front lower castle nut

[chopthebass]

How do you torque the front lower castle nut? Once you are beyond finger tight the whole thing turns. The build manual just says torque to 80 - 110, no mention of this scenario!!

[Bob Cowan]

The ball joint and the hole are tapered. Squeezing them together will make the fit tighter. I've used a large C-clamp to pull the parts tighter. once you get a little torque on the nut, it will stop spinning.

[chopthebass]

Thanks Bob, I cant see where you clamp on the ball joint though.

[pcww]

It is counterintuitive but you have chamfer the nut. Jeff Kleiner has the details. Check history here. I had the same issue and finally listened to Jeff. It worked.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...you have chamfer the nut...

It's not the nut but rather the spacer between the spindle and nut. After assuring that the I.D. of the spacer clears the ball joint stud put a jack under the LCA and raise it so that the weight of the chassis is resting on it and it will help seat the stud into the spindle which will hold it stationary when you begin tightening the castle nut.

Jeff

[CraigS]

And get the nut as tight as you can get it w/ whatever wrench will fit. Usually you can't get a socket and torque wrench in there. I usually bang on the end of my wrench w/ a hammer. If you have ever tried to separate a ball joint you understand why it's not necessary to get the nut super tight.

[JIMOCO]

I found that the castle nut was turning down to the last threads on the spindle before the spindel seated. I cut and chamfered an additional spacer and was able to torque the castle nut. The problem I had is the grease boot was crushed to a point that I was not comfortable. I met with Mark Dougherty and he provided a cone shaped spacer (available online or at better auto parts distributors) to put over the spindle. After installing the spacer everything tightened properly and the boot was not crushed.

[chopthebass]

I know what chamfering is but not sure I know where you mean on the nut, and don't understand why that would help. I hate not knowing stuff!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I know what chamfering is but not sure I know where you mean on the nut, and don't understand why that would help. I hate not knowing stuff!

Read the responses after the one that says to chamfer the nut...

Jeff

[JIMOCO]

Take a look at the web page noted below. This may help solve the problem.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271918191965?lpid=82&chn=ps

[Jeff Kleiner]

Take a look at the web page noted below. This may help solve the problem.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271918191965?lpid=82&chn=ps

We're not talking about the taper in the spindle but rather the spacer that is between the spindle and nut. The down side of it's ID needs to be relieved so that it doesn't bite into the ball joint stud.

Jeff

[JIMOCO]

Jeff, I am interested in hearing your opining. When I chamferd the spacer the castle nut torqued down but the holes for the cotter pin were above the openings on the top of the nut. I added another spacer to correct this problem. I still has the issue with the grease boot being crushed. When I took it apart and added the cone shaped shim over the ball joint spindle it raised things up so that the castle nut and original spacer torqued properly, the holes were at the same level as the openings in the nut and the second spacer was unecessary. I had no priblems with achieving proper allignment after making this change.

[chopthebass]

Read the responses after the one that says to chamfer the nut...

Jeff

Thanks. Makes sense now. I jacked under the LCA and that enabled me to tighten a bit more, but when I used a big clamp I was able to tighten fully, and get the cotter pin in. Job done.

[rich grsc]

If you did not chamfer the spacer, then all you have done is torque the spacer onto the balljoint. The balljoint will not have the correct torque into the spindle. You should not need much force on the LCA to stop the balljoint from spinning, in fact wedging them in place by hand should be enough to thread the nut till it contacts the spacer, and the slightest torque on the nut should be all it takes to hold the balljoint from spinning.

[chopthebass]

If you did not chamfer the spacer, then all you have done is torque the spacer onto the balljoint. The balljoint will not have the correct torque into the spindle. You should not need much force on the LCA to stop the balljoint from spinning, in fact wedging them in place by hand should be enough to thread the nut till it contacts the spacer, and the slightest torque on the nut should be all it takes to hold the balljoint from spinning.

So the FFR spacers arent chamfered? I still don't understand what part needs to be chamfered. I really need a diagram to understand.

[rich grsc]

Ok, you know which part is the spacer, the hole in it needs to be made larger on one side, so the hole has a slight taper, / \ somewhat like the taper in the spindle.

[karlos]

I believe this is the spacer. Picture is kinda fuzzy (sorry about that), but you can see the chamfer around the top edge of the hole. When you install the spacer you need to orient the chamfer down (against the ball joint stud). The un-chamfered side goes against the castle nut.

I haven't got to the front suspension on my build yet, but the pictured spacer came right out of my kit. Looks like the spacers are now supplied already chamfered.



44484

[chopthebass]

Thanks everyone. Karlos, my spacers look like that although I can't remember which way I installed them! I bet I put them wrong way round. However I could tighten the nuts enough to get cotter pin in. If I want to check, I wonder if they are going to be wedged on so much I can't get them off.

[chopthebass]

Just checked and both chamfers were facing up! I flipped them over and it seemed to torque down better. I see why the chanfers are there as part of the ball joint protrudes up. All makes sense now!

Thanks for your patience.