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oldguy668
02-20-2016, 03:23 PM
Scenario

1967 289 block with Ford E-cam and stock distributor with Pertronix module, Weiand manifold with Holley vacuum 4V carb

#1 piston at TDC, both pushrods can be turned by hand. The book says that's the compression stroke.

Nice fat spark from the coil wire, fuel to carb and spray nozzles

Distributor set so rotor points to #1 terminal. BTW, cam requires HO firing order (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8)

#1 plug is front passenger side. Wires connected in counter clockwise direction

Start attempts result in a few pops back through carb but not much else. Tell me what I'm failing to notice.

PaulW
02-20-2016, 04:42 PM
I am certainly no expert but IMHO if the rotor is pointed at the terminal when the piston is at TDC that would indicate that you have no advance at all. My 302 was set at about 32 degrees of advance. Having said this I don't know whether it would cause what you are experiencing.

Jeff Kleiner
02-20-2016, 04:52 PM
The fact that the pushrods will turn does not indicate TDC on compression. Pull #1 plug and turn it over by hand while feeling for compression as it approaches your timing mark. I'd bet you're 180 out.

Jeff

Gumball
02-20-2016, 04:54 PM
I agree with Jeff - check for 180 out of sync. But, if that isn't it, maybe too little static advance? Play with distributor a bit and try it again. You should have about 10 - 14 degrees static to start.

oldguy668
02-21-2016, 07:18 AM
So if I set the distributor to point to #1 when the timing pointer is at 20 I should get 20 degrees advance initially?

michael everson
02-21-2016, 08:08 AM
Joe. If you were only of 10-20, it would start. I bet your off 180 too.
Mike

CraigS
02-21-2016, 08:09 AM
I don't worry about trying to set the advance before I start. Just make sure the rotor tip is at the #1 lug in the cap. Note the tip is usually 2-3 times wider than the lug so there is plenty of wiggle room. I second the pull the plug and stick a finger on the plug hole. Then turn the engine w/ a ratchet or breaker bar. The pressure buildup is very obvious.

oldguy668
02-21-2016, 08:43 AM
I'm going to try again later. Daytona will provide appropriate background music in the shop.

chopthebass
02-21-2016, 02:26 PM
Post a video when it does start though.

oldguy668
02-21-2016, 03:22 PM
I went through the entire checklist, including pushing the button on the inertia switch. Runs like a top!

David Hodgkins
02-22-2016, 09:50 AM
I went through the entire checklist, including pushing the button on the inertia switch. Runs like a top!

Does this mean you got it started? I was gonna ask you about your plug connections. You said you have #1 cylinder at the front of your engine on the passenger side and then wired them counter clockwise? On mine the front passenger is #1 and is wired to the back 1-4 but then #5 is the front on the driver's side and then wired 5-8 from front to back on that bank...

:)

oldguy668
02-22-2016, 04:41 PM
Got it started Dave. Runs pretty crappy but the timing light is next on the agenda.

Mustang Man
02-22-2016, 08:01 PM
David, Joe was referring to the distributor cap when he was referring to wiring it clockwise from #1... :rolleyes:

Mark

oldguy668
02-22-2016, 10:03 PM
You guys all missed the part when I said I went through the entire procedure, as suggested, only to find I had left the inertia switch disabled. You really can't make this stuff up.

Gumball
02-22-2016, 11:03 PM
You guys all missed the part when I said I went through the entire procedure, as suggested, only to find I had left the inertia switch disabled. You really can't make this stuff up.

At least you know the inertia switch works!

NukeMMC
02-23-2016, 05:50 AM
Glad you got it going. You can get the timing reasonably close by turning it to smoothest run by ear. If that is the same Holley 670 I think I sold you, I had the idle mixture set for my 351, so it will be close enough for now. A vacuum gauge should be on your list after the timing light to get a good tune started.

oldguy668
02-23-2016, 12:53 PM
Yessir, Bruce. It went from your box to the manifold. My last question is this: I am running out of adjustment turning the distributor to get more advance, so I have to move by one tooth. Which way do I go, clockwise or counterclockwise? I think I could also just move the wires one osition but same question, which way?

Mesa Mike
02-24-2016, 05:27 PM
Are you 100%s sure of the firing order?

NukeMMC
02-24-2016, 06:51 PM
Yessir, Bruce. It went from your box to the manifold. My last question is this: I am running out of adjustment turning the distributor to get more advance, so I have to move by one tooth. Which way do I go, clockwise or counterclockwise? I think I could also just move the wires one osition but same question, which way?
If it is running and reasonably smooth, leave it until you get the timing light. If you are trying to move the dizzy more counterclockwise, lift it carefully until the gear teeth disengage and turn the rotor clockwise another tooth.

NukeMMC
02-24-2016, 06:56 PM
Are you 100%s sure of the firing order?

With the E303 cam, yes, 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 is the correct firing order. The cam determines firing order.

51018

oldguy668
02-25-2016, 08:25 AM
So I need the dist to turn more clockwise so I move one tooth counterclockwise? Same thing to move all the wires one post over? Move them all one post to the left?

Joee
02-25-2016, 08:56 AM
So I need the dist to turn more clockwise so I move one tooth counterclockwise? Same thing to move all the wires one post over? Move them all one post to the left?

Just relocate dist and line up plug one again it should go pretty easy b/c it is already lined up.

oldguy668
02-25-2016, 06:18 PM
Let me re-ask the question in simpler terms. If I want to move the distributor because I can't turn it any further clockwise, do I move it one tooth clockwise or one tooth counterclockwise? Same question with moving the wires.

NukeMMC
02-25-2016, 08:39 PM
That is correct for the rotor, turn it a tooth counterclockwise. Put the wires clockwise.

oldguy668
02-25-2016, 10:27 PM
Thank you very much....