SOLIDWORKS-Mike's 818S Build Thread

[Solidworks-Mike]

Figured I could start my build thread since I'm making headway on gathering up all the stuff I need for both the car and the garage. My kit is supposed to be ready to ship in mid-March. So far I've sourced a few aftermarket goodies but have yet to figure out the donor parts. A good friend of mine runs a salvage yard in So Calif so I'm going to see if he can help me pick up a car from an auction using his connections and licenses. My aim is to use a 2006 WRX 2.5L Turbo for the build. Since I work for SOLIDWORKS and have access to our full suite of products I'm going to model up some of the custom parts just for fun.

Along with cleaning out the garage and making some shelf space, I got started on building the dolly to set the car on. So far I have the base done and I'll fire up the saw tomorrow to cut the stacks of wood for the actual supports:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1626/25301998436_974ad60aa9_k.jpg

My list of things to do once the build starts grows with every hour I spend going back through the previous build threads!

The blue machine is a 50 watt laser engraver/cutter that I'm hoping to use for some of the parts. Also, don't mind the Christmas goodies, that's the donation pile heading to Goodwill tomorrow!

[Sgt.Gator]

Welcome!
Where do you live?

[Solidworks-Mike]

Welcome!
Where do you live?

I'm in Las Vegas.

[Hindsight]

Welcome. Looking forward to watching your progress!

[Solidworks-Mike]

Making some progress on the build prep. Hoping to have a delivery date of April 1 or 2 as long as the completion date from FFR sticks which I don't see any issue with. In the mean time I'm working on gathering donor parts.

First off I got the dolly finished. I ended up using 650 pound rated wheels from Harbor Freight:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1671/24802605303_c8470078e9_b.jpg

Bought a gage cluster and a DBW throttle pedal from someone on NASIOC. My plan is to mod the gages a bit with led lighting and maybe some different faces so that's why I bought it ahead of time. I bought the Wilwood pedals from FFR so I only needed the throttle pedal to complete that part of the build and the guy had one:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1520/25429231305_1cc74a95fa_b.jpg

So with the Wilwood set up I guess I won't need these:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1663/25310895082_feeea64263_b.jpg

Hoping to line up the rest of the donor parts from someone in PA as long as the cost to ship to Vegas isn't too bad!

[Mechie3]

I'm a huge fan of Solidworks!

This is the very first writeup I ever did:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1124644

Instead of wiring up individual leds you can now inexpensively buy flexible LED strips. The process is the same though. For best results, leave the OEM bulbs in place to light up the needles.

[DrunkenSailor]

I have to agree with Mechie3, I am also a huge fan of Solidworks. i have been using it since SW2004. Unfortunately when i changed jobs, my new employer does not use it so I have lost access.

I look forward to seeing your build.

[Loring]

I like SW too, but I couldn't find a setup for my Mac when I started, so I've been running TurboCAD Pro. I guess once you get used to something, it can be hard to switch, haha.

In any event, I'm looking forward to some of the stuff you come up with.

[Solidworks-Mike]

I'm a huge fan of Solidworks!

This is the very first writeup I ever did:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1124644

Instead of wiring up individual leds you can now inexpensively buy flexible LED strips. The process is the same though. For best results, leave the OEM bulbs in place to light up the needles.

Definitely don't want to go through all of that process! I was thinking simple light up overlays like this:

http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/SmkAAOSw9N1VvJkO/s-l225.jpg

I too am a huge fan of SOLIDWORKS but I may be biased! We have some of the best customers in the world, and FFR is one of them. I love flipping through the build manual and seeing a bunch of screen shots of the CAD model. As a company we have built a couple of FFR cars in the past led by my good friend (and former boss) Jeremy Luchini. My house is full of products designed by our customers and now it looks as if my garage will be too!

[Solidworks-Mike]

I travel for work a few times a month which I'm sure will limit my build availability once I start on the kit, but I do get to visit some cool customers along the way. This week I was in Southern California and met up with a couple of friends/customers that work at Oakley. Prior to working at SOLIDWORKS I used to work at a company that built plastic injection molds and one of their customers was Oakley. I designed several molds for them over the years and all of them are still running to this day. Somewhere down in this area are a few of my mold designs running:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1508/25029509893_593fbec819_b.jpg

But it's always nice to come home to UPS packages! Such is the case with this trip as a couple of pre-build items were waiting for me:

First up is a Grimspeed lightweight crank pulley and oil filter relocation kit:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1512/25537523342_1a3d98c89e_b.jpg

And a brand new radiator with dual fan set up:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1700/25563579781_a3319a0136_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1550/25025723114_66d3169eaa_b.jpg

That will be about it for parts for a few weeks other than a 'large' shipment from Zero Decibel I'm awaiting. Next trip is in about 10 days to Waltham Mass which should allow me to get down to Wareham to drop off some stuff for one of the guys. Hopefully my kit will be somewhere in the middle of the country in a Stewart truck on its way to Vegas by that point!

[Solidworks-Mike]

Kit and transport are all paid for and should hit the road from FFR late next week. I'll actually be at FFR next week, so I'll have to see if my kit is still there or not!

In the mean time more parts continue to come in:

Received all of the Frozen Boost parts that I ordered from Zero Decibel, awaiting a rather large shipment of Zero Decibel parts to arrive in the near future as well:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1593/25193810613_78d9d66ae6_b.jpg

Engine hoist is ready for my parts pallet to arrive late next week as well:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1576/25699466782_30020399dd_b.jpg

And finally the work area is all set up with Direct TV, computer, and bench space:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1455/25820423725_5bdec98a18_b.jpg

[longislandwrx]

I see no place for beer, what kind of work environment is this?!!?

[Solidworks-Mike]

I see no place for beer, what kind of work environment is this?!!?

The fridge is inside so I have more room in the garage for car parts!

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1587/25207359573_e4474487f6_b.jpg

[Mechie3]

Received all of the Frozen Boost parts that I ordered from Zero Decibel, awaiting a rather large shipment of Zero Decibel parts to arrive in the near future as well:


I'm just waiting on boxes to come in and everything is out the door!

[Solidworks-Mike]

I'm just waiting on boxes to come in and everything is out the door!

Awesome, my shelves of parts are filling up, now I just need to fill the big hole where the kit will go! I'm sure I'll have some additional purchases from you in the future!

[wleehendrick]

Engine hoist is ready for my parts pallet to arrive late next week as well:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1576/25699466782_30020399dd_b.jpg


Hi Mike,

Looks like you're really prepared for the build! Have fun and good luck. Just a heads-up, that looks like the same 1 ton hoist I have; some builders had issues with it not having enough reach to install the motor in the 818 (interfering with the trans mount). It worked for me, but you'll need it at max extension, and install the motor and trans together (to shift the c.g. rearward). Like this is just barely reaches! Also, a balance bar will help immensely when the time comes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36886&d=1419740089

[Solidworks-Mike]

Trying to get the little things out of the way before the kit arrives, so installing a chip to reset the odometer back to zero was tonight's project. I ordered one of the EEPROMs from K3LAG's thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14464-K3LAG-Electronics-Odometer-Reset-EEPROMs-for-sale&highlight=odometer) and followed the dis-assembly instructions (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12055-The-Savage-build-thread&p=151484&viewfull=1#post151484).

All taken apart:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1619/25822193866_5f7fcdc534_b.jpg

The chip in question:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1615/25822191946_a049de55da_b.jpg

Replaced by the new chip:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1490/25753124021_c46d7cf6a6_b.jpg

The most difficult part of the process is removing the old chip. All I had was a solder sucker but solder wick would have been much easier. Guess I'll find out if it worked when I get to the step where I can power up the car! Unless someone knows how to test it on the bench?

[STiPWRD]

Mike, your cluster can be powered up by connecting 12V to pin C10 and ground to pin C6. I took a guess that you have a later model cluster but for the earlier ones it would be pins A10 and A6. Make sure you download the wiring manual for whatever year wiring harness and ECU you end up getting.
516295163051631

[Solidworks-Mike]

Mike, your cluster can be powered up by connecting 12V to pin C10 and ground to pin C6. I took a guess that you have a later model cluster but for the earlier ones it would be pins A10 and A6. Make sure you download the wiring manual for whatever year wiring harness and ECU you end up getting.
516295163051631

Thanks for the info. I'm using parts from a 2006, so it's a later model. Any suggestions on where to obtain the wiring manual online?

[STiPWRD]

Thanks for the info. I'm using parts from a 2006, so it's a later model. Any suggestions on where to obtain the wiring manual online?

http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/06%20impreza%20FSM.zip

[Solidworks-Mike]

http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/06%20impreza%20FSM.zip

Awesome, thanks!

[Santiago]

Holy cow! You WORK for Solidworks! That's awesome! I love SW! I've been using it to model some flow simulations of different aero parts. To say I'm "struggling" with modeling the body is an understatement - it's been slow going, but I have a nice hood... =) I'm doing up the rear of the car next. If you know a guy...

Looking forward to your build - great work space (I am a little concerned that the beer is too far away...).

Best,
-j

[Solidworks-Mike]

Looks like my soldering skills were good enough:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1619/25569742350_0e517334a4_b.jpg

[Solidworks-Mike]

Got word today that the kit is finished and waiting for Stewart to pick it up and head west with it. Decided to mess around with the laser machine to do some engraving:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1685/25880940301_76c87c9939_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1718/25343195774_ba766beb58_b.jpg

A little off center on the set up, but that's why I practiced on a part that is pretty hard to see when installed!

[AZPete]

OMG, it's going to be fun watching this build.

[Aero STI]

That cool.

Do you plan on designing and selling any parts?

[Solidworks-Mike]

That cool.

Do you plan on designing and selling any parts?

Not as far as I can see, especially with all of the parts that others have already designed and sold. If I had access to a machine shop then I would have made some of my own stuff, but it was simply easier to order almost one of everything Zero Decibel makes and sells. I was chatting with a buddy here in town who is a lead rigger for one of the Cirque shows on the strip and we were looking at the build manual and were discussing a few potential things, but until I get the kit here and start working on it it's hard to formulate ideas.

As far as designing stuff, it would be pretty simple since I have access to the tools to design in, and have my prior experience working in a mold shop for 15 years to fall back on for manufacturability.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Got a nice box in the mail today from Zero Decibel Motorsports:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1447/26038943921_15426199ac_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1532/25500543054_4c99761060_b.jpg

After a little bit of file and debur work, the parts are off to powder-coat this week. Thinking a nice royal blue for the brackets, and a flat grey for the hinges. Also received some my heat and sound protection as well as placed my McMaster Carr order for drill bits and fasteners, and an order for lubricants and fluids. Pretty much just waiting for Stewart to decide when they want to load up the kit and get it on its way to me.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Let the fun begin! The donor parts arrived today so I get to start going through all of that stuff and cleaning it up:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1579/26212619751_b8e1ef98e1_b.jpg

Spoke with Stewart and I'm hoping for a kit delivery tomorrow or Saturday, so fingers crossed because I'll be in Boston for 12 days beginning Monday.

[Mechie3]

How did I miss the laser?!?

[Solidworks-Mike]

How did I miss the laser?!?

It's easy to miss things when trying to scan through threads. The laser is yours to play with anytime you like, I know its a bit of a drive to Vegas, but I don't use it as much anymore.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Well, Stewart was a no show this week, and now I'm getting ready to head to Boston for 11 days so I guess they'll be storing my kit in Phoenix for a bit longer. I guess they're waiting for a truck that's coming my way so they can stick my kit on it.

In the mean time I have lots of cleaning and donor part prep.

Here's my 2006 WRX 2.5 Turbo motor (minus the turbo which the supplier forgot to include in the crate):

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1601/25736476113_2d1472480f_b.jpg

First project was cleaning up the front lower control arms. Here is a clean one, and one not cleaned yet:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1542/26066372300_41397e5ac8_b.jpg

I then moved on to cleaning up the front and rear spindles. I was able to get the axels out of the fronts and one of the rears, but one of the rears seems to be stuck together pretty good. We tried on a 20 ton press and it wouldn't budge, so I think I'm going to start looking for a replacement spindle and CV joint.

Of course cleaning up rusty parts requires our good friend the Bucket 'O Doom:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1501/26313282396_681dbe0360_b.jpg

So after sitting in it overnight, and a little bit of navel jelly, the rust was gone:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1525/26066374170_fd8223390a_b.jpg

*A side note on the hammer. I made that my senior year in high school (1990) and it's kind of cool I'm getting to use it on this project.

Next up was depowering the steering rack which was a pain. Three of the fittings wouldn't come off, so I cut off the tubing. The ones on the main body I ended up cutting off and covering the hole with JB Weld. Stopped by a hose fitting place and got some caps for the other open fittings:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1625/26273018101_44fba086a4_b.jpg

While removing the degas tank for relocation in the car, this hose that was attached to the bottom of the tank is still attached to the engine, what do I do with this hose now:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1716/26313284076_514c1547fe_b.jpg

These two pipes are just hanging out, are these the lines that get looped together?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1682/26246847972_7231470acb_b.jpg

[bompus]

Next up was depowering the steering rack which was a pain. Three of the fittings wouldn't come off, so I cut off the tubing.


I had the same issue on mine, and with a few other fasteners that wouldn't budge. I found that a heat gun does the trick most of the time :)

[Hindsight]

The two pipes in the last picture get looped together with the u-shaped coolant hose FFR supplies in the kit.

No sure I understand your previous question about what to do with the hose the degas tank connected to. You mention you are relocating the degas tank.... any reason why you'd relocate it and not reconnect it back to this hose? The purpose of the degas tank is to automatically bleed the coolant system while the engine runs, and also to help make the cooling system easier to fill by not having as many issues with air pockets. It needs to be the highest point in the coolant system. You can do without it but you may have issues with air in the coolant system and overheating. I created my own degas tank and relocated it, but my relocation was to mount it to the frame directly above that hose shown in your pic. I then used a 1/2" vertical section of hose to go down to the coolant pipe instead of the OEM hose with a 90 degree bend in it. Pics in my build thread.

[idf]

Replace the hose with a longer one to reach your relocated degas tank.
While you are in Boston if you have time to drive 20 miles south I'd be happy to have you check out my completed 818 (same donor as yours).

[Mechie3]

He's using my relocation bracket which swings the tank cap out from under the frame. Remove the hose that is left and use the hose supplied with the kit. I S and a single 21" long piece. It needs to be cut to make two pieces. I dont cut it to let the end user determine the size they need.

[Solidworks-Mike]

The two pipes in the last picture get looped together with the u-shaped coolant hose FFR supplies in the kit.

No sure I understand your previous question about what to do with the hose the degas tank connected to. You mention you are relocating the degas tank.... any reason why you'd relocate it and not reconnect it back to this hose? The purpose of the degas tank is to automatically bleed the coolant system while the engine runs, and also to help make the cooling system easier to fill by not having as many issues with air pockets. It needs to be the highest point in the coolant system. You can do without it but you may have issues with air in the coolant system and overheating. I created my own degas tank and relocated it, but my relocation was to mount it to the frame directly above that hose shown in your pic. I then used a 1/2" vertical section of hose to go down to the coolant pipe instead of the OEM hose with a 90 degree bend in it. Pics in my build thread.

Thanks for the explanation, I'm going to essentially do what you outlined, so I need to extend that hose using the bracket from Mechie3

[Solidworks-Mike]

Replace the hose with a longer one to reach your relocated degas tank.
While you are in Boston if you have time to drive 20 miles south I'd be happy to have you check out my completed 818 (same donor as yours).


I may take you up on that. I'll actually be in Waltham, but next Sunday I have to pick up someone from Logan who's flying in, so maybe that day. I'll send you a PM.

[Solidworks-Mike]

He's using my relocation bracket which swings the tank cap out from under the frame. Remove the hose that is left and use the hose supplied with the kit. I S and a single 21" long piece. It needs to be cut to make two pieces. I dont cut it to let the end user determine the size they need.


Ha, one of the few things I didn't order from you! Order incoming!

[Mechie3]

Lol. My bad. You pretty much ordered 1 of everything so I thought you had that. :D

[aquillen]

It's easy to miss things when trying to scan through threads. The laser is yours to play with anytime you like, I know its a bit of a drive to Vegas, but I don't use it as much anymore.

Mechie, Mike -

I've got one of those lasers too, up here NW Indiana. I know Mechie can make it that far. Need some excuses to run the thing for that matter. Mike - software I got was pretty much Chinese mess. Wondering if you got that all sorted and maybe something better. I got this to do some product etching on plastic for a project that is still out to lunch. Would be cool to do some 818 "things" with it.

Art

[aquillen]

Trying to get the little things out of the way before the kit arrives, so installing a chip to reset the odometer back to zero was tonight's project. I ordered one of the EEPROMs from K3LAG's thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14464-K3LAG-Electronics-Odometer-Reset-EEPROMs-for-sale&highlight=odometer) and followed the dis-assembly instructions (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12055-The-Savage-build-thread&p=151484&viewfull=1#post151484).

All taken apart:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1619/25822193866_5f7fcdc534_b.jpg

The chip in question:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1615/25822191946_a049de55da_b.jpg

Replaced by the new chip:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1490/25753124021_c46d7cf6a6_b.jpg

The most difficult part of the process is removing the old chip. All I had was a solder sucker but solder wick would have been much easier. Guess I'll find out if it worked when I get to the step where I can power up the car! Unless someone knows how to test it on the bench?

I thought K3LAG had stopped doing these chips. Unless I'm lost in the thread pile, I don't see anything since summer '15 from him. I picked up chips, and my old Needhams EMP20 programmer does read and write these, so am about to figure out the code (using some help from outside forum info I found a while back). But if K3LAG has useable code I'd like to "borrow it"... My project is to reset 2001-2002 H6 odometer though, not 4 cyl. Probably about the same Hex/locations but I need to do the analysis to make sure. I already copied the original chip to another and dropped that one onto the board. It read the same so I know my 1995 vintage programmer is still good. Odometer reads... are you ready for this: 305698. Wonder if that donor was still on the first motor - don't really want that # in my 818 from the git-go.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Mechie, Mike -

I've got one of those lasers too, up here NW Indiana. I know Mechie can make it that far. Need some excuses to run the thing for that matter. Mike - software I got was pretty much Chinese mess. Wondering if you got that all sorted and maybe something better. I got this to do some product etching on plastic for a project that is still out to lunch. Would be cool to do some 818 "things" with it.

Art

Pretty much stuck using the RDWorks (not affiliated with SOLIDWORKS) software that comes with it. This guy on YouTube has a ton of videos about the machine and software that were super helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/user/SarbarMultimedia/videos

For creating geometry to cut, I use our free 2D CAD package (essentially a clone of AutoCAD) DraftSight: https://www.3ds.com/products-services/draftsight-cad-software/

I pretty much use this guide for setting speeds and cutting power: http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/manuals/speedsfeeds_RL.pdf

Other than that, it's pretty much trial and error!

[aquillen]

I knew what was coming with the laser was lacking, but da** the torpedoes, full speed ahead... right? Every tid bit helps though - thanks for the links. I'll check them out. I managed to etch some paper before I had to pack it up for our move last fall.

[Solidworks-Mike]

I thought K3LAG had stopped doing these chips. Unless I'm lost in the thread pile, I don't see anything since summer '15 from him. I picked up chips, and my old Needhams EMP20 programmer does read and write these, so am about to figure out the code (using some help from outside forum info I found a while back). But if K3LAG has useable code I'd like to "borrow it"... My project is to reset 2001-2002 H6 odometer though, not 4 cyl. Probably about the same Hex/locations but I need to do the analysis to make sure. I already copied the original chip to another and dropped that one onto the board. It read the same so I know my 1995 vintage programmer is still good. Odometer reads... are you ready for this: 305698. Wonder if that donor was still on the first motor - don't really want that # in my 818 from the git-go.

I sent him a private message and he happened to have a few left. Not sure what his status is otherwise, but shoot him a message.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Of course as expected, about 3 hours after I land in Boston, Stewart calls and schedules delivery for Wednesday! Guess I have to ask a friend to meet the driver so they can unload the kit in to my garage. It's going to be a long 12 days away from home!

[Rasmus]

That sucks man. :(

[Solidworks-Mike]

That sucks man. :(

Feel free to head over this weekend and get a jump on the build for me while I'm gone!

[Rasmus]

Sure thing. I only have two things to get done beforehand.

1. Finish my 818
2. Drive my 818
3. Build yours. :cool:

[Solidworks-Mike]

The kit has arrived! Unfortunately I'm 2,800 miles from it in Boston. It's like myself and the kit traded places!

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1472/26418699135_a4edbcb4c4_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1454/26392768646_001e6b13b1_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1633/26392769376_7a655d05b1_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1646/26352529871_d933625135_b.jpg

For now it sits tucked away in the garage until I get back in a week:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1629/26326517452_8be3750d16_b.jpg

[Mitch Wright]

Looking forward to watching your build.

[Solidworks-Mike]

So after getting back from my trip to Boston I was able to get into build. Spent most of Friday night going through the parts and have several items on back order including the build manual, the headlight lenses, shifter base, and shifter cables. First order of business was to remove the body:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1635/26333931630_2eb634d08d_b.jpg

Of course step one is the plastic plugs which I tapped in using a hammer I made in high school in 1990:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1631/26514178492_74c742c8d2_b.jpg

I got the front firewall mounted except for the piece in front of the pedal box since I'm using the Wildwood kit:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1525/26607272495_b5104b6a1c_b.jpg

Trying to get the motor all reassembled so I put on the Grimmspeed up pipe and the turbo:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1574/26001558734_672e283c7f_b.jpg

Next up was the freshly painted intake and the Zerolift TGV deletes:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1450/26333930780_f0f2fb8134_b.jpg

Today I plan to clean and paint the alternator, not sure how that will go since I'm not too sure about taking it apart and being able to put it back together:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1482/26514179252_12856e4c71_b.jpg

Finally, the envelope with the packing list didn't have a certificate from FFR, should it have been in there?

Also, the list shows that I got the race splitter instead of the street version, does this indeed look like the race version, and will it look funny on a street kit:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1651/26514180532_cb8bc0cb91_b.jpg

[Mechie3]

I think the race splitter is longer. I took aparty alternator. I think there where two spots you need to put in a pin to.hold the brushes in a retracted position. Then after it's back together pull the pins.

[Solidworks-Mike]

I think the race splitter is longer. I took aparty alternator. I think there where two spots you need to put in a pin to.hold the brushes in a retracted position. Then after it's back together pull the pins.

I remember seeing that somewhere on here as well, so I'll look for it. Based on the pics on the FFR site, it is longer, I'll have to check my order sheet and see what we selected that day. Got your box by the way, thanks!

[mikeb75]

Mechie is correct about alternator reassembly. I lunched mine when I took it apart to clean and paint, and that was after about 2 hours of working to get it reassembled with the (really annoying) pins holding the brushes (?) to drop the rotor assembly back in.

[idf]

Your splitter is the same as mine. I'm not sure if it is race or street, but I think it looks ok on my car. You get to choose how far you extend it forward.
My certificate of origin came when the back ordered parts came.
Be careful with the wiring with the TGV deletes. I messed something up when I removed mine and have still not sorted it out. Remember that one of the TGV motors (the one with 4 wires) has the ambient air pressure sensor built into it which you will need to preserve. There is a link on the forum to a NASIOC posting on how to do this.

[Hindsight]

Remember that one of the TGV motors (the one with 4 wires) has the ambient air pressure sensor built into it which you will need to preserve. There is a link on the forum to a NASIOC posting on how to do this.

I'm not sure if it's different for different years, but on my 2007, it was the air pump / egr valve that had the ambient pressure sensor built in.

[idf]

I'm not sure if it's different for different years, but on my 2007, it was the air pump / egr valve that had the ambient pressure sensor built in.

Sorry, Hindsight is correct.

[Solidworks-Mike]

I'm not sure if it's different for different years, but on my 2007, it was the air pump / egr valve that had the ambient pressure sensor built in.


Sorry, Hindsight is correct.

I double checked and both plugs have only 3 wires so the sensor is on the air pump. I'm planning to add a resistor across those two wires once I can dig up the thread that has the info in it!

[Solidworks-Mike]

So, a slight oversight on my part in that the Wilwood pedal set up uses a completely different firewall! So out with the panels I mounted yesterday, and in with the new ones (still need to trim off the parts that stick out to match the old panels:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1694/26629990495_39c3854b03_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1632/26629993355_6f4029d495_b.jpg

Also got the motor all back together including the wire harness. Was also able to take apart the alternator to paint it:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1562/26629990865_0597872c30_b.jpg

Anyone know how to set the tension on the belt correctly?

I wasn't able to find any installation instructions for the Wilwood pedals, so I took a bunch of pictures for anyone in the future that might need them. Posted them in a thread here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20805-Wilwood-Pedal-Install&p=235342#post235342

[Rasmus]

Anyone know how to set the tension on the belt correctly?

http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/diagrammatics/belt-tension-00obw.gif
Shoot for around 10 mm of deflection when using about 10kg of force.

[aquillen]

Mike,

If you still have your front arms off the frame, I'm wondering if I can ask a favor. I'm looking at using 08' style parts so competely different. Lots of research and probable welding coming. One thing is understanding some differences in dimensions. If you would be willing - I have doctor'ed your pix from earlier to show lengths I need. The perspective of the camera shot may be misleading. Since I don't have the style arms normally used - like yours - I don't yet know whether the ball joint is in line or back set like suggested in the attached pix. Can you put a carpenter's framing square (for example) on top of an arm and give me dimensions to the points I drew here? (I love millimeters if you have the means).... Probably need to scare up back end info too but it can wait.

Many thanks either way! Art.

53287

[Solidworks-Mike]

Mike,

If you still have your front arms off the frame, I'm wondering if I can ask a favor. I'm looking at using 08' style parts so competely different. Lots of research and probable welding coming. One thing is understanding some differences in dimensions. If you would be willing - I have doctor'ed your pix from earlier to show lengths I need. The perspective of the camera shot may be misleading. Since I don't have the style arms normally used - like yours - I don't yet know whether the ball joint is in line or back set like suggested in the attached pix. Can you put a carpenter's framing square (for example) on top of an arm and give me dimensions to the points I drew here? (I love millimeters if you have the means).... Probably need to scare up back end info too but it can wait.

Many thanks either way! Art.

53287

Art,

A= 331.19mm
B= 348.90mm
C= 51.84mm

When A and B are perpendicular, then there is a value for C. If you draw a line from the intersection of A and B to the center of the balljoint, it an angle of 8.60 degrees.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1489/26567899642_abc6a9a409_o.jpg

I verified those numbers on the actual part using a metric measuring tape, and they matched.

[aquillen]

Mike wrote: I verified those numbers on the actual part using a metric measuring tape, and they matched...

Wow - I couldn't ask for more exacting info and it's certainly just what I need. Very much appreciated & hoping to repay the favor. -art

[Solidworks-Mike]

http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/diagrammatics/belt-tension-00obw.gif
Shoot for around 10 mm of deflection when using about 10kg of force.

I think I'll just convince you to stop by to use your expert judgement on the tension!

[Solidworks-Mike]

Had a few hours tonight after work to do some stuff on the car so figured I'd mount the steering rack and the throttle pedal.

First up, the throttle:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1452/26576446022_cba3be59a0_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1487/26576448212_b206a74d91_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1597/26065382123_f5f96a2a6a_b.jpg

Next up was the steering rack including the nice shiny mount from Zero Decibel:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1649/26065380923_5cd1edd3a9_b.jpg

Finally, can someone tell me where this line from the turbo should be connected to:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1701/26063712694_b213a89d68_b.jpg

[Rasmus]

Finally, can someone tell me where this line from the turbo should be connected to:

Believe that goes to the EBCS (electronic boost control solenoid).

[Solidworks-Mike]

Believe that goes to the EBCS (electronic boost control solenoid).

Ah yes, another missing part!

[wleehendrick]

Had a few hours tonight after work to do some stuff on the car so figured I'd mount the steering rack and the throttle pedal.

FYI, FFR's mount for the DBW pedal puts it too low/foreward for good heel-n-toe operation, IMHO. I bent the upper part of the bracket and used a standoff on the lower mounting point to get the pedal in a better spot. There's a tiny bit of flex, so I'll probably install a stop at some point.

[wleehendrick]

FYI, FFR's mount for the DBW pedal puts it too low/foreward for good heel-n-toe operation, IMHO. I bent the upper part of the bracket and used a standoff on the lower mounting point to get the pedal in a better spot. There's a tiny bit of flex, so I'll probably install a stop at some point.

I just noticed the Wilwood pedals; my comments were with respect to the OEM pedal box, so don't know how those sit in relation. However, before you move on, I'd recommend evaluating the position.

[Solidworks-Mike]

I just noticed the Wilwood pedals; my comments were with respect to the OEM pedal box, so don't know how those sit in relation. However, before you move on, I'd recommend evaluating the position.

Since I won't be racing the car I'm more then ok with moving my foot from brake to throttle as I normally do when I drive. Because of that I'm not too concerned about how close they are but more with them being inline with each other. Based on the amount of fore and aft adjustment on the Wilwood pedals, this shouldn't be an issue. The bracket does have a tiny bit of flex so I might try to rectify that as well. All of this of course has to wait until I get my seats!

[Solidworks-Mike]

A few more hours tonight, and a few minor steps forward.

Hung the upper control arms:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1496/26621769301_cf181e1806_b.jpg

Then decided to throw in the steering column to see how everything lined up. The arm of the brake pedal hit the side of the column when I pull it all the way towards the seat, but I don't think I'll have them adjusted out so far anyways.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1685/26621770171_a644086ec6_b.jpg

Then I decided to mount the front clip and radiator:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1598/26414632980_5ac17a02f2_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1495/26083965833_3979346c93_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1647/26414633740_f16eba2aba_b.jpg

Tomorrow I leave on a trip thats going to have me out of the state then out of the country for about the next 3 weeks, so until then this is where I'll leave things at:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1518/26083965123_10ff09162a_b.jpg

[wleehendrick]

Since I won't be racing the car I'm more then ok with moving my foot from brake to throttle as I normally do when I drive. Because of that I'm not too concerned about how close they are but more with them being inline with each other.

I used to do that, but since I learned proper heel-and-toe technique, I often now use in daily driving. IMHO, it's one of the things that makes driving a manual transmission that much more enjoyable, even on the street! I always rev-match downshifts (unless coming to a complete stop, then I usually just leave the clutch depressed), and the only way to rev-match while braking is to heel-and-toe (unless you have a newer Vette, BMW or 370Z that have automatic throttle blip downshift function on their MT's).

Nailing a proper rev-matched downshift which braking for a corner adds so much to the enjoyment of the intimate man/machine interface (which is what the 818 is all about to me). I would recommend practicing some heel-and-toe work, and getting the pedals placed appropriately to do so. FYI, I prefer foot placement more like this graphic:

http://i.makeagif.com/media/9-19-2015/_XlXaE.gif

But this requires good pedal placement; the 818's 06-07 DBW bracket unfortunately does not allow it. I was able to do so with a slight modification, as described. I have difficulty with the lower leg rotation required to do it like this, when the pedals are further apart or not lined up:

http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view2/4325936/heel-and-toe-shifting-o.gif


Safe travels!

[Rasmus]

I love heel-toeing in my daily driver. Makes for great practice. ;)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I bent the bracket on my 06 DBW pedal as shown.

53396

In the end, I went with the DBW pedal out of the 04FXT.

53397

53398

Looks like I need to practice that heal toe foot action.

I needed to add a pedal stop to prevent ECU faults.

53399

Bob

[Solidworks-Mike]

The pedal I have has a built in stop, but I was wondering about needing to add one when I had seen your install a while back.

[wleehendrick]

The pedal I have has a built in stop, but I was wondering about needing to add one when I had seen your install a while back.

Yeah, my 06 pedal has a stop too, but the bracket flexes a bit since the force is off-center of the two mounting points. I'm sure it would be fine for casual driving, but successive exuberant stomps on the throttle (who would do that?) could stress it, so I will probably make a stop like Bob's.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Back from Africa and able to get some work done!

First order of business was to flip the chassis on it's side in order to fit and mount the under seat aluminum:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7064/27124641655_b64c12aa30_b.jpg

Next we moved on to hanging some of the front suspension:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7420/26520787823_8c281151c7_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7404/27091453396_f27f4a2e71_b.jpg

One issue we are confused over however is the mounting of the rear bushing to the frame (next to the firewall). When we used the inner holes on the driver side, the distance from the ball joint to the firewall was about 1/2inch closer then it was on the passenger side where we used the inner holes. So to get the distance from the firewall to the ball joint to match the passenger side, we had to use the inner holes on the drivers side as shown:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7684/26520786073_396da1de53_b.jpg

Both sides now dimensionally match up even though they are using different mounting holes next to the firewall. Anyone have an idea as to why, or if our solution will be ok?

[Rasmus]

Welcome back. How were the rains down in Africa?

Mixing mounting hole like that seems really goofy to me. We all know that the FFR frames aren't Toyota quality as far as dimensions down to sub millimeter precision. But that's way off. What portion of the firewall are you using as a baseline? Did you cross measure to back up your finding? Example: Left ball joint to Right firewall.

Those outer mounting points for the lower front control arms are supposed to be for the wagon arms. Which are shorter.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Both sides now dimensionally match up even though they are using different mounting holes next to the firewall. Anyone have an idea as to why, or if our solution will be ok?

Hi Mike, Welcome back.
The rear bushing on you driver side is up-side-down. Just spin it 180 on the LCA shaft and remount in the inside holes.
Also mount the forward LCA bushing to the inside holes.

54122
The squiggle in bushing need to be down on the 818.

(edit) Your right side bushing is correct by the pictures. The squiggle in the bushing should be down.
Many have made that mistake.
Bob

[Solidworks-Mike]

Welcome back. How were the rains down in Africa?

Mixing mounting hole like that seems really goofy to me. We all know that the FFR frames aren't Toyota quality as far as dimensions down to sub millimeter precision. But that's way off. What portion of the firewall are you using as a baseline? Did you cross measure to back up your finding? Example: Left ball joint to Right firewall.

Those outer mounting points for the lower front control arms are supposed to be for the wagon arms. Which are shorter.

The rains down in Africa? I blessed them!

We measured from the ball joint to the frame, but it now seems as if the real issue is the bushing being upside down according to Bob!

[Solidworks-Mike]

Hi Mike, Welcome back.
The rear bushing on you driver side is up-side-down. Just spin it 180 on the LCA shaft and remount in the inside holes.
Also mount the forward LCA bushing to the inside holes.

54122
The squiggle in bushing need to be down on the 818.

(edit) Your right side bushing is correct by the pictures. The squiggle in the bushing should be down.
Many have made that mistake.
Bob

Bob,

Thanks for catching that, I was hoping it was something obvious.

[longislandwrx]

don't forget to add an additional ground strap to the intake manifold, I was told by Motive to do so.

[Solidworks-Mike]

don't forget to add an additional ground strap to the intake manifold, I was told by Motive to do so.

Yeah, those plastic TGV's don't conduct very well!

[Solidworks-Mike]

We're working on the rear suspension today and while listing out our bolt needs before a trip to McFadden Dale i'm at this point:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/27120297086_12d19d8317_b.jpg>


Can anyone confirm this bolt size?

We did discover that the control arm has two different bolt sizes (M12 and M14 at the spindle).

[Solidworks-Mike]

Wrapped up the weekend in the garage by cleaning up the trans and hanging the rear suspension.

Before

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7075/27114494731_b785b4842c_b.jpg

After:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7529/27114495021_25aa92215d_b.jpg

Then we moved on to the rear suspension:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/26577066184_c18bd0962c_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7222/26577059784_a02fc6415a_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7680/26577060254_eb49e8bfc9_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/26577058034_60687dc75f_b.jpg

Next it's on to the brakes then the cooling and brake lines.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Spending a little bit of time on sheet metal while I wait for brake components to arrive. So might as well mount some interior panels:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7202/26627869673_a1aa9b1587_b.jpg

https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7576/27233412015_4a2499354b_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7621/26958440280_c58a92489e_b.jpg

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7343/26627871123_484462da4e_b.jpg

[UnhipPopano]

One reported issue is that over time the long suspension bolt corrodes with the cast iron making its removal difficult. The forums discussing this recommend using a liberal amount of anti sizing lubricant. The information for Lock-Tight and similar products identify not to mix the two. Anyone have advice on how to apply both? Would applying a mask to the threads for insertion help?

[AZPete]

Mike, now's the time to make a rear-rear firewall. That's an aluminum panel between the front of the engine and the rear firewall frame - it gives you a clean protected place for wiring, ECU, fuel tank, etc. I did mine after putting the engine in and it was tough, so do it before the engine if you want it.
Here's a thread about this firewall: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21067-Engine-Bay-Firewall-Aluminum

[RetroRacing]

One of these should come with the kit, but for the sake of your hands, buy one!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROFESSIONAL-AIR-HYDRAULIC-PRO-RIVET-GUN-POP-RIVETER-POWER-TOOL-SET-KIT-/401058967807?hash=item5d60fa30ff:g:e6IAAOSw-zxWoVbi

[Solidworks-Mike]

One of these should come with the kit, but for the sake of your hands, buy one!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROFESSIONAL-AIR-HYDRAULIC-PRO-RIVET-GUN-POP-RIVETER-POWER-TOOL-SET-KIT-/401058967807?hash=item5d60fa30ff:g:e6IAAOSw-zxWoVbi

Agreed, it was one of the first tools I picked, it's not shown in the pics. I use the manual rivet gun in tight spots.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Mike, now's the time to make a rear-rear firewall. That's an aluminum panel between the front of the engine and the rear firewall frame - it gives you a clean protected place for wiring, ECU, fuel tank, etc. I did mine after putting the engine in and it was tough, so do it before the engine if you want it.
Here's a thread about this firewall: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21067-Engine-Bay-Firewall-Aluminum

Ive been debating on building one or not actually.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Since the mounting bracket for the brake reservoir is on back order I thought I'd make my own since my 3D printer is working again. Anyone see an issue with the location I'd like to mount it?

https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7487/27000764860_fb01bd223a_b.jpg

https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7702/27000764630_a649284df0_b.jpg

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7098/27206271411_0ac96b6a52_b.jpg

[STiPWRD]

That could interfere with the wiper depending on which solution you go with.

[Hindsight]

Just ensure its higher than the master cylinder. That location may make it tough to R&R the battery.

[Solidworks-Mike]

That could interfere with the wiper depending on which solution you go with.

Good point, might flip it to the other side of the bar and closer to the upper a-arm. Will only need wipers to pass visual inspection once.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Just ensure its higher than the master cylinder. That location may make it tough to R&R the battery.

Height was what I was most concerned with in terms of closing the hood. It looks like the outlet will be right at the same height as the master cylinders, but the reservoir will be higher. the battery is pretty far away from this area and shouldn't be an issue.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Got a little more work done the last few nights, mainly with the master cylinders and pedals:

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7763/27292032962_429fbba601_b.jpg

Went to the local hose supply store and bought actual brake fluid line so I don't have any issues down the road by using the supplied 'multi-use' hose:

https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7188/26782561574_a67c666638_b.jpg

Got the reservoir mounted:

https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7433/26783283453_1067146659_b.jpg

The kit only came with one reservoir, so can I tee the clutch master cylinder into the brake cylinder feed lines and have all three share the same reservoir?

https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7433/26783283453_1067146659_b.jpg

And yes, I still have to put the hose clamps on.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Well after some deep thought and reflections on what life has in store for me the next few years, I've decided I'm going to sell the kit before I finish it. Here is a link to the for sale thread:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22626-818S-Las-Vegas

Asking $17,500 for everything, have about $20k invested and I am negotiable on the price. What the pictures and build thread don't show is that the brake lines are about 90% complete and I put on all new brake components including rotars and calipers. Next thing to do will be the cooling lines and then its ready for motor and trans and then wiring followed up with electrical harness.

Hoping someone will want to take it over.

[turbomacncheese]

Oh man, that TRANSMISSION!! Beautiful! Sorry to hear you're letting go.

[Mitch Wright]

Sorry to hear and feel your pain the time for these projects can be tough. Looks like someone will get a great deal and start on a 818S.

[Frank818]

Sorry to hear that.

Wayne will certainly be a buyer, might want to PM him and I believe you aren't that far from Sweet Home Alabama.