Gene's MKIV Build Thread

[Gene]

My Christmas present has arrived. Yesterday Stewart Transportation dropped off my new roadster.
I have been reading a lot of forum threads. They are a tremendous help. I will try to be as thorough as possible and document all my mistakes as well as my successes.

[David Hodgkins]

Gene, Congratulations! I've upgraded your account so you can use the pic albums here and update your profile.

Here's how to change your thread title as you go:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19402-Changing-The-Thread-Title-Guidelines

And this is how to embed pics using the Image Gallery:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts

I'm looking forward to watching the build, and hopefully answering any question that rise along the way.

:)

[Gene]

My donor car is a 1994 mustang.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48996&d=1450906593


The engine was a Ford Racing crate engine that I installed in 2006.
However, in order to fit it into a 94 Mustang, I had to change the timing cover, water pump, oil pan, and valve covers.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48997&d=1450906593


I did save those parts and was able to put them on the engine for the roadster. I also decided to go with an Edelbrock 650 carb.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49016&d=1450906680

[Gene]

The next step was to pull the rear end.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48998&d=1450906593
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49001&d=1450906593


After wire brushing the rear end, I peeped it with POR 15 cleaner degreaser and metal prep, I coated it with clear and black POR 15.

Now its off to Currie Enterprises for new bearings and some 3.55 gears.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49006&d=1450906593

[Gene]

To prepare for the kit, I built a body buck based on the excellent post by Bill Hass.
http://www.ffcars.com/FAQ/bodybuck02.html

I did put the horizontal rails on the inside of the legs to give me a couple more inches of garage room. I also made the rear of the buck from a combination of Bill's dimensions and the dimensions in the Factory Five manual (see below).

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49023&d=1450906680

I made a chassis dolly based on pstockha's New Wisconsin build thread. I did make mine lower though so the chassis would fit under the body buck.

[Gene]

On Sunday the big day was here. Stewart Transportation delivered the kit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49018&d=1450906680

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49017&d=1450906680


My family was here to help with the unloading and several neighbors pitched in also.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49015&d=1450906593

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49012&d=1450906593

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48986&d=1450906530

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48990&d=1450906530

[Gene]

The Stewart driver was outstanding. With his help we loaded the chassis and body on jack stands and then transferred it to the chassis dolly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48987&d=1450906530

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49019&d=1450906680

We put the body buck over the kit for now and I can get my 35 Ford back in the garage.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49022&d=1450906680

On Christmas day my family will be back to help get the body on the body buck.

[WIS89]

Gene-

Pretty awesome Christmas present; congratulations!

Also pretty cool that Bart Starr showed up to help out.

That 35 is a pretty cool stablemate for the Roadster too. Congratulations again, and welcome to a pretty cool club!

Regards,

Steve

[Gene]

I said that I would document my mistakes as well as my successes. Well, my first mistake was with the rear of the body buck. When I mounted the body on the buck, I was not satisfied with the fit. The buck didn't fit into the wheel wells the way I expected. So I made a cardboard mockup that I felt fit better. Then got another piece of OSB, cut it to match the mockup and bolted to over the old rear part of the buck.
Below is a rough drawing of the revised rear buck and a picture of the fit. It's not perfect but better than the first try.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49219&d=1451357968

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49217&d=1451357863

[cgundermann]

Nice fit; thanks for sharing your schematics.

[carlewms]

Gene,

Congratulations! I am looking forward to seeing your build progress.

Carl

[Gene]

Today I mounted the F panels. After drilling the rivet holes I cleaned the panels with "Goof Off". It worked great and removed both my marks and the ones on the panels from the mill.

Before
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49298&d=1451451554

After
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49299&d=1451451554

It also helped remove the excess silicone after riveting the panels to the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49300&d=1451452213

[Gene]

Following EdwardB's advice, I taped up everywhere I thought I could bump the frame with a tool. Then installed the bolts for the lower control arms. The front bushings were a tight fit and took some elbow grease to get the bushings in. The rear bushings required one washer each inside the frame mounts. I inserted the bolts and used a 2X4 to lever the arms before greasing and torquing the bolts. Inspire of taping everywhere I could bump the frame, I still managed to find spots to bump that I didn't tape. No harm done though. For torquing the nuts to 105 ft-lbs. I placed a block of wood to support the adjustable wrench I put on the nut. It protected the frame and made it easier to get the wrench off after torquing.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49329&d=1451532834
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49331&d=1451533006

I see in other build threads that some panels are painted. Is this necessary for all panels? Which should be painted and which should be left bare?

[2bking]

I see in other build threads that some panels are painted. Is this necessary for all panels? Which should be painted and which should be left bare?
Gene, excellent start.

It is much easier to paint, polish, etc, before installing the panels. This is where you need a build plan and color scheme to follow. For instance since the chassis is black, will all other parts be black? If you plan on some thermal insulation, will it be on inside or outside of the panels? You will have to make a finish decision on most every part in the build. Unless you are wanting the old grey aluminum finish look on the exposed panels, they need some sort of finish to protect them from oxidation. The side that gets an insulation coating of some kind can be left bare.

[carlewms]

Gene,

Great start and welcome to the fray ....

I agree with King ... Decide the look your trying to achieve and then determine how to treat the panels. The other consideration includes cost of and availability of treatment services in your area. Powder coating panels may be your choice but if the costs are high or you have to mail off the panels, it may not be the right answer for you.

What did I do? I wanted the look of the raw aluminum but also wanted protection from the elements ...

On panels which were under insulation ... Nothing other than to make sure they were clean before applying the insulation;
On the sides and under chassis exposed panels ... Professional level rattle can undercoating .., the thick stuff; and,
On visible panels (like engine compartment) ... I created a brushed look with sand paper and scotchbright pads and coated with SharkHide.

Have fun!

[Gene]

After several hours of wire brushing (both on a drill and by hand) and a can of brake parts cleaner, I finally got the spindles from the donor car cleaned up. I preped them with POR15 metal prep and masked off the machined surfaces.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49457&d=1452054581

That was followed with a coat of black POR15

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49459&d=1452056181

I did run into a small problem. The manual says to screw the ball joints into the control arms so that the balljoint angles out on the bottom. When I did this the grease fitting on the ball joint was on the opposite side of the grease fittings on the control arms. When the grease fittings were all on the same side the ball joint angled in. I called FFR and the told me to unthread the receiver (the piece that holds the ball joint,) from the two arms, flip it, then thread it back on and put the ball joint in the other direction. Simple fix but it stopped me for a couple of days over the weekend before I could contact FFR.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49458&d=1452054582

[edwardb]

I did run into a small problem. The manual says to screw the ball joints into the control arms so that the balljoint angles out on the bottom. When I did this the grease fitting on the ball joint was on the opposite side of the grease fittings on the control arms. When the grease fittings were all on the same side the ball joint angled in. I called FFR and the told me to unthread the receiver (the piece that holds the ball joint,) from the two arms, flip it, then thread it back on and put the ball joint in the other direction. Simple fix but it stopped me for a couple of days over the weekend before I could contact FFR.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49458&d=1452054582

I hope this is the "before" picture. Because in this picture the ball joint plate and ball joint itself are upside down. Your statement is correct. The ball joint should angle out at the bottom. I'm surprised to hear your control arms may have been assembled incorrectly. Haven't heard of that before. Makes me wonder though... Also in this picture it looks like your ball joint isn't fully seated. It needs to thread all the way down.

[Gene]

That was the before picture. The ball joint wasn't seated because I was pretty sure I didn't want to assemble it that way.

[edwardb]

That was the before picture. The ball joint wasn't seated because I was pretty sure I didn't want to assemble it that way.

Whew! Good.

[Gene]

Now that I have the Upper Control Arms together, I was able to finish the rest of the front suspension.
I had a little trouble fitting the shock with the 0.43 spacers into the lower control arm. I had to file the spacers down to get them to fit. The 0.675 spacers on the UCA were no problem. Once the shocks were mounted, I had another tight fit between the spindles and the IFS bracket. Again out came the trusty file. After quite a bit of elbow grease, I was able to get them together.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49479&d=1452204420

[Gene]

I am not sure if this is the place to ask this question or not. It might be better as it's own thread but I'll start here. The roadster I'm building will have a Ford Racing 302 advertised at 380 hp. It will be a daily driver with brakes from a '94 mustang.
My question is whether I should put in power brakes or not. I have a 3000 lb. 1935 Ford which had manual brakes from a '67 mustang for many years. It stopped like a 1935 truck. There was no way my wife could drive it. A few years ago I put in power brakes with Wildwood disks on all four wheels ( the old setup was disks in front and drums in the rear). The difference was astonishing. Instead of stopping like a '35 truck it now stops with less effort than my '09 Prius.
That makes me think I should go with power brakes on the roadster. I would like to get as many opinions as possible so please chime in.
Thanks.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You asked for "as many opinions as possible" and are sure to get 'em! Here's mine: no power when using the Wilwood brakes but power with a donor based configuration. I've done 4 roadsters with Mustang based braked and did vacuum assist on all.

You didn't ask about power steering but I'm known to be one of the forums' biggest believers in it so I'll just throw this out there. For a track car it's virtually mandatory; for a street car it just makes the driving experience sooooo much nicer. I've incorporated PS on every car I've built and when I get into some of my body & paint customer's cars with manual steering it makes me appreciate power all that much more.

No doubt other opinions will follow!

Jeff

[edwardb]

Regarding power brakes, I don't see where you describe which pedal box you're using. I agree with Jeff. That makes a difference. If you're using the Wilwood box, leave them manual. That's how they're designed to work. As long as you're doing four wheels disks, you have a number of options with front/back balancing, MC size, pads, etc. to have very good brakes. They will have a slightly heavier pedal than power, but very manageable and plenty of stopping power. If, on the other hand, you're doing a donor footbox, then I too recommend power. That's also how they were designed to work. Vacuum boost is an easy add and works very well. I recommend the Whitby kit. I will also pile on to Jeff's comment about power steering. Probably no one thing you can do to make your car more pleasant to drive than that. Especially if it's a daily driver as you say. I will also add my standard line -- it's not just about effort (man card...) it's also about front end alignment. Increased caster with power steering (from around +4 to +8) gives the car better straight line tracking and high speed stability. It just makes the car such a pleasure to drive. I've had both, and won't have one without PS again.

[carlewms]

Gene,

Nothing much to add on the brakes ... I have the wildwood pedal box with the upgraded front and rear brakes so manual.

Power steering ... I started with manual but after discussions with several folks specially CraigS who has given me a bunch of help on my build I converted to power steering. If you go that way do it now ... i

[Gene]

Thanks everyone. I have always planned on power steering.
I did get the wildwood pedal box since my donor car had an automatic transmission and I am planning on a TKO 600. But I will use the '94 Mustang single piston calipers. The fronts will use the stock rotors. The rears will use 11.65 rotors from an '04 Mach one with adaptor brackets from FFR to allow the use of the '94 calipers. Since I'm not using the Wildwood calipers, it sounds like power brakes is the way to go.
What do you think?

[Gene]

After cleaning up and painting the calipers, I replaced the bushings, greased the guide pins and made sure they moved freely. Then torqued the brakes onto the spindles. Now on to the rear end.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49647&d=1452634306

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49646&d=1452634305

[Gene]

After I finished the front suspension, I went back over everything with the manual and the bill of materials. I made sure I had followed all the steps, properly torqued all fasteners and used all the parts in the correct place.
Among the parts which were backordered when my kit came were two 5/8 countersunk washers. When they came a little while later, I didn't put them with the other lower control arm parts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49968&d=1453495073

When I was attaching the ball joints to the lower control arms, I saw that the castle nut was too far down on the ball joint to engage the cotter pin. I fixed this by adding extra washers.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49969&d=1453495099

When I compared the bill of materials to what I had used, I realized why the castle nuts were too low. So I undid the castle nuts, took off the extra washers and used the countersunk washers where they were supposed to go.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49970&d=1453495101

It pays to double check your work.
NOW on to the rear end.

[Gene]

My donor car is a 1994 mustang. The '94 had ABS brakes so the rear axles wouldn't fit on the roadster. I got new axles but to be able to use my '94 rear calipers I needed some special brackets from FFR and new 11.65 inch rotors from a 2004 Mach 1. The brackets don't have a part number but Dan was able to tell me what I needed.
When I got the brackets and put them on, I found out that I got the 13 inch front rotors by mistake. When I got the correct rotors and mounted the brakes there was almost no clearance on one side. The opening in the caliper is 0.790 inches wide and the rotors are 0.715 inches thick (less than 0.038 inches on a side). After several different shim combinations, I finally achieved adequate clearance on each side.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50122&d=1454101647

[Gene]

The caliper brackets allowed me to install the calipers either in front of the axle or behind it. Since the donor car had them behind the axle, I decided to install them that way.
Oops.
When I tried to install the driver side shock it interfered with the caliper. So I had to disassemble both sides and reassemble them in front of the axle. That worked.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50258&d=1454462234

I finished the rear end and suspension torquing everything to spec. I left the upper link and panhard bar unadjusted for now.
When I was done, I went through the manual and the packing list/bill of materials to make sure I had completed everything. Unfortunately, I have two 3/8" - 16 x 1" bolts, two 3/8" washers and two 3/8" - 16 Nylon lock nuts left over. I can't figure out where they go. Anyone have any ideas?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50259&d=1454462235

[Gene]

Today I ordered Xmat from Eastwood. I used this when I put a new floor in my '35 Ford several years ago. It worked great, really reduced the heat from the exhaust. It's cheaper than dynamat and is a little easier to cut.
http://www.eastwood.com/xmat-sound-deadening-18x32-inches-34-8-sq-ft.html
I plan to use this material on the inside of the panels and leave the outside bare aluminum like the original cobras.
I am wondering if I should cover the whole panel on the front of the driver side footbox before riveting it in place, or if I should mount the panel to the frame and install the pedal box first. If I cover the whole panel, I'm concerned that the 0.062" thickness will affect the fit of the other panels.

[edwardb]

Today I ordered Xmat from Eastwood. I used this when I put a new floor in my '35 Ford several years ago. It worked great, really reduced the heat from the exhaust. It's cheaper than dynamat and is a little easier to cut.
http://www.eastwood.com/xmat-sound-deadening-18x32-inches-34-8-sq-ft.html
I plan to use this material on the inside of the panels and leave the outside bare aluminum like the original cobras.
I am wondering if I should cover the whole panel on the front of the driver side footbox before riveting it in place, or if I should mount the panel to the frame and install the pedal box first. If I cover the whole panel, I'm concerned that the 0.062" thickness will affect the fit of the other panels.

I would not recommend sandwiching the insulation between the DS footbox panel and the chassis footbox. Yes, the thickness will throw off the fit of the panels. The aluminum panels for the most part are very precise. Even not installing them with the proper overlap can make a difference. Plus with that thick steel chassis plate, I doubt you're going to get much added insulation. For some of the hard to reach panels, like that one, I've seen some guys stick the insulation on the open areas before installation. Maybe consider that instead.

[6t8dart]

Pre cut the sheets to fit, install hem after you rivet the panels together. I would cut it back about an inch from the edges, and clear of any rivet areas, then after you are done, cut 2" strips to go in the corners over the rivets.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Gene,
You didn't say and I can't really tell from your photo (so much fresh shiny black paint!) but when you changed your calipers from behind the axle to ahead did you swap them side to side? If not your bleeders will not be pointing up and you will find it difficult if not impossible to get the calipers bled.

Cheers,
Jeff

[Gene]

Thanks for the input. I will definitely rivet the panels first and follow the rest of your advice.
Jeff, Thanks. No, I didn't swap the calipers. But now that I look at them, you are right. They would be hard to bleed that way. I will switch them now.
You guys have saved me a lot of trouble. Thanks again.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jeff, Thanks. No, I didn't swap the calipers. But now that I look at them, you are right. They would be hard to bleed that way. I will switch them now.


Gene,
When you make the change you'll swap everything side to side; axle brackets, caliper mounts calipers and anti-moan brackets.

Good luck,
Jeff

[Gene]

Thanks again Jeff. I will.

Over the weekend I cut out the opening for the heater in the firewall, mounted the firewall, mounted the driver side footbox front panel and installed the Willwood pedal box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50447&d=1454984045
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50445&d=1454984023
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50446&d=1454984024

I noted that some people have notched the clutch pedal and some the frame to prevent interference between the pedal and the frame. I called Factory Five to see which they recommend.

Tony said DON'T DO EITHER.

He said that the pedal travel for the clutch is not that much. When the clutch is adjusted, when the pedal is fully depressed it won't hit the frame.

[edwardb]

I noted that some people have notched the clutch pedal and some the frame to prevent interference between the pedal and the frame. I called Factory Five to see which they recommend.

Tony said DON'T DO EITHER.

He said that the pedal travel for the clutch is not that much. When the clutch is adjusted, when the pedal is fully depressed it won't hit the frame.

That's the party line, and with all due respect, I don't understand it. Check for yourself. Looks like you're far enough on your build to see the interference and measure the effect. My current build is similar to the last build. Total clutch movement available at the pedal to the floor is approx 6 inches. The Wilwood clutch pedal arm will start contacting the lower inside corner of the 3/4 inch frame member at 3 to 3-1/2 inches. The location of the pedal box can't be changed or the pedal locations adjusted. It is what it is. I've completed two builds. One with a cable clutch setup, the other hydraulic. Stock Ford style clutch setup and clutch arm. Both required nearly the full throw of the clutch pedal to the floor. There is no way either would have worked using only the top 3 to 3-1/2 inches of pedal. My current build, also hydraulic, is coming up the same way. If you could get the clutch to work somehow with the top 3 to 3-1/2 inches of pedal, the effort would be significantly increased. Not a good thing. I happen to be in the frame notch camp, and that's what I've done twice. But guys notching the pedal make a strong case for their approach. You don't have to decide now. Wait until your far enough along in the build to see if you can get it to work as is. I know where my bet will be placed.

[RRussellTx]

I agree with Edwardb - I wanted to make it work without the mods but it just did not work out. I went with the pedal notch and have not looked back.

[carlewms]

Just as another reference I have the wilwood pedal box with the hydraulic clutch ... I agree with RRussell and Edwardb the mod needs to be made.

If the pedal is unmodified and you don't notch your going to be putting a lot of lateral force on the pedal arm and hinge components above it that it is not intended to carry.

Considering the other issues with the cable system the hydraulic clutch since there is already a spot for it on the Wilwood Pedal box makes a lot of sense and I would highly recommend it ...do it now
vice waiting.

Carl

[Gene]

Good feedback guys.
I plan to use rivets on the top of the driver side footbox so I can get at the pedals when I put the trans in. For now, I will leave everything as it is. But as I continue the build, I will make sure I keep my options open.

Today I gave up trying to get the inner tie rods out by myself.
I had borrowed an inner tie rod remover tool from AutoZone. Using my impact gun I couldn't get them free. I went to a friend who had a much more powerful impact wrench, but we still couldn't get them out. Finally, I called a local shop that does a lot of steering work. Their expert said he couldn't understand why I should be having a problem. He suggested I bring it over for him to look at. When I got there, I saw that his inner tie rod remover was much better that the one I had been using. He put it on a vice and went to work. After 10 minutes, he finally got them both out. He said he has never had that much trouble removing a tie rod in his life. It looked like someone used a whole tube of locktight on them. When he was done I asked how much I owed him. He said nothing, but I got him to take a 20 after I told him how much I appreciated his help. By the way, he is planning to build an FFR roadster.

[Gene]

Today I installed the accelerator pedal from the donor car. I was not at all happy with the fit. The pedal is on an angle and is much closer to the firewall than the clutch and brake pedals.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50533&d=1455157557

I probably can live with the angle, but I will have to fix the pedal height. The pedal bracket has a pedal stop that keeps it from moving away from the firewall. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50527&d=1455156943

Tomorrow I will trim about 1/2" off the pedal stop and see what that does for it. I will have to think about the angle.

[edwardb]

Today I installed the accelerator pedal from the donor car. I was not at all happy with the fit. The pedal is on an angle and is much closer to the firewall than the clutch and brake pedals.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50533&d=1455157557

I probably can live with the angle, but I will have to fix the pedal height. The pedal bracket has a pedal stop that keeps it from moving away from the firewall. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50527&d=1455156943

Tomorrow I will trim about 1/2" off the pedal stop and see what that does for it. I will have to think about the angle.

That's really not very nice. I don't think you would be happy with that once you start driving, and it wouldn't be easy to adjust or replace once the build is finished. I know you're trying to do a donor build. But you would not be disappointed with this pedal. I've used them a couple times. http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=283. This will fix the angle and get the pedal up where it belongs. Works great.

[6t8dart]

Double check the instructions, that's not right. My donor pedal is modified as prescribed and it does not have so much angle to it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

X2 what edwardb said. When I built my first car and looked at the cheesed up way that the donor pedal was supposed to be used I actually laughed out loud! It's no secret that I'm often not a big fan of upgrading without a proven benefit---the Russ Thompson pedal is definitely proven. When installing it once you have it in your preferred position (usually about 2" forward of the brake pedal when at rest) be sure to make and use a positive pedal stop so that the pedal itself can't travel farther than the throttle plate allows.

Cheers,
Jeff

Cheers,
Jeff

[Gene]

I didn't mention in my last post that I did mock up the pedal the way the manual says. It looked like the accelerator pedal was more than 4" ahead of the brake pedal. I just wasn't comfortable with that set up. I think I will go with the Russ Thompson pedal.
Thanks again guys.

[Gene]

Since I had a viable alternative with the Russ Thompson pedal, I decided to try making the modifications to the gas pedal in the manual. I really didn't like it. I will go with the alternative.

[Gene]

It's been a week since I updated this post. Since then a lot has happened.
I discovered that the fuel tank from my donor car was filled with rust. It was too bad to try to save it or the fuel pump. I got a new tank from Oreilly's and a new fuel pump and bypass pressure regulator from summit. The fuel pump flows 155 liters per hour which is enough for a 500 hp engine. Since mine will only be 300 to 345 hp, it's a little overkill but that's ok.
I also test fitted the steering rack extensions in the donor car steering rack. They stuck. The threads on the rack were galled and they ruined the threads on the steering rack extensions. So, I got a remanufactured steering rack and I am now waiting for new extensions from FFR.
While I was waiting for new parts, I started on the cockpit sheet metal. I've finished the passenger side foot box and most of the rear of the cockpit.
I do have a question. I want to be able to access the pedals, so I'm planning to use rivnuts on the top of the driver side footbox. Is it worth while to use rivnuts on the top half of the inside wall?
Also are there any other places I should use rivets?

[edwardb]

I do have a question. I want to be able to access the pedals, so I'm planning to use rivnuts on the top of the driver side footbox. Is it worth while to use rivnuts on the top half of the inside wall?
Also are there any other places I should use rivets?

In my opinion, the access cover provided for the inside top DS footbox provides adequate accessibility to the footbox area. There's a lot packed in there, and it's never going to be particularly easy. But between the cover and the what you can reach from inside the cockpit, should be OK. With the body on, you'll find much of the inside top DS footbox is covered anyway, and the top joint is right against the underside of the body. So having it removable wouldn't be easy or help much. Same with the inside panel. The engine will cover much of that or at the very least make it hard to get in and out. Plus you want all those panels nice and sealed for heat, sound, fumes, etc. Having them removable could affect that.

[Gene]

Once again, thanks for the excellent feedback. Rivets it is.

I haven't posted any pictures lately, so I think it's time to document my progress this week.

Before installing the passenger side footbox, I made templates from construction paper for each panel.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50971&d=1456280246

I then drilled, siliconed and riveted the panels in place.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50986&d=1456280282

I then check fitted the templates and adjusted as necessary. Then I used the templates to mark the Xmat sheets. Using a square, I then finished marking and cutting the Xmat.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50972&d=1456280273

The installed insulation fit easily in place.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50976&d=1456280276
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50980&d=1456280278

[Gene]

After finishing the footbox, I moved on to the steering rack. I'm still waiting on the rack extensions, but I installed the rack using Prothane bushings. I have temporarily installed the flange bearing, top pillow block and steering shafts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50992&d=1456282813

After that, I finished the rest of the cockpit sheetmetal except for the driver side footbox.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50981&d=1456280279

Next came the fuel tank.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50979&d=1456280278

I am still thinking about the fuel filter. I don't want to reuse the fuel lines from the tank to the filter, so I will read some more posts to see what others have done.

I received the Russ Thompson accelerator pedal but it says not to install it until the engine is in place. Looking at various posts, it doesn't look like everyone waits to install it till after the engine is in. For now I have enough to do that it doesn't matter.

Finally I spent today planning the brake lines. I ordered new flex brake lines, banjo bolts, flex line fittings and hardware from Summit. While I'm waiting for them, I will run the hard lines.

[Gene]

It has been a long week with not much done on the roadster. I had to cut up a 20 ft. Long 13 in. Dia tree branch that broke off a tree in my back yard. That initiated a lot of other yard wok that kept me away from the car. The to top off the week my 2009 Prius wouldn't shut off. I took it to the dealer and found out that Toyota has an extended warranty for this problem. So now I'm driving a loaner.

I did manage to finish the installing the brake lines. The factory five roadster build video and some excellent pictures on David Hodgkin's build thread helped a lot.

I am on my iPad now and can't figure how to copy the picture links. I will post the pics when I get home.

[Gene]

Before trying to bend the real brake lines, I made a mock up using 1/16" steel wire. These mock ups helped me confirm that the routing was the way I wanted it and helped identify places for bends.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51245&d=1457139327

Following the FFR build video #10, I added the reservoir and fill lines.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51254&d=1457154857

Then I plumbed the lines from the master cylinders.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51246&d=1457139796

I ran the hard line from the rear Master cylinder down the front of the foot box to the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51231&d=1457112425

[Gene]

For the front hard lines I tried to make the bends somewhat like the pictures from David Hodgkin's 15th Anniversary MKIV build thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51248&d=1457139797

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51250&d=1457139799

On the rear, from the frame back, I tried to follow David's pictures.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51252&d=1457139800

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51251&d=1457139800

[Gene]

Today, in spite of being lazy and wasting half the day watching NASCAR, I did get some work done. I Installed the fuel filter, fuel pump and rubber hose from the pump to the filter.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51298&d=1457319424

However, I ran into a mental block about doing the hard lines. The kit comes with 2 sets of 60 inch hard lines for the fuel and return lines. With the position of my fuel filter, I think I need one 60 inch and one 12 inch line. This is so far from what comes in the kit that I was afraid to attach the hard lines.

[Gene]

I almost had the same problem with the wire harness. I have the Ron Francis wire harness. After reading the manual, it took me forever to be confident that I was putting the fuse box and main harness in the right place. Finally I just did it. When the wires for the brake switch were the right length and easily installed, I got my confidence back.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51300&d=1457319445

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51299&d=1457319445

[Gene]

I also installed the heater today. I felt that the instructions for the heater were not as good as most of the other instructions. They say to install the grommets on the heater tubes first and then install them into the firewall. I found it much easier to install the grommets in the firewall then insert the heater tubes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51306&d=1457319449

The instructions also failed to mention that there are o'rings that need to be added to the 90 degree tubes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51305&d=1457319448

But I suppose they assume you should be able to figure these things out. The heater fit looks good.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51323&d=1457331580

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51324&d=1457331581

[Gene]

It's been a while since I've posted anything. It's been a busy couple of weeks, but I did get some things done on the kit.
After finishing the brakes I felt pretty comfortable with tube bending. I started on the fuel lines and the return line went as smoothly as the brake lines. Then I started on the 5/16 supply line. I almost finished the first bend when the line kinked.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51587&d=1458094272

I made some experimental bends using the kinked line to try to find the minimum bend radius. I was pretty comfortable with a 3.5 inch radius. I bent up the lines using that radius and was really disappointed with the results. The fit was not attractive.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51588&d=1458094273

So I went back and retried bending at a 2 inch radius. As long as I went slow and kept moving the center of the bend I was able to get good bends with no kinks. I finished the bends and they looked a lot more like I wanted.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51585&d=1458094270
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51801&d=1458527130

[Gene]

Once the fuel lines were complete, I moved on to routing the wire harnesses. I wanted to run the alternator, starter, sending unit, and coil wires with the rear harness through the firewall. The problem was the connectors, especially the alternator connector. I needed a hole big enough for the connector and then a grommet that would not leave a large hole in the firewall. I found a 4 inch seals-it grommet that looked just like what I was looking for.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51802&d=1458527969

I punched four 5/8 inch holes to run the wires through. Then I cut between the left and right holes to allow the connectors to pass through. I mounted it up but the weight of the wires opened up the hole where I cut it for the connectors. In order to prevent that, I made a bracket to sit behind the seals it grommet to support the wires.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51797&d=1458526166

With cuts on the sides, I could put the wires with grommets in it without having to pass the connectors through the bracket. The bracket worked and the wires go through the firewall in the seals it grommet without opening the cut between wires.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51794&d=1458526147

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51795&d=1458526165

[Jazzman]

Gene - where did you find the 4" Seals-it Grommet? I looked at Summit and could only find smaller ones. Thanks!

[Gene]

Jazzman,
Sorry for the late replay. I haven't had time to look at the forum for a few days.
I got the grommet at summit. here is a link.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-gs404-bl

[Gene]

I'm at that point in the build where I need to finish the engine and transmission.
Last week I tore down and inspected the engine. Everything looked good, so I put it back together. I still need to find alternator and power steering brackets and order the MSD box and distributor. Other than that it's ready to put on the test stand for the final check.

This weekend was the Goodguys show in Del Mar. It came at a perfect time for me because I need to purchase the rest of the drivetrain.
Yesterday I spent about two hours with Alan Brown from 1 Shop Auto. They are a distributer for Tremec, McLeod and others. He took the time to explain my options and the cost and benefit of each. I decided to go with the TKO 600 with o.68 fifth gear. I decided to go with a hydraulic clutch. I chose a McLeod 1406-30 hydraulic throwout bearing. In spite of the fact that they were a lot more expensive, I decided to go with the McLeod 6913-07 twin clutch kit and a QuickTime RM-6060 bellhousing. 1 Shop’s prices were actually better than Summit’s.

Once part selection was completed, that left the issue of the shortened pedal because of the frame interference with the Wilwood pedal box. The McLeod throwout bearing calls for a 0.75” master cylinder with 1” stroke on a 6:1 pedal. When I measured the stroke I will get without modifying the frame or pedal last night, I had only 0.86” stroke. I did the math myself and calculated that with a 13/16” bore master cylinder I would get 0.85” of stroke. Just enough.

Fortunately, the Wilwood booth was one booth away from the 1 Shop booth. Today, Alan from 1 Shop and I went over to the Wilwood and they recommended a compact remote flange mount master cylinder with a 7/8” bore, a remote reservoir and flex/hard line. This combo will provide full clutch function with 0.75” stroke.

The funny part of all these hydraulic calculations is that two weeks ago I was helping my granddaughter prepare for an 8th grade science test. It was on hydraulics. I had to explain how to do exactly these calculations.

[Gene]

We've had a lot going on lately and I haven't had a chance to up date the thread.
I figured I would post some pictures of what I've accomplished lately.

Inspected the engine and everything looked good.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52374&d=1459828019
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52376&d=1459828110

I am almost finished reassembling it but I'm still waiting on alt & PS brackets and a new water pump pulley.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52392&d=1459828666

[Gene]

I finished the routing the front and rear wire harnesses.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52389&d=1459828139

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52388&d=1459828139

I also finished the trunk sheet metal.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52386&d=1459828137

And installed the battery.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52378&d=1459828130

[Gene]

I ordered the remote reservoir for my hydraulic clutch from FFR so that both the brake and clutch master cylinders would match. However, when it arrived it was different. They must have recently changed styles. Oh well, I mounted it anyway.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52698&d=1460507888

I installed the willwood 7/8 master cylinder and used flex line to connect it to the reservoir.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52701&d=1460507890

I also removed the chassis dolly and put the car on the donor car wheels in preparation for installing the engine and trans.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52381&d=1459828132

I want to test the engine before I put it in the car. I borrowed the base test stand from a friend. It was last used for a Hemi going in a 38 plymouth. To use it I will have to build motor mounts, radiator mounts and figure out the wiring and fuel system. The first step will be to build motor mounts. That should keep me busy for a few days.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Gene,
When the body is on that master cylinder will be virtually inaccessible. Additionally I'm afraid you'll find it necessary to modify the footbox top and have some challenges with getting it to seal with your brake lines coming out in that location. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you might want to consider and address these things now rather than later.

Good luck,
Jeff

[Gene]

Jeff,
I have been tied up with a lot of external issues. Family issues and other distractions so I haven't been back to check the forum lately. However, at Huntington Beach, I saw exactly what you were talking about. It helps to see a finished car to understand what you are doing.
Thank you for pointing it out. I really appreciate the input.

[Gene]

It's hard to believe that it's been over month since I last updated the post. I spent way too much time building the engine test stand.
I welded up plates to attach to the engine motor mounts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53970&d=1463247877

Then while it was on the engine motor mounts and supported with wood blocks at the rear, I attached the bellhousing and and cheated it's alignment. The initial readings were not good. The bellhousing was 0.013" eccentric to the crankshaft. When I removed it to identify the problem, I saw some powder coat in the pilot hole was effecting the fit. I cleaned up all the holes and reattached and remeasured. This time without the flywheel the eccentricity was 0.003". With the flywheel on it was concentric within 0.0035".

[Gene]

With the bellhousing attached I finished the rear mount for the test stand.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53969&d=1463247852

I next fabricated a temporary gage panel, an exhaust system and radiator mount.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53968&d=1463247838

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53965&d=1463247745

My fuel tank is a one gallon gas can attached to a cheap electric fuel pump.

[Gene]

Finally, after spending way too much time building the test stand, I started the engine. I adjusted the timing, carb float levels and high idle. However, while it runs fine at idle and with gradual increases and decreases in RPM, it backfires through the carb when I give it a quick kick with the accelerator. I have checked for vacuum leaks but can't find any. The initial timing is at 15 degrees and total timing is at 38 degrees without the vacuum advance attached. It backfires both with and without the vacuum advance attached. I am stumped.
I give up for today. I will go play some golf and try again tomorrow.
If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate the advice and I won't wait a month before I get back to the forum.

[wallace18]

IMO you have too much timing in it. Total timing with Vac adv hooked up should only be 34-36 IMO. Base around 8-10. Sounds like it may have a lean spot causing the backfire too. Check accel pump for proper operation.

[Gene]

Wallace,
Thanks for the feedback. My engine is a Ford racing crate motor M-6007-XE3M purchased in 2006. When I googled timing for that part number, I got Ford Racing Performance M-6007-X302 340 hp Crate Engine Guide. That document states "Timing: 14 to 16 degrees initial, 36 to 38 total with carburetor". I am running a Holley Street Avenger 570. Since the M-6007-X302 replaced the M-6007-XE3M, I assumed that the timing should be the same.
I will try backing off the timing to see if that helps. I will also start to look into the carb to see what I can find.
Thanks again.

[Gene]

I tried to back off the timing to 8 degrees but the backfire continued. I then returned the timing to 15 degrees.
When I checked the vacuum level initially, I did it before I dialed in the idle. At that time the idle was at at about 1200 rpm and the vacuum was at 13". When I dialed in the idle I didn't recheck the vacuum level. Now the idle is at about 800 rpm and the vacuum has dropped to 9". Based on that, the 6.5 power valve that came with the carb was too much. Today, I changed the power valve to 4.5. I also tried to dial in the idle mixture screws but they were just about right initially.
Nothing worked. It still backfires.

[Gene]

I just talked to Tom at Ford Racing Performance. He explained that that with this engine at 850 to 900 RPM idle I should have 13" of vacuum. When I told him I had 8", he said that I have a vacuum leak. He explained that the only intake manifold gasket I can use with my performer RPM intake manifold is a few pro 1262R or 1262S-3. He also recommended I use an 1/8" cardboard gasket between the carb and the manifold and coat the gasket with lithium grease. He said initial timing should be between 14 and 18 degrees, with total timing at 34 degrees. Finally he recommended that I disconnect and plug the vacuum advance and run mechanical advance only.
I am now off to see if these recommendations work.

[Gene]

Well, I now know that if you have GT-40 heads and an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake manifold, you can't use the standard Edelbrock manifold gaskets. I put in a Fel-Pro 1262R manifold gasket and the engine runs fine. No Backfires, good vacuum and a nice idle. Thank you Ford Racing Performance.

[Gene]

I fabricated a prototype bracket for the clutch reservoir out of a 3/32 steel bracket. In this location I might even be able to fill it.
I will have to make a less amateurish version before I finish the footbox aluminum.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=54184&d=1463883007

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=54183&d=1463882986

[Gene]

I installed the hydraulic throwout bearing on the transmission. Following McLeod's video (https://www.mcleodracing.com/content/tech-center/tips-instructions/how-to-videos/) I adjusted the bearing to the proper setting.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=54885&d=1465662852

After bleeding the system, I measured the throwout bearing travel when the pedal was pressed till it hit the frame. It was 0.691".

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=54886&d=1465662853

For my clutch, McLeod recommends 0.440" to 0.445" travel. Talking to a McLeod tech, he recommended I set a clutch stop at 0.450". Since I was way past the recommended travel, I adjusted the push rod.
Initial pushrod setting.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=54883&d=1465662851

By screwing in the pushrod, I was able to adjust the throwout bearing travel when the pedal hits the frame to 0.450".

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=54884&d=1465662852


After double checking the travel, I tightened the lock nut on the pushrod.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=54891&d=1465664948

I was glad that I listened to the FFR guys who said it wasn't necessary to cut the pedal or the frame. With the help of Alan Brown from 1 Shop Auto, McLeod and Wildwood. I think the clutch will work fine.

[Gene]

Yesterday my son came over for father's day and to help me put the engine and transmission in the roadster. To get ready, I tried to put the trans on the engine by myself. I could get the splines engaged but couldn't get the pilot into the pilot bearing. After an hour of trying, I decided to remove the bellhousing and clutch and try when I could look at the pilot as it went into the bearing. That worked OK and with four cut off bolts as guide pins the alignment was good but the fit was still tight.
I put the clutch and bellhousing back on and tried again. By this time my son had arrived and the two of us ran into the same problem, the trans would go on as far as the pilot bearing but we couldn't get it to go all the way on.
Many years ago I learned the hard way never to force things together using mounting bolts. However, I was desperate. I removed the guide bolts and inserted the real bolts. Then slowly, I tightened one bolt one turn with a short wrench. Then moved on to the next bolt, one turn with very little torque. Amazingly it worked. I was able to inch the trans onto the engine.
Once that was done, with the help of my neighbor and his son. we put the engine into the car.
It's starting to look alike a car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55161&d=1466439913

[Gene]

When we put the engine in the car, we were careful to make sure that the engine didn't hit the frame or hang up on any chassis parts. Unfortunately, we didn't watch where it came close to the wiring. Eventually we noticed that the motor mount stud was caught on the front wire harness. The wire harness stretched but didn't break.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55398&d=1466900812

After replacing a couple of clamps and adding some electrical tape where the loom was spread, the harness was good as new.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55399&d=1466900813

[Gene]

Yesterday I bled the clutch master cylinder and connected it to the throwout breaking. I then slipped the driveshaft into the back of the trans but didn't connect it to the rear end. With a friend pressing the clutch pedal, I rechecked the throwout bearing travel. It was still good. Then, while he depressed the pedal, I turned the engine with a wrench on the crankshaft bolt. The crankshaft didn't turn with the clutch in and did turn with the pedal out. Just like it should.

After that I started putting the engine accessories back on. I installed the power steering pump, alternator, distributor, plug wires and headers. I also loosely attached the J pipes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55400&d=1466900814

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55404&d=1466900816

The only issue I ran into was the engine oil dipstick. The dipstick that I have comes too close to the brake fluid reservoir.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55403&d=1466900816

A while back I tried to use a Lokar flexible dipstick but it was the wrong diameter to fit into the Ford Racing crate engine block. The dipstick opening on my block is 3/8".

Does anyone know of an alternative dipstick that will fit the block and not get so close to the brake fluid reservoir?

[Gene]

Today, I filled the trans with fluid and made the final routing for the clutch fluid hose. To prevent chafing on the edge of the bell housing, I put wire loom over the fill hose and bleed line.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55448&d=1466983510

[Gene]

This week I started on the radiator installation. I am using the radiator from the donor car a 94 Mustang.
Imitating William Spencer's radiator protector screen, I got a 24 X 24 expanded metal sheet from home depot. I cut it to fit and coated it with clear POR-15. I attached it with nylon mounting rods from O'Reilly's.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55553&d=1467235338

The next step was to mount the radiator on the frame. I immediately noticed that a plastic mount tab on the radiator interfered with the frame. So I got out my handy hand saw and cut it off.
Before
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55552&d=1467235319

After
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55558&d=1467235342

Unfortunately, I cannot be trusted with even manual cutting tools. As the saw went through the plastic it continued into my hand. Four stitches later, I got back to work.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55557&d=1467235342

[Gene]

As it turned out, the first tab wasn't the only one to interfere with the installation. A lower tab on the same side also hit the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55555&d=1467235340

I was able to remove this one with a cutoff blade on my angle grinder without doing any more bodily harm. I reinstalled the radiator and discovered that the drain hose port also interferes with the installation.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55554&d=1467235339

It prevents the radiator from being properly aligned with the tabs on the frame.
Oh well, pull the radiator off again and see if I can relocate the drain port.

[WIS89]

Gene-

Sorry about your hand/finger! I hate to admit it, but I have been there myself...

How do you like the clear POR -15?

Keep up the good work!

Regards,

Steve

[Gene]

More than 20 years ago someone gave me a radiator overflow tube repair kit. I don't remember who or why and I have never used it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55560&d=1467240638

At least 10 times over the years I almost threw it away. Now I'm glad I didn't. In about 15 minutes, I was able to cut off the old overflow tube and add a new o'ring sealed tube.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55559&d=1467240613

The radiator fits. Tomorrow I will confirm the fit and finish the installation.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55562&d=1467240640
\
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55563&d=1467240641

[Gene]

After looking at the location of the radiator cap, I wondered if I could reach it after the body was on. I called FFR and they confirmed that I wouldn't be able to reach it. Good thing it only took a few minutes and no money to relocate the overflow tube. I also discovered that the lower outlet on my radiator is 1.75" and the corrugated hose won't fit.
I ordered a 1.75 to 1.5 reducer and joiner from Pegasus Racing to address the hose issue and an inline filler neck from Summit to take care of the cap issue.

[Gene]

Installed the bypass fuel pressure regulator on the firewall. When I ran the fuel pump I had 6psi at the carb and no leaks. Yippee.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55761&d=1467681116

I then roughed in the heater hoses.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55760&d=1467681115

The heater came with 90 degree 5/8 inch inlet and outlet pipes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51305&d=1457319448

I think I will go with straight pipes out of the heater. One 5/8 inch and one 3/4 inch to match the engine outlets. I'll be looking for those pipes in the next few days.

[Gene]

After doing some research, I've decided to go with an electric heater control valve and 45 degree pipes. They should be here in a few days.

I finished the upper radiator hose with filler neck. The manual says for the stock radiator, route the hose through the F panel. However, with the radiator cap limiting how far I could move the radiator towards the passenger side, I routed mine directly into the engine compartment.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55864&d=1467937626

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55862&d=1467937625

I also mocked up a bracket for my TFI coil. Just two 1X1 aluminum tubes with plastic end cap. I will mount it on top of the passenger side foot box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55867&d=1467939505

[Gene]

After a three week road trip to the experimental aircraft association fly-in and another two weeks hanging out with my granddaughter, I am finally back to work on the roadster. Yesterday I tried to connect the neutral safety switch but when I turned the key nothing happened. After a little trouble shooting, I discovered that the tags on the wires for the brake switch and the neutral safety switch were switched (no pun intended). After connecting the proper wires to the switch, I tried again. Again the engine wouldn't crank. With some more trouble shooting, I remembered that I hadn't installed the engine ground (The trouble with taking three weeks off). After adding the ground, the engine cranks in neutral but not in gear. That's the way it's supposed to work. It only took five times longer than it should have.

[carlewms]

Gene,

I have forgotten that I had it hooked up and then could not figure out why the engine would not crank ... until I realized the transmission was not in neutral ... �� But before I did I managed to check everything else that I THOUGHT was stopping it from cranking.

[Gene]

Carl, I guess thats part of the building experience.
Gene,

I have forgotten that I had it hooked up and then could not figure out why the engine would not crank ... until I realized the transmission was not in neutral ... �� But before I did I managed to check everything else that I THOUGHT was stopping it from cranking.

[Gene]

For the last couple of days I have been trying to design the layout for the dashboard. The gages are of course easy. The switches are another story. I had no idea how many switches I had. I have an ignition switch, a headlight switch, a wiper switch, a heater temperature switch, a heater blower switch, gage light switch, turn signal switch, headlight dimmer switch and a horn switch. Finding a layout that looks ok and still lets me get to all of them easily is an interesting experience. But I do kind of enjoy trying different arrangements. Eventually I will have to make a final decision but I'm having fun.

It does slow down progress on the car but in-between layouts I am doing a little. Today I installed the wiper motor.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58017&d=1472612292

On the subject of switches, I do have a question. I have the Factory Five Electric Gauge Set. It came with a water temperature sending unit. I will need to get a cooling fan thermo switch. Do I need to get a separate sending unit or can I use the sending unit that came with the gauge set. If I can use the existing one how is it wired.

[6t8dart]

After doing some research, I've decided to go with an electric heater control valve and 45 degree pipes. They should be here in a few days.

I finished the upper radiator hose with filler neck. The manual says for the stock radiator, route the hose through the F panel. However, with the radiator cap limiting how far I could move the radiator towards the passenger side, I routed mine directly into the engine compartment.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55862&d=1467937625



Gene, I see a potential problem...your filler cap is below the level of the top hose, the cap needs to be at the highest point in the whole system to vent trapped air. This could lead to overheating and steam pockets. its easy to fix, go to an auto parts store and look for a radiator hose from a mustang or ford truck, they have a 90 bend right after the water neck, then attach the filler to it.

[Gene]

Thank you ! Thank You! Thank You!
I was a little concerned about that when I installed it.
As soon as I saw your comment, I knew you were right. Today I took your advice and added the radiator hose and relocated the filler cap.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58039&d=1472678939

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58038&d=1472678924


Gene, I see a potential problem...your filler cap is below the level of the top hose, the cap needs to be at the highest point in the whole system to vent trapped air. This could lead to overheating and steam pockets. its easy to fix, go to an auto parts store and look for a radiator hose from a mustang or ford truck, they have a 90 bend right after the water neck, then attach the filler to it.

[Gene]

I finished the very crude mock up of the dash layout. I will use some Ron Francis switches that I won at a car show a few years ago for the rotary switches. They will be mounted on the front of the dash as will the horn button. The dash light control switch and all the toggle switches will be mounted below the dash.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58127&d=1472857709

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58126&d=1472857708

[Gene]

The next planning function will be the audio. I have visited quite a few auto stereo shops in the last couple of days. The first one I visited was about a quarter mile from my house. The seemed very knowledgeable. The next couple were staffed by people who knew next to nothing about their products. I did find one other shop where the guy knew about his product and also said he used to work at a shop very near Super Performance so he was familiar with cobras. He had some good recommendations but I think I will stay with the guy close to me.

Their recommendations were as follows.

Mount two Diamond Audio DE652 Coax speakers in the sheet metal behind the seats between the roll bars.
Mount Helix Esprit E62C component speakers in the kick panels with the tweeter in the dash.
Mount an ARC XDi 600.4 4 X 150 Channel 600 watt amplifier in the trunk.
Also mount a Sony MEX-N5100BT receiver in the trunk.

The receiver can be controlled by my smart phone to change sources (I-POD phone or radio) and to change radio channels.

I am concerned about fitting the speakers in the kick panels. They are 6.5 inches in diameter and 2.5 inches deep. Has anyone mounted speakers like this? Are there any build threads that show the installation details?

Thanks.

[Gene]

It's been a relatively productive weekend. As I worked on the layout of the stereo, I decided that I could't fit 6.5 inch speakers anywhere up front. My current plan is to build a box to fit over the transmission tunnel and under the dashboard to hold 2 5.5 inch speakers. This will also allow me to possibly move the toggle switches from the bottom of the dash to the face of the speaker box. I will make a prototype and see how it looks.

Meanwhile, I made the final routing of the battery cable. I routed it down from the trunk across the frame behind the differential.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58241&d=1473126634

From there I routed it along the main frame tube to the front.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58238&d=1473126632

I wrapped it around the frame near the footbox and back to the starter.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58236&d=1473126616

[Gene]

I also mounted the horns from the donor mustang. I mounted them on the passenger side frame near the radiator.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58239&d=1473126633

The other major accomplishment was the temporary mounting of the side pipes. I will need them when I take it for a test drive after I finish the dash layout and interior wiring.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58237&d=1473126631

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58240&d=1473126633

[Gene]

After looking at options for speakers for the stereo, I have decided to put two 6.5 inch composite speakers behind the seats, build a speaker box for two 5.25 inch component speakers with the tweeters in the dash. I went to Atlas Sheet Metal in Irvine and had them build the speaker box. The white material is just a temporary protective coating over aluminum.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58376&d=1473387876

It will fit under the dash and over the transmission tunnel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58374&d=1473387857

It fits great but I do have to bend the front tab down to be flush with the top of the Transmission tunnel.

[Gene]

I finally completed adding the speakers, switches and labels to my speaker box/switch panel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58940&d=1474678232

It fits under the dash and all switches are easy to reach.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58937&d=1474678120

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58936&d=1474678073

I also installed the rear speakers behind the seats.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58935&d=1474678036

Now all I have to do is figure out how to get about 20 wires into the switch box and hooked up.

[Gene]

I finished installing the stereo and amp.The Sony SongPal app lets me put the head unit in the trunk and control all the functions from my phone.
It works great. Since the rear speakers are so close to our heads, I did have to turn the gain on the rear speakers all the way down and increase the gain on the front speakers to get a good balance.
There is no problem with volume. No matter how much exhaust and wind noise there is, this system can overcome it. I may go deaf from excessive audio but that's OK

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59256&d=1475365626

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59257&d=1475365639

[Gene]

After laying out the stereo and amp I began the counting task of wiring all the switches, gages and miscellaneous items like the radio and MSD box.
Shortly after starting I realized that I need to get organized and make sure that I knew all the wire requirements and where each wire went. I made a spread sheet. I have listed 122 wire connections. I have identified which ones have a clear required location and which need to have a location identified before I continue. There are 14 connections yet to be identified. they include 12 volt switch, 12 volt B+ and ground connections.
Now comes the challenge of making all those connections without having an untraceable spaghetti like mass of wires.

[Gene]

I hate wiring.
Over the last few days, I have been working on finishing the dash wiring. Because I am using a carburated engine and don't have any computers, there were several wires in the Ron Francis harness that I did't need. To eliminate these wires, I removed the wire looms and cut them off close to their connectors. Then I rebundled the wires combining several wire looms together.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60157&d=1477490027

Even after rebundle, I still have a more of a wire mess than I want.
I ran out of patience and decided to make sure everything worked before I finished bundling the rest of the wires. I connected all the switches and gages and everything works. I will improve the final wiring when I cover the dash board.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60155&d=1477490002

I am happy with the layout except for one thing. I carefully laid out the positions for he indicator lights. They look great except that I forgot to check the location of the frame. The top light hole is right over the frame. It's a good thing the dash is covered. I will reposition the hole and try to fill in the extra hole before I cover the dash.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60156&d=1477490014

[Gene]

Yesterday I installed the driver seat using the adjustable seat track. I mounted the tracks to the floor according to the installation instructions. When I went to put the seat on the tracks I had a hard time getting the hole alignment right. I found that I had to remove the racks and align everything on the bench. Then tighten all seat mounting bolts in the track with it on the bench. I then reinstalled the track on the floor and was able to get the seat mounted on the track.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60160&d=1477492204

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60161&d=1477492219

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60162&d=1477492228

[Gene]

On Saturday I stated the engine in the car. I had a fuel leak from a fuel return line that I didn't completely tighten. I also had a coolant leak from from the radiator drain plug. To stop the drain plug leak, I used a rubber freeze plug in the radiator cap spout.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60431&d=1478216335

With those leaks fixed, I restarted the engine and let it run till the thermostat opened. As soon as it opened, a new coolant leak showed up. This one was from the lower radiator hose. After retightening the fittings, the leak returned as soon as the thermostat opened. I decided that the corrugated steel hose was the cause of the problem. I replaced it with a rubber lower radiator hose that I made from a modified hose and the silicone reducing hoses I used with the corrugated hose. That solved that problem.

When I drove the go cart up the block, I noticed a brake drag. Investigating that problem identified two problems. I had left a front caliper bolt loose. I also found that the rear driver side caliper wasn't shimmed properly. With the wheel on but not fully tightened, there was no interference. But when the wheel was fully tightened the caliper rubbed on the rotor. After re-shimming the caliper the problem was solved.

Finally the go cart was ready to go.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60429&d=1478214977

I took it for a drive to see a couple of friends. Then my neighbor who has been helpful throughout the build wanted a ride. The car runs really well. The stereo sounds great. However, the ride is a little bumpy. I suspect that the tires which sat on the donor car for 10 years with out being moved are no longer round. I will take the new Halibrand replica wheels from FFR and get new tires to see if that reduces the bumpy ride.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60430&d=1478214988

[Gene]

I put new tires on the Halibrand wheels and took it for another ride. Amazing how much smoother the ride is with round wheels. I have put 12 miles on the go kart driving around the neighborhood.

With no leaks and round tires. It was time to pull the dash off and cover it with vinyl. A little M3 90 spray adhesive and it was done. When cutting out the gage holes, I cut the holes 1/8 inch smaller than the opening and the gages all fit fine.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61111&d=1479526426

I purchased additional dash support brackets from Breeze and used them to support the audio crossovers, additional USB and 12 volt ports. I also installed the heater outlets.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61110&d=1479526414

I've reinstalled the steering wheel and will take it for a final check ride tomorrow.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61133&d=1479604224

I think I am ready to get the front end aligned. Does anyone know a good shop in South Orange County CA. that is familiar with setting up the front end on an FFR roadster?

Thanks.

[Gene]

Today I visited an alignment shop that David Hodgkins recommended. They said to wait for the front end alignment until I had the body on and complete. They explained that the additional weight will affect the alignment. So I will wait for the alignment.
I am continuing to do little jobs. I installed the shifter hole cover today.

[edwardb]

Today I visited an alignment shop that David Hodgkins recommended. They said to wait for the front end alignment until I had the body on and complete. They explained that the additional weight will affect the alignment. So I will wait for the alignment.
I am continuing to do little jobs. I installed the shifter hole cover today.

Well, not exactly... The added weight of the body will affect the ride height. That may affect the alignment. But if the ride height is adjusted back to what it was when the alignment was done, the alignment will be the same. It's a big advantage IMO to do the alignment with the body off. Everything is way easier to work on. Especially the first time when a lot of back and forth may be required to get everything dialed in. Not sure you received the best advice there.

[Gene]

Edward,
Thanks for the feedback. I ask some of my hot rod friends for names of other shops to talk to.

[Gene]

I discovered another challenge today. By adding the front stereo speakers and the crossover boxes, I've made it difficult to get to the back of the fuel gauge and clock.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61266&d=1479866574

Both instruments use a gauge programing button.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61271&d=1479867207

It probably isn't important on the fuel gauge but I will need to adjust the clock from time to time. I will need to use the programing button for that.
Simple solution. I went to Speed Hut (FFR's gauge supplier) and ordered two more buttons. At $8.75 each it is cheap compared to the extra work to move the button from the speedometer to the other gauges.

[Gene]

I added the additional gauge programing buttons. They are hidden under the dash board but are accessible.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61569&d=1480625567

[Gene]

Last weekend I talked to several people who are experienced at front end alignment. They all said that I should absolutely wait till the body is finished before getting the front end aligned. So I will go ahead and put the body on soon.

[Gene]

I installed the covers for the fuel pump and the fuel level sending units. I used Rivet nuts so I could get to them in the future if needed.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61567&d=1480625467

I also used rivet nuts to install the top covers for the driver side foot box. I don't think I will be able to get at the screws on the large cover after the body is on, but I felt that if I ever need to get it off to access the master cylinders it would be better to make it removable.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61572&d=1480626476

[Gene]

Yesterday my son came over and we put the body on the car.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61717&d=1480951873

Unfortunately, I didn't realize that you couldn't get the quick jack bolts in with the nuts on the outside without dropping the gas tank. So, we dropped the tank and opened the fuel pump and sender covers to get the quick jack bolts in place.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61718&d=1480951884

[Gene]

Today I loaded the car onto a trailer and headed to Jeff Miller's for body work and paint. I've seen other cars he has done and was very impressed.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61924&d=1481857626

While I was there, Jeff removed the body and trimmed the dash and rear deck to make it a better fit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61929&d=1481858361

He then put the body back on and fit the doors, which involved adding and removing material to get the right fit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61925&d=1481857641

It will be several weeks for him to finish the car. I will have to remember how to play golf again.

[Straversi]

Congratulations and good luck with the golf game. I don't know of any good golf swing forums but there are always plenty of guys on the range that think their swing tips are valuable.
Can't wait to see it after paint.
-Steve

[Gene]

When I took the body to Jeff Miller, He pointed out that the seat positions would have to be moved. On the driver side, I followed the seat track instructions exactly. On the passenger side. I matched the position for the driver side even though I didn't use the adjustable seat track. Apparently the instructions are incorrect. I talked to Dave Smith about it at the Grand National Roadster Show. He apologized and said he would talk to his people about updating the instructions.

[Gene]

While Jeff has the body, I went to work to fix the seat alignment. The locations for the new holes would have required drilling into or close to weld locations. Rather than add these extra holes, I got 1" x 3" x 1/8" aluminum plates and mounted them to the original holes. I ran new mounting bolts up through the plates to locate the seats and seat tracks.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64168&d=1487430611

Then mounted the seat track.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64167&d=1487430600

The new seat position leaves more room for the door to close.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64169&d=1487430622

[Gene]

Once the seat location was fixed, I installed the carpet. However, since I plan to drive on long road trips, I had to have cup holders. The problem with the cup holders was that they interfered with the shift handle. I solved that problem by switching to a shorted, more vertical shift handle. It feels good and shortens the throw on shifts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64171&d=1487430789

[Gene]

The last thing to do before I got the body back was to cover the truck area. I decided to use the polymat material that several people on the forum recommended. It was easy to work with and I think it looks good.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64166&d=1487430364

Now if it ever stops raining here in southern California, I will play some golf while I wait for Jeff to finish the paint.

[RickP]

Looking good Gene. I'm sure your feeling the excitement if the final product.

[Gene]

I have been hearing an intermittent noise that sounds like it's coming from the engine area. At first I thought it was air in the power steering pump. However, when I got a shorter belt and ran the engine without the power steering pump, the noise still came back at times. Today, I ran the car and and listened trying to find the source. Whenever the noise appeared, I pushed on the driver side side pipes using some welding gloves. Each time, when I pushed on the side pipe, the noise went away.

Has anyone ever heard of something like this?

I will be playing around with the exhaust to try to fix it, but if anyone has any ideas, I sure could use the help.

Thanks

[Gene]

Well I found the cause of the noise. It sounded like marbles rolling around in a tin can. I was afraid it was serious. It wasn't. Just a loose O2 plug in the J pipe. Tightened its up and the noise is gone. Amazing that something like a loose plug can be amplified through the exhaust system and sound so serious.

I talked to Jeff Miller last week and he said he should be finished painting my body next week. I can't wait.

[wareaglescott]

Wow that is interesting the O2 plug was causing that. Its weird how sound gets amplified at times and makes it so hard to determine the source. Glad you figured it out.

Looking forward to seeing some paint pictures. Do you have any in progress pics to post?

[Gene]

This weekend I took my 35 Ford to the Goodguy’s meet at Del Mar. While I was there I had a chance to talk with the guys from Wilwood. They explained the basics of the balance bar and how it should be adjusted for a Factory Five Roadster.

When I put my pedal box together I didn’t understand the balance bar and how it should be set up. I had both master cylinders threaded into the balance bar the same distance. The Wilwood guys gave me a step by step procedure for an initial setup for the balance bar.

1) Center the cross shaft in the balance bar and thread both clevises in till they touch the pedal.
2) Back out each clevis 4 turns. This will provide 3/16 gap on each side of the pedal.
3) Thread the clevis onto the front master cylinder 4 turns.
4) Thread the clevis onto the rear master cylinder 8 turns.

The finished setup will work like this.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65911&d=1491233067

This is easy to do when you are putting the pedal box together and don’t have the driver side foot box finished. Unfortunately, I didn’t learn this until two days before I’m scheduled to put the body on for final assembly.

When I put my driver side foot box together, even though I knew I wouldn’t be able to get at the screws with the body on, I used rivnuts to assemble all the aluminum panels on the top to the foot box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65910&d=1491232885

I was able to open up the whole foot box and get at the master cylinders, balance bar and clevises much easier than trying to get at them through the smaller top panel only.

The next challenge was to turn the master cylinder rods in the clevises without disconnecting the brake lines. There are no flats on the rods and the boot makes it difficult to turn. However, with a little dishwashing soap on the boot and a vice grip pliers with plastic tubing on the tips to protect the threads, I was able to get the job done.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65908&d=1491232865

Wilwood also recommended that when bleeding the brakes you use three people and bleed both the front and rear calipers at the same time for each side. I had a couple of friends over and we did re-bleed the brakes using their technique, but we didn’t get air from any of the calipers.

Finally we took the go-kart out to a deserted street in an Industrial park and did some brake tests. I took it up to 20 mph, 30 mph and 40 mph and did panic stops at each speed. In each case it stopped quickly and in a straight line without holding the steering wheel.

Tomorrow I will go to Jeff Miller’s and get my body on. Looks like I am finally almost done.

[Gene]

Spent the day at Jeff's today. What he accomplished in one day, it would have taken me three weeks working 8 hrs a day. He adjusted the door latches, put on the body, doors, hood and trunk. Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to take many pictures as he assembled things. I didn't get home till almost dark so I haven't taken many pictures of the finished product but here is one part way through the assembly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66025&d=1491365473

I am happy to report that both my 35 Ford and the roadster both fit in the garage. I was a little worried about that.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66026&d=1491365492

Thursday I should be able to post some pictures of the painted body in the sun. I will admit that I was worried that my color choices wouldn't look as good as I hoped. I had nothing to worry about. I think it looks pretty good, especially in the sun.

[KDubU]

She looks fantastic! What are the colours if you don't mind sharing?

[carlewms]

Gene,

Congratulations ... looks great! I think the color choices are really neat BTW.

Carl

[Gene]

Thanks for the comments guys.

The body color is PPG 5096 Toreador Red. I chose Ford R3-7356 for the stripe, but Jeff pointed out that that was a three stage paint. He didn't recommend mixing a three stage and two stage paint. He picked a two stage that matched the ford color almost exactly.

[wareaglescott]

Looks great Gene! Cant wait to see some more pictures.
Throw in one of the 35 if you don't mind. Would love to get a better look at that one!!

[Gene]

As promised, here are some more pictures of my newly painted car.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66081&d=1491439519

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66069&d=1491438965

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66072&d=1491439007

[Gene]

And here are some more.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66073&d=1491439021

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66074&d=1491439035

[Vette1972]

Really nice colors! Congrats!

[Gene]

And per wareaglescott's request here are some pictures of the 35 Ford.

One at Bonneville
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66076&d=1491439061

One at Redwood National Park

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66080&d=1491439115

And one in Wisconsin on the way to the EAA convention in Oshkosh.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66083&d=1491441501

We do put a lot of miles on that car and I expect to put even more on the new car.

[wareaglescott]

Two nice looking rides!

[Gene]

I ran into a slight glitch when I went to put the radiator floor aluminum in. The aluminum piece was several inches too short.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66454&d=1492379691

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66453&d=1492379670

I talked to FFR and they said the 94 Mustang radiator I used was shorter than the others they designed around.
Fortunately, I have a friend who owns a sheet metal shop. I gave him a template and he made me a new piece. He made it from dark grey anodized aluminum. I think it looks pretty good.

This is the piece with the protective plastic still on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66451&d=1492379636

This is the new part in place.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66452&d=1492379648

I will also need to make some changes to the side pieces and will paint them black.

[Gene]

Because I plan to drive this car a lot, I decided to go with two outside mirrors. In order to be able to see both mirrors, they have to be forward and in line with the front of the windshield.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67212&d=1493843445

The problem with that is that it's hard to get at the bolts on the drivers side. The bolts that come with the mirrors are too short to get through the body and driver side foot box. I purchased some M5 x .8 x 70 and 80 mm bolts that would reach through to the mirror. But with the fuse box in the way, it was very difficult to reach the bolts through and hold them in place long enough to get them into the mirror. My solution was to feed a 12 gage wire through the holes in the body and foot box, then heat shrink the wire to the bolt.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67213&d=1493843459

It was easy to pull the wire and bolt back up through the holes, and hold one in place while bringing the other up through the holes. then using a flexible attachment to a screw driver, bolt the mirror on.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67217&d=1493845009

[Gene]

Once the mirrors were on, I couldn't resist driving up to Factory Five at Huntington Beach. I still have to adjust the ride height, align the front end and headlights and install backup lights. Oh yea, and get through the CHP, BAR and DMV registration process.
It was a beautiful day with lots of beautiful Factory Five cars.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67215&d=1493843500

[wareaglescott]

Love the ingenuity with the bolts for the mirror. Sharp thinking. Car is looking great.

[Gene]

While I waited for my appointment with the CHP to get a VIN signed to the roadster, I added back up lights. I decided to attach two 12 inch LED light strips just below the body. I attached 3 X 1 x 1/8 angle brackets with the 3 inch leg riveted to the bottom of the 3/4 inch square tube at the rear of the trunk. I attached the two 12 X 1 X 1/8th flats to the angle brackets with four 1 X 1/8th flats. Then added the adhesive backed LED strips to the 12 inch flats.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68483&d=1496492594

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68696&d=1496798655

[Gene]

I took the roadster to an alignment shop that was recommended by several friends. I was told that they were experts on Cobras. When I dropped it off they didn't ask for the the recommended settings. Later I called and asked what settings they used. They said 3 degrees for caster. I explained that FFR recommends 7 degrees for power steering cars. They said they couldn't change it that day and I would have to bring it back another day to get it changed to 7 degrees. I reluctantly agreed and picked up the car.

On the way home I noticed that the suspension was bone jarring tight. When I got home I also noticed that the gap between the right tire and fender was about 1 inch. The gap between the left fender and the tire was nearly 3 inches. I called back and complained and they said they would fix it when I brought the car back next week. I told them I wouldn't wait.

Talking to FFR they said that cranking the pan hard bar will not really effect the rear end alignment. The data from the alignment shop showed little difference in angle before and after they worked on it. They were just getting the front and rear wheels in line with each other.

I jacked the car up and started to adjust the pan hard bar to get the distance between the tires and the fenders closer together. As I cranked it back in the left wheel suddenly dropped. As I continued to crank the bar in, it dropped again. They had cranked the pan hard bar out so much that it had jammed against the left shock absorber. That explained the rough ride.

I will take it back to get the caster adjusted but I will never go back there again after that.

[wareaglescott]

Wow glad you caught that.
If it were me I think I'd stand there and watch them next time.
That is one aspect of these cars that is a challenge. I find it very difficult to find people to work on it that I avtuallly trust and will do quality work!!

[Gene]

Today I finished the California DMV process and got my new plates. I am street legal and ready to go. I will post an overly detailed report on the whole process tomorrow on the thread "More on California registration process".

[rx7922]

Today I finished the California DMV process and got my new plates. I am street legal and ready to go. I will post an overly detailed report on the whole process tomorrow on the thread "More on California registration process".

congrats!! where in cali do you live?

[Gene]

I live in Orange County.

[Gene]

My throwout bearing has made noise since the first time I started the car. Because it looked like so much work to change, I decided to wait till it failed to fix it. Well, after about 5,000 miles it failed. I pulled it out and took it to McLeod to see what I did wrong to make it fail. They said it was nothing I did and they repaired it at no cost.

In order to get the throwout bearing out, I had to pull the trans. Since it was out, I called Tremec and asked if the 3 drop per day leak between the main case and the extension housing was covered under warranty. They said it was but that I would have to ship it back to Michigan for them to repair it. I did and when they got it, they said since it was modified it wasn't covered under warranty. The modification they referred to was the removal of the unused mounting boss described in the FFR manual. I asked if the modification caused the leak and they agreed that it didn't and resealed the trans under warranty.

Now that the trans is back, I have to readjust the clutch pedal travel, reinstall the throwout bearing, adjust the bearing air gap and reinstall the trans.
First was the clutch pedal adjustment. I hooked up the lines to the throwout bearing before installing it. I measured the dimension from the back face to the bearing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80975&d=1518729228

Then I depressed the pedal and measured the amount of bearing travel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80976&d=1518729242

McLeod recommends maximum travel of 0.500 inches with 0.440 inches required for full clutch function. My travel on the first measurement was only about 0.375 inches, so I rotated the rod on the clutch master cylinder clockwise to increase the bearing travel. After a few iterations, I got the travel to 0.497 inches.

Next I will follow McLeod instructions to measure and adjust the bearing clearance, and reinstall the trans.