Ricks Build Thread MK4

[RickP]

Thought I would get this thread going on my completion date 2/27. Kit is being delivered via Stewart. I considered picking up the kit myself but after crunching some numbers, doesn't make much sense. In fact, I don't think I could do it cheaper than what Stewart quoted me from FFR to the Phildelpphia area. Of course, I'm on their schedule now so I am hoping in the next week or so.

In the meantime, I do believe I have prepared properly or at least the best I can. Body buck is sucking up garage space, motor is built waiting on engine stand, tranny is stored somewhere in my sons room, and rear end is on jack stands just waiting.

This effort has been 2 years in the making and I can't tell you how excited I am to finally get started on the car itself.

Kit 112211

Base
Pdr coat frame
body cutouts
front lwr cntrl arms
4 link rear
ulta-lite guage set
leather seat
17" halibrands
roll bar grommet set
dash support
main chasis wiring
front/rear wilwoods
302 headers

motor:

SBF 331 internally balanced/blueprinted (11:8.1)

SCAT forged crank, rods, pistons (domed Mickey Thompson)
Lunati roller High eff Cam
Lunati roller lifters
Meling HF oil pump
Trick Flow chromoly rods
Scorpion 1.6 rollers
AFR 1388 Street 185 heads
Wieland street warrior intake
Wieland HF water pump
Holly Terminator EFI
CVF alt, pwr sterring pump, brackets

T5 completely rebuilt by Hanlon Motor Sports (Bob the tremac man)
rear end - 3.73 pinion and rebult with new Ford locker 31 spline

[rmiller64]

Congrats on your order Rick You'll have a lot of fun over the next year

Good luck with your build, There's a bunch of great people here to help you out

[RickP]

Congrats on your order Rick You'll have a lot of fun over the next year

Good luck with your build, There's a bunch of great people here to help you out

Thank you so much Rick. I promised myself to enjoy the experience along the way and I cannot wait to get started.

[RickP]

Wilwood brake kit should be waiting for me when I get home from work today. That should keep me side tracked for a little as I sit in anticipation of the kit to be delivered.

[RickP]

Got the call from Steve yesterday (Stewart Transport). Kit is coming tomorrow 3/6. How appropriate that the sun will be shining and the temperaure headed in a positive direction.

[Hottrodder427]

They deliver on a Sunday? That's awesome my completion date is today. Now I wait to hear from Stewart, my rear wildeood came in last week. Congrats on your kit. I'm heading to pounce de Leon fla in the morning to pick up my 390 Fe

[RickP]

They deliver on a Sunday? That's awesome my completion date is today. Now I wait to hear from Stewart, my rear wildeood came in last week. Congrats on your kit. I'm heading to pounce de Leon fla in the morning to pick up my 390 Fe

I guess they deliver on the weekend when the need arises. There is another 33 hot rod delivery very close to me happening on the same day. Funny you should say your rear Wilwood came last week. I had the same experience, but no fronts as of yet. Not really all that concerened as I will have plenty to do in the meantime. If your completion date is today, means you should be getting staged for pickup from Stewart sometime soon. I would give them a buzz just to make sure nothing has fallen through the cracks. Good luck with the 390.

[Hottrodder427]

Thanks I will be watching your build since mine is right behind. So the front and rear come from wildwood? I was wondering about that

[RickP]

Thanks I will be watching your build since mine is right behind. So the front and rear come from wildwood? I was wondering about that

yes, they are dropped shipped directly from Wilwood

[RickP]

yes, they are dropped shipped directly from Wilwood

thats only if you ordered the Wilwoods I should say

[Hottrodder427]

Yes I got the wildeood said all the way around

[Hottrodder427]

Yes I ordered them all the way around

[RickP]

Steve from Stewart Transport rolled up with this morning right on time. He had the car/boxes unloaded and in my garage in all of 45 minutes. These folks know what they are doing. Now I can work on de-"stressing" and get some inventory done.

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it's a good day here in Ricks garage :o

[wallace18]

Have fun and be thorough.

[Hottrodder427]

I didn't just get one 390 I bought three, but looks as one might be a cj 428 I'm am excited on your delivery man that's awesome

[RickP]

I havent waisted any time for sure. Just getting generally organized. Spent time doing inventory on all boxes. A couple of missing items but nothing that is going to hold me up in the short term. Even the back order list wont effect me moving forward. Since I am building in a very limited space, my overall concern was "will it all fit". Body came off today, and the body buck fits with ease in the garage.

Thats a major stressor out of the way. Now time to get busy.

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[RickP]

Made some great progress today. After going to painstaking lengths to capture all the panels/overlaps etc, I am down to frame.

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[RickP]

Does anyone know the proper stud size/length on the SN95 hubs? I picked up a pair off of ebay and the hubs are empty. Running the Wilwood slotted rotors and 17' Halibrand wheels. Also need to double check the studs that came with my rear axles. I think I remember seeing somewhere EdwardB mentioning 1/2 X 20 in his build thread.

Anyone?

[David Hodgkins]

1/2 X 20 sounds right to me too. I don't know the length; I ended up cutting mine for the pins of my Trigos...

:)

[RickP]

thank you David. I can make longer from short if it comes to that.

[RickP]

thank you David. I can make longer from short if it comes to that.

or wait, I meant shorter from longer. HA!

[edwardb]

Yes, the FFR supplied front hubs came with 1/2 x 20 studs, and they provided 1/2 x 20 replacement studs for the 2015 Mustang IRS hubs. I just checked the length. They appear to be 1-1/2 inches long, from inside the heads. Hard to get an exact measurement because I have the brakes installed and the calipers have the rotors captured in place. But that length is very close.

[RickP]

Yes, the FFR supplied front hubs came with 1/2 x 20 studs, and they provided 1/2 x 20 replacement studs for the 2015 Mustang IRS hubs. I just checked the length. They appear to be 1-1/2 inches long, from inside the heads. Hard to get an exact measurement because I have the brakes installed and the calipers have the rotors captured in place. But that length is very close.

Thank you edwardb. Exactly what I was looking for.

[Hottrodder427]

I guess they deliver on the weekend when the need arises. There is another 33 hot rod delivery very close to me happening on the same day. Funny you should say your rear Wilwood came last week. I had the same experience, but no fronts as of yet. Not really all that concerened as I will have plenty to do in the meantime. If your completion date is today, means you should be getting staged for pickup from Stewart sometime soon. I would give them a buzz just to make sure nothing has fallen through the cracks. Good luck with the 390.
I just received an e mail with tracking# for front brakes. And they are picking up my kit on Friday the 11

[RickP]

I just received an e mail with tracking# for front brakes. And they are picking up my kit on Friday the 11

Nice! Your going to be getting busy very soon. Congratulations.

[Hottrodder427]

Thanks Rick does Stewart call you when they pick the kit up or the day before they deliver

[RickP]

Thanks Rick does Stewart call you when they pick the kit up or the day before they deliver

Stewart calls when your the next delivery on the truck. What I did was call Stewart the Monday after my completion date to find out the day they anticipated picking up from FFR. At the time, they told me I was the second delivery. The first being in Connecticut. Since I'm in the Philadelphia area, I knew I would be in a 3 day window from the time Stewart loaded the car.

[RickP]

OK, I need a gut check before moving forward. The base kit manual says to mount the upper control arm to the horizontal hole locations. It even goes so far as to bold the word "horizontal". In Brian Smit's book, he mounts the arms vertically. I even came across a youtube video where the FFR tech is mounting them vertically. I am assuming the difference in the mounting location is determed by what Spindle is being used. The vertical being for the complete kit FFR supplied spindles and horizontal for anything else.

I'm using spindles off a 95 (Ford part# F5Z8AA). Also, would anyone happen to know the flange bolt size for the Spindle bracket to Spindle?

[RickP]

does anyone have experience with a spindle that is binding? I mounted the drivers side control arms, coilover and spindle/spindle bracket and everything articulates as I would expect. However, on the passender side, the spindle binds or cannot be moved past a certain point when simulating a left hand turn.

I mounted the upper control arm as noted above in a previous post (horizontal) and I pretty darn certain I have the ball joints seated fully. Lets just say it's not coming off. And the spacer between the spindle and castle nut has the conical facing down. Torqued to 100ft pds.

When I move the spindle in a left hand direction, the upper control arm wants to move up. Theres only so far it can go. Am I just needing to adjust the upper control arms? I didnt have to on the drivers side.

[edwardb]

I guess it could bind if way out of the alignment settings, which you can only roughly estimate at this time. Any chance you have the upper ball joints pointed the wrong direction? That's a common mistake. Linked picture is an FF spindle vs. Mustang, but shows the proper direction with the upper ball joint tilted outward. How about posting some pictures of your assembly? Both sides.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/th_IMG_3396_zpsaoq9daop.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3396_zpsaoq9daop.jpg.html)

[Hottrodder427]

Stewart calls when your the next delivery on the truck. What I did was call Stewart the Monday after my completion date to find out the day they anticipated picking up from FFR. At the time, they told me I was the second delivery. The first being in Connecticut. Since I'm in the Philadelphia area, I knew I would be in a 3 day window from the time Stewart loaded the car.
My anticipated date is tues or weds thanks for your advice

[RickP]

I guess it could bind if way out of the alignment settings, which you can only roughly estimate at this time. Any chance you have the upper ball joints pointed the wrong direction? That's a common mistake. Linked picture is an FF spindle vs. Mustang, but shows the proper direction with the upper ball joint tilted outward. How about posting some pictures of your assembly? Both sides.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/th_IMG_3396_zpsaoq9daop.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3396_zpsaoq9daop.jpg.html)

Well edwardbm looks like you saved my butt AGAIN. Appears I have the ball joint (when compared to your pic) pointed in the wrong direction.

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[edwardb]

Well edwardb looks like you saved my butt AGAIN. Appears I have the ball joint (when compared to your pic) pointed in the wrong direction.

Don't feel alone. This has happened to others. You will need to take everything apart and flip that outer plate. Obviously means doing the ball joints over again. Sorry about that. The UCA's must be coming assembled differently from the supplier. I haven't had to do anything to mine. They were correct out of the box. Others haven't been so lucky, and if you don't catch it, well...

[RickP]

Don't feel alone. This has happened to others. You will need to take everything apart and flip that outer plate. Obviously means doing the ball joints over again. Sorry about that. The UCA's must be coming assembled differently from the supplier. I haven't had to do anything to mine. They were correct out of the box. Others haven't been so lucky, and if you don't catch it, well...

If I can get the spindle bracket removed from the ball joint, can I re-use the joint?

[edwardb]

If I can get the spindle bracket removed from the ball joint, can I re-use the joint?

All your parts should be reusable. Just taken apart and re-assembled with the UCA plate flipped over. The only exception would be cotter pins used in castle nuts.

[RickP]

All your parts should be reusable. Just taken apart and re-assembled with the UCA plate flipped over. The only exception would be cotter pins used in castle nuts.

Thanks edwardb. Looks like I have some work to do in the moring. I should of caught my mistake but I'm sure it will be the first of many.

P.S. you were spot on with the wheel lug advice. If I didn't have the 1.5 inches to start with that you so graciously measred, I would have been flyiing blind. OEM Ford studs for that model year range are obsolete. I cross referenced a Dorman set at the local pep boys and they are 2" from head to toe. Rears are 3'. I was able to pull fit them on the hubs using a spacer, washer combo and a correct size nut.

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[cnutting]

As I was doing inventory on my kit yesterday, I noticed that same issue with my UCA assemblies. I too will need to flip the plate.

Thank goodness for these boards, I've made a list of "common" issues that I'm keeping an eye out for as I prep each section...

[GoDadGo]

Welcome To The Factory Five Family!

You made a great decision going with Factory Five because their quality is like no other kit car manufacturer and I can honestly say that I looked at quite a few others over the period of five years before ordering my MK-4

If you haven't had a chance to ride in and/or drive a Factory Five you are in for a wonderful surprise. Before ordering my kit I was fortunate enough to not only ride in but drive a FFR MK-3 that had manual steering and brakes that was powered by a very healthy 302 with an upgraded T5. That car had the IRS rear and road and drove extremely well. About a year later I got another chance to ride in and drive a Factory Five, but this time it was a MK-4 that was crazy fast with Dyno-Sheets showing a bit over 600 HP to the rear wheels at 18 LBS of boost.

The flame that was lit with the MK-3 turned into an uncontrolled wildfire on that day and I knew I had to build one. That car had a 2003 super charged SVT modular motor, power steering and brakes, a TKO-600 with a three link rear suspension. It was so scary that I had to build one so the process began when I ordered mine on 11/10/2014 and it arrived in January of 2015.

Please know that I'm nearing the Go-Kart stage and about to install my drive train. The build process is always fun even thought it is sometimes frustrating so don't give up because it is always rewarding. Though I'm not finished yet, the build process has been great as have been the entire Factory Five Staff. You'll also meet some fantastic Factory Five Family Members too, so get ready for the experience of a life time.

Good Luck On Your Build & May God Bless You & Your Family!

Steve (aka/GoDadGo)

[NukeMMC]

As I was doing inventory on my kit yesterday, I noticed that same issue with my UCA assemblies. I too will need to flip the plate.

Thank goodness for these boards, I've made a list of "common" issues that I'm keeping an eye out for as I prep each section...

This is about the 3rd or 4th time in the forums I have read this mistake in the past month or so. I don't know if SPC is shipping the UCAs assembled this way or what (I had disassembled mine to anti-seize the threads), but I do caution folks that this is a point where the build manual actually helps. Mine shows very clearly the need to have the balljoints pointing outward at the bottom on Page 92 and has a good oblique view of a correctly assembled control arm on Page 95 (Rev 3P of the Base Manual). I knew better than to rely on the manual for many things during my build, especially with the modification I made, but I referred to it frequently during the suspension portion as it has all the torques and many tips on correctly installing the suspension, like leaving pivot bolts loose until initial alignment is done. This is also the point where you want to adjust the rebound damping on your Koni's, before installation.

[Jeff Kleiner]

This is about the 3rd or 4th time in the forums I have read this mistake in the past month or so. I don't know if SPC is shipping the UCAs assembled this way or what (I had disassembled mine to anti-seize the threads), but I do caution folks that this is a point where the build manual actually helps...

Agreed. No exageration; I know that I must have brought it to builders' attention at least a dozen times since FFR switched to the SPC arms with the angled ball joint plate a couple of years ago. Note that these arms are not unique to FFRs so SPC builds them in a base configuration which may or may not be correct for the end user's application. As Bruce also mentioned the Konis are another example; I've found that they are not all set the same right out of the box. These are the kind of things where the builders need to perform their due diligence. If you're unsure feel free to ask here... lots of us who've been down this path before (some more than once) are always happy to help :)

Jeff

[RickP]

This is about the 3rd or 4th time in the forums I have read this mistake in the past month or so. I don't know if SPC is shipping the UCAs assembled this way or what (I had disassembled mine to anti-seize the threads), but I do caution folks that this is a point where the build manual actually helps. Mine shows very clearly the need to have the balljoints pointing outward at the bottom on Page 92 and has a good oblique view of a correctly assembled control arm on Page 95 (Rev 3P of the Base Manual). I knew better than to rely on the manual for many things during my build, especially with the modification I made, but I referred to it frequently during the suspension portion as it has all the torques and many tips on correctly installing the suspension, like leaving pivot bolts loose until initial alignment is done. This is also the point where you want to adjust the rebound damping on your Koni's, before installation.

A bad assumption on my part led to the incorrectly installed UCA. I definitely took note of the ball joint orientation when I installed the passenger side arm. My mistake happened when I applied the same steps
on the drivers side from the previous day as "I've done this before". Instead I should have applied the same "steps" that led to success on the passenger side.

What I learned from the mistake is to be a more methodical builder and examine each part for correctness AND use the proper thread locker where noted. Had a heck of a time unscrewing the ball joint from the UCA to the point I would not re-use it for cosmetic reasons. That particular brand/part# joint is readily available. $17.00 mistake and a bruised ego is all the damage done.

I'm learning and more importantly, having fun!

[RickP]

Welcome To The Factory Five Family!

You made a great decision going with Factory Five because their quality is like no other kit car manufacturer and I can honestly say that I looked at quite a few others over the period of five years before ordering my MK-4

If you haven't had a chance to ride in and/or drive a Factory Five you are in for a wonderful surprise. Before ordering my kit I was fortunate enough to not only ride in but drive a FFR MK-3 that had manual steering and brakes that was powered by a very healthy 302 with an upgraded T5. That car had the IRS rear and road and drove extremely well. About a year later I got another chance to ride in and drive a Factory Five, but this time it was a MK-4 that was crazy fast with Dyno-Sheets showing a bit over 600 HP to the rear wheels at 18 LBS of boost.

The flame that was lit with the MK-3 turned into an uncontrolled wildfire on that day and I knew I had to build one. That car had a 2003 super charged SVT modular motor, power steering and brakes, a TKO-600 with a three link rear suspension. It was so scary that I had to build one so the process began when I ordered mine on 11/10/2014 and it arrived in January of 2015.

Please know that I'm nearing the Go-Kart stage and about to install my drive train. The build process is always fun even thought it is sometimes frustrating so don't give up because it is always rewarding. Though I'm not finished yet, the build process has been great as have been the entire Factory Five Staff. You'll also meet some fantastic Factory Five Family Members to so get ready for the experience of a life time.

Good Luck On Your Build & May God Bless You & Your Family!

Steve (aka/GoDadGo)

Thank you Steve. I'm really having fun learning and building this car and I am really happy to be apart of this wonderful community.

Rick

[RickP]

Now that I have overcome my incorrectly oriented ball-joint issue, I was able to move on to the brakes. Tomorrow I will tackle the passenger side..516505165151652

[RickP]

whelp, I've run into a fitment issue that I am hoping someone can offer some guidance on.

In a nutshell, my rear axle to flange offset is 2.5" Just so happens the Wilwood rear parking brake kit (140-12049) has an axle offset of 2.5" so the rotor bumps up against the caliper bracket. Not really sure what direction to go here. I could change the geometry by backspacing the offset, ask Wilwood for a different offset hub/rotor, or swap the Summit axles for Moser axles which I'm sure at this point I can no longer return.

Anyone run into the same predicament?

[RickP]

it occurs to me if I add more spacers between the flange bracket and the axle flange, it will move the caliper bracket further away from the rotor. But in doing so, I would have to add quite a few to make it clear enough to give the rotor some room between itself and the caliper bracket. I don't think this is my best option as I cannot account for the rotor swelling and rubbing against that bracket.

[RickP]

it occurs to me if I add more spacers between the flange bracket and the axle flange, it will move the caliper bracket further away from the rotor. But in doing so, I would have to add quite a few to make it clear enough to give the rotor some room between itself and the caliper bracket. I don't think this is my best option as I cannot account for the rotor swelling and rubbing against that bracket.

scratch that option. Tried adding a couple more washers which added another .060" to the original spaing of .060" and the rotor still interfered with the caliper bracket.

[RickP]

I ending up just holding my breath and adding enough spacers to clear the rotor/caliper bracket. The adage "it takes what it takes" is what I decided was the best resolve. After that, everything lined up nicely.

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[RickP]

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[RickP]

Thought I would get this thread up-to-date. Made some progress in the past couple of weeks once I got past my rear brake mount issues.

sorry my pics aren't big. Havent figured that out yet.

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[stack]

Looks great

stack

[Hottrodder427]

Looks real good,wish I had my konis lol and red calipers

[GoDadGo]

Thought I would get this thread up-to-date. Made some progress in the past couple of weeks once I got past my rear brake mount issues.

sorry my pics aren't big. Havent figured that out yet.

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You are getting there.
Just keep visualizing what you want and how you plan to service it.
By doing this you will really be shocked at how professional your car will turn out.
Also, look at EdwardB's builds.
This fellow has got it down and his stuff is way over the top from a quality perspective.

[wallace18]

Looking Great!

[JC Of NM]

Making progress, enjoy the build process.

[RickP]

You are getting there.
Just keep visualizing what you want and how you plan to service it.
By doing this you will really be shocked at how professional your car will turn out.
Also, look at EdwardB's builds.
This fellow has got it down and his stuff is way over the top from a quality perspective.

Edwardb needs to write a book. I constantly vist his build(s) for reference.

[RickP]

It's been an interesting couple of weeks. After going through 3 area powder coaters who either,
1.) expected way yoo much to coat
2.) considered my job too small
3.) had a contamination problem
4.) considered it ok to take 4 weeks to coat one single panel

I finally landed on Van Industries in Birdsboro, PA. Not only is their pricing fair, they turned around the work in no less than a week (two batches) all done in Kingsport gray. Panel fitment went smoothly and I am very glad I invested in a pneumatic rivet gun. I can't imagine doing it by hand. I made a couple of mistakes along the way but nothing that I could not remedy or put up with.

Next I moved on to the fuel system. This has been an adventure and I used EdwardB's current build as a template. Without his effort, I honestly think I would still be in the planning stage of the fuel delivery. I am supplying my own tank, pump, fuel line, filter etc., so I am working outside of the box. It took me quite some time to rap my head around tube/over hose selection, fittings, adapters, AN vs. NPT etc. The subject can be quite overwhelming to a beginner.

What I learned along the way and what EdwardB mentions in his build. If choosing -06 (3/8" OD) Stainless Steel tube;

1. SS tube of any O.D. is very difficult to bend.
2. SS tube of any O.D. is difficult to flare
3. SS tube is very difficult to straighten (get straight runs if you can).
4. Once you bend it, be sure thats where you want the bend, it's not bending back.

Since I could not or was not willing to flare this tubing choice, I took EdwardB's lead and ended up with a fitting that allows you to attach it to tube without a flare. They are made by Ham-Let and you can get them from Mark at Breeze. Very easy to install. Word of caution: be 100% sure the end of the tube is where you want it before you mount the fitting. Removal is possible but the inside ferrules will not come off. Consider it a permanent installation or search for new ferrules. I made the mistake of running the tube ends to long into the engine bay (my race hose would kink in reaching the regulator) so I had to cut down the tube and subsequently, the pre-mounted fittings. After unsuccessfully trying to take off the fittings, I just decided to re-order a couple more from Mark @ 15.00 bucks a pop. Waiting on those to ship.

Some other things I learned along the way. Use PTFE hose such as Aeroquip Race hose, and try not to mix different fitting manufacturers parts. I used Aeroquip hose as did EdwardB and used all Aeroquip fittings. I also chickened out when trying to make a solid connection on the feed line from tube to filter. So I ened up tunning hose for the remaining gap. The most difficult part of running hard line is getting it on the frame once it's bent. EdwardB has one nice advantage that I don't, a lift. Dragging the tube end across the garage floor will ruin the fittings connections so I had to be extremely careful. It also limited me in what I could do.

I still need to fit the pump, and lines connecting to it, then the feed/return lines from cockpit tube ends to regulator. Waiting on parts from Breeze. Will be starting to turn my attention to brake lines.

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[RickP]

Today I am going to drop the tank (hopefully for the last time) and get the bumper coupler nut mod done. I should of done this before mounting the tank but.....

[KDubU]

I found similar things with PC guys. Their rates really vary. Glad you found someone who can service you. SS is tough but looks good when you're done. I chose SS only for brakes, fuel I used the steel line to engine compartment and then aeroquip flex from there. Looks like you're coming along nicely.

[edwardb]

Hey Rick. Looking good. Glad my experience with the SS tubing was helpful. I agree with your points about what SS is like to work with. Just to add to this having done two builds with SS for both fuel and brake lines, my advice is right tubing and right tools. For my current build, I picked up a larger 3/8-inch tubing bender (Ridgid 36097) and that makes 3/8-inch pretty manageable to bend. For the flares, the Eastwood Pro flaring tool is pretty much the minimum for SS. For the 3/8-inch tubing, the Ham-Let Let-Lok fittings work great and don't require a flare. Keep up the great work!

[RickP]

Hey Rick. Looking good. Glad my experience with the SS tubing was helpful. I agree with your points about what SS is like to work with. Just to add to this having done two builds with SS for both fuel and brake lines, my advice is right tubing and right tools. For my current build, I picked up a larger 3/8-inch tubing bender (Ridgid 36097) and that makes 3/8-inch it pretty manageable to bend. For the flares, the Eastwood Pro flaring tool is pretty much the minimum for SS. For the 3/8-inch tubing, the Ham-Let Let-Lok fittings work great and don't require a flare. Keep up the great work!

Your build and experience that goes behind it all is my main "go to" when I don't know how to do something or need guidance on how to accomplish something. I even went out and bought the Maxleon head lamp you mentioned in your thread. Fantastic!!! Thank you.

My Harbor Frieght tube bender did all it could to bend that SS tube. I couldn't get it in straight runs as you did so I ended up purchasing the Eastwood 3/8 tube straightener(luckily, I have an Eastwood paints 5 minutes from me). It too had trouble with the SS. I cut down the roll in 2 -10' runs so it was more manageable. Got it fairly straight. But your right, right tool for the job is everything. Darn near went out and got the Rigid bender as you did. I have to agree that the Let Lok fittings are very nice. Solid connection, easy to install, and gee whiz, no flare needed. Instant AN fitting.

[RickP]

I haven't posted any progress in awhile. My laptop decided to take a nap. Since finishing up the brake plumbing which yet still have yet to be bled properly, I moved on to the installation of the Breeze battery box. Not much going on there. Mark includes very solid instructions and all hardware to mount.

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from there I decided to get the electrical components at least run to there prospective location. I am using the RF setup.

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[RickP]

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[RickP]

5565955660556615566255663I see the electrical is going to be a "work in progress" and I needed to get the trunk aluminum out to the powder coater so that was the next thing I did. Kicking myself for riveting in the cockpit back wall. Makes it pretty tough to get the upper trunk floor in.

and for the life of me, I still can't figure out how to make these pics big so one doesn't need to click on them to see any detail.

[RickP]

to finished off the trunk aluminum. I learned the hard way to not rivet down the rear cockpit wall. No matter, its all sealed up now.

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I'm in a phase of flux with the electrical in that it's all run to their prospective locations. I'm going to tackle the dash panel next and attempt to use the same method EdwardB did to hang his panel.

[RickP]

I've thought about and researched for quite some time about how I can implement an instrument panel that:

1. doesn't show any visible screws that don't belong there when installed. (you know what I mean!)
2. can easily be removed if needed
3. can be adjusted up or down so I can complete/test my wiring without fitting the body
4. and obviously, look good.

After studying several threads (EdwardB notable), and weeks of just thinking, here's my solution.

I liked the bracket system EdwardB used on his anniversary edition build and what several others have done but I wasn't comfortable trying to marry up a bracket of sorts to the 3/4" dash hoop so I decided to buy myself a little room by attaching a bracket (3 of them) to the dash hoop with a 8/32nd polynut. The bracket extends out towards the engine enough to allow some room to drill a hole and align a bottom bracket attached via a 1/4"x 1.5" bolt.

55996

a quick note about the upper bracket. I rivnutted it in place so I could remove it during the mock up. I will at some point go back and insert a 1/8 rivet along side the 8/32 button head. It will be permanent at that point.

I temporarily held a lower bracket in place so I could scribe a hole in the upper bracket. I then drilled/inserted a 1/4 polynut in the upper bracket. This will serve as the receiver for the lower bracket.

55997

from there I took the dash off and drilled two holes through the face of the dash to accept the lower bracket. I didn't need to eyeball this step because a 1/4 x 1.5 allen head bolt with a washer screwed into the upper bracket allowed for exact alignment to the lower bracket. Then it was just a matter of marking the two screw holes for the lower bracket that I had previously marked it's location against the back of the panel. I liked how EdwardB backed his dash up with a secondary piece of aluminum so I did sorta the same by JB Welding some square patches in place. Then drilled through these to complete the mounting locations for the lower bracket.

Adding the backing material takes the stress out of recessing the screw holes. You can barely see the second layer of backing aluminum in the recessed hole. Very glad I did this step.


55999

Then I mated the lower brackets to the panel with 8/32 bolts and nylon nuts. The brackets are strategically placed so as to not interfere with an instruments and also allow for access from below.
55998

sometimes the light bulb goes off when actually implementing something so it occurred to me I needed a spacer between the lower and upper bracket. 3/8x1 would suffice.

56002

all three brackets mounted
56001

nothing holding the panel in place other than the brackets. If I want to move the dash up, it would be a matter of decreasing the length of the spacers and visa versa if I want to lower it. When I get the body on, I can do my final adjustments and lock everything down.
56000


I will add 3 Breeze Dash mounts below and polynut them to the 2x2 lower dash bar. I also ordered the FFR dash support when I ordered the kit but I can already tell mounting it would be overkill. I'm thinking about using it however and building a console.

[GoDadGo]

Looking Good!

[RickP]

Looking Good!

thanks GoDadGo - she's coming along.

[michael pavon]

well congratulations!!!
i can only say that after we got ours about a month ago, everyday we look forward to get home to do something to it.. to that you can not put a price!
best of luck

[RickP]

After figuring out the dash mounting, I decided to tackle the task of getting a covering on it. I agree with EdwardB that the FFR supplied dash covering is a little puffy looking when gauges are inserted. Looks like the nap or foam is about a 1/4" thick. I followed EdwardB's play book and decided to do my own version of a "leather wrapped" dash. I used the same supplier he did and ordered some foam backing 1/8" thick and picked up a can of the DAP Landau and trim contact cement. Only sold in gallons. I am going to second EdwardB's review of this product as it brushes or rolls on easily, and when it sticks, it sticks.

After getting the holes cut for various switches, indicator lights etc, the first thing I did was cut down the foam to a "workable" size. I then traced out the dash on the foam so I would know where to land the glue.

56132

I then laid the dash over the foam backing and set it in place. Once some time passed, I cut out each hole ending up with a foam faced dash panel

56133

I knew the way I attached the foam to the panel could not be done the same way with the faux leather material. If any mistake would be made, now would be the time. Like I said before, the DAP contact cement sticks like no business.

I coated both the foam and leather material and once dry to the touch, I put some wax paper over the dash then very carefully laid down the leather while pulling out the wax paper between the two surfaces. You almost have to roll the leather on about 6 inches at a time making sure it lays flat.

56134

Once I had it initially "stuck", I used a plastic body filler scraper to really ensure it was "stuck in all the right places. From there, it was just a matter of trimming it up to a more manageable size using a good pair of scissors. Cut my slits and glued down all edges.
56135

Now the fun part. And I used a lot of razor blades to get the holes cut to accept gauges, switches etc. For the big holes I pie cut and glued. Same for the smaller engine monitoring gauge holes. For the smaller holes I just cut a circle the same size as the hole in the aluminum. Took a few hours to do.

56136

The next day I se the gauges in place. Finished product.

56137

56138

All I need to do now is wire it up and install.

P.S. - I'm fairly certain that everyone's kitchen table looks like mine at some point http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/icons/icon6.png

[dmoran]

Very nice job! I have been wondering what to do about my dash. I'm now feeling inspired :-) Thanks for the details and the pictures.


P.S. - I'm fairly certain that everyone's kitchen table looks like mine at some point

If that was my kitchen table, I would probably have been shot by my wife. Afterward, she would be wondering why my body was glued to the chair, the chair glued to the floor and the dashboard glued to the table. I could do a lot of damage with a gallon of contact cement in the kitchen...

[RickP]

Very nice job! I have been wondering what to do about my dash. I'm now feeling inspired :-) Thanks for the details and the pictures.



If that was my kitchen table, I would probably have been shot by my wife. Afterward, she would be wondering why my body was glued to the chair, the chair glued to the floor and the dashboard glued to the table. I could do a lot of damage with a gallon of contact cement in the kitchen...

thank you dmoran,

yeah..... can't say my better half was too thrilled with my effort. She didn't know what I was up too until the can was open and glue being applied. Too bad they don't sell it in smaller portions. It's actually meant to be sprayed. Post some pics when you get your dash underway.

[WIS89]

Rick-

I agree with dmoran, that my wife would be pretty darned upset. I think that's a job I would tackle when she was in the middle of a long day of shopping! HA

I like your work. The dash looks great, and your gauges look sharp!

Keep up the good worK!

Regards,

Steve

[RickP]

Rick-

I agree with dmoran, that my wife would be pretty darned upset. I think that's a job I would tackle when she was in the middle of a long day of shopping! HA

I like your work. The dash looks great, and your gauges look sharp!

Keep up the good worK!

Regards,

Steve

thank you Steve. Fact of the matter is my whole house looks like a car parts store. I've even commandeered a spare bedroom as a parts "waiting area". HA! As soon as I get done the wiring up of the gauges, she can have her kitchen table back. In the meantime, it's take out or I take her to dinner.

[cnutting]

Good timing, dash assembly is coming up soon. I'll pick up some of the DAP product. FFR gave me two different dash covers; one thick, one thin. I'm planning on using the thin as the thick looks like it will end up looking puffy.

[edwardb]

Dash is looking good! Glad some of my experiences where helpful. My wife is incredibly supportive of my car craziness. But I wouldn't get away with doing work on the kitchen table, let alone that incredibly strong smelling DAP Landau adhesive. :rolleyes:

[RickP]

Dash is looking good! Glad some of my experiences where helpful. My wife is incredibly supportive of my car craziness. But I wouldn't get away with doing work on the kitchen table, let alone that incredibly strong smelling DAP Landau adhesive. :rolleyes:

she just informed me we are having guests on Sunday. Guess I will have to relocate. I gotta say EdwardB, your car is a work of art. Your attention to detail is something to strive for. It really came out nice. I thank you for posting in such detail all your effort. Very helpful to me and other first time builders. I still say you should write a book.

[RickP]

I decided to give the dash/wiring a break while waiting on the Russ Thompson turn signal and various relays to arrive by switching gears and get the e-brake installed. Quite frankly, I have been dreading this step. I was hell bent on using "something" from my 87 donor and the brake handle was in decent condition. I really didn't want to put out the $$ for a Lokar setup. So I decided to give the OEM a go.

I have the Wilwood brakes and 87 solid axle. I had to overcome a previous issue when mounting the rear brakes where they ended up colliding with the shocks. If anyone is interested or have run into a similar issue, here is a thread I started awhile ago outlining the problem and the resolution I came up with.

for your viewing pleasure.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20618-Rear-Shock-Fitment

In the end, my calipers are mounted at a 2:00 o'clock position forward of the axle. This will require the brake cable to be mounted downward (pulling down). This issue coupled with all the prior builders posting problems, I have been putting it off. I was turning wrenches at 5:30 EST this morning trying to beat this heat wave we are having on the east coast. It was 90 degrees in the garage at 8:00am.

First up, get the handle mounted. I wasn't happy with the clearance between the handle and tranny tunnel aluminum (not even enough room to wrap your hand around the handle) so I took it off and bent the mounting tabs on the brake ever so slightly. Not great but better! And yes, I know it cannot be worked while strapped in.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56535&d=1469298565

I mounted the cables into the caliper first after removing powder coat from the brake line bracket ( .5' hole) and then routed the cables up and over the diff.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56533&d=1469298565

after attaching the cables into the first bracket above the diff, seemed the cables would be way too long. I DID NOT want to do this but in order to make the cables end up the right length, I went under the 4" round tube.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56531&d=1469298565

couple of things I'm not happy with aside from having to go under the 4" round tube.

1. After releasing the brake handle, the brakes were dragging. So I added a helper spring. Seems to work but I think I need to bleed the brakes one more time and also, adjust the e-handle.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56534&d=1469298565

2. And lastly, when the e-brake is engaged, the OEM equalizer is hitting or almost hitting the bracket to the left of my finger.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56532&d=1469298565

the pic above is with the handle in the released or down position.

I gotta feeling I will be paying this area of the car another visit but if anyone can offer some advice like " how can I add slack to the brake line by adjusting the e-brake" it would be greatly appreciated.

Bonus................... figured out how to post full size pics. Whoop whoop!

[bluse]

The dash looks awesome, nicely done.

[RickP]

The dash looks awesome, nicely done.

Thank you. Speaking of dash. The Russ Thompson turn signal arrived in the mail and I couldn't wait to get it installed. Just need to finalize some wiring and it's done. I think it turned out pretty nice!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56591&d=1469385101

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56590&d=1469385101

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56589&d=1469385101

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56588&d=1469385101

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56587&d=1469385101

[RickP]

Today was a banner day in Rick's garage. I am finally at a rolling chassis point. I ended up choosing Nitto NT555 - 255/40/17's for the front and NT555 G2's - 315/35/17's for the rear. After having to re-route the caliper brake lines to fit the big Halibrand wheels, she rolled out of the garage with ease. Of course, for every action there is a reaction, not so sure my body buck will fit around those big tires. Hmmm.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56717&d=1469552891

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56716&d=1469552889

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56714&d=1469552886

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56713&d=1469552884

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56720&d=1469552895

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56719&d=1469552893

[carlewms]

Rick,

Congratulations on this significant achievement ... Soon you will be go karting!

[RickP]

Rick,

Congratulations on this significant achievement ... Soon you will be go karting!

Thank you! I feel a major sense of accomplishment reaching this point in the build. Now I am pushing to get the driveline installed. That will be another huge milestone.

[RickP]

Thought I would post some progress made as of late. I recently purchased the Breeze Seat installation kit for the classic seats. Mark recommends not installing the kit until after the carpet is installed but I rarely listen to reasoning... The kit consists of two plates; one mounts to the frame/cockpit floor via rivets, and another plate in which the seat is bolted too and then subsequently mounted to the floor plate via a couple of knobs and 1/2 nuts. I really like Mark's stuff as it's well thought out and he explains the installation thoroughly. For an MK4 with classic seats, the seat can only be adjusted by removing the seat first (from above), then adjusting the top plate to your liking. Removing the seat from above is tricky but it's all based on where you locate your attachment holes. That said, I will never adjust the seat. The one thing I did care about and what the kit offers is the support under your thighs is raised. Kind of naturally bends your knees to the correct foot pedal angle. Not the only reason I purchased the kit but it's up there as to why.

To get past "installing after the carpet is installed issue" I decided I could transfer the footprint of the bottom plate to the carpet at a later date.

First up was getting the upper plate fitted to the seat where I could access the bolts for removal/installation and then get a relative seat position. Once satisfied with the seat location, time to get the bottom plate drilled and in position.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57050&d=1470244292

Next I placed a paper cutout of the mirror of the carpet down and placed the plate on top and relocated the previously drilled rivet holes

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57047&d=1470244289

Once a trace of the outside dimension of the base plate is transferred to the paper, I now have my template to be used during carpet install time.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57049&d=1470244291

Now the easy part: a little silicone and the correct rivets (which Mark supplies) in the right location and the base plate is down.


drivers side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57073&d=1470248345

Attach the seat mount plate to the base plate with the back nuts and the front supplied knobs

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57051&d=1470244293

and lastly (and the fun part) is mounting the seat to the top plate with 4 flat head bolts/lock nuts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57052&d=1470244294

Mark recommends drilling the seat frame mounting holes on the furthest rear facing cross support but I figured there would be no way to get my sausage hands back there to get the nut under a bolt, so I moved them inward and the next nearest cross member. In hindsight, after installing the seats once using the "from above method" I would cut the mounting holes slightly different and not reuse the front pre-drilled holes. The setup I currently have will do just fine but if I was adjusting the seat all the time, I would make the bolt holes more accessible.

I'll close with some "first" impressions after sinking my butt into the drivers seat for the first time as I have never had the pleasure driving one of these cars let alone never sat in one.

I'm just shy of 6' medium build and if your a big boy, your gonna be pinching for room. Maybe a different seat setup but what struck me most is this is not a car you get into, you feel as if the car is built around you. In short, you wear it. My very next impression was a growing sense of a healthy fear of the car. I don't consider myself a sissy when it comes to cars. I've owned motorcycles all my life and raced them back in the day. Also owned some notable "fast" cars as well. That said, and I know owners of these cars can probably identify with me is I don't think I will ever be able to master driving the car to it's limit. I don't have a motor in it yet but it's taking shape and with 400 horses right in your nose and your can sitting over the drive train, I can easily envision this is a machine that your average joe cannot get into and just drive. What I am trying to say is, this is a car that needs to be respected!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57053&d=1470244295

[RickP]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57054&d=1470244296

[WIS89]

Rick-

She looks great! I have to ask though... Now that the seats are in, and you just got your wheels and tires installed, are you getting some friends together to push you up and down the driveway while you make engine noises? I have to tell you, I know that I would be doing that every day!!

Keep up the good work, and I look forward to seeing your powerplant installed!

Regards,

Steve

[RickP]

Rick-

She looks great! I have to ask though... Now that the seats are in, and you just got your wheels and tires installed, are you getting some friends together to push you up and down the driveway while you make engine noises? I have to tell you, I know that I would be doing that every day!!

Keep up the good work, and I look forward to seeing your powerplant installed!

Regards,

Steve

Your too funny and yes, if I could get some friends together that could keep a secret (and they can't), I surely would be running up and down the driveway. Gathering last minute parts to get the engine dropped in. Seems somewhere along the lines I forgot to obtain a throw out bearing and an inner clutch bearing. As always......waiting on parts. Ha!

[RickP]

I decided to take a step forward and get the motor/trans installed in the car. With the help of my son, we buttoned up the flywheel, clutch, and bell housing and mated the transmission. I remember the tense feeling as the assembly was hanging on its own several feet above the garage floor. I equate that same feeling of hanging a hand built motor over a hand built car to launching a brand new boat in a cross wind for the first time with a wife who has no clue what to do and a 4 yo and 2 yo who could care less. Same tense "what can go wrong feeling".

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57379&d=1470923610

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57377&d=1470923607

Gulp!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57381&d=1470923613

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57383&d=1470923615

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57382&d=1470923614

this is the point where your blood pressure starts to fall.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57384&d=1470923617

and as expected, nothing goes without a "hitch". I have a fitment issue with the power steering pump which is being addressed in this thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21774-Power-Steering-pump-fitment-issue&p=246647#post246647

Yesterday, I got the transmission A frame bolted in and the motor and trans torqued to their perches. It's blazing hot on the east coast for the next couple of days which gives me time to research on what to do about my fitment issue. Other than that, she's in......

[MPTech]

Congrats, you're just beginning to hit the "Fun Milestones"!
Dropping the engine in the first time: Cool
Starting the engine the first time: Even Cooler
First Go-Kart: Ubber Cool
Painted, Licensed, and first legal Street Drive: well, I guess you'll have to wait to see! :cool:

btw, has anyone taught you the proper way to enter and exit a Cobra? (seriously!)
step into the car first (don't sit, then try to pull your legs in) some step on the seat, then the upper floor, grab the top/back of the seat, and slide your butt down and legs forward.

when exiting, grab the back of the seat and use your legs to kinda standup in the car, THEN STEP OVER the sidepipes and exit

practice and demonstrate to your passengers, this is easier (especially for adults) and will go a long way to preventing leg burns
My passengers and I have never been burned following this procedure (my nephew was burned because he did not listen to me)

GOOD LUCK, build looks GREAT!

[RickP]

Congrats, you're just beginning to hit the "Fun Milestones"!
Dropping the engine in the first time: Cool
Starting the engine the first time: Even Cooler
First Go-Kart: Ubber Cool
Painted, Licensed, and first legal Street Drive: well, I guess you'll have to wait to see! :cool:

btw, has anyone taught you the proper way to enter and exit a Cobra? (seriously!)
step into the car first (don't sit, then try to pull your legs in) some step on the seat, then the upper floor, grab the top/back of the seat, and slide your butt down and legs forward.

when exiting, grab the back of the seat and use your legs to kinda standup in the car, THEN STEP OVER the sidepipes and exit

practice and demonstrate to your passengers, this is easier (especially for adults) and will go a long way to preventing leg burns
My passengers and I have never been burned following this procedure (my nephew was burned because he did not listen to me)

GOOD LUCK, build looks GREAT!

each step (no pun) is a milestone to me. Getting closer with each box emptying is very satisfying. And I was wondering how you folks get in and out of the car "gracefully". I'm glad you shared your experience because I didn't want to ask. Kinda like my GF getting on and off my Harley. Seems to be different every time. Somehow she gets it done but it's awkward to watch.

[RickP]

Not much going on in Rick's garage other than grunt work. As an afterthought, I decided to incorporate a cutoff switch after mounting the battery. Just makes life much easier. I needed a starter and while I was at it, ordered the cutoff switch, and remote solenoid. All from Breeze. I looked into bypassing the remote solenoid all together (sure would of made wiring a lot easier) but in the end, it does offer some pro's to have the solenoid remote. I find electrical wiring exciting but in reality, it's grunt work and especially in a garage that's reaching 105 degrees for the last 12 days in a row. I will for sure remember this part of the build as I put "literally" my blood, sweat, and tears into it.

The dash wiring wire up is 99.9% complete all except for testing it out. It's looks worse than it actually is. The white double wire in the forefront wires to the tach but I'm holding off connecting it as I question what terminal on the back of the tach it goes too.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57705&d=1471796352

I'm running a front mount battery location so it seems the obvious choice was to mount the cutoff switch under the 2" square tube on the transmission upper panel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57702&d=1471796349

I made sure I spent some time getting a really solid chassis ground. Steel Rivsert backed by a 3/8 steel bolt, minus the powder coat. Here I ran the battery ground, alternator, and starter motor grounds.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57704&d=1471796351

I pretty much followed what many have done as far as the solenoid to starter wiring. Pretty straight forward stuff.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57703&d=1471796350

I figured since I was getting through the "grunt stuff", I might as well tackle the driveshaft. I took the driveshaft from my donor to the same folks who rebuilt my 8.8. They told me it would be easier for them to just build me something rather than cut mine down so I opted to go that route. Set me back 360 bucks but I could of kept it under 300 if I didn't lose my yoke and flange in the myriad of boxes/parts.

all I had to do was get some paint on it and install.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57697&d=1471796344
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57700&d=1471796347

Of course, when someone builds you something custom, you fret installing it. She fit like a glove and took no time to install.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57701&d=1471796348

I will say this to anyone who is researching an FFR build or new to an MK4 like myself or just following along. If there is one upgrade I am so glad I got it would be the Ron Francis wiring harness. It is worth every cent spent on it. I am by far an electrical genius but the harness is so well thought out, especially when you get to wiring the engine bay. I complicated the matter with a Russ Thompson turn signal system but even with that, it beats trying to wire up a dirty old OEM harness. For me, the wiring of the car has been the most difficult part of the project.

[RickP]

I haven't updated this thread in some time. I saw where another forum member was asking about the Breeze Hidden Hinge install so I figured I'd post some pics.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63016&d=1484936494

the hinge assembly will get powder coat then reinstalled.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63015&d=1484936494

with cowl mocked up. I will fasten using rivnuts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63014&d=1484936494

On another note, I went back and focused on the behind the dash wiring by wiring everything through distribution blocks.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63018&d=1484936517

And while at it, I decided to close up the bottom of the dash flush with matching dash material, two under dash lights, and a power port (lousy pic, can't see it).
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63017&d=1484936506

A few more items to address and I will start focusing on fitting the body.

[RickP]

I was having a little fun this morning in the garage and in staying with theme of making the car as serviceable as possible, I decided to close up the trunk fuel pump/sender access holes.

first I set out to get some general orientation of what is "straight" by masking off and doing some marking and measuring.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63104&d=1485109896
next I piloted some 1/8 holes for clecos
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63105&d=1485109897
I wanted to make the panels removable in the event I need to get to the pump or sending unit so I drilled 1/4 holes to accept 8-32nd rants.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63106&d=1485109898

I like using the poly-serts over the sleeve type rivnuts but knowing my grip would be minimal with the sheet metal, I backed the nuts with a little JB-Weld.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63107&d=1485109898
after that, a test fit and repeat for the other side.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63108&d=1485109899
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63109&d=1485109900

[blitzkreig baja]

Thanks for the hinge pics, Rick. I will be using one on my roadster Too.

[RickP]

For all those FiTech users out there I figured I would share a couple of pics of something I did. One of the reasons I bought the FiTech is for the real-time engine function readout it offers. Not that it's needed other than for initial setup, but it sure would be nice to know exactly what all engine functions are doing while the wheels are turning. Gauges are great, but not exactly accurate. I've already found out my water temp gauge is about 10 degrees off.

For a long time, I have been thinking how nice would it be to have the FiTech controller mounted in the cockpit area. Removable, adjustable, and "at hand" when needed (and not in the way).

I ended up running the controller wire through the firewall from the motor into and behind the dash. I purchased a Ram Mount setup (ball base mount, 6" arm, and cradle). I've used these mounts before with my motorcycles and they work very nicely. With this setup, I can move the controller up under the dash and out of way, remove it altogether, or adjust the cradle as needed.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63908&d=1486923779

lousy pic of the mount but that's it bolted to the underside of the dash panel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63909&d=1486923780

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63910&d=1486923782

Total cost, 60 bucks for the Ram Mount setup and 1.50 for mounting hardware.

[RickP]

I haven't posted to my build thread in quite some, doesn't mean I haven't been working hard. I wanted to share the installation of the side louvers. Just so everyone knows, this is not my idea, rather EdwardB's found in a couple of posts in his Anniversary build thread. Whenever I get stuck on something or wonder what is the best approach, I always fall back on Paul's Anniversary build thread. I consider myself a struggling perfectionist but I'm sure like many on this forum, we all aspire to reach Paul's abilities. Not that there aren't any just as experienced builders on this forum, but Paul goes above and beyond documenting every detail from soup to nuts. You can pretty much chuck the manual and just build a car from his thread alone. I've borrowed ideas from many on this forum but for this particular task, Paul needs to be mentioned.

The kit supplied louvers are a stamped piece of sheet in which one bends the fins to some orientation, and then silicone to the body. I've spent countless dollars, time, and effort on this build and this part will not do. Like many, I purchased the pre-assembled side Louvers from Finish Line. I don't have anything to compare it too but I suspect they are the same as found as an upgrade on the FFR website (out of stock currently). These are assembled, and brackets for mounting are supplied.

I spent many hours researching on the best approach for mounting these louvers. Many ways to do it. From Velcro to homemade boned brackets.

Before I begin, I have to say this... When Paul depicts a certain part, if it's not kit supplied, he notes it and more importantly for ALL of us, he provides the part number and where he got it. Huge time saver for us newbies. Now the part I always wonder about. "How does he know?" Some way some how, he had to figure it out. He either spends countless hours looking in the McMaster Carr catalogue OR it's trial and error OR somewhere along the way, someone has shared the love. I suspect a combination of all three. Nonetheless, lets get too it!

Total cost of project (I'm guessing) 150 bucks. Paul tends to lean towards 10/32 hardware, I prefer 8/32. You will need:

1. Side Louvers (********** or FFR) pre-assembled.
2. 3M High Strength Resin Filler
3. some small spreaders
4. two paint sticks
5. rubber bands
6. two cloths pins
7. 2 packs Bonding Fasteners (McMaster Carr part#97590A569) you need 8 but they come in packs of 5. These are 10/32 thread x 1-1/4" stud. (again, how did Paul find these?)
8. (16) - #12 stainless steels flat washers
9. (4) - 10/32 stainless steel nylon lock nuts
10. (8) - 10/32 stainless steel nuts
11. (8) - 8/32 stainless steel locknuts
12. (8) - 8/32 stainless steel button head screws.

A preview of the bonding fasteners. These will require a slight modification later. For now, this is what I'm talking about.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68028&d=1495299979
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68029&d=1495299980

First up is to determine what side is what. Fit each louvers and mark it orientation with a piece of tape on the outside of the louvers.

The second order of business is to mount the brackets to the louvers.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68031&d=1495299982

The devil is in the detail here. The object is to not see any bolts holding the brackets to the louvers unless one looks very hard. You can't see it in the pic above (it's meant to show you the orientation of the brackets). Rather, it's important to align the bracket with the correct spacing.

If you notice the top to bottom spacing of the bracket, the drilling can be done by eye by sighting down a fin and making a mark on the bracket. You need the space between the face of the louver and the bent side of the bracket for a mounting nut. You can see the spacing in the next couple of pics.

tab and drill (be careful, the brackets are thin material). I used my dads 70 year old Stanley hand drill to pilot a hole and enlarged to 8/32 from there.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68026&d=1495299978

Mark the louver using the now created holes on the side bracket and drill. Again, be careful as to not scratch the fins when the bit goes through. Now mount the bracket using the 8/32 button heads/nylon lock nuts (Paul uses 3 bolts, I used 2). Choice is up to interpretation.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68027&d=1495299978

Here's shot of noting how the button head bolts are tucked up behind the fins.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68040&d=1495303325

Now is the time to modify the bonding fasteners as mentioned before. I put it in a vice carefully and cut using an cut off tool. A little TLC with a hand file and they are ready for mounting.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68050&d=1495303335

[RickP]

In order to mount the body mounts to the louvers, I used the same method as before. Precision is not really needed at this point but it is important to not allow the body mount base to overlap the louvers (this would be the edge of the body cut-out).

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68052&d=1495303337

Now a little pre-assembly using washers/nuts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68054&d=1495303339



Don't screw the nut down all the way to the body mount base.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68056&d=1495303340

Attach to the louvers with another washer and nylon lock nut.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68057&d=1495303341

go ahead and attach them all.

[RickP]

Now the fun part.

You need to find a way to temporarily hold the louvers in place while you can position them, yet be able to keep them in place long enough to allow the HSRF to cure. I used Paul's method using paint sticks, rubber bands, and cloths pins.


anything to hold the rubber bands in place while the paint sticks run through them.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68060&d=1495303344

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68062&d=1495303346

Once you get the exact position you desire, tape the back. Make sure the mount is flat against the body and the cut is facing up towards the body cut out. Also make sure the nut facing closest to the body is not bottomed out.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68064&d=1495303349

Now, I've never had the pleasure of working with HSRF but the goal here is to just get the body mounts to stick, and not get any on the body stud post threads or worse, sock the nut in place. A little of this stuff goes a long way. Another word of caution, if you start hitting the setup threshold of the filler, just stop. It makes things worse of you glopping filler on. Less is more here. I can't give any advise on the filler to resin ratio but you want it be a light green when mixed. Still, you will need to work fast and carefully. Again, the goal is to get the post to stick at this point. Carefully apply the filler using a small scraper and do not get any on the nut or threaded post.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68065&d=1495303350

Now give this time to setup. I let it cure over night.

a little over zealous on the filler here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68044&d=1495303329


Once the filler has cured, I removed the louver (leave the bottom nut in place if you plan to shorten the studs). I sanded using 60 grit and re-applied more filler to really set the studs. A little more sanding and I'm ready for final assembly.

Before doing so, I shorted the studs. If you choose to do this, now is not the time for a power tool. A good old hack saw is the way to go as the posts are fine thread. Clean the ends of threaded posts with a hand file and back the nut back off the post to re-align any botched threads.

Now reinstall the louvers

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68068&d=1495303353

viola!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68069&d=1495303355

[RickP]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68070&d=1495303356

[edwardb]

Nice write-up! Great detailed explanations and pictures. Glad my thread was able to help. I found out in my very first build thread that forum members really appreciated detail and especially part numbers. So I've made a habit of cutting and pasting them into my build threads. Easy to do from the detailed spreadsheet files I keep of my builds. The one suggestion I would make when bonding to the body with HSRF is to rough up the area on the body. I use 40 grit paper and then clean with solvent like lacquer thinner or acetone. Then stick the part into the roughened glass. Your louvers should be fine since they're not real heavy or high stress. But something to keep in mind especially for more heavy duty applications.

As far as finding stuff on McMaster, I really don't spend a lot of time at it. I find their website to be very well organized. Using the various filters once you get into the right general area plus the product details (e.g. dimensioned drawings) I can usually find what I need very quickly. If they don't have it (or my local Ace) I figure I don't need it. Summit Racing is another website I find to be similarly easy to find what I'm looking for. As a former IT guy I find clicking around on sites like these to be pretty easy pickings. They make it way to easy to spend my money. :p

[RickP]

The man himself chimes in. Thank you and also thanks for the extra tip on roughing up the surface. Instructions on the HSRF do say to do this but the louvers are much lighter than I thought they would be. Like the kliener tail light mod, this should be known as the edwardb louvers mod.

P.S - I know what you did with the two extra stud mounts :cool: I plan on mounting the elephant ears in the same fashion. For that, I will be sure to rough up the area to be bonded.

[carlewms]

Rick,

I too have followed EdwardB's methods and I am getting ready to install the side louvers shortly. One quick question ... It appears that the aligned the "side" (the one extending to the inside of the compartment) of the L shaped bracket so it was parallel and even with the inside face of the louvers ... Am I seeing that correctly?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68044&d=1495303329

Great tutorial ... thanks for posting.

Carl

[RickP]

Rick,

I too have followed EdwardB's methods and I am getting ready to install the side louvers shortly. One quick question ... It appears that the aligned the "side" (the one extending to the inside of the compartment) of the L shaped bracket so it was parallel and even with the inside face of the louvers ... Am I seeing that correctly?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68044&d=1495303329

Great tutorial ... thanks for posting.

Carl

Parallel, yes. As far as even, doesn't matter. In this pic, (the bottom of the pic is the outside facing of the louver). my bracket is probably a 32nd to 16th an inch from the edge. It can be eye balled. You don't want to have the bracket any closer towards the outside of the louver (down in the pic) as the nut/washer combo closet to the body needs room to allow the louver to sit as flush to the body as possible.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68027&d=1495299978

A note regarding "sitting flush to the body"

Paul notes in his thread that the louvers themselves are not machined "flat". His level of perfection led him to shave off a little material of the rearward facing of the louver itself. I didn't go to that extent. The positioning of the bracket as I have it, or flush with the edge as you note, allows for a slight adjustability with the underside nut. When installed, the gap on my drivers side louver between the body and the louver (when sighting from the front the of the car) is about 16th to an 1/8. You cannot tell from the outside of the car.

[RickP]

I haven't been updating this thread so I figured I would show some progress on my part. I managed to get the initial fitment of the side pipes complete this weekend and I thought I should roll er out into the driveway and snap a few pics. Still a ton of work to do but I am happy of the progress made thus far.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70043&d=1499622580

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70044&d=1499622589

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70045&d=1499622598

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70046&d=1499622608

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70047&d=1499622619

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70050&d=1499622658

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70051&d=1499622672

[RickP]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70053&d=1499622689

I have a lot of tweaking left to do but I am nearing a point where I feel confident I can start the PA registration process.

[GoDadGo]

Okay Rick,

You Sealed The Deal On My Car Being Red With A Smooth Hood!
Even In Ye Olde Red Gelcoat She's Quite The Beauty!

Stve

[RickP]

Okay Rick,

You Sealed The Deal On My Car Being Red With A Smooth Hood!
Even In Ye Olde Red Gelcoat She's Quite The Beauty!

Stve

Thanks Steve,

I'm going to run her in gel coat (once I get past registration) for a bit and then somehow convince Jeff Kleiner to finish her off in dark gray/black stripes.

[awd-turbo]

What shifter, and shift knob did you get? I like the look of it.

[RickP]

What shifter, and shift knob did you get? I like the look of it.

The shift handle is from ********** Accessories 427 T handle T-5, It is a 1/2 x 20 . The ball came from TwistedShifterz part F1002EN-5R-DR-wht. This ball is not to be confused with the one Breeze sells. It's bigger and has the correct threading for that particular shifter. Marks is slightly smaller and a different thread insert, but same logo/shift pattern.

Some don't care for the shifter but I really like how it "kicks" in toward the driver and lands your hand in a natural position when shifting.