Redfogo's 818C build

[redfogo]

Well today was the day it's finally here! I plan to be documenting both on in this thread as well as on my website. Currently finishing up the site, but I am hoping to provide an 818 resource site so that content is a little bit quicker to find vs having to search high and low on the forums :). Basically a quick help guide and resource that can lead back to established posts between here and other Subaru forums. Not too many pictures yet, I have started off the whole day buy counting all the items in the boxes. I learned that FF does not label every aluminum piece this made for a longer than expected checklist time...

If anyone is looking for more detailed pictures of the coupe just let me know I'm glad to take them before the body comes off, and the fun begins!

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[TouchStone]

Good Luck! Have Fun

[Flamshackle]

Well today was the day it's finally here! I plan to be documenting both on in this thread as well as on my website. Currently finishing up the site, but I am hoping to provide an 818 resource site so that content is a little bit quicker to find vs having to search high and low on the forums :). Basically a quick help guide and resource that can lead back to established posts between here and other Subaru forums. Not too many pictures yet, I have started off the whole day buy counting all the items in the boxes. I learned that FF does not label every aluminum piece this made for a longer than expected checklist time... If anyone is looking for more detailed pictures of the coupe just let me know I'm glad to take them before the body comes off, and the fun begins!476314763247633

exciting! cant wait to see the progress ;)

[Ken Allwine]

Awesome! Looking forward to following your process. Share your website URL when it's ready!

[SnyderJD]

Have you started your inventory yet? With not a lot of spare room in my garage, inventory is not the most fun thing to do... missing some pieces out of the boxes I have been able to get through, biggest struggle is trying to determine what some of the custom parts are.

[redfogo]

Yes I have inventory is 90% complete, I was missing an inventory sheet on box 9 which looks to have all the coupe stuff like the locks and stuff. So waiting on FF to get back to me on that one.... They said they can't get the sheet for a few days I guess. Outside of that yes inventory is complete missing a few things but waiting tell I have box 9 checked over before I talk about what's all missing. I noticed they include some 818C parts that they dont cover on the sheet which was a bit disappointing. All I can do is hope I have them all.

Also the manual sent was the 818S manual with no 818C appendix so no way to look in that for details. No way to even tell what you do for the 818C additions. I did inventory all in my basement so I could keep things out of the garage. Shoot me an email and I will gladly take pictures of whatever you need so I can help you identify.

[SnyderJD]

Red, Ill let you know what I am missing and if you want I can look and take photos of what you think you might be missing and swap back and forth... I might actually photograph every part and build a parts inventory. at least for stuff not labeled at all.

[RetroRacing]

We have a TON of extra parts available (all the aluminum for example, shift cables, all the corregated water pipe, joints for same, etc) so just let us know

[redfogo]

Red, Ill let you know what I am missing and if you want I can look and take photos of what you think you might be missing and swap back and forth... I might actually photograph every part and build a parts inventory. at least for stuff not labeled at all.

If you do inventory everything let me know I would love to add it as a resource for everyone on my site.

[redfogo]

Well the build has started and my list of parts missing has been sent of the FF.. I have got a lot done including my website www.redfogo.com
Please let me know if you would like to add content, see something that needs changed, or have any feedback, I am trying to provide a resource for everyone. :D

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:
I took off last Thursday and Friday from work and went to town all week/weekend long. After a long week all panels are placed in the basement and the build has started.

Summery
-Engine is in.
-Made a custom modification to the OEM alternator mount so that its strong and light :).
-Transmission and clutch is in.
-Front suspension is almost finished need to replace wheel bearings.
-New guides added to my site
-Front suspension
-Engine
-Drivetrain
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[redfogo]

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[flynntuna]

Your website is a fantastic idea! :cool: Will you be adding links to video tutorials like the headlight install? (I think it was Bob who made it)

[milkman dan]

Thanks for putting this all together. The website looks great.

I am especially looking forward to following your build because down the road I'm looking at an EJ207v7 coupe build.

Good luck!

[redfogo]

Your website is a fantastic idea! :cool: Will you be adding links to video tutorials like the headlight install? (I think it was Bob who made it)

I can do that for sure! Its a coupe so headlight will be "easier install" so they say. I plan to document how the new lights install when I hit that point. ATM I don't even have them yet. I will add a helpful links tab feel free to inform me of any other link you might like. Trying to help everyone from having to dig through the search function the best I can.

Links I will add to helpful links tab:
-Old style headlight install.
-New style when its here.
-Single blade wiper.
-Coolant neck mod
-Links to wiring guides.
-I will be wiring up using an infinity box. It will be a full every wire documented style guide :D.

[TX-Lou]

Great Job! Thank you for doing this!

[Ken Allwine]

This is great! Your resource will be extremely helpful. Thank you!

[Turboguy]

So the coupe chassis is different from the 818S ? I noticed the single "roll hoop" as opposed to the twin bumps that the 818S has, and certainly like that. The rear stays t-ing in so far below the top of the bar is a bit puzzling though.


Question: Does anyone know if the support stays that butt into the "sides" of the roll hoop are close enough to the top/corner to meet most various race sanctioning body's rules ?

[TouchStone]

I noticed the single "roll hoop" as opposed to the twin bumps that the 818S has, and certainly like that.

The roll bar didn't change. At least mine looks the same.

[Turboguy]

My bad - I remembered the 818S having a hoop behind each seat, but that dates back to the renderings they posted prior to production.

[wleehendrick]

My bad - I remembered the 818S having a hoop behind each seat, but that dates back to the renderings they posted prior to production.

A couple builders have modified their roll bar into dual hoops... that might what you were thinking, but the S and Coupe frames both have a single straight bar.

[redfogo]

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:
Thanksgiving took up a little more time then I planned so not a lot finished up last week. However, I had the joy of installing my floor my arms are a little tired after that one. I completely sealed the floor to help provide a good seal to stop water and air from getting in. Documented up and finished fitting the rear links and arms. I used aftermarket TCS and godspeed parts all required some modification. Website has been updated with helpful links page feel free to give more suggestions.

Summery
-Rear links and arms installed.
-Floor installed
-Updated site with 50% complete rear suspension and helpful links tabs.

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[SnyderJD]

you have me feeling very lazy now! I still have not finished inventory, but I did finish my finals Sunday night and now have winter break until beginning of January, so i have a lot of catching up to do. the blog and site look great! out of curiosity how are you storing your glass for now? Most of my inventoried boxes are going in over head storage. and building some shelves to hold body pieces until needed.

[Samiam1017]

what center console is that ? shifter location looks pretty far forward or is it in a nice spot?

[redfogo]

you have me feeling very lazy now! I still have not finished inventory, but I did finish my finals Sunday night and now have winter break until beginning of January, so i have a lot of catching up to do. the blog and site look great! out of curiosity how are you storing your glass for now? Most of my inventoried boxes are going in over head storage. and building some shelves to hold body pieces until needed.

The only glass I have is the windshield, and I just placed that in one of the long boxes FFR sent. I plan to keep all the other glass in the boxes they ship out in once FFR sends it over. I converted my basement into a storage facility lol. So my basement is essentially useless tell my car is built. The parts take up one room and the the top take up the rest of the usable space in the main room of the basement.

[07FIREBLADE]

Could you post pictures of the door liners, I saw the part list for the new hardtop and they come with new door cards. Also wondering what the rear hinges look like for the glass. Wondering if mechies hinges would work for the S or new hinges need to be designed.

[Coolspot]

Nice looking website!,

what console is that?

[redfogo]

Could you post pictures of the door liners, I saw the part list for the new hardtop and they come with new door cards. Also wondering what the rear hinges look like for the glass. Wondering if mechies hinges would work for the S or new hinges need to be designed.

Sadly I don't have the liners or the hinges I will be sure to post them when FFR sends though though now idea when that will be though.

[redfogo]

Nice looking website!,

what console is that?

Center console is out of an FR-S it looks like it will fit perfect I won't know for sure tell I start the interior! I will be using sparco EVO seats so I will have a little more clearance them OEM

[redfogo]

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:
Holidays have been a bit of a busy away from the car! Hoping to get back on schedule after the new year. As always any new tips or tricks I'm missing on my site let me know :D

I did however get a few things done:

Summery
-Front end is fully assembled minus front sway bar I’m still deciding if I want to install one or not.
-Axles are assembled, I had a lot of trouble until I found the hose clamp tip! Added to my useful link section.
-Floor pan had to be removed. I jumped the gun and forgot I still needed to weld in seat brackets and harness mounts.
-Notice my intake pipe had a rip in the section that clamps onto the turbo. Removed the old hose in preparation for when my new hose arrives. I found that cutting out the old one was far more easy versus trying to take it out as one
-Brake master cylinder has been installed, I recommend using longer bolts for install. I used 2 6mm cap screws that were a bit longer then FFRs procided capFactory five hardware seems far to short anyone else have this issue?
-Updated my site site

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[redfogo]

Currently trying to solve all the mounting points for a 6 point harness. So far this is where I am at, I probably got a little weld happy and have a slightly larger weld. But rather have my base covered then not.

Has anyone noticed that the submarine/crotch belt is not evenly mounted if you weld within the X part of the frame under the seat. It seems that the seat are more to the left of the center of X. So when you install your sub belts one side is going to be longer then the other. I can't find any regulation against this. But I'm not sure if thats safe or not. Has anyone had any experience with this or noticed it?
Here is an image from under the seat
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Here is how I welded everything up so far.
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[Hindsight]

Looking good! I have noticed the same thing about the X-brace. I think it's because the X brace goes up against the side of the frame on the outside, but on the inside, it goes PAST the center tunnel tubes, while the seat can't go past. This means the center of the X is not in the center of where the seat can be located. Don't worry about it.... no inspector is going to care about things being centered (though I do not have a lot of experience with inspection, to be honest, but I can't imagine anyone caring.... they are just going to care if it's welded and what its welded to).

[redfogo]

I talked with Schroth this morning they were extremely helpful! They said its okay to have the offset since it is not very drastic they said so long as its a few inches your fine. Just make sure you have correct spacing between the two.

They did recommended not to wrap the belts around the frame square bar, they said the load of force can't be evenly dispersed like it can be on a rounded tube. They said you could possibly get away with it since its a large tube on the frame, but its not ideal. So I will just be welding in some mounts onto the frame.

[07FIREBLADE]

Hey Redfogo,

Quick question for you would you be able to measure your front radiator subframe and give me the locations of the brackets for the new front end. Since your not making major frame changes like Lance Corsi is with his coupe build. Are the brackets welded in place on the frame for the upper and lower fender mounts. Im retrofitting my S to make it into C but ffr wont have a manual or revisions for a few weeks. The engineers are wrapping up the Power Nation Coupe build out in Tennessee right now.

Thanks
-Robert

[redfogo]

Hey Redfogo,

Quick question for you would you be able to measure your front radiator subframe and give me the locations of the brackets for the new front end. Since your not making major frame changes like Lance Corsi is with his coupe build. Are the brackets welded in place on the frame for the upper and lower fender mounts. Im retrofitting my S to make it into C but ffr wont have a manual or revisions for a few weeks. The engineers are wrapping up the Power Nation Coupe build out in Tennessee right now.

Thanks
-Robert

Yeah I sure can currently out of town for work but I will do my best to get things over to you at the end of the weekend.

[07FIREBLADE]

Thanks a bunch. Im currently disassembling my old front and just mocking things up. Trying to guess off of old pics but measurements would definetly help. I got the hinges for the hatch and the new door liners. The door liners look to be exactly the same but they are vinyl covered. Now I need to cover my dash or order just a vinyl covered dash to match the new liners. Hinges attach to the top of the roll bar. I need to play with the configuration to get the right combination to get them working. Seems pretty straightforward.

[lance corsi]

Sadly I don't have the liners or the hinges I will be sure to post them when FFR sends though though now idea when that will be though.

You will be using hinges from your donor car! Wait no longer!

[07FIREBLADE]

The stock hindges are for the S. I've gotten the new hindges already just need to play with the orientation to figure out how it all goes together. No instructions but no glass yet so who cares. I will post up some pics of anyone wants.

[AZPete]

Pictures? Yes, yes. Me, and others, are waiting for our coupe upgrade kits so like kids at Christmas we're eager to see what's under the tree.

[07FIREBLADE]

I will get some more up tonight or tomorrow when I get a chance. Anything specific you may want pics of

[lance corsi]

The stock hindges are for the S. I've gotten the new hindges already just need to play with the orientation to figure out how it all goes together. No instructions but no glass yet so who cares. I will post up some pics of anyone wants.

Here's what I did: use rear donor door hinges, put bottom hinge on top, top hinge on bottom. That's what seemed to work for me. I'm not using ant door handles or locks. Door poppers.

[07FIREBLADE]

Lance,

Sorry for the miscommunication. I was referring more about the rear hatch hindge. Got the doors hung long time ago. Have a running road legal car. Just tearing it back apart to do the coupe retrofit. Which poppers are you using in your build though since your going that route. I've found most aftermarket poppers to break over time and not having any handles could make it a bit of a challenge to get the door open.

[lance corsi]

Lance,

Sorry for the miscommunication. I was referring more about the rear hatch hindge. Got the doors hung long time ago. Have a running road legal car. Just tearing it back apart to do the coupe retrofit. Which poppers are you using in your build though since your going that route. I've found most aftermarket poppers to break over time and not having any handles could make it a bit of a challenge to get the door open.

Sorry,should've read more of your thread before blurting out. My poppers are 35 lb solenoids. I'm adding an emergency pull for exactly that reason. I've managed to lock myself out of cars before! I will be using manual door opening handles on the interior of the doors for normal egress.

[Newkitguy]

I can post pics of the doors when I get home if you need it.

[redfogo]

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:

Summery
-Seat Belt mounts & seat mounts have been installed.
-Rear suspension/ is installed and ready to rock.
-Transmission has been converted to 2WD.
-New 2006+ Ej25 oil pan installed with Killer B oil baffle and pickup.

-Updated my site pages with all guides for: Oil system set up, seat and harness belt set up, rear suspension, and 2WD conversion.

As always if you have a guide or tip or something you would like added to the wiki please let me know I will do my best to help!

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[redfogo]

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:

1. Sorry my pictures aren't more fancy getting cought up in the moment of building, I forget to clean up the mess around me :D

Summery
-Seat Belt harness bar fixed and updated!
-Radiator installed.
-Throttle cable slack fixed.
-Master Cylinders,brake/clutch lines, proportion valve are all installed.
-Gas pedal mounted to the aluminum.

-Currently finishing up all the wiring. Planning to release full excel file/guide for making your own wiring harness that can run only the engine and all of its needs. This would be more of standalone wiring system to separate everything not needed to run the engine. Everything else would need to be its own system like an infinity box. Maybe it will help no one, maybe it will help someone! If anyone one has any specific things they would like in the guide I can see what I can do! I just found it to be easier and mess free to cut out all the OEM junk and wire just the Engine/ECU on its own system. All this is granted everything works right! So far looks like I will be in business!

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[redfogo]

For the radiator I found that It work best to trim the OEM pads on the top to be more flush and then bolt the mounting tabs at an angle to get the radiator to sit at a low angle.

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New harness bar mounting holes are much lower now and the harness bar now sets the seat belts at a perfect 0 to negative 5 deg angle. I ended up having to throw out the FFR harness bar. I cut the bar according to the instructions so that it would fit the FFR/OEM mounting holes. After realizing that the bar sat to high the damage was done and the bar just didn’t provide enough thread to be satisfied on my new mounting holes. I upgraded to a 1.25in harness bar since I needed a new one. Bigger bar should provide a little bit more surface area for the belts as well.

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[redfogo]

I ended up mounting the medal straight into the front aluminum panel. I my install a brace for the panel eventually however currently I see no need. If you have a heavy foot though it may be worth it!

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For some reason my throttle cable came without the throttle body end cylinder installed. I thought about calling FFR about it however after thinking about it I found that it was better to have it off this way I could install the cable properly as well as shorten the extra slack on the cable so the throttle would open fully and have no slack in the cable.

I broke the plastic stopper that went into the accelerator pedal when I tried to install it. I have read a few posts where people have broken it just while driving. To fix this problem I used a normal push in plastic tab normally used to mounting body parts like mudflaps etc as the guide. Then I put a nut between the ball and the pedal. This provides a nice strong hold that wont get warn out.

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For the throttle body end I found some DIY cable links at autozone. The kit comes with a few different sizes for different linkage size. All you need to do is feed your FFR cable through the hole cut the extra cable off and use the provided screw to hold the line in place. If your extra paranoid like me just throw some solder on the end of the wire to help hold it in place. The screw should be more then enough though. Set to how you like it I set mine with zero slack so pedal has no play in it. INSTANT POWER!!!!

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[ben1272]

Nice, thanks for the info. I am just about to do mine and this will be helpful.

I am curious how you routed the cable from pedal to the throttle? Also, how did you retain along the way (did you?)

-Ben

[ben1272]

I, for one, am looking forward to your wire harness info. I may pursue the same path and greatly appreciate the insight it will give a subie noob like me! Keep it coming!

-Ben



Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:

1. Sorry my pictures aren't more fancy getting cought up in the moment of building, I forget to clean up the mess around me :D

Summery
-Seat Belt harness bar fixed and updated!
-Radiator installed.
-Throttle cable slack fixed.
-Master Cylinders,brake/clutch lines, proportion valve are all installed.
-Gas pedal mounted to the aluminum.

-Currently finishing up all the wiring. Planning to release full excel file/guide for making your own wiring harness that can run only the engine and all of its needs. This would be more of standalone wiring system to separate everything not needed to run the engine. Everything else would need to be its own system like an infinity box. Maybe it will help no one, maybe it will help someone! If anyone one has any specific things they would like in the guide I can see what I can do! I just found it to be easier and mess free to cut out all the OEM junk and wire just the Engine/ECU on its own system. All this is granted everything works right! So far looks like I will be in business!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m266/redfogo/image8_zpsphroeqjz.jpg (http://s106.photobucket.com/user/redfogo/media/image8_zpsphroeqjz.jpg.html)

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m266/redfogo/image3_zps2tnwhwad.jpeg (http://s106.photobucket.com/user/redfogo/media/image3_zps2tnwhwad.jpeg.html)

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m266/redfogo/image4_zpsl0zl3mql.jpeg (http://s106.photobucket.com/user/redfogo/media/image4_zpsl0zl3mql.jpeg.html)

[redfogo]

Nice, thanks for the info. I am just about to do mine and this will be helpful.

I am curious how you routed the cable from pedal to the throttle? Also, how did you retain along the way (did you?)

-Ben

1. The cable is ran through the FFR hole shown in the instructions. Since mine had no throttle body end on it, it fit right through like the instructions tell you. Planning to go in more detail on my site when I get the chance to update that section.
2. I ran the cable through one of the shifter linkage grommets (Im using the MR2 shifter so those grommet wont be used) .
3. From the grommet it should just go down the center console and out the back and mount onto the OEM throttle cable mount.

If you need pictures or more details let me know and I can get those for you .

[redfogo]

Wiring guide has been made check it out here http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21030-DIY-ODBII-working-standalone-wiring-harness&p=238143#post238143

Full update coming soon been very busy getting all the wiring documented read to rock and roll now!

[Frank818]

I'm late, but I might follow your pedal cable ball solution. Next winter, no time now I have more important builds to do. :) You slotted the nut? Are you using something to prevent it from getting out or the mudflap push-in is enough?

[redfogo]

I'm late, but I might follow your pedal cable ball solution. Next winter, no time now I have more important builds to do. :) You slotted the nut? Are you using something to prevent it from getting out or the mudflap push-in is enough?

No slot I just fed the line through the nut. I was missing the TB end so it was just a endless cable. I put a cable end on after I installed the nut. Nice and secure and can't pop out this way. :D

[Frank818]

You attached a cable end onto a cut cable? Do you have a pic of that?

[redfogo]

You attached a cable end onto a cut cable? Do you have a pic of that?


For the throttle body end I found some DIY cable links at autozone. The kit comes with a few different sizes for different linkage size. All you need to do is feed your FFR cable through the hole cut the extra cable off and use the provided screw to hold the line in place. If your extra paranoid like me just throw some solder on the end of the wire to help hold it in place. The screw should be more then enough though. Set to how you like it, I set mine with zero slack so pedal has no play in it. INSTANT POWER!!!!



I also was able to get my TB to open up 100% doing it this way. I know some guys had issued with it getting open fully because of how much slack FFR had put into the provided line.

[Frank818]

Stupid me, I couldn't see the pic cuz I was at work (blocked), it's just a few posts before on this page. :)

I see what type it is, could have worked when I needed to merge 2 endless cable ends together. But I doubt it's more secure than what I did, I mean it's probably the same, the ends are squeezed, straight.

[redfogo]

Here are a few pics of my harness I used fire proof sleeving for all my wires. Each main connector has its own sleeving so that I could manage the wires better. I find that having a large clump of wires just makes things harder to manage as well as diag if you ever have any problems. All my wires run into the center tunnel so that the ECU and other sensitive parts can be protected from heat and water.

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[redfogo]

Installed a duel catch can set up one for the crank case and one for the heads. I ran a saikou michi can set up really nice construction and I have heard nothing but great reviews on the build quality and the overall design of the can them self.

How it works

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Very affordable as well. http://www.saikoumichi.com/

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I used to provided bracket for install and installed the setup in the corner behind the driver seat.

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Red is for the heads and into the intake pipe the big black sleeved lines are the crank and intake manifold lines.
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[redfogo]

I also made my own intake using 2.5in aluminum pipe. This made for a great hard pipe that wont flex under boost as well as be easy to uninstall. I covered it in heat tape.

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I used a offset coupler to connect the turbo and the hard intake pipe together. The hose clamps are perfectly placed so that the intake is easy to remove unlike the OEM and some after market options. I did delete the BPV inlet since i have an aftermarket blitz BOV installed.

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Intake installed
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[redfogo]

Coolant expansion tank I used some axle brackets I had laying around to extend the tank out

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Fuel lines
I used all SS PTFE line for my fuel set up. They are all pressed/crimped lines. I just can't trust the DIY crimp line. Plus these are tested up to 1500psi.

I bent the OEM fuel hard lines from the engine 90deg very carefully.

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Earls E85 approved 10micron filter

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I did have to do some things to get the fuel filter and level to install right. My notes can be found here http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20178-Fuel-pump-and-level-sender-how-did-anyone-install-them

I made sure to run the lines to the tank so that they would not rub or touch any wire or other line. I also used the 2nd largest fuel pump assembly line as the fuel return and and the smaller one as a vent going to the ground. I don't have much of a fuel smell. But maybe i'm just used to it since many of my cars have run "free" from any emissions canisters

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I have an Ej207 so the heater core line is not very close so I made a hard line to connect the to heater lines together
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[mikeb75]

Build is looking great, fantastic attention to detail!

Quick question/note: did you verify your upper coolant tank holds pressure? The (old) metal ones can develop cracks along the radiator cap flange... ask me how I know :)

[redfogo]

Build is looking great, fantastic attention to detail!

Quick question/note: did you verify your upper coolant tank holds pressure? The (old) metal ones can develop cracks along the radiator cap flange... ask me how I know :)

Yep I did, I pressurized before I put in coolant. No seal issues. It's a JDM STI motor not sure if they are any different or not.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great job Red.
Especially the wiring. I can tell you have many hours into it.
Bob

[redfogo]

I have never been a fan of the OEM intercooler since it sits above the intercooler with no fans and no heat shield to protect it. I am currently making my fan shroud but I will be using 2 7.5in spal puller fans. So about 1000CFM being pulled through the intercooler at all time :D. I am using a 7in thick intercooler core that 20in wide. It fits perfect for a coupe. I made a Heat shield and I rotated my turbo. I have a Vf30 so I had to reseal the turbo housing with RTV after I removed the old gasket.

Heat shield is air ducting covered in Lava wrap.

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Intercooler
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Not much RTV is required to reseal the turbo. I used High temp copper RTV. Clean the surface very well.
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[ssssly]

Make sure you tune that MAF with stock injectors. And if you are running a JDM ECU, you do not want to push more than a couple psi of boost on Nebraska low octane gas. The timing maps are way too advanced.

If you need a hand tuning it once you get it up and running give me a call.

[redfogo]

As I am sure a lot have probably noticed I am not the most orderly builder. My garage is always a mess its my weakness, but I seem to be able to find everything I need when its not put away lol. Anyways here is a video of the car currently running. Not ready to be set down just yet but close :D.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3uzEFdS9VM

I am going to be running a duel exhaust set up so right now all I have is my resonator installed. Once I get my bumper cut up I will start my exhaust build. I enjoy the sound as it is now so I will only be adding in piping no other mufflers and/or cats.

Oh yeah wheels are also on

Wheels are also on :D XXR 530s 17x7 front and 18x8.75 rear and of course my bambi brakes x)

70533

[mikeb75]

Fantastic job on the intercooler! Congrats on the first start.

[Hindsight]

Nice! Big congrats on the first start.

[taco20]

I also made my own intake using 2.5in aluminum pipe. This made for a great hard pipe that wont flex under boost as well as be easy to uninstall. I covered it in heat tape.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m266/redfogo/image22_zpsupimodpd.jpeg (http://s106.photobucket.com/user/redfogo/media/image22_zpsupimodpd.jpeg.html)

I used a offset coupler to connect the turbo and the hard intake pipe together. The hose clamps are perfectly placed so that the intake is easy to remove unlike the OEM and some after market options. I did delete the BPV inlet since i have an aftermarket blitz BOV installed.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m266/redfogo/image9_zpslsd7r0ka.jpeg (http://s106.photobucket.com/user/redfogo/media/image9_zpslsd7r0ka.jpeg.html)

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m266/redfogo/image21_zpszm5cy0pz.jpeg (http://s106.photobucket.com/user/redfogo/media/image21_zpszm5cy0pz.jpeg.html)

Intake installed

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m266/redfogo/image10_zpsi38k5how.jpeg (http://s106.photobucket.com/user/redfogo/media/image10_zpsi38k5how.jpeg.html)

Hey nice intake setup. I did something very similar with mine. Wanted to give you a heads up that the filter location is in a bad spot. I had mine in the same spot and without the body it gets great air but once the body goes on it gets no outside air just hot engine air and makes IAT temps run real hot. Might want to plan on moving it closer to the vent in front of the tire to get some fresh air. Easy to plan ahead now because everything gets tight once the body is on.

[redfogo]

Thanks I will take a look at a better spot after I get my body panels our for testing

[Samiam1017]

who makes the offset coupler you used to make your intake system

[redfogo]

who makes the offset coupler you used to make your intake system

Its a HPS offset coupler 2.25" > 2.5" ID. They are a little pricey($27) but still cheaper then buying a name brand inlet pipe.

http://www.amazon.com/HPS-HTSOR-225-250-BLK-Silicone-Temperature-Reinforced/dp/B00OUVFFQE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

[Frank818]

That sound is amazing!

That IC is THICK!

[redfogo]

That sound is amazing!

That IC is THICK!

Took a while to find the right resonator that gave the right sound. IC is an after market IC for a BMW.

[redfogo]

Upgraded my motor and trans mounts last night with Cusco mounts and its made a significant difference in engine placement and movement. With the oem Mounts the main coolant feed pipe was very close to the frame almost rubbing on it! I could shake the engine left and right with my hands from the transmission mount location!

With the new mounts the whole assembly is rock solid the engine sits up more as well. The OEM mounts seem to let the engine slant down(downward like this--> \) since there is no real front mount. The cuscos seem to be more solid and help hold the wait of the front of the engine evening out so it sites more even(like this --> --). My coolant lines are now further away from the frame and no longer able to come close to rubbing on the frame! yay

The Cusco mounts I'm sure will shake the car a bit more then OEM mounts but still wont be as bad as a solid mount since they still have very very very hard rubber to help a "bit". Since I'm still on block I can't assess the shake just yet.

70537

(Don't worry about the car parts bench you see in the background. Its the post kit car 280z project. The car will need a new paint job so don't worry no nice cars were damaged for this image.)

[Hindsight]

I have those mounts and dont find the vibration to be bad at all. I really like them too.

[redfogo]

I started having high idle issues. I found that my IACV was stuck open. After reading I found this is very common issue with subarus. And I assume since the motor has been sitting for a while the carbon build up just kinda locked things up. I found this guide very helpful. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1704762

[redfogo]

Today I got my sound deadening/ heat shielding installed. I used hush mat as it seemed to be an affordable good quality product and helps with both heat and sound. I put a pad both on the inside of the firewall and on outside of the firewall.

70541

Shifter is using the MR2 shifter I may do some changes with it in the future but for now the current configuration works for how I would like it.

70543

My FR-S center console is starting to fall into place how I want it. Current set up with the car has a nice cockpit feel with the arm rest/ shifter above the waist. This is still a bit ruff I look forward to the finish product when I have it all set up.

70545

[07FIREBLADE]

Where's your ebrake going?

[snowphun]

Nice work with the FRS center console, that should look really sharp.

[redfogo]

Where's your ebrake going?

Not in yet :D. The location in the frs is on the drivers side a little below the shifter. I will test and see if i like that location and if it fits. If that does not work though I think I will run the lever so its on the floor by the bottom of my seat. My 944 has it in this location I dont mind it.

[redfogo]

Went out for the 1st drive! Went good and bad... Good the car runs and drives bad the after market front axle stubs I bought are machined wrong so my wheel bearing comes out. Anyone have extra stubs?

Next up get my wires all tucked away inside and get the interior together before body time.

83512
83513
83514

Awkward video of me not knowing what to do while looking at the camera nice revs though!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxNVSJJILKM

[Frank818]

You are so quick, in Feb you were wiring it up and now you are driving it! Awesome!

[SnyderJD]

Looks great so far. much further along than I am...

[Frank818]

You moded your fuel filler neck? Remove the black sleeve and the alu pipe doesn't seem to have the same shape as mine and doesn't seem to reach the fuel cap opening either.

[redfogo]

You moded your fuel filler neck? Remove the black sleeve and the alu pipe doesn't seem to have the same shape as mine and doesn't seem to reach the fuel cap opening either.

It's a newer style FFR pipe it's not the same as the one in the manual. ATM I just have the upper rubber pipe zip tied onto the aluminum middle pipe. It's just to keep dust and stuff out of the gas tank. I have a feeling I will have to trim a lot off the rubber pipe, but I'm waiting tell I can get the body on. I'm not 100% sure if what they provided will work how I wanted.

[Frank818]

Is it supposed to go upwards towards the engine like that or you just fitted it quickly like that?

[redfogo]

Is it supposed to go upwards towards the engine like that or you just fitted it quickly like that?

Ohh it's just thrown on haha I would assume it's not on correct I just have it facing up so the cap dose not fall out!

[longislandwrx]

Awkward video of me not knowing what to do while looking at the camera nice revs though!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxNVSJJILKM

Bro, do you even Race Wars?

https://youtu.be/sBDEE3_Z-cw?t=48

ps I have stubs, send me a pm.

[redfogo]

Bro, do you even Race Wars?

https://youtu.be/sBDEE3_Z-cw?t=48

ps I have stubs, send me a pm.

Should have kissed at the camera maybe next time! Hahahah

I found some stubs last night we will see if they work! If not you will have a PM on the way!

[Frank818]

Coming back on the filler, once you fit it with the side sail could you show us? If that pipe works sensibly better than the original FFR one I might change mine. I have to put so much force fwd on my pipe to give it the angle to reach the cap through the sail it's unbelievable. An old flaw for a couple hundreds of frame #s...

[redfogo]

Coming back on the filler, once you fit it with the side sail could you show us? If that pipe works sensibly better than the original FFR one I might change mine. I have to put so much force fwd on my pipe to give it the angle to reach the cap through the sail it's unbelievable. An old flaw for a couple hundreds of frame #s...

Here is a picture of the pipe I believe it's on backwards but for know was only way to keep stuff out of the tank. Sorry I'm so late busy weeks away from the 818 :/ 56183

Bunch of zip ties tell things get farther along I just found out my 98 trans won't work so time to swap in a 2014 wrx trans so I might be a few weeks tell I do anything new!

[UnhipPopano]

Frank, Fiberglass does have its limitations. Compared to a metal body it is brittle and brakes rather than bend. If there is stress on the Gas fill pipe with the fiberglass, the fiberglass may crack or elongate the hole to relieve the stress. Forcing the pipe to fit will eventually result in a failure.

[Frank818]

Frank, Fiberglass does have its limitations. Compared to a metal body it is brittle and brakes rather than bend. If there is stress on the Gas fill pipe with the fiberglass, the fiberglass may crack or elongate the hole to relieve the stress. Forcing the pipe to fit will eventually result in a failure.

That is exactly my concern. Which is why after forcing the pipe I will use tie-wraps and other means to keep it steady so the FB will not have to force the pipe. I don't understand Red's rubber extension, it's a long 90-deg I just don't see how it will fit on the fender? It seems to be the same alu pipe I have, just the rubber that is different but I just don't get how this one is going to fit.

[UnhipPopano]

If we are talking about the same image, that was a temporary piece while he was in go cart mode. There is a section of rubber pipe on the bottom and another behind the filler cap. The two pieces allow the pipe in the middle enough room to move. For more flexibility you leave a longer distance for the rubber. If you use connect the pipe to the tank and the filler, it will not allow any movement. How much distance to leave for the rubber to move is not known and not documented in either the build manuals and the online builds.

[redfogo]

If we are talking about the same image, that was a temporary piece while he was in go cart mode. There is a section of rubber pipe on the bottom and another behind the filler cap. The two pieces allow the pipe in the middle enough room to move. For more flexibility you leave a longer distance for the rubber. If you use connect the pipe to the tank and the filler, it will not allow any movement. How much distance to leave for the rubber to move is not known and not documented in either the build manuals and the online builds.

So this is what FFR sent me I called and asked them if it was right they said it was.... Once the body is on I will know better but I assume I will need to cut the rubber to fit onto the fender. Since the directions also state cutting the pipe they used to give you.

57037

[redfogo]

Manged to get the 2014 WRX trans in I didn't feel like sourcing axles again so I bought the pre-assembled units form FFR. 2014 trans works with the 07 axles in case you need to know. :D

My trans came with what looks like copies of moore blast plates. Seemed like it was worth a shot keeping plus I didn't have the original bolts so it was the best option. If your using the shift linkage set up from Zero Decibel they won't fit though. I was unwilling to give up my Zero Decibel for silly plates so I made a compromise I left one side alone and cut the other side. I have no idea if they will even help now or not, if anyone knows let me know otherwise I might just have to find some factory hardware. For now here are some pictures on how I cut and welded them to clear.
83515

I also got a little bit farther on my center console set up looks like after I weld the tabs on the parking brake a different direction I should be able to keep the Impreza parking brake and Impreza factory parking cables without needing to adjust much. I also added an armrest storage section from a Porsche 1984 944.
83516


Finally got my coolant overflow tank mounted as well. Its 1.5qt aluminum tank.
83517

[redfogo]

I was having fuel starvation issues going up my hill when I had 5 gallons or less of gas in the tank. My hill to my house is very steep and my fuel pickup was sucking in air and stalling out my car. I have a walbro 450 and found that holly makes a hydramat that fits the pump directly yay! So I bought a hydramat Install is very easy if you remember when you installed your pre-pump filter its exactly the same. For me it went:
1. Take pump out.
2. Take old filter off the pump.
3. Place hydramat onto the fitting of the pump.
4. Place pump back in.

Here is a picture I couldn't really get a pic of it installed in the tank it comes with a wide range of locking clips so you can pick lots of different angles for the hydramat to be installed. (Link: to what I bought https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/hydramats/parts/16-111)

83518

Finally got my floor remounted. Started to get carpet cut and my infinity box mounted. I have always been building my car around serviceability since the start. I mounted my firewall with the rivnuts along the top so it coudl be undone quick. I have also installed my carpet using industrial outdoor Velcro. I placed the "hard" side of the Velcro onto the firewall after that I just installed the carpet directly onto the velcro. You dont actually need both side just need the one "hard" side it grabs great with no issues its quick and easy to remove as well. I bought some basic indoor out door black carpet from menards. Its very light, looks good, and does not have a hard back on the carpet so its very light weight and if you really want to you can quickly remove it before you go to the track haha.

I also made a mounting board for my infinity box that sites in the middle between the 2 seats. Used some twist locks for the mounting. Again this was made so I could quickly remove if needed.

83519


83520

Of course my cat had to try out the new carpet...

83521

[longislandwrx]

57991

your inspiration?

[Frank818]

I recognize those IBox parts! :)

[redfogo]

57991

your inspiration?

Yep! lol

[Hindsight]

Hi Redfogo - On the hydramat..... how did you deal with the in-tank baffle? Do you have the new or old tank? I think the old tank has a pan type baffle, and the new one has a small vertical wall running front to back. In either case, I'm curious what you did to get the hydramat onto the bottom of the tank since it seems either baffle would be in the way. Since the baffle is so small and probably not effective anyway, I was planning on just bashing it down with a hammer. Ultimately I will get a fuel cell.

[redfogo]

Hi Redfogo - On the hydramat..... how did you deal with the in-tank baffle? Do you have the new or old tank? I think the old tank has a pan type baffle, and the new one has a small vertical wall running front to back. In either case, I'm curious what you did to get the hydramat onto the bottom of the tank since it seems either baffle would be in the way. Since the baffle is so small and probably not effective anyway, I was planning on just bashing it down with a hammer. Ultimately I will get a fuel cell.

I placed in the tank at an angle. My pump mount is kind of at an angle going up as well since I could not get the pump to fit before back when I 1st attempted to install my pump. So the pump is not flush against the floor. Mine is leaning at an angle like this -----> "/" not by much but just a little bit. Because of the angle of my pump my filter floats a little so with the hydra mat it just kind of goes up and around the baffle there is a lot of slack so it just can droops over since the baffles are so small so it makes a "W" shape. I would recommend smashing down the baffles around the pump though I’m still testing a few things out on my set up currently my implantation works great but I do think it would work even better with the baffles smashed down. That’s something I was going to mess with next in the next few weeks. So long story short yes smash them down lol

[Hindsight]

Cool, thanks!

[Frank818]

How do you smash them down through the very little pump hole?

[Hindsight]

Pump hole on the new tank is larger. You can get a hand and a hammer in there. Old one.... I would stick a pipe down in there and hammer on the end of it sticking out of the tank.

I wouldn't do this if the tank had real baffles in it like the Boyd tank does. I just don't think the baffles in the FFR tank are going to do anything. In fact, I've proven on the track that they don't, even with the tank 3/4 full.

[Mechie3]

Aren't the FFR baffles sort of a cup that sits on the bottom? If the fuel gets below the lip of the cup, the cup won't even fill.

[Canadian818]

I really regret not baffling my tank when I had it cut open.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1888.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1888.jpg.html)

[Hindsight]

Aren't the FFR baffles sort of a cup that sits on the bottom? If the fuel gets below the lip of the cup, the cup won't even fill.

In the old tank, there is a small hole in the cup. In the new tank, there is no cup. There is a wall about 2-3" high, that sits on the bottom of the tank and spans front to rear, just to the side of the fuel pump. It has a couple small holes near the bottom.

I'd love to see the inside of a boyd tank to see how their baffles look.

[Mechie3]

If fuel is sloshing back and forth that forward (rearward?) facing hole won't get any flow. You could potentially empty the cup, have 3 " of fuel left, but no way for the fuel to get back into the cup.

[Frank818]

How many gallons is 3" high in the tank?

[redfogo]

Update on my interior its coming together! Sadly I have been pretty busy with rallycross at the moment so I haven't been able to get loads done, but I have managed to get half the interior done and got some of the front splash guard installed. If anyone here is attending rallycross national championships in IA let me know!

I also uploaded a few pics of some of the front end aluminum panels as I know I have gotten a few questions in the past on where or what "X" panel is or where it should go. While its not a very fun/cool picture progress I hopefully it helps someone.

Center console fitment went well(Note: Steering wheel is using a wireless RF transmitter I made to run the turn signals and horn. I will be posting guide once I get it all tested! I got the transmission of the signal tested so so far so good!)

83522

Front nose splash guard
83523
83524

Front inner splash guard

83525

Join RallyCross its fun!
83526
83527

[Frank818]

Nice interior so far.

Do you have the old nose (not the retrofit)?

Is that you 3-wheeling the subie in mud? :)

[redfogo]

Nice interior so far.

Do you have the old nose (not the retrofit)?

Is that you 3-wheeling the subie in mud? :)

Nope I was one of the 1st 818c kits so all the new nose parts. Yes it is me doing the 3 wheel fun!

[redfogo]

Few more pics!
After thinking about it today I noticed that the rear window aluminum had to be installed before I install the top. I am not sure how others would handle this maybe it could be done if you could slide or pull the seat forward but with a fixed back seat there is no way you would be able to install the rear window aluminum without having the top off based on what I could tell. So I would recommend installing the rear window before you get the top on "for good".

83528

Used matte black paint for the rear window aluminum. I didn't want any shine to cause any sort of reflections while I was driving.
83529

Tabs I made to mount the harness bar lower to be more safe.
83530

[carrera1984]

Car sounds great, what exhaust is that? Thanks for all the pics. I've picked up a few ideas :D

[jcpresto]

How did you determine how high to mount it so it seals against the roof? I just took my seats out so I could ensure it was snug.

[redfogo]

Car sounds great, what exhaust is that? Thanks for all the pics. I've picked up a few ideas :D
At the moment just a resonator once i get my bumper cut out I will be getting the rest of the piping installed. I don't think the sound will change much with extra pipe. I don't plan to install any other mufflers or resonators in the stream. What I used --> http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1022_1033_1055&products_id=47
You can find them form other venders online for a lot less just FYI.


How did you determine how high to mount it so it seals against the roof? I just took my seats out so I could ensure it was snug.
Good catch I had to reword my post I mean you can't really get it in once the top is on "for good". So I had to put the top on test fit and take it off. I'm still not a fan of how it seals with the roof as it really doesn't seem like it would be as soundproof and heat proof as I would like. We will see what I end up doing for that aspect. Maybe place some Heat tape around the seal from the engine bay side so people can't really see it.

[redfogo]

Well the time has come for the body to start being installed. I have been avoiding it! With my list getting smaller and smaller I plan to get the body installed this weekend/next week. I was hopping to get most of the interior in before the body but without the top on I can't get the dashboard installed in the right spot. I plan to get the interior in after the body is all set up. But for now here is what I have done.

I managed to get my rear brace installed to clear the VF30 turbo. I was having issues with the bar clearing the waistgate arm so I cut a notch in the brace so that it would clear the turbo. I cut the notch and then sealed up the hole by welding it back together.

83531
83532

I was having issues with fuelcut because I deleted the VSS sensor(2014 WRX trans has no VSS for the trans). The Ej207 V7 ECU I guess does still require the VSS sensor. I picked up a MapDCCD wheel speed sensor that uses the OEM ABS sensors. I got the basic model(2 ABS sensor max) and am using 2 rear ABS sensors. I was going to put one in the front but for things like a dyno and such it may cause a reading error so I went with 2 in the rear. http://mapdccd.com/vss.html.

Started to assemble my head lights. I installed some LED lighting on the edge sense I really liked the look. It fits well but not OEM perfect by any means. Overall I am happy with the results. I bought 26in long lights and cut them tell I got the length need to fit correct. They light up both amber and white. I plan to have them blink amber for my turn signal.
83533

[Frank818]

You bought the same tubes I did. I am not fitting mines there though and I am looking at a different solution too to replace them, for various reasons. But it's not a bad place, how do they clear inside the fender flange once installed?
What are you going to do with the 8 eagle eye bulbs? Are they white, yellow, blue, switchbacks, other?

[redfogo]

You bought the same tubes I did. I am not fitting mines there though and I am looking at a different solution too to replace them, for various reasons. But it's not a bad place, how do they clear inside the fender flange once installed?
What are you going to do with the 8 eagle eye bulbs? Are they white, yellow, blue, switchbacks, other?

Still planning to use the eagle eye bulbs at the moment. They sit below the fender flange but I still need to install them fully before I say its perfect fit!

[redfogo]

Bodywork has finally started! So far just got the bumper underway!

83534

[Lumpyguy]

LOL, looks like mine. Nice design. I am sure all you exhaust pipes are real.

[redfogo]

LOL, looks like mine. Nice design. I am sure all you exhaust pipes are real.

Exhaust will be welded up soon!

[flynntuna]

LOL, looks like mine. Nice design. I am sure all you exhaust pipes are real.

Redfogo won't be the only one to borrow that rear end design. :) It adds to the aggressive look. I like it a lot.:cool:

[redfogo]

Redfogo won't be the only one to borrow that rear end design. :) It adds to the aggressive look. I like it a lot.:cool:

I agree its very cool looks the best! Make sure to reinforce the bumper along the 2 small fiberglass edges in the middle. There is fiberglass rods behind each. I will get the image of that soon!

[longislandwrx]

that Datsun workbench for sale?

[redfogo]

that Datsun workbench for sale?

I love my fancy work bench! At the moment no plans to sell. I picked it up few months ago to bring it back to life. It will be my 818 is finished after party project. Car has almost no real rust. The whole frame and rockers are spotless. It sat in a storage unit since the late 80s. I got the car running and driving pretty well. Car just needs to be sanded down, get some quarter size dents fixed, and fix a few surface rust spots. I plan to paint it midnight blue(reason its become a storage self)!

I really need to get my garage cleaned after looking at the picture lol....

[lance corsi]

Cars take up lots of space when unassembled, don't they?

[redfogo]

Cars take up lots of space when unassembled, don't they?
Way to much! My basement is full of 818 parts, the garage has more parts for other cars. Add that to the limited time I have to work on my 818 its always a "Do I clean up the mess I made working on the 818 today" or "Do I use that time to get something finished". Based on the mess easy to solve where the time and space goes.

[Frank818]

Have you had more chances to test your hydro-mat?

[redfogo]

Have you had more chances to test your hydro-mat?

It's working great so far no problems picking up fuel. It solved what I needed. No fuel lean out when going up high hills. As long as you have the fuel return dumping right back into the mat I don't see any sort of fuel issues. I recommend it to everyone! It's easy and decently priced enough for the added security.

[redfogo]

Here are a is a picture of the reinforcement rods that are fiber glassed in behind the bumper in case you do something similar. I recommend that you do this or you might have some cracking issues later on.

83535

(Cat Inspection)

[longislandwrx]

Car has almost no real rust. The whole frame and rockers are spotless.

yeah I saw the back half and said damn that's clean.

you better get on that before I call the neglected car police.

but seriously nobody puts baby in the corner.

[bbjones121]

I like your exhaust cutouts. I may do that also.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A7V1qordfzi7M5JSEZ-iJj6c-ZcI4Kck3THHlTy6dgKLsIr5pX49p4xVtZbz4ibMV_lMmbTQXZB XnaUs3ESvoP1sgT4cyBA6M5qrcLEwGreOHIvUX27LfNlQDIBK7 mkeguMd6SG_dy6jzBeKyZsJHcyY8w5j0pOiYP-94T1W2tBjXq57cc8g13zop7b76uudoxWzJ4sicgpxbiY5g2yIQ K4sdHBVPPNIDIZjAIMZg3QlCwoUogpcTbS7rHRDZ2JE7ByRAwO gl1FWK2sZoIMFiBjRhz6wvmF_YU2TbZp2ndPaQjfofexchdfg7 DTySMU1YamgDP1wQsX_pWitqmn5U0BAS_E9gSAsUGtNroe0FIA i2Fg-9subfqqMTvZM16pmNEo-CHqX6KAMIVdPK9oBzQ59siszzwSdyHO1Heg1gouXIRVqpeg89U OHuWetJcqB1VujL-ZiO0ujXMY-Ozlc300SIL2eSKpIe1k5xs8zlpm3yCvF8K2hX0JJRFKgTzQFF1 lm0ObBG0Vo7Q_3QAt_tVPQGtkDOvOAFDePG-dbaaPqdmDFNejxfT2bkLe5M5qg5wGnPwUJv2ZymHMP2yyseuFe HKmsTyQcLAOSSiywCRvzX2Md8A=w2048-h1152-no

[redfogo]

I like your exhaust cutouts. I may do that also.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A7V1qordfzi7M5JSEZ-iJj6c-ZcI4Kck3THHlTy6dgKLsIr5pX49p4xVtZbz4ibMV_lMmbTQXZB XnaUs3ESvoP1sgT4cyBA6M5qrcLEwGreOHIvUX27LfNlQDIBK7 mkeguMd6SG_dy6jzBeKyZsJHcyY8w5j0pOiYP-94T1W2tBjXq57cc8g13zop7b76uudoxWzJ4sicgpxbiY5g2yIQ K4sdHBVPPNIDIZjAIMZg3QlCwoUogpcTbS7rHRDZ2JE7ByRAwO gl1FWK2sZoIMFiBjRhz6wvmF_YU2TbZp2ndPaQjfofexchdfg7 DTySMU1YamgDP1wQsX_pWitqmn5U0BAS_E9gSAsUGtNroe0FIA i2Fg-9subfqqMTvZM16pmNEo-CHqX6KAMIVdPK9oBzQ59siszzwSdyHO1Heg1gouXIRVqpeg89U OHuWetJcqB1VujL-ZiO0ujXMY-Ozlc300SIL2eSKpIe1k5xs8zlpm3yCvF8K2hX0JJRFKgTzQFF1 lm0ObBG0Vo7Q_3QAt_tVPQGtkDOvOAFDePG-dbaaPqdmDFNejxfT2bkLe5M5qg5wGnPwUJv2ZymHMP2yyseuFe HKmsTyQcLAOSSiywCRvzX2Md8A=w2048-h1152-no

All the cool kidz are doing it!

[redfogo]

Update time! So here is what I have been doing so far! As always my garage is a mess sorry :/

Got my wireless steering wheel up and running! No more wires running up the steering column yay! Red buttons are left and right turn signals and the of course the horn. I can even honk the horn and use my turn signals while outside the car haha! I may turn this into a kit in the future if anyone is interested let me know!

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Started getting body panels installed. I made sure everything that is installed is easy to remove. I used rivnuts for everything and concave washers. I installed 3 rivnuts on each side skirt. I only used on on the point that holds the front fender to the sides but I may add another one.

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[redfogo]

Fender Gaps like everyone else I have the fender gaps between the top, fender, and doors. I emailed FFR and talked to them on the phone its been over a week now and no answer....

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Front end so far still adjustments to go but its coming together!

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For the inner cover between the top and front end I noticed specifically for the coupe top it made sense to make this removable in case you need to get to things for service work in the future or top removal.

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[Frank818]

Let us know about your front edge door fitment. Even with the door stop installed (provided by FFR) I had to seriously trim the edge to clear it from hitting the frame and brackets and notch the bottom to clear the bolt's head. It really looks ugly and the front edge is now very small. I wonder if others have to do that much.

[redfogo]

Let us know about your front edge door fitment. Even with the door stop installed (provided by FFR) I had to seriously trim the edge to clear it from hitting the frame and brackets and notch the bottom to clear the bolt's head. It really looks ugly and the front edge is now very small. I wonder if others have to do that much.

Hey frank do you have pictures? I don't think my door is hitting anything. Everything seems to close and open right granted my door panels are not bolted on yet but with them just hanging on the door frames nothing seems to be hitting.

[AZPete]

Have you guys seen the clever door stop that is made with a threaded hole and a set screw? It's adjustable and I think it was "invented" by Wayne Presley way back in 2014.

[flynntuna]

Do you have a link to that thread? Spent the last 20min trying to find it. :p

[Frank818]

Hey Red, yeah I got pix. My driver's door is fine, I have to trim a little the portion where the windshield support bracket is (the 2x 1/2" bolts) as the door's edge hits it, but it clears out fine the lower hinge and bolt.

However my passenger's...

6077260773

Sorry if the door isn't installed for the pix.

[flynntuna]

"Got my wireless steering wheel up and running! No more wires running up the steering column yay! Red buttons are left and right turn signals and the of course the horn. I can even honk the horn and use my turn signals while outside the car haha! I may turn this into a kit in the future if anyone is interested let me know! "

I'd like to know more details on this .

[Bob_n_Cincy]

like ^^^^^^^^

[redfogo]

like ^^^^^^^^


"Got my wireless steering wheel up and running! No more wires running up the steering column yay! Red buttons are left and right turn signals and the of course the horn. I can even honk the horn and use my turn signals while outside the car haha! I may turn this into a kit in the future if anyone is interested let me know! "

I'd like to know more details on this .

I'm using RF to transmit the signal. It works awesome long range too! My radio can do up to 4 inputs. My cleaner 2.0 version should be solved soon and then I can look into a finished kit to sell. If your looking to DIY any RF signal kit will work.

[redfogo]

Hey Red, yeah I got pix. My driver's door is fine, I have to trim a little the portion where the windshield support bracket is (the 2x 1/2" bolts) as the door's edge hits it, but it clears out fine the lower hinge and bolt.

However my passenger's...

6077260773

Sorry if the door isn't installed for the pix.

hmm my doors seem to sit back further. But I will try and mount them this weekend or next to confirm.

[AZPete]

Re the set-screw door stop, I also searched and couldn't find the old thread. Wayne, was this your innovation? Here's a photo of the door stop in my 818. I drilled a hole, threaded it for the allen-head and added a lock nut. This is adjustable by loosening the lock nut, then turning the screw in or out.
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[Frank818]

hmm my doors seem to sit back further. But I will try and mount them this weekend or next to confirm.

The more back they sit the worse. They need to sit forward.


About your RF wireless column, does it control everything the OEM column does? Wipers, headlights, turn signals, horn, wiper washers?

[redfogo]

The more back they sit the worse. They need to sit forward.


About your RF wireless column, does it control everything the OEM column does? Wipers, headlights, turn signals, horn, wiper washers?

No it doesn't ATM I only have a 4 button option. So you have to pick what you want to control. Now I could make a radio with more buttons as well I just haven't thought about that one yet haha. Really you can have as many buttons as you like the problem here is the radio will get larger depending on how many buttons you want on it as they all require some sort of input. Also add in a plan on how you want to mount them all.

My solution for myself was only use 3 of the 4 controls. 2 turn signal 1 horn. Everything else I plan to have switched using the buttons that are in my frs center console. The wipers I plan to have controlled using an external controller not sure where I will put that just yet.

[Frank818]

And your turn signals are self-cancelling?

[redfogo]

And your turn signals are self-cancelling?

Yep that's using the Ibox timer. :D

The big thing here is you can use it to replace any switch so that's up to the end user. The part I wanted to solve the most was dealing with the horn wire issues when it comes to aftermarket wheels. The after market wheel horns can be hard to set up right.

[Frank818]

Yep that's using the Ibox timer. :D

How ****ing clever!! lolll

[redfogo]

Built a crane today it can handle 3000lbs so plenty to handle lifting the top on and off of the 818!

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[UnhipPopano]

What basis do you think that the block and tackle can handle 3000 Lbs? Do you plan on using it to lift the entire car or just the top? What do you plan on attaching the cable to on the car?

[redfogo]

What basis do you think that the block and tackle can handle 3000 Lbs? Do you plan on using it to lift the entire car or just the top? What do you plan on attaching the cable to on the car?


Haha I'm just using it to lift the top it's over engineered with nice spread of lag bolts and enforcement above. Best to spread the load across as many floor joists as you can. I just needed a way to move the top up and down when I'm working on it. I'm just using some tow straps around the inside. Figured this way I didn't need to make any thing perminant.

[Frank818]

I wanted to do something similar to lift my body panels but it was only for lifting once, waiting 2 years, and they bringing them back down, so I didn't do it. Although I'd have loved to have one for the windscreen!

[UnhipPopano]

Based on my experience with fiberglass boats, that may not be the best way to store the top, unless you are willing to live with a top that will not fit well after storage. A better way is to build a cradle that properly supports the top at the same points that it attaches to the car.

[redfogo]

It's not for long term storage just for removal when working on the car. By no means is it ment for long term storage if that was the case yes a cradle would be best. If you are saying that 3-4 hours of support is bad then maybe I will need to make said cradle.

[STiPWRD]

Great idea on the wireless steering wheel! In fact, I probably have a small RF transmitter laying around that'll be perfect for my horn.

[UnhipPopano]

What do you do if you take it off for a quick bit of work, and find that the work will take some time? Will you put it back on at the end of each day working on it?

[redfogo]

What do you do if you take it off for a quick bit of work, and find that the work will take some time? Will you put it back on at the end of each day working on it?


That's the plan its easy enough to do.

[redfogo]

Great idea on the wireless steering wheel! In fact, I probably have a small RF transmitter laying around that'll be perfect for my horn.

That will work you just need to set up your receiver to be able to turn things on and off.

[redfogo]

Finished up my exhaust last night. I need to weld up support mounts and then get it all wrapped up with heat wrap. It was my 1st time welding up a complex exhaust while my welds did not come out perfect like I wanted they get the job done and will be covered with heat wrap anyways! The biggest thing I wanted was to make sure it was easy to remove and install with little issues!

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[Frank818]

For a DIY, those bends are great. Once you drive it, can you tell if the sound rumbles less than on those with a straight same size-no split exhaust? I'm thinking something and you are the closest to provide valid feedback on that Q.

[redfogo]

For a DIY, those bends are great. Once you drive it, can you tell if the sound rumbles less than on those with a straight same size-no split exhaust? I'm thinking something and you are the closest to provide valid feedback on that Q.

yeah you bet I just need to solve why my car won't start now that it's cold...

[Frank818]

I just need to solve why my car won't start now that it's cold...


Oops :(

[redfogo]

Oops :(

Yeah no sure what the issue is it just dosent want to idle up for some reason.

[Frank818]

Mind describing the behaviour (behavior?) from the point you crank it? What oil do you use?
I've had that prob on my old Corrado, it was hard to crank under 35F.

[redfogo]

Mind describing the behaviour (behavior?) from the point you crank it? What oil do you use?
I've had that prob on my old Corrado, it was hard to crank under 35F.

5w40 oil. Car cranks fine starts up and just bogs to life trying to start. RPMS will hold tell 1k then just drop tell it dies. If I move the throttle the injectors tick but the RPMs do not increase. I changed out the IACV it didn't seem to change anything. Going to try a boost leak test next and maybe add more fuel into the tank see what happens. Pump comes on seems to be running just fine. You would think the RPMs would jump up when its cold like a normal cold start. My air intake temp sensor and coolant temp sensor are reading the same values so I know they are both good.

[Frank818]

What are the values red by the sensors compared to those of when the car was running fine?
You probably know that when it gets colder, the ECU adds in fuel and increases RPMs. I just wonder if the ECU is either reading the correct temps or reacting properly to those readings.
I control all that on my stand alone and I've had issues related to bad temp management cuz I didn't do it right. Doesn't matter if you control or not these things, my above question on the ECU is still valid.

[redfogo]

What are the values red by the sensors compared to those of when the car was running fine?
You probably know that when it gets colder, the ECU adds in fuel and increases RPMs. I just wonder if the ECU is either reading the correct temps or reacting properly to those readings.
I control all that on my stand alone and I've had issues related to bad temp management cuz I didn't do it right. Doesn't matter if you control or not these things, my above question on the ECU is still valid.

I agree I feel the ecu should be dumping more fuel at start up and its not... I too think the car is reading in the wrong temp readings. However my logs show engine is at around 47deg coolant and 48deg air temp. So I know its close to correct. My ECU has a JDM after market tune on it. I compared my ECU warm up maps to the OEM maps and they are all the same. Fuel inside is maybe 2 months old. My only guess I need too freshen up the fuel maybe so I'm going to add some stabilizer and fresh fuel see what happens! I ran it 2 weeks ago though without any issues started up a little bad but it idled up eventually after a few min. It was about 65deg outside.

[Frank818]

To completely get rid (or totally nail it down) of the potential TEMPS compensation map issue you have to somehow simulate higher water readings to start with (as this affects more fuel) and then if inconclusive higher water and air temps. Not sure you can simulate that, but it's not impossible.

Bad fuel after 2 months is unlikely possible but that too is not impossible. Well worth trying freshening it up.

[redfogo]

Alright cars happy now. I think I had a mix of old fuel and fowled plugs things seem happy now. I will try to get a video for you so you can tell the sound tomorrow or Wednesday when I am off work!

[Frank818]

Fouled plugs, damn I always forget about that! Good you fixed it quickly. :)

[redfogo]

Here is a video of the exhaust for you frank :D. Its a little less Subaru sounding but still a slight hint of it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxqQ-DfyeNc

[Frank818]

Crap I only responded on youtube. loll
That's probably the best Subaru non-6cyl sound I've heard. There's really something different about yours, not sure if it's the muffler or the split to 4 tips. That should slice the turbulence and change the sound, but your split happens so far after the turbo I'm not sure it has any impact on the sound. Must be the muff then. There's something extremely deep about it. Really nice, man. You gotta take a drive before the winter and judging by your weather outside and vapors off the tips, it's cold already. :(

[turbomacncheese]

I agree. That's exactly the sound I want.

[redfogo]

Glad you guys like it. Since it's mostly all mild steel I think it helps make a nice deep sound. Add in the vibrant resonator I think also helps kill the drone and make it deep.

[Frank818]

Red, when could we expect a load accel video?

[redfogo]

Red, when could we expect a load accel video?

Sadly probably once winter is over. Salts about to hit the roads soon :/.

[Canadian818]

Sounds awesome, nice fab work

[Frank818]

Yeah, damn salt. Just started here. Adam probably knows that too.
Where are you located anyway, Red?

[redfogo]

Nebraska the forgotten state

[UnhipPopano]

"Nebraska the forgotten state"

It might only be forgotten by those that did not need to live there through the winters. One winter when I was there, Runzas were free!

For those not familiar, they have a string if fast food restaurants called Runza, where their flag ship sandwiches are called Runzas. I believe they come from a German recipe. Around January, they put them on sale, with the price set by the high temperature of the day before.

[Frank818]

I didn't know Nebraska had snow. :( It's one thing that doesn't "forget" Nebraska...

[redfogo]

Small Update I started working on my dash set up. Still working on finishing things up but my center console is starting to fit in nicely :)

Also and old picture I forgot to upload a while ago with some of the body panels on. Crazy its been officially a 1year and a few weeks so far and still plenty left to do!

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Rear wiring harness I am running for my rear lights.

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[lance corsi]

Red, in the photo of your car, the wheels look awfully far out. Are you certain there is no rubbing on compression? I was afraid to put mine so close to the fender lip for fear of rubbing.

[redfogo]

Red, in the photo of your car, the wheels look awfully far out. Are you certain there is no rubbing on compression? I was afraid to put mine so close to the fender lip for fear of rubbing.

Im trying to be Hella Flush going to run crazy camber so my wheels are like this!!!

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JUST KIDDING

I still need to do my alignment, my wheels are just where they are because they landed there after assembly. I need to get all the panels finalized before I get the alignment finished :D

[Frank818]

JUST KIDDING
:D

R u? :) On that pic what's interesting is not the crazy camber, it's the rims! The rims are so wide they don't fit on the tires. Plz tell me there is a second lip inside the rim for the tires to attach to. :) What a bad choice though.

[redfogo]

R u? :) On that pic what's interesting is not the crazy camber, it's the rims! The rims are so wide they don't fit on the tires. Plz tell me there is a second lip inside the rim for the tires to attach to. :) What a bad choice though.

I wish I knew the answer, my guess is it runs on hopes and dreams!

[redfogo]

Small update working on headlight ATM trying to get them mounted so they are removable. Having a little trouble getting some bolts in that can actually fit and be fastened! Mechie3 suggested heating up the edges and flatting them hopping to give that a shot ASAP!

Currently running behind as I am in the middle of doing a turbo motor swap into my 1985 mr2! It was my 1st car and I got it when I was 15 almost 10 year ago this January! It also the car that started it all for me! Sooooo that's been a fun adventure I hope to have it done in a few weeks so I can get back to the 818! I just need to place new motor in and get the fuel pump swapped! Having restored the car a year before I got the 818 the last thing on the list was to update the motor that was planned for after the 818 but the car didn't want to hold out, axles started to fail and odd pulley noises where happening it was just time to get thing underway before I had to tow it from my storage unit lol.

Here is some of the fun history of the car it had to go through a large restoration process way more effort then the car was worth but it was my 1st car I couldn't let it go!!->http://www.mr2oc.com/18-show-shine/578481-85-mk1-hardtop-resurrection.html

And here is a pic of it over the past summer:

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While I know its not 818 specific figured I would post anyways because its my blog and explains why I am behind hope its enough justification! Some point I will catch back up to you Frank!

[Frank818]

I always loved the MR2, but mostly the last gen, the Ferrari-like for poor people. Although i admit you really restored this one great!! It looks amazing!

But most of all, I always love to understand where people come from and what made them land here. There is always, always great stuff behind. Lots of respect for your restore.


Our windscreen glass comes from this version of the one after?

[redfogo]

Updates not much in 818 land yet :( but should be back and heavy hitting by end of march at the latest. Finishing up the last few bits of my engine swap in my MR2 and picked up a new daily driver 04 sti.

For those that thing the 818 is a tight fit (MR2 turbo swap):

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Side note if anyone has a spare impreza A/C discharge line they don't need from there donor let me know I'm in need of one :)

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[STiPWRD]

^ I love those rims, so many toys so little time...

[Frank818]

Are you sure that MR2 IC is efficient?

[redfogo]

Are you sure that MR2 IC is efficient?

Gladly accept any better input though :) always looking for better ideas

OEM:

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The current spot seems the best spot you can get really from what I can tell . So it has a blower fan under it that pushing air through it and it also has a big hole right there that its drawing air straight from under the car. Air is also drawn up from under the car and pushed through the core/ through the engine bay vents. If this was ever going to see a race track a trunk mount intercooler would probably work the best. This car won't see any track days(probably) that's what the 818 is for right :).

Here is the hole, you can see the filter is close to the trans the rest is just where all the air is pushed up through the engine bay through the pusher fan. It will suck air from this location and push through the intercooler as well as air will be forced through it. Some 90s mr2 turbo have ran set ups like this with some great results so figure best bet! Its a thick core rated for 500hp.

Its not the most optimal but the best bet after this is big holes in the trunk! I had done this on my 91 turbo mr2 it works awesome but felt to bad cutting up my car.

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Poor quality pic but all I could find from way back in the day quickly haha.

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[Frank818]

So all the air is coming from underneath, you should get some fresh air with that. Doesnn't work well on the 818 apparently, according to Bob and his tests.

[redfogo]

So all the air is coming from underneath, you should get some fresh air with that. Doesnn't work well on the 818 apparently, according to Bob and his tests.

Thanks for the questions though deff have to do some testing see what I can find :). I always enjoy everyone's comments deff keeps me always thinking of new ways to do everything!

[redfogo]

Finally solved my headlights. I tried using fastners on the bottoms and it didn't work how I wanted. So I ended up having to get new buckets from FFR. The new ones are now flat black and no longer have the raw glossy black plastic. I like them! Also I'm not sure if it's the flat black or what but decided to go back to the default FFR light set up and not have the LED strips. Kinda like the cleaner look for now.

I used rivnuts for the headlight housing seemed to work te best they are 10-24. They work nice and I can remove everything like I wanted. Only draw back is getting the rivnuts flush I didn't get them all flush with the housing. This worked okay though because I needed some of them at an angle. They all hold on well and strong but just for safe measures I used some epoxy on them for extra strength.

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[Mechie3]

Any pics of them mounted? Plan to use VHB tape to mount the lense?

[07FIREBLADE]

Did the same approach when I had to redo my headlight buckets. Just never posted them. I like it better than the hanging studs especially if the fenders are already installed.

[redfogo]

Any pics of them mounted? Plan to use VHB tape to mount the lense?

Yeah I plan to use VHB tape idea ATM. That won't go on though until after the car is painted so be a while for that step to happen. I have a quick picture I took on my way out this morning sorry for the dust didn't have time to make a nicer pic lol

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I'm also looking into some kinda gasket material to place between the body and the light for a better seal something rubber I'm guessing nothing like glue but just something to help fill any voids and still be easy to remove. VHb tape might work well for this as well just have to swap every time I drop the lights but I don't imagine that being very often once together.

[07FIREBLADE]

I used a foam weatherstrip material for the seal. Let me try to find some pics of it but I got it from mcmastercarr

[AZPete]

I put 1/2" VHB on the lens, pressed it on until no bubbles, then peeled off the backing and pressed the lens in place . . . it looked good for a week, when bubbles appeared. So, then I carefully pried the lens off, cleaned it up and painted the inside half-inch rim black. Again, applied the VHB tape and reinstalled. Now it looks good. Lesson learned: paint the inside of the lens rim.

[bbjones121]

I am using this foam rubber on mine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEZ1FK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_jEK7yb03GY94J

[redfogo]

I am using this foam rubber on mine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEZ1FK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_jEK7yb03GY94J
How does that work? Is it a one time use kinda foam?

[redfogo]

My mounting solution for the Hella light!!!

Adjustment looks to be working and mounting is nice and rock solid! I thought of this after finding out that the new headlight shells I was sent had miss aligned holes for the Hella mounts. The 1st ones FFR sent fit good but I ruined them.. Maybe they got a bad batch on the second run... After not having any way to mount the hella light correctly and getting frustrated I would have to get another set. I thought of a solution and it should work for everyone! Notice how my bolts are not centered this is not because I did something wrong its because the FFR shells were misaligned for the Hella mounting holes. If you do this on yours I would assume the bolts should be dead center. All you need are 1/4 grommets thread the screws into the lights by hand tell you have enough to grab with a screw driver on the back side.

I have this under Update 20 on my site for anyone following. I plan to upload this into my wiki in a few days as well http://redfogo.com/index.php/2017/04/13/update-20/

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[Tarmac]

Thanks for the detailed website... I just found it and am going through it as i type this

[ben1272]

How do you adjust the Hella aim? The ball-end screws need to be fixed so they cant move forward or backwards so that when they are turned the light moves in and out, no?

Also, what riv-nuts did you use for the buckets?

[bbjones121]

How does that work? Is it a one time use kinda foam?

I haven't actually used it yet. I was going to put mold release wax on my buckets, then squeeze this all around the edge from the back side with my screws loosened slightly, let it dry, then tighten the screws holding my buckets in place. I already installed my headlight lenses and I don't want to pull then off, so I am just going to put it around the buckets from the backside and call it good.

[bbjones121]

I had similar issues with my Hella projectors. The cutoff line was not even close to level either. I had to make my mounting holes oblong and hot glue the tabs and physical hold the projector in place while the glue dried. I then took them out and epoxied the entire oblong openings over the hot glue after I removed what hot glue I could.

[redfogo]

How do you adjust the Hella aim? The ball-end screws need to be fixed so they cant move forward or backwards so that when they are turned the light moves in and out, no?

Also, what riv-nuts did you use for the buckets?

I used 10 -24 rivnuts.

Thanks for the adjustment question, I got around to checking that out last night(needed to wire the lights up). There is some adjust ability but not a lot to be honest I did get them to adjust a little bit though. So after further review this method may not be for most people interested in full adjustment :(.

I reviewed the FFR way and they set the projectors further back so the lights when installed from what I can tell do not sit flush in the housing. I am not a big fan of non-flush set up. After getting my light installed and seeing the lights on and the angles they are at, I'm okay with them in their more limited position. THey seem to point well just in the spot they are at. One option I did look at though last night is you could get some nuts and put them in between to lock everything in place if you want them further back.

I did do the FFR/ normal install with epoxy on the last set up and I choked up on the light just as much as I have them now and had about the same amount of limited adjustment. I'm just not a fan of them sitting to far back.

Here is the difference in the fitment from what I can tell if you want full adjustment
FFR
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Mine
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[redfogo]

I had similar issues with my Hella projectors. The cutoff line was not even close to level either. I had to make my mounting holes oblong and hot glue the tabs and physical hold the projector in place while the glue dried. I then took them out and epoxied the entire oblong openings over the hot glue after I removed what hot glue I could.

I guess maybe I wasn't the only one to get a bad batch what color of black did you get? The flat or the raw black glossy color?

[07FIREBLADE]

For the ball end screwed you epoxy the retainer I'm place and screw the screws in and out accordingly. It's all in the manual.

[redfogo]

Got the lights connected and wired to be removable. I used default FFR lights and I think they are plenty bright when the car is on and running I like the way everything looks and turned out! Maybe get some diff color headlight bulbs only thing I can think of ATM.

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[STiPWRD]

If you have to remove the buckets, does that mean you'll have to pry the lenses off to get to the bolts?

[bbjones121]

If you have to remove the buckets, does that mean you'll have to pry the lenses off to get to the bolts?

Yes, double sided foam tape and light caulk seal shouldn't be hard to get off.

[redfogo]

I wanted to get removable lights that could be taken out from under the car but just hard to get any good room to work with the actually bolt and unbolt them effectively. VHB tape seems to be the best way to do things

[AZPete]

I have removed my headlight lenses mounted with VHB tape and it's not difficult if you carefully pry the lens up and carefully insert something like a flexible putty knife to break the VHB tape. Please note that I had to remove the lens because I thought the VHB tape would give a nice black border, but it develops bubbles after a few days in the sun. I removed the lens, taped off 1/2" and painted the inside edge black, then put it back on with VHB tape again. Don't do what I did - paint the inside border first.

[STiPWRD]

Thanks for the tips guys, I thought removing the VHB tape was going to be a huge pain but it seems doable. Pete, would you recommend any particular paint or prep on the lenses? If I scuff up the lenses for the paint to adhere, will those marks show up on the other side?

[AZPete]

Re paint prep, I just used a satin black spray paint because that's what I had, but since the "surface" you see if through the lens I think gloss or even flat black would look the same. You could probably even use a brush. I think if you roughed up the lens surface it might show, so try it on some plexi first.

[Mechie3]

Pete, did you paint the inside just so the outside would be smooth and resist chipping?

[redfogo]

Pete, did you paint the inside just so the outside would be smooth and resist chipping?

I second this question I'm on the fence between painting the inside and outside. Painting the outside seems like it might look better. Or maybe a a vinyl decal cut to the outline was another thought. Idk if that would hold up great or not. I feel it would hold up better than paint on the outside. I do have access to a vinyl cutter...

[AZPete]

Craig, yup, to be smooth and not chip when I clean off bugs.

[lsfourwheeler]

Do you still have the pictures of your infinitybox wiring harness? The photobucket pictures are missing on here and your website since they cancelled the free hosting a few months back. I just wanted to look at some of your stuff for reference.

Hopefully the build is still progressing!

[Wayne Presley]

Paint the inside of the lens

[redfogo]

Do you still have the pictures of your infinitybox wiring harness? The photobucket pictures are missing on here and your website since they cancelled the free hosting a few months back. I just wanted to look at some of your stuff for reference.

Hopefully the build is still progressing!

http://redfogo.com/index.php/wiring/

Are these the kinda of pictures your looking for? I also went ahead and updated my site to remove any of the photobucket pics. Let me know if you need anything else I will see when I can get the forum pics updated as well! I am at a bit a stop atm waiting for some body help.

[lsfourwheeler]

http://redfogo.com/index.php/wiring/

Are these the kinda of pictures your looking for? I also went ahead and updated my site to remove any of the photobucket pics. Let me know if you need anything else I will see when I can get the forum pics updated as well! I am at a bit a stop atm waiting for some body help.

Perfect! Thanks for updating those :)

[redfogo]

http://redfogo.com/index.php/2018/04/02/update-21/

Updates woo finally!!! Promise I will get the FFR forum images fixed as well I think I got all the ones on my site fixed. Photobucked really killed things...

I took a bit of time off trying to think of what I wanted to do with bodywork if I wanted to do the work myself or have a friend take care of the work who owned a body shop. Unfortunately, I was forced into a DIY as my buddy with the body shop has way to many customers coming in right now bad for me great for him! So After the long wait, I decided to move forward and attempt my own bodywork scary moments but hey I got a kit car to learn new things right!

I’m not 100% done with my fender corners yet but here is the current progress. Note I have been following Blwalker105's write up for all my fender/filler work. His filler is the bomb!

FFR finish way to big :(

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Comming along kinda lol

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Much better :) just need to bring the top down a little bit to match the fender.

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Almost ready just need a bit more spot finishes and then I can glass over. Helpful hint shop vac while you sand and cut helps cut down on a big mess.

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Part 2

Hood is also installed finally onto the hood mounts and latches. I need to glass over the mounts for more strength but for now, the JB WELD 15min epoxy seems to hold great.

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Aero catch mounts have also been installed on each corner. More detailed howto on the aerocatch install will be posted up soon on my site.

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[redfogo]

Folks with the zero decibel mounts did you guys have to shave the front of the hood a good amount to clear the grill so it didn't hit when it comes up? I shaved mine a bit it helped but I think I need to cut it down more. I hadn't seen anyone else post about it but maybe my hoods just awkard batch or I messed something up.

I don't mind cutting down more not a big deal just more wondering if I did something wrong or not. I talked with mechie3 Facebook chat at midnight he has the best chat support of any vendor lol. :) sorry to chat so late.

He said he hasn't heard much of any issues like what I described so figured I would post up see if anyone else had any feedback.

[AZPete]

Re the front of the hood, I had that problem but eventually found that I could loosen the ZDB hood hinge mounting bolts a bit and adjust things so the front of the hood clears the grill piece. I suggest you don't shave any more, but keep fiddling with it.

[redfogo]

Re the front of the hood, I had that problem but eventually found that I could loosen the ZDB hood hinge mounting bolts a bit and adjust things so the front of the hood clears the grill piece. I suggest you don't shave any more, but keep fiddling with it.

Douse your grill and hood stick out the same or does your grill stick out past the hood?

[Frank818]

http://redfogo.com/index.php/2018/04/02/update-21/

83409

Man you got a HUGE supercharger on that thing! loll
Looks pretty bad for front view and drag. lol


Folks with the zero decibel mounts did you guys have to shave the front of the hood a good amount to clear the grill so it didn't hit when it comes up?

83411


Oh yeah!!!! I needed to shave very precisely for long enough. I didn't want to shave more and remove too much of the round section at the front of hood. I tried adjusting the bolts and everything but in order to keep the hood in the right place I couldn't do much. It eventually worked out. It's still very close and if I don't grab the hood correctly and move it correctly, it would rub just a little on the grill. So NO ONE other than me is allowed to open my Hood.

I also have that tight clearance on top back of the grill with the half moon arms when hood if fully open.

[redfogo]

Man you got a HUGE supercharger on that thing! loll
Looks pretty bad for front view and drag. lol



Oh yeah!!!! I needed to shave very precisely for long enough. I didn't want to shave more and remove too much of the round section at the front of hood. I tried adjusting the bolts and everything but in order to keep the hood in the right place I couldn't do much. It eventually worked out. It's still very close and if I don't

I also have that tight clearance on top back of the grill with the half moon arms when hood if fully open.

Twin charger time!!! Great idea Frank thank you!!!

Also on the topic of the fitment of the the back of the grill where arms come close. I found a fix for that! Mechie3 pointed that out to me in my convo with him there is a tab on the back of the mount that attaches to the frame it makes a big difference to add that rivnut in place.

[Frank818]

Oh you didn't have that tab rivnuted? I did that on mine back then and I think it gained 1/4 or so. It was mandatory to prevent from touching the top back of the grill. It also helps A LOT to prevent the bracket from moving, you don't want that.

I also added a washer between the back tab and frame in order to have the top rivnuts more centered on the small 1/2 tube.

[redfogo]

Oh you didn't have that tab rivnuted? I did that on mine back then and I think it gained 1/4 or so. It was mandatory to prevent from touching the top back of the grill. It also helps A LOT to prevent the bracket from moving, you don't want that.

I also added a washer between the back tab and frame in order to have the top rivnuts more centered on the small 1/2 tube.

I didn't realise it was a mounting point or maybe I did??? I installed it over a year ago. But just got the hood on last week. Maybe I forgot to come back to finish it haha.

[Frank818]

That's what happens when you leave things undone for too long or start something and move on to another thing which makes you move on to a 3rd thing, a 4th, 5th, etc. Then the 1st is never done cuz you can't remember what it was. lolll

[redfogo]

Small update I have been continuing on my adventure with body work. I think I may have just got one of the not so good tops? What luck!

I have been trying to solve why one fender was taller than the other. Turns out it was just because my top has 2 different size heights on the front pillars around the windshield. Has any one else had this issue? My plan is to add more material and smooth things out so its a bit more even. Just wondering if i was alone here or not.

84993

84995

I also fixed the top gap between the top and the door(little more smoothing left). No more finger size gap! I don't think there is much more I can do to seal this other than a rubber seal maybe? Any one have ideas?
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84996

[redfogo]

Been working on a wing here are some pics. :) Think it should work out great. I'm always open to get better mounting ideas if any one has any by no way am I a pro. So far I think it will work.

Mounting bar across.
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89537

Got into 3D printing as well so starting to make finishing parts like covers to fill in the cut area the wing goes through.
89538

Rear section mounts:

89539

Still need to fully attach the wing onto the mounts.

[Kurk818]

That looks awesome. Wing and exhaust. Keep up the good work. We all appreciate the photos.

[turbomacncheese]

Dammit. Now I need a 3d printer. Thanks.

[redfogo]

Dammit. Now I need a 3d printer. Thanks.

I would highly recommend it printing has got alot cheaper and the home printers have come along way. I bought a 300x300x400mm printer for $320 bucks. The print quality is pretty great on this thing.

Here is a NACA duct I printed just need to smooth it out and it's ready to rock.

89602

[bbjones121]

Nice. Where is that going?

[redfogo]

Nice. Where is that going?

Not sure yet mostly printed it cause I wanted to see where I could put it. Didn't cost me more then a $1 to print so figured why not right?

[bbjones121]

I like it. What about printing some narrow ones for the tunnel below the existing side vents? I use the side vents fully for my intercooler. The lower duct could force air to the intake?

[redfogo]

Yes I have been thinking about this as well I like the idea :D. I have also been thinking about doing vents on the coupe top kinda like how the C7 vet has the vents up top by the quarter window. Lots of options scared to cut anything until I find what looks best haha.

[longislandwrx]

very cool, wing profile looks excellent on the car.

ps are you running evos or evo iis? i need to order a new seat for my dd and im worried the evo ii will be too loose (32 waist)

[redfogo]

I have a 30 waist and evo 2 feels good to me. I had to go evo 2s because I wanted to give friends and family rides some of which have larger then a 32 waist lol. Think that's max on an evo1.

[longislandwrx]

good to know! thanks man. I'm was definitely going to go 2 on the passenger, but I didn't want to be bouncing around in it, if you are comfy in a evo 2 i should be too.