View Full Version : hood hinge
chopthebass
12-02-2015, 11:35 PM
I am trying to assemble the hood hinge and the washers don't pass over the black socket headed bolt with the widened shank. The pic here shows the spring washer on, and the manual says the washer goes on, then the nut. Are they the wrong washers? Are they meant to pass over the wide part of the bolt?
http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh562/cobra427427/Cobra%20Build/IMG_4042_zpssl1ioiv4.jpg (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/cobra427427/media/Cobra%20Build/IMG_4042_zpssl1ioiv4.jpg.html)
j.miller
12-03-2015, 06:13 AM
I'm not a fan of the wave washers. They leave a little to much play in hinge. If you start with a 3/8 washer on the shoulder bolt, put it through the assy. followed by another 3/8 washer and 5/16 nut you can get things to work without any slop. If there is a trick, it is getting the second washer centered over the shoulder when you tighten the nut. I snug them up and then back them off an 1/8 of a turn (roughly) for freedom of motion without binding...da Bat
chopthebass
12-03-2015, 09:07 AM
Thanks! So are the washers wrong, and should they fit over the shoulder?
Jeff Kleiner
12-03-2015, 10:20 AM
The flat washer will be a snug fit on the shoulder of the bolt. Like Miller I don't care for or use the wave washers.
Jeff
chopthebass
12-03-2015, 11:16 AM
Thanks Jeff. But if I assemble like in my photo, and snug up the washer I am holding against the shoulder, then the black piece closest in the pic will just move and be way too sloppy. I like the idea of not using the wave washers and close the gap as J.Miller suggested.
skullandbones
12-03-2015, 12:05 PM
X2 on the changes that FFR made with the washers. I have only done the MKIII version but what I found was with use of some varying sized washers you can get the "slope" out of the hinges without the use of the wave washers. It takes a couple of assembly and disassembly and reassembly efforts (for me at least) but eventually it had the right tension and still moved freely. I have more issues with the hydraulics over time. I finally replaced one cylinder with a straight rod that I insert into the old hydraulic cylinder attachment at the hood. In effect, I created a prop rod without installing one per se. Maybe others don't have failing hydraulic cylinders but I wasn't so lucky.
Good luck,
WEK.
chopthebass
12-03-2015, 12:47 PM
I wish FFR would address all these little issues to make the car more buildable without having to modify or change stuff. It's easier for most of you guys but for me (with a brain cell count in the single digits) it can be a challenge.
j.miller
12-05-2015, 09:38 AM
I would like to qualify something...Early MK4's had steel hinge arms that are thinner then the aluminum. The fact that you have "wave washers" lets me know you have the later version......soooo, for the later{aluminum arms) you start by placing a 3/8's washer over the shoulder bolt (there used to be an abundance of 3/8's zink washers in the kit but the later kits have less so you my have to buy 16) You then put the bolt through the hinge pieces leaving just a sliver of shoulder coming through the backside, place another 3/8's washer over the bolt and when you tighten make sure it is centered on the shoulder to take up the space ( sometimes it takes a few trys to get it centered) snug it and back it off a bit, make sure the hinge moves freely with minimal of slop before moving on....you can spray a little white lithium grease or (the one I like) Tri Flow on the joints.........now, if you have the earlier version with steel hinge arms you do the same but you put the washer with the big hole (spacer) on before the final 3/8s washer......now, all that being said,,,,,test fit the 3/8's washers over the shoulder bolt before you start. I have found that roughly out of 100 washers, 10-15 are a touch small and won't slide over the shoulder.....save the frustration and check them first....good luck..da Bat.......ps, Chop, I'm kinda in the same boat. I have plenty of brain cells but can only get a handful to fire at the same time....the rest of them are out looking for a paper bag and a can of spray paint...."gold" if they can find it....whatever!
2FAST4U
12-05-2015, 11:40 AM
They should simplify the hinge assembly and use a form found on original cars. Less parts and easier to assemble and adjust
Jeff Kleiner
12-05-2015, 03:39 PM
They should simplify the hinge assembly and use a form found on original cars. Less parts and easier to assemble and adjust
Actually they did offer a more original hoop style on the Mk1 and early Mk2s; they required lots of bending and fiberglass bonding to get right and most builders did a lot of swearing at them. While this scissor type does not look original the reality is that they are not difficult to assemble, adjust easily and work well.
Jeff
2FAST4U
12-05-2015, 04:37 PM
Jeff
Mine is extremely simple. It has a steel hoop sandwiched in between the inner and outer hood pieces. In the front corners are two .120 steel plates welded to the hoop. 1/4-20 bolts are welded to the .120 plate and go through the fiberglass. The hood hinge simply bolts to the 1/4-20 studs. No bonding, glassing or bending
Jeff Kleiner
12-05-2015, 05:06 PM
Am I misremembering Bill? I thought you had to bend the round stock to fit the relief in the hood, have the tight radius corners made and then will have Miller glass it between the top and bottom skins :confused:
Jeff
j.miller
12-05-2015, 06:02 PM
My personal preference is the FFR hinge...yes, it doesn't look original but the hood opens up and backwards and into the hood opening. The "original style" opens over the nose. I remember it was really tough to get them to open without raking the lip of the body. Several changes would have to be made to get good clearance and range of motion out of the old style biggest being moving the radiator upper support back so you have more then a fraction of a sweet spot for the hinge arm to travel........besides, if it doesn't have a BB427 under the hood then the hinge looking original is moo point in my book....just sayin...da Bat
2FAST4U
12-05-2015, 06:30 PM
Am I misremembering Bill? I thought you had to bend the round stock to fit the relief in the hood, have the tight radius corners made and then will have Miller glass it between the top and bottom skins :confused:
Jeff
No, you're correct. Mine is a repop of an original by Bruce
chopthebass
12-06-2015, 12:10 PM
The hinge assembles great once I found washers that slide over the shoulders. I also put one on the bolt before pushing through bracket. Now there's no slop and moves real nice.
j.miller
12-06-2015, 03:07 PM
That's the ticket....well done!!!!