So many hoses!! Please help me reduce them.

[bbjones121]

I was trying to figure out how in the world I was going to route 8 hoses along with the 2 radiator hoses along the side of the car. Can you all help me reduce them?
So far I have:
- 2 lines for coolant expansion, one from radiator cap, one from radiator (It sounds like I could possibly eliminate these with Waynes mod?)
- 2 lines for HVAC heating core (I was hoping I could tap into the radiator inlet and discharge for this, since the vintage air system has a control valve, but nobody can confirm if this would be possible)
- 2 lines for HVAC AC lines (no way around this one) I will probably run hard lines on side of car and fittings to hoses
- 2 lines for AWIC (I am thinking about runing these down the middle of the car so I could have a sightglass to see flow and possibly an ice box)

Oh yeah, and two shifter cables. I know I could eliminate these with Waynes shifter, but going to try the FFR aluminum one first.

[metros]

Well the shifter cables are separate in my mind as they go cockpit to rear. Otherwise I think you're stuck spreading them between each side of the car and the center tunnel. Not much way around that.

[bbjones121]

Well the shifter cables are separate in my mind as they go cockpit to rear. Otherwise I think you're stuck spreading them between each side of the car and the center tunnel. Not much way around that.

Yeah, but not the FFR ones. They go out the front and around the side?

[TouchStone]

dont forget your brake lines

[bbjones121]

dont forget your brake lines

Yup, already have those and clutch line. They are very small compared to other lines

[TouchStone]

- 2 lines for HVAC heating core (I was hoping I could tap into the radiator inlet and discharge for this, since the vintage air system has a control valve, but nobody can confirm if this would be possible)


You'll probably have problems if you go with this setup. Mainly you wont have a fresh source of hot coolant when the thermostat is closed and the hot air will cool off as the same coolant gets cycled through the heater core without passing through the engine. You need to be able to bypass the thermostat to maintain hot air out of the HVAC.

[CNC_Geek]

I have also been thinking about sourcing the hot water from the front of the car. Trouble is, this becomes a big experiment. Try it and see what happens. Try something different and see if that works better. The two problems are 1. A reliable flow of hot water is not always available as the thermostat controls the flow of coolant needed by the engine. 2. Someone has mentioned that the cabin heat water lines need to flow all the time. This is why FFR provides a U shaped hose and not 2 block off caps. I took a look at my donor pile of parts and sure enough It appears that there is no control valve involved. Just a vent control that blocks off the heater core or flows through it as needed. So any conventional (simple) control wont work. Anyone else know of a flow control that fits our application? Can someone state for certain that the cabin heat hose path must remain free flowing?

[CNC_Geek]

Ok Apparently Subaru is not the only manufacture to require full time coolant flow through the cabin heat ports. I found how others have used the heater control valve from a Ford, Mazda, and a few others. It has 4 ports and a simple deflector valve. Available in cable, servo or vacuum operation. Here is a link to a related FFR page http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/274253-electronic-4-port-heater-valve-mod-instructions.html