First 818 COUPE build

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Lady and Gentlemen,
The forum has been a little slow for a couple of days. Maybe this will pick it up.

Lance is another builder near Cincinnati, He got his 818C a couple of weeks ago. I believe it might be the first in a customer's hands.

Here is his introduction:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19033-Lance-s-818C-build-in-Hamersville-Ohio&p=213117&viewfull=1#post213117

Michael and I stopped at his workshop today to see the Coupe.
I will just post a bunch of pictures and let you guys have at it.
Let me know if someone wants me to post a higher resolution picture. Or send me a pm with email address and I will send you full resolution.

Bob

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[Bob_n_Cincy]

Some more pictures
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[Bob_n_Cincy]

Even more pictures
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[STiPWRD]

Good man Bob, some fine detective work! So does the new front end need a new nose frame or can the brackets be bolted on? and pics with the front insert piece between the fenders? I checked the FFR parts website on Friday and they still haven't posted the front end parts for existing 818 customers. I might try giving them a call.

[Hindsight]

Nice! Thanks for sharing Bob. Looking forward to watching this one come together.

[Mechie3]

There's a guy in Indy 2 minutes from my work that go his coupe on Thursday. I'm going to go check it out sometime this week. I think he said he was the 7th Coupe? Any pics of the headlight assemblies?

[AZPete]

Bob, thanks. I've studied the photos carefully because I've preordered the coupe top for my 818S.
Do you know if the builder, Lance, requested a black top, or is that the only choice?
The door frame is totally different so perhaps the coupe top will include this new door frame? Do you know if the door skins are the same?
What headlights are included and can they be aligned? That's been my problem with the Camry lights.
Is the windshield mount the same with 2 bolts per side into the chassis tabs?
Are the rear hatch hinges included?
How is the window glass installed? Need pro like windshield glass or is that DIY?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Good man Bob, some fine detective work! So does the new front end need a new nose frame or can the brackets be bolted on? and pics with the front insert piece between the fenders? I checked the FFR parts website on Friday and they still haven't posted the front end parts for existing 818 customers. I might try giving them a call.

The coupe nose steel comes with some tabs for bolting on some fender supports.
I do not know if a retrofit nose package will come with a new nose steel or just that tabs that will need welding.


There's a guy in Indy 2 minutes from my work that go his coupe on Thursday. I'm going to go check it out sometime this week. I think he said he was the 7th Coupe? Any pics of the headlight assemblies?

The Headlight assemblies were backordered. But he did have some really nice/expensive looking Hella projectors that came with the kit.


Bob, thanks. I've studied the photos carefully because I've preordered the coupe top for my 818S.
Do you know if the builder, Lance, requested a black top, or is that the only choice?
The door frame is totally different so perhaps the coupe top will include this new door frame? Do you know if the door skins are the same?
What headlights are included and can they be aligned? That's been my problem with the Camry lights.
Is the windshield mount the same with 2 bolts per side into the chassis tabs?
Are the rear hatch hinges included?
How is the window glass installed? Need pro like windshield glass or is that DIY?

I don't know if he ordered Black or if there was a choice.
The door skins are the same. The new door frame is for the electric windows.
I didn't get the part number for the Hella projectors. As he didn't have the buckets, I can't answer the question about adjustability.
Windshield mount is the same.
Yes, rear hatch hinges and gas tubes are included.
He has the windshield, same instillation.
The door glass, quarter window, and hatch glass were back ordered. It looks to me like similar installation as the windshield.

His nose grill was also backordered.

Bob

[bbjones121]

Awesome. Thanks for posting. Can't wait to get my hardtop.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

In one of the pictures above, I forgot to mention how good the roof mated with the rear bumper.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46868&d=1445883437

[RM1SepEx]

interesting color match on the gel coat...

[redfogo]

I have a feeling that its not an option on the color its standard. In their email they sent about how they updated the top it was also black in that picture. I also was never given the option when I made my order on the 818c. I would say though, for anyone making an order on just the tops a black top will look better with any color car versus shipping out a red top to everyone with an S. That's my guess at least

[Canadian818]

They also mentioned there were mild parting lines and the top will require body work. Unlike the rest of the body of course :p

[Bob_n_Cincy]

They also mentioned there were mild parting lines and the top will require body work. Unlike the rest of the body of course :p
The new nose has parting lines that will need to be removed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46896&d=1445896854

I'm sure the cobra guys will lets us know how to clean these up.
Bob

[Frank818]

Nice body fitting!! That's a no-work body! lolll

I hope those (like me) oredering (some day!) the new front nose for retrofit will have those super expensive hella projectors with.

[AZPete]

Bob, you said the top mates nicely with the trunk but I also noticed how well it fits with the side pieces (side sails). Good job FFR.
Hey, Craig, when you visit the coupe in Indy can you get a photo or two of the roof? In Bob's shots the hood was on the roof.
I hope to get the call soon about my coupe top production date.

[lance corsi]

Hey everybody, that's my car! And it does fit very well. One thing that helps is the fact that there are fewer pieces to align. I just pinned down the hood and fenders today and my intent was to align the fender crease with the door crease (body lines), which works out pretty good. The door ends up flush with its opening and the bottom follows the body line on the sill. I don't know if this is what FFR intended but they seem to leave lots to the builder's discretion. That's my take anyway.

[blkstig]

yay. I've been waiting for coupe builds to come around.

[svanlare]

Thank you for the photos. I'm going to actually finish my S before I think about putting too much new scope in the mix :-) but thrilled to see the start of a Coupe build in the mix on the forum and will watch with a lot of interest in what is different about the nose, top and in particular doors.

[Frank818]

I believe those parting lines can be simply buffed out?

[RM1SepEx]

I believe those parting lines can be simply buffed out?

The coupe and cobra guys do a ton of work to the parting line areas...

[Erik W. Treves]

I believe those parting lines can be simply buffed out?

umm.... NO! :)

[Hindsight]

Yeah, if it's anything like the cobra guys, you need to knock the flashing down, then use a bright light under the seams to find voids or pockets and dig those out. Then fill with body filler and sand. Some guys use resin to fill the larger voids. Rage Gold filler is extremely popular.

[PilotJO]

I believe those parting lines can be simply buffed out?

All depends upon one's definition of "buffed out" now doesn't it! LOL

[lance corsi]

Yeah, if it's anything like the cobra guys, you need to knock the flashing down, then use a bright light under the seams to find voids or pockets and dig those out. Then fill with body filler and sand. Some guys use resin to fill the larger voids. Rage Gold filler is extremely popular.
Thanks for the info everyone. Looks like my bodywork is going to be relative to whenever FFR releases : door glass,grill insert, front street splitter and inner door panels
I don't know how the door glass is supposed to seal well enough to eliminate huge amounts of wind related noises. No channel to seal to or to house a seal, no window trim for window slots, not even a template for the slot. I'll figure something out.

[Canadian818]

I don't know how the door glass is supposed to seal well enough to eliminate huge amounts of wind related noises. No channel to seal to or to house a seal, no window trim for window slots, not even a template for the slot. I'll figure something out.

Thats unfortunate. It appears to be a theme with the 818, but from what I understand it's still light years ahead of other kits out there. I expect some builders, perhaps yourself, will fill in what FFR left out for the rest of us. That's what I love about this community! Enjoy your build, post pics.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks for the info everyone. Looks like my bodywork is going to be relative to whenever FFR releases : door glass,grill insert, front street splitter and inner door panels
I don't know how the door glass is supposed to seal well enough to eliminate huge amounts of wind related noises. No channel to seal to or to house a seal, no window trim for window slots, not even a template for the slot. I'll figure something out.


Thats unfortunate. It appears to be a theme with the 818, but from what I understand it's still light years ahead of other kits out there. I expect some builders, perhaps yourself, will fill in what FFR left out for the rest of us. That's what I love about this community! Enjoy your build, post pics.

Before jumping to conclusions:
Somebody out at SEMA will take pictures of the window seals.
FFR said one of the delays they had was to get the window seal right.
Bob

[Mechie3]

That fender alignment bracket looks heavy.

Can I get some measurements of the front subframe? Mostly interested in how far back it is from the hood lip and how far down from the hood lip. That's the bar I use to mount my front hood hinge. I modeled a concept for the coupe hinge tonight using the existing 818S subframe and hood lip location to estimate the top of the nose mesh. It looks like the subframe might have moved up a bit though.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

That fender alignment bracket looks heavy.

Can I get some measurements of the front subframe? Mostly interested in how far back it is from the hood lip and how far down from the hood lip. That's the bar I use to mount my front hood hinge. I modeled a concept for the coupe hinge tonight using the existing 818S subframe and hood lip location to estimate the top of the nose mesh. It looks like the subframe might have moved up a bit though.

Craig,
From my eyeball view, the main dimension of the front frame have not changed. I also think the hood has not changed.
Bob

[Mechie3]

Hey, Craig, when you visit the coupe in Indy can you get a photo or two of the roof? In Bob's shots the hood was on the roof.

http://i.imgur.com/Kypj6PB.jpg

[Courtnie Provencher]

I'm excited to see what personal touches you're gonna put on your 818. Following build threads is a blast and I can't wait to see what you come out with! Let us know if you need anything or have any questions :)

[DrunkenSailor]

I don't know how the door glass is supposed to seal well enough to eliminate huge amounts of wind related noises. No channel to seal to or to house a seal, no window trim for window slots, not even a template for the slot. I'll figure something out.

Before jumping to conclusions:
Somebody out at SEMA will take pictures of the window seals.
FFR said one of the delays they had was to get the window seal right.
Bob]

I'll be checking this out at SEMA, I'll try to get some pictures.

[DrunkenSailor]

From Rear
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Window Closed
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Door Open
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Creased At Corner
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It appears that when the window is closed, it seals pretty well, my only concern looking at it here is the crease to make the corner at the upper rear of the window.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

He had to reconfigure the radiator mount for a different style radiator. Also added front bumper.

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[bbjones121]

He had to reconfigure the radiator mount for a different style radiator. Also added front bumper.

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Looks great.

[Frank818]

Nice work!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Lance took more pictures of the first coupe build.
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[Bob_n_Cincy]

Stopped by Lance's shop today and took some pictures.

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[Hindsight]

Wow, he's getting after it. What's that reinforcing on the hood?

[TouchStone]

How did you add the support to the hood?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Wow, he's getting after it. What's that reinforcing on the hood?


How did you add the support to the hood?

Balsa sandwiched in fiberglass.

[BN]

Hi lance are you installing the wiper kit?

[BN]

Hi lance are you installing the wiper kit?

Or Bob n Cincy

[Hindsight]

Nice, I want to do the same thing to the hood.

[lance corsi]

How did you add the support to the hood?

I simply went to my local auto parts store and bought a siamesed tube of panel adhesive(2 part epoxy) to glue the balsa wood to the hood bottom. 50 grit sandpaper to prep, then fit the wood. I sawed grooves in the planks 4/5 of the way through, allowing the wood to conform to the contour of the hood. After gluing the wood to the hood, I filled the saw grooves with the same panel adhesive, effectively locking in the contours. After all that, another round of 50 grit in prep for the fiberglass. 3 layers of glass cloth & resin completed the job. It's so stiff now, it's unbelievable.

[lance corsi]

Hi lance are you installing the wiper kit?

The supplied wiper kit requires trimming of the hood. This doesn't appeal to me, so I may seek an alternate method of operation which allows the hood to remain untouched.

[Hindsight]

Thx for the details. Would not have thought to make the contour slits.... clever!!

[Loring]

Lance, if you're able to, can you get a photo pf what the new style headlamps look like when they're lit up?

Thanks. :)

[Coolspot]

Lance, if you're able to, can you get a photo pf what the new style headlamps look like when they're lit up?

Thanks. :)

Yep, would like to see them

[BN]

The supplied wiper kit requires trimming of the hood. This doesn't appeal to me, so I may seek an alternate method of operation which allows the hood to remain untouched.

I was thinking maybe use that piece put it over fix it with somme fiber glass it will be like a hump

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey everybody
Lance sent me a bunch of pictures, I'll post the body mods tonight.

He opened up the side vents and filled in the original fuel filler opening. I think these side vents will bring twice the air into the engine compartment.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48817&d=1450759219


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48820&d=1450759222


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48816&d=1450759218


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48818&d=1450759220


Here is an awesome look at the new nose.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48819&d=1450759221

He is funneling all the frontal air into his radiator.
He sent me a bunch of pictures, I'll post some each day.

[bbjones121]

Awesome thanks for photos

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Here is sme of Lance's gas Tank pictures.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48834&d=1450808567

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48835&d=1450808568

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48836&d=1450808569

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48837&d=1450808570

Frame mods will be next!!!

[bbjones121]

Was the fiberglass just bent in to open those ducts up more? I want to do this also and was wondering if the fiberglass will just destress over time/ sitting in sun.

[Kurk818]

Was the fiberglass just bent in to open those ducts up more? I want to do this also and was wondering if the fiberglass will just destress over time/ sitting in sun.

My experience with fiberglass and putting it under stress like this is that it will eventually conform to the bend and will not have any forces to worry about.

[Lumpyguy]

LOL, Looks just like what I did, It makes it look much nicer. cool

[Aero STI]

That gas tank is a great design. How many gallons does it hold?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

If I recall correctly, It is 13 gallons.
Lance designed the tank and Boyd welding manufactured it.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Do you guys like pictures full size or as thumbnails that you can click on?

Front Bumper frame design
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Windshield mount with locator bracket.
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Large single fan wit custom shroud
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Custom mount of rear side sails.
Lance added bars along all body seams.
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Rear bumper for safety and to meet Ohio's code.
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Lance used a single bar for the shock cross bar.
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Front bumper for safety and to meet Ohio's code.
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Lance reminds me of Wayne and Erik building the first 818S. They were setting the bar pretty high.
Bob

[lance corsi]

Was the fiberglass just bent in to open those ducts up more? I want to do this also and was wondering if the fiberglass will just destress over time/ sitting in sun.

I just slit the side sail along body line and then cut some sticks to wedge the opening to the desired width. Leave the sticks in until fiberglass sets up.
I did structural glassing from back side, finishing up the cosmetics on the outside.

[lance corsi]

I just slit the side sail along body line and then cut some sticks to wedge the opening to the desired width. Leave the sticks in until fiberglass sets up.
I did structural glassing from back side, finishing up the cosmetics on the outside.

Bob is correct. The modified openings are roughly twice as wide as stock. They now measure ~4" at top and ~2" at bottom.

[STiPWRD]

Very nice work on the frame mods

[flynntuna]

Lance, do you have a need for your shock crossbar? I'm in need of one since mine is missing. One of the hazards when buying an unfinished project.:(

[flynntuna]

How much adjustability have you built into your body mounts? Are you doing all the body mounting and fitting first? I was wondering if getting this done first would keep the inevitable dust from getting Ito everything.

[matteo92065]

I also like the frame modifications/additions. You've added some stuff that I would have copied 8 months ago.

Edit: I like the thumbnail pictures. Faster loading.

[Hindsight]

Great idea on the locator bracket for the windshield.

[lance corsi]

I would like for you to have my stock shock bar. Pay for shipping. It really isn't much to look at. Looks like a beginner tried to weld it. Lots of ground off welds makes it look bush league. Plus its twice as heavy as the bar I replaced it with.

[lance corsi]

Great idea on the locator bracket for the windshield.

Looks like FFR could easily cut these pieces when cutting a-pillar lowers. Just my " builder's discretion" to do mine this way. I have no idea if others are doing this already.

[lance corsi]

How much adjustability have you built into your body mounts? Are you doing all the body mounting and fitting first? I was wondering if getting this done first would keep the inevitable dust from getting Ito everything.

I've slotted the brackets that I welded to the chassis, allowing about .75 of adjustability. Did you see the steel strips I bent to conform to the under side of the fender lip? To thus strip I welded an angle bracket with a single 1\4-20 x 1" bolt which connects my fender to the chassis bracket. I have two such connections per fender. This makes the body panels very quick and easy to remove and reinstall.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Lance started working on the rear body.
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[Bob_n_Cincy]

Here is some of Lance's work on the license plate mounting.

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[EODTech87]

What modifications were required in order to get that gas tank to fit?

[lance corsi]

What modifications were required in order to get that gas tank to fit?

No mods necessary. I designed it to fit between frame members. Its also notched in the rear to allow for brake master cylinder clearance. Because of the triangular shape,fuel slosh is minimized. I did however make a riser for the filler cap to raise it above the frame members to facilitate fueling.

[Samiam1017]

whos frenched license plate kit is that?

[lance corsi]

whos frenched license plate kit is that?

Superior Glass Works. $27 plus shipping. You will receive only the box. I've added the flange myself. When finished there will be a piece of 1\8" th plexiglass to cover the box. It will be flush with the rear panel.

[EODTech87]

How much did it cost for them to build it and are you willing to share the data so if anyone wants to order one we can?

[lance corsi]

How much did it cost for them to build it and are you willing to share the data so if anyone wants to order one we can?

Sure I'll share it with you. Boyds should have it on file tho. You really should look it over very close because I designed it for my application. Will wood brake pedals, plus I've redesigned my front radiator framework and am not using the supplied shifter cables. This all makes a difference. Pm me your email address and I'll send out a jpeg of my drawing. You can compare and modify where necessary.

[Bruce Almighty]

Subscribed, want to see the evolution.

[bzoli]

as you did the hood reinforcement how did you make sure you reinforced the hood is in the proper position? So you don't end up with a reinforced hood which is twisted or bent?


I simply went to my local auto parts store and bought a siamesed tube of panel adhesive(2 part epoxy) to glue the balsa wood to the hood bottom. 50 grit sandpaper to prep, then fit the wood. I sawed grooves in the planks 4/5 of the way through, allowing the wood to conform to the contour of the hood. After gluing the wood to the hood, I filled the saw grooves with the same panel adhesive, effectively locking in the contours. After all that, another round of 50 grit in prep for the fiberglass. 3 layers of glass cloth & resin completed the job. It's so stiff now, it's unbelievable.

[lance corsi]

as you did the hood reinforcement how did you make sure you reinforced the hood is in the proper position? So you don't end up with a reinforced hood which is twisted or bent?

When you cut the grooves in the wood, this will allow them to conform to the hood curvature. Before filling saw cuts with epoxy, find a large cardboard box and lay it on its side. Push on the large flat until it has a slight dish. This will cradle the hood when you lay it on top of the box. Once the epoxy is put in the saw cuts, this will lock the hood into its natural contours. After the saw cut epoxy cures, it should have enough torsional rigidity to resist warping until the glass work is finished.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Some pictures from Lance

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Lance is adding a roll bar around the windshield frame. With 2 bars going down the middle of the car.

[RM1SepEx]

Very nice!

[129st]

I think you have built the first 818 with a halo cage. Great to see further 818 development documented. (note to Chad P.... would you have felt safe in this for wheel to wheel racing?)

[lance corsi]

I think you have built the first 818 with a halo cage. Great to see further 818 development documented. (note to Chad P.... would you have felt safe in this for wheel to wheel racing?)

Yes, I've looked around a little and am surprised that nobody racing has built such a modification. My reason for doing this is strictly for my own safety. I'm not long to race the car buy I just can't get used to having only the fiberglass a pillars as protection from a frontal impact. We have a crazy amount of deer in Ohio and I really don't want one in my lap. That plus rollover protection, then add in that the car will be one of the smallest on the road and there you have it.
The roll bar wouldn't pass muster with any race sanctioning body anyway, since its constructed from dom tubing and mandrel bent elbows, sectioned and welded. Just trying to increase my comfort level.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I have a few more pictures to post from Lance.

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[Bob_n_Cincy]

A couple of pictures from Lance.

Radiator express. Fits '08 thru "12 Kawasaki 250, 350, 450, 500 water cooled bikes. I'm using one for my awic and the other one for an oil cooler. That's my plan anyway.

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Lance
Are you going to circulate coolant through one of these radiators and then through the factory heat exchanger at the base of the oil filter?
Bob

[lance corsi]

A couple of pictures from Lance.

Radiator express. Fits '08 thru "12 Kawasaki 250, 350, 450, 500 water cooled bikes. I'm using one for my awic and the other one for an oil cooler. That's my plan anyway.

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Lance
Are you going to circulate coolant through one of these radiators and then through the factory heat exchanger at the base of the oil filter?
Bob

Yes. That's the plan.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'll post the pictures and let Lance add the comments.
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[Hindsight]

Interesting.... I get the point of the extension but wonder how risky that will be given that the pan is going to be sitting a fair amount lower than the frame, unless the engine is raised.....

[Mechie3]

A swivel pickup! Nice! He woudl probably want a skid plate for sure.

[longislandwrx]

That's a lot of hot coolant in the passenger floor. I guess you are going to build some sort of foot plate to cover and insulate?

[lance corsi]

It's pretty self explanatory. I used a stock pan, cut just below the bottom baffle, taking into consideration the angle of the engine, the resulting cut being parallel with the bottom of the car, or just slightly low towards the rear. I then constructed the pickup from 4130 chromalloy steel, braced with 1/8 X 1 hot rolled steel. Bushings were made from 932 bronze, pickup swivel and tube were constructed from 6061 aluminum. Pan mods were made with 16 gage crs, tig welded. I designed this to fit within the boundaries beneath the 818.
You will notice a pendulum weight, located just above the pickup tube. This is to make the movement more responsive. The pendulum weight is indirectly connected to the pickup tube to reduce weight of actual pickup, thus extending bushing life. The pendulum weight swings between the two baffles within the oil pan. The baffles were notched in order to be able to assemble pan onto engine with pickup tube mounted and to allow all elements to swing freely. Form follows function. The bottom of the pan is on plane with the bottom of the car. I plan to raise the engine slightly to allow for a skid plate beneath the oil pan. Possibly as much as 1/2 inch.
There are other elements to my lubrication system, such as a discreet heat exchanger and oil cooler, with a sandwich plate and remote filter mount. I hope this gives some of you an idea or two. I certainly wasn't willing to shell out the big $ for a dry sump system. I think this may be an acceptable solution for most of the 818 crowd.

[Aero STI]

That pan design is awesome! Great work.

[Blwalker105]

Hey Lance, do you have your seats installed yet? Before I commit to a similar halo roll bar setup, I kinda want to test sit yours to see how it feels.

Bill

[Mitch Wright]

I must say Lance your oil pan and pick up is very clever.

[lance corsi]

Thank you, Mitch. I hope it works as anticipated. I have lots of mods to my car, so I'm going to have some fun fettling things out.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Lance's did a he!! of a job putting corvette suspension in his 818C.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62509&d=1483564260

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62510&d=1483564261

[ben1272]

nice! That is one strange looking lower rear arm!

[bbjones121]

Lance's did a he!! of a job putting corvette suspension in his 818C.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62509&d=1483564260

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62510&d=1483564261

Just curious if there was specific reason(s) to use Corvette suspension? Better geometry? More wheel options?

[Frank818]

Just curious if there was specific reason(s) to use Corvette suspension? Better geometry? More wheel options?

I second those questions.

[lance corsi]

Better geometry, of course. Both front and rear were used for wheel compatibility, parts ordering, strength, and light weight.
The front suspension of the Subaru was designed for MacPherson struts, adapted to ball joint pivot, which is a huge compromise right out of the box. Also, the UCA sent by FFR is so short that it causes huge camber and toe changes throughout its travel, thus the bump steer. I did not incorporate the anti-dive tho, because of the light weight of the forward section of the car. Not necessary. IMO.

[Frank818]

I understand theory-wise. But in practical terms, what does it mean? How will you feel the difference?

That you'll lap 1sec faster?
That it'll be smoother, more stable and quicker to respond on the street? (assume bump steer has been taken care of on the FFR suspension so there is no bump steer as well as none with your Vette's susp)
Did we all buy a bad car?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I understand theory-wise. But in practical terms, what does it mean? How will you feel the difference?

That you'll lap 1sec faster?
That it'll be smoother, more stable and quicker to respond on the street? (assume bump steer has been taken care of on the FFR suspension so there is no bump steer as well as none with your Vette's susp)
Did we all buy a bad car?

Frank, I think the best answer to your questions are. The same reason you went to the VW engine. "YOU WANTED TO."

[lance corsi]

We all bought an inexpensive car, not necessarily a bad car. If it serves your needs or desires, then mission accomplished. I personally wanted a bit more out of this car, so I opted for this route. My buddy made a suggestion that I do this, and it took me a while to study the feasibility and warm to the idea, but I'm glad I did it. It was lots of work, lots of head scratching, lots of calculating, and a fair amount of cad work to figure it out. 12 weeks on front setup, 8 weeks on rear.

[Frank818]

and it took me a while to study the feasibility and warm to the idea, but I'm glad I did it. It was lots of work, lots of head scratching, lots of calculating, and a fair amount of cad work to figure it out. 12 weeks on front setup, 8 weeks on rear.

That is SO easy to understand. :)

[gpaterson]

Some pictures from Lance

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Lance is adding a roll bar around the windshield frame. With 2 bars going down the middle of the car.

Do you have drawn plans for the windscreen frame and middle bars? Is it FIA or the US equivalent race approved? I really like the added safety it provides.

[lance corsi]

Nope, just did it for my protection.

[GUNS]

Anxious to see how the cage works with the roof on. I've been thinking about doing something like this in the future.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I was over at Lance's shop today getting some machine work done.
I needed some machine work done at 3pm Sunday afternoon. By 4:30 it was done. Thanks Lance, I owe you one.
I took a few pictures while I was there.
Bob
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[Tarmac]

Lance is a master fabricator, I love it.

[lance corsi]

It's been a while since I posted so I thought I'd put my 2 cents worth out there. Been watching the posts and I would like to commend everyone who undertakes a task like this, and especially those who finish. I hit it hard on my build for about 16 months, then I hit a wall. I took the better part of 2017 off to just relax but now I'm back and going at it.
Some things I really like about the 818 are these: it doesn't try to be something it's not. I like that it is mid engine. I like rear wheel drive std shift cars. I like my hard top. I like the idea of having loads of fun and still get decent mpg. I like that it's made in the US. I like the general body shape. I like the performance levels achievable.
Now, the things I think FFR should fix are: Add 1"to the overall wheel base in front of the front bulkhead, 2" in the cabin length. Angle roll bar rearwards, giving more seat reclinability. Raise motor mounts to correct oiling issues. Offer solid shifter linkage from shifter to trans. Fix the fuel tank problems. Supply 3 fluid reservoirs for the wilwood pedal assy. Offer bumpers for those building in states that require them.
So, what do you all think?

[flynntuna]

Great to see you back at it. I really like following your build. Your points on overall wheelbase and cabin length are good ones, even with moving back the rear firewall by using the Boyd tank it is still a pretty tight fit, and I'm barely 6' tall. I feel for those over 6'. Three fluid reservoirs for the Wilwood pedals you'd think would be a no brainier, I bought a tilton reservoir from summit. As far as bumpers, not sure what each state would require. That seems more like something an outside vendor could come up with.

I am very happy with the midengine layout, if FFR didn't come up with the 818 I'd probably be building a Porsche 914 or something pre '75 to get around Calif 's smog laws.

[phil1734]

Some quick thoughts in addition to yours:

-Raise the roll bar height by 2 inches.

-Properly triangulate said roll hoop back into the car, rather than having it sitting on top of a box tube.

-Add some sort of protection in front of the motor to prevent it from ending up in the fuel tank and passenger's spine in case of a rear impact.

-Add adjustability for 4.5-6" of ground clearance for S/C models.

-Make the hood/front fenders/nose a one piece clamshell like the Daytona Coupe.

-Move the steering rack to the proper location to minimize bump-steer on S/C models.

-Make all the fasteners metric.

-Shorten the front overhang by 3-4 inches.

P.S. The careful observer will notice that none of these would have cost any additional funds or time had they been done correctly the first time, with the exception of an additional 2" box tube in front of the motor.