Removable Dash?

[wallace18]

Has anyone ever made the dash so it is removable once the MK4 body is installed? I was told the only way to remove the dash is to remove the body. Is that correct? If so I will have to make mine removable some way. Thanks, TW:confused:

[David Hodgkins]

I riveted 5 pieces of right angle to the bottom of the hoop and then screwed the dash to the tabs. 5 small button head screws. I've had the dash on and off several times after the body was on. One note though: My dash is shaped a little differently than stock.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46887&d=1445893617

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=47053&d=1446343116

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45615&d=1442871619

HTH,

:)

[wallace18]

Thanks that is what I had envisioned doing. Nice to see it already done. Boy you have to love this forum!

[skullandbones]

I've seen roadsters that had difficult dashes. It can vary from an hour to a lot more. So figuring a way to have easy access is one of your more important decisions. I say that in the same tone as someone talking to you about insurance. It's one of those things you may need but wish you never have to use it sort of thing. Here is my version which employees three hinges. I also have a couple of dash support posts (some of the originals had these but it was part of the chassis, I think). It takes me about five minutes to remove the two posts and release the quick release steering wheel hub and undo the steering shaft and push it forward a couple of inches. Then you just wiggle the two outside edges of the dash until they flop down. I must have been in there six or seven times over the last 5000 miles. It has been mostly due to brake MC issues. I can tell you it is one of the mods I will never regret. Anything you can do to make working on these easier is time and money well spent. As a wise man once told me, "make it easy or it won't be used". He was a brain surgeon. I know this isn't brain surgery but it's a no brainer to make your dash removable.

Good luck,

WEK.

[montyals]

I used the aluminum piece from one of the forum suppliers and a piano hinge so I could turn a few screws and the entire under panel drops down for easy access to the wiring.

[edwardb]

I mount them from the back. Before covering the dash, I bolt four right-angle brackets around the top edge of the dash. They're aligned with the underside of the dash hoop where I mount matching nut plates. I locate them where they are accessible from the underside, e.g. not blocked by an instrument, glovebox, whatever, and can be reached with an extension. I use 10-32 socket head screws. I haven't had to drop one out yet, but it would be easy to do. Added advantage is no visible screws through the front of the dash. Takes a little up front planning, but not hard to do. This picture is from my last build. Three of the brackets are visible in this picture.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2286_zps2e7976df.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2286_zps2e7976df.jpg.html)

[michael everson]

I just use one screw in the center which will come out with the body on. The Russ Thompson turn signal (if you use it) and the steering column are the biggest obstacle. If you use the new center dash support from FFR, you might not even need the one screw at the top. The dash is fairly snug between the body and the 3/4 tube.
Mike

[BEAR-AvHistory]

http://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/850x566/80-yb1_14956725106dea2d5f5f6a82f0f445667216f25f.jpg

Mike Everson dash under tray riveted to square firewall tube. Dash mounted to under tray with 4 screws through dashes lower lip. Console slid forward to pin the dash against the upper bodies rolled lip. Console mounted with 4 screws into the upper trans tunnel square tube. No screws are used through the face of the dash panel.

Takes 5 minutes to remove dash. All wires that are connected to a fixed part of the car are long enough to slide the console back along the tunnel. Same with dash.

[CraigS]

The key seems to be that you have a MkIV. The rolled edge of the body overlaps the dash. On the one car I helped install the body it was a pretty tight fit. There may be some variation car to car but I don't think that there would be any worry about the top of the dash flopping around even if it weren't fastened. Leave the vinyl covering at the top extending straight up beyond the aluminum so you have a bit of fudge available to be sure there are no gaps. The shape of the body is similar to the square tube but not an exact match. And the body may change shape some as you adjust for door or hood fit.