Mark's MKIV 8666 Build Thread - Now for sale!

[6t8dart]

I am re-starting this thread in the proper place and a little more organized than the last.



Well, after 10 years of wanting and dreaming, I ordered a MKIV roadster donor kit. Luckily I got on the first day of the 20 day sale and got a smoking deal on the kit. FFR gave me a pick up date of July 4, Stewart delivered it July 21st. Don was great, the whole process took less than 45 minutes, and that included debating whether we should move his truck to block a few driveways, but we ultimately decided to do so because it cut down the distance by about 300 feet, we still had to push the car 1/2 a block through the alleyway. 100F Texas heat...we did a lot of sweating, I was planning to go back to work after that, but i was so soaked with sweat, there was no way.

Here is a list of all the options I ordered with my kit:

MKIV Base Kit
Powder coated frame
No Body cutouts
Driver and passenger black roll bars
J pipes and uncoated pipes (plan to get JetHot coating)
Uncut dash panel
Full wiring harness with all completion components
Big&Tall leather seats
Heater defroster
Hood hinge kit
FFR floor mats
Leather FFR steering wheel
Koni rear coilovers

My finishing plans for the car are to paint it either Met Blue or Red with White stripes. I'm leaning towards 18" FR500 wheels. I also plan to get custom Speedhut gauges. For now, that's the plan.

[68GT500MAN]

Looks like a great plan.
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

Smart move getting the wiring harness. The difference between what I did on my first build and the harness you get now is night and day. Don't forget to start a picture album and post tons of build pics!

Congrats!

:)

[skullandbones]

When I read your list I was reminded of mine. I have seen very few dual roll bar cars. I love to ask the guys, "so why doesn't your wife or girl friend have a roll bar". You get some interesting looks from the passengers.


What's your engine/trans/rear end set up going to be? What you have there sounds like you put a lot of thought into it.


BTW: Another similarity I had with your experience was when the Stewart truck pulled up as close to my house as he could at 10 PM. It was supposed to be much earlier but he had trouble finding the house. So we off loaded the body/chassis onto a dolly and pushed it over the dirt road and gravel drive to the side of the house about a half block but it was rough going all the way. We're in the desert. There was no moon and the only lights were from the back of his truck and the garage outside lights with a big black void between. We scanned for rattle snakes and pushed it along the way. Great memory now but not so great while we were doing it. Those Stewart guys are pretty good!

Have fun with your new toy.

WEK.

[6t8dart]

So I have decided, since I'm not one to usually give female names to my cars, and since my car is chassis number F5R1008666, the name is officially going to be...."THE BEAST!"
Its very fitting for a MKIV with the number ending in "666." It was born with the mark of the beast.

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[6t8dart]

I got my donor, it was a 95 GT with an AOD-E, and I think a 3.27:1 rear, I towed to the house it because it had a bad coolant leak. The owner just replaced the water pump, but the leak seems to be coming closer to the block, probably a cracked timing cover. (Edit: I later found it was a bad gasket) And before anyone states the obvious, yes, I wanted an AOD. I had back and leg issues, so I don't like shifting a manual anymore.

My victim...I didn't have the heart to tell this guy I was going to chop up his baby.

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I ripped all the recommended donor parts out of the Mustang except for the wiring, which is brand new from FFR. I probably got way more than I needed to pull, but its nice to have extras. I later decided not to use this engine and trans, I found a good deal on a rebuilt 302 with a beefed up AOD.

I ended up selling the Mustang body and recouping $400 of the $1700 purchase price, when I sell some of the other parts from it, it I hope to get most of it back.

[6t8dart]

This donor concept is getting more and more new parts.

So far, I have purchased the following:

Engine is a rebuilt 302, .030 over
Ported and polished 5.0 heads (I also have un-ported, rebuilt GT40 iron heads sitting on the shelf), E303 cam, HU pistons, High volume oil pump, 1.7 rockers, and ported 95 5.0 intake. I ended up changing to an Edelbrock Performer RPM with a Slayer 600 carb Edit 8/23/2016: Carb changed to a FITECH EFI unit

Drivetrain consists of a mildly built AOD trans, 1800 stall converter, B&M hammer shifter, new FR yoke, and 8.8 rear with 3.27 ratio. Hammer shifter changed to stock mustang shifter with a polished ball handle, will look like a stick shift

The rear and suspension arms, brakes, fuel tank, and steering rack are all thats left of the donor in my build. Most everything else is getting new parts. Rear suspension arms replaced with FFR steel upper, and FFR forged aluminum lowers

I have not yet decided what intake to use, not sure if I will go fuel injection, or keep it simple and stick with a performer RPM and a Carb from Forte's. see above

[6t8dart]

I got a call from Stewart a week ago, Tuesday they showed up on time as promised! Don did a great job of getting everything off the truck and explaining how it all worked, it was a well thought out method for getting it all off the truck. It took about 25 min to get all the boxes off, and checked off, and on to the cart.

Next we got the car off, onto the cart, and we pushed it halfway up the block to my garage, got it on to the jack stands in another 20 min. Efficient is the key word here, I was very impressed!

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[6t8dart]

Saturday I finally took the time to start the inventory process. I have heard horror stories about guys taking 3 days or more, thankfully it took me about 5 hours total. But I can see how it could take some people with less car building experience a lot more time, I pretty much breezed through everything...until I got to box 6A .... Aluminum panels. This was the one that took the longest, so panels were not marked, and I was forced to pull out the manual and start looking for pictures of different panels.

Over all, the inventory went pretty good, only a damaged center steering wheel cover, and few missing electrical ring terminals from all the boxes. When i was done I realized I was missing a few more items I ordered but didn't make it to the packing list, my rear Koni coil overs and 94-05 Rack kit never made it. I called Vinny and he promised to get them out right away.

Also there were a few minor parts on back-order, headlight buckets, door latches, and the steering wheel boss.

I am impressed that of the thousands of individual little parts, only a few screws and ring terminals were missing from the packing list.

[6t8dart]

Due to traveling, I have had very little time to work on my car, however, I got most of my back ordered parts now, still waiting on door latches and a new steering wheel trim ring.

Today I managed to get my chassis cart built and the car on it, my back is wrecked now, and I'm traveling again this week, maybe I can make some more progress next week.

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[6t8dart]

I used two 4x4 and two 2x6 along with a few pieces of 2x4 to make the dolly, pretty strong, bu I would make some small changes next time, but it would require another 4x4. I ended up using six 330 lb casters, I planed to use 4 550 lb casters, but the store only had three at the time. it rolls amazingly easy, and in my opinion, WAY safer than four jack stands. I almost lost the car off the stands last night while trying to lift it high enough for the cart to slide through.


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Im not sure if I need to move this back any farther...
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[2bking]

I kept mine on the chassis dolly even when the engine/transmission was installed but it got too hard to roll around as more weight was added. I mounted the wheels and put it on wheel dollies. The casters on the wheel dollies are small and make rolling it around a chore even on smooth concrete so that wasn't much improvement.

[6t8dart]

i worried about it getting harder to move, in reality, it's only getting moved when installing the engine and when fitting the body back on, so I'm not too worried anymore about being harder to move with weight. Once it's running, it will be sitting on its tires anyway.

[6t8dart]

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I got off work a little early today, so I decided to build a body buck. I have a buddy coming over Saturday, he doesn't know it yet, but he is being "volunteered" to lift the body off.

[R Thomas]

The BEAST it is. Enjoying your updates and looking forward to starting a build myself one of these days. In the meantime things that will be transferred from the donor are being put into good shape. The donor will be a track car until I can get to the build.

[6t8dart]

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I got off work a little early today, so I decided to build a body buck. I have a buddy coming over Saturday, he doesn't know it yet, but he is being "volunteered" to lift the body off.

I think I screwed this up, I ran the side supports at 63" apart, however, I forgot that the body pinches in at the bottom and is only about 54" wide. I have to do a little more measuring and see if the sides will clear, if not, I need to tear it apart and move them inboard each about 6 "

[6t8dart]

I think I screwed this up, I ran the side supports at 63" apart, however, I forgot that the body pinches in at the bottom and is only about 54" wide. I have to do a little more measuring and see if the sides will clear, if not, I need to tear it apart and move them inboard each about 6 "

Ok, we got the body on the buck yesterday, the fit was just horrible! But then, I wondered, what if we turn it 180 degrees? Wow, fit much better! Lol! It still could be better in the back, I may make a couple pieces to screw to the existing boards and adjust the fit a bit. I think F5 needs to redraw their patterns for the MKIVs.
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[sbak]

Looks like you're moving right along.. Thanks for the update!

[6t8dart]

2nd weekend actually working on the car, started the front suspension, quickly put together the FFR uppers and all four coilovers. Then I spent hours cleaning the spindles, brakes, lower control arms, and steering rack. Every piece was coated with a very impenetrateable layer of gray dust that rested 5 different chemicals...until I resorted to lacquer thinner...my old friend. I finally got it all painted. I think I am now going to order the breeze short tie rod ends. Next weeekend I am moving to the rear axle...time to stock up on lacquer thinner.
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[2bking]

Looks like you are starting to make progress. You didn't mention Pin drive in your options and I noticed you mounted the UCA on the top bolt holes. If you don't have Pin drive wheels, the UCA should mount in the outer holes.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...You didn't mention Pin drive in your options and I noticed you mounted the UCA on the top bolt holes. If you don't have Pin drive wheels, the UCA should mount in the outer holes.

This is only true if using the FFR two piece spindles. With donor spindles of any vintage the UCAs mount on the top horizontal surface.

Cheers,
Jeff

[6t8dart]

Yes, donor lower arms and spindles. It gets confusing sometimes with the multiple bolt holes and options. I double checked the manual.

[6t8dart]

Today was one of those expensive days, with one large box already on the way from Summit, I ordered another piggy bank buster from them today, next ordered a new Radiator from FFR, sending my side pipes to HTC Racing, and finally some items from Breeze. I really need parts from each to keep going, so I just decided to go ahead and place the order. I also gave upon fuel injection and ordered a Quickfuel Slayer 600, VAC, ELEC. This finalized my engine combo as follows:

Rebuilt 5.0 (bored to 306)
Ported 5.0 heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Quickfuel Slayer 600
BBK Shorty headers
Ford Racing E303 cam

This is a pretty simple combo, hoping for between 300-330 HP.

[6t8dart]

I got many parts from Summit, Breeze, and Jegs yesterday! I felt like a kid....I promised my wife I was only going to take the parts to the garage, but I ended up opening everything up and playing with all the parts. Pictures to follow later.

[sbak]

Hope Santa was good to you! Let's see some pics.

[David Hodgkins]

Wow, almost a day and a half without pics... Tsk, tsk, tsk.

Yah know, I can't recall the last time I handed down an infraction that wasn't spam related. Maybe I should remind my self how that little button works.

;)

[6t8dart]

I got the rear ended cleaned, painted, and bolted in today. I was almost done but I realized that FFR forgot to send me the hardware with spacers for the rear Koni's. I got them supporting the rear end with stock mustang hardware, but no spacers. I also test fitted my slotted rotor with a wheel to check clearances, tons of room. If you noticed the calipers are missing, I'm cleaning and painting them, hope to get the brakes together tomorrow.

I know I forgot pictures last time, sorry!

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[6t8dart]

Yesterday I had a few hours to work on the car, I finished up the front suspension. I had to modify the Mustang lower control arms to fit the coilovers, so I took my iPad into the garage to reference some pictures, and while using a cutting wheel, a spark hit my iPad 6 feet away...and would you believe the screen cracked!!! Argh! frustrated, I wrapped things up, went into the house and my wife told me she wasn't feeling well, so I took her to Urgent Care, they did an EKG...and sent us to the ER for more tests, we spent most of the night there getting more tests. Thankfully she did not have a heart attack, but most likely it was something work stress related. She is OK, we are a bit tired today, both taking the day off from work.

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[6t8dart]

Got another piece of engine eye candy in today, RPC Racing air cleaner, matches the Summit polished valve covers.

I am using an Explorer front drive setup, test fitting everything here.

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[KDubU]

Very nice! Like the filter and valve covers. Glad to hear your wife is okay.

[skullandbones]

Hi,

Are you using air pump and other smog stuff on your build? I thought I saw the pump in one of your pics. I haven't seen a build with all the OEM emission equipment on it except in a Mustang. Of course, there may be some state requirements you have that others don't.

Also, I like the wheels. Are those American Racing? I like the five spokes. I've got Cobra Rs. So what color scheme with the white wheels?

Glad to hear your emergency trip was nothing serious for your wife.

Thanks,

WEK.

[6t8dart]

No smog pump...ever!

Not sure, wheels came on Mustang donor, they will serve for the go kart stage. I plan on metallic red, but not decided yet.

She is doing fine....other than she hates her job and stresses every day over it.

[6t8dart]

i didn't get a whole lot done this weekend, got the rack together and mounted in the chassis, and started fitting the steering shaft and brake booster and pedal box. No issues with the pedal box, but the booster does not clear the frame (I know this), my biggest issue is accessing the master cylinder fill cap after the body is on. I am going to try and do a more exact test fit tonight.

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[Jeff Kleiner]

my biggest issue is accessing the master cylinder fill cap after the body is on.

I've built a few cars using the vacuum booster, You can easily reach under the body to remove the master cylinder cap and then to top it off I suggest that you purchase my custom fill device---only $19.95 (cash sales only, I only accept fiftys and hundreds, no change).


http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_1583.jpg

Jeff

[6t8dart]

Jeff, I'll send you a stack of hundreds for the idea.

I sometimes overthink things, your solution seems simple enough. My wife says when I see one problem, I create 10 more.

[6t8dart]

This was my take on power brakes, with information absorbed from the forum.

I had originally had planned to do power brakes from my donor 95 GT. as I started test fitting parts, I thought that the booster seemed very large. After I installed the steering shaft bearing, there was no way it was going to work, I briefly considered turning into a manual brake setup, but kept researching. I noticed that the earlier mustang booster was smaller. I went to Autozone and picked up a 93 booster.

Bearing in standard location
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Moved to the inside. I also decided to cut the brace to clear at this time, and I ordered the Whitby frame mod.
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Comparison of the nearly 2" diameter difference, not to mention the taper of the early booster helps.
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I used the spacers of the 95 foot box, but there was still interference from the bearing, so I moved it to the inside of the firewall...problem solved.

There is now a fair amount of clearance, enough that I can shorten the spacers.
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[6t8dart]

With the 3/4 mustang pedal box spacers, the pedal was too close to the firewall, I decided that I could shorten up the spacers quite a bit.

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I searched my garage for half an hour looking for the spacers I knew I had...no luck. I took a drive to Lowes, but they only had long spacers. Off to ACE, they always have all kinds of specialty hardware. I picked up some chrome 3/8 and 1/2 spacers. As soon as I walked back in the garage, I found the spacers I had from before...figures.

Next step, I built a cover plate to cover all the holes in the firewall.
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I used a 2 1/8 hole saw to cut the hole to seal against the register. To my surprise, first cut was dead on, no filing or trimming required.
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I first tried the 1/2 spacers, but the center register was hitting the firewall, so I needed to trim it. i first tried to screw a piece of wood to the back and use the 2 1/8 hole saw, but it was walking around too much. I finally just got out my die grinder with a metal cutting bit and shaved it to clear.

Now it fit great, so I tried the 3/8 spacers, still have good clearance, and the pedal is up where I want it.
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In retrospect I probably should have bought the 1/4 spacers too, they would have fit just fine.

[6t8dart]

I had ordered a new FFR radiator a few weeks ago to replace the leaking (and ugly) donor radiator. Today I opened up the box to check it out. I started thinking...I wonder if the shroud I ordered for my dart over two years ago from Summit would fit? Wow! It was a perfect fit! If anyone is interested, here is the p/n.

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[KDubU]

I hear you about the spacers. They have been the bane of my build. I seem to be short some again to finalize the 3 link so a trip to Ace will hopefully solve that.

[edwardb]

I had ordered a new FFR radiator a few weeks ago to replace the leaking (and ugly) donor radiator. Today I opened up the box to check it out. I started thinking...I wonder if the shroud I ordered for my dart over two years ago from Summit would fit? Wow! It was a perfect fit! If anyone is interested, here is the p/n.

That shroud is almost exactly like the Northern Radiator shroud Mark at Breeze Automotive sells, that many of us have used. Similar size and price. Just be careful to give enough clearance around the hose connections. One question though. Is that the a Roadster radiator from Factory Five? It's quite different than the two AFCO Performance ones I've seen before from FF, including my most recent complete kit delivery. Square/welded tank corners vs. rounded, and the lower hose connection at an angle vs. straight out. Also the drains are in a different location.

[6t8dart]

Yes, the radiator came from Factory Five recently.

[edwardb]

Yes, the radiator came from Factory Five recently.

Very interesting. The radiator I received with my kit just last month was the same as the one several years ago. And the dates on the boxes from Afco are July. So apparently a very recent change. The angled lower radiator connection points the hose away from the end of the 4 inch chassis tube and the tow hook, which some have struggled with a bit. But also means some of the available mandrel bent solutions, like from Breeze, would no longer work as is.

[6t8dart]

I took a second look at the picture on FFR's website, I guess they did change the lower outlet a bit. I like it better.

[6t8dart]

I took another day off from work to work on the MKIV today. I decided to tackle drilling all the foot box aluminum, F panels, and firewall.

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On the firewall, I decided that it was as flimsy as everyone says, I added the typical brace to the dash hoop.

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Unfortunately, I ended up scratching the engine side of the firewall, so now I need to figure out what to do. Paint, brushing, powder coating?

[sbak]

If its in the black paint.. paint over it.. then cover it with some tape (when it dries).. I think.. edwardb has some tape on parts of his chassis in his latest build thread.

[6t8dart]

No it's raw aluminum, I'm thinking of painting the black though, maybe brushed finish. Not decided.

[carlewms]

Depending on how deep a scratch ... it is fixable without resorting to paint.

In my case I am keeping the engine compartment side in a "raw" look but protected by Shark Hide. If I got a scratch before going through the preparation process, I would use a sanding block first to try to eliminate the scratch working my way up to wire wheel if needed.

I then used WD-30 as a lubricant and a scotch pad to give the aluminum a grain. After a through cleaning I then applied the Shark Hide.

Here is a panel after treatment ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4da33b3127ccef58d63c56f9200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140412073546389.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[6t8dart]

Well, life always has a way of getting in the way. I have not touched the car in six weeks, and with going back to school, it looks like progress will be slow. Hopefully I will have some time around thanksgiving to knock out a few things. Family always comes first.

[6t8dart]

OK, Im back to working on my car again. I started yesterday by picking up some parts from King (2bKing). I have a manual rack now. I also want to thank King for giving me a tour of his MMIV and giving me a ride in it, it definitely feels very solid and rattle free. Nice car! I loved the clam-shell hood, but that's too big a project for me.

I am now considering getting rid of all the front accessories from the explorer drive engine setup and just going with a alternator only.

After I came back, I started cleaning up three month of junk accumulation in the garage to make room again. I organized any parts I had unboxed and put them away again.

Now...on to the kit...I cleaned up my pass side aluminum footbox panels and coated them with sharkhide. I decided that I liked the sharkhide look, and wont be doing painted or brushed panels. The sharkhide gives them a nice glossy, clear look. I did wonder if spraying the panels will work too. :confused: I might do a little experimenting later.

I then worked on finding and test fitting the accessory drives and making sure I had all the correct bolts. I ended up only missing two bolts. I will have to find those at the hardware store.

I also cleaned up some my handbrake and shifter cables with acetone. I would like to test fit the engine and trans sometime soon and get all the lines run.

I have most of the rivet holes drilled on everything from the dash forward. (I love my air drill!) Next on the agenda is to sharkhide the driver's side footbox, but I want to do a foot-room mod first. Then I can finish final install on the pedalbox, gas pedal, and brake booster.

[6t8dart]

Update: Picked up more parts from 2bKing last Saturday. I picked up some sheet aluminum last week too.

Changes to the plan:

1. I am replacing the factory gas pedal with the F5 setup.

2. I am expanding the passenger footbox to its maximum extent, and expanding the driver's a little bit.

3. I am going to install a trunk drop kit

4. I am going to mock-up and see if moving the firewall forward about 4-5 inches will clear the engine and give me enough room to fit an A/C unit. I already have a compact Superfrost unit from Southern Air, its only 18"x8"x8", so i have a shot of it fitting.)
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[6t8dart]

Today I had a few hours to play with and started modding tithe passenger footbox. I moved the crease forward a few inches, the inner aluminum panel now hugs the square tube from the trans tunnel to the 4" tube. The footbox is now 2 1/2" wider than stock, and there seems to be a lot lot more left calf room now. You can see from the pictures how much farther in it is. I didn't see a need to move the front farther out. I was a little conservative on width, but I was able to maintain 1/2" clearance to the headers. I still need to patch the bottom panel and fabricate a new top panel still.

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[edwardb]

Today I had a few hours to play with and started modding tithe passenger footbox. I moved the crease forward a few inches, the inner aluminum panel now hugs the square tube from the trans tunnel to the 4" tube. The footbox is now 2 1/2" wider than stock, and there seems to be a lot lot more left calf room now. You can see from the pictures how much farther in it is. I didn't see a need to move the front farther out. I was a little conservative on width, but I was able to maintain 1/2" clearance to the headers. I still need to patch the bottom panel and fabricate a new top panel still.

Nice work. I did a similar mod on my last build. Plenty of room to add this space with a small block, and your passengers will appreciate it. Maybe you realize this already, but I didn't think of it until the end of my build. Your standard FF carpet pieces will no longer fit. I ordered a couple extra yards from FF and made the required new pieces. Also the standard floor mats now have a big gap. I put them in anyway, and it's no big deal.

[6t8dart]

I figured I would need more carpet, forgot about the floor mats though. I'll probably use them anyway.

[6t8dart]

I had another few hours today to bend up a new top panel. It took me a while to experiment with making the two inside cuts, my normal score and bend would not work, saw blades tend to wander, I don't have shear, so I played around with snips. Straight snips wold not more than a few inches deep, angled snips left a jagged edge, finally, I found that using my hand nibbler from the bottom left a very clean cut on top. It took a lot of concentration, but I got it done! Next the multiple bends in different directions left me scratching my head, but using both of my short and long brakes, a vice, bending pliers, and a section of 4x4, I finally got it done.

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[6t8dart]

I had half a day to work on the driver's footbox today. As I did on the pass side, I want to make as much room as the small block will allow. I decided that knee/calf room was most important. As usual, I spend the first hour looking for all the tools I need, then I stare at the parts until I figur out where to start.

I made a cardboard template of the inner footbox panel, then I cut it up to fit where I want it. I decided to make a straight line 4 inches behind the front wall, all the way to the top corner of the dash. I decided to keep the top half of the inner panel. I then cut the factory panel as straight as possible.

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I then bent up a lower piece from my original template, all the bends but one were made with my 30" brake, the top inner flange was made by clamping the piece down to the brake edge, then using a body hammer to bend it over.

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I actually ended up with about 3/4" gained at the pedal, about 2 1/4" at the knee, and still have 1/2" clearance to the header.

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[6t8dart]

Today was a boring work day, finished fitting and drilling all the drivers side footbox panels, installed the heater box through the firewall, and installed my Whitby booster fram mod. Next time I need to drill the pass side footbox and ship them all off to a powder coater ( as soon as I can find one )

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[2bking]

Looking good! Nice sheet metal work on the foot boxes and you will enjoy the extra leg room gained on the DS each time you enter/exit.

[6t8dart]

Tonight was an "oops" moment, I was disassembling the foot boxes, it occurred to me that I never did test fit the heater and firewall installed together, so I put it all together and found an oops, I cut the holes too far to the right side. When installed it sticks above the dash a good inch. Also the right vent out is half covered by the support tube. As I said oops!

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I figured I could either replace the firewall with a new one, I had my eye on the one made of .090 stock, or I also figured I can angle the box down and build a spacer for the inside. But the I thought about also relocating the blower to the inside of the cockpit, I mocked up a plenum to move it to the center of the dash.

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I'm not sure what to do here, perhaps I could build a plenum in between two firewalls and move the second wall forward a few inches. I need to think about a resolution to this goof a bit.

[Jeff Kleiner]

With the blower inside and in the center I suspect that it will interfere with your gauges unless you plan to go with an unconventional dash layout.

Jeff

[6t8dart]

I got a bunch of little jobs done today, most major project was installing the gas tank. Since I was using my donor tank, I had a bit of cleanup to do on the tank and liner, then I hit the tank with some flat black paint. I have read stories that installing the tank straps is difficult, but I had no problems. Except for finding the four black square tub ends, which I found packed with the hood and trunk bumpers, everything went in easy.

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I installed all the brake pads, calipers, brake hoses, and disassembled, painted, and reassembled the shock spacers ( since I forgot to do it before ). I did a little spring cleaning in the garage, cleaned up all the aluminum shavings, those *******s are everywhere.

[6t8dart]

This weekend was a short one, wife was on call and I was on toddler duty.

I final installed the front drivers footbox panel, along with the booster, master, brake lines down to the prop block, pedal box, throttle pedal, and throttle cable. I locktited everything that needed it and considered this part of the project done.

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I spent the better part of two hours trying to find a spot for the 95 ABS module, I wanted to get the top of it below the bleeder screws, i was able to find it fits between the rack and 4" tube down in front, but the mounting bracket it came with was just too wide. I then tried to mount it centered below and slightly in front of the PS rack, but was not happy with that either. I though about it some more, locations, and came up with either moving it a little higher in the original location, or building a custom mounting bracket to fit lower. I'm not 100% decided yet, but its next on the list.

I then tackled the fuel system. I mounted the fuel filter and bracket up high on the rear frame rail, having to rebend some of the mustang metal lines. Finally I bent up and mounted the fuel lines from the filter all the way up to the footbox area, which is where I ran into a snag, while bending the 5/16 line on the very last bend, i overbent the turn slightly and collapsed the tube. Argh! Its always the last bend you make too...

51526

51527

Update 3/26/16

I finished the fuel lines up front and bent up an mounted the rear brake line, now on to the ABS module...

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[6t8dart]

I spent a few hours looking at and trying different mounting options, and I finally came up with a combination of the factory bracket, and 1/8" plate steel, and a 3/16" l bracket for stiffening.

52063

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The setup clears the steering shaft, allows access to the rack bolt, and does not interfere with the lower A-arm.

52066

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[6t8dart]

Another update, I have been working on my car, but family health issues have slowed my progress, as well as lack of parts.

I have gone through the trans just to be sure, when I bought it I was told it was a fresh rebuilt performance trans. Unfortunately, the outside of it was dirty. I decided it need serious cleaning to go in my car. I cracked the trans open and inspected the insides, it was as promised, spotless inside. I put it back together, installed a new filter and front seal, and proceeded to scrape, and clean every inch of it, then painted it.

52780

I put the front cover and oil pan on the engine and I'm ready to drop the trans and engine in the car for good. Unfortunately, I was missing a few pieces, so I have been waiting for a parts order. Hopefully, soon...they will,find a new home!

[6t8dart]

Edit: Moved to another section of the forum.

[6t8dart]

Last weekend I was mocking up my front drive in the chassis to make sure everything clears, and it looks like the explorer front drive works well. I still have a few issues, first is that the steering shaft and the A/C compressor want to occupy the same space. I am not going to run A/C in my car, but if I were, then another joint and a slight relocation would work.

52781 52782

Another issue I ran into was that I was missing the thermactor plugs from the heads, so the bracket would not bolt up, I need to order those from Summit. I also found out I had the wrong balancer I previously ordered. It was not even close, i really goofed that one up. Another part I am returning to Summit. I ordered a new replacement, which I hope will work.

Hopefully, the next chunk of time I get to work on the car, I will be dropping in the engine and trans, and not pulling it back out! :p

[6t8dart]

Two weeks later and I have made some progress, just not a lot. I was recovering from a cortizone shot in my right hip, so i only worked about 4 hours last Saturday. I did get a lot of the missing stuff in. I now have a new Trans spacer plate, a new balancer, water pump, dip stick and tube, and a few new gaskets and thermactor plugs. I got the oil pan installed, timing cover and water pump installed.

I got the front drive bolted up, however I found out that I needed to add an idler pulley below the p/s pump, luckily I had a MOD motor pulley and spacer that King gave me, and that fit perfectly, except that I now need a 6 3/4" 7/16 bolt. Which again has turned into a wild goose chase. I went to a few hardware stores and finally to a Fastenal looking for them. Nope, nada. I finally had to have fastenal order me both a 6 1/2" and a 7" long grade 8 for me, I will have to see which one fits later. I was able to get all the pulleys perfectly lined up and I chopped down a long belt to get the correct length.

Another issue I ran into, I wanted to install the intake manifold on the engine, but the old hardware had seen better days, I had some new 5/16 bolts, but no washers. Went to the hardware store, guess what, forgot my wallet. Doh! I went to get some from Fastenal, but they dont have ehough of any black bolts or any matching washers. I think I am just going to bite the bullet and buy the more expensive ARP bolts. Which I already have for my valve covers and headers.

AT this point, I am ready to install the engine and trans in the chassis, but my help will not be able to assist until next weekend. Not a big loss, as I have other little things I can still do until then. I hope to work on it most of the day tomorrow. I just hope I don't keep running into missing bolts and parts again. Update to follow.

[Raceral]

Dart, great looking build, My radiator is like yours, my kit came last Oct.

[6t8dart]

I keep planning on working a 10 hour day on Saturdays, however, they usually end up half that, today I got 4.5 hrs in.

53451 53452

I started off by finishing a few details to get the engine ready for install. I installed the oil filter relocating adaptor, both the oil temp and pressure sensor, and installed the engine mounts. Ready to drop in.

Well I'm happy to reports that she is a roller...almost. I got all the rear suspension bolts tightened, installed the parking brake cables, wheel sensors, removed mustang donor upper rear arms a swapped them for FFR pieces....and pretty much finished all fuel, brake, and suspension behind the cockpit. I still have to figure out a way to secure the parking brake cables, but that can be after its on the ground

53453 53454

On the front I installed the ABS wheels sensors, which meant pulling the spindle to adaptor mounting nuts. I still have to torque all the front suspension mounting nuts, run front brake lines, and throw my wheels on it, to make the front suspension complete.

Next weekend...engine and trans going in.

[Avalanche325]

I've built a few cars using the vacuum booster, You can easily reach under the body to remove the master cylinder cap and then to top it off I suggest that you purchase my custom fill device---only $19.95 (cash sales only, I only accept fiftys and hundreds, no change).


http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_1583.jpg

Jeff

Jeff,
I know that is an old post, but you owe me a cup of tea and a monitor and keyboard cleanup.

[6t8dart]

I had planned on dropping in the engine and trans last weekend, but a bad case of bronchitis made other plans for me, however, it gave me time to gather a few parts like a set of ARP intake bolts and some extra long 7/16 bolts for the idler pulley. My buddy is coming over tomorrow at 10:00 am to help me drop in the engine and trans. However, there are a few things to do before hand.

1. remove body from garage to make room.
2. drop frame from dolly to the floor. First time on all four tires!
3. remove engine from stand
4. install rear oil seal
5. install spacer plate
6. install flexplate
7. install and fill torque converter
8. bolt trans to engine
9. bolt flexplate to converter
10. drop engine in frame!

Tonight I still have to clean up the garage a bit, throw away a huge pile of summit boxes and packing, and prep parts and tools for tomorrow.

[David Hodgkins]

Awesome! Don't forget the first start video!

:)

[6t8dart]

Awesome! Don't forget the first start video!

:)

It will have to wait for my fuel injection which is back ordered for a few more weeks

[carlewms]

Heck take photos or a video of the installation ... and post it! You can then sit in the car and make vroom, vroom noises.

[6t8dart]

53971

We got the car into both a roller, and got the engine installed today! In all it took about two hours to get the car on the ground, engine and trans together, and installed. And we spent another fours hours getting a chain for my hoist (inexplicably went missing), getting bolts from the Hardware store (I had the wrong size), and stopping for lunch at chicken express. In the end, we got done what we expected. I am happy.

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[6t8dart]

How to get an easy 1 1/8” legroom in a roadster.

After I saw a picture of one of the buckets without foam or upholstery on it once, my gears started turning. I noticed that the only thing that kept the seat from going back any farther in the cockpit was one interference point, the rear rectangular tube where the seatbelts mount. I had seen where someone else had notched the tube itself, but that involved, cutting, welding, and modifying the rear aluminum also. I used a Big and Tall bucket, but it should be the same frame for both.


There is a better way. Here is a picture of the seat without anything on it, simple construction, easy to modify.

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Here is the interference, easy to see without upholstery.
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You can see at the bottom where there is still room to go back. (Note: If the seat was on a seat track, you could gain a little more room because of the slope of the panels)
55239

Here is the easy fix to gain over an inch of clearance (more if on a seat track, but at the cost of sitting higher). With the seat up against the rear wall, mark the contact point on both the center and side bars with a sharpie.
55240

I placed the tubes against my vice and clearanced them flat on the center tube and about ½ thickness on the side tubes.
55241

Next you will need to push (with a hammer) the center tube forward a bit with the hammer, so that you can lay something flat across them.
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...continued next post

[6t8dart]

When you put the seat back in the car, admire you work.
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I marked the floor pan with a sharpie before I started and compared afterward.
55246


This whole process including taking the upholstery off took about an hour, and another 30 min to reinstall the upholstery, basically, 6 hog rings and a little spray glue. Zero cost.

[TXeverydayDad]

Interesting mod. Does it feel different while seated? Do you feel the changed angle in your back?

[6t8dart]

no, I really don't feel it, but because of my back problems, I generally like more mid and lower back support. I am still planning to thin out the foam a bit on the seat back and bottom. its a little dense for my liking.

[progmgr1]

This is a great idea - one I expect to add to my '33 Hot Rod build. I was going to pull the upholstery off to add heaters to my B/T bucket seats anyway, so it should be easy enough to incorporate this mod at the same time. Thanks for posting this!
Keith

[skullandbones]

Nice metal work. I think this will be one of those mods where you have to point it out to the observer. Otherwise, it would just be overlooked. Of course, you know you did it and now we know!

Thanks,

WEK.

[6t8dart]

I got a lot of little jobs done today, they all add up:

BRAKES
1. Mounted and permanently installed the ABS bracket and the brake module.
2. Finished bending and fitting all the brake lines.
3. Finished mounting all the hard and soft lines with brackets and clamps. I was careful to mount them in a way where they could be swiveled out of the way if the ABS module would need service.
I still need to finish wiring the ABS, which is really simple, four pairs of sensor wires, power, diagnostic, and brake switch. The brakes are now mechanically done, now just need to tighten all the nuts and bleed them.

55809

TRANSMISSION
1. I cut and mocked up the trans mount, tacked it all in place. Then I welded and gusseted the A-frame and painted it black.
2. Bolted in the A-frame and trans to the chassis. I now have clearance for the trans pan, shifter, and shifter mechanism in the tunnel.
3. I tried to fit the factory mustang trans lines to the car, but they interfere with the front crossmember. I will have to bend them to fit over the crossmember.
4. Worked out where my 24" Deraile trans cooler will go, just need a couple of L-brackets.

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WIRING
1. I started running and working out best routing for the RF harness. I tried to mount the fuse box, but the provided bracket needs trimming to clear the relays.


MISC
1. Mounted the remote oil filter.
2. Fixed my earlier goof cutting the heater holes in the wrong spot.
3. Permanently mounted engine accessory drive.
4. Plumbed P/S pump to rack, but I will need to swap the 90 deg fitting with a straight coming out of the rack, it hits on the frame.

55815

[6t8dart]

I have been working slowly the past few months, working on the car when I find time. I keep plugging away at the "to do" list, but I keep adding to it also. Since last update, I have mounted the radiator, mounted the trans cooler, and plumbed in the trans lines (along with a few other misc items I can't remember right now).

The radiator mounted.
57726

In this pic I mounted the shroud and cut a hole for the fan. I also started fabbing up the mount for the 24" Deraile trans cooler (a smaller one would have been easier, I could have mounted it inside the fan shroud). Unfortunately I misjudged and was 6" shourt on the -6 AN line I ordered to go from the trans to the cooler, so I went back to the drawing board and mounted it to the x brace above the P/S rack.
57727


I ended up make slotted adjustable mounts for it since I have very tight clearance to the fan hub, front suspension, and P/S lines. In the end, I got about 3/8" clearance to all of them. Another benefit is that the trans cooler is away from any road debris and gets additional cooling from the electric fan.
57728 57729

[6t8dart]

I'm still working on it when I can get a chance to sneak away.

I have started wiring the car and have routed and mounted the harness. I am not entirely happy with how the RF harness splits between the two tail lights, I think that the split needs to go upstream about a foot, but I made it work. I also gave up on my plans mounting the battery up front, because my ABS unit is on the drivers side, when I put the battery in the passenger side of the crossmember, it fit, but then I had no room to run the lower radiator hose. It was at that point i called uncle and moved the battery to the back where FFR tells you to put it. I am doing a Darkwater rear glovebox, so the battery is moving about 4" farther back. I have an ICT billet battery mount to hold it down.

In the dash area I tried several different placements for the fusebox, but ended up deciding that the FFR location works best. I still plan to put it on a hinge and thumbscrew for easy access if a fuse blows.

I finished the radiator, shroud, and fan assembly. I ended up riveting the shroud to the radiator flanges, and then used rivnuts for the fan mounting because i will not have access to the backside of the nuts. Used blue locktite to keep them from rattling out.

I did finalize the location of the auto shifter in the trans tunnel, but needed some countersink 5/16" bolts to mount through the square tubes. The shifter will end up with a 4" trim ring, leather boot, and a polished UPR shift ball so it will look like a manual trans car.

I also ordered Spintech 3000XL mufflers with oval tubes to go under the car. They should be arriving Thursday, maybe I will try to get them mounted next weekend so I can install the floors permanently. I plan on adding high temp heat shielding between the floor and exhaust pipes. I have not decided if i am running the exhaust out the back or the side of the car. I really want to install an H-pipe, but I'm having difficulty finding a good spot to run it.

Im still whittling away at things. I figure that every little "job" I finish gets me closer to startup.

[DadofThree]

I still plan to put it on a hinge and thumbscrew for easy access if a fuse blows. .

Dog-gone-it, I like this idea. one more mod to do.

Good to hear an update from ya.

[6t8dart]

I have only had on day since mid August to work on it, home project and Family come first.

[6t8dart]

Its been a while since I posted here, and since I have worked on the car. I decided that I needed to get back on the project and start knocking things out. I worked a little last year on the trans lines and exhaust, this weekend I worked on making a permanent mount for the shifter in the tunnel. Pics below:

After realizing I made a mistake on screwing the NPT into the trans, I removed the fitting and installed the correct straight thread with o-ring. Unfortunately, my fittings nolonger cleared the sheetmetal, so I had to use a 90 degree hard elbow on the top fluid line. It took a little re-thinking, but it fits fine now.

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I settled on Spintech flat mufflers since they sound good and actually fit under the seat pan of the frame, the oval tubes are 1 3/4" tall, so I am able to package the whole exhaust without hanging below the framerails. I welded the mounts to the outer tubes so they would allow me to bolt them in.

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I ended up using a flaring tool and a hammer to make the oval tube round again, but I may end up cutting and angling the end up a little to make it easier to attach to the headers.

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Finally, I built a 1/4" bracket to give the stock mustang shifter a solid mount in the trans tunnel. Everything in bolted together using nylock nuts. The sunken head bolts will sit flat when the sheetmetal goes on top. The shifter clears the trans by at least 1/2" at the lowest spot. I will be using the standard trim ring and a leather boot, the t-handle is being replaced by a polished billet knob, so it looks like a Manual trans car.

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[6t8dart]

Well, life always has a way of getting in the way of projects. Family events, work, and other projects conspired, my plan in Feb to get the ball rolling never really worked out. I believe my car is between 50-100 work hours from being drivable. So after talking with my wife, we decided to enlist the help of Mark Dougherty (The Travelling Builder). He will be out the last week in August and hopefully we can get this damn thing on the streets.

[GoDadGo]

Don't Let Things Get You Down Because Stuff Happens!

I was ready to start my car in February when my daily driver decided give me some issues.

https://youtu.be/svZX2BMSDEs

Once I got that car running I had an accident that messed up my left hand and guess what; I'm left handed.

https://youtu.be/BcsVu80VG5k

That side lined me pretty good until we finally got the project going again in June.

We All Have Life Issues That Get In The Way So Hang In There!

[6t8dart]

LOL, you sound like you have been through it too.

Part of what happened this past February, I got rear ended pretty hard (brand new car, a month old) and hurt my left hand. Most of my joints hurt from living with RA for most of my life, my back was destroyed in 2001 and had surgery to fix it, and my shoulders are torn up from years of self abuse mountain biking in my 20's. So now every day I work on the car requires 2-3 days recovery. But I have built a Muscle car from start to finish that took me 8 years, so this project will finished. Hopefully getting Mark D out here will give me the kick to the behind I need. He will be here in one month, so I am starting to clean and organize the garage, and I want to finish and fabricating on the MKIV so we can just get this car together and running.

Things I plan to do before Mark D gets here:
1. Finish fabricating and welding the exhaust (Spintech with oval pipes)
2. Finish buttoning up the engine (Motor mounts, intake manifold, and shorty headers)
3. Finish installing heater assembly (need to mount the heater box)
4. Get a good start on hooking up the wiring harness.
5. Finish covering and installing gauges in the dash.

[GoDadGo]

Though I have not met Mark, the feed back folks have posted about him has all been great.
With that said, I suggest you make Cruising The Coast your completion goal.
if you've never been, you don't know what you have been missing.

https://cruisinthecoast.com/

PS: Once Mark gets there I think you and he will Rocking & Rolling along so don't fret.

[6t8dart]

I took a day off from work Monday and got a little work done on the engine, I finally filled it with fluids, installed the intake, FITECH, installed a bunch of plugs and fittings, t-stat housing, and took some brackets to the powder-coaters. It felt good to work on the car without any stress or spending time just looking for stuff. I have to sort out why my shift cable no longer moves, unfortunately, I gave away my spare cable and now need to find a replacement Mustang cable.

I dug out my upholstery box and found the dash pad, all rolled up and full of wrinkles. Days in the Texas sun has not, and probably will not remove them. I managed to get a roll of marine vinyl, but am having trouble finding very thin 1/8" or 3/16" padding.

I am trying to get as much done before Mark D comes out on a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, my old compressor's tank rusted through and I am now also trying to scramble to buy a cheap temporary compressor before he gets here. I will try to find just an air tank, but I have little hope of finding a new replacement for one that is 10 years old.

[GoDadGo]

I dug out my upholstery box and found the dash pad, all rolled up and full of wrinkles. Days in the Texas sun has not, and probably will not remove them. I managed to get a roll of marine vinyl, but am having trouble finding very thin 1/8" or 3/16" padding.


I've got a dash pad if you needed.
It is in perfect shape and has been laying flat since 2015.
Just P/M me your address and I'll send it.

[6t8dart]

I've got a dash pad if you needed.
It is in perfect shape and has been laying flat since 2015.
Just P/M me your address and I'll send it.

Thank you, but not necessary, I already have some material, and this allows me to use a thinner pad than factory for an easier covering.

[6t8dart]

I dropped off 12 brackets at a local custom shop yesterday, they called me this morning and told me they were done! Holy cow! $50 for 24 hour service, they won my future business.

http://www.grapevineauto.com/

[Straversi]

I dug out my upholstery box and found the dash pad, all rolled up and full of wrinkles. Days in the Texas sun has not, and probably will not remove them. I managed to get a roll of marine vinyl, but am having trouble finding very thin 1/8" or 3/16" padding.


You can find the 1/8" Volara Sculpting foam at YourAutoTrim.com
You can also get the DAP Weldwood HHR contact Cement there. These were suggested on EdwardB's thread.

-Steve http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72358&d=1502819795

[Straversi]

Ooops!
Sorry about the photo. Didn't intend to paste that in my reply about foam.
-Steve

[6t8dart]

Ooops!
Sorry about the photo. Didn't intend to paste that in my reply about foam.
-Steve

You had me going for a minute...I was searching the picture for the foam...

[Straversi]

You had me going for a minute...I was searching the picture for the foam...

Ha, probably the most boring photo "accidentally" posted on the internet today.

[6t8dart]

Although I like how you are controlling the fresh air valve to the footbox.

[6t8dart]

Day 1, Mark had me take apart and fix a few minor items, we also finished a bunch of small things, got the radiator and cooling going, and started wiring.

Here is Mark finishing the passenger under car exhaust I started, it came out great!

http://i.imgur.com/EM9sg2O.jpg

[jceckard]

Here is Mark finishing the passenger under car exhaust I started, it came out great!

Let's see more of that please.

[GoDadGo]

Life Just Got Better!
Glad Mr. Dougherty Is On The Team!

[Ducky2009]

I took a day off from work Monday and got a little work done on the engine, I finally filled it with fluids, installed the intake, FITECH, installed a bunch of plugs and fittings, t-stat housing, and took some brackets to the powder-coaters. It felt good to work on the car without any stress or spending time just looking for stuff. I have to sort out why my shift cable no longer moves, unfortunately, I gave away my spare cable and now need to find a replacement Mustang cable.

I dug out my upholstery box and found the dash pad, all rolled up and full of wrinkles. Days in the Texas sun has not, and probably will not remove them. I managed to get a roll of marine vinyl, but am having trouble finding very thin 1/8" or 3/16" padding.

I am trying to get as much done before Mark D comes out on a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, my old compressor's tank rusted through and I am now also trying to scramble to buy a cheap temporary compressor before he gets here. I will try to find just an air tank, but I have little hope of finding a new replacement for one that is 10 years old.

Volara Sculpting foam works well, 1/8" Thk. When it came, it said Headliner Foam on the box. I purchased 1/2 a cow hide at Tandy Leather, "Studio Leather" was 2 1/2 OZ weight for $99 with military discount (was $119 without).

73078

[6t8dart]

Day two under our belts, we ONLY managed to put in about 10 hours today. Ended up chasing some parts, backtracking a bit, luckily Mark caught that my engine was missing a oil pump drive shaft, that would have been a big issue with no oil pressure. He was able to track down one at a local Napa. Hopefully tomorrow will be the day we fire it up. Well...that is if we can find some gas.

[WIS89]

I'm glad Mark was able to get down there with all the flight cancellations and delays, etc.!

I hope you are able to get a ton done while he is there. I look forward to seeing the first start. I tell you what, Mark catching the oil pump drive shaft problem was worth the cost of his visit!

Best of luck the rest of the weekend; I look forward to seeing your progress!

Regards,

Steve

[6t8dart]

Three days went by fast, but Mark D works like a beast! He also cracked the whip on Mark K, together we beat up on Mark IV.

We put together and finished off the cooling system, fuel system, electrical system, brake system, exhaust system, corrected some suspension issues, ran wires, installed some aluminum, installed the driveshaft...we almost had to put starting it on hold since we were hit with a gas shortage. Thursday everything seemed to fight us. I ended up spending a mint on a bunch of money on many miscellaneous items, and well as an expensive new Optima battery because we figured out my battery tender got fried by lighting and took my new battery with it. Mark also thought to check down the distributor hole and noticed the oil pump drive shaft was missing?!?! So I had a list of things to pick up Friday before we could fire it up...and we had no gas, all the local stations were out. Friday, things started falling into place, I picked up the missing parts, managed to get a couple gallons of gas after waiting in line for 1/2 hour. Things started coming together, and at 5 pm, we turned the key...and the FITECH did its job and we had a running car! OK, dinner time! After dinner we finished bleeding the brake system. Mission accomplished! Through all this, I forgot to take any pictures or video! Oops, sorry everyone. This morning I picked Mark up and we made a punch list for me to go by before I took him to the airport!

Thanks Mark, you earned ever penny, in 72 hours you put in 100 hours worth of accomplishment. Thank you.

[GoDadGo]

Life Is Looking Up Over There For Sure!

They Don't Call Him The Traveling Builder For Nothing!

[MPTech]

http://www.grapevineauto.com/

Is this the shop that was just on Garage Rescue w/Richard Rawlins a couple weeks ago?

[6t8dart]

Is this the shop that was just on Garage Rescue w/Richard Rawlins a couple weeks ago?

Yes, that show was funny, I call it good entertainment. Not much has changed at Grapevine. And no, they are not the bumbling idiots the show made them out to be. I guess it was a good way to get a cosmetic makeover at the shop.

[6t8dart]

Unfortunately, events in my life, joint health issues, and coming move across the country are forcing me to put up for sale my MKIV Roadster. Last August, Mark D (traveling builder) helped me get all the systems working, engine running, and electrical hooked up, we only needed another 2 days to get to go kart and body on. I had intended to build her as a “street” Roadster with no hood scoop, under car exhaust and 15” sunburst style wheels

But since then, I have only been able to put in a day’s worth of work due to joint issues and knee surgery. So being realistic, I don’t think I can complete it by myself, and I don’t have any friends locally that are able to help me finish it. I really wanted to keep her, but I am having too much difficulty with my back, hip, and knee to do it by myself. I tried hard to work on her, but I couldn’t with knee that needed surgery. So after some internal debate, it’s time for her to go to a good home, as I don’t have a way to finish her.

It’s a sad day as I had wanted to build this car since 1998, I guess life goes on, if I can’t finish her, somebody else should be able to very quickly. I truly beleive that if I had a couple people to help me, I could have had her done and body on in a week or two. :(