MK4 Dash question?

[wallace18]

I am mocking up my dash install on my MK4 build. I am going to make it removable. The manual is very vague IMO on mounting the dash panel. I centered up the steering shaft and then made the corners meet the curved tube like I think I see in the manual. This left some of the aluminum above the tube in certain areas. Does this look correct? Would it be a good Idea to trim the aluminum even with the curved tube? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. I am using Mike Everson's lower dash panel as well. :confused:

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[Jeff Kleiner]

Don't cut the top edge. It's best to wait to make any final position determination until you test fit it with the body so that you can be sure that it isn't contacting the underside of the cowl which can make the doors fit even worse than usual. Plan to cut 1 1/2" to 2" off of the RH side "wing so that it will tuck in behind the door hinge without getting wedged against the firewall extension.

Jeff

[AC Bill]

So are you planning on hinging the lower dash panel, so the dash can drop down, and swing out, while the body is on?

[wallace18]

So are you planning on hinging the lower dash panel, so the dash can drop down, and swing out, while the body is on? Maybe. I thought I would attach the whole thing with screws and riv-nuts and just slide it out if needed.

[CraigS]

While the built-in rolled edge of the MkIV is sure nice visually, it does create a problem. If you run screws through the dash into the 3/4x3/4 tube, the body will cover the screws. I have seen a couple of solutions. One is a few extenders made from a short piece of 1/16 or 1/8 x 1 inch aluminum. Attach to the bottom of the square tube so dash screws can be run into that rather than the tube itself. Another is make an extra strong under dash support and leave the top of the dash unattached. It is sandwiched the square tube and the rolled rolled edge.

[wallace18]

While the built-in rolled edge of the MkIV is sure nice visually, it does create a problem. If you run screws through the dash into the 3/4x3/4 tube, the body will cover the screws. I have seen a couple of solutions. One is a few extenders made from a short piece of 1/16 or 1/8 x 1 inch aluminum. Attach to the bottom of the square tube so dash screws can be run into that rather than the tube itself. Another is make an extra strong under dash support and leave the top of the dash unattached. It is sandwiched the square tube and the rolled rolled edge.

Thanks that seems to be a good solution.

[MPTech]

I think you can drop the dash down a little bit if you like and you might also check that it is level (aligning the top edge to the 3/4" square tube is mis-leading).
Also, if you want to make it removeable, as Jeff said, mount the body and get a good fit, then run a permanent marker across the bottom of the cowl lip to determine where your screws will need to go. Almost guaranteed you will need to extend your mounts. I temp mounted my dash with the stock location sheet metal screws and installed the body, the passenger side screw was completely covered and 100% inaccessible, the center screw was mostly covered and would have been a PITA to try to remove and I doubt it could have been backed out enough.
I have a full under-dash panel that runs the complete width of the 2x2 square chassis tube (you will have to figure out a way to finish the ends where the dash curves backward and the DS is cut up above the bottom of the dash. I riveted a piece of aluminum along the 2x2 and installed riv-nuts for securing the back of the under-dash panel and drilled through the lip and into the under-dash panel on the front, then installed riv-nuts on the under-dash panel edge. I did have to put a slight bend in the under-dash panel to meet the angle of the bottom dash lip. It is a little pain to get the holes aligned and the small button heads in when installing (and your upside down trying to work), but it really stiffens up the dash, cleans up all of the wiring and such and provides a great place for switches, power outlets, and heater controls and ports!

[Norm B]

Here are a couple of pictures of the dash installed. The first is during the build and you can see the mounting screws installed as per the manual. The second is on the finished car and you can see part of the middle three screws but the ones on the outer edges are completely hidden. The windshield, doors and roll bars will have to be removed and the body lifted if I ever have to fix something behind the dash that I can't reach from the bottom.

Good Luck
Norm

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Showed this before.

Mike Everson dash under tray riveted to square firewall tube. Dash mounted to under tray with 4 screws through dashes lower lip. Console slid forward to pin the dash against the upper bodies rolled lip. Console mounted with 4 screws into the upper trans tunnel square tube. No screws are used through the face of the dash panel.

Takes 5 minutes to remove dash. All wires that are connected to a fixed part of the car are long enough to slide the console back along the tunnel. Same with dash

http://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/850x566/80-yb1_14956725106dea2d5f5f6a82f0f445667216f25f.jpg

[wallace18]

Thanks everyone. Pictures really helped me out. Any pics of how you finish up the ends you curve back behind hinges? I really love this forum, so many help when asked to.

[edwardb]

Thanks everyone. Pictures really helped me out. Any pics of how you finish up the ends you curve back behind hinges? I really love this forum, so many help when asked to.

Nothing special. Just finish them with whatever covering (if that's what you're using...) as the rest of the dash. I prefer to bend them before covering. But lots of others bend them after. Works either way. Just make sure to check the length first, because they need to be trimmed a bit as already mentioned. With the proper curve they just tuck in behind the door hinges. No need to tie them down. There are a number of pictures of my just completed dash in my build thread. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=225977&viewfull=1#post225977

[BEAR-AvHistory]

As edwardb said you can cover it before or after its bent. Mine was covered before the bend & the RH side was trimmed. Ends float free behind the door hinges.

[CraigS]

Bear can you post a pic of your ends please. My MkII is done this way but that is a different animal. I prefer this to the 'bend an outward facing tab on the end and screw it tight' method. On mine some of the hinge is covered and the dash follows the body closely which I think looks better. Just curious if it works the same on a MkIV. The red line illustrates my method.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/Dash%20end_zpskudnusdd.jpg

[BEAR-AvHistory]

OK but need to charge camera battery. What I can say is the PS is cut not folded over & its inside the door hinge. It will look like the picture except for the "tab". Neither side end is screwed in.

[JIMOCO]

Kevin - When you send the additional pictures can you also mention the mounting of your switches. It appears from the picture that all of the mounting hardware used to screw down each switch is the same diameter. How did you do that?
Wallace18 - I like that alternatives discussed above. I used a piece of 1/2" aluminum angle iron cut into five tabs and mounted them below the dash cross member. That allowed me to lower the screws below the body roll. If I pull the steering wheel and remove the five screws I have the dash out in a few minutes.

50589

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Found these pictures in my stuff hope they will give you an idea. I can take some fresh ones if you need them. Don't have any with the body off that show the curve.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=52736
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=52735

Switches.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=52737

Most all a FFR toggles from the full kit. Heater - Temp & Fan are from the electric water diverter valve I used in place of the FFR unit. Acc/Start/Run/Key switch & bezel are either NOS or replacement early FORD Bronco. All the switch bezels are Early Bronco parts in the 66-77 range. A lot are embossed with their function LIGHTS HEATER etc. For items I could not get the proper word on I got plain ones. All will fit with a little dermal work to match the opening in the bezel to the part you are mounting. Was my plan to keep the dash clean & symmetrical.

[JIMOCO]

This is great info. thank you very much.

Jim

[first time builder]

Before you mount the aluminum panel to the 3/4 square tubes, make sure you have gauge clearance. I almost got burnt that way. Had panel where i thought was best then could not mount the back bar to hold the big gauges.

Kenny

[AC Bill]

Good tip, Kenny. I have seen that happen in the past with indicator lights positioning as well.