C. Fl. Coupe build

[Loring]

Alright ladies and gents, I've had a few boxes show up here and there, but the first major step has happened. My donor showed up, which means BUILD THREAD TIME!!

The main configuration will be some large wheels, something with some dish with a good engine build. 5-600ish whp. I'd eventually like to be able to swap suspension and wheels for various trims including drag or road racing. I'll use this post to keep a basic status and parts/cost total and if I'm not being too ambitious, a table of contents for posts in this thread I feel are noteworthy.

...More to come.

Stuff bought:

818C with black PC frame, dash, carpet, wipers and CF street spoiler
2006 Subaru WRX TR


Engine:
RJ Manufacturing closed deck block
supporting machine work for block and heads for 700WHP
CP Forged pistons 9:1 99.75mm
Manley Turbo Tuff rods
ACL race bearings
ARP head studs
Kelford 272 cams
Supertech valves
TGV deletes
Killer B Windage tray and oil pickup
STi Oil pan

Air/Fuel System:
2 - CNT 255lph e85 fuel pump
Ascension Engineering surge tank
FIC 2150cc injectors
AWIC

Turbo:
BoostLab custom billet 6262
-Dual ball bearing CHRA
-11 blade compressor wheel



Misc:
Quaife QDH3Y LSD
Competition Stage 2 Clutch
Competition 13lb Flywheel

Braum Elite-X seats

Suspension:
Adjustable rear trailing arms

[Loring]

Donor status:

It's a 2006 WRX. It was hit slightly in the front, enough to touch the motor. Not a big setback, as I'm planning on an engine build anyway. Can has a lot of cool parts on it, including a very large TMIC, and some COBB parts including a STS, turbo heat shield, and some perrin goodies like the radiator mount, belt cover, and UDP. I'm hoping the part out will cover most of the car cost ($2500). From the doors back, the body is damn good. It's got some really nice suspension parts, but the struts themselves are destroyed. I'll post more as I tear into it this weekend. Pics to come when I figure out the pic thingy.

[Mechie3]

I think I parted out about $3500+ from my 06 car.

[JeromeS13]

Donor status:

It's a 2006 WRX. It was hit slightly in the front, enough to touch the motor. Not a big setback, as I'm planning on an engine build anyway. Can has a lot of cool parts on it, including a very large TMIC, and some COBB parts including a STS, turbo heat shield, and some perrin goodies like the radiator mount, belt cover, and UDP. I'm hoping the part out will cover most of the car cost ($2500). Form the doors back, the body is damn good. It's got some really nice suspension parts, but the struts themselves are destroyed. I'll post more as I tear into it this weekend. Pics to come when I figure out the pic thingy.

A COBB short throw shifter will be useless on an 818, as you don't use the donor's shifting mechanism.

[Loring]

A COBB short throw shifter will be useless on an 818, as you don't use the donor's shifting mechanism.

Same goes for the TMIC and Invidia catback. All good for reselling and recouping the cost of the donor though, right? ;)

[Loring]

51447

Testing?

Looks like the pictures were too big. Anyway, I'm sure most of you have seen this before. I just finished with it, and took the car to the scrapyard. One place wouldn't even take it with the title, the next place said "That's not a car, that's tin." He offered to de-title it, but I declined, of course. 900lbs, $32. Hah.

[carrera1984]

I'm running into this issue as well. Illinois needs to have the title to register it as a kit car but you need the title to get rid of the shell. Kind of a catch 22!

[Loring]

Turns out only one of the struts was destroyed and the strut cartridge is replaceable, which means the coilover and camber plate is still good. Those were $1400 when they were new. After my buddy helped me get rid of the shell, he decided that he wanted to pressure wash my garage to get ready for the kit arrival. Guy just got laid off from the railroad, so he was bored and I was buying lunch anyway, haha.

51448

[Loring]

I'm running into this issue as well. Illinois needs to have the title to register it as a kit car but you need the title to get rid of the shell. Kind of a catch 22!

I've read a few guys just cutting the shell up and scrapping it over time. The first scrapyard informed me that it was illegal, to which I held back a laugh.

From other Floridians registering the 818 and kit cars in general, they don't actually require the title, just proof of ownership. They issue a new title with a new VIN anyway.

I recall one 818 owner cutting his shell into pieces and leaving it out for the scrappers over a month or two period. :D

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm running into this issue as well. Illinois needs to have the title to register it as a kit car but you need the title to get rid of the shell. Kind of a catch 22!

I ran into the same problem when I tried to scrap my last donor.
I called the Ohio state trooper office where the inspections are done. The Trooper that inspected my previous car told me to keep a good copy of the title before turning the real title over to the crusher.
Bob

[Loring]

Now that the shop area is mostly clean, let's see what's in this blue box...

514535145451455

[Loring]

Just got a call from Stewart's driver. The car will be here tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm taking note of longislandwrx's signature:

51705

[Hindsight]

Haha, I love it.... plenty of hydration for the day's build activities and a little celebration beer during the evenings when finished.

Lakeland eh? I used to go down there all the time to Wallaby Ranch (technically Davenport).

[Harley818]

Good luck.... now the fun starts.
Just keep at it and do a little as often as you can... it all adds up.
Most of us end up walking around looking at the car, trying to decide what to do next....do a little bit then repeat the next day.....
It went fast for me till I got to the body.... now there are alot of details still to contend with.'

[lance corsi]

Harley, I've got nearly 400 hours just in my body fitment. If you don't do any crazy mods, may take you only 300 hrs. It is probably the most confusing and crucial part to get right. The body is what most ppl see, so I feel it has to be right in order to represent FFR in the best possible light.

[adubbelde]

Just got a call from Stewart's driver. The car will be here tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm taking note of longislandwrx's signature:

51705

I like that fridge. Wher'd you get it and what's the brand/make?

[Loring]

Kenmore Coldspot. We got it from Sears. We picked it as a second fridge because of its ice producing capabilities, which is something that nobody considers when buying a fridge, haha.

[Loring]

So this happened today. Started raining shortly before he showed up, got even heavier as we started unloading the car, and then cleared up after he left. Just like Florida.

51749

No matter how many times you read that there are a lot of boxes, it still seems like a lot of boxes.

51750

I've got quite a bit of aluminum that isn't on the checklist. I'm guessing it's coupe specific. Some of it has numbers in sharpie, a few don't.

[Mitch Wright]

Congratulations, enjoy your build.

[Loring]

Thank you, sir.

Pulling a few parts out as I go, noticing some interesting things, things I would have done differently, etc. as I'm sure you all have as well.

Curious if these chopsticks will handle my power levels.

51883

[longislandwrx]

Same goes for the TMIC and Invidia catback. All good for reselling and recouping the cost of the donor though, right? ;)

should be able to use the TMIC, you just need brackets to lower enough to clear the engine cover.


Just got a call from Stewart's driver. The car will be here tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm taking note of longislandwrx's signature:

51705

there's a solid start.


Kenmore Coldspot. We got it from Sears. We picked it as a second fridge because of its ice producing capabilities, which is something that nobody considers when buying a fridge, haha.

tell me about it, we ended up with a Frigidaire with an all internal icemaker (not in the door) because it had tremendous capacity, and speed!



Curious if these chopsticks will handle my power levels.


probably not. buy crappy tires.

[Loring]

should be able to use the TMIC, you just need brackets to lower enough to clear the engine cover.

Possibly. The TMIC is quite a bit bigger than the STi version, and with the coupe, I don't want to deal with the lack of airflow that i'll likely end up with. I think AWIC is the way to go, but I was looking at the ducting that they added into the top for rear airflow, and they put a good bit of thought into it.

However, on the list of things that they didn't put thought into:

51978

Am I a dummy or is that wrong?


probably not. buy crappy tires.

Haha. I can get a vanity place that says 'SPNMSTR' or 'SMKSHOW'.

[longislandwrx]

you have to take one apart and reassemble. the instructions are in the book somewhere. one/two of the threaded rods need to be shortened for final alignment.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51734&d=1458414245


grease fittings down.

[Loring]

Yep, I ended up flipping one over, no big deal there. I guess it's easier from a production standpoint to assemble them all the same. Guess I'll have to reconfigure the crossbars the other way. Thanks for pointing that out. :)

As far as the threaded rod shortening, do I remember someone saying that they fixed that issue and that it was only for earlier kits?

[longislandwrx]

I don't know how they'd fix it unless that a-arm is a new part number. my packaging is long gone so I cant tell you.

[Loring]

Also, FWIW, there are several photos in the manual showing the zerk fittings up. I'm not suggesting that the manual is 100% correct, but at least I see where my misunderstanding was.

[Aero STI]

Thank you, sir.

Pulling a few parts out as I go, noticing some interesting things, things I would have done differently, etc. as I'm sure you all have as well.

Curious if these chopsticks will handle my power levels.

51883

I don't see your power goals. Those chopsticks held up to 530 WHP and 580 WTQ on my car. The 5 speed on the other hand...

I believe all broken axles so far were a result of R compounds and launching.

[longislandwrx]

with a good engine build. 5-600ish whp.

plus he mentioned drag racing.

[Loring]

I did. :) There will be many great launches and potentially some front wheels off the ground.

When considering the engine build, it appears that there isn't a great cost disparity for 500 and 600 WHP, and 6 to 700 WHP is about $1000.

I'm going to build with the provided axles and do some 'durability testing'. There's a good axle shop nearby, I can have them make something more beefy should the need arise.

[longislandwrx]

Not sure how you came up with that number but from owning other cars, I don't know if that's a realistic estimate.

The difference in the short block may be $1000, but just going to a twin disc clutch over a single will set you back another $1000, id2000s are not cheap, etc etc
Unless you are overbuilding your 500hp build and underbuilding your 700hp build.

Post your build spreadsheet and lets see what you had in mind for both. I don't doubt it can be done, but it's going to cost you.

[Aero STI]

Not sure how you came up with that number but from owning other cars, I don't know if that's a realistic estimate.

The difference in the short block may be $1000, but just going to a twin disc clutch over a single will set you back another $1000, id2000s are not cheap, etc etc
Unless you are overbuilding your 500hp build and underbuilding your 700hp build.

Post your build spreadsheet and lets see what you had in mind for both. I don't doubt it can be done, but it's going to cost you.

Thanks for pointing out his power goals.

I like it that others are aiming for ridiculous horsepower. I would also be interested to see the build list.

[Loring]

Not sure how you came up with that number but from owning other cars, I don't know if that's a realistic estimate.

The difference in the short block may be $1000, but just going to a twin disc clutch over a single will set you back another $1000, id2000s are not cheap, etc etc
Unless you are overbuilding your 500hp build and underbuilding your 700hp build.

Post your build spreadsheet and lets see what you had in mind for both. I don't doubt it can be done, but it's going to cost you.

Sorry, let me clarify. The $$$ to get to 600WHP plus $1000 will get me 700WHP. I'll likely end up with $7-8k just in the engine. With injectors, clutch, turbo, and all the other ancillary stuff, I'd be lucky to come in under 10k just for the powerplant.

Quaife, drag radials, tune, all that driveline stuff adds up fast.

There's a really good Subaru shop in Orlando, so they seem to be interested in tuning and providing all the internals.

[Hindsight]

I'm sure you already know this but to hit those big numbers, you are going to need a very large turbo that won't spool up until very high RPMs. A 700WHP turbo is going to be one that will probably spool between 5 and 6k RPMs.

[Loring]

Yep, I'm hoping the lack of weight will allow for the car to get into boost quickly. If not, there's always nitrous.

[metalmaker12]

Yep, I'm hoping the lack of weight will allow for the car to get into boost quickly. If not, there's always nitrous.


Lmao, good luck being able to drive a 700whp 818. I can't even fully handle it with 300whp, I would say 400whp would be the max in this car unless your trying to kill yourself. My ride is a solid low 11 sec car/ great track machine and that's with the tires spinning and some oh **** moments. If your trying to build an 818 drag car than that's different but high hp
In one of these is completely useless power, plus that power in an EJ is a time bomb.

Just giving you some wisdom, I admire your ideas, It's that I have been part of building subies for 15 years, and I know the 818 very well building my own and helping with about 5 others.

If you need advice I have many answers and a wealth of subie pros who are my friends to help out.

Good luck in your quest to reach that number. It's going to be way more than 10k though

[Hindsight]

My plan is to get the car "done" and driving, stock in terms of power modifications but with the addition of some parts that will make future upgrades easier (like upgrading the whole fuel system, installing a great AWIC setup, limited slip diff, etc). With the body on, interior mostly done, and after having it licensed, I will drive it for a few months with the Cobb stage 2 tune and see what I think. If I'm thirsting for more power, I'll upgrade. But I can say with just the 2nd and 3rd gear pulls I did the other day before starting on the body, it's scary fast with just a stage 2 tune in it. The car goes faster than you can think. Also, being very low to the ground and small makes you feel..... vulnerable, which amplifies the sense of speed.

[Loring]

The car will have long legs, to be sure. The folks at Rev Works seem to think 6-700 to the ground should last upwards of 50K miles. I'm not sure what makes that a time bomb, as I'm fairly new to the subie world, but I'm quite curious.

700 to the ground is nothing new for me. The 'new' part will be learning how a car this light handles the power, and how to adapt and make the necessary changes to make it behave well. As far as cruising around on the street, on street tires, the boost setting will be fairly modest.

[JeromeS13]

6-700 to the ground should last upwards of 50K miles.

That's funny!

[longislandwrx]

The folks at Rev Works seem to think 6-700 to the ground should last upwards of 50K miles

I'm going to look up these sorcerers and see what they've been up to. I know a handful of owners of cars at this power level built by reputable shops and tuned by reputable tuners, and they seem to spend much of their life up on lifts for some reason or another, and these are $60-80k wrx/sti builds.

I admire your power goals as well, I really can't wait to see some videos of some really high HP 818s tearing it up...

That being said having been on forums for a while now, three things seem to happen with big builds.. The money never materializes and the car never exists. The money is there, the car is built and broken all the time and the owner loses interest in the money pit. The money is there the car is partially built and the owner loses interest. There are a few exceptions to the rule, and they tend to be shop/manufacturer cars with deep pockets.

I will you luck and good fortune.

I am hoping you make it happen.

[Pearldrummer7]

I'm gonna play catch-up on this thread:

Nice donor car.

I think you'll need some beefier axles to say the least. I've heard good things about Frank from the Driveshaft Shop (by both Frank from Montreal on the forum and from my friend Frank who has a Honda powered Fiero. Yes, my name is Frank as well).

This is an exciting project. I really hope it comes to fruition. This will certainly be a big budget car. I would be starting with a stock engine (or whatever was in the donor car) for now while a shop builds my powerplant (and I muster up the money to pay for it). A motorswap is easier once you've proven out the rest of the car (wiring, suspension, etc.).

Either way, I'm subscribed!

[Loring]

Thanks Frank. I got a good deal on it because the engine didn't run. Otherwise, your suggestion was plan A. It's more money than I wanted to lay out originally, but it's still a lot cheaper than the Atom, haha.


That's funny!

Thanks, I'll be sure to pass it along to them.


I'm going to look up these sorcerers and see what they've been up to.

The lead sorcerer's name is Scott. He's a self-described Subaru junkie from way back.


I know a handful of owners of cars at this power level built by reputable shops and tuned by reputable tuners, and they seem to spend much of their life up on lifts for some reason or another, and these are $60-80k wrx/sti builds.

Yeah, I've noticed that too. I've also seemed to notice that a lot of the 'my $$$$ engine blew up' on naisoc and iwsti was either from a bad tune, or an attempt to spin the engine up above 8-9K. This allowed some EJ inherent oiling issue to rear its ugly head and cause friction generated glitter. Of course, there could always be something I'm missing, which is why I asked Metalmaker what would cause a 700 wheel EJ to be a time bomb. Like I said, I'm new to the subie game, and if there's some bit of information that prevented such a configuration from lasting more than 20k miles or so, I'd probably do something a bit more modest. In either case, I'm not going above 8K, one for oiling concerns, two, because I like a nicer, lower MPS in general.

I think (hopefully) what will set me apart is that the money is already there and the overall drivetrain stress will be lower due to the lack of weight here. I plan on things to break. That's fine with me. I'm already expecting axles and a few of the gearsets in the trans to show their hand pretty early.

As far as that shop goes, his engine builder is over 50 years old and has been doing Subaru work for 30+ years. He had similar qualifications for his tuner.


That being said having been on forums for a while now, three things seem to happen with big builds.. The money never materializes and the car never exists. The money is there, the car is built and broken all the time and the owner loses interest in the money pit. The money is there the car is partially built and the owner loses interest. There are a few exceptions to the rule, and they tend to be shop/manufacturer cars with deep pockets.

Of all these scenarios, number two is the most likely. I've had a few money pits (and they weren't bad), but a constant, never-ending money pit that provided no enjoyment because it was always under the knife would probably make me lose interest pretty quickly. Another thing that might be noteworthy: hobbyists give up quicker than gearheads. I didn't wake up one day and decide I wanted a fast car. Though this is the first kit I've built, its not the first car I've set up to make big power and get it to the ground.


I will you luck and good fortune.

I am hoping you make it happen.

Thanks buddy. We should see a few months from now how this all turns out. I plan to learn a lot in the process, both from my experiences and from you guys (and gals). I'm sure at some point I'll design some solutions to contribute and otherwise be a part of the community for some time. You guys are alright. :)

[metalmaker12]

50k at 700 whp, yeah that's not going to be easy if you actually drive it. My best bud had 560 whp fully built and he's a pro tuner and his motor still broke up. Subies make great power but they are in no way reliable at high power. Guys on this forum can't keep 350whp together in an 818 at the track due to many factors of the motors new mid engine location with lack of good cooling sources. You do realize to make 700whp you have make like 840 crank with the 818 15% drivetrain loss. Not many subies make that and if they do there dedicated drag cars and are always apart.

From the countless big hp auntie builds I have seen, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5 strokers, etc etc, they have all eventually went south, but some have lasted longer. My buddy jimmy has a 600whp wagon built to the hills.He has a ej22. I have to say if your going big go 92-94 turbo legacy EJ 2.2 and is the only fully closed deck EJ. His motor has lasted about 60k with some minor issues. But he put at least 15k into the motor and supporting mods and he built it himself. That's about the power level your looking for. If you go with another block, your going to have to deck it to keep it together so to each there own. Good luck, it can be done, but it's not an exact science to keep it running very long.

[tebriel]

I can't imagine what use 700hp would be on a car this light unless you're planning on taking it to the salt flats? So I've been around the wrx world for a number of years and the vast majority of people shooting for high horsepower end up in tears and a lot poorer. Just saying good luck :-D

[Loring]

From the countless big hp auntie builds I have seen, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5 strokers, etc etc, they have all eventually went south, but some have lasted longer.

Which is fine and expected, but what caused the failures? And how many of those were e85/e98?

In my case, the race tune and boost level will be quite different than the 'drive it around casually' tune.

[metalmaker12]

Which is fine and expected, but what caused the failures? And how many of those were e85/e98?

In my case, the race tune and boost level will be quite different than the 'drive it around casually' tune.

They were all pretty much race gas tunes at that hp level, 100 plus octane but some were e85/e98. My tuner/ good friend Matt Miner, who is a Subaru tuning legend tuned most of them. He knows his way around the EJ's and tunes them safely. It's mostly always do to heat at some point. That's a lot of power to ask a small motor to push out, it is not expected to last very long in any 4 cyl really. I am not trying to crash you dreams, so go for it. Just trying to say that all my friends tune these things and have shops that do so, and they build them right, but with that power level don't expect it to last or be very usable in an 1800lb car bro.

I give you props for your vision and way more if you actually do this.

[Loring]

It's mostly always do to heat at some point.

Thanks buddy. I'll be sure to take extra notice of the temps I'm dealing with.


That's a lot of power to ask a small motor to push out, it is not expected to last very long in any 4 cyl really.

I hear ya. We're talking over 200BHP per hole in a 4 inch bore. That'd be like a 2jz or GTR running 1200BHP. It scares some people, I get it. If it lasts 20K miles, It'll probably be 3-5 years worth of good memories. I'll be happy if it lasts that long and I'll consider that a good buy.


but with that power level don't expect it to last or be very usable in an 1800lb car bro.

Eh, I'm worried about the tire width and not the weight. There's little about a lightweight car that makes me think that a solid output will be an issue. On the contrary.


I give you props for your vision and way more if you actually do this.

Thanks, I hope it does. We'll see. It's always possible that I show up one day and make the "I should have listened to you guys" post.

[Loring]

I can't imagine what use 700hp would be on a car this light

Don't worry, I won't let anyone's lack of imagination hold me back. ;)

[Loring]

Anyone have any input on what secures the FFR fuel tank? Considering they've got me running brake lines dangerously close to it, I'm curious what keeps this thing from moving, and I can't see what does it from the manual.

Nothing much more to report, though I'm coming up on engine install time a lot quicker than I thought I'd be.

[longislandwrx]

old tank used two bolts in the back to rivnuts in the frame, 3 bolts in the front that go through the steel under the tank through tabs on the front of the tank.


I imagine the new tank is the same or similar. page 172 on manual revision 1i



you are right, I just looked at manual 1o

instructions mention

¼” x 0.75” hex head bolts and nuts, fuel line components, fuel tank components.
. 1/4” drill bit, drill, ½” wrench, ½” socket, ratchet.

so there has to be a tab somewhere to drill through to secure it to the floor, that combined with the bulb seal should give it a snug fit.

[Hindsight]

New tank has no attachment mechanism other than the firewall to hold it down. Check out my build thread. I welded tabs to the top and bolted to them to the frame. The bottom of the tank will be held in securely by the firewall since the firewall bolts to the floor RIGHT in front of the tank... but I wouldn't let that be the only attachment.

[Loring]

Yep, and that allows for rearward movement, which is where the brake line is. Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. I may just 3d print a set of spacers that go in the back as a prototype. Once the dimensions are good, I'll make a mold for the final product. It should be pretty easy to install from the engine compartment.

As an aside, the servicability of the fuel tank is terrible. It would be really, really easy for FFR to make that panel under the fuel tank held in place by rivnuts so it drops out from the bottom.

If I ever have an issue with mine, I'll likely just cut that panel from the bottom while the car is on a lift and make the necessary modifications.

[Hindsight]

I ran my brake lines down each side of the vehicle. Doesn't go near the fuel tank that way. I am running ABS though, so have three lines going back (left brake, right brake, and clutch). Two run down the driver side, one down the passenger.

[Loring]

Yeah, I wish I'd read ahead a little and realized that the opening just behind where the manual instructs for the brake lines is for the coolant pipes, and has plenty of room.

[UnhipPopano]

Hindsight, What about the radiator vent line? Wouldn't that make 4?

[jcpresto]

I have a coupe as well, what helped me plan everything I wanted to change was to read through the entire manual first and take notes. Helped me pre-plan a lot of things. I am working on wiring now and then first start hopefully very soon.

[Hindsight]

Hindsight, What about the radiator vent line? Wouldn't that make 4?

That line is rubber hose. If you count everything i have 6 including 3 radiator lines. My awic hoses go through center tunnel.

[jcpresto]

I have heater and AC lines running through my center, I ran my intercooler lines on the outside.

[Loring]

I picked up a pair of CNT 255lph e85 pumps. They had good lab test results and were noted for decent build quality. They also came with pigtails, pickup screens, and all the mounting pieces, which I appreciate. Others were all sold separately. I'll start fabbing my collection basket shortly. I think I'll print a prototype in the meantime to mount the pumps in.

[Loring]

Nothing special to report lately, I've been tearing into the engine. Rode in a 700WHP STi last weekend, had 12k on the engine and he doesn't go easy on it. Runs and idles like it did when it was stock.

I've got my half-height 3d print prototype of the collection basket, and all the dimensions look good. I'll get a metal version worked up shortly.

5447254473

[Loring]

The fuel collector is looking ugly as a result of a welding helmet that kept dropping the shade out on me. It'll need some lovin' to make it pretty, but as a prototype, I don't care so much, as long as it's functional. I'll begin its testing soon.

With a proper helmet, I was able to get my TGVs done.

55550

The engine and heads should be back from the machine shop early next week, so I should have some more shiny parts to take pictures of. OP mod list is updated.

[Kurk818]

Nicely done. Most opt to just thread a bolt in to plug the hole. Keep the pics coming.

[Loring]

That was my original idea, and they'll likely go unseen anyway, but someone (an engine machinist) suggested that a steel bolt in an aluminum piece such as that might become a problem.

A lot of pictures will be coming once the heads show up. The block should be here shortly afterward.

[fastfox]

What are you planning for engine management? Cobb AP? Standalone? Open source? Other? I'm leaning toward Megasquirt Gold box from www.efisource.com, the built in traction control system might just help putting down the higher hp levels some of us idiots seem drawn to. :D

[Loring]

Initially I'll just be doing the AP, but more than likely, yes, end up running a standalone with TCS.

[fastfox]

FYI, you can get the universal MS3 gold box setup for $950, you're already spending $600 for the AP...

[Loring]

Thanks for that, I'll check into it.

I went to the GM dealer and got the Sumitomo terminals for a few cents each, and directly wired them into the place of the fuel temp sensor (I believe that's what it is. Perhaps someone can confirm it for me) so that way I can have the pumps running independently at lower loads, and well as decreasing the current load through each wire. I've got a few more things to do before the water test, but it's pretty close. Engine stuff is held up because that's what engine stuff does.

The fit of the module into the tank is tight enough that the level sensor will have to be installed after the module is in the tank. 2 screws, no big deal.

568555685656857

[Loring]

Some pics of the engine back from the machine shop. 9:1s, some big cams, and some rods that should take upwards 60lbs of boost. Not that I'm going there.

57757577585775957760

[Loring]

I found a small imperfection on the crank, so I'm replacing it. At $300 for an STi crank, it's probably not much more than the cost to micropolish it. While I'm waiting, I'm checking the mains. Rods are already measured.

I had the mains pinned, which is apparently the difference between being solid and having a time bomb, as some called it, at 700WHP.

57960579615796257963

[Loring]

5801558016

ARP and nitride treatment.

[Kurk818]

Keep it up with the photos. Eager to see the final result.

[Loring]

582275822858229

[Samiam1017]

very nice whos short block s that? what kinda power you looking for?

[aus818]

Any reason ypu went with the 2000's instead of some 625+ or oversized head studs? I would have thought being a closed deck block a 625+ would be minimum as you are obviously planning to push a fair bit of boost.

[longislandwrx]

I'm kidding but did you use any oil/assembly lube putting this thing together? That's the driest looking short block I think I've ever seen. Way to keep it clean as hell.

Also wondering about the head bolts. and that block insert, man those holes are small.

[Loring]

That's what I thought, but there are a few of them.

And yeah, there's gratuitous use of assembly lube. If you're referring to that shot before the case halves went together, I hit that half of those mains right before I sealed the block, including 'injecting' some into the oil feed holes.

My Subaru sherpa seems to think 2000s are good for this power level. I asked the same thing.

The block is Bobby Ralston's at RJM in Tampa. He's also who did the rest of the machine work and sourced all the parts. High boost tune should run around 700WHP or so. I'll have some lower boost tunes for cruising around and such.

[aus818]

Yeh ok, im still not convinced about the 2000's being suitable for 700whp, but if thats what your engine builder recommended then who am i too argue.

[Loring]

He says he's run 43psi on the 2000s. As far as I'm concerned, if it comes apart due to the head studs, he's gonna be the first one to get a phone call about it, haha.

Injectors showed up. FIC 2150s. Now I can mount the rails and fab the x-over pipe.

[Hindsight]

This thing is going to be a beast. Better get some DSS axles if you haven't already!

[jcpresto]

I don't know what transmission your running. I have 411 rwhp and 418 lbs of torque. I have Moore blast plates I purchased and recommend.

[Loring]

I'm going to need more than DSS axles. I'm trying to find a set of used rear knuckles so I can see how much room I've got to work with to machine them out to accept a larger bearing for a larger outer CV.

But yes, that was my first impression about the stock axles when I took them out of the box. "Oh, these won't do."

Transmission is stock. I'll beef it up when I do the axles. Until I do, no launches, of course. Engine is going in this weekend, it looks like.

[Loring]

Engine and transmission are in.

I've read that a few of you had trouble with the Harbor Freight engine hoist. I had the car on jackstands (which may have made the difference) and had no trouble at all.

60329

[Loring]

BoostLab Billet 6262 dual ball bearing turbo.61914

[Shawn818c]

boostlab billet 6262 dual ball bearing turbo.61914

nice choice !! :D

[fastfox]

He says he's run 43psi on the 2000s. As far as I'm concerned, if it comes apart due to the head studs, he's gonna be the first one to get a phone call about it, haha.

Injectors showed up. FIC 2150s. Now I can mount the rails and fab the x-over pipe.


From what my builder just told me yesterday when I dropped off my core, 2000s are "ok" for one time use at that level. If you want to use studs as many of us like to (multiple uses removing heads and replacing) then they're a no-go. I'm going with CA625+ for mine, only planning for @500whp in an 05 STi...

[Hindsight]

How are you going to keep the car on the ground?

[Loring]

Dunno. I think I can take the exhaust straight out the back window for downward thrust, lol.



From what my builder just told me yesterday when I dropped off my core, 2000s are "ok" for one time use at that level.

35psi is going to be the high boost level on e85. He seems confident.

On to more pics:

Pressure side is done
623676236862369

"Muffler"
62370

[Hindsight]

Going to be a beast. Is it ok to have the turbo at that much of an angle off horizontal?

[Loring]

Yeah, it'll get some final adjustment when the exhaust is done and it'll be 15º or so, which should be fine on a BB with a restrictor.

[mikeybrownie]

I paid my lawn guy $20 and he did away with my shell that I had cut up with the Saw-Saw :)


I've read a few guys just cutting the shell up and scrapping it over time. The first scrapyard informed me that it was illegal, to which I held back a laugh.

From other Floridians registering the 818 and kit cars in general, they don't actually require the title, just proof of ownership. They issue a new title with a new VIN anyway.

I recall one 818 owner cutting his shell into pieces and leaving it out for the scrappers over a month or two period. :D

[Hindsight]

I cut mine up and left it at the curb on garbage guy. Scrap metal guys came and got it.

[Loring]

Not much new to report, little here and a little there. I've been traveling, so it's interrupted our work on the wiring harness. In other news, the 818 has a new garage buddy:

65021

[ravenelitex]

hoping to hear an update soon. :)