gpaterson
12-23-2015, 11:13 PM
I thought I would take the time to share with other builders the slight modifications I did to the chassis of my 818. There is nothing particularly original here, I more or less gathered all what I thought were the good ideas from others in the forum and put them into my car. I am sure there have been quite a few improvements and innovations from when I did my chassis about 15 months ago. There is probably nothing I wouldn't do again either.
So here is the list.
1. Locate the fuel tank in front of the car rather than behind the seat. This had a few knock-on adjustments like having to change the gear-shifter so the cables faced rearward so changed it for an MR2 shifter (an easy change). It also was cheap, shortened the cables making it a better feel. To maximise the size of the tank for using on the track part of the front chassis was modified so the tank can be removed. The tank placement provides better weight distribution. It was custom made but an off the shelf tank is probably able to be purchased in larger markets than New Zealand. I used all the Subaru bits including fuel pump and gauge.
You will read comments that the cabin is ok for people 6' (183cms) and taller but don't believe a word of it. I am 182cms and feel the single biggest compromise the designers made is on leg room. I have largely engineered around it but I will say it is a compromise between pedal position, seat incline and keeping the top of your helmet below the roll bar.
2. Locate the intercooler at the rear of the car. Granted the coupe has better intercooler air flow but I felt that the S was significantly compromised by its air flow into the engine bay and through the intercooler. I also think that heat soak off the engine is a WRX issue so took the opportunity to engineer around it and the pipework wasn't complex. The intercooler frame serves to mount the wing (purchased in NZ). The intercooler has twin 10" fans to provide cooling when the intake temperature increases e.g. when stopped - a cheap unit for Jaycar. I use the windscreen washer tank to put water onto the intercooler.
3. I always intended to have a hardtop as it rains in New Zealand so fitted an air conditioning unit. I used the Subaru components and a cheap evaporator ex China. Job done. Lots of other minor interior modes to keep in simplistic at dash level and fully featured in the console.
4. To avoid the look of a kit car interior I have used the WRX centre console. Worked well with the other shifter mods and everything that goes from front to back goes through the tunnel except cooling pipes. I will use an Android tablet for supplementary gauges, track timing, music and everything else I need mounted into the WRX console. Not yet done but seems to fit very nicely.
5. Made up a custom set of cooling pipe elbows. Makes it easier to bleed (not easy but easier!). Need only to have the pipe mounts figured out at this stage.
6. Had to start from scratch with the pedal box. What a dogs breakfast - maybe the internet doesn't work in the USA as buggered if I know how they thought the right hand drive pedal box was ever going to fit. I think FFR have changed it since.
7. A proper harness bar. Has created a headache or two for doing the body work but it is at the recommended angle for the race seats I am using.
8. When I got my kit there was no windscreen wiper factory mod so I fitted a Benz W203 single wiper. Wasn't easy and probably would look for something better if I was to do it again. It has created a few issues with bonnet fitment but certainly looks better than the factory attempt. My advice is to do it yourself if you are up to it.
9. Numerous tabs and mountings like some tabs to mount a bash plate under the engine that can be removed to change the oil. Numerous small changes to the mounting of engine accessories, wiring and fuse boxes.
10. For New Zealand compliance you will need to weld in the seat belt mounts. Justin at the LVVTA has the design from Junty's car and mine are different from his but ok also. You will also need to weld a decent gusset on the top seat belt mount as the standard FFR mount will not pass NZ compliance. Ignore that if you only intend to use a harness - mine car has both.
After all that was done then I got my chassis powder coated locally. Cost about NZ$600 (about US$400).
If any one wants photos of the mods or more information I am happy to continue this thread. Conversely if I have bored you to tears, thanks for indulging me.
Merry Christmas people.
Kind regards
George
So here is the list.
1. Locate the fuel tank in front of the car rather than behind the seat. This had a few knock-on adjustments like having to change the gear-shifter so the cables faced rearward so changed it for an MR2 shifter (an easy change). It also was cheap, shortened the cables making it a better feel. To maximise the size of the tank for using on the track part of the front chassis was modified so the tank can be removed. The tank placement provides better weight distribution. It was custom made but an off the shelf tank is probably able to be purchased in larger markets than New Zealand. I used all the Subaru bits including fuel pump and gauge.
You will read comments that the cabin is ok for people 6' (183cms) and taller but don't believe a word of it. I am 182cms and feel the single biggest compromise the designers made is on leg room. I have largely engineered around it but I will say it is a compromise between pedal position, seat incline and keeping the top of your helmet below the roll bar.
2. Locate the intercooler at the rear of the car. Granted the coupe has better intercooler air flow but I felt that the S was significantly compromised by its air flow into the engine bay and through the intercooler. I also think that heat soak off the engine is a WRX issue so took the opportunity to engineer around it and the pipework wasn't complex. The intercooler frame serves to mount the wing (purchased in NZ). The intercooler has twin 10" fans to provide cooling when the intake temperature increases e.g. when stopped - a cheap unit for Jaycar. I use the windscreen washer tank to put water onto the intercooler.
3. I always intended to have a hardtop as it rains in New Zealand so fitted an air conditioning unit. I used the Subaru components and a cheap evaporator ex China. Job done. Lots of other minor interior modes to keep in simplistic at dash level and fully featured in the console.
4. To avoid the look of a kit car interior I have used the WRX centre console. Worked well with the other shifter mods and everything that goes from front to back goes through the tunnel except cooling pipes. I will use an Android tablet for supplementary gauges, track timing, music and everything else I need mounted into the WRX console. Not yet done but seems to fit very nicely.
5. Made up a custom set of cooling pipe elbows. Makes it easier to bleed (not easy but easier!). Need only to have the pipe mounts figured out at this stage.
6. Had to start from scratch with the pedal box. What a dogs breakfast - maybe the internet doesn't work in the USA as buggered if I know how they thought the right hand drive pedal box was ever going to fit. I think FFR have changed it since.
7. A proper harness bar. Has created a headache or two for doing the body work but it is at the recommended angle for the race seats I am using.
8. When I got my kit there was no windscreen wiper factory mod so I fitted a Benz W203 single wiper. Wasn't easy and probably would look for something better if I was to do it again. It has created a few issues with bonnet fitment but certainly looks better than the factory attempt. My advice is to do it yourself if you are up to it.
9. Numerous tabs and mountings like some tabs to mount a bash plate under the engine that can be removed to change the oil. Numerous small changes to the mounting of engine accessories, wiring and fuse boxes.
10. For New Zealand compliance you will need to weld in the seat belt mounts. Justin at the LVVTA has the design from Junty's car and mine are different from his but ok also. You will also need to weld a decent gusset on the top seat belt mount as the standard FFR mount will not pass NZ compliance. Ignore that if you only intend to use a harness - mine car has both.
After all that was done then I got my chassis powder coated locally. Cost about NZ$600 (about US$400).
If any one wants photos of the mods or more information I am happy to continue this thread. Conversely if I have bored you to tears, thanks for indulging me.
Merry Christmas people.
Kind regards
George