View Full Version : Need help
Karl3567
01-16-2016, 08:02 PM
So here I am 99% sure I want to build a roadster. However, some things I still need to know.
Like how much room is in the driver's cockpit. I am fairly long legged guy at 6'2. Will I fit?
Is the complete kit worth the extra money to get all new parts?
Just some of the things I'm still trying to figure out. I have been reading a lot of posts on builds. They all are very nice cars.
If anyone can steer me in the right path I would really appreciate it. Thanks
Jazzman
01-16-2016, 09:24 PM
Welcome to the forum. You are definitely in the right place. The people here are wonderfully helpful. I am told there is more information on "that other forum that shall not be named" but I have found great information and help here.
At 5'9" I can't help you much on the "fit" question, but from what I have read from other experts like David Hodgkins, yes, you will be fine. Search the forum for a post by David on the subject. I know I read it, but at my height, it wasn't information that I retained.
I would recommend the complete kit. I am really glad I chose it. I can deviate from the kit, but at least I know I have everything to begin with. I also found it helpful to buy the IRS from FFR with the kit. It really was nice to have it all come as a set.
My suggestions, as I was where you are not that long ago:
Read lots of build thread. There is a world of information there! Read and subscribe to all the following:
2bKing's recent build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11097-King-s-MK4-Coyote-Build
both of EdwardB's build threads: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8296-Mk4-7750-Build-Progress-Update
David Hodgkins 15th Anniversary Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13397-15th-Anniversary-MKIV-build-thread-Pre-Graduation-Pics!
CarlWMS build thread. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9583-Carl-s-Mk-4-Roadster-Build
That homework assignment alone will take you a week or two, but you will be much more knowledgeable.
Trust without question the posts of EdwardB, David Hodgkins, 2bKing, Jeff Kleiner (Jeff lives in Indiana as well). They are the experts, and are exceptionally helpful. I owe every one of them more than one adult beverage!! There are many others that are great, but these guys really stand out.
And if you want a chuckle, check out my build thread. Keep in mind that I am not in the same league as these masters!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18548-Jazzman’s-quot-20th-Anniversary-Stealth-quot-Build-Thread-Brake-Rotor-Fail!
Karl3567
01-16-2016, 09:46 PM
Thanks, I have been reading a lot of building threads. That is why I have decided to go with the roadster instead of the 818. I will be doing the " homework ". The more I can learn before the build the better.
wallace18
01-16-2016, 10:19 PM
I highly recommend the complete kit over the base. JMO.
KDubU
01-17-2016, 08:02 AM
I can't help you on fit, but can tell you there are a lot of guys that are your height and some taller and they make it work. The complete makes the most sense as you don't have to spend the extra time sourcing all the parts however if you have already started this process then the basic would work as well.
I concur with Jazzman, there is no such thing as too much reading and researching threads. Bear in mind that most do some mods to the kit, some simple some complex. All add extra time to the build in one way or another but some really make sense to do IMHO. The best thing to do is write down your goals for the car, race car? Street car? Or somewhere in-between? Also write down a plan for the build with as much detail as you can as this will help you keep you organized. When considering mods, take a step back and truly think whether you want the mod as remember you're building the car for you.
j.miller
01-17-2016, 09:33 AM
Not to get to personal but.....what's your "inseam" 34 or less, not a prob. If longer, find a car to sit in....OH! Then there's your feet! Over size 10 you'll need A thin shoe to drive in like driving shoes, loafers,etc.......work boots are a "No Go"
Karl3567
01-17-2016, 10:45 AM
Well my inseam is a 34 and shoe size is 12. But from what I can tell all I need to do is a little fabrications to make this my own.
Karl3567
01-17-2016, 11:01 AM
I thank you all for your input. As soon as I get mine ordered and delivered I'll have my own build thread.
Garry Bopp
01-17-2016, 02:39 PM
I'm 6'1" with a 33" inseam and size 11.5 shoe. Using a Kirkey Vintage seat mounted flat on the floor, all the way back will give you plenty of room. I highly recommend a removeable steering wheel, as it makes entry/exit much easier. I used these seats in my coupe and in my Unique 427 roadster and I highly recommend them.
Garry
Jazzman
01-17-2016, 03:45 PM
X2 for the suggestion of a very detailed Build Plan before you start. (should have put it in my first post, but didn't think of it.) It really helped me to focus upon what I wanted and what I needed. There is a definite difference between the two if there is also a budget involved. I am already finding it interesting to see where I am adhering to the build plan and where I am deviating.
chopthebass
01-17-2016, 04:31 PM
I am 6'2" with unfeasibly long legs. I am using the big tall seats as they have less padding and you gain a little more room over the standard vintage seats. I am using a removable steering wheel (either Breeze or ********** - can't remember). It's a snug fit for sure. I have placed the seat as far back as possibly and I still feel I could do with another inch.
I have heard the Kirkey seats give you more room but I hate the look of the covers. I know they are a racing seat and not meant to be a luxury item, but just shame they don't look better!
Karl3567
01-18-2016, 08:32 AM
Sounds like to me I'm just going to have to build a roadster and go from there. Everyone has their own way of doing things and none are wrong. That is the great thing about building any if FFR cars is that no two will be alike. I thank everyone for their help. Now I must sit down and get a plan, a budget and my wife and oldest boy on board. He's going for auto mechanics. What better way to get his feet wet then build a roadster from the ground up.
Karl3567
01-18-2016, 08:36 AM
BTW would it help any if I used an Automatic. I know that it's not "right" but I'm getting too old to shift gears. Besides that would help a little on leg room. I also intend on my wife driving so even though she can shift with the best of them, I kinda want it to be easy on her as well.
Are we ever to old to shift gears??:) It is your build make it fit your needs.
DadofThree
01-18-2016, 03:58 PM
Hey there Karl,
I'm 6'4" w/ size 13, and building a roadster. Check out my build blog "helpful threads" tab. There is a link to a Tall Guy Build. With the combination of a Kirkey racing seat, and a proper footbox, you should be fine. http://www.BuildaRoadster.com
49840
Karl3567
01-18-2016, 08:36 PM
Thanks. Checking it out now
David Hodgkins
01-18-2016, 08:44 PM
http://ffroadster.com/images/Misc/DH7-10.jpg
I'm POSITIVE you can make it work!
6'6" size 16 shoe, 300+...
:)
carlewms
01-18-2016, 09:26 PM
http://ffroadster.com/images/Misc/DH7-10.jpg
I'm POSITIVE you can make it work!
6'6" size 16 shoe, 300+...
:)
David,
Your our hero!
I am 6'2" ... If I stand up straight and 260 pounds. I bought the new Tall and Big seats. I have also sat in several at the factory. You should have no issues!
Karl3567
01-19-2016, 06:42 AM
Is there anyone that owns a roadster that lives 150 maybe 200 miles from Evansville IN that I may visit to see first hand. This was my wife's idea. I don't live in Evansville but just East of it. Thanks
Karl3567
01-19-2016, 06:44 AM
I'm only 6'2 165/170 lbs.
Karl3567
01-19-2016, 07:49 AM
OK here's my build plan.
FFR roadster chassis.
351 sb 327
Complete kit FFR
Up in air tremec 600 or c6
Fabricated footbox.
Black with metallic silver strips.
FFR rearend.
Wilwood brakes 4 corners.
FFR wheels 17" x9 and x10
Edelbrock Fi
Misc stuff as I go along
Budget at 30 to 35k
Jeff Kleiner
01-19-2016, 09:04 AM
I'm in Bloomington. Along with my own car which is sized for me are 2 others that I built for local owners. One is set up for a guy your size. Give me a call and come visit sometime. 812-327-zero393
Jeff
Karl3567
01-19-2016, 12:19 PM
I'll be sure to do that. Be real interesting to see your builds. Get some inside knowledge.
Kpt112
01-19-2016, 04:50 PM
Karl,
You have a big decision to make. I started my journey just about this time last year. Ordered my kit on Feb 9th, 2015 and picked up March 31st. It has been a blast so far. You do have to ask yourself will you love this project or are you in love with the idea of doing this project. These are really powerful cars with some inherent risks associated with a build like this. I suggest you read this if you already have not done so. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9926-A-few-reminders-to-all-owners-amp-a-good-read-for-soon-to-be-s They are two different things. I have found you need to make dozens of decisions and figure out what your going to do 5 steps ahead. I would agree with the group, the complete kit is the way to go. I went that route and have not regretted the decision. Other things to consider:
1. IRS or straight axel
2. Power Steering
3. Power brakes
4. Drive train and motor.
Those are just a few decisions. I am always asking if the modification I am about to decide on should be done now or should I wait. From leather seats to a heater, from wipers to a battery box you may drive your self crazy.
Having an endless supply of money should also be a prerequisite for a project like this. This sucker can nickel and dime you pretty hard.
I also ask myself if I should have gone for the coupe? It really is a bad *** looking car. Maybe that will be my next one.
Enjoy.
Kevin
Karl3567
01-19-2016, 07:33 PM
I have thought long and hard. I have always wanted to do this kind of build for some time now. I've looked at many kit cars. But I believe in reality that these are not "kit" cars but an experience like no other. I'm sure there will be times I will pull my hair and cry but I strongly believe that these will not be a road block for me. I look forward in building with my oldest son. Memories that will last forever. Yes I may cry but they will be for joy and sense of accomplishment when all is said and done
Karl3567
01-19-2016, 08:04 PM
Kevin,
I just finished reading what should be required reading. I'm no stranger to being rearended. My 2011 F150 was hit by a lady doing 62mph. She told the sherrif she never saw me. I'm sure she did after she hit me and 3 other people. I do have respect for these cars. I understand what they are capable of. Although I've never driven one I can see the math and it is out of sight. With out the latest gadgets to help get one out of trouble. Mess with the snake too much it will turn and bite ya.
Kpt112
01-20-2016, 11:12 AM
Karl,
Sounds like you are all set. Good luck on your build. Here is a great build site I have used to get some great ideas for modifications. http://www.timsroadster.com
Tennesse Tim is the builder and gets all the credit for an awesome build. I especially like the wood dash which is something I did on my build.
Enjoy your new ride :cool:
skullandbones
01-21-2016, 12:30 AM
I read your thread. Believe me, a lot of people have gone through similar concerns and had real head scratching decisions. Just to give you my thoughts:
1. It's very doubtful you will build this especially with a complete kit for 30 to 35K. It will be closer to 38 to 43K, IMO.
2. If you think you might want an auto, build with a Wilwood pedal set and go with a straight shift first. If you get tired of it or become disabled to the point you can't shift, you can remove the clutch pedal without much difficulty ( with a proper inspection cover in the driver's foot box). I had a degenerative hip issue and got a hip replacement so I could shift. I could have gone a lot longer before the operation but I wanted it to be fun when I pushed my left leg down.
3. You may be surprised how much room you have in the cockpit of the roadster. You will notice your right leg sort of lays against the trans tunnel so it's not roomy there but I, at 6 ft and 215 and size 12 have plenty of room. I have a MKIII so I did a mod to move the left crash bar out to where it is approx. on the MKIV. I had to add a dead pedal to give myself an anchor point to feel comfortable. I know you would have enough room with your longer legs. You may or may not want a dead pedal. A quick release steering wheel is great. It makes it easier to access under the dash on the driver's side and lets you use different steering wheels as well. I hardly ever remove it for getting in or out but I do put the wheel in the trunk and lock it when I'm going to be away from the car for a while.
Good luck,
WEK.
Karl3567
01-21-2016, 08:12 AM
You guys are great. You give advice but yet let one know exactly what it's all about. No wonder has I read different post some say family. You guys look out for us novices. You let us know exactly what we are getting in for but yet in a way that gives confidents not fear about the building process. There is a wealth of knowledge that you all are willing to share. This is a one of a kind of forum.
Thanks to each of you.
6t8dart
01-21-2016, 08:26 AM
OK here's my build plan.
FFR roadster chassis.
351 sb 327
Complete kit FFR
Up in air tremec 600 or c6
Fabricated footbox.
Black with metallic silver strips.
FFR rearend.
Wilwood brakes 4 corners.
FFR wheels 17" x9 and x10
Edelbrock Fi
Misc stuff as I go along
Budget at 30 to 35k
Karl, go with an AOD and a 302. They are a little smaller, do a few foot box mods, the auto makes a huge difference not having a clutch pedal. Also, expand the pass side foot box too.
Karl3567
01-21-2016, 10:21 AM
I have chosen a 306 from summit racing. Also found a power rack and pinion steering but need to know if a mustang 2 set up works in these cars. Also am using auto trans found paddle shifters that I would love to have but not sure if I need the AOD or the AODE trans to make them work.
Karl3567
01-21-2016, 10:30 AM
49941,49942
This is the 306 and paddle shifters I found also found a nice set if March pullies.49943
These are the pullies not the engine.
The power rack.49944
Paul Mischenko
01-21-2016, 08:09 PM
I'm first time builder as well Karl. Been wanting to do one for years and saw the 20th Ann kit and pulled the trigger, was delivered in Aug and really have fun working on it. I'd say complete kit for sure. Think Jazzman nailed it when he said planning and reading. There are plenty of decisions to make as you go along with many options. Forums have been super helpful and reading blogs of the guys with multiple builds has been a huge help for me. There is also one book you can buy which I read as well, easy search on Amazon on cobra roadsters. I also bought the manual ahead of time, you can buy in in PDF and read through it. I found this helpful. Will give you a pretty good idea of what you will need and what you will need to do. The guys at FF are really tremendous, very helpful with advice as are all the guys on the forum. I spent a week getting the garage ready with plenty of space as you're going to need it with all the boxes etc.. have a plan on a body buck or where you plan on putting the body. Go for it, you won't regret it....
Jeff Kleiner
01-21-2016, 10:23 PM
Karl,
You need to use a steering rack for a Fox Mustang. There are more costly aftermarket options but I follow the K.I.S.S. (and inexpensive) philosophy---stick with OEM components and it will work flawlessly. I've done so on 4 roadster builds.
I do a bunch of autocross and track time so use a quick ratio rack in my own car but for a mostly street/occasional track car I recommend the 3 turn steering rack. Here's what you need:
Autozone:
#6383 Power steering pump $48.99
#6406 Rack and pinion; 3 turns lock to lock $74.99
(Optional; #6439---2.5 turns lock to lock or #64163---2.25 turns lock to lock)
Breeze:
75016 & 21514 P.S. fittings $39.00
21102 Braided Teflon hose (4 ft) $19.60
21524 90 degree AN6 fitting $17.50
(2)21523 Straight AN6 fittings $15.00
If you find that you want a little less assist trim the pressure relief spring in the pump. To allow variable assist pony up another hundred and a quarter for a Heidt's valve and some additional fittings .
If you are beginning with a complete kit you can sell your FFR rack in the classifieds here or on the other forum for ~$125 which will offset about 2/3 of the cost of the PS upgrade (By the way, power steering is one of the best things you can do for one of these cars).
The March brackets and pulleys are pretty, but they're also pretty expensive! I've used these from CFR performance on 3 roadster builds:
http://www.cfrperformance.com/FORD_MUSTANG_5_0_SERPENTINE_PULLEY_BRACKET_KIT_p/hz-4300-pol-kit.htm
They look good, fit well and don't break the bank :)
Good luck with your planning!
Jeff
skullandbones
01-23-2016, 01:02 AM
Karl,
Since you will be going with an auto, you can make your trans cooler look pretty much like the oil cooler setup on some of the originals like the 427s. It would be a nice touch.
Good luck,
WEK.