Wyoming 818R Build Thread

[shoeish]

Hi All,

I have had my kit since last December and have been making extremely slow progress on it due to some life/work/travel fun.

Here are some tips I've assembled. Last updated 11-10-15
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1mU8be84CE9YBwaom7AoAQbHy1wyzqAyxqzdZ726ec7Y/pub

Preview:
http://i.imgur.com/t8XSAbB.jpg


I will format the pictures and add description tomorrow. For now, enjoy the album:
http://imgur.com/a/C6bZD

The kit arrives!
http://i.imgur.com/apVMTYQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SLWpFab.jpg

Installed heater in my garage for cold weather build sessions.
http://i.imgur.com/OBC7BOR.jpg

[matteo92065]

wow!, nice build. I like your attention to details. It looks super clean.

[Kurk818]

Amazing build. Im assuming the dyno numbers are at the crank? Any info on the motor build?

[shoeish]

The dyno numbers are actually my GT-R at the wheels. :)

I was going to tell a better story about how/what/why I have done things on the 818 soon.

[Kurk818]

The dyno numbers are actually my GT-R at the wheels. :)

I was going to tell a better story about how/what/why I have done things on the 818 soon.

You had me pretty damn amazed there for a minute. :) Lookin forward to it the write up.

[Rasmus]

Only two posts and he's got the motor in, brakes on, decorative paint on stuff. Show off! :mad:

Oh and Welcome to the forum. :) Post more. Pictures too.

[Sgt.Gator]

Nice to see another R build.

[shoeish]

Does anybody know if I will have enough clearance to mount this air/oil separator here?

http://s30.postimg.org/ijvjvuvfl/2015_11_14_12_54_50.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/b3waa27q5/full/)
imagen (http://postimage.org/)

Thanks all!

[shoeish]

Purchased a riced out 2002 WRX from some ricer in Billings. Attempts at rally-x failed poorly. Dis-assembly commenced.
http://i.imgur.com/wlXUh17.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OaFrNpo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9lPNPTR.jpg


The assembly begins! Make sure to mount your pedals BEFORE this step. Current manual fixes this.
http://i.imgur.com/Hx4xTNl.jpg

Gas tank mounted, rear firewall construction:
http://i.imgur.com/xXMG8NR.jpg

I decided to have as many parts as possible powdercoated in GOLD.
http://i.imgur.com/EcJK5zK.jpg

[shoeish]

Yep, it looks awesome.
http://i.imgur.com/Z8ZQQdk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Rd07ol5.jpg

Front suspension in GOLD. Upgraded to STI lower control arms, put new bushings on everything from Whiteline. Had a professional put new hubs, wheel bearings and seals in. ARP Wheel studs as well. Should have powdercoated everything, I primed and painted instead after the fact.
http://i.imgur.com/x6YdVfX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/x6YdVfX.jpg

Three times now, a lack of brakes as tried to kill me on track. This time I bought the big Wilwoods from FFR.
http://i.imgur.com/nksOAuU.jpg


Front end assembled. I planned to use the stock radiator until the very last time I was putting it in I busted the plastic tank. DOH.
http://i.imgur.com/Hmk3mna.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/N9atJZa.jpg

[shoeish]

I wanted some better coolant tubes than the ones included with the kit so I ordered them from Breeze Automotive. Amazing quality and oddly at the exact price it would cost to buy your own bender and materials.

Brake and clutch master cylinder installed.
http://i.imgur.com/UvSQzKv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/N9atJZa.jpg

Steering column installed and starting to look like a car:
http://i.imgur.com/N9atJZa.jpg

FFR included the street version of the dead pedals with my kit. I called and they sent me the correct ones. I still had to cut out the triangles.
http://i.imgur.com/N9atJZa.jpg

Brake lines bent. DO NOT use the two little holes, those are apparently for the shifter. I had to move these, and in the process made them less pretty.
http://i.imgur.com/YJia1Kk.jpg

Current progress:
http://i.imgur.com/Jlw985g.jpg

[shoeish]

The accelerator pedal mount was very flimsy. I added one rivet up top which stiffened the whole thing up.
http://i.imgur.com/7IlpNMU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8vECq4K.jpg

SCR Performance in Loveland, CO built my engine. It just so happened that Chrysler Gold engine paint from Napa is very close to the powder coat color I picked. Peter did a great job of painting it as he built it. This is a 2.5 block, 2.0 heads with machine work, STI cams, 1000cc injectors, and a small but clever aftermarket turbo. More details to come.
http://i.imgur.com/uAVMtUl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1Pt3pDy.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WdKWjBq.jpg

I got the motor bolted to the car. My transmission is a Subaru Forester transmission with 4.11 gears and RA 3rd and 4th gears. Six Star Cars did the rebuild/resource, 2wd conversion, and Keith kindly put an LSD in for a reasonable cost.
http://i.imgur.com/WdKWjBq.jpg

[shoeish]

I put the clutch in. Then I put the transmission on, pulled the trnamission, turned the throwout bearing around, and put the transmission on again.
http://i.imgur.com/mz90hB5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/atElVuN.jpg

Lots of holes.
http://i.imgur.com/nMpuToY.jpg

I can't weld and needed some seat brackets welded in. Off to Grandpa's! I put the wheels on and it is shocking how low it is after its been up on jackstands the whole time.
http://i.imgur.com/0iTvd3I.jpg

Thansk Papa!
http://i.imgur.com/tCucJc0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/suYaSxn.jpg

The blue tape is just to prevent scratches when I set things down. New radiator in and AWIC heat exchanger mounted.
http://i.imgur.com/wq4JZcs.jpg

[shoeish]

Fuel lines mounted. I have the aftermarket fuel rails which made this install very easy. (EDIT: I DO NOT HAVE A REGULATOR OR DAMPENER INSTALLED IN THIS PICTURE, because I am a moron)
http://i.imgur.com/LQ0AQdD.jpg

Fuel filter location per the FFR assembly manual.
http://i.imgur.com/pEW9Kns.jpg

iWire harness going in.
http://i.imgur.com/jdzm7eh.jpg

Blue = boost controller
White = front (O2)
Orange = EGT for uppipe, won't be used with my headers/aftermarket uppipe
http://i.imgur.com/PlBdMtd.jpg

Aftermarket axles from the Driveshaft Shop. Worth every penny of not having to screw with their axles which will break anyway. They were *very* helpful in measuring and getting the right ones.
http://i.imgur.com/T3IOcIT.jpg

Godzilla is watching closely.
http://i.imgur.com/UsnPjnc.jpg

[shoeish]

More wiring harness:
http://i.imgur.com/q0b0sRT.jpg

Transmission tunnel fitting, ebrake fitting, and shifter fitting.
WHAT IS THIS HOLE?
http://i.imgur.com/LU8aJp1.jpg

Current status:
http://i.imgur.com/LU8aJp1.jpg

[shoeish]

I got the good camera out for some really clear pictures.
http://i.imgur.com/bMfjHg5.jpg

My custom upper radiator brackets. One metal strip, one vice, one hammer, one oil field guy:
http://i.imgur.com/TEX8L3N.jpg

The iwire kit is seriously nice:
http://i.imgur.com/b16nAmE.jpg

The foam has saved me at least 14 trips to the ER.
http://i.imgur.com/fEIDpOd.jpg

Detail shot of the AWIC water pump.
http://i.imgur.com/9UYtc5W.jpg

Steering wheel removed. Again, one metal strip, three holes, some luck, a hammer, and an oil field guy. LEAVE THE NUT ON A FEW THREADS unless you intend to do a backflip with a steering wheel in your eye.

Also, you will need the clockspring if you want a blink that turns off when you turn.
http://i.imgur.com/arJMVIF.jpg

Pedal assembly:
http://i.imgur.com/dG3nKfY.jpg

[shoeish]

Harness, brake line, fuel line, clutch line, mounting. The ECU bracket is pretty scratchy so it got wrapped in bubble wrap. I keep telling people that's how it's going to ride.
http://i.imgur.com/9dNqByu.jpg

Rear strut tower brace installed.
http://i.imgur.com/h9bEdZD.jpg

Shifter cable routing:
http://i.imgur.com/FXVYs6d.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/muikRMG.jpg

This, right here, is how Subaru mounts the emergency brake cables to the rear swing arms on a 2002 WRX. I'm hoping Google images will index this and save the next person a million hours of searching.
http://i.imgur.com/2nnv3he.jpg

More wiring harness:
http://i.imgur.com/2nnv3he.jpg

Not especially tidy but not terrible:
http://i.imgur.com/m5ikNRX.jpg

[shoeish]

High Resolution of front end:
http://i.imgur.com/4fPTFzp.jpg

Glamour shots:
http://i.imgur.com/7wLKK1m.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zATaYs0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Y46ofsm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0jStXU4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/N6pAiYl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/83Kri8Y.jpg

[Kurk818]

Fantastic work. Any goals for HP/TQ?

[AZPete]

Nice work. I like the gold everywhere but you need less space and more dirt to compare to the rest of us. :eek:

[Flamshackle]

Looks amazing mate! Well done and I look forward to seeing it get its body on.

What is your colour goal?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm just going to say ""WOW"" and ask questions later.

Well, maybe one question. What equal length header are you using and how far below the frame does it hang?
Bob

[shoeish]

Fantastic work. Any goals for HP/TQ?

Thanks for the compliments everybody.

My horsepower/torque goals are 300/300. I live up at 4500ft and track at 5000ft, so I wanted a boosted motor with the best possible transient torque and flattest torque curve possible.



Looks amazing mate! Well done and I look forward to seeing it get its body on.

What is your colour goal?

I am not going to paint the shell, I'm going to wrap it with this color:
http://i.imgur.com/EaFta3U.jpg

I *might* scuff and prime the red fiberglass so it doesn't look like Christmas as I hit bugs/cones/etc.



I'm just going to say ""WOW"" and ask questions later.

Well, maybe one question. What equal length header are you using and how far below the frame does it hang?
Bob

I am using the Killer B Holy Header Equal Length 4-into-1 with Up-Pipe and Killer B High Capacity Racing Oil Pan. The pan hangs a little lower so I won't be running the low ride height. The headers are fine. I'll get some pictures for you.

[RetroRacing]

We are running the same setup, but doing a drop down to protect the pan and perrin QLH, will send pics. We MAY wrap the car as well, but need to do some research into the weight of each option.

[Hindsight]

Looks great! Never would have thought of gold but it looks really nice!

I too would appreciate header pics. The killer-b headers look like they might be low and may not clear front frame but sounds like maybe that isn't an issue....

[shoeish]

I'm guessing they hang down *maybe* 3/4 of an inch. I dropped the motor in with very little issue. I had to remove the dipstick, coolant tank, and oil filler neck.

Worth it!

http://i.imgur.com/gOeLl48.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hkzlaCU.jpg

[Courtnie Provencher]

It's a lot of fun watching build threads, and your car looks like it is coming out absolutely amazing.. I can't wait to see how this turns out! :)

[shoeish]

I did a little work on my intercooler and plumbing. Everything is from Frozenboost.com. Looks like I am NOT going to have enough room to mount the Crawford AWS where I had it. I'm building a little bracket for below.

This was everything:
1 x Water to Air Intercooler Pump and Harness, Bosch Cobra (WAT001001) = $124.48
Mounting Hardware Include Mounting Kit
1 x Water to Air Intercooler Radiator - 24x12x1 (Type 100) (WAT001002) = $149.99
1 x Water to Air Intercooler, 12.25"x12.25"x4.5", Bend I/O (Type 14) (INT000214) = $149.99
1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 1.75" Silicone Parts (CLA000107) = $2.60
2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.0" Silicone Parts (CLA000100) = $5.20
2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 3.0" Silicone Parts (CLA000104) = $5.20
1 x Silicone Reducer, 3.0" to 2.75" - Black (SIL000066) = $11.99
1 x Universal BOV with Greddy Type S Style Flange - Red (Type 4) (BOV000490) = $39.99
1 x Remote Radiator Inline Filler Cap - 3/4" (WAT001064) = $24.99
1 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed Straight (WAT001017) = $3.99
2 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed 90 Elbow (WAT001015) = $7.98
2 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed 90 Elbow (WAT001015) = $7.98
1 x 1' Straight Aluminum Pipe, 2.0" (SIL000274) = $9.99 (PREPARE THE HACKSAW!)
1 x BOV T-Pipe with Greddy Type S Style Flange - 2.5" (SSB000457) = $24.99
1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.75" Silicone Parts (CLA000103) = $2.60
1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 3.0" to 2.5" - Black (BRE000954) = $19.99
1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 2.5" to 2.0" - Black (BRE000951) = $19.99
1 x Silicone Reducer, 2.0" to 1.75" - Black (SIL000503) = $9.99
2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.5" Silicone Parts (CLA000102) = $5.20
20' of 3/4" heater hose from NAPA
I will be using the same coolant Ford recommends for their GT500 AWIC system.


http://i.imgur.com/YIXzS2X.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/I2jv9qf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/crzHZne.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pc1rNMS.jpg

I painted the AWIC and tubes with the rattle can. The bracket will get painted, too. Pretty secure solution, it doesn't seem like much side to side play is possible.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I did a little work on my intercooler and plumbing. Everything is from Frozenboost.com. Looks like I am NOT going to have enough room to mount the Crawford AWS where I had it. I'm building a little bracket for below.

This was everything:
1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 1.75" Silicone Parts (CLA000107) = $2.60
2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.0" Silicone Parts (CLA000100) = $5.20
2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 3.0" Silicone Parts (CLA000104) = $5.20
1 x Silicone Reducer, 3.0" to 2.75" - Black (SIL000066) = $11.99
1 x Universal BOV with Greddy Type S Style Flange - Red (Type 4) (BOV000490) = $39.99
1 x Remote Radiator Inline Filler Cap - 3/4" (WAT001064) = $24.99
1 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed Straight (WAT001017) = $3.99
2 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed 90 Elbow (WAT001015) = $7.98
1 x 1' Straight Aluminum Pipe, 2.0" (SIL000274) = $9.99 (PREPARE THE HACKSAW!)
1 x BOV T-Pipe with Greddy Type S Style Flange - 2.5" (SSB000457) = $24.99
1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.75" Silicone Parts (CLA000103) = $2.60
1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 3.0" to 2.5" - Black (BRE000954) = $19.99
1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 2.5" to 2.0" - Black (BRE000951) = $19.99
1 x Silicone Reducer, 2.0" to 1.75" - Black (SIL000503) = $9.99
2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.5" Silicone Parts (CLA000102) = $5.20

I painted the AWIC and tubes with the rattle can. The bracket will get painted, too. Pretty secure solution, it doesn't seem like much side to side play is possible.

Great job Shoeish,
When you get all the awic finished, can you post a cost including hose, punp, intercooler and exchanger. So people that follow in you footsteps know what they are in for.

I suspect many will be copying your build. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

The rear end of your intercooler looks a little high, You may have to drop it down an inch. I will get you bolt to bolt dimension tomorrow.
Keep up the good work.
Bob

[shoeish]

Great job Shoeish,
When you get all the awic finished, can you post a cost including hose, pump, intercooler and exchanger. So people that follow in you footsteps know what they are in for.
Bob

I updated my previous post with more Frozenboost order info.

Thanks for the compliments. It sure seems like everything is right; it will probably kill me on the track.



I also got my clutch bled, brakes bled, and throttle cable hooked up. Ignoring the hydraulic sprinkler system my brakes were the first time I tried this, all went well. The part number for the Wilwood stainless steel brake line to the lines FFR sent. They sent me the proper number (four), but I screwed two up with excessive cross-threaded torque. I used a harbor freight brake line flaring tool and the tool mentioned in my tips and tricks in the first post to put the brake lines in.

http://i.imgur.com/cxhphob.jpg
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-220-6410
Wilwood Brake Line Fittings and Adapters 220-6410

If you can't get your clutch to bleed, you need to do what's called a "bench bleed." Take a clear hose, hook it up to the output of your clutch master cylinder, and put the top of the tube back in to the top reserviour of the master cylinder. You want the SMALLEST vertical difference between the top of the hose and the bottom, so short hose, no kinks, and level is best. With no hydraulic resistance, once depressed your clutch pedal will spring down and smash your pretty powder-coated fire wall, so put some tape where they will contact. Then reach down and pump the hell out of the clutch pedal getting max stroke until fluid starts to go between the two. This seemingly simple procedure will get fluid going through your master cylinder so you can hook things up and bleed per usual.

As for the shifter, I bought the upgraded FFR shifter. FFR excluded the ball and pivot things (the 1/4-28 nylon nuts were included), and charged me way too much to send them out. I finally received them in the mail. Updates to come.

[shoeish]

the rear end of your intercooler looks a little high, you may have to drop it down an inch. I will get you bolt to bolt dimension tomorrow.

Bob

thanks!!!


Apparently the forums won't allow you to type in all caps to show appreciation, so....
http://i.imgur.com/0ELK57h.jpg

[SixStar]

Looking great man. I really like the choice in brakes, don't listen to the haters!! Ha ha

Can I call you out for a drag race right now? Maybe when Douglas opens up? Street tires. No prep. Winner gets lunch.

[Mechie3]

1 x Water to Air Intercooler Pump and Harness, Bosch Cobra (WAT001001) = $124.48
Mounting Hardware Include Mounting Kit
1 x Water to Air Intercooler Radiator - 24x12x1 (Type 100) (WAT001002) = $149.99
1 x Water to Air Intercooler, 12.25"x12.25"x4.5", Bend I/O (Type 14) (INT000214) = $149.99


I haven't seen this thread in a while, so it's too late to save you some money, but if you buy kit WAT001006 from frozenboost you can configure it to get the Bosch pump, type 100 radiator, and the type 14 intercooler for $369.98 vs $424.96 buying them separately. There's an option to add in the filler cap for $22 vs $24 too. Your parts list looks like the one I shared here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7nE-cTYLdhtRUN3bGNJaHlnUjQ/view

If you purchase the parts through me, I can drop ship those parts (from Frozenboost) for $526.29 (2% of core/radiator bundle, 5% off everything else) vs the $619.15 I added up from your parts list or vs $541 if you bought those parts yourself and used the discounted bundle vs buying separate.

[shoeish]

Looking great man. I really like the choice in brakes, don't listen to the haters!! Ha ha

Can I call you out for a drag race right now? Maybe when Douglas opens up? Street tires. No prep. Winner gets lunch.

It's on! If I lose we go to HPR for a ten lap race to maybe redeem myself,


I haven't seen this thread in a while, so it's too late to save you some money, but if you buy kit WAT001006 from frozenboost you can configure it to get the Bosch pump, type 100 radiator, and the type 14 intercooler for $369.98 vs $424.96 buying them separately. There's an option to add in the filler cap for $22 vs $24 too. Your parts list looks like the one I shared here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7nE-cTYLdhtRUN3bGNJaHlnUjQ/view

If you purchase the parts through me, I can drop ship those parts (from Frozenboost) for $526.29 (2% of core/radiator bundle, 5% off everything else) vs the $619.15 I added up from your parts list or vs $541 if you bought those parts yourself and used the discounted bundle vs buying separate.

I ordered the stuff WAY before I knew anybody else was doing an AWIC setup on their 818; I seriously thought I was being original. Luckily, I found your parts list to order all the right tubes which is going to save me a whole heap of trouble. Cheers, and thanks!

[Mechie3]

I think it was metros who actually clued me into the bundled kit. I paid full price for mine too. lol.

I like all the gold. Makes it look like a very nicely put together car.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

You need to get Mechie3's brackets.
47768

Craig, gold anodizing please
Bob

[billjr212]

http://i.imgur.com/pc1rNMS.jpg



Looking great! I like the gold, very sharp and nice tribute to Subaru and its gold wheels (not sure if that's intentional or if you just like gold!)

Heads up - you will probably have to re-do your shifter linkage to clear the body work.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17290-818-New-Shifter-Linkage-assembly-in-manual-Revision-1o

See this thread and others. I did something similar to what Touchstone did and it works out fine. You also need to slide the bracket forward to compensate.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

thanks!!!


Apparently the forums won't allow you to type in all caps to show appreciation, so....


Measured the distance from the trans bolt to the awic bolt = 13.5"
Bob

[shoeish]

Measured the distance from the trans bolt to the awic bolt = 13.5"
Bob

I got mine adjusted. Thanks for the heads up.

[shoeish]

I got mine adjusted. Thanks for the heads up.

So I mounted up my Air/Water Seperator. Hopefully this image helps somebody. I *think* its correct. I also bypassed the heater, so somebody let me know if I'm correct or not on that too.

http://i.imgur.com/zAASe2S.jpg
1. 1/2" hose To the driver side head, T with #2
2. 1/2" hose To the passenger side head, T with #1
3. 1/2" hose From T of #1 and #2 to Top side mount on AWS
4. 3/4" hose on crawford to hose resizer down to 1/2, to...
5. 1/2" hose inlet on intake
6. 5/8" hose to Y that goes to crankcase goes to...
7. Right under #3 on AWS
8. 1/2" hose from side of Y to...
9. Very bottom of AWS
10. 3/4" hose from bottom of Y to crankcase
11. 1/2" hose from the curved and notched tube on the side of the AWS to...
12. Degas tank.
13. 1/2" hose to Turbo coolant to
14. Straight and notched tube on side of AWS
15. 5/8 hose from coolant manifold directly on top of block to...
16. Coolant return? This bypasses the HEATER. (Note on a wrx: You don't have to do this, you'll want your heater)

[shoeish]

I'm about to do the coolant mod. Is this the proper place?
http://i.imgur.com/jKKhq9y.jpg

Thanks in Advance

[Mechie3]

Thats it.

[Pearldrummer7]

Awesome build thread. You take some great pictures and do some great work. Keep it up, man!

[STiPWRD]

So I mounted up my Air/Water Seperator. Hopefully this image helps somebody. I *think* its correct. I also bypassed the heater, so somebody let me know if I'm correct or not on that too.

1. 1/2" hose To the driver side head, T with #2
2. 1/2" hose To the passenger side head, T with #1
3. 1/2" hose From T of #1 and #2 to Top side mount on AWS
4. 3/4" hose on crawford to hose resizer down to 1/2, to...
5. 1/2" hose inlet on intake
6. 5/8" hose to Y that goes to crankcase goes to...
7. Right under #3 on AWS
8. 1/2" hose from side of Y to...
9. Very bottom of AWS
10. 3/4" hose from bottom of Y to crankcase
11. 1/2" hose from the curved and notched tube on the side of the AWS to...
12. Degas tank.
13. 1/2" hose to Turbo coolant to
14. Straight and notched tube on side of AWS
15. 5/8 hose from coolant manifold directly on top of block to...
16. Coolant return? This bypasses the HEATER. (Note on a wrx: You don't have to do this, you'll want your heater)

Your water routing to the degas tank and placement of the degas tank looks ok but I didn't see a return line from the bottom of the tank back to the water pump. Make sure you have plenty of flex in the water lines from the degas tank to the engine as you've rigidly mounted the tank on the frame (it's normally mounted to the engine and moves with the engine).

Did you delete your PCV? Either 6 or 8 normally runs to the PCV (located on intake manifold right below throttle body). If you deleted it, remember to plug the hole in the IM.

BTW, beautiful build and attention to detail.

[shoeish]

Your water routing to the degas tank and placement of the degas tank looks ok but I didn't see a return line from the bottom of the tank back to the water pump. Make sure you have plenty of flex in the water lines from the degas tank to the engine as you've rigidly mounted the tank on the frame (it's normally mounted to the engine and moves with the engine).

Did you delete your PCV? Either 6 or 8 normally runs to the PCV (located on intake manifold right below throttle body). If you deleted it, remember to plug the hole in the IM.

BTW, beautiful build and attention to detail.

The degas Tank is still on the engine, I built a little angle bracket to move the cap from under the cross-brace. My drawing might have been a little deceiving.

The bottom hose of the degas tank goes to the factory location.

The PCV valve location is removed and capped.

Thanks everybody.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The degas Tank is still on the engine, I built a little angle bracket to move the cap from under the cross-brace. My drawing might have been a little deceiving.


Shoeish,
It's all looking great.
My degas tank is right where you drawing is. I raised it to get better degassing and easier bleeding.
47960

I heard the FFR is coming out with a bleeding procedure video. You may want to hold off on your drilling.
Bob

[shoeish]

I drilled it and tapped it anyway. VERY easy. Make sure to use 3/8" NPT threaded tap for the 1/8" nipple NAPA has. Go NICE and easy. In a little, out a little, in more, out more, repeat. Practice on a chunk of scrap aluminum if you are worried. It was easy to get to with the help of a ratchet strap holding the intake tube out of the way.

http://i.imgur.com/CMU2Iyl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7jaZcqI.jpg

This is what my degas tank relocation bracket looks like. (Edit: If you look closely you will see my single vacuum leak I had before tuning)
http://i.imgur.com/MFDYgjJ.jpg

Intercooler installed along with Crawford Air/Oil seperator. I'll add another piece of heat tube when it comes in. My bracket solution was once again taking a length of iron and hammering it around my $
http://i.imgur.com/6NGXUbB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zuWBgos.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/r04DUAp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/lZjSNgb.jpg

[shoeish]

Underneath, just because.
http://i.imgur.com/bVG0Egi.jpg

[Pearldrummer7]

Does the AOS work if the bottom of it is lower than the port on top of the engine?

[shoeish]

Does the AOS work if the bottom of it is lower than the port on top of the engine?

I sure hope it does. I should have room to move it up if needed.

[TouchStone]

So I mounted up my Air/Water Seperator. Hopefully this image helps somebody. I *think* its correct. I also bypassed the heater, so somebody let me know if I'm correct or not on that too.

http://i.imgur.com/zAASe2S.jpg
1. 1/2" hose To the driver side head, T with #2
2. 1/2" hose To the passenger side head, T with #1
3. 1/2" hose From T of #1 and #2 to Top side mount on AWS
4. 3/4" hose on crawford to hose resizer down to 1/2, to...
5. 1/2" hose inlet on intake
6. 5/8" hose to Y that goes to crankcase goes to...
7. Right under #3 on AWS
8. 1/2" hose from side of Y to...
9. Very bottom of AWS
10. 3/4" hose from bottom of Y to crankcase
11. 1/2" hose from the curved and notched tube on the side of the AWS to...
12. Degas tank.
13. 1/2" hose to Turbo coolant to
14. Straight and notched tube on side of AWS
15. 5/8 hose from coolant manifold directly on top of block to...
16. Coolant return? This bypasses the HEATER. (Note on a wrx: You don't have to do this, you'll want your heater)


I think Wayne's coolant mod is great, but wouldn't it be easier to T a degas line to hose 16? No drilling required and it sticks up higher than the coolant manifold.

[Hindsight]

Yes that looks right but that AOS isn't going to work that low. The bottom line from the AOS needs to have a downward angle all the way to fitting on the engine block. If it doesn't, the oil won't drain from it. It will collect in the AOS and/or the lines. The line slope doesn't have to be much at all... the important thing is that it's always going down or horizontal, it can never go up at any point.

I have the same AOS. I mounted it to the top of the frame near the coolant degas tank (had to create some brackets to do that). See my build thread for pics. However, this places the AOS higher than the degas and the degas should be the highest point in the system. The Crawford guys told me it wouldn't be an issue because the system is under pressure but I still don't like it. I also don't like the under-sized de-gas tank, and the fact that it isn't see through so you can't check your coolant level by just looking at it. So my next step is to fab up a new degas tank that's a little larger and then I will mount it to the top of the frame in the same place as the AOS. It all fits under the hump of the engine cover. If you want to stick with the OE degas tank, I'm sure it probably would be fine....I'm just overly particular about things like that.

Here is a link to the post that shows my AOS setup: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15217-Hindsight-s-build-thread&p=206505&viewfull=1#post206505

[shoeish]

Here is a link to the post that shows my AOS setup: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15217-Hindsight-s-build-thread&p=206505&viewfull=1#post206505

Thanks for the information. Does your hood clear that thing? What is the clearance I have to work with?

[Hindsight]

Yeah look at the pic on the top... the engine cover is on and it's hard to see from that angle but it clears it by 1/2" or so. It can be tight, because it's mounted to the frame not the engine so it isn't going to be moving around. Note in the pic, that the bottom of the AOS is roughly even with the bottom of the frame tube. That should give you a rough idea on mocking it up on your own car, if you choose to go this route. Of course, always put the engine cover on to test before drilling, cutting, or welding.

[shoeish]

Ah, got ya. Time to redo it, again!

What is the product you used for your rear firewall?

[Hindsight]

DEI Floor & Tunnel Shield II

https://www.designengineering.com//category/catalog/design-engineering-inc/heat-sound-barrier/floor-tunnel-shield-ii-heat-sound-insulat

Has some fiberglass on the back and then an adhesive on the back of that. I taped the edges with aluminum duct tape and bolted it to the frame with self-drilling sheet metal screws.

[shoeish]

Alright... the last week I made some more progress. But first, I had to undo everything I was proud of because I learned the AWS has to be above things. If the coolant being that high is an issue I'll bypass the AWS and just run it, I'm sick of moving the thing.

UNDO ALL THE THINGS
http://i.imgur.com/4KNh5mc.jpg

REDO ALL THE THINGS
http://i.imgur.com/MTbocXE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ks1FhYC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DcOmL93.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zk2MT1e.jpg

Huge Milestone: Set battery in, plugged it in, and was able to flash the Cobb programming onto the ECU in preparation for the base map.
http://i.imgur.com/LUSOao1.jpg

[shoeish]

Building a dash:
The iWire/Longacre racing panel is SUPERCOOL.....
http://i.imgur.com/DMeP2ev.jpg

but it interferred with my ability to copy Andrew & Tamra's awesome dash/gauge design. So I took a picture of the back, removed each thing...
http://i.imgur.com/TVHx1wq.jpg

and copied hole sizes on to my dash.
http://i.imgur.com/tmPsTbd.jpg

Remember how I mentioned how much of a ricer the kid I bought my donor car was? Look closely and you'll see some of it leaking into my build.
http://i.imgur.com/nSgfdoY.jpg

[shoeish]

For gauges, I got my gauges from https://www.maxtow.com/black-maxtow-double-vision-gauge-series/
Save 10%: Save10now

They are really, really neat. So I can watch my motor blow up in Digital AND analog.
http://i.imgur.com/Nr9BkiY.jpg

For them to mount behind the dash you'll need to remove 5/16th of an inch from the U brackets.

[Joe Procopio]

Great job, Looks great, Where are you in Wyo? I am in Ft Collins C.O. I would love to come up and see your build sometime. Plan to have my MK4 done this spring/summer. Would be a great drive.

[shoeish]

I'm up in Gillette, WY. I will have my car at SCR Performance eventually to get it double checked, aligned, and dyno-tuned. I believe that I will get it started this weekend if my fuel pressure gauge comes in. Cheers!

[Mechie3]

I've done the undo all the things redo all the things too many times to count.

[shoeish]

I've made a ton of progress and believe I am ready to start it tonight, once my accessport gets back with the tune loaded on. WOOT! This thread will have lots of out of order pictures.

So I had the gauges mounted in the dash then realized a fuel pressure regulator, nor the damper, was on my fuel rails. This is the mess I soldered up to hook my five gauges up.
http://i.imgur.com/7COrLK6.jpg

1. Boost
2. Oil Pressure
3. Oil Temp
4. Fuel Pressure
5. Dual Air Intake Temperature Gauge.

4 and 5 will be mounted in the console.

Make sure to mark each wire as you run it forward so you know which gauge to plug it in to.
http://i.imgur.com/ZlwrMIt.jpg

I ran all the wires to the engine and got them loomed up pretty.
http://i.imgur.com/pu4GqDn.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Xub6ATp.jpg

The wire from iWire to power the AWIC pump just didn't seem beefy enough, so I bought a relay, fired off of the ignition on circuit from iwire, and wired it right to the battery with a 15a fuse.
http://i.imgur.com/sMpe0DP.jpg

[shoeish]

I bought exhaust from AJW Performance. It's way sweet.
http://i.imgur.com/4gTt9dC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LQZXVBB.jpg

Random picture of my seats:
http://i.imgur.com/bsqvMle.jpg

READY FOR OIL:
http://i.imgur.com/qnnGX26.jpg

[shoeish]

Random shots that others will either use as a resource or tell me where I've screwed up.

http://i.imgur.com/QVPnbwY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1UPt3uH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CvQ89ab.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/txX1q1T.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sceJfjM.jpg

[shoeish]

More random pictures.

http://i.imgur.com/j19LVUZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/j19LVUZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IpP2j6Y.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dtEp6Zd.jpg

[shoeish]

Smoke Check of the gauges.
http://i.imgur.com/Et4utCg.gif

[shoeish]

Smoke check the starter and build oil pressure:
http://i.imgur.com/1S3mKgp.gif

With sound:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs6TlgB5MyE&feature=youtu.be

Tonight I shall add fuel, set my Fuel Pressure Regulator to 44psi, upload my 1000cc injector base tune, and fire it up! I'll get my Gopro with good audio rigged up so we can all hear the AJW exhaust.

[Mechie3]

The Bosch pump is only suppose to draw about 3amps max during operation.

[shoeish]

Well... I got my tune, and...

https://youtu.be/p56-6DfX1vI



YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is all.

[AZPete]

YES!!!!!!!!
sounds great, but what's all that white stuff on your lawn?

[Pearldrummer7]

Yeah! Congrats! A wildly exciting moment.

[shoeish]

I was able to work on my center console a bit. I have the upgraded shifter, but I wanted that more for function than appearence. I researched forming carbon fiber and then bought a roll of carbon fiber looking adhesive.

http://i.imgur.com/sP96wpp.jpg

I used this for a removable wheel hub:

NRG Innovations SRK-100H Short Steering Wheel Hubs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EWR3WK/

NRG Steering Wheel Quick Release Kit - Black Gen 3 - Part # SRK-650BK
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GMA6VA/

And this steering wheel, which has a horn I have yet to figure out how to wire:
OMP Racing OMP-OD/1990/NN SUPERQUADRO: Flat 320mm steering wheel | Black/yellow suede
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V5188O

[shoeish]

Also installed is this very nice USB kit:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XJDP12W
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XDSA82Q


If anybody cares, this is what I'm using for carbon fiber vinyl.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPN0BB8

It's pretty thick and nice stuff.

[Mulry]

Horn wire should work like this. Run hot power from your fuse box to the signal side of the horn relay. Run the ground for relay signal to the post on your horn switch. When you press the horn button you complete the signal circuit in the relay and then the power side sends power to the horns (which you ground to frame). We used those same Hella horns on our MR2 Lemons car because we found that people wandering the paddock often couldn't hear our mid-engined engine, but they could always hear those horns!

Build's looking great BTW. I like the kph speedo :)

[Pearldrummer7]

http://i.imgur.com/dtEp6Zd.jpg

Just some food for thought-

on their race car, FFR ran both coolant lines on the passenger side. So did I, as you can see here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=182668&viewfull=1#post182668). Just for better weight distribution, but it's a lot easy to undo and redo (sigh, yet again, right??) now than it will be once you have the body on.

[shoeish]

Just some food for thought-

on their race car, FFR ran both coolant lines on the passenger side. So did I, as you can see here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=182668&viewfull=1#post182668). Just for better weight distribution, but it's a lot easy to undo and redo (sigh, yet again, right??) now than it will be once you have the body on.

I bought the pre-bent coolant tubes from Breeze Automotive for a fairly significant dollar amount so I don't have plans to redo it. :)

[mikeb75]

Stunning build!

One question/issue that I can see though: your air filter/intake & MAF placement may have issues. Several builds have been finding temperature issues in the engine compartment. I don't know how aggressive you are planning to vent yours; but with the air filter & MAF tucked in & so close to the turbo, it might become a problem -especially since the EJ doesn't like high intake temperatures.

Any plans to address this by intake vents/heat shields or isolating the intake track?

[shoeish]

Stunning build!

One question/issue that I can see though: your air filter/intake & MAF placement may have issues. Several builds have been finding temperature issues in the engine compartment. I don't know how aggressive you are planning to vent yours; but with the air filter & MAF tucked in & so close to the turbo, it might become a problem -especially since the EJ doesn't like high intake temperatures.

Any plans to address this by intake vents/heat shields or isolating the intake track?

Hi Mike. Thanks! As for AIT, I'm really hoping that my really big (frozenboost says "600hp") air to water intercooler will be most of the solution. I don't plan to run super high boost and I have a really efficient turbo for the boost I'll be running so I'm thinking no matter whatever hot air comes out of the turbo I'll have enough cooling to bring the intake temps close to ambient, or closer to what the EJ likes.

[shoeish]

I made some center console progress. I plan to run the Accessport mounted somewhere but I hate how the OBD cable is always in the driver's way, so I decided to mount it on the passenger side. Also, to eliminate the business of crawling around in cramped quarters and misplacing the blue plug, I am putting switches in.

The plugs I speak of:
http://i.imgur.com/9qkJkzm.jpg

The switches:
http://i.imgur.com/8VnqO9Z.jpg

Three holes:
http://i.imgur.com/othR7RB.jpg

Antirattle solution:
http://i.imgur.com/VnS22jo.jpg

Where it ended up:
http://i.imgur.com/ifnzIge.jpg

I'll get things powder coated then install everything more permanently.

[shoeish]

Center console and floor:
http://i.imgur.com/CdmkxQG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xS8Zjaf.jpg

Shifter alignment in console:
http://i.imgur.com/swQuRck.jpg

I like to leave myself notes, especially since all my holes don't line up perfectly and I put the ECU rivnuts in a place now occupied by an air filter.
http://i.imgur.com/M0OUAk9.jpg

I am going to run a full glass windshield as I will have to drive a couple hours to autocross events. Do I need to put it on before securing the dash or will it just work?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I am going to run a full glass windshield as I will have to drive a couple hours to autocross events. Do I need to put it on before securing the dash or will it just work?
Put the wind shield frame on and splash panel on before the dash. But save the glass as the very last thing on the car.
Bob

[mikeb75]

Nice job on the OBD-II & ECU learning jumpers! But - you don't actually need a switch on the white/nylon jumper block. You can leave that plugged in; AFAIK it makes no difference to ECU operation.

Also, your explanation on the AWIC makes sense since you have should have cooling capacity in excess - it was just something I noticed. Can't wait to see this build running!

[shoeish]

Horn wire should work like this. Run hot power from your fuse box to the signal side of the horn relay. Run the ground for relay signal to the post on your horn switch. When you press the horn button you complete the signal circuit in the relay and then the power side sends power to the horns (which you ground to frame). We used those same Hella horns on our MR2 Lemons car because we found that people wandering the paddock often couldn't hear our mid-engined engine, but they could always hear those horns!

Build's looking great BTW. I like the kph speedo :)

Thanks! I have the iWire kit so that part is all done, I was more concerned with how to connect the button in the steering wheel button hub to the factory wiring, which then neatly plugs into the iWire harness.

Anybody get self cancelling blinkers and an aftermarket steering wheel sorted out?

[AZPete]

See this for cancelling turn signal:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12759-FFR-Steering-wheel-installed

[shoeish]

See this for cancelling turn signal:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12759-FFR-Steering-wheel-installed

This is perfect info, thank you! I was on the right track, I just couldn't get my clockspring apart. I'll try harder. Thanks!

I'll send you a box of snow to say thanks. :)

[shoeish]

I got the horn and self canceling blinkers to work with my aftermarket steering wheel hub.

I split the factory clockring apart, using only the center section. I took the copper ring off the Hub.
http://i.imgur.com/OlFBVTg.jpg

I filed on it just a bit so that it would fit on the backside of the cancelling hub. To hold it in place, I used two zip ties and pulled them tight.
http://i.imgur.com/koLeY80.jpg

Now I had to attach this plastic hub to the other hub. First I tried silicon, but it was just a little too wiggly.
http://i.imgur.com/zJHbo39.jpg

Luckily, the plastic disc in the hub is far enough away from the steel that I was able to drill through everything and put two rivets in. I had to file about 1/8" off the end of it for it to not touch or rub on anything.

From there it was easy. A bobby pin from the wife, rolled up then rotated 90 degrees.
http://i.imgur.com/JP2UrhX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yYX8bmK.jpg

Adjust accordingly and HONK.

I added some green rope lights from amazon as well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V4RVMU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://i.imgur.com/ZAphsdC.jpg

They are VERY nicely built units.

[shoeish]

I had to take my dash off to get my aftermarket gauges aligned perfectly and convert my British style (down is on) switches to US style (up is on) so I thought I would take some pictures for you all.
http://i.imgur.com/D4qFjUV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7drHtIm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DOxqAXI.jpg

The horn:
http://i.imgur.com/2LuZgn9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2LuZgn9.jpg

[shoeish]

Here is what the rear of everything looks like, in what I think is the final form.
http://i.imgur.com/Zvh8njB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/N01rbfH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mtpoJ6U.jpg

Fuel Pressure Regulator:
Tomei Fuel Pressure Regulator Type-S
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/tom-185001-tomei-fuel-pressure-regulator-type-s

Fuel Pressure Sensor Fitting:
Moroso 65360 Fuel Gauge Fitting
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COS646


Charcoal Canister:
ACDelco 215-153 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9I9GQ

Here is the front battery, intercooler, pump, etc.
http://i.imgur.com/i8IxzLH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dWyotGo.jpg

Front Driver Side
http://i.imgur.com/HUnuYLT.jpg

Front Passenger Side
http://i.imgur.com/ifovR5v.jpg

[shoeish]

Shifter fitment. When I pull everything off I will get exact measurements and put them here:

________" from firewall to Front of shifter mounting plate
________" from firewall to bolt holes for mounting plate
________" from firewall to console hole
________" from rear something to console piece

http://i.imgur.com/xvYrbuH.jpg

[Hindsight]

Looks very nice! I like the carbon fiber. I take it you are laying up the carbon yourself? Are you vacuum bagging it? I'd like to learn to do that for various interior trim pieces on mine as well.

[shoeish]

Looks very nice! I like the carbon fiber. I take it you are laying up the carbon yourself? Are you vacuum bagging it? I'd like to learn to do that for various interior trim pieces on mine as well.

I used this kit for the carbon fiber:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPN0BB8/

:)

[Hindsight]

Wow, I couldn't tell.... looks like the real thing. Are you just wrapping it over the aluminum?

[shoeish]

It is really nice stuff. I cleaned the aluminum with window cleaner, wiped it clean, then added a crapton of window cleaner, slapped the stuff down, then used a credit card to squeegee the sticker down straight onto the aluminum. It's the first piece I have done, it was really easy the second time, haha.

[Hindsight]

Wow, well you can't tell. Looks great (as does the whole build). Very nice attention to detail.

[shoeish]

Wow, well you can't tell. Looks great (as does the whole build). Very nice attention to detail.

Thanks! Your car looks awesome too.

[shoeish]

I need a much better spot to tie the anti-submarine strap of my five point harnesses down. Is this a good spot? Can I bolt it in or should I grand and weld?
http://i.imgur.com/700hkFF.jpg

[Hindsight]

Sub strap should be about 20 degrees back from your legs. If you haven't bought the harness, you may consider 6 point instead of 5 (comfort, and safety of your wedding tackle).

I would weld it, but don't think you would fail an inspection if you didn't (I am not an expert though).

[FFRSpec72]

I would cut the tab off and mount to the floor for a 5 pt harness

[shoeish]

I would cut the tab off and mount to the floor for a 5 pt harness
I won't be using the center tab at all, its way too far forward.



Sub strap should be about 20 degrees back from your legs. If you haven't bought the harness, you may consider 6 point instead of 5 (comfort, and safety of your wedding tackle).

I would weld it, but don't think you would fail an inspection if you didn't (I am not an expert though).

If it needs to be about that far back I don't have to add the angle iron at all, IF i can bend the tab of the bolt end just a smidge.

http://i.imgur.com/J1H8N14.png

What do you think?

[Hindsight]

That will work. Schroth actually makes bendable tabs for this purpose. They can be bent with pliers and a vise but still have the necessary strength against expansion in an accident. Just ensure the tab follows the angle of the harness (exactly as you have drawn in your pic).

See page 13 here: https://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf

[bbjones121]

Looks great.

[shoeish]

The car has been ready to bolt the wheels on and take for a spin for a while, but last night it actually happened. Was a little too cold out for a drive much longer than this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hru0d91SJt4

[Hindsight]

That counts as first kart. Congrats!

[bbjones121]

Ha-ha, nice drive

[shoeish]

What a week. I brought my 818R down to SCR Performance in Loveland, CO for a final mechanical check, an alignment, and a dyno tune. Everything was plumbed up right and the things we found were VERY minor.

http://i.imgur.com/5YAf0EC.jpg

To get enough camber/caster into the front of the car we had to move the lower control arms to the outside holes, but that made my tierod ends not able to reach. Anybody have any ideas on this? Are longer tie-rod ends available anywhere?

http://i.imgur.com/FwTTmlI.jpg

Also, with the Wilwood brakes FFR sent with my kit, the tierod outers are within a millimeter of the brake rotor. I am going to have to have some custom machining done on the rotor hat and caliper brackets to add space. It looks like the hat is just too deep, but it looks like plenty of material.

As for the dyno tune? I was VERY pleased with the numbers. 360whp/350tq at 17-18psi with a whole lot of area under the curve, all on 91 octane gas. I wish it spooled a little sooner, but at 5000' elevation it was spooling pretty dang early. It also sounded amazing and was really, really loud. I will have to fit a much better muffler setup to the car to be legal for any autocross. The cooling system did its job for 20+ dyno tunes in a row with very little fans setup. The AWIC system was super effective as well, causing 210 degree F air to go into the intake at only 10 degrees F above ambient.

http://i.imgur.com/YslmKLO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wJDPDvq.jpg

Dyno pull:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKjHuxFx9sc

From inside:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h28HgwRAalU

http://i.imgur.com/kL9FZMc.jpg

[bbjones121]

Nice looking pull! The tie rod ends are an issue. Mechies may be making some more extensions. I was considering just welding a nut on the end.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

To get enough camber/caster into the front of the car we had to move the lower control arms to the outside holes, but that made my tierod ends not able to reach. Anybody have any ideas on this? Are longer tie-rod ends available anywhere?



Hi Shoeish,
I have the same setup.
(outside holes with sedan arms)
My early chassis the rack was offset to the drivers side and adding Mechie3 extender to the passenger side was enough.
I also changes to all 4" tubes on my UCA. May not be necessary if your putting in a lot of static camber.
Bob

[shoeish]

The steering rack extenders are available here from Zero Decibel Motorsports.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19853-Interest-Check-Group-Buy-Steering-Rack-Extender-Zero-Decibel

Buy a few to make mine cheaper. :)

[Mechie3]

I just now put two and two together between your real name and your screen name. Lol

[shoeish]

I just now put two and two together between your real name and your screen name. Lol

Close-ish enough. :)

[Pearldrummer7]

I just now put two and two together between your real name and your screen name. Lol


Close-ish enough. :)

I feel very out of the loop! Fill the rest of us in?

[shoeish]

My last name is Schuh, pronounced shoe.

Shoe.....ish.

Shoeish.

[shoeish]

How does one separate the T adapter from the shifter shaft so I can modify it? I tried heating it and pulling but I'm out of ideas without putting a huge amount of force on things. The shifter does indeed hit my bodywork. Thanks in advance!

[JeromeS13]

Are you referring to the one on the transmission side with two roll pins through it?

[shoeish]

It's the one with one rollpin through it on the transmission.

[Hindsight]

I just removed the roll pin and it pulled right off. I cut the collar off of it and welded it to another arm I made. If it's stuck to the trans, must be corrosion. I would try twisting it.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It's the one with one rollpin through it on the transmission.
Do you realize there are two roll pins?

[K3LAG]

Do you realize there are two roll pins?

For those that may not be seeing it right away, one roll pin is inside the other. You have remove the inner smaller roll pin before you can remove the bigger one.

Larry

[shoeish]

I put the big roll pin back in so I wouldn't lose it. Is there still a second one?
http://i.imgur.com/iVBdLoA.jpg
Thanks all.

[shoeish]

I'm working on my body. I'm asking questions and getting good answers here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20100-Body-Fitment-Questions

[shoeish]

I've made pretty good progress on the body. The instructions from FFR really should read "THIS WILL NOT BE EASY BECAUSE OUR BODY SUCKS, SO BE PATIENT EVEN THOUGH WE HAVE DECADES OF EXPERIENCE DOING THIS. HERE ARE SOME PICTURES FOR REFERENCE:" It does not say that. You all have been tremendously helpful with your pictures of completed work.

Anyway, progress!

I had to flip my front-rear LCA bushing. Per the pictures, the "divet" has to be on the bottom. (thanks BobnCincy). This pushed the front tire about 1/2" forward. My body is about 1/4 behind where the manual says to put it.

http://i.imgur.com/wBVxDPX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0dhWFyZ.jpg

Passenger side from top:
http://i.imgur.com/BTkFJt0.jpg

Driver Side from top:
http://i.imgur.com/VdUIQHs.jpg

Driver side from bottom:
http://i.imgur.com/p61I8oD.jpg

Notice the "v" in the LCA bushing is pointed down.

[shoeish]

With the body being towards the rear of the car my hood and front fenders are getting close to the windshield.

http://i.imgur.com/EYdnp1B.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tUETwg1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wWdi880.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KoW5lvc.jpg

I set the windshield in place. It turns out that the black fiberglass on the windshield surround was cut in an arbitrary place on one of the two sides (Again, "OUR BODY SUCKS...). I leveled the windshield (measuring with the brackets to random references on the frame), then measured 20.5" from the bottom sill on the side sail to the bottom of the windshield, made a mark, and cut/filed away. This made room for the doors.

[Hindsight]

Thx for sharing... abt to start on my body so this helps.

[Mechie3]

At least yours is too close. My fender/hood/door gap is huge making it look like you cut a hole there. :(

[shoeish]

At least yours is too close. My fender/hood/door gap is huge making it look like you cut a hole there. :(

Got a picture?

[FFRSpec72]

I think you will find that you have to open up the gap on the fenders where it meets the door to get the surface air to flow down the sides and get the turbulence out of the wheel wells

[shoeish]

I think you will find that you have to open up the gap on the fenders where it meets the door to get the surface air to flow down the sides and get the turbulence out of the wheel wells

I didn't think about that. How much do you think I should go? Thanks!

[FFRSpec72]

I didn't think about that. How much do you think I should go? Thanks!

I'm about 1.5" gap, I think Mitch has 2" and the other R here in Seattle that has done some track testing is about 1.5 but may go more once they get more results

[Mechie3]

Got a picture?

The top trimmed surface from FFR was just odd.

http://i.imgur.com/Jue9NgC.jpg

[shoeish]

More info, as promised.

The "tabs" on the fenders that mount to the top of the side sails are arbitrarilily cut. They interfere with the door.
Driver side:
http://i.imgur.com/P77ObPR.jpg


Passenger Side:
http://i.imgur.com/NOv2xLu.jpg


To get my doors to fit, I had to trim them. I did one, then clamped them together and mirrored it. It *almost* worked.
http://i.imgur.com/jR1KG6V.jpg

Here is what the cut looks like on the top of the passenger side door. This + 3/16" or so.
http://i.imgur.com/vca7FI4.jpg

Passenger side fit BEFORE the final fit on the hood and front fenders.
http://i.imgur.com/OoYXpKh.jpg

Once you get the front fender mounted to the front bumper it can be marked and trimmed.
http://i.imgur.com/tVMcbv6.jpg

[shoeish]

I'm about 1.5" gap, I think Mitch has 2" and the other R here in Seattle that has done some track testing is about 1.5 but may go more once they get more results

Any chance you can snag some pictures so I can copy? :)

[shoeish]

The car with everything mostly sitting there:
http://i.imgur.com/aKnwJXw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CEHlGRv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3RUR0Fa.jpg

[Pearldrummer7]

Wow! It looks awesome dude. I would recommend doing lights before you bolt a single thing up (as you know I believe), and keep on keeping on. The body freaking sucked to do, as you said.

[FFRSpec72]

Any chance you can snag some pictures so I can copy? :)

Here are mine

51210 51211

[Mitch Wright]

Like Tony (I believe most R builders) my doors are fixed not hinged.

[shoeish]

Wow! It looks awesome dude. I would recommend doing lights before you bolt a single thing up (as you know I believe), and keep on keeping on. The body freaking sucked to do, as you said.

Done! I pulled them for the rest of the cluster duck.

[RetroRacing]

We did not read the manual after the first day.....it was easier that way.

[Hindsight]

My biggest fear in the whole body fitting process is thinking I have something right in a certain spot, and them trimming something to get it to fit, only later to realize I was mistaken and now I've trimmed something too far and it will look bad after re-adjusting everything the way it should go.

Yours is coming together nicely though.... you are taking a good approach.

[shoeish]

My biggest fear in the whole body fitting process is thinking I have something right in a certain spot, and them trimming something to get it to fit, only later to realize I was mistaken and now I've trimmed something too far and it will look bad after re-adjusting everything the way it should go.

Yours is coming together nicely though.... you are taking a good approach.

I have the same exact fear. I already have a few holes in things I'm not proud of. The shear number of forum threads and pictures I looked at before making any cuts was huge. I then fear that once I make a cut or file something to get it into place that I was wrong in wanting to get it where I did. As it turns out FFR was obvious about some of the lines that you should be aiming for. The next fear is that once I get it all to fit none of the finish aluminum is going to line up and cause me another endless additional hours of work.

I'm still not sure how I want the hood to line up with the windshield. I'm just going to make the hood line up with the top of the fenders and see what it looks like from there.

Gorilla glue and masking tape fixes holes smoothly. A Dremel with a small cylindrical bit held at an angle (toward or against the direction of your cut) makes nice, straight, quick cuts. A flat/round file smooths everything out well enough.

Anybody have ideas for the door insides?
http://i.imgur.com/tdHSVMM.jpg

[shoeish]

Hood panel gaps... Much sanding, wow.

Step one, place hood on car. See how bad it is. Mine was 3/8 to 1/2" too high. I started with 3/8, which is two paint sticks thick. I drew a line.
http://i.imgur.com/oVkRGkO.jpg

I was then scared of what my beltsander was going to munch through and how quickly, so I made some max-depth marks. This turned out to be unnecessary.
http://i.imgur.com/iqvELcK.jpg


I'm doing it for a cause.
http://i.imgur.com/c8Um6n7.jpg

This wasn't enough, I had to go another 1/8 to 3/16. I made lots of marks on the hood, sanded more, more marks, more sanding, more straightening, more notching for windshield clearance...
http://i.imgur.com/xtNrza1.jpg

The nose looks like this:
http://i.imgur.com/lEnGODM.jpg

And now I have this:
http://i.imgur.com/gvD3B6i.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UBqISgT.jpg

[shoeish]

Continued...

And this:
http://i.imgur.com/cwAuo5a.jpg

You are wasting your time if you are using anything other than this product to remove sharpie from anything.
http://www.amazon.com/Homax-Group-747-Remover-11-Ounce/dp/B001CAXFWC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41eO-nA1A9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0N2B92NMR8HBE1TJJTDC
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41eO-nA1A9L._SX425_.jpg

It's seriously ridiculously amazing and I'm still considering making an infomercial for it.

[Hindsight]

Hood fit looks really nice, with the exception of the driver's side hood to bumper joint, but obviously that isn't your fault. By the looks of it, your only option may be to build up the bumper there to make it match the joint on the other side.

[shoeish]

I was noticing how much work I've done over the last year. Almost a shame that it gets covered with FFR's ****ty body.
http://i.imgur.com/GYB4iee.jpg

Back to body. I am now going to make the rear hood panels fit, they are VERY bad.
http://i.imgur.com/6qx31ud.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0jPRS8x.png

The rear bumper top is completely terrible and the gap is more of a V.
http://i.imgur.com/Ad6W45t.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ad6W45t.jpg

The driver side front fender also had a cavity. (please note that this picture was taken before I watched bobncincy video on headlight mounting and I do NOT have it mounted this way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlPaGiM453c)
http://i.imgur.com/KUPlsUL.jpg

I found one on the passenger side front wheel well arch, too.
http://i.imgur.com/KNMuuYv.jpg

[shoeish]

Where do these panels go and how? I can't figure it out.
http://i.imgur.com/FRji0or.jpg

[Mechie3]

That was a cavity you found? Oof.

That aluminum goes on the side of the front subframe. Flat end down it attaches to the undertray.

[C.Plavan]

I just clicked on this thread- I shouldn't have. I'm having body fitting flashbacks. We all feel your pain!

That cavity is horrible. I had one in the side vents- I just cut the 8itch out and used Kirk818's ducts.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Where do these panels go and how? I can't figure it out.
http://i.imgur.com/FRji0or.jpg

here is somebodies picture

51263

[THE FURNACE]

Brutal. A lack of QC. Looks painful alright!

[shoeish]

Cancer fixed.
http://i.imgur.com/jALWmF1.jpg

Rear Edge fixed
http://i.imgur.com/0oC2YQl.jpg

More cancer fixed:
http://i.imgur.com/Q6tfisZ.jpg

It's looking awesome.
http://i.imgur.com/0oC2YQl.jpg

[shoeish]

How you ask? With this magic.
http://i.imgur.com/TNUa6tM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bfHUaio.jpg

Find a spot. Grind it out (more than this picture suggests)
http://i.imgur.com/4T5wlNZ.jpg

Slather it on.
http://i.imgur.com/gC1k5cr.jpg

And sand.
http://i.imgur.com/0JsTIOP.jpg

[shoeish]

Decision time.

#1 Big gap here (between hoods):
http://i.imgur.com/y5akEtZ.jpg


Or

#2 Here (at front)
http://i.imgur.com/Bj9Uwhp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/q1OJlGS.jpg

I'm thinking #2 and use some bondo/something to blend it a bit better, BUT I don't know what goes here and if that would work.:
http://i.imgur.com/c4ELC25.jpg

Any ideas?

[Mechie3]

Whichever is the least amount of work. Erik bonded his engine cover and trunk together. Some people with R's cut off the little wings on the engine cover to make it easier to remove.

[RetroRacing]

We cut and attached the extension to the rear hump valance, made it easy to remove for engine access. We also put the two rear pieces together, cause our wing is rear mounted to the frame, so we can.

5135351354

[Mitch Wright]

As Craig mention I am cutting the wings and bolting them down with 2 buttonheads on each side and then will have 2 1/4 fastener in the front of the engine cover and 2 hood pins for the rear. I think for now I am leaving the rear deck and engine covers separate but have thought about making them one piece like Retro did. My thinking is for now they are easier to deal with apart.

[shoeish]

Thanks for the ideas everybody. I made the decision to whack the little wing off the rear hood. I wish I would have done that first thing to save all the scratches on my rollbar.

To mount them, I took a piece of 16 ga steel and put a 1.25" bend in it. I then mounted it with rivnuts. These will get smaller (and lighter) at some point.
http://i.imgur.com/SqMVlHD.jpg

I then took perforated base studs and bent the shafts and epoxied them to the winglets. http://www.mcmaster.com/#97590A445
http://i.imgur.com/vhXLTaQ.jpg

Then I made holes.
http://i.imgur.com/ZqGj8n0.jpg

And it fits!
http://i.imgur.com/FBj8CPM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JfBu6Ss.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/k2qID5j.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Yh8rBAO.jpg

[shoeish]

I took everything off so I could work on the body. I also need to be able to access the inside of the doors so I took my side aluminum pieces off.
http://i.imgur.com/TZ01wYs.jpg

I filled and fixed lots. I really, really made a difference.
http://i.imgur.com/Jg2sRer.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JtdTzsi.jpg


Whole album:
https://goo.gl/photos/oMUkQMbXkbEwzyB49

I also drilled mounted my first two quicklatches. It takes a 3/4" holesaw to mount these.(http://www.quik-latch.com/black-anodized-mini-quik-latch.html)
http://i.imgur.com/LJT46M8.jpg

It came up short so I ordered these. http://www.quik-latch.com/elongated-mini-quik-latch-pin.html
http://www.quik-latch.com/images/4_inch_pin.jpg


If you haven't held and touched one of these quik-latches they are impressive. ZERO play/rattle. The nut on the bottom seems like its lacking in some surface area so I snagged some 3/4" washers.

[shoeish]

OH YEAH! FFR sent me the revised shift mechanism. This fixes that issue. It also looks really neat.
http://i.imgur.com/CfW8zgP.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

The body work is sooo much fun on these, sometime I feel that the Cobra body is easier since it's one piece but you have the seams to deal with, and here you have to worry about all the panels fitting together.

I assume you will add some tabs to the hump deck so that they slide under the section you cut off (like how the rear lid holds down the hump deck) ?

Also just as a suggestion that you look into the springs for the quick latch and also maybe the thicker studs

[shoeish]

I am going to put quicklatches on the front of the rear hood, as well. I will have 5/16" studs all around. What I'm doing for the gap is a surprise; I have a plan I swear.

Since I will be using it on the track, I figure that at some point I will have to push the car. The body is not strong enough to deal with such things, so I made better rear hood latch mounts that will be the beginning of a light reinforcing system for the rear of the body.

http://i.imgur.com/13DKJpw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8yyGnG8.jpg

[shoeish]

I have these carbon fiber pieces. I believe its the "street" stuff. Any hints for installation?

http://i.imgur.com/mOXHPtt.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

You have the street front splitter, you need to get the R version, the diffuser is the R version, you should have gotten some strakes along with it. You mount as you see fit, suggest that you look at how all the under engine aluminum will fit before you mount the diffuser. The piece in the middle looks like the rear spoiler for the S, you need to get the $1500 wing !

[shoeish]

You have the street front splitter, you need to get the R version, the diffuser is the R version, you should have gotten some strakes along with it. You mount as you see fit, suggest that you look at how all the under engine aluminum will fit before you mount the diffuser. The piece in the middle looks like the rear spoiler for the S, you need to get the $1500 wing !

I ordered the "street" setup with side rails (not pictured). I really didn't want the huge wing and tons of downforce... Hmmm.

[longislandwrx]

certainly don't buy the 3d GTC wing from FFR that was just a takeoff from the GTM.

FFR is using a straight wing now, GT-250? which is better on the car and cheaper too.

[shoeish]

With more research it is the street splitter. It will mount with rivnuts.
http://i.imgur.com/ZXvqFCS.jpg

My car will end up using qty 10 QL-25-S Quik-Latch Mini Latches. They are pretty damn nice. I did have to order the springsf as the panels will be very hard to remove without a huge hole to grab.
http://i.imgur.com/CKi8Ojr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SGJLUiS.jpg

I got my hood and everything to line up perfectly. I'll get a ton more shots of the body in the daylight with the real camera.
http://i.imgur.com/vZvSxXu.jpg

I then dug around for an hour and found that my front hood pin mounts don't exist. Then I found I missed this:
http://i.imgur.com/WzKFGkI.jpg

FFR is sending those and the rear diffuser strakes they didn't include with my kit. The (new to me) Courtnie Provencher at FFR seems like she is on it.

[shoeish]

Progress! I am happy with my body and it is going to paint today or tomorrow.

This is the final windshield mounting angle on my 818R.
http://i.imgur.com/KiDjpMk.jpg

On my forward rear hood, the humps had the notches for the 818S so I decided to make "noise holes."
http://i.imgur.com/NELyAmd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FQtcUbd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qtd5lLi.jpg

I did cut the wings off to make the hood easier to remove. I was going to do something fancy to cover the gap but ended up with a simpler, better solution.
More perforated base studs:
http://i.imgur.com/UtYENnk.jpg

I'm going to have this powder coated then epoxy it right to the winglet. The rear hood will push down on it perfectly.
http://i.imgur.com/gwkc9cj.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gwkc9cj.jpg

[shoeish]

Front bumper pictures. I have the headlight buckets mounted. To make them strong I used more perforated base studs. I DO have the AWIC kit, so you can see the notching I had to do as well. I plan to reinforce this bit once I get my front hood pin mounts.
http://i.imgur.com/1kLNDpY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7MqLfP3.jpg

Here is how I plan to mount my nose.
http://i.imgur.com/ZlBSFlF.jpg

[shoeish]

I did order a Boyd tank. At least nothing is in the way for installation. :(
http://i.imgur.com/jXks5jG.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

I did cut the wings off to make the hood easier to remove. I was going to do something fancy to cover the gap but ended up with a simpler, better solution.
More perforated base studs:


Wouldn't it be better if you added a lip to the hump deck where you cut the wings off so that the rear hump heck slid under the wings to help keep it down, much like the rear hump deck slides under the rear deck lid ?

[shoeish]

I've played with it a few ways, it should stay down pretty well with my front most quic-latch. The expanded steel is very "scratchy" so I don't want to be trying to poke it around once I get my paint/wrap on.

[Hindsight]

You are making quick progress! Should have it on the track in no time.

[shoeish]

Things are coming along. In the following picture, what panel are his fingers touching (Directly below the headlight)? Nothing is said about it in the manual and I don't have it.

http://i.imgur.com/vvnvx1G.png?1

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Things are coming along. In the following picture, what panel are his fingers touching (Directly below the headlight)? Nothing is said about it in the manual and I don't have it.
I think that is an illusion. The is no panel below the headlights.

[FFRSpec72]

Things are coming along. In the following picture, what panel are his fingers touching (Directly below the headlight)? Nothing is said about it in the manual and I don't have it.

If you run the front splitter you don't need any of that under the front aluminum including the tray that is he is putting on in the picture

[shoeish]

I'm only running the street splitter so a HUGE hole would be there and not direct anything through the radiator.

[shoeish]

Tons of progress, no updates, so here. The body was fully put on, holes drilled, seams fixed, and lots of mounting points done.
http://i.imgur.com/EzUd3vl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0Yd7fFS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XMIgI2N.jpg

Off for primer and cheap black paint/clear.
http://i.imgur.com/WadxBq1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OUuqROo.jpg

Windshield ended up at this angle:
http://i.imgur.com/3a32Wm6.jpg

Undertray plus street splitter:
http://i.imgur.com/b7HuNSc.jpg

[shoeish]

The rear fenders were a ***** to get right. I did not get a finished picture.
http://i.imgur.com/Bp3YdbB.jpg

GOLD!
http://i.imgur.com/BJjQVWJ.jpg

For reference, you have this much room between the side panels and everything.
Passenger side:
http://i.imgur.com/ev1a3by.jpg
Driver side:
http://i.imgur.com/26VrkYQ.jpg


Went to Daytona to try and three-peat with our Saabs with Chumpcar. Both of them broke. We got 4th overall in our EC 328i, though, which was fun. Would have won if a new to us driver didn't blow the pit out checkpoint and get us a 4-5 lap penalty.
http://i.imgur.com/dApxtFP.jpg

[shoeish]

I really needed more legroom so I ordered the Boyd tank. DISASSEMBLE ALL THE THINGS. How cool would it be if I had a rear firewall to mount stuff on and shield the ECU from water and me from heat? I used a "brake" at our shop to rebend the FFR rear firewall. I measured with cardboard and bent to that. The new bolts/holes pulled it into place. The rubber stuff from mcmaster car really gave it a nice look.
http://i.imgur.com/IbfCvcV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OXfmHZF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QsohXzM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Mq5n140.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LPbM2Dw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4ygWCfM.jpg

[shoeish]

I know a clamp is missing, its on there now.
http://i.imgur.com/mp9eEDM.jpg

Finished interior. I still need some carpet in a few spots but I'll get there soon enough. I ordered cheap shifter boots from ebay and they are pretty nice. Some 1/8" rivets with 1/8" washers holds the fabric very nicely.
http://i.imgur.com/U7CsS5r.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UQgIZKI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MuL2AD8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UBLnzPY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jbAVopN.jpg

[shoeish]

Let me explain my rollover protection thing.
http://i.imgur.com/mp9eEDM.jpg

Rather than weld a bung to the tank for the fill neck vent and external vent, I just used this:
52946
Buy here:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKFHOVC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is full opening and Boyd's rollover valve thing plus
52941
Buy here:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PKLDL4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll attach the charcoal canister to the rollover vent and the fill neck vent to the open vent. I will have to weld a bung to the fill neck vent.

[Mechie3]

Is boyd attaching the top pump mount to the under ring with screws going through plastic washers? What's the purpose of the plastic pieces?

[shoeish]

Is boyd attaching the top pump mount to the under ring with screws going through plastic washers? What's the purpose of the plastic pieces?

I never took it apart, just assumed it would work. :confused:

[shoeish]

I have NO idea where these things go. Anybody have any ideas?

http://i.imgur.com/I9GGP7z.jpg?1

[FFRSpec72]

What shifter/e-brake and shift knob did you use ?

[AZPete]

The 2 small aluminum pieces at the bottom of your photo are fuse box mounts but I couldn't find any use for them. I don't know what the big long piece is and I didn't get that one. BTW, very nice work!

[shoeish]

The shifter and knob is the upgraded one from FFR I got to fit under their trim. The ebrake is from the WRX. My boots are from ebay.

Thanks!

[shoeish]

Holy crap, just realized my dampener and fuel pressure sending unit are in the wrong spot. Neat.

[shoeish]

This is how my ECU is mounted.
http://i.imgur.com/jWbbsTP.jpg

The final top of fuel tank picture:
http://i.imgur.com/g55JVRn.jpg


I think I am as far as I can be until my bodywork comes back from paint. I put the wheels on and rolled it outside for pictures.

http://i.imgur.com/ismuBYl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/R2lBo6u.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WJQtsI2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zKfuriC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yK0pnA4.jpg

[shoeish]

http://i.imgur.com/rvM2U3U.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/E6KgUsZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JFYUhmg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uRSzrG1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qZD10kj.jpg

[shoeish]

http://i.imgur.com/bvjsiAI.jpg

Interior
http://i.imgur.com/FiIBpnx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/woolE1U.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hHn9TOK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iCE9LEF.jpg

Bodywork currently:
http://i.imgur.com/ziKzaBA.jpg

[Mechie3]

Very nice!

[AZPete]

WOW! I'd write more but now I feel I should go out to the garage to clean and paint some stuff.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great job shoeish,
It is unfortunate that you are going to cover up all your hard work.
Bob

[shoeish]

Great job shoeish,
It is unfortunate that you are going to cover up all your hard work.
Bob

I feel like I'm not a great mechanic so I will be "experiencing" the pretty work plenty. :)

[STiPWRD]

Nice work, where did you get those switches above the OBD2 port? I was just about to find some instead of having those connectors for reflashing.

[shoeish]

Nice work, where did you get those switches above the OBD2 port? I was just about to find some instead of having those connectors for reflashing.

I just snagged something from Autozone that would close the loops. Apparently you only need ONE and you can leave the other closed; I didn't know that so I did both.

[Hindsight]

Looks excellent! I like the OBDII Port mount.

[Rasmus]

So much excellent progress. Nice work.

[Aero STI]

That body work looks amazing. I like all the gold that will be hidden beneath the black.

You need to swap LF and RR wheels. The tread is reversed.

[Mechie3]

Nice work, where did you get those switches above the OBD2 port? I was just about to find some instead of having those connectors for reflashing.

I like these switches. Modern looking toggles that also have an option for an illuminated padde.

https://www.hndme.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3183&idcategory=127

[flynntuna]

Man, your putting on a clinic on how the details make the difference!

[shoeish]

Body install is beginning. I had a body shop prime and paint my stuff with cheap black paint. Once everything is on he is going to go over it and make it look great. From the beginning I have planned to wrap it but the black/gold looks pretty good, I'm starting to reconsider.

I put the rivnuts for the doors in with the bodywork off. I also drilled the holes for the sideskirts. For the door rivnuts, I took some 1" diameter 1/4" ID fender washers and drilled them out to 25/64" (riv nut size) so the rivnuts would hold more.

http://i.imgur.com/BpFPyhx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GG9mdQX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/w7fSCmI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/j76zAKR.jpg

Tonight I will fit the filler neck to the boyd tank and add the inner rear fenders. I am going to leave hood hinges maroon as a homage to the donor car.

Has anybody wet-sanded the carbon fiber yet? Any tips?

[Aero STI]

It's coming together nicely.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/56/2c/0c/562c0cf50aaf650d139e3d657a7f283b.jpg

[shoeish]

Thanks all. More progress, I've been hitting it hard.

I got my charcoal cansitor fitted.
http://i.imgur.com/jLfO9v2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ho1tlB3.jpg

With the boyd tank I made two cuts on the FFR fuel filler neck and its going to fit perfectly. Details to come.

Carbon fiber side sills things mounted. 4" spacing on rivets probably excessive.
http://i.imgur.com/BVibkD4.jpg

Looks great is and very strong.
http://i.imgur.com/NJ3t4Cq.jpg

I should have the rest of the body pieces tonight. I am going to take most of tomorrow off, crank on it through the weekend, and have exhaust done Monday/Tuesday for the finish. SO CLOSE. I'm dreading getting the headlights in without scratching anything the most.

[shoeish]

Last night was rear bumper night.

Installed the grating. The chopsticks idea that somebody here on the forums had is just genius.
http://i.imgur.com/11Av4cl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/a1w5MVm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GpV7saa.jpg

The street spoiler fit like garbage and wasn't symmetrical at all. I put masking tape down, put it where I wanted it and drilled one 1/8" hole and held it with a cleco. From there I drew tiny lines (on top of more masking tape) and filed it down. I hated removing the clear coat from the edges of it but I had to for a good fit.

http://i.imgur.com/O4C2atA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HtVuINt.jpg


Fuel Filler:
On the left are the two pieces I removed from the FFR fuel neck and the pieces on the right are laid out how they will be attached. When welding on the vent hose bung make sure you know which way is the top (the threads are tapered) or you will have to redo it. The fuel tube is stainless steel.
http://i.imgur.com/W4Cy3FG.jpg

[shoeish]

Mounting of the diffuser:
http://i.imgur.com/VKb4XKv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MligRRr.jpg

I overlapped the front edge of it with the rear edge of the under engine cover. The strakes are spaced at 7" apart.

All my work earlier with the headlights paid off. They fit right in!
http://i.imgur.com/VXa03nT.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tEalPbx.jpg

[shoeish]

99.7% done. I actually got to burn up and down the street last night before I hid it away. It's fast and pretty awesome.
http://i.imgur.com/3ZPZTEe.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MNDcDxO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3I7nftq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/87qm7Kt.jpg

All that's left:
Front tow hook
A small wiring issue with the lights
Alignment
Mount rear plate
Mount passenger side mirror
Mount windshield for real (it's mocked up so I can get insurance)
Screw dash down

Then its done other than the wrap.

[Pearldrummer7]

Holy crap that is beautiful.

[Hindsight]

Love the black!

[mikeb75]

First Class! Great job finishing up.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

99.7% done. I actually got to burn up and down the street last night before I hid it away. It's fast and pretty awesome.


Looks great.
You can't be 99.7% done.
Every time we go to an autocross, we come home with a 5% list.
We went to our first track day and came home with a 10% list.

Our second 818 hasn't been touched since it has been warm enough to drive the first one.
Bob

[Mitch Wright]

Bob, we must be doing it all wrong, every time I work on the car I seem to add as many items as I cross off.

[Rasmus]

Looks great.
You can't be 99.7% done.
Every time we go to an autocross, we come home with a 5% list.
We went to our first track day and came home with a 10% list.

Sounds about right.

Years ago I had a project car I finished. It was the worst day. At 100% I never wanted to drive it for fear I'd break it.

[flynntuna]

Amazing! Just don't park next to my 818. Inevitably people will compare, and not give mine a second look. LOL

[Aero STI]

That looks epic! Great work!

[07FIREBLADE]

Glad your on the east coast. Can't park next to me. Congrats and it's looking amazing.

[shoeish]

Thanks everybody. Fun but frustrating, I will not be building a second one, that's for sure.


Looks great.
You can't be 99.7% done.
Every time we go to an autocross, we come home with a 5% list.
We went to our first track day and came home with a 10% list.

Our second 818 hasn't been touched since it has been warm enough to drive the first one.
Bob


I'm sure this is how it will go. To prove it, I'm doing a track day this Friday.

[R.Spec]

Holy crap that thing is gorgeous! Explain more on the chopstick idea if you don't mind!?

[shoeish]

I just used chopsticks to span the gap and then zip ties around the chopsticks, near the edges, to pull the metal into the black silicone. I'll snag a picture when I get home, have one more left.

[Sgt.Gator]

Beautiful car!

It was noted in another thread that the quick latches on the hood have failed for at least two owners and the hood flipped up. I'd hate to see your beautiful car have that problem!

Are you going to wheel to wheel race it?

[shoeish]

Beautiful car!

It was noted in another thread that the quick latches on the hood have failed for at least two owners and the hood flipped up. I'd hate to see your beautiful car have that problem!

Are you going to wheel to wheel race it?

On that note... I'm going to switch my very front quic-latches to hoodpins right away, thank you, ugliness be damned. I am not going to wheel to wheel race it, I am going to track day the hell out of it though.

The first drive went perfectly. I need to spend some time getting the brakes bedded and brake bias dialed in but other than that, PERFECT. It rides far better than expected, has zero rattles, and handles fairly well for my first try at alignment. Pictures to come, I was too excited to drive it to stop and take pictures.

[shoeish]

Glad your on the east coast. Can't park next to me. Congrats and it's looking amazing.

I'm actually in Wyoming, which is north of Colorado.

[RetroRacing]

I'm thinking the hood latch failure thing might be do to the air from the rad pushing up on the hood. We have NO air hitting the underside of the hood, or the firewall for that matter, as we have sealed the floor and the rad to the vents. Still not sure we want to risk it though.

[Rasmus]

I'm thinking the hood latch failure thing might be do to...
My hypothesis would be the pressure differential between the fast moving air on the top of the hood (middle section, and rear section on R's) and the virtually dead still air under the hood. Fast moving air drops the pressure while dead air is just at Atmo. pressure. Even if there's only a 0.5 psi of difference on an area 2ft by 3ft that's 432 lbs of force pushing up on the underside of the hood. (2 x 3 x 144 x 0.5)

[shoeish]

DONE* AND TRACK DAY!

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mea8J7OvhI

http://i.imgur.com/H9eF3Y1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/NYVxdH7.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/baiJqLu.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/m5BxZ9f.jpg

Overall success.

First session: Had time for two laps by the time I got unloaded and strapped in. Enough to work the suspension a little and bed the brakes.
Second session: Blew a boost tube on lap 3ish. Tow hook worked great.
Third session: Blew the coolant hose from the throttle body to the water pipe.
Fourth session: Overheated on lap 3 because bubble
Fifth session: Overheated on lap 5 because bubble

Car sounds great. Suspension out of the box, thanks to SCR Performance's alignment, was pretty damn good. It needs a little rear rebound, rear brake bias to stabilize it under braking. It has a lot of mid corner understeer but I think that's because of the LSD. I can apply full power (on the wastegate tune, 340whp) coming out of the corner, it lays it down right until track out where it steps out a bit and goes. Fifth gear is too tall, but with the 17psi tune (365whp and much more midrange) I'll have the torque to overcome it.

Goals for next time are to make it stable and fun. Lap times aren't the most important to me with this car.

http://i.imgur.com/EG113Y3.jpg

[STiPWRD]

Awesome video! How fast were those straights?

[shoeish]

Whatever 5500rpm in 5th gear with 4.11's and those tires is. I'm guessing ~130mph.

[Hindsight]

Very cool!!

[Mitch Wright]

car looks great and congrats on your first laps.

[SixStar]

Whatever 5500rpm in 5th gear with 4.11's and those tires is. I'm guessing ~130mph.

215/45-17?

With the RA set we did you should be at 115-120mph.

[shoeish]

215/45-17?

With the RA set we did you should be at 115-120mph.

5th was a stock .7xx gear.

[shoeish]

A quick acceleration video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVAGDWvlZoc

[Skies388]

Shoeish great looking build. Off the wall question, do you know what it measures nose to tail? I am looking for a project and I have specific trailer length I am trying to meet. Thanks

[shoeish]

Shoeish great looking build. Off the wall question, do you know what it measures nose to tail? I am looking for a project and I have specific trailer length I am trying to meet. Thanks

157" length
95" wheel base
71" max width (at tail)

AUTOCROSS!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsRuW_SktpI

[FFRSpec72]

Did you just weld/bolt your rear tow hook to the rear of the transmission frame ?

[shoeish]

Did you just weld/bolt your rear tow hook to the rear of the transmission frame ?

It's bolted through the bumper, transmission frame, and splitter.

[bbjones121]

How did you compare with the Ariel atom?

[shoeish]

How did you compare with the Ariel atom?

He had the Atom 3S and insane aero, he was also on brand new hoosiers and I was only on my Dunlop Star Specs... I only beat him by 1.8 seconds. :)

[bbjones121]

He had the Atom 3S and insane aero, he was also on brand new hoosiers and I was only on my Dunlop Star Specs... I only beat him by 1.8 seconds. :)

Ha-ha�� nice.

[Sgt.Gator]

Any updates on the beautiful build?

[shoeish]

Any updates on the beautiful build?

Thank you for the compliment. :D

Not too much has been done to it since the end of this thread. The two track days weren't especially successful and it understeers like a pig at autocross. Since then I've just done some street driving and have not developed it to be the track monster I wanted at all. Been busy with Chumpcar and other life!

[Sgt.Gator]

Dang, sorry to hear that.

[walt555]

I remember some one grinding out the upright in the front for more camber. Think they ended like about 2.5 or 2.7 static camber. Think they also had some spacers on the lower aluminum control arm for more caster 6 to 7degrees. Hope this helps.

[Brd.Prey]

Wouldn't a rear swaybar reduce his understeer?

[Mitch Wright]

I have not Autocrossed my car so don't have anything to add here. But on track my car doesn't have an understeer problem with the set up on the car.
2.6 front camber
6* caster
0 toe
350# spring
3/4 OD .095 front sway bar
3.5" ride height
2.75 rear camber
3/16 toe in
500# springs
3.75 ride height
A number of other R's that are running have been using higher spring rates 400-550 front and 600-700 rear without sway bars with success. Personally I have found the softer spring rates and front bar work well for me.

[Hobby Racer]

Mitch - those settings are almost identical to my setup. As you noted I run the higher spring rates and no sway bar. I run very smooth high speed tracks so the high spring rates keep the downforce in check.

[shoeish]

Mitch - those settings are almost identical to my setup. As you noted I run the higher spring rates and no sway bar. I run very smooth high speed tracks so the high spring rates keep the downforce in check.

What cooling setups are you running and are you running into any overheating issues?

Thanks!

[Hobby Racer]

What cooling setups are you running and are you running into any overheating issues?

Thanks!

I run a custom dual pass aluminum radiator that is fully sealed to the front opening. I also run a oil to water oil cooler, no heat issues what so ever. Check out my build thread for more details. Cooling stuff starts here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build&p=289160&viewfull=1#post289160).

[subysouth]

Just incredible attention to detail and execution. Beautiful car. You do fine work sir.

ss