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View Full Version : How I polish aluminum panels (just one technique of many)



David Hodgkins
12-28-2015, 04:46 PM
One of the things I gathered through various posts over time is how to polish the aluminum panels, but I have yet to see a blow-by-blow description of how it's done. This is how I'm doing mine.

The panels that come with the kit are non-clad aluminum. Therefore you are dealing with the alloy, and not a "top-coat" covering that makes it easy to polish. I have come across two companies that specialize in polishing and protecting aluminum, NuVite and Sharkhide Seal. Nuvite makes a multi-stage set of compounds that, with a lot of work, can take your dull, non-clad aluminum and turn it into a panel that is like looking into a mirror. SharkHide makes a single stage product that, when applied, protects the aluminum for 2 years or more without re-polishing. It does this by sealing the aluminum so that it can not interact with oxygen and oxidize. The aluminum uses a bit of it's shine but I've found that it maintaines that shine without oxidizing, making for a much easier to maintain finish.

I'd like to show you the process to take your panels from the factory look to a mirror finish, and protect it so that you are not constantly having to re-polish to maintain an award-winning shine.

Make no mistake, this is a very labor-intensive process. But I feel that the result is definitely worth it.

As they come from the factory, the panels are very dull and have a definite "grain" to them. This grain needs to be worked out and the aluminum needs to be "conditioned" so that has a flat surface is created. Since the aluminum is non-clad, you are working with the pure alloy. This is different than aluminum that has "cladding". Cladding is a covering on top of the aluminum that makes polishing much easier. Unfortunately, FFR aluminum is non-clad. Therefore, in order to make a mirror finish, a multi-stage process must be employed. Here is how I'm doing mine.

I purchased a multi staged product from Nuvite. I purchased One pound of F9 Grade Heavy cut to work the aluminum to a base reflection. I dabbed a "wet thumb print" every 1-1/2 inches and worked in 1 square foot increments, using a cordless right angle drill with a 7" pad. I've made two passes with this technique and this is how my trunk panels look so far:

http://www.ffroadster.com/images/polishedPanels/ShelfPhase1.jpg

http://www.ffroadster.com/images/polishedpanels/TrunkPhase1.jpg

This is a vast improvement over the base alloy but it's just a start.

The next step is to apply the Grade C every 3" and work it in with a 7" wool pad.

Continued...

David Hodgkins
12-28-2015, 04:49 PM
After a pass or two of the grade "C" compount I move onto the "S" compound. It's this compound that really gets the panels to "pop":

http://www.ffroadster.com/images/aluminumpanels/PolishedFPanel5-800.jpg

http://www.ffroadster.com/images/aluminumpanels/PolishedFPanel3-800.jpg

A self portrait:
http://www.ffroadster.com/images/aluminumpanels/PolishedFPanel4-800.jpg

continued...

David Hodgkins
12-28-2015, 04:50 PM
Once the panel is polished, you want to protect it. SharkHide is one product that I am currently using to protect the panels after polishing. I dulls the shine just a bit but after coating the panels are protected and don't oxidize. I'm not sure how long it lasts, but I've had it on my current build for over a year now and it seems to hold up pretty well. Here's how to apply it.

First thing I do is give the piece a good cleaning and then coat it with sharkhide. I set the piece on some 2x4's so it's up off the work table and after soaking a single shop towel in sharkhide I coat the piece with one slow swipe. That's the thing with sharkhide. You want to have a SOAKED shop towel and apply it in a single swipe. Then open all the doors 'cause this stuff REAKS as it flashes off.

EDIT: In the shot below, the edging was applied after the sharkhide was applied and had dried:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48689&d=1450450513

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48709&d=1450450529

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48710&d=1450450530

:)

A cobra guy
12-29-2015, 10:02 AM
Dave,
That finish looks great. All of the aluminum trim we sell at StreetWorks is raw metal with a machined finish. Some people want a shinier(sp?) look. We'll be sure to let them know about this stuff.

Harvey R.
Watsons StreetWorks

2FAST4U
12-29-2015, 10:22 AM
Excellent tutorial.

russelljones48
01-04-2016, 10:19 AM
David,

Having finally decided on Sharkhide for my panels - I have a question. I won't be polishing them but will be creating a final "brushed" finish with either 3M pads or a DA with something around a 200 grit. What should I use to clean them after the abrasive is used and before the Sharkhide is applied?

David Hodgkins
01-04-2016, 10:24 AM
You can use mineral spirits if you wish but I simply used Windex and clean shop towels to clean the panels before using the SharkHide. Just make sure ALL residue is off before applying.

HTH,

:)

GTR750EVO
01-05-2016, 10:35 AM
David,

Thanks for posting this, I've been floundering with the polishing of my panels so I've ordered some Nuvite, hopefully I'll come close to your results.

Avalanche325
01-05-2016, 01:16 PM
I used different products, but the same idea. Like David said - it is VERY labor intensive, hours per panel. Also, once you start, you are committed. Maybe try a small hidden panel if you are not 100% sure.

Be very careful what you put the Sharkhide on with. The recommended thing is cloth baby diapers. They are not that easy to find, or cheap. I got a pack ay Babys-R-Us. I suggest you follow that one. I tried a microfiber cloth and it left a nice sticky trail of fuzz. Lacquer thinner takes Sharkhide off if you need a redo. You basically get one wipe, two if you are fast, with Sharkhide.

David Hodgkins
01-05-2016, 01:32 PM
I used different products, but the same idea. Like David said - it is VERY labor intensive, hours per panel. Also, once you start, you are committed. Maybe try a small hidden panel if you are not 100% sure.

Be very careful what you put the Sharkhide on with. The recommended thing is cloth baby diapers. They are not that easy to find, or cheap. I got a pack ay Babys-R-Us. I suggest you follow that one. I tried a microfiber cloth and it left a nice sticky trail of fuzz. Lacquer thinner takes Sharkhide off if you need a redo. You basically get one wipe, two if you are fast, with Sharkhide.

I actually started using the disposable blue "shop towels" (kind of like paper towels, but NOT) you can get at any parts store. I found I was able to do the single swipe and not leave a lint trail, much to my surprise. Remember, SOAK it. Trying it on a test panel is always a good idea!

:)

P100DHG
10-03-2018, 04:43 PM
Amazing!!! What a pro! I’m inspired

BEAR-AvHistory
10-03-2018, 06:16 PM
Looks very nice & I am sure it impresses anyone who see it, but prefer to spend the hours involved driving the thing. :D

Rleon
10-03-2018, 06:42 PM
Sharkhide was originally a Marine product and can be put on almost anything metal. Does a great job on diamond plate like on a trailer. It has to be fairly good to be around salt water and all the abuse boats get.

Railroad
10-03-2018, 07:17 PM
I have found the foam paint brushes are good for applying Sharkhide on small or irregular shaped items. You need a container that will let you wet the width of the brush and about 1/2" min dip. I used it on my radiator tanks, alum bell housing, trans case, etc. I plan on using sound deadner on the carpet side of the alum panels, but Sharkhide the bottoms.

Paparazzi
10-04-2018, 08:30 AM
Nice write up. I'm also a SharkHide fan - I use their polishing compound as well as the sealant. Very happy with the results but as David says, once you start you're committed and it's a LOT of work. This is my passenger footbox. 3,000 miles later and all it needs is an occasional wipe with a damp rag to bring the finish back to this.

When you apply the sealant do make sure it's a well ventilated area - that stuff is NASTY.

https://i0.wp.com/ratsey.com/cobra/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20150703_174357-e1435962517108.jpg

P100DHG
01-20-2019, 05:52 PM
I spoke to Perfect Polishers owner a Nuvite supplier and he seems to think that F9 would be too aggressive and F7 would be unnecessary for new panels and just start with C and do S after. I feel like if you guys used a particular method why not copy it if you had success. What do you guys think?

NAZ
01-20-2019, 11:32 PM
Thanks David, great write up. I'll have to get some of that polish and give it a try. I too am a Sharkhide convert and have been using quality micro fiber towels for large areas. Easier to find than the old fashioned diapers.