fixing dash location

[chopthebass]

I am a little confused by the wording in the manual. I positioned the dash so the it is 3/16 above the corners of the 3/4" frame. The shape of the aluminum doesn't match the curved 3/4" tube, and therefore at the mid-point the height is less than the sides. Hard to explain. I tool some blurry pics! Also you can see the 3/4" tube across the top of the speedo hole. What's the best way to fix the location?

http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh562/cobra427427/Cobra%20Build/IMG_3856_zpswphzl2jo.jpg (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/cobra427427/media/Cobra%20Build/IMG_3856_zpswphzl2jo.jpg.html)

http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh562/cobra427427/Cobra%20Build/IMG_3857_zpsalmkifmd.jpg (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/cobra427427/media/Cobra%20Build/IMG_3857_zpsalmkifmd.jpg.html)

http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh562/cobra427427/Cobra%20Build/IMG_3858_zpsbs4dwumh.jpg (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/cobra427427/media/Cobra%20Build/IMG_3858_zpsbs4dwumh.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

What's the best way to fix the location?

Well, since you asked, the best way is with the body on the chassis. This eliminates all doubt. If it's possible, I recommend it, and have before. But for most it's either not possible or just too much additional effort. Another answer is to mount it in such a way that it's adjustable once the body is on. Also not practical in many cases. Another variable is that if you mount it the same distance along the hoop at both ends, you'll likely find it's not level. The hoop is neither symmetrical or the same profile as the dash in my experience. What I can do is share two pics from my most recent build of where the dash ended up. Note this was determined with the body in place, so up about as high as possible. It's likely it could be somewhat lower and still be hidden by the body. As you can see in the pics, my DS was similar to yours. The PS was basically flush with the hoop. In this position, the bottom of the dash was level with the chassis. This is a competition layout, so interference wasn't a problem for the speedo. I don't think you have any choice but to lower yours.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/th_IMG_2419_zps5e3d8ede.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2419_zps5e3d8ede.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/th_IMG_2418_zps6cc9b38c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2418_zps6cc9b38c.jpg.html)

[chopthebass]

Thanks Ed.
I don't mind dropping body on to check room, but I guess I would need to install firewall rubber so the body sits at the correct height. Also is it best to have vinyl on dash too, as I guess that has some thickness? I won't be padding, but may go two layers of vinyl instead.

[edwardb]

Thanks Ed.
I don't mind dropping body on to check room, but I guess I would need to install firewall rubber so the body sits at the correct height. Also is it best to have vinyl on dash too, as I guess that has some thickness? I won't be padding, but may go two layers of vinyl instead.

If you do set the body on, yes I would put the bulb seal piece on the firewall. Doesn't hurt anything to just leave it there IMO. If you go two layers of vinyl -- I did the same on my last build -- no reason to wrap the first layer around. Just cut it off along the top, and then wrap the second (final) layer. But I don't think the thickness of vinyl is an issue here. More like how low can the dash go to clear your street layout speedo location, and not expose the dash along the top? Hopefully others with experience using this dash layout can give some input.

[skullandbones]

Chopped,

The dash fitment was one of the most confusing things in my whole build. As mentioned, don't go by the 3/4 arch. Here's what I finally came up with to get by the issue. I installed three flat steel tabs on top of the 2x2 member under the dash. They projected out to the location of the bottom of the dash. I "mounted" the dash just like you have it for mock up. Where the bottom of the dash met the steel tabs is where I measured and cut the tabs. Then I mounted simple furniture hinges on the tabs and drilled and bolted the hinges to the 90 degree tab on the bottom of the dash. At that point, I didn't worry about it anymore until I put the body on. What this has allowed is some up and down adjustment. The steel flats are stiff but not absolutely rigid (1/8). I still haven't drilled holes to mount the dash as it is pretty stable the way it is. I also put in the tubes under the dash to the trans tunnel which helps support it better. The cool thing is that I can take the steering wheel off (quick release hub) and move the shaft in passed the dash and lower my dash without removing the body. It is pretty painless and priceless to have that easy access to the back of the dash.

So don't worry about the dash fitment to the chassis only the body. Also, center the steering wheel shaft. That's about the only critical measurement except the speedo. That's why I gave myself some up and down adjustment. I would only use one thickness of padded vinyl.

Most people won't see some of the neat things you have done to your project but you know they're there and when it comes time to work on it again, you really appreciate the advantage it gives you. I've always heard, "build it so it's easy for someone to use it or they won't use it". I'm trying to make everything easy to access and change so I won't dread it when the time comes.

Good luck,

WEK.

[DaleG]

X2 on pre-fitting the dash with the body on.

Looks like your dash is pretty thick; now is the time to see if you'll need to trim the lip of the body that fits over the dash to allow room for the dash to fit between the body lip and the hoop; don't wait until final body fit, like I did.

A recent post either here or on the other forum addressed attaching the dash in a manner that allows easy removal with the body on; you'll want to accommodate for this IMO.

[David Hodgkins]

When I was talking with Jeff Miller about dash placement his biggest concern was that I make sure NONE of the dash extends above the hoop. So while the outsides of the dash are at the top of the hoop, the center doesn't reach the top of the hoop. He also trimmed the body where it loops over so that I had room to maneuver the dash with the body on. I actually removed the dash after I got home from paint thanks to that little space he created.

HTH,

:)

[Jeff Kleiner]

As has been said, wait to fit the dash until the body is on. Not surprisingly Miller is exactly right---a few months ago I got one in for bodywork and paint that had the dash installed per the manual (i.e. above the corners of the hoop) which pushed the outer ends of the cowl upwards resulting in doors that fit even worse than usual.

Jeff

[chopthebass]

Awesome thanks guys. I bought ********** dash supports for the bottom of the dash, so I can do exactly what Skullandbones is suggesting, without hinges. I will probably use Rivnuts to fix to these, but won't drill top of dash holes until body is on. Think I have a plan now!

[Avalanche325]

I don't think you will get in danger of exposing the top of the dash on a MKIV. But, the mounting screw one over from center on the passenger side is partially exposed on mine. No one notices, but I know it is there. So, get that one up as high as possible or even leave it out.

One note about two layers of vinyl. I would look at what edwardb recommends. I did two layers for just that little bit of padding. Spray adhesive and contact cement work fine for sticking the vinyl to aluminum, but sticking the top layer to the bottom layer around the edges does not work well. I have a few spots that I keep re-gluing. I think I am going to get the exacto knife out and trim the inner layer out of the way and then I can glue the top layer to the metal. It is only an issue on the wrap around edges.

[chopthebass]

Good tip. Don't wrap both layers of vinyl. Must remember not to do that.

[chopthebass]

how much gap is there between top 3/4" tube and when the body is on? I mean, can you put a thicker aluminum dash on?

[DaleG]

how much gap is there between top 3/4" tube and when the body is on? I mean, can you put a thicker aluminum dash on?

Depends on how you set the body; if it ends-up a little forward, then you could have to trim the body lip a bit (I have Casey's dash, which is a bit thicker, plus pad, plus leather and had to trim it back). So now is a good time to install and fit body as it will be permanently, to see where everything sits; also good for determining where to position reservoirs, etc. that you want accessible with body on. A good gauge of where it should be is the position vs. the chassis door latch brackets, per the manual.