Breeze Hidden Trunk Hinge Install

[skullandbones]

I did a search on this forum and then one on FFcars.com. I found the thread that was 2012/2013 on "Breeze Hidden Hinge Bonding on 3.1".


http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/300790-breeze-hidden-hinge-bonding-3-1-a.html


It is pretty comprehensive and even has the latest 3 bolt mounting flange as well as the 4 bolt one as examples with pretty good pics. I had gotten some info from FFR about doing hidden hinges but they did not tell me that there was a bolt on kit from Breeze. Anyway I knew I had seen something about it on Chris's build thread when I searched for hidden hinges so I finally found the Breeze product. This is only the second product I have gotten from Mark but I'm really impressed with the quality of the components. The welding is very nice. So I thought I would post this so when someone does a search like I did over here, it will bring up the link for the FFcar.com thread. I'm hoping that the install will go as easy as it appears to have gone for the guys in the ffcar thread. There appears to be some issues with the adjustment depending on what thickness you have to deal with on your particular trunk lid. It looks like there is adequate adjustment if you need it. It might take a little trial and error effort to get there.

Disclaimer: no affiliation with Breeze Automotive just wanted to make it a little easier for the MKIII guys to find it. I am impressed with the instructions and online pics for help. The thread on FFcars.com really does go into detail on any issues you may have. Now all I need is a person small enough to get in the trunk and make the basic measurements for the mounting flanges. I thought about opening up the back cockpit wall for access but I'm not ready for that mod yet so I will have to rely on the other method.

This looks like it's going to be fun!

WEK.:cool::cool::cool:

[skullandbones]

I started installation of the hidden trunk hinges. This is a little difference since it is a retrofit. I see in some pics where the installer raised the body up with a wood block but I didn't do that as I think I would have to disconnect or loosen body. I could not raise it with ease. So I am marking the cross bar on the forward edge in the trunk. It is a little tight for a 6 ft 210 lb guy but still doable. I showed the markings in a pic. After I got that part done, the job will be pretty much the same. There must be more than one style of inner liner but the procedure is about the same with only small detail differences.

I transferred the bracket measurements from the bracket to the body and then to the trunk lid. I transferred the measurements on top to the bottom of the trunk lid. I'm using the front edge of the trunk lid to do the final measurement to place the brackets. It was 1 3/4 inchs to the edge of the trunk on the chassis closest to the roll bars. I'm placing the brackets 1 1/2 inches from the edge of the trunk lid. That will allow for the spacing of the lid and chassis. If all my measurements are accurate, I will have the brackets places so the hinges will be in the center of their adjustment slots and the other bracket on the cross piece will also be centered for it's slotted holes. This should give me maximum adjustability for the final fine tuning. When you cut the inner liner out with a cutting wheel, you will notice the difference in the angle of the outer trunk lid skin and the inner liner. Even though the finished product looks like it is supported on the inner liner, it is really not. So now I have to purchase some HSRF to get the bonding done.

Thanks,

WEK.:cool::cool:

[cChrisM]

I did something similar with a MK3 body and the Mk4 trunk. I used Speedgrip 15 to bond the bracket to the trunk lid as I have heard the HSRF does not bond as well. I also drilled holes in the bracket so increase bonding. http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/norton-speedgrip-structural-adhesive-minute-urethane-220ml-p-2234.html#.VduGbNxBTIU

I measured and cut the trunk lid to fit the bracket, however when bonding the bracket to the lid I attached the hinges and wrapped everything will plastic wrap and bonded the bracket with the hinges connected with the body in place. This got me the proper angle of the bracket to the hinge.

[skullandbones]

Chris,

I'm will be drilling some holes to help in the bonding. Mark suggested that as well as mentioned in the instructions. I thought I would find 3M HSRF but have had some trouble locally. I can get 6 oz at NAPA. Didn't want to take the extra time to chase it down so I went to my local paint vendor which the pros use. He had something made by Evercoat called "Kitty Hair" which is long strand Fiberglass Reinforced Body Filler or LSFRBF. Doubt if that acronym catches on! It should work similar to HSFR. Hoping to get this bonded in this evening.


WEK.

[Gumball]

You can also use traditional body adhesives. If I were doing it again, that's what I'd use for the initial bonding, then follow it up with the reinforced filler to give it a clean look.

[skullandbones]

Chris,

Do you have any specific body adhesives in mind? I was thinking the hidden rocker panel body brackets would be examples of where you wouldn't want too much build up.

Thanks,

WEK.

[skullandbones]

Left for vacation for a while but started back on the project today. I'm working indoors as it is still a little warm out there in AZ. I like having the work on a table with me seated. Makes everything a little easier.

I die grinded the surface area on the inside of the trunk skin. I also drilled 7 3/8 inch holes in each flange and cross hatched the mating surface on the bench grinder. The material I'm using looks so much like real fiberglass (the kind you lay up parts with) but it looks and works somewhat like body filler after it kicks. This stuff is a little unforgiving but it's supposed to hold very well. I did the first layer just to attach the flange and penetrate the holes like Breeze suggests (like rivets). You don't have much time to work it. I failed to get the first one applied and the trunk bracket bolted in place to flatten the material in time. So I ended up die grinding the rough finish flat. On the second flange, I did get the bracket attached and it flattened the material nicely allowing me to clean up that side with only a box cutter. After it was done it doesn't look that bad. I will be doing a lot of body work on the underside of the trunk so what I do on the hinge area will be only minimal to smooth it out. Right now, I have put the trunk back on the car. I will finish filling the holes that still need to be leveled out. The two body holes and one on the trunk. The others auto filled with the repair material. The trunk looks pretty good for fitment. I wanted to put it back together to do some driving as the days are supposed to get cooler very soon.

I like the way the trunk feels now with the new hinges. It seems much more substantial and the movement is correct so there will be no issue with the back edge catching on the body. I already have scuffed the paint there. So I will fill the remaining holes with regular filler and smooth those. I think I can touch up the areas to make it look OK until repaint time next month.

Overall, I would say that doing this retro fit for the MKIII is a easy project. Drilling the holes in the cross bar is the most tedious part. Working with the material for the bonding of the flanges is not that bad. I like that the hinges look as if they were original equipment. Where you do the bonding creates a nice finished look and with the requisite body work on the rest of the underside, it should look great. I have the trunk installed with the hinges in the center point of adjustments for the cross bar braces and also on the trunk like mounting brackets. So I should have plenty of room to get it nearly perfect. With the old surface hinges, that was not the case. I will have to clean up and powder coat the hinges and re-install. I'm glad this kit is available for the MKIIIs. Wish all the things I've done went this smoothly. See pics.

Note: One really good thing is that the bonding of the flanges creates a solid matrix between the trunk skin and inner liner the way I pushed the material under the liner on three sides. It makes the whole area solid. If you check normally there is a flex there. Also, the flanges are completely encapsulated so it would be very unlikely it will ever separate. I would hate to have to undo it!

Thanks,

WEK.:cool::cool::cool:

[skullandbones]

Hi,

I re-attached the trunk lid with my wife Trish's help. I found that the fit is pretty easy with the new hinges. There are some holes to repair and hopefully I can patch the paint enough to make it reasonably presentable until the second paint job. I could talk for an hour on the paint job attempt I did last April. It's been a mixed bag as far as what I expected. But interestingly enough, it's like everything else about the project, the reactions you get are not always what you expect.

I have a question for those who have done this modification. Can you actually change the shape of the trunk lid a little by using the adjustments on the hinges or will I have to change the shape by applying pressure to affect the glass work? I really don't want to add filler to change the contour. The amount of bend in the center of the trunk between the old hinge holes is not a great amount. Also, that slight bend would also make the outside edges work better.

Thanks,

WEK.

[cChrisM]

You could bond a threaded rod to the inside of the body in the middle or put two or three and adjust the body to match the trunk curvature. Rivet an L bracket to the curved hoop where the hinges are attached and adjust up or down as needed.