View Full Version : Drivers seat Adjustable rails
Real time recon
11-01-2015, 03:05 PM
I have the stock "short back" seats on my
Factory 5 cobra.Which of these Rails will work ? Thanks .... http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/seat-rails
Real time recon
11-02-2015, 07:26 AM
Factory 5 sells this style but there out of stock.>>> http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/driver-side-seat-track-kit/
Phoenixmsb
11-02-2015, 09:06 AM
Either of those will work. Actually better than the FF one due to the fact that they are tied together in the front and won't be out of sync.
cgundermann
11-02-2015, 10:16 PM
I know/have heard that there is a lot of various brackets that will work. I am getting close to doing this for my driver's seat only and hope to see more member input.
skullandbones
11-03-2015, 09:49 AM
You might consider something that will simplify the process a little. I did it and found it better for getting my seats placed perfectly before actually committing to drilling holes. I mounted the sliders (got them at Summit. Check their prices) exactly where they would mount easiest considering the mounting points on the roadster. Then I cut out a 3/4 inch piece of plywood to fit the underside of the seat. I mounted the plywood to the sliders after they were positioned and tested for forward and backward locations. Then I mocked up the seat on the plywood with a couple of wood screws. I moved the position several times during the process to get the seat angled and positioned front to rear and side to side. After the testing, I mounted the seat to the plywood with through bolts and then reinstalled the whole thing. It takes an extra step to do this but the reward is putting the seat exactly where you need it to be for your body type. I actually wanted the extra 3/4 inch raised seat for a little more leg comfort. My only issue was I put more layers of insulation in the cockpit so I caused the sliders to have less clearance under the seat than designed. I will have to remove some of that insulation just under the slider mechanism to get smooth action. However, that isn't a major problem since I very rarely move the seat. It is nice to be able to clean behind the seat though.
Good luck,
WEK.
cgundermann
11-03-2015, 10:14 AM
Great idea! You always have such good/sound advice...
boat737
02-26-2016, 11:05 AM
You might consider something that will simplify the process a little. I did it and found it better for getting my seats placed perfectly before actually committing to drilling holes. I mounted the sliders (got them at Summit. Check their prices) ....
WEK.
Do you have the Summit Part No. for those seat rails? And they add only 3/4" height? Thanks.
BEAR-AvHistory
02-26-2016, 11:48 AM
Got mine from JEGS #555-70220 - Looks the same as Summit #ALL98100. Under $30. If you get these recommend you replace the connecting wire with a heavier piece. about 3/4" tall
EDIT: Installed them from the top using rivet nuts to anchor them to the floor. Worked out well & added getting another set to my TODO list for the passenger seat
WIS89
02-26-2016, 12:12 PM
RTR-
Any reason you are using the Australian eBay? Shipping might change the economics a bit; certainly the timeliness!
I am with Kevin (Bear-AvHistory) and WEK about the Jegs (or Summit) units or similar. Plenty of good choices, and known quality and customer support/service.
Regards,
Steve
BigUgly
02-29-2016, 12:37 PM
Bear-AvHistory,
Do you have to use the rails that jegs has 555-70225, or do you mount the sliders right to the floor. If you do mount right to the floor is there interference from the carpet?
Thanks
BigUgly
BEAR-AvHistory
02-29-2016, 03:55 PM
They are right on the floor. The mounts raise the seat to high. No issue with the carpet. Way I did the setup was cut a piece of steel stock from Home Depot to sit under the runners.
The steel lays flat on the floor & is held down with rivet nuts. The tracks are bolted to the steel stock using the studs that are attached to the tracks at the factory. These studs are a little long so I bolted them to the steel then used a angle cutter to trim then off flush with the nuts. If you need any clearance just use washers as shims to raise the tracks above the steel plate.
Last step was to bolt the plates with the seat attached to the rivet nuts.
If my description is too convoluted will take some pictures :D
BigUgly
02-29-2016, 05:53 PM
BEAR-AvHistory,
Your explanation was fine. Thank you for that information.
BigUgly
acth4347
03-01-2016, 01:17 PM
I wouldn't mind seeing a picture or two. Is the steel a large plate or two strips? Does it/they sit flush on the floor or are the seat nuts in the way?
Thanks, Bill
BEAR-AvHistory
03-01-2016, 02:16 PM
Was a single sheet from the Home Depot metal pile. Roughly 12X18. Actual length can be longer than 18". I wanted them long enough so I could easily get to the place where I was putting the rivet nuts in by just moving the seat along the track. Used hex key style heads grade 8 bolts for this part. I had to trim the outside rear corner of the outside piece to fit the section where the cockpit wall angles in behind the door frame.
I just ripped it down the middle into two 6" pieces with an edge cutter. Cleaned it up & rounded the corners with a bench grinder wheel then hit them front & back with black truck bed liner rattle can spray.
The nuts, with plastic lock rings, when the extra stud length is cutoff sink into the carpet & under padding. They are not very big to start with.
Granddaughter bagged my cameras storage chip, will post pictures later today.
I have a set from Speedway, but I haven't fabricated any mounting for them yet. I'll detail it in my build thread when I get to that point.
BEAR-AvHistory
03-01-2016, 05:42 PM
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=53062
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=13669&pictureid=53063
If you have any clearance issues with the mechanism you can add washers between the bottom of the track & the metal plate. I also put in a heavier wire as the return springs are pretty strong.