Steering rack contacting frame

[3dg3]

My father and I are working on a MK4 roadster, and recently got the steering rack installed. We're using a foxbody power steering rack, along with FFR inner tie rod extensions.

When the tie rods, steering shaft, etc were installed, I noticed that the rack boots contact and catch on the frame when turning the wheel (as seen in picture). Is this something that will be resolved when the suspension is loaded, or should we be looking for a way to offset the rack somehow?

49793

Thanks

[michael everson]

I don't think there is much you can do about it. The manual rack boots are a bit smaller. I wonder if you could swap them out?
Mike

[RRussellTx]

Breeze Automotive has a couple of mounting kits that will bring it forward about 1/4". Here is a link to one of them:
http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=384

[Blue MK3]

X2 on the Breeze bushings. I installed a pair on my MK 3 to help preventing the bellows from contacting the frame. Not totally clear, but far enough forward to help a lot. I added a dab of some sort of silica slide grease to overcome any damage from rubbing the frame. I suppose you could add a washer in front of the bushing to increase the forward position of the rack a bit more. An added bonus is that these are solid aluminum, so they take out some of the play in the steering using the older rubber bushings.

[skullandbones]

I don't want to divert the thread but I would like to ask a question since I have a MKIII with PS rack (fox body) and also have the Breeze aluminum bushings which I have not installed yet. One thing I noticed is that if the info is correct, I'm concerned that the bushing will cause the PS rack to contact the frame rail (2x2) which is square on mine but on the MKIV those comparable X frame members are round. It could be that that could make the difference. If that is not the case, did you also have to lower the rack with the variable adjustment on the bushings to get the steering shaft connection to clear the frame member? The reason I have not added the bushings so far is that I made so many changes to my front suspension, that was just one more that I did not need to include in the mix at the time. Now I have sorted that out, I would like to make the bushing change.

Possible suggestion for clearance of boots: Would it be possible to grind a little off the suspension mount without weakening it or add a shield to let the boot rubber slide on? Just thinking.

Thanks,

WEK.

[CraigS]

Skull, on the older cars it is common that too fix bump steer, you lower the rack and/or raise the end of the steering arm. I am not sure if this will be the case for you as I know you have made a lot of changes.
3dg3- the standard rubber mount bushing is pretty much centered in the rack so the rack ends up centered between the mounts. If you use the Breeze mounts you put the thick flange to the rear so that moves the rack forward against the forward mount plate.

[2bking]

I had the same boot rub problem. The rubber bushings that came with the kit were two pieces of rubber that were push into the mounting holes from front and back and a metal tube went inside of those. The rubber bushings had a flange that cushioned the rack front and back. I cut the flange off the front bushings and put it on the back side of the rack (when it's cut off it becomes a big rubber washer), which allowed the rack to move as far forward as possible. It fixes the boot rub problem without buying more parts.

[3dg3]

@2bking, glad to hear that worked. I had been considering the Breeze parts, but had also thought of doing what you described. Glad I won't have to slow my progress even more to wait for more parts. Already having to backtrack to fix this issue.

Thanks

[skullandbones]

@2bking, glad to hear that worked. I had been considering the Breeze parts, but had also thought of doing what you described. Glad I won't have to slow my progress even more to wait for more parts. Already having to backtrack to fix this issue.

Thanks

3dg3,

Could you and/or 2bking explain the mod a little differently or perhaps show a pic. I just can't visualize what you guys are describing (dense). I have the Breeze bushings but I am still open to new ideas. I just can't get this one so far.

Thank you,

WEK.

[2bking]

I modeled the bushing and sleeve as I remember them for illustration purposes. I don't have a picture so this CAD portrayal may not be completely accurate but this is what I remember the parts as being before and after cutting the front of the bushing off. The center goldish looking tube slides inside the rubber pieces and remains the same length (don't have to cut it).
49806

[ThickCobra]

A related steering question. I installed the rotors, calipers and wheels ( not tires yet) on my 20th anniversary build and have a steering rack operating issue. I purchased the power rack from Forte and while checking the left to right movement, I've found the rim of the wheels turn in too far and touch the control arms. Do I need to add some type of steering bumps and how would I install them. First build.

[edwardb]

A related steering question. I installed the rotors, calipers and wheels ( not tires yet) on my 20th anniversary build and have a steering rack operating issue. I purchased the power rack from Forte and while checking the left to right movement, I've found the rim of the wheels turn in too far and touch the control arms. Do I need to add some type of steering bumps and how would I install them. First build.

Steering rack limiters can be purchased. They're a standard Ford part. Available lots of places, but I get them from Breeze. http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=811. Some guys make them out of PVC, but I personally prefer these. A minimum of one per side. Might take two based on what you're describing.

The only bad part is they go under the boots on each side, limiting the travel of the inner tie rods into the steering rack housing. So you will need to remove the larger clamp on the boot, install the limiters, and then clamp the boot back in place. Probably your rack has ear clamps, which can be replaced with new ear clamps if you have the tool to squeeze them (I'm betting not). There are also clamps that just slide and then bend over, or you can use a large tie wrap. HTH

[CraigS]

A long wire tie has worked fine for me. I was concerned but it's been on for 6 months and is holding fine.

[ThickCobra]

Most definitely helped. I think I'll start by revisiting the position of the the front wheels. My rack is approximately 3.5 (probably 3.7) turns left to right so I believe the rack is correct. And, since I haven't made a lot of progress, I merely need to remove the radiator to get easy access to the rack. I'll order the spacers from breeze, minimal cost, and get things sorted. Thanks Edwardb.