lower fender support with boxes/paint stir sticks. Then I started making the twist on the skinny supports and ultimately once everything lined up together nicely I drilled the location. Ultimately I'm happy with how it all went together. One thing I liked that FFR did was create tabs on the pieces that bolt to the radiator support. The tabs keep the holes centered on the radiator support, which makes lining them up and drilling very simple. Measure from the nose and drill.

Anybody with the new nose have pictures of the rear of the front fender, specially where it meets the windshield? I know there is going to need some trimming there and would like to see how much others have removed in that location.

[ewingate]

Is it a 90 degree twist that needs to be made on the long support?

[metros]

I wouldn't say it's a perfect 90. Go ahead little at a time until you get everything cooperating.

[coloskydiver]

Does anyone have the link to update manual for the new nose. I got my updated nose a few weeks ago but there are no instructions that came with it. I am not in a bid hurry as I am finally able to enjoy my car and am not ready for it to be down for awhile. Thanks.

[Hindsight]

PM me your e-mail and I'll send it to you.

[Frank818]

Does anyone have a picture of the "twist" successfully made?

[Frank818]

Does anyone have a picture of the "twist" successfully made?

Never mind it's in the 1P manual.

[Frank818]

Loosely bolted together:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160319_165418_zps31vm29cl.jpg


Metros, the bottom brackets are mounted 9/16 back from the bead or back from the very front end tube? The tube is 12/16 so the bracket would mount on the tube edge, which I don't think is right.

On the below pic, the 9/16 is measured by the green dots? Or blue dots?
Also, it is up to the outer edge of the bracket (green vertical line)?

52859

[metros]

I used the green dots because otherwise the bracket didn't fit flush to the bar. These brackets have a ton of adjust-ability built into them, I think you'll be fine there.

[Frank818]

Ok cool. I think I'll weld them in place, cuz I haven't weld in a long time, now. loll Would be 8 holes less on the frame too.

Like someone else noticed, the alu panels on the sides need to be trim to fit the upper rad support bracket, but it's not that bad.

[Quiny]

I would clekco the aluminum in place then the brackets will mount in the gaps. I mounted the brackets first then had to trim the aluminum to fit.

+1 that was great advice. I found a much different measurement on my bracket when I centered it in the aluminum panel opening. If the 6-1/4" dimension is correct you will need to trim the aluminum a lot. I got more like 5-5/8". I guess I will find out if that was a mistake when I bolt the fenders on. My chassis is 116 so things may have also changed since then. Can anyone with a factory welded bracket show this same pic?
53438

[Frank818]

I had to twist the long support pieces with a vise and wrench even after powder coating

You are pretty good! I tried that, heated the bar with a torch first, then tried to twist it and nothing did.